This is the type of video I like to watch for 3D printing. Like yourself I absolutely hate throwing something away because of an under-engineered plastic part. Great stuff.
Your content is really spectacular bro. It's unfortunate that the algorithm isn't pumping this informative and expedient content to more people... Regardless, thank you for creating such concise and useful videos.
Thanks for such a great comment. I'm sure one day RUclips will start showing my content to more people if it's good enough but, in the meantime, it's great to know that someone is enjoying what I'm making.👍
Its also because some manufacturers are having their lawyers remove tons of content - like HONDA doesn't want you to DIY, they want you to pay $200 for a cheap plastic part that breaks easy.
Thanks, I'm not too worried about the views for now. I get great comments like yours showing me that I create content that people like. As long as people get something from my videos then I'm happy.
If you use a ruler in the picture of your part, you can dimension the picture exactly to scale and get pretty darn close to actual dimensions. If you’re going to import a picture I always recommend, although you basically did the same thing using the critical dimensions of the part. Great video, just repaired my chainsaw choke that broke, took about 45 minutes for a part that would be a hassle to find and have shipped in.
Nice, handy tips on how to measure the hole positions. May not always be needed if you have a photo to align with anyway, but good practice (and confirmation when it matches the photo). I need to get started on modelling a few things.
Sure, I have used photos for more accurate measurements before but have got into trouble because of lens distortion/perspective. It's not too bad on small bits but if they are critical measurements I always measure. You still need to measure at least one dimension to scale the photo too👍
@@RickyImpey noticed you’re using the smooth side of the bed now. How do you find it compared to the coated side? Also, any recommended videos/guides for getting started with Fusion 360?
@@nodowt I do tend to use the smooth glass side more as I have more successful prints with it compared to the carborundum coating. I think both sides work but the carborundum doesn't seem to work so well unless it's over 60°C. I also do use a little glue stick if I want a guaranteed successful print and it's easier to clean off the glass. When it comes to Fusion 360, I find the 'Product design online' RUclips channel to be the best. His 'Learn Fusion 360 in 30 days' series taught me all I needed to know to get me started a few years ago. Highly recommended 👍
@@RickyImpey cool, I haven’t tried flipping yet, so far so good with the coated side. The smooth glassy finish on the bottom of prints could be nice though; have seen some carbon fibre beds which leave a nice finish too. I actually have that playlist saved to watch already, will need to get started on them.
@@nodowt the glass does give a lovely flat finish on the bottom. I highly recommend committing to a week of a Fusion instructional video a day. If you're anything like me, I had always assumed it would be more difficult. I think anyone who owns a 3d printer should try and learn how to create their own things to print, it opens up a whole new world. Good luck and let me know how you get on👍
great video. I really like your content. An easier way would be to put it into a regular scanner of a printer, convert the file online from picture to svg and import that file into Tinkercad. Then just rescale using measurement and its done. Another Idea for your next video :)
So far I've only dabbled with Tinkercad, it has built in tutorials and it's so easy to use that even my 10 y/o daughter can design stuff. Will have to give Fusion 360 a go at some point.
This is the type of video I like to watch for 3D printing. Like yourself I absolutely hate throwing something away because of an under-engineered plastic part. Great stuff.
Your content is really spectacular bro. It's unfortunate that the algorithm isn't pumping this informative and expedient content to more people... Regardless, thank you for creating such concise and useful videos.
Thanks for such a great comment. I'm sure one day RUclips will start showing my content to more people if it's good enough but, in the meantime, it's great to know that someone is enjoying what I'm making.👍
Its also because some manufacturers are having their lawyers remove tons of content - like HONDA doesn't want you to DIY, they want you to pay $200 for a cheap plastic part that breaks easy.
shame that you have so little views, you provide really top videos.
Thanks, I'm not too worried about the views for now. I get great comments like yours showing me that I create content that people like. As long as people get something from my videos then I'm happy.
The pointy side on the caliper is for measuring holes and other stuff. 😉
If you use a ruler in the picture of your part, you can dimension the picture exactly to scale and get pretty darn close to actual dimensions. If you’re going to import a picture I always recommend, although you basically did the same thing using the critical dimensions of the part. Great video, just repaired my chainsaw choke that broke, took about 45 minutes for a part that would be a hassle to find and have shipped in.
Great tip, thanks 👍
Nice, handy tips on how to measure the hole positions.
May not always be needed if you have a photo to align with anyway, but good practice (and confirmation when it matches the photo).
I need to get started on modelling a few things.
Sure, I have used photos for more accurate measurements before but have got into trouble because of lens distortion/perspective. It's not too bad on small bits but if they are critical measurements I always measure. You still need to measure at least one dimension to scale the photo too👍
@@RickyImpey noticed you’re using the smooth side of the bed now. How do you find it compared to the coated side?
Also, any recommended videos/guides for getting started with Fusion 360?
@@nodowt I do tend to use the smooth glass side more as I have more successful prints with it compared to the carborundum coating. I think both sides work but the carborundum doesn't seem to work so well unless it's over 60°C. I also do use a little glue stick if I want a guaranteed successful print and it's easier to clean off the glass.
When it comes to Fusion 360, I find the 'Product design online' RUclips channel to be the best. His 'Learn Fusion 360 in 30 days' series taught me all I needed to know to get me started a few years ago. Highly recommended 👍
@@RickyImpey cool, I haven’t tried flipping yet, so far so good with the coated side. The smooth glassy finish on the bottom of prints could be nice though; have seen some carbon fibre beds which leave a nice finish too.
I actually have that playlist saved to watch already, will need to get started on them.
@@nodowt the glass does give a lovely flat finish on the bottom.
I highly recommend committing to a week of a Fusion instructional video a day. If you're anything like me, I had always assumed it would be more difficult. I think anyone who owns a 3d printer should try and learn how to create their own things to print, it opens up a whole new world. Good luck and let me know how you get on👍
Great video!
great video. I really like your content. An easier way would be to put it into a regular scanner of a printer, convert the file online from picture to svg and import that file into Tinkercad. Then just rescale using measurement and its done. Another Idea for your next video :)
So far I've only dabbled with Tinkercad, it has built in tutorials and it's so easy to use that even my 10 y/o daughter can design stuff. Will have to give Fusion 360 a go at some point.
Fusion 360 was pretty intuitive for me once I got the basics down. I'd definitely recommend giving it a try if you want accurate functional parts👍
Why can't you just trace around it? 😊
fix anything, dont think so, can it fix the transmission in my car, can fix the lock in my front door, what world hunger
It also won’t fix punctuation or grammar.
@@scardoso95 I know pretty shit