bro this video is like 3 whole yrs old, but believe me when i say i'm doing a design project for school right now and this video saved my entire life. thank you!
You have to caulk from under the shingle , injection does work but not as good anytime you drill a hole and just caulk it , use your flat bar to hold the shingle up and shoot a quarter sized dollop on the hole and then press the top shingle down and then smooth out the caulk that squeezed out of the hole making a good marriage between the shingles
THANK YOU!! I am watching your videos to prep for an interview for a solar company. I need to learn the terminology and stuff. I’m a corrections officer and I am so stressed. I wanna new start and to do something hands-on. Wish me luck!
This panel can put out close to 100 watts ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOqI2yqX0XVrhR2BMJciTWrHJpG8FhJyg when positioned in the appropriate southernly direction, tilted to the optimal angle for your latitude/date, and connected to a higher capacity device than a 500. The built in kickstand angle is a fixed at 50 degrees. Up to 20% more power can be output by selecting the actual date and latitude optimal angle.The 500 will only input 3.5A maximum at 18 volts for 63 watts. Some of the excess power from the panel can be fed into a USB battery bank, charged directly from the panel while also charging a 500. This will allow you to harvest as much as 63 + 15 = 78 watts.If this panel is used to charge a larger device, such as the power station, then its full output potential can be realized.
The video states the rails are 35.5 inches apart because the mounting holes on the back of the panels are that distance apart. However, I didn't see the end clamps or the mid clamps or any hardware used to attach to the mounting holes. Are the panels attached to the rails through the mounting holes or is it just attached by the friction of the clamps. If the mounting holes aren't used, then is the spacing of the rails really relevant? What if they are 30 inches or 40 inches apart instead of 35.5 inches. Video should have shown a close up view of what the clamps look like and how they are attached.
The panels are engineered to be fastened and supported at the mounting hole locations. You are not using the holes, but using them as a guide to determine where to clamp. Doesn't need to be exact. But these instructions prevent users from choosing bad mounting patterns.
Suppose you're putting the long side of the panels parallel to.the ground. Can you run the rails along the roof and mount at the short side of the panels?
Fantastic, professional, easy to understand and VERY thorough! Great job! And just out of curiosity: how COLD was it in that room?? You couldn’t tell by your extremely professional presentation, but I did happen to see your breath on numerous occasions! Haha
That guy was very good, learned what I needed!!!!! ONLY QUESTION: What did the 35.5" measurement on back of panels have to do with rail placement?? Appeared not significant since not using those holes on the back of PV panels.
How do you run the cables into your house without it looking like a mess? Especially the ground wire. Do you just run it off the side of your roof, or make another hole in the roof and run it through the attic?
@2:52 Letting the tape measure wind back at full speed is how you ruin a tape measure. It causes the foot at the end of the tape to stress, and as a result, can cause measurements to be off before it finally breaks. Let it wind back will you have an inch or so, then wind it in slowly. Jeremy (the host) does this several times, and you can hear it in the video. Take good care of your tools and they will last a lifetime. Do things like this, and the end of the tape will break and it will be time to buy a new tape measure.
There are several components to this topic . One plan I discovered which successfully combines these is the Ewans energy roadmap (google it if you're interested) without a doubt the most helpful resource i've heard of. Check out the amazing info .
That exciting news Matt! Looking forward to seeing your installation video/photos :) - Here are some other customer installations: www.wholesalesolar.com/customer-showcase
There you have it folks, no need to plug any panels in. Nicolas Tesla would be proud to learn his wireless electricity transmission is finally a complete success.
Hi J! Standing seam metal roofs are really easy because the clamp just bolts onto the metal seam, no drilling through the roof. For other types of metal rooftops you typically end up drilling into the sheet metal or the structure underneath there are specific clamps for the different types of roof profiles. here's the clamp product for the standing seam: www.wholesalesolar.com/6990065/sunmodo/racking/sunmodo-1-ez-standing-seam-clamp and here is bolt for most flat mounting surfaces: www.wholesalesolar.com/6999503/snapnrack/racking/snapnrack-metal-roof-base-assembly. Our senior techs can help you further at www.wholesalesolar.com
Do you have a video for people who are about to race their asphalt shingle roof for solar panel mounts that can be installed by the roofer and properly flashed?
I wanted to let you know that stud finders often struggle with the additional layer of shingles on the roof. A more reliable method might be to gently tap on the roof with a hammer and listen for the solid sound that indicates a rafter underneath. Once you've located two rafters, you can generally use the same spacing to find the others across the rest of the roof.
Nice job. Instead of a drill bit, you can use a piece of long white electrical wire (like for plugs and lights) and stick it in the whole. It will be easier to spot. My attic doesn't have that much room to move around looking for stuff. It is low and has Hvac stuff up there.
I don't think he's saying 2 to 3 in of the bolt holes on a panel, I think he's saying 2 to 3 in to the edge of the Iron ridge rack. That will leave space for the grounding lug. But on the other hand, mounting the panels within a couple inches of the panel mount holes will prevent any excessive cantilevering.
How do you adjust the panel angle if the roof is a little lower slope than you need? Do you have longer flashing attachments to raise the top of the panel up?
In my opinion it's best to dispense with mounting solar panels on the roof and put them on the ground instead. One problem with putting them on the roof is they may not be lined up the correct direction to effectively collect the sunlight. I would consider buying tilt mounts from a solar panel equipment dealer and using them as ground mounts which can be moved around as desired to get the panels facing the right direction.
Would probably be most ideal (aiming, ease of cleaning/maintenance, etc.) but it's not an option on every house. I live on a small lot so my only real option would be on the roof.
Not even an option at my location. I have to go with roof mount, but fortunately my roof is perfectly south-facing, no trees or sources of shade whatsoever (2nd story no trees around at all) and its tilted at 30 degrees. Yes, with ground mount or tilt mounts it would be more efficient to change as the seasons change, but I DO have a budget.
So are all bigger panels, 300-400w the same size? Is there a cheaper way to attach rails to the roof? Also what about a demo for folks who have vaults ceilings with NO loft of direct access from the inside to the back of the outer part of the roof.
Seems like the bottom fastener could to to the eaves instead of drilling holes in the room. The top will have to be drilled but seems like the rail could wrap around or something like that.
nice video went to your website to buy, but, your not interested in selling just that I spent a month learning about solar and have all I need but a roof mounting system I did want to look at your all-inclusive 2-phase hybrid controller/inverter when I expand
Good day sir, I have a question what causes the capacity of solar panels to be lost after installation like me an my team installed 270w/30v panel 12 of them but all we get is half the energy down the charge controller that is 1455w the rest is lost
First and foremost, this is not necessarily indicative of problem and you should not expect to see max output at all times. There can be a variety of reasons a PV systems array doesn’t produce what the array is rated for, at any given time. For instance, the system design itself will affect behavior. Most modern systems use multi-stage smart PV chargers. These chargers will throttle back and provide less and less current as the batteries near a full state of charge. Battery chemistry can further drive this behavior. This is wholly to the benefit of the batteries and helps extend their service life. Other factors such as weather, shading from trees and other obstructions, even mounting angle of the panels will drastically affect their output. Age of the modules should also be considered, as they lose roughly 0.5% of their output every year.
What do you mean by "engineering plans we provide"? I used the design tool on your ironridge website, but I had to buy from a vendor since you don't sell directly, and they don't provide any help at all. I thought your design tool would tell me exactly where to put the Flashfoot2, how far apart, etc but it really doesn't. Also, the design tool doesn't "lock" the design to rafter width. Yes, it adjusts to tell you how many flashfoots to buy in order to meet load bearing specifications, but it doesn't necessarily mean they line up with my rafters. I selected 6 ft apart, which is within the load bearing specs for the XR100, but now I see I will miss rafters as they are set at 16 inches. That sucks. You should have a read flag when this happens, I already ordered everything and I really need to order more flashfoots or get up in my attic and install support boards under the rafters where my spacing will be off....
I'm not finding one model number or part number to lookup this rack system. It's on the market I presume. I like to support products that are represented well but not able in this case.
monkey grip 2 x 2.5 tonne ratchet tie down straps together, double wrap and choke the panel along with ur misses to the interior bladder. place the top section of bed back on making sure the gorilla tape is securely fastend to her mouth. make the bed. then call ur mates for a 2 week fishing trip in the Ba hars.
Is there a best practice to prevent the solar panel wires from sagging too close to the roof or touching the shingles? I'm not talking about the q cables between the micro inverters, but the actual solar panel wiring.
Do you have a link to the flashings you used there? I’m struggling to find something similar for sale in the Uk to use on the shingled roof of my log cabin.
Why make drills/holes on roof? Solar panels are better installed on ground. Roofs are engineered/constructed to bewatertight throughout the building lifetime. Drill/hole patches deteriorates (weather/age) as times pass by. Water/rain intrusions will be a more complicated problem if those holes aren't properly sealed, and even if properly sealed, the temp (hot/cold) will make the sealant/patches contract/expand (Strength of Materials, Elongation, Stress & Strain). Water will weaken the building members (timber, rafter, beam, trusses, etc) and so the safety and comfort are possibly at stake? Any solar panel video constructed on ground? Thank you.
So I got some $3 brick clips, took 30 seconds and hung my solar panel on my south facing wall. Ran the cables between the gaps. Time will tell whether this works or not, but I can imagine that it will.
Thanks for your comment. No need to worry about drilling in your roof. I know it seems scary--But if done properly, you won't introduce any leaks. Using a Caulk gun with Roof Sealant will provide plenty of protection. As for a metal roof, you might be using clamps depending on the metal roof type. We have several options that you can review here: www.wholesalesolar.com/shop/racking#s-5
@@unboundsolar Thanks for your reply. That's cool. I would like you please check this cuttingedgepower.com/products/magnetic-solar-panel-mount-bracket-700-lbs-holding-force-mounting-brackets I love it when people have metal roof.
This is 3 years old, but laser lines have been around for quite a bit longer 😉 The person who nails the flashing on can see the nails are central,just run a laser line up the roof and don’t drill extra holes in it 🙄
How strong of a wind will this system hold against? Also, can you show a video on how to connect the Solar edge power optimizer please since I want to install about 10 Solar panels. Thank you.
good video. You installed the solar panel but did not connect the optimizer. You installed the optimizer and then took off the optimizer when you connected the solar panel. Am I missing something? Should you not have shown how the connected the optimizer is connected? Still it's a good video.
Sir instead of drilling holes into your roof looking for trusses all you have to do is Start from the edge of your roof which is called your gable and all of your trusses are typically 24 inches on center but places where it snows a lot it could be different I’m not for sure I’m from down south but find that out start at your gable pull over every 2 feet and mark Every 24 inches top and bottom take blue chalk popular line on every truss and every trust will be straight there typically always meet at the factory unless they are stick built but regardless they’re gonna be straight and that way you can see every trust with your blue chalk line
Hi Greg! Thanks for responding. We recorded this during the winter at our warehouse in Mount Shasta California. Get's pretty cold up here during winter.
Cheers for this, I've been looking for "do it yourself home solar installation" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you ever come across - Piyaarter Uncomplex Preeminence - (do a search on google )? It is a good one of a kind guide for discovering how to generate energy-on-demand minus the normal expense. Ive heard some amazing things about it and my mate got excellent results with it.
Thanks for the video, it helped me figure out some unknowns when installing the kit I purchased from your company. Like others below, it would be nice to see a wiring video. I am having trouble getting help and support from your company, so I am trying to get information and installation instructions from RUclips videos (this is hit and miss and our project is presently stalled).
@@johnle231 Definitely. These panels generate alot of heat. Once as a test i set a panel down on the grass and within 5 minutes the grass was dead where it lay.
I've seen the Iron Ridge system. Pretty cool system. I want to build a portable ground-mount system for off-grid use, about 1 KW plus (3 or 4 large panels). My thought is a pipe frame that sets on top of the ground, elevates the panels, and holds them at the correct angle. I've seen Iron Ridge has a solution for ground mount. To finish off the system an outdoor-rated inverter and battery system. I like those SimpliPhi batteries, but they are $$$.
You have really done a great job, here! But how do you manage a roof top whose orientation isn't linear but oval or curved. I mean how do you position the mounting rails on a curved roof?
Great video so if you have an attic without access. I guess there be a access hole to be cut. When I'm working in Attic running wire and snaking the angle is more flat you wouldn't be able to get to the spot of solar installation. I can at least pull wire across the Attic ceiling I'm not looking for trusses.
If you search for "Ironridge Solar Mounting System" on the internet you can find some technical specifications and wind charts on their website for their different product lines.
If there's no easy access to the attic or underside of the trusses, are there stud finders (or equivalent) that can locate them without having to physically look on the underside of the roof? Also, in areas with higher winds or heavier snow loads, would a system like this still be suitable?
Good question, we're not sure of an easy way to find the trusses without spotting from behind. A stud finder may work, however the thickness of the shingles may make this a bit inaccurate. Looking at the eave of the house will usually show you where these trusses can be as well, as they will normally extend out 2-3 feet which creates the eave. This racking system is suitable for high winds and high snow loads. In areas that increased wind or snow load is required beyond the pre-stamped engineering, IronRidge can be helpful in getting special engineering.
What do you do with a exposed fastener metal roof? I can't use the flashing to close to the ridges of the metal. I have furring strips and need the panels to go in landscape orientation. Is it good to put rails vertical or clamp panels on the short side?
Do you guys have a connection with a company that installs solar panels? I’m 17 but looking into trying to start up a business at 18 that installs solar panels for companies I just don’t know yet if most companies already have that figured out.
bro this video is like 3 whole yrs old, but believe me when i say i'm doing a design project for school right now and this video saved my entire life. thank you!
You have to caulk from under the shingle , injection does work but not as good anytime you drill a hole and just caulk it , use your flat bar to hold the shingle up and shoot a quarter sized dollop on the hole and then press the top shingle down and then smooth out the caulk that squeezed out of the hole making a good marriage between the shingles
You don’t know what you are talking about. You do not caulk under shingles.
THANK YOU!! I am watching your videos to prep for an interview for a solar company. I need to learn the terminology and stuff.
I’m a corrections officer and I am so stressed. I wanna new start and to do something hands-on. Wish me luck!
Hope things are going well with your new career.
This panel can put out close to 100 watts ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOqI2yqX0XVrhR2BMJciTWrHJpG8FhJyg when positioned in the appropriate southernly direction, tilted to the optimal angle for your latitude/date, and connected to a higher capacity device than a 500. The built in kickstand angle is a fixed at 50 degrees. Up to 20% more power can be output by selecting the actual date and latitude optimal angle.The 500 will only input 3.5A maximum at 18 volts for 63 watts. Some of the excess power from the panel can be fed into a USB battery bank, charged directly from the panel while also charging a 500. This will allow you to harvest as much as 63 + 15 = 78 watts.If this panel is used to charge a larger device, such as the power station, then its full output potential can be realized.
The video states the rails are 35.5 inches apart because the mounting holes on the back of the panels are that distance apart. However, I didn't see the end clamps or the mid clamps or any hardware used to attach to the mounting holes. Are the panels attached to the rails through the mounting holes or is it just attached by the friction of the clamps. If the mounting holes aren't used, then is the spacing of the rails really relevant? What if they are 30 inches or 40 inches apart instead of 35.5 inches. Video should have shown a close up view of what the clamps look like and how they are attached.
The panels are engineered to be fastened and supported at the mounting hole locations. You are not using the holes, but using them as a guide to determine where to clamp. Doesn't need to be exact. But these instructions prevent users from choosing bad mounting patterns.
Close ups would be appreciated...
Suppose you're putting the long side of the panels parallel to.the ground. Can you run the rails along the roof and mount at the short side of the panels?
Or drill the pilot hole under the shingle. Less chance of leakage vs drilling where you drilled.
Fantastic, professional, easy to understand and VERY thorough! Great job!
And just out of curiosity: how COLD was it in that room?? You couldn’t tell by your extremely professional presentation, but I did happen to see your breath on numerous occasions! Haha
ditto
Yeah looks like he was probably freezing his arse off. Did well despite it!
That guy was very good, learned what I needed!!!!! ONLY QUESTION: What did the 35.5" measurement on back of panels have to do with rail placement?? Appeared not significant since not using those holes on the back of PV panels.
Really good overview of the panel and racking system install. Do you have a follow on video that shows the wiring from panels to meter?
How about a video on doing the micro inverters to junction box on the roof and then junction boxes down to the combiner box.
Very good instructions step. By step , good job Jeremy
How do you run the cables into your house without it looking like a mess? Especially the ground wire. Do you just run it off the side of your roof, or make another hole in the roof and run it through the attic?
@2:52 Letting the tape measure wind back at full speed is how you ruin a tape measure. It causes the foot at the end of the tape to stress, and as a result, can cause measurements to be off before it finally breaks.
Let it wind back will you have an inch or so, then wind it in slowly. Jeremy (the host) does this several times, and you can hear it in the video. Take good care of your tools and they will last a lifetime. Do things like this, and the end of the tape will break and it will be time to buy a new tape measure.
Suggest a view up close of fasteners into rails. Also, did you address final tightening of rail to flashing mount bolt prior to panel placement?
Couldn't even give him a heated building to do this in....
That would be too easy then :) . Jeremy likes the challenge.
@@unboundsolar No, just no. People do not like freezing on camera. They do not do a good job when they are freezing
I think the lights behind the camera keep him pretty warm
There are several components to this topic . One plan I discovered which successfully combines these is the Ewans energy roadmap (google it if you're interested) without a doubt the most helpful resource i've heard of. Check out the amazing info .
Nice catch
Just bought our system today! Very exciting!
That exciting news Matt! Looking forward to seeing your installation video/photos :) - Here are some other customer installations: www.wholesalesolar.com/customer-showcase
There you have it folks, no need to plug any panels in. Nicolas Tesla would be proud to learn his wireless electricity transmission is finally a complete success.
Great video with a very thorough explanation. One question: How can I do a similar installation with a metal roof?
Hi J! Standing seam metal roofs are really easy because the clamp just bolts onto the metal seam, no drilling through the roof. For other types of metal rooftops you typically end up drilling into the sheet metal or the structure underneath there are specific clamps for the different types of roof profiles. here's the clamp product for the standing seam: www.wholesalesolar.com/6990065/sunmodo/racking/sunmodo-1-ez-standing-seam-clamp and here is bolt for most flat mounting surfaces: www.wholesalesolar.com/6999503/snapnrack/racking/snapnrack-metal-roof-base-assembly. Our senior techs can help you further at www.wholesalesolar.com
@@unboundsolar Links don't work, at least not from Thailand.
I got a metal roof too on my mobile home.
@@FoosResearch works for me. Philippines.
I can't believe this valuable information is just here, free, on the Internet.
How do you get under the panels to connect the wires?
Do you have a video for people who are about to race their asphalt shingle roof for solar panel mounts that can be installed by the roofer and properly flashed?
Will a stud finder work to locate those rafters or no?
I wanted to let you know that stud finders often struggle with the additional layer of shingles on the roof. A more reliable method might be to gently tap on the roof with a hammer and listen for the solid sound that indicates a rafter underneath. Once you've located two rafters, you can generally use the same spacing to find the others across the rest of the roof.
Thanks for the time, effort and expense!
Nice job. Instead of a drill bit, you can use a piece of long white electrical wire (like for plugs and lights) and stick it in the whole. It will be easier to spot. My attic doesn't have that much room to move around looking for stuff. It is low and has Hvac stuff up there.
Lmao y’all slow. Just use a hammer
What a well-constructed video presentation. Well done. So interesting and informative.
If I have a 12 pitch roof do I need to change the pitch of the array to be closer to 36 degrees
Glad he used those Nitrile gloves. Really saved his life! And the harness too! Best video ever!!
🤣
And I’m sure you wear no gloves, then dig in your nose afterwards. Yep 😂
not sure why it is necessary to be within 2-3 inches of the bolt holes on the panel if you are not actually using them for mounting.
I don't think he's saying 2 to 3 in of the bolt holes on a panel, I think he's saying 2 to 3 in to the edge of the Iron ridge rack. That will leave space for the grounding lug.
But on the other hand, mounting the panels within a couple inches of the panel mount holes will prevent any excessive cantilevering.
He mentions that the final flashing will cover any holes you made within that 2-3"
God bless you. This is not the kind of roof mostly used in my country, but the tips have helped to give me an idea on what to do.👍
Guys I am new to woodworking business and thanks to *WoodBlueprints. Com* that helps to learn more then 12000 woodworking shed plans
gOD bless for sure, without our savior then this world would never be possible.
Thanks very informative, bythe way what size of earthing wire is required for size of Installation
How do you adjust the panel angle if the roof is a little lower slope than you need? Do you have longer flashing attachments to raise the top of the panel up?
Wouldn't it have been easier to measure from the inside first so you wouldn't have to put a hole in the roof?
You can use power tools for bolting flashing. It's actually safer with torque control
Stud finders with deep scan doesn't work? How about thermal? Some roof attics aren't accessible.
In my opinion it's best to dispense with mounting solar panels on the roof and put them on the ground instead. One problem with putting them on the roof is they may not be lined up the correct direction to effectively collect the sunlight. I would consider buying tilt mounts from a solar panel equipment dealer and using them as ground mounts which can be moved around as desired to get the panels facing the right direction.
They are more likely to be oriented correctly on the ground. You can move the mounts, you cant move your house.
Would probably be most ideal (aiming, ease of cleaning/maintenance, etc.) but it's not an option on every house. I live on a small lot so my only real option would be on the roof.
A lot of people dont have the space for it. Also you would need to have those mounts cemented into the ground
Not even an option at my location. I have to go with roof mount, but fortunately my roof is perfectly south-facing, no trees or sources of shade whatsoever (2nd story no trees around at all) and its tilted at 30 degrees. Yes, with ground mount or tilt mounts it would be more efficient to change as the seasons change, but I DO have a budget.
naw, especially in hot places one of the massive benefits of solar on roof is it blocks the sun from heating up the attic. large AC power decrease.
So are all bigger panels, 300-400w the same size? Is there a cheaper way to attach rails to the roof? Also what about a demo for folks who have vaults ceilings with NO loft of direct access from the inside to the back of the outer part of the roof.
Hey. How much do you charge to uninstall 32 panels and install back on the new roof on a two stoy house with new racks and and shims.
Seems like the bottom fastener could to to the eaves instead of drilling holes in the room. The top will have to be drilled but seems like the rail could wrap around or something like that.
what are the trque specs or where can i find them for the hardware?
Excellent presentation. Clear, informative and it looks complete.
JoeB
Good to see how it can be done in the US.
What about installation on mobile homes? We usually don't have an attic.
you have more important things to worry about instead of solar energy if you can only afford a mobile home
Are you filming in cold storage?
Stud finder?
This flashing system is for shingle roofs, what about metal roofs???
Great video, I'm planning on doing a small solar set up myself on my roof. I'll be working with a metal roof
Buy lots of molybdenum magnets!
nice video went to your website to buy, but, your not interested in selling just that I spent a month learning about solar and have all I need but a roof mounting system I did want to look at your all-inclusive 2-phase hybrid controller/inverter when I expand
How do i wire 11 solar panels, I have 190w panels and I have 80a charge controller
how does it connect to the house electrical.
I think via battery banks. But depending on your jurisdiction you might be required to get a qualified person to do that part of the install.
With cables and a solar inverter
Good day sir, I have a question what causes the capacity of solar panels to be lost after installation like me an my team installed 270w/30v panel 12 of them but all we get is half the energy down the charge controller that is 1455w the rest is lost
First and foremost, this is not necessarily indicative of problem and you should not expect to see max output at all times. There can be a variety of reasons a PV systems array doesn’t produce what the array is rated for, at any given time. For instance, the system design itself will affect behavior. Most modern systems use multi-stage smart PV chargers. These chargers will throttle back and provide less and less current as the batteries near a full state of charge. Battery chemistry can further drive this behavior. This is wholly to the benefit of the batteries and helps extend their service life. Other factors such as weather, shading from trees and other obstructions, even mounting angle of the panels will drastically affect their output. Age of the modules should also be considered, as they lose roughly 0.5% of their output every year.
What do you mean by "engineering plans we provide"? I used the design tool on your ironridge website, but I had to buy from a vendor since you don't sell directly, and they don't provide any help at all. I thought your design tool would tell me exactly where to put the Flashfoot2, how far apart, etc but it really doesn't. Also, the design tool doesn't "lock" the design to rafter width. Yes, it adjusts to tell you how many flashfoots to buy in order to meet load bearing specifications, but it doesn't necessarily mean they line up with my rafters. I selected 6 ft apart, which is within the load bearing specs for the XR100, but now I see I will miss rafters as they are set at 16 inches. That sucks. You should have a read flag when this happens, I already ordered everything and I really need to order more flashfoots or get up in my attic and install support boards under the rafters where my spacing will be off....
Once you get this up, what do you do to get AC electricity?
Connect the panel(s) to a solar inverter, which converts DC to AC.
I'm not finding one model number or part number to lookup this rack system. It's on the market I presume. I like to support products that are represented well but not able in this case.
Very well done and instructive advice.
How would I mount two 100 watt panels to a waterbed?
You'll start by drilling a pilot hole into your waterbed, instead of using a stud finder.
monkey grip 2 x 2.5 tonne ratchet tie down straps together, double wrap and choke the panel along with ur misses to the interior bladder. place the top section of bed back on making sure the gorilla tape is securely fastend to her mouth. make the bed. then call ur mates for a 2 week fishing trip in the Ba hars.
Is there a best practice to prevent the solar panel wires from sagging too close to the roof or touching the shingles? I'm not talking about the q cables between the micro inverters, but the actual solar panel wiring.
Do you have a link to the flashings you used there? I’m struggling to find something similar for sale in the Uk to use on the shingled roof of my log cabin.
How far the rail should be apart from each other?
Why make drills/holes on roof? Solar panels are better installed on ground. Roofs are engineered/constructed to bewatertight throughout the building lifetime. Drill/hole patches deteriorates (weather/age) as times pass by. Water/rain intrusions will be a more complicated problem if those holes aren't properly sealed, and even if properly sealed, the temp (hot/cold) will make the sealant/patches contract/expand (Strength of Materials, Elongation, Stress & Strain). Water will weaken the building members (timber, rafter, beam, trusses, etc) and so the safety and comfort are possibly at stake? Any solar panel video constructed on ground? Thank you.
Wow, that's very nice job... I'm still planning to learn how to install it .
Thank you. Happy new year from Germany 🇩🇪
Great instruction, but can you ship a set for six panels to Thailand? Your links do not work, can you fix them?
So I got some $3 brick clips, took 30 seconds and hung my solar panel on my south facing wall. Ran the cables between the gaps. Time will tell whether this works or not, but I can imagine that it will.
Hope you don't have strong winds where you are... did you use any fastener?
Any videos doing this on a flat surface?
Great video and explanation. I don't like the idea of drilling the roof. Do you have different mount systems ? and what happen if I have a metal roof?
Thanks for your comment. No need to worry about drilling in your roof. I know it seems scary--But if done properly, you won't introduce any leaks. Using a Caulk gun with Roof Sealant will provide plenty of protection. As for a metal roof, you might be using clamps depending on the metal roof type. We have several options that you can review here: www.wholesalesolar.com/shop/racking#s-5
@@unboundsolar Thanks for your reply. That's cool. I would like you please check this cuttingedgepower.com/products/magnetic-solar-panel-mount-bracket-700-lbs-holding-force-mounting-brackets I love it when people have metal roof.
This is 3 years old, but laser lines have been around for quite a bit longer 😉
The person who nails the flashing on can see the nails are central,just run a laser line up the roof and don’t drill extra holes in it 🙄
How strong of a wind will this system hold against?
Also, can you show a video on how to connect the Solar edge power optimizer please since I want to install about 10 Solar panels. Thank you.
good video. You installed the solar panel but did not connect the optimizer. You installed the optimizer and then took off the optimizer when you connected the solar panel. Am I missing something? Should you not have shown how the connected the optimizer is connected? Still it's a good video.
Sir instead of drilling holes into your roof looking for trusses all you have to do is Start from the edge of your roof which is called your gable and all of your trusses are typically 24 inches on center but places where it snows a lot it could be different I’m not for sure I’m from down south but find that out start at your gable pull over every 2 feet and mark Every 24 inches top and bottom take blue chalk popular line on every truss and every trust will be straight there typically always meet at the factory unless they are stick built but regardless they’re gonna be straight and that way you can see every trust with your blue chalk line
Why can’t you use stud finder ?
When you said "how", steam came out of your mouth
Hi Greg! Thanks for responding. We recorded this during the winter at our warehouse in Mount Shasta California. Get's pretty cold up here during winter.
Cheers for this, I've been looking for "do it yourself home solar installation" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you ever come across - Piyaarter Uncomplex Preeminence - (do a search on google )?
It is a good one of a kind guide for discovering how to generate energy-on-demand minus the normal expense. Ive heard some amazing things about it and my mate got excellent results with it.
I have a tiled roof the tiles are rectangular how do you add flashing …do the tiles need to be removed permanently?
No flashings on tile roof. You remove tile and fasten a tile hook to the rafters
what about regualar snap and rack.. L-Feet, adjustable legs?... this installation seems time consuming
Would a stud finder work?
Jeremy! You didn't hook up the PV wiring!! Hard to reach when panel is laid down...
Good video and easy to follow instructions. Thank you
No problem! Anytime. You can always visit our website at www.wholesalesolar.com to learn more about DIY solar and contact our techs.
Wouldn't a stud finder work?
Drill from inside out first. No need to make an unnecessary hole. I just use 4x L brackets to attach solar panels to roof. Easy , cheap, quick.
No rails?
@@Gary-ee3kq rails are for fails.
Thanks for the video, it helped me figure out some unknowns when installing the kit I purchased from your company. Like others below, it would be nice to see a wiring video. I am having trouble getting help and support from your company, so I am trying to get information and installation instructions from RUclips videos (this is hit and miss and our project is presently stalled).
There's code? I was just going to glue it on the roof. 😄
Don’t glue it. Elevate for airflow to cool panels. Run cool, produce more
@@johnle231 Definitely. These panels generate alot of heat. Once as a test i set a panel down on the grass and within 5 minutes the grass was dead where it lay.
@@WesProphecy2032
Wow now that’s hot
overly complicated, expensive, and too much roof activity, just buy Z brackets. thats all .
I've seen the Iron Ridge system. Pretty cool system. I want to build a portable ground-mount system for off-grid use, about 1 KW plus (3 or 4 large panels). My thought is a pipe frame that sets on top of the ground, elevates the panels, and holds them at the correct angle. I've seen Iron Ridge has a solution for ground mount. To finish off the system an outdoor-rated inverter and battery system. I like those SimpliPhi batteries, but they are $$$.
You have really done a great job, here! But how do you manage a roof top whose orientation isn't linear but oval or curved. I mean how do you position the mounting rails on a curved roof?
Get curved arrays
Great video so if you have an attic without access. I guess there be a access hole to be cut. When I'm working in Attic running wire and snaking the angle is more flat you wouldn't be able to get to the spot of solar installation. I can at least pull wire across the Attic ceiling I'm not looking for trusses.
Hi David! If rafter access isn't possible, you can use this simple rafter finder tool: www.chiptoolz.com/
Are the screws stainless so they don't react with steel?
Very nice explanation sir. Salute.
Studfinder to locate the roof truss??🤔
Could you please determine the strength of this mount?
If you search for "Ironridge Solar Mounting System" on the internet you can find some technical specifications and wind charts on their website for their different product lines.
If there's no easy access to the attic or underside of the trusses, are there stud finders (or equivalent) that can locate them without having to physically look on the underside of the roof? Also, in areas with higher winds or heavier snow loads, would a system like this still be suitable?
Good question, we're not sure of an easy way to find the trusses without spotting from behind. A stud finder may work, however the thickness of the shingles may make this a bit inaccurate. Looking at the eave of the house will usually show you where these trusses can be as well, as they will normally extend out 2-3 feet which creates the eave.
This racking system is suitable for high winds and high snow loads. In areas that increased wind or snow load is required beyond the pre-stamped engineering, IronRidge can be helpful in getting special engineering.
Just hit it with an hammer you can feel when you hit the raptor
Thermal camera maybe?
@@2awesome292 Chiptoolz has a great tool to find the rafters
See where trusses end under fascia?
What do you do with a exposed fastener metal roof? I can't use the flashing to close to the ridges of the metal. I have furring strips and need the panels to go in landscape orientation. Is it good to put rails vertical or clamp panels on the short side?
Excellent video , many thanks for that 😀
Can anyone tell me here how to connect solar installer. For solar permit design?
I enjoyed the video short of the use of the sealant
solar panel
Get a Zircon multi scanner x85, it will scan through multiple layers of shingles and find the rafter center, none of this drill and guess.
If you mount an array, how often do I have to install the roof mounts? Every panel? Every other panel?
Hi, M22W64. You're going to place the flashing (what attaches the rails to the roof) every 4 feet in most roof mount applications. Hope that helps.
@@unboundsolar great! Thank you!
What if the truss is steel
This lag bolt pullout strength is about 10,000 lbs, enough to rip the house from the bottom plate.
Do you guys have a connection with a company that installs solar panels? I’m 17 but looking into trying to start up a business at 18 that installs solar panels for companies I just don’t know yet if most companies already have that figured out.
It would have been better if the camera zoom closer and pan to the activity area near your hands as you explain the process. Great video anyway
Noticed rail centres are'nt critical with this fixing system as you are'nt using the hole fixings in the panels anyway
Where you in a walk-in freezer or something?