Thank you for putting this video out, brother. I’m 63 and I’ve been collecting knives most of my life. I did notice that the two knives in the center both appear to be Scandi- grinds to me, one with a higher bevel than the other. A saber ground knife has the primary bevel starts maybe midway down from the spine but then there’s a secondary bevel that has a larger angle. So a saber grind is actually a lot more durable than a Scandi or a flat ground because it has the secondary bevel. The flat found knife should have a secondary bevel unless it is for cutting soft foods. You didn’t show that in your drawing. The secondary bevel and the mass above the primary bevel are what gives the saber it’s great strength. And you actually have to raise angle of attack in order to get it to feather wood. This is just my opinion. But I think I am correct on this one. God bless you. John
There are tons of blades out there touting as scandis but many have a secondary micro bevel for durability. What then, would you call what's essentially a flat grind but with a larger angle than a flat as the grind doesn't reach the spine of the knife? Is that not a Saber?
Come here, after watching you on Townsend! So impressed by your skills.👍🖐 Thank you for sharing your knowledge, and wilderness life skills. Moira From England.
When I'm out in the woods, I have learned to bring two blades: a flat grind (2-3in neck-knife or a SAK) and a very small hatchet (3in convex cutting-edge). Thanks for explaining why that works so well. PS: In winter I also bring a 21" folding saw, for firewood.
@@bbtb785 I hear you regarding the weight. As I am fast going towards sixty every gram counts! But I prefer the splitting power of the hatchet over the tomahawk. Personal preference!
I fall in between a hiker and a bushcrafter, and I carry a small folding saw and a scandi grind knife. Works great for me. Still super lightweight for those 15 mile hikes, but can do Bush crafty things on my base camp trips.
Another excellent video with very well said context. Personality, because of the reasons you explained in this video I try to put a scandivex edge on my bushcraft knives.
I love that you are knowledgeable, and that you share that knowledge about things that others want to know but that veteran bushcrafters don't realize others need mentorship with. You're awesome, Dan!
Thanks for this posting. I picked up a sabre grind knife a couple days ago. Still getting to know it. So far it's performing well. 5mm spine 5" blade, 5" g10 handle. HC steel. D2 steel. Sabre grind. 5" handle. No hot spots. So far I like it. Tour the 1st person that explained the different grinds etc like you did. It was presented perfectly. Thanks.
THANK YOU! I've heard of ALL of the different types of grinds on a blade...minus what each one is best for! I'm beyond thankful for this video, and it really makes perfect sense. Thanks so much for this video! Stay safe out there!
full flat is best for full through slicing and food prep. Saber grind will perform pretty much the same as a full flat on most tasks except will have more mass and a broader blade overall making it worse for through slicing, but maybe better for chopping/splitting. Scandi is best for bushcrafting not because it's tougher, but because there is no secondary bevel... meaning you can consistently make very fine feather sticks and easily carve precisely. It gives you very easy control of the edge and depth of cut in wood. Honestly, the Scandi grind is basically the best grind for everything (feather sticks, chopping, carving, etc) except maybe thin slicing foods.
Great Dan, don't knock your art , you expressed your " point" very well. Art is all about expression. Also you brought together my interest in bushcrafting and knives so really enjoyed your talk. SITW
My grind is usually slightly coarser than filter... (Bad coffee joke) Great video, bad drawings, thank you for your expertise. I've got a 25 year old SOG Seal and I never dared sharpen it... At least now I know what type of grind it is. Keep up the good work.
This video was very informative for me! As an owner of quite a few Moras, this gives me a great guide as to what they can and can’t do!!! Thanks for this video!!!
So helpful...thanks, Dan. I'm rather new to bushcraft and scandi grind seems to be the most popular that most people talk about. The sabre grind has rarely been mentioned. Your vid will help a lot with my choice of knife to purchase.
A bushcrafter once explained these just like you did, but he made one distinction that you didn't. He said those are all double sided grinds. Each of those double sided grinds can be done single sided, leaving the other side flat. That versatility is an easy thing to add to an 8 min video to double the content with 20 sec of drawing. Great explanation of basic grinds and their purposes.
I sharpen my knives by hand and end up with some kind of weird asymmetrical hollowed out half flat saber scandivex kinda thing. But this grind coupled with the right blade and handle geometry is absolutely Brilliant!
I tend to use convex and chisel grinds. You can shave with a convex grind, but it takes practice to get a feel for the necessary cutting action. Chisel grinds dig hard, but give you the ability to lay the knife dead flat and shave the surface flat in ways that aren't always easy with a wedge grind.
I know it's not in the scope of this video but I think it's also worth bearing in mind the knife material and the effects it has on the behaviour of an edge.
At last, someone promotes the sabre grind. All I see on bushcraft videos is the scandi. I too use the sabre, it gives me greater flexibility if I have the one, full-tang knife with me.
I like how he described this I personally like my axes and machetes to be convex I really love my Helko Werk Rheinland pattern axe because it came with a convex and has been extremely durable not chips no nothing and with the Rheinland design it cuts very deep but because of that convex it’s also durable I really love it and on knife for carving tasks most the time I’m usually working a softer or green wood not really working hardwoods very often and for that I really like the saber grinds that are on condor knives I also like the scandi on my knivsmed stromeng but it doesn’t carve quite as smoothly as some of the saber grind knives I have
I recently bought a Buck 692 with a 5ish inch blade and a (I believe) convex grind My purpose is for hunting and some bushcrafting. I also have a larger Buck 650, more of a general purpose. Have yet to use either in the craft. But now I'm considering another grind. Never have enough knives. I Never go into the woods with less than 2 knives.
I don’t know what type of edge it is but it’s very sharp and strong at the same time. I had an Eskimo girlfriend who showed me an ulu that her great grandad made. It had a walrus tusk for the handle but the blade was only sharpened on one side. She said that it made the blade stronger and sharper and that it was easier to sharpen and it made the blade last longer because you’re only sharpening one side of the blade. I’ve been using this on a few knives and it works great.
I have some knives that almost has a concave grind, some sharp, most sabre grinds, a couple of sabre->sharp progressive grinds and two convex grinds. Funnily, the two convex grinds are sharpened bayonets.
Nice video Looks like I was setting up my edged tools correctly. I have my maul and axe for heavy chopping (they ride in the truck/jeep until needed), a 'hawk for light chopping and "heavy blade" needs. And my multi-tools with flat grinds for fine edge work. Still looking for a medium to large blade, and a medium to small blade for tasks in those areas. I like having some overlap with blades, a carryover from buckskinning days. More of a "modern traditionalist" now. I don't need authentic gear, but tried and true gear is always an option.
That’s interesting. I knew edge geometry determines how well a blade like you say shaved or chops and that’s why nobody should limit themselves to just 1 axe or 1 knife. I say that but I only carry a knife during deer season
I bought my first bushcraft knife that is quite thick .25" spine w convex/sabre grind advertised. Cool! So how do I sharpen it?? Both at home vs field w no electricity....🤔🤔🤔 I keep researching yet no tangible method w/o electricity! Buffer wheels, "slack belts" I tried a whetstone n just scratched up the convex part!😮. Thank You! Your video only one that shared the balance between durability vs sharpness Thank You
I didn't see the RAZOR edge, I love a good razor blade for many lighter duty tasks! There are several really nice replaceable blade razor knives on the market now, some kinda flimsy but all are very useful.
I think this is why Nessmuk had the Nessmuk trio (Fixed blade, folding knife, and double-bit hatchet) That way you can have multiple grinds and in the case of the hatchet a side for chopping and a side for splitting. Personally, I am not big on folding knives or knives with blades longer than 2 1/2" - 3" for skinning anyway. I learned to skin with a small bladed knife when I was young. I am still better at using a small blade than a large one, my friends often wondered how I was so quick with a small blade. I am planning on getting a woodsman's pal and carrying a modified old hickory boning knife cut down to the size of a patch/paring knife and changing the handle material how it's fastened and shaped with a flat grind and a modified old hickory hunting knife once again handle changes with a saber grind. That should take care of every type of cutting, shaving, whittling, or whatever I could possibly need to do.
I'm partial to using saber grinds on my outdoors tools due to their ease of maintinance and all around utility. I even use them on most of my kitchen gear, and let me tell you they excel overly well in that application.
I appreciate the effort you put into this video but I think it should be noted that "slicey" and "sharp" are different things entirely. It's important to know that 99% of flat grind knives have a secondary bevel similar to a saber grind. As a result, a flat grind is more "slicey" than a scandi grind due to the overall thinness of the the entire blade, which you notice especially when trying to slice meat/food, but the scandi grind can actually get much sharper at the very edge than the flat grind due to the lack of a significant secondary bevel. This is the reason it carves wood so well- there's no resistance at the edge from a secondary bevel (or very little due to a microbevel).
I had a Schrade SCHF51 hollow grind that was too deep and off center making it weak in the middle of the primary grind and horrible for feather sticking right handed. I then bought a thick flat grind Ontario tak1. Great feather sticking and thick enough to baton carefully. Otherwise I'd pick a saber grind like a ESEE 5. They do sound like a good all arounder.
Depends on the thickness of the stock. A thin stock with a scandi can be MUCH sharper than even a full flat grind if it's a very thick stock. Your diagram of course assumes stock thickness all being equal. But the reality is different. There are many other factors, like broadness of blade for instance. Using the same thickness stock but one blade is broad and one is narrow, you'll get totally different angles. Then there are secondary bevels to consider, etc. The real answer is to have several knives with you at all times, :D.
TBE is a big factor of durability as well... From steels like 8670, 5160, 1075 too steels like S110V, ZDP-189, Maxamet and Rex-121. TBE = thickness behind the edge Thicker is stronger, but thinner cuts better
The 3 grinds that are totally different are convex, hollow and flat. Saber and scandi are simply an offshoot of flat as the difference is well after the edge.
Secondary bevels are yeah don’t like them haha but what he means by saber is kinda like a condor knife where it’s still a scandi but pulled back more flat it really depends what brands your looking at if your looking at actually bushcraft types knife brands you won’t run into secondary bevels I mean really at all just depends where your looking if your looking at more modern tactical type knives like yeah almost all will be secondary bevels
Not true about a saber grind when you said not good at battoning a saber is like a wedge if done right and is my favorite grind for processing wood . Its also great for quartering game . Also you touched on durability saber has the most meat when again done right
I use a work sharp with the grinder attachment. Everything I own gets a convex edge at some point just because belts curve. It's not bad with the worksharp though, not a huge convex curve to it. Still gets shaving sharp and holds it just a bit longer! Awesome video, very informative! I still use stones when I'm just trying to zone out and relax.
Already in the thumbnail incorrectly. You get any of the these grinds equally sharp. The difference is in the cutting performance as some of these grinds have more wedging/splitting capabilities instead of cutting ones. It depends on what you want to do with your knife which grind you should consider.
The thickness of the shavings is more about the skill of the user, but the saber can make thinner shavings for a different reason than he stated. The saber and scandi grind he has on here actually need to trade places as the saber grind looks like the scandi but has a secondary bevel making it more relatable to the convex edge. The saber grind will have an easier time making thin shavings because it has a wider angle edge than the scandi. Due to it's flat geometry, the scandi will bite off more wood while carving than the saber. Hence the popular term the scandi blade overbite
At first look I thought that was a UFO parked behind you… Then I realized it was a hard structured roof. You never know… Aliens may need to learn Bushcraft too.
I'd like to hear your opinion on the Condor Selknam knife. That convex edge brought me here because I'm having difficultly with feather sticks and the new knife
I think a scandi grind on a 2 mm - 2.5 mm thick knife would be ok for diffrent tasks. Also a very fine convex blade on a 3mm blade or a saber with a slight convex secondery on a 2.5 mm - 3 mm blade.
Would be nice to see the techniques with a whet stone for getting those grinds. I (no expert at all) think I’ve been doing the third one as I usually raise my knife edge slightly when using a whet stone. Guessing the drawings are exaggerated to make the point (no pun intended)
An flat grind being edge heavy convex. Like a full flat except having a microbevel that is convex. Is it a good compromize? Any thoughts? I think I would describe the Fallkniven f1 as a convex although it almost look like a flat, but carves great. It seems to be very durable. Thoughts?
![[SFM] Risky Recital](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RzNkY1_Nk3o/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for putting this video out, brother. I’m 63 and I’ve been collecting knives most of my life. I did notice that the two knives in the center both appear to be Scandi- grinds to me, one with a higher bevel than the other. A saber ground knife has the primary bevel starts maybe midway down from the spine but then there’s a secondary bevel that has a larger angle. So a saber grind is actually a lot more durable than a Scandi or a flat ground because it has the secondary bevel. The flat found knife should have a secondary bevel unless it is for cutting soft foods. You didn’t show that in your drawing. The secondary bevel and the mass above the primary bevel are what gives the saber it’s great strength. And you actually have to raise angle of attack in order to get it to feather wood. This is just my opinion. But I think I am correct on this one. God bless you. John
This is correct, saber is a scandi with secondary bevel and needs to switch places with the scandi on his drawing chart
There are tons of blades out there touting as scandis but many have a secondary micro bevel for durability. What then, would you call what's essentially a flat grind but with a larger angle than a flat as the grind doesn't reach the spine of the knife? Is that not a Saber?
nailed it
Exactly! That's why I carry as many as I can hold! The right task will present itself, and I am gloriously ready!
Come here, after watching you on Townsend!
So impressed by your skills.👍🖐
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, and wilderness life skills.
Moira
From England.
When I'm out in the woods, I have learned to bring two blades: a flat grind (2-3in neck-knife or a SAK) and a very small hatchet (3in convex cutting-edge).
Thanks for explaining why that works so well.
PS: In winter I also bring a 21" folding saw, for firewood.
Me too - although I choose a Tomahawk instead of a similarly dimensioned hatched to save on weight.
same conclusion I'm at too - hatchet mucho importante
@@bbtb785 I hear you regarding the weight. As I am fast going towards sixty every gram counts! But I prefer the splitting power of the hatchet over the tomahawk. Personal preference!
I fall in between a hiker and a bushcrafter, and I carry a small folding saw and a scandi grind knife. Works great for me. Still super lightweight for those 15 mile hikes, but can do Bush crafty things on my base camp trips.
Another excellent video with very well said context. Personality, because of the reasons you explained in this video I try to put a scandivex edge on my bushcraft knives.
I love that you are knowledgeable, and that you share that knowledge about things that others want to know but that veteran bushcrafters don't realize others need mentorship with.
You're awesome, Dan!
Love how you made this so simple for the conman man knife user who’s probably confused by all of the other videos and forums and arguments out there
Thanks for this posting. I picked up a sabre grind knife a couple days ago. Still getting to know it. So far it's performing well. 5mm spine 5" blade, 5" g10 handle. HC steel. D2 steel. Sabre grind. 5" handle. No hot spots. So far I like it.
Tour the 1st person that explained the different grinds etc like you did. It was presented perfectly. Thanks.
Wonderfully informative without a lot of Blah, blah, blah! Thank you SO much for this!
As always, you make valid points intelligently articulated. Thank you.
An excellent and informative synopsis of choosing the correct knife grind application. Fantastic and TY
Not all artists draw pictures. Look at the art you create with your heart and hands. You are an amazing artist!
Aww yes; happy little knife edges. Thank you for the great video.
Very nice video. Your explanations were clear, concise and most importantly they made sense.
The point is, right on the far end of the knife 😊
THANK YOU! I've heard of ALL of the different types of grinds on a blade...minus what each one is best for! I'm beyond thankful for this video, and it really makes perfect sense. Thanks so much for this video! Stay safe out there!
full flat is best for full through slicing and food prep.
Saber grind will perform pretty much the same as a full flat on most tasks except will have more mass and a broader blade overall making it worse for through slicing, but maybe better for chopping/splitting.
Scandi is best for bushcrafting not because it's tougher, but because there is no secondary bevel... meaning you can consistently make very fine feather sticks and easily carve precisely. It gives you very easy control of the edge and depth of cut in wood. Honestly, the Scandi grind is basically the best grind for everything (feather sticks, chopping, carving, etc) except maybe thin slicing foods.
Thanks. It only took me about 45 minutes to finally find a decent video explaining what the hell a convex grind is and why. 👍🏻
Great Dan, don't knock your art , you expressed your " point" very well. Art is all about expression. Also you brought together my interest in bushcrafting and knives so really enjoyed your talk. SITW
My grind is usually slightly coarser than filter...
(Bad coffee joke)
Great video, bad drawings, thank you for your expertise.
I've got a 25 year old SOG Seal and I never dared sharpen it...
At least now I know what type of grind it is.
Keep up the good work.
Clear and concise! Excellent explanation. OG coalcracker
I like the saber grind and the flat grind but what I mostly like is the bump and grind lol👍
This video was very informative for me! As an owner of quite a few Moras, this gives me a great guide as to what they can and can’t do!!! Thanks for this video!!!
So helpful...thanks, Dan. I'm rather new to bushcraft and scandi grind seems to be the most popular that most people talk about. The sabre grind has rarely been mentioned. Your vid will help a lot with my choice of knife to purchase.
A bushcrafter once explained these just like you did, but he made one distinction that you didn't. He said those are all double sided grinds. Each of those double sided grinds can be done single sided, leaving the other side flat. That versatility is an easy thing to add to an 8 min video to double the content with 20 sec of drawing. Great explanation of basic grinds and their purposes.
Thanks Dan, your a good teacher. Take care.
Full flat grinds are jewellery 😎
I thought I was the only one that loves saber grinds especially high saber grinds
I sharpen my knives by hand and end up with some kind of weird asymmetrical hollowed out half flat saber scandivex kinda thing. But this grind coupled with the right blade and handle geometry is absolutely Brilliant!
@Paul Sharman lol thanks.
Great explanation man. Thanks for the video. I'm taking my Coalcracker knife and other gear camping the next few nights.
I can appreciate an honest effort.
That explanation really helped me. Thank you!
Clear concise explanation, thank you
Wow... Great learning. Will sure miss seeing you at Uitwaaien and learning more, but will look forward to next year.
Saber grinds are my favorite too. They look good too.
I tend to use convex and chisel grinds. You can shave with a convex grind, but it takes practice to get a feel for the necessary cutting action. Chisel grinds dig hard, but give you the ability to lay the knife dead flat and shave the surface flat in ways that aren't always easy with a wedge grind.
Thanks for this video, Need a part 2 on this video!
I know it's not in the scope of this video but I think it's also worth bearing in mind the knife material and the effects it has on the behaviour of an edge.
Good lesson TY Angle of the Dangle Matter's alot ;)
Useful info. Gratitude
I can appreciate an honest effort
Excellent explanation!
Thank you learned something about myself. I now know I don’t have any idea what kind of grind I need. Just kidding great video and very informative
Great video. How about a part 2? "How to Tell What Kind of Grind is on Your Knife"
At last, someone promotes the sabre grind. All I see on bushcraft videos is the scandi. I too use the sabre, it gives me greater flexibility if I have the one, full-tang knife with me.
I CARRY A ESSE 6. LOVE THAT BLADE. SHARP ENOUGH TO GUT FISH AND SQUIRRLES. BUT STILL CUT TREES
Me too its the best compromise I have found my Trusty Esee 6.I agree 100%
Great explanation!
Scandi grind with no micro bevel on my Kellam Wolverine puukko, convex grind on a kukri for heavy work. That pretty much covers my bushcraft needs.
Sabre grind has to be my go to grind for utility and heavier work. Axe for the heavy chopping and a small flat grind blade for finer work
I like how he described this I personally like my axes and machetes to be convex I really love my Helko Werk Rheinland pattern axe because it came with a convex and has been extremely durable not chips no nothing and with the Rheinland design it cuts very deep but because of that convex it’s also durable I really love it and on knife for carving tasks most the time I’m usually working a softer or green wood not really working hardwoods very often and for that I really like the saber grinds that are on condor knives I also like the scandi on my knivsmed stromeng but it doesn’t carve quite as smoothly as some of the saber grind knives I have
I recently bought a Buck 692 with a 5ish inch blade and a (I believe) convex grind
My purpose is for hunting and some bushcrafting. I also have a larger Buck 650, more of a general purpose. Have yet to use either in the craft. But now I'm considering another grind. Never have enough knives. I Never go into the woods with less than 2 knives.
Fabulous overview sir! Love your content!
Excellent video , learned alot :)
I don’t know what type of edge it is but it’s very sharp and strong at the same time. I had an Eskimo girlfriend who showed me an ulu that her great grandad made. It had a walrus tusk for the handle but the blade was only sharpened on one side. She said that it made the blade stronger and sharper and that it was easier to sharpen and it made the blade last longer because you’re only sharpening one side of the blade. I’ve been using this on a few knives and it works great.
chisel grind.
That was very well explained. Thanks for the video.
I have some knives that almost has a concave grind, some sharp, most sabre grinds, a couple of sabre->sharp progressive grinds and two convex grinds. Funnily, the two convex grinds are sharpened bayonets.
🔥 great video 🔥
Nice video
Looks like I was setting up my edged tools correctly.
I have my maul and axe for heavy chopping (they ride in the truck/jeep until needed), a 'hawk for light chopping and "heavy blade" needs.
And my multi-tools with flat grinds for fine edge work.
Still looking for a medium to large blade, and a medium to small blade for tasks in those areas.
I like having some overlap with blades, a carryover from buckskinning days.
More of a "modern traditionalist" now. I don't need authentic gear, but tried and true gear is always an option.
Really useful. Thanks a million
That’s interesting. I knew edge geometry determines how well a blade like you say shaved or chops and that’s why nobody should limit themselves to just 1 axe or 1 knife. I say that but I only carry a knife during deer season
Really helpful and well explained thanks.
I usually re profile my lighter duty knives to a 20 degree cutting edge. And my heavier duty ones to a 25 it seems to work for me. Thanks great video
the Karl Rove of bushcraft :)
Yep, Sabre grind for me too, for a general purpose knife!
I got here searching what a scandi grind was and got lots of good info
I thought I knew stuff about knives. Now I don't know who I am.
There is to much choices lol
I bought my first bushcraft knife that is quite thick .25" spine w convex/sabre grind advertised.
Cool!
So how do I sharpen it??
Both at home vs field w no electricity....🤔🤔🤔
I keep researching yet no tangible method w/o electricity!
Buffer wheels, "slack belts"
I tried a whetstone n just scratched up the convex part!😮. Thank You! Your video only one that shared the balance between durability vs sharpness
Thank You
I didn't see the RAZOR edge, I love a good razor blade for many lighter duty tasks! There are several really nice replaceable blade razor knives on the market now, some kinda flimsy but all are very useful.
I think this is why Nessmuk had the Nessmuk trio (Fixed blade, folding knife, and double-bit hatchet) That way you can have multiple grinds and in the case of the hatchet a side for chopping and a side for splitting. Personally, I am not big on folding knives or knives with blades longer than 2 1/2" - 3" for skinning anyway. I learned to skin with a small bladed knife when I was young. I am still better at using a small blade than a large one, my friends often wondered how I was so quick with a small blade. I am planning on getting a woodsman's pal and carrying a modified old hickory boning knife cut down to the size of a patch/paring knife and changing the handle material how it's fastened and shaped with a flat grind and a modified old hickory hunting knife once again handle changes with a saber grind. That should take care of every type of cutting, shaving, whittling, or whatever I could possibly need to do.
👍 convex edge - Nuff Said!
Flat grind is my do all choice, sharp and still much more durable than hollow grinds anyway
Well done 👏
I'm definitely a scandi grind guy
I'm partial to using saber grinds on my outdoors tools due to their ease of maintinance and all around utility. I even use them on most of my kitchen gear, and let me tell you they excel overly well in that application.
very helpful. thanks
I appreciate the effort you put into this video but I think it should be noted that "slicey" and "sharp" are different things entirely. It's important to know that 99% of flat grind knives have a secondary bevel similar to a saber grind. As a result, a flat grind is more "slicey" than a scandi grind due to the overall thinness of the the entire blade, which you notice especially when trying to slice meat/food, but the scandi grind can actually get much sharper at the very edge than the flat grind due to the lack of a significant secondary bevel. This is the reason it carves wood so well- there's no resistance at the edge from a secondary bevel (or very little due to a microbevel).
Thanks Dan
Thank you
I had a Schrade SCHF51 hollow grind that was too deep and off center making it weak in the middle of the primary grind and horrible for feather sticking right handed. I then bought a thick flat grind Ontario tak1. Great feather sticking and thick enough to baton carefully. Otherwise I'd pick a saber grind like a ESEE 5. They do sound like a good all arounder.
Scandi is what I use for feathersticking.
Good info mate, can you make a knife sharpening video. Especially for convex blades. Cheers.
Very helpful 👊🏻
Depends on the thickness of the stock. A thin stock with a scandi can be MUCH sharper than even a full flat grind if it's a very thick stock. Your diagram of course assumes stock thickness all being equal. But the reality is different. There are many other factors, like broadness of blade for instance. Using the same thickness stock but one blade is broad and one is narrow, you'll get totally different angles. Then there are secondary bevels to consider, etc. The real answer is to have several knives with you at all times, :D.
TBE is a big factor of durability as well... From steels like 8670, 5160, 1075 too steels like S110V, ZDP-189, Maxamet and Rex-121.
TBE = thickness behind the edge
Thicker is stronger, but thinner cuts better
Great video..i try and tell people the same philosophy..it goes for guns and outdoor wear as well...what are you doing for the tool you need
The 3 grinds that are totally different are convex, hollow and flat. Saber and scandi are simply an offshoot of flat as the difference is well after the edge.
98% of saber and flat grinds have secondary bevels, which ends up being at approx the same angle as the convex
Secondary bevels are yeah don’t like them haha but what he means by saber is kinda like a condor knife where it’s still a scandi but pulled back more flat it really depends what brands your looking at if your looking at actually bushcraft types knife brands you won’t run into secondary bevels I mean really at all just depends where your looking if your looking at more modern tactical type knives like yeah almost all will be secondary bevels
@@hudsonhornet6558 Like yeah, you're repeating modern drivel, like yeah. Do that stuff, know that stuff, like yeah.
Not true about a saber grind when you said not good at battoning a saber is like a wedge if done right and is my favorite grind for processing wood . Its also great for quartering game . Also you touched on durability saber has the most meat when again done right
I use a work sharp with the grinder attachment. Everything I own gets a convex edge at some point just because belts curve. It's not bad with the worksharp though, not a huge convex curve to it. Still gets shaving sharp and holds it just a bit longer! Awesome video, very informative! I still use stones when I'm just trying to zone out and relax.
Already in the thumbnail incorrectly. You get any of the these grinds equally sharp. The difference is in the cutting performance as some of these grinds have more wedging/splitting capabilities instead of cutting ones. It depends on what you want to do with your knife which grind you should consider.
He called me an internet warrior... still laughing because he's right.
Great video. I didn't know that the saber grind could make thinner shavings than the scandi grind.
The thickness of the shavings is more about the skill of the user, but the saber can make thinner shavings for a different reason than he stated. The saber and scandi grind he has on here actually need to trade places as the saber grind looks like the scandi but has a secondary bevel making it more relatable to the convex edge. The saber grind will have an easier time making thin shavings because it has a wider angle edge than the scandi. Due to it's flat geometry, the scandi will bite off more wood while carving than the saber. Hence the popular term the scandi blade overbite
At first look I thought that was a UFO parked behind you… Then I realized it was a hard structured roof.
You never know… Aliens may need to learn Bushcraft too.
I think I understand, but it would be easier if you could show me how you would use each grind to cut down a happy little bush. Bob Ross like a boss!
I'd like to hear your opinion on the Condor Selknam knife. That convex edge brought me here because I'm having difficultly with feather sticks and the new knife
I think a scandi grind on a 2 mm - 2.5 mm thick knife would be ok for diffrent tasks. Also a very fine convex blade on a 3mm blade or a saber with a slight convex secondery on a 2.5 mm - 3 mm blade.
Good explanation. What angle do you prefer to sharpen it?
Would be nice to see the techniques with a whet stone for getting those grinds. I (no expert at all) think I’ve been doing the third one as I usually raise my knife edge slightly when using a whet stone. Guessing the drawings are exaggerated to make the point (no pun intended)
Dude. You should teach this stuff for a career.
A black UFO has just landed behind you!
You did make a point .pick your knife for the work.
An flat grind being edge heavy convex. Like a full flat except having a microbevel that is convex. Is it a good compromize? Any thoughts? I think I would describe the Fallkniven f1 as a convex although it almost look like a flat, but carves great. It seems to be very durable. Thoughts?