Running without the LVC would put the battery’s overall lifespan at risk. You just don’t want to run then lower than 15.0 volts (ideally). I stopped using the LVC and use a digital voltage meter to monitor what the voltage is at and then swap out batteries around 15.5 volts
Ya, using a voltage cutoff is a hassle. Even with batteries that have an internal cutoff, I recommend installing a cheap digital voltage gauge on the dash, just so you know how much juice you have left. And if you want to preserve the life of the battery, don’t run it under 16.0 volts
best tutorial on youtube! can you add what gauge wires you use for each component. i have no electrical experience so i need specific specs of everything. thanks for your help!
@@DadHacks I have a ride on that comes with a control module that allows me to remote control the car. ( hy2005rx 24v) do i put the PWM after the control module then to the motors, or between the battery and control module . (Battery>PWM>Control Module>Motors) or (Battery>Control module>PWM>motors)? thanks in advanced
Very useful info on here. I'm just wondering about a simple question but since I havent yet done anything to my son's truck but I plan too. I want to do it right the first time around. His uses 2 batteries/ a 24V set up. So my question is do I need a 24V battery or would an 18V suit it just fine?
@@DadHacks I thought so. I just wanted to be sure. Cause the other batteries I keep finding are 40V but I think that would be to much and it would probably end up destroying it than anything
You could wire two 18vs to produce 36v then get a step down to 24v. That way you have more amp hours available at the right voltage. I have a trax Dodge with that setup with dual Makita batteries and it runs for days.
@hectorgarza5026 Are you sure that you are increasing the amp hours? If you wire two batteries in series it only increases the voltage, not the amp hour rating.
Hey man, this video has been really helpful. I am working on doing a setup similar to your method #4. One question, have you had issues with that setup drawing power when the power wheel wasn’t in use? I started with a setup similar to your method #2 and noticed it drawing down my batteries too much so that is why I am changing. I know the low voltage module will protect the batters but also curious if I leave the batteries in when not use if it will continue to draw small power until it trips the low voltage module. I was thinking about adding an additional power switch to the circuit to try and prevent any power being drawn when not in use. Just curious if you have a thought. Thanks
Yes, with the LVC board, it will continue to draw power. I’ve also been adding a digital volt meter on the dashboard which shows the current battery voltage, but if I leave the battery in, it will run down. So I’ve been adding an On/Off switch on cars where I can’t easily remove the battery. Ideally, remove the battery after each use, but if you cant, try adding an on/off switch
Thanks for the info. I want to use 80v batteries from kolbalt since I have several of them and just as many power wheels. Could I put the speed controller ahead of the low voltage cut off and reduce it down to 18 volts?
If you are going to use the LVC board, you will need to follow method 3 and use a relay. If it were me, I’d just buy a digital voltage gauge and some cheap 18v 6ah batteries and not worry about the LVC board.
Do you have a link for the speed control unit that you used? I saw links for everything but that. I'll be using a 20v tool battery for a 6v ride on toy, so I want to make sure I don't fry the engine and make sure it isn't too powerful for my littlest kid.
I'm almost done with my build but would like to add a rocker switch to kill the whole circuit so the LVC doesn't drain the battery when not driven for a while (I realize I could just remove.the battery...). Most switches I am finding say they are only rated for 12V. Is there a way to add a switch right after the battery that won't get fried? Maybe it needs its own relay somehow? Appreciate any insight you may have.
I made the switch to drill battery but now the car is way to fast for my kids. I've tried adding two different pwm speed controllers to be able to slow it down. The car powers up and when you hit the go pedal its very jerky and the power/lights blink and eventually trips the fuse. Do I need the relay?
You may not like the answer, but the best thing to do is switch back to a 12 volt since it’s too fast on 18 volts. Unlike a Power Wheels brand car, you can’t add a “soft brake” because of how it’s wired. My best advice is to use that car until they get bored of 12 volts and then buy a used Power Wheels off Facebook marketplace for cheap (less than $100) and then put 18 volts on that car.
Makes sense. What about different gear boxes? Ones with 15-20k rotations. If I used the original 12V battery could I use a step up booster before the rx30 to get to 15 or 18V? @@DadHacks
Hey, I've been really into havocware build but yours is a bit different, is the 24v relay important to the diagram? Seems they are harder to come by on amazon here in Canada. Great video and well explained
Thanks! Yes, the relay is important because the LVC board can not handle the high current. You can find a 24v Relay at any automotive parts store. I have another video (method #3) that you may also want to check out ruclips.net/video/S9LMmRpvSGg/видео.html
Hi! No, the relay just protects the Low voltage cutoff board because the LVC board can’t handle the full current from the battery. And the LVC board is only used because most power tool batteries don’t have a battery management system built in them (so if you were to fully drain the battery, it would damage the battery). If you want to use a power tool battery (18 or 20 volts) but don’t want to hassle with the LVC board and relay, you could just add a Digital Voltmeter and then replace the stock 12v control board with a 24v control board. Once the battery shows 15.0 volts on the digital voltmeter, you would need to change batteries. Here’s a link to a replacement 24v control board:amzn.to/3g6qmhG
@@DadHacks Gotcha, thank you. I like the relay to LVC board myself. Your diagram is fantastic and seems very straight forward to wire up. Connecting back to the stock control board was the one part throwing me for loop. So from the motor goes into the stock control board right?
@@jarrodcolon9983 That's correct. The wires from the motor will connect directly to the control board. If your car is a stock 12v, then your control board can only handle 12 volts. If you increase the voltage you will fry the board.
@@DadHacks sorry still having some confusion connecting the speed controller to the motor. The connection from my foot control has 2 wires (blue and white) running to the motor the other end connects to the control board. Not sure where to run the cables from the speed controller.
I see various statements about whether Makita star series 18v batteries prevent over discharge or not. Some people say the battery must be attached to a Makita tool to prevent over discharge. In any case I am doubtful the third party batteries in your link prevent over discharge. Any comments?
There is a great video that I’ll link that talks about the different batteries function. The Makita battery does not need to be attached to the tool, as the BMS is in the battery. As for the non-OEM battery, it says it has the same over discharge protection as the OEM Makita battery, but I have never ran it down far enough to test at what voltage level it shuts off at. ruclips.net/video/4OkT_SU6GSg/видео.html
@@DadHacks Good video, thanks. The issue I see is that Makita shuts off at about 12.5- which is lower than recommended for optimum battery life, from what I gather.
@@leftofone ya, I used to cut mine off between 15.0 and 16.0 volts but I’ve moved away from power tool batteries back to SLA batteries. I wire up a 12v/12ah and a 6v/12ah in series to get 18 volts and it works much better than the power tool batteries, imo.
Okay. My kids car drives like there is a loose connection. I am running it with a 18V drill batter with a 30A fuse. But I think it is the built in thermal fuse that is causing the issues. There is acutally two of the. One 5A and a 13A. Do I need Them?
@@DadHacks I dont know the brand. Cant find it anywhere. The 13A is just right after the batter (positive line). The 5A is on the switch that controls high and low speed. Could it be for when it is drivning low speed. My son is allways drivning in low speed.
@@henriklassen3435 if the 13 amp was right off the battery, then yes, try removing it since you have a 30amp. What size are the wires? At least 14 AWG?
Do you know if the craftman 20v battery has an internal low voltage cutoff…also can i just add a voltage display so i can monitor the voltage…instead of a volt cutoff mod.
I do think that Craftsman has an internal LVC. And yes, I actually have been using a digital voltage display instead of the LVC board recently. I find it more helpful.
Another? Would it be ok if i ran the battery up front, but the voltage controller in the rear of a mustang. My son always washes his car and i dont want hin to get the controller wet.
@@spins8085 ideally you will want the connection “tie in” to be near the battery, you can run longer wire to the back of the car without an issue though. It’s just finding a good spot to tap into to
Looking to do Method 2 for my kids John Deer Gator. I want to wire the batteries in parallel to just increase the Ah and use the 18v to make it a little quicker. How do you think would be best to wire them in parallel for method 2? Completely clueless haha Amazing video by the way. Literally used up hours of my evening working out how to make this car quicker haha 😆
Thanks! To run the batteries in parallel, you will need to add a fuse in between the batteries (it doesn’t matter if it’s positive or negative side, I just always do it on the positive side) and another fuse after the battery connection on the positive side. I would also suggest to add a digital voltage gauge, especially if you are using a power tool battery.
@@DadHacks so. Update. Everything worked a amazing. BUT when he comes off the gas the wheels lock and he skids for ages. Any gadget I can add to stop it slamming off and roll to the stop? Might save the gears! Haha
@@Droplip Yes, so on the gas pedal there should be a blue wire, this acts as the brake to the motor. You can simply unplug the blue wire and the wheel should continue to spin after you let go of the pedal. However, doing this means the Gator could roll backwards if they stop on an incline. You can also add a brake resistor to the blue wire, I’m gonna make a video on that shortly (hopefully in a few weeks)
Complete noob here. I ran through the set up for the most part (18 volt Li battery, 30A inline fuse, DC Motor Speed Controller Switch) just without the LVC, but the control board for the car was 12volts. pretty sure I blew a capacitor due to voltage into the board. Would a 24volt board resolve the issue, as it could handle the voltage, but don't want to short the car on power, even though the motors are rated for 12volts? wondering if peripheral devices would (lights, radio, etc) would lode functionality due to the lower voltage going need for the control board.
hey man i know this is old video but i’m in need of some help. i ordered the dewalt battery conversion kit on amazon that comes with the adapter the low protection board and the speed controller i wired everything up how it’s supposed to be however i don’t have the 24v relay or the terminal block. The issue i’m having is i can adjust the voltage with the speed controller and can see on the gauge the voltage it’s sending to the motor but as soon as i plug it in to the motor it’s stuck at 20v and the car will not turn on it is a push button start car if i just press the button i can see the light bar on the dash flash once and i can hear the motor clicking subtly but if i unplug the power plug from the motor i can put my multi meter to it and i’m getting the voltage output that i set it with the speed controller. The car does have radio and bluetooth horn button etc i checked all fuses and wiring everything is good. Question is do I need to have the relay and terminal block? i would imagine the car should still kick on being in getting power to the plug but why it won’t allow me to adjust it i’m not sure. I will note i wired it up with the first method just wiring the adapter directly to the motor but i had a fuse in it and the car worked for a short period of time it actually killed the dewalt battery completely in like 8 min of driving and then i’ve been having issues ever since i even put a brand new motor in it along with the new conversion kit and i’m still having the problems. Did i possibly fry something else?
It could be the control board. Check out my other video. ruclips.net/video/W2nbWo9Afqc/видео.html. Those board don’t like to be over volted. You will likely need a 24v board that can handle the 20 volts you are using.amzn.to/443cs7N. Lastly, the speed controller doesn’t lower the voltage per se, its changes the pulse of the voltage, which slows down the motor, even if it’s showing 20 volts
@@DadHacksdo have an update i’m actually out here right now with it i wired in the relay and everything exact to your diagram and when i try to start it the voltage gauge drops down to 4volts and it just clicks and clicks i wired up the old 12v battery and car turns right on. my only question if i get that motor my harness won’t fit those plugs is there a harness i can get for it?
ok im doing an 18v swap from 6v i been told anything over 12v will fry my radio and lights anyway i can avoid a fire n not have a sad lil girl in the morning asking y daddy broke her toy lol
You will need to “step down” the voltage for the radio and lights with this amzn.to/3vG0jbJ. The two wires between the missing pin on the control board are the two wires to use to “step down” the voltage. If it also has a control board, that will need to be replaced with one that can handle 18 volts, like this one. You will need to verify the number of pins is the same, this one has 7 pins amzn.to/42dN8el
@@DadHackswondering if this is what i need. so the two wires on the converter go to the two wires on the seven pin plug and then the other two wires on the converter tap into the battery?
The materials list is in the Description of this video
Running without the LVC would put the battery’s overall lifespan at risk. You just don’t want to run then lower than 15.0 volts (ideally). I stopped using the LVC and use a digital voltage meter to monitor what the voltage is at and then swap out batteries around 15.5 volts
Low voltage cutoff board
glad I checked this out before wasting money on a low voltage protector when my battery already has one
Ya, using a voltage cutoff is a hassle. Even with batteries that have an internal cutoff, I recommend installing a cheap digital voltage gauge on the dash, just so you know how much juice you have left. And if you want to preserve the life of the battery, don’t run it under 16.0 volts
best tutorial on youtube! can you add what gauge wires you use for each component. i have no electrical experience so i need specific specs of everything. thanks for your help!
Thanks! I used 12 AWG wire. I have a link in the description of the video
@@DadHacks I have a ride on that comes with a control module that allows me to remote control the car. ( hy2005rx 24v) do i put the PWM after the control module then to the motors, or between the battery and control module . (Battery>PWM>Control Module>Motors) or (Battery>Control module>PWM>motors)? thanks in advanced
@@petersnng put the PWM after the control module
thanks for the video. wouldn't it be more appropriate for the fuse to the on the other side of the terminal strip as close to the battery as possible?
Ideally yes, you want the fuse as close to the battery as possible.
Do you have a video talking about the 24v system using the electric bike pedal method?
Yes, here’s the link: Power Wheels ESC Speed Upgrade
ruclips.net/video/dXbnSH3avKc/видео.html
Very useful info on here. I'm just wondering about a simple question but since I havent yet done anything to my son's truck but I plan too. I want to do it right the first time around. His uses 2 batteries/ a 24V set up. So my question is do I need a 24V battery or would an 18V suit it just fine?
You’d want to keep it at 24volts. The motors are rated for 24 volts and dropping the battery voltage to 18v would actually slow the car down.
@@DadHacks I thought so. I just wanted to be sure. Cause the other batteries I keep finding are 40V but I think that would be to much and it would probably end up destroying it than anything
You could wire two 18vs to produce 36v then get a step down to 24v. That way you have more amp hours available at the right voltage. I have a trax Dodge with that setup with dual Makita batteries and it runs for days.
@hectorgarza5026 Are you sure that you are increasing the amp hours? If you wire two batteries in series it only increases the voltage, not the amp hour rating.
Hey man, this video has been really helpful. I am working on doing a setup similar to your method #4. One question, have you had issues with that setup drawing power when the power wheel wasn’t in use? I started with a setup similar to your method #2 and noticed it drawing down my batteries too much so that is why I am changing. I know the low voltage module will protect the batters but also curious if I leave the batteries in when not use if it will continue to draw small power until it trips the low voltage module. I was thinking about adding an additional power switch to the circuit to try and prevent any power being drawn when not in use. Just curious if you have a thought. Thanks
Yes, with the LVC board, it will continue to draw power. I’ve also been adding a digital volt meter on the dashboard which shows the current battery voltage, but if I leave the battery in, it will run down. So I’ve been adding an On/Off switch on cars where I can’t easily remove the battery. Ideally, remove the battery after each use, but if you cant, try adding an on/off switch
Appreciate the feedback. I was thinking about adding the on/off switch between the battery and the terminal switch, thoughts?
Thanks for the info. I want to use 80v batteries from kolbalt since I have several of them and just as many power wheels. Could I put the speed controller ahead of the low voltage cut off and reduce it down to 18 volts?
If you are going to use the LVC board, you will need to follow method 3 and use a relay. If it were me, I’d just buy a digital voltage gauge and some cheap 18v 6ah batteries and not worry about the LVC board.
Do you have the video of this set up where you have the speed controller with the voltage regulator?
@@rasz1013 no, but the diagram at 4:19 shows how to wire up the speed controller with the voltage cutoff board
Do you have a link for the speed control unit that you used? I saw links for everything but that. I'll be using a 20v tool battery for a 6v ride on toy, so I want to make sure I don't fry the engine and make sure it isn't too powerful for my littlest kid.
I used this speed controller. a.co/d/aweMheK
I'm almost done with my build but would like to add a rocker switch to kill the whole circuit so the LVC doesn't drain the battery when not driven for a while (I realize I could just remove.the battery...). Most switches I am finding say they are only rated for 12V. Is there a way to add a switch right after the battery that won't get fried? Maybe it needs its own relay somehow? Appreciate any insight you may have.
You are correct, the on/off switch will need its own relay. Do you know how to wire one up?
I made the switch to drill battery but now the car is way to fast for my kids. I've tried adding two different pwm speed controllers to be able to slow it down. The car powers up and when you hit the go pedal its very jerky and the power/lights blink and eventually trips the fuse. Do I need the relay?
Which car do you have?
I should add that I am plugging into a weelye rx30
This is the car. OLAKIDS 2 Seater Kids Ride on Car, 12V Electric Truck UTV with Remote Control
You may not like the answer, but the best thing to do is switch back to a 12 volt since it’s too fast on 18 volts. Unlike a Power Wheels brand car, you can’t add a “soft brake” because of how it’s wired. My best advice is to use that car until they get bored of 12 volts and then buy a used Power Wheels off Facebook marketplace for cheap (less than $100) and then put 18 volts on that car.
Makes sense. What about different gear boxes? Ones with 15-20k rotations. If I used the original 12V battery could I use a step up booster before the rx30 to get to 15 or 18V? @@DadHacks
Hey, I've been really into havocware build but yours is a bit different, is the 24v relay important to the diagram? Seems they are harder to come by on amazon here in Canada.
Great video and well explained
Thanks! Yes, the relay is important because the LVC board can not handle the high current. You can find a 24v Relay at any automotive parts store. I have another video (method #3) that you may also want to check out ruclips.net/video/S9LMmRpvSGg/видео.html
Hey! I found one today at my local Canadian Tire. Right by the automotive area's electical connectors. 7, 99$
Hey Dad Hacks, Great Video. Does the 24v relay you have added replace the relay board that comes with some cars?
Hi! No, the relay just protects the Low voltage cutoff board because the LVC board can’t handle the full current from the battery. And the LVC board is only used because most power tool batteries don’t have a battery management system built in them (so if you were to fully drain the battery, it would damage the battery).
If you want to use a power tool battery (18 or 20 volts) but don’t want to hassle with the LVC board and relay, you could just add a Digital Voltmeter and then replace the stock 12v control board with a 24v control board. Once the battery shows 15.0 volts on the digital voltmeter, you would need to change batteries.
Here’s a link to a replacement 24v control board:amzn.to/3g6qmhG
@@DadHacks Gotcha, thank you. I like the relay to LVC board myself. Your diagram is fantastic and seems very straight forward to wire up. Connecting back to the stock control board was the one part throwing me for loop. So from the motor goes into the stock control board right?
@@jarrodcolon9983 That's correct. The wires from the motor will connect directly to the control board. If your car is a stock 12v, then your control board can only handle 12 volts. If you increase the voltage you will fry the board.
@@DadHacks Wonderful. Thank you so much for taking the time to explain this to me.
@@DadHacks sorry still having some confusion connecting the speed controller to the motor. The connection from my foot control has 2 wires (blue and white) running to the motor the other end connects to the control board. Not sure where to run the cables from the speed controller.
I see various statements about whether Makita star series 18v batteries prevent over discharge or not. Some people say the battery must be attached to a Makita tool to prevent over discharge. In any case I am doubtful the third party batteries in your link prevent over discharge. Any comments?
There is a great video that I’ll link that talks about the different batteries function. The Makita battery does not need to be attached to the tool, as the BMS is in the battery. As for the non-OEM battery, it says it has the same over discharge protection as the OEM Makita battery, but I have never ran it down far enough to test at what voltage level it shuts off at.
ruclips.net/video/4OkT_SU6GSg/видео.html
@@DadHacks Good video, thanks. The issue I see is that Makita shuts off at about 12.5- which is lower than recommended for optimum battery life, from what I gather.
@@leftofone ya, I used to cut mine off between 15.0 and 16.0 volts but I’ve moved away from power tool batteries back to SLA batteries. I wire up a 12v/12ah and a 6v/12ah in series to get 18 volts and it works much better than the power tool batteries, imo.
@@DadHacks Interesting to hear. Can you elaborate on why you prefer sla, and why the power tool batteries were not as good?
SLA’s are cheap and I have a lot of rides so I need a lot of batteries. The only time I’ll use a tool battery is when space for a battery is limited.
Okay. My kids car drives like there is a loose connection. I am running it with a 18V drill batter with a 30A fuse. But I think it is the built in thermal fuse that is causing the issues. There is acutally two of the. One 5A and a 13A. Do I need Them?
What type of car is it? I think the 5amp and 13 amp fuses are for lights or sounds.
@@DadHacks I dont know the brand. Cant find it anywhere. The 13A is just right after the batter (positive line). The 5A is on the switch that controls high and low speed. Could it be for when it is drivning low speed. My son is allways drivning in low speed.
Was it originally a 6 volt or 12 volt battery setup?
@@DadHacks 12V
@@henriklassen3435 if the 13 amp was right off the battery, then yes, try removing it since you have a 30amp. What size are the wires? At least 14 AWG?
Do you know if the craftman 20v battery has an internal low voltage cutoff…also can i just add a voltage display so i can monitor the voltage…instead of a volt cutoff mod.
I do think that Craftsman has an internal LVC. And yes, I actually have been using a digital voltage display instead of the LVC board recently. I find it more helpful.
Really appreciate the reply.
Another? Would it be ok if i ran the battery up front, but the voltage controller in the rear of a mustang. My son always washes his car and i dont want hin to get the controller wet.
@@spins8085 ideally you will want the connection “tie in” to be near the battery, you can run longer wire to the back of the car without an issue though. It’s just finding a good spot to tap into to
@@DadHacks ok i appreciate the help…thanks
Looking to do Method 2 for my kids John Deer Gator. I want to wire the batteries in parallel to just increase the Ah and use the 18v to make it a little quicker.
How do you think would be best to wire them in parallel for method 2? Completely clueless haha
Amazing video by the way. Literally used up hours of my evening working out how to make this car quicker haha 😆
Thanks! To run the batteries in parallel, you will need to add a fuse in between the batteries (it doesn’t matter if it’s positive or negative side, I just always do it on the positive side) and another fuse after the battery connection on the positive side.
I would also suggest to add a digital voltage gauge, especially if you are using a power tool battery.
@@DadHacks Great. I’ll be using Makita batteries so you think I will still need the volt gauge?
You don’t “need” the digital voltage gauge, but it’s nice to be able to see how much power is left in the batteries
@@DadHacks so. Update. Everything worked a amazing. BUT when he comes off the gas the wheels lock and he skids for ages. Any gadget I can add to stop it slamming off and roll to the stop? Might save the gears! Haha
@@Droplip Yes, so on the gas pedal there should be a blue wire, this acts as the brake to the motor. You can simply unplug the blue wire and the wheel should continue to spin after you let go of the pedal. However, doing this means the Gator could roll backwards if they stop on an incline. You can also add a brake resistor to the blue wire, I’m gonna make a video on that shortly (hopefully in a few weeks)
Complete noob here. I ran through the set up for the most part (18 volt Li battery, 30A inline fuse, DC Motor Speed Controller Switch) just without the LVC, but the control board for the car was 12volts. pretty sure I blew a capacitor due to voltage into the board. Would a 24volt board resolve the issue, as it could handle the voltage, but don't want to short the car on power, even though the motors are rated for 12volts? wondering if peripheral devices would (lights, radio, etc) would lode functionality due to the lower voltage going need for the control board.
Ya, the control board is blown. You will need a board that can handle 24volts. Here’s a link: a.co/d/fXApTpE
@@DadHacks that's what I figured, but there should be no loss in power and function with a higher voltage control, correct?
Actually, you will need a 12v buck converter for the lights or sounds (if there are any), those have issues with higher voltage. a.co/d/0hcpBuD
hey man i know this is old video but i’m in need of some help. i ordered the dewalt battery conversion kit on amazon that comes with the adapter the low protection board and the speed controller i wired everything up how it’s supposed to be however i don’t have the 24v relay or the terminal block. The issue i’m having is i can adjust the voltage with the speed controller and can see on the gauge the voltage it’s sending to the motor but as soon as i plug it in to the motor it’s stuck at 20v and the car will not turn on it is a push button start car if i just press the button i can see the light bar on the dash flash once and i can hear the motor clicking subtly but if i unplug the power plug from the motor i can put my multi meter to it and i’m getting the voltage output that i set it with the speed controller. The car does have radio and bluetooth horn button etc i checked all fuses and wiring everything is good. Question is do I need to have the relay and terminal block? i would imagine the car should still kick on being in getting power to the plug but why it won’t allow me to adjust it i’m not sure. I will note i wired it up with the first method just wiring the adapter directly to the motor but i had a fuse in it and the car worked for a short period of time it actually killed the dewalt
battery completely in like 8 min of driving and then i’ve been having issues ever since i even put a brand new motor in it along with the new conversion kit and i’m still having the problems. Did i possibly fry something else?
It could be the control board. Check out my other video. ruclips.net/video/W2nbWo9Afqc/видео.html. Those board don’t like to be over volted. You will likely need a 24v board that can handle the 20 volts you are using.amzn.to/443cs7N. Lastly, the speed controller doesn’t lower the voltage per se, its changes the pulse of the voltage, which slows down the motor, even if it’s showing 20 volts
@@DadHacksdo have an update i’m actually out here right now with it i wired in the relay and everything exact to your diagram and when i try to start it the voltage gauge drops down to 4volts and it just clicks and clicks i wired up the old 12v battery and car turns right on. my only question if i get that motor my harness won’t fit those plugs is there a harness i can get for it?
or is there a way to wire this harness to fit that 24v motor?
If the voltage is dropping down to 4 volts, the battery is dead
There’s no difference between a 550 12 volt motor and a 550 24v motor. They will fit the same
ok im doing an 18v swap from 6v i been told anything over 12v will fry my radio and lights anyway i can avoid a fire n not have a sad lil girl in the morning asking y daddy broke her toy lol
You will need to “step down” the voltage for the radio and lights with this amzn.to/3vG0jbJ. The two wires between the missing pin on the control board are the two wires to use to “step down” the voltage. If it also has a control board, that will need to be replaced with one that can handle 18 volts, like this one. You will need to verify the number of pins is the same, this one has 7 pins amzn.to/42dN8el
@@DadHackswondering if this is what i need. so the two wires on the converter go to the two wires on the seven pin plug and then the other two wires on the converter tap into the battery?