I think another good approach would be to glue some veneer to the bed of the spoke shave. That way you have more clearance from the adjusters, the blade has better friction and fitment, and the mouth is made a little bit tighter.
For many years I have kept a pair permanently set up in a similar way. I glued a piece of shim steel to the bed [I think it was 25/30 thou or thereabouts] which, as you say, raises it to clear the adjusters but also has the effect of closing the throat of the spokeshave significantly. I also addressed the keyhole in the cap. As manufactured, the leading edge of the cap is often quite a way from the blade edge, and using the shim will only increase this. I lengthened the smaller half of the 'keyhole' to allow the cap to move forward and contact the blade properly. It does take time to do right, but you only need to do it once
Really great video thanks Chris. Enjoyed the detail. Helped a lot especially on a 60's Record spoke shave (flat and round) where the bed and the irons were not flat. The emphasis on flattening BOTH sides of the blade and ensuring the bed is flat worked great. One issue I continue to have is when taking a shaving, the shavings comes up through the mouth at a weird overly big angle (120 degrees) that curl up and in front of the leading edge and under and back up (even when holding firm pressure on the front of the mouth) you basically end up with shavings curled around the front lip which constantly trip you up. How do you get the angle of the shaving to come up more like it is supposed to be (like a well set up no. 4 plane) where the shaving are more or less 90 degrees straight up off the cap iron and out of the way? The shaving in this case doesn't even come near the cap iron it just immediately curls up and around the front lip. Thanks for any tips you might have.
Thanks for watching and comment. Pleased to hear your spokeshaves work better. Interesting when someone asks a question about using a tool that you use regularly you can’t explain because you just do it without thinking. I’ve just been in the garage to test my spokeshaves to replicate the problem. Yes after a couple of attempts I did get a shaving to curl up and wrap itself around the mouth. Most of the time the shaving just rolled up in front of the spokeshave and didn’t cause a problem. Might be different with particular types of wood. Try cutting at a slight angle say 15 to 20 degrees the shaving then curls to the side and out of the way. Let me know how you get on. 👍
It may sound a bit brutal, but if you are used to working with metal, you can save a lot of time flattening the blade by the judicious use of a lightly domed hammer and a clean faced steel block before lapping the blade. The blades suffer in manufacture because, it was presumably cheaper to punch out the holes rather than drilling or cutting. Punching stretches and stresses the metal in some areas more than others.
Great video! I really like all the detail and infomation you are sharing. I wish you would get a better microphone though, because I am having a really hard time hearing some of the things you're saying without having the volume at a hight where the static noise is unbareable
Thanks for watching and comment. Sorry for the sound issues I only have my phone to make videos I know this is not ideal . I am just sharing what I’ve learned over a lifetime of woodworking as best I can without investing in recording equipment ect.👍
That makes sense and I am very grateful for you sharing your experiences. Perhapsh one day you will stumble upton a cheap, but decent microphone and consider upgrading. I know that I and probably many more would appretiate it a lot. Thanks for sharing in whatever way you can! @@chrisfinn1162
@@chrisfinn1162 - I find the sound quality is just fine. I watch the videos on my laptop with headphones. I suspect the 'static noise' the above commenter is referring to is on his side -- or inside his head :-)
Would an epoxy on the bed of the spokeshave solve some problems? The epoxy ( something like Bondo body filler) could either be filed flat after it dried or a flat surface could be place on the epoxy while it dries. Perhaps the blade itself could be used as a flat surface to clamp on drying epoxy if it were protected in some way (wax paper perhaps). This approach would with a bit of refinement give a flat bed and help to close up the mouth. It might also correct the problem with the two adjusters as the blade would be raised up a little to provide clearance. So perhaps three problems solved with epoxy on the bed.
Thanks for watching and comment. It probably could be made to work,I’m not a fan of filler for this purpose I see it as a temporary fix,after I posted this video I noticed someone else on here used epoxy to stick some tin to the bed for the same effect but then painted it which is not ideal,I find that if the two surfaces aren’t steel it affects the friction of the blade to the bed and makes it either slippery or sticky see my video updated on the Veritas which uses plastic shims which for me don’t seem suitable. Thanks for your suggestion it helps everyone to see other possibilities 👍
@@skippylippy547 Thanks for watching and comment. I haven’t used one they are horribly expensive for a spokeshave but looking at how they are constructed I would think they are good it’s whether you can justify the price. 👍
@@chrisfinn1162 LOL! I can't justify the price at all. But I'm leaning towards the "Buy Once, Cry Once" because I've purchased way too many cheap tools that didn't work.
Thanks for this video. I have been shopping for my first spokeshave and I had no idea where to start. I have been gravitating towards a wooden spokeshave kit from Vertas. What do you think of such a product?
Thanks for watching and comment. I haven’t tried making a spokeshave myself. Watching other videos on here it seems to be a comprehensive kit with detailed plans and they seem to work really well. It would be an interesting project and gives you the opportunity to choose a wood of your choice. You would gain a lot of experience with a project like this. Good luck if you decide to make your own and let me know how it goes.👍
Ken Parker has a series updating an old cast spokeshave you might be interested in. Here is the playlist, it's quite thorough; ruclips.net/p/PLZqTWVx9Q6mnKYe3UkvCd9UdVnVl_8ilG&si=lkP2ysiZIzoSF-W4 Enjoying your videos!
Thanks for watching and comment. Yes if you look closely at my video you will see I have ground one side of the blade to try it out on a thicker aftermarket blade. I decided against that method because it meant people looking for new aftermarket blade that are not always available . I was trying to use the original blade which is too thin for this method.👍
That explained the problems very well. Thank you!
Thanks for watching and comment. 👍
I think another good approach would be to glue some veneer to the bed of the spoke shave. That way you have more clearance from the adjusters, the blade has better friction and fitment, and the mouth is made a little bit tighter.
Thanks for watching and comment.👍
For many years I have kept a pair permanently set up in a similar way. I glued a piece of shim steel to the bed [I think it was 25/30 thou or thereabouts] which, as you say, raises it to clear the adjusters but also has the effect of closing the throat of the spokeshave significantly. I also addressed the keyhole in the cap. As manufactured, the leading edge of the cap is often quite a way from the blade edge, and using the shim will only increase this. I lengthened the smaller half of the 'keyhole' to allow the cap to move forward and contact the blade properly. It does take time to do right, but you only need to do it once
@@bigoldgrizzly Thanks for watching and comment. You have a good solution thanks for sharing.👍
A very informative and helpful video . Unfortunately I fell asleep half way through.
Thanks for watching and comment. Funny. A detailed video and a bit boring but worth watching. 👍
Really great video thanks Chris. Enjoyed the detail. Helped a lot especially on a 60's Record spoke shave (flat and round) where the bed and the irons were not flat. The emphasis on flattening BOTH sides of the blade and ensuring the bed is flat worked great.
One issue I continue to have is when taking a shaving, the shavings comes up through the mouth at a weird overly big angle (120 degrees) that curl up and in front of the leading edge and under and back up (even when holding firm pressure on the front of the mouth) you basically end up with shavings curled around the front lip which constantly trip you up.
How do you get the angle of the shaving to come up more like it is supposed to be (like a well set up no. 4 plane) where the shaving are more or less 90 degrees straight up off the cap iron and out of the way? The shaving in this case doesn't even come near the cap iron it just immediately curls up and around the front lip.
Thanks for any tips you might have.
Thanks for watching and comment. Pleased to hear your spokeshaves work better. Interesting when someone asks a question about using a tool that you use regularly you can’t explain because you just do it without thinking. I’ve just been in the garage to test my spokeshaves to replicate the problem. Yes after a couple of attempts I did get a shaving to curl up and wrap itself around the mouth. Most of the time the shaving just rolled up in front of the spokeshave and didn’t cause a problem. Might be different with particular types of wood. Try cutting at a slight angle say 15 to 20 degrees the shaving then curls to the side and out of the way. Let me know how you get on. 👍
It may sound a bit brutal, but if you are used to working with metal, you can save a lot of time flattening the blade by the judicious use of a lightly domed hammer and a clean faced steel block before lapping the blade. The blades suffer in manufacture because, it was presumably cheaper to punch out the holes rather than drilling or cutting. Punching stretches and stresses the metal in some areas more than others.
Great video! I really like all the detail and infomation you are sharing. I wish you would get a better microphone though, because I am having a really hard time hearing some of the things you're saying without having the volume at a hight where the static noise is unbareable
Thanks for watching and comment. Sorry for the sound issues I only have my phone to make videos I know this is not ideal . I am just sharing what I’ve learned over a lifetime of woodworking as best I can without investing in recording equipment ect.👍
That makes sense and I am very grateful for you sharing your experiences. Perhapsh one day you will stumble upton a cheap, but decent microphone and consider upgrading. I know that I and probably many more would appretiate it a lot. Thanks for sharing in whatever way you can! @@chrisfinn1162
@@chrisfinn1162 - I find the sound quality is just fine. I watch the videos on my laptop with headphones. I suspect the 'static noise' the above commenter is referring to is on his side -- or inside his head :-)
@@barkebaat LOL 😂 Thanks for letting me know much appreciated.👍
Would an epoxy on the bed of the spokeshave solve some problems? The epoxy ( something like Bondo body filler) could either be filed flat after it dried or a flat surface could be place on the epoxy while it dries. Perhaps the blade itself could be used as a flat surface to clamp on drying epoxy if it were protected in some way (wax paper perhaps). This approach would with a bit of refinement give a flat bed and help to close up the mouth. It might also correct the problem with the two adjusters as the blade would be raised up a little to provide clearance. So perhaps three problems solved with epoxy on the bed.
Thanks for watching and comment. It probably could be made to work,I’m not a fan of filler for this purpose I see it as a temporary fix,after I posted this video I noticed someone else on here used epoxy to stick some tin to the bed for the same effect but then painted it which is not ideal,I find that if the two surfaces aren’t steel it affects the friction of the blade to the bed and makes it either slippery or sticky see my video updated on the Veritas which uses plastic shims which for me don’t seem suitable. Thanks for your suggestion it helps everyone to see other possibilities 👍
It sounds like the Lie Nielsen Boggs spokeshave is the best???
@@skippylippy547 Thanks for watching and comment. I haven’t used one they are horribly expensive for a spokeshave but looking at how they are constructed I would think they are good it’s whether you can justify the price. 👍
@@chrisfinn1162
LOL! I can't justify the price at all.
But I'm leaning towards the "Buy Once, Cry Once" because I've purchased way too many cheap tools that didn't work.
Thanks for this video. I have been shopping for my first spokeshave and I had no idea where to start. I have been gravitating towards a wooden spokeshave kit from Vertas. What do you think of such a product?
Thanks for watching and comment. I haven’t tried making a spokeshave myself. Watching other videos on here it seems to be a comprehensive kit with detailed plans and they seem to work really well. It would be an interesting project and gives you the opportunity to choose a wood of your choice. You would gain a lot of experience with a project like this. Good luck if you decide to make your own and let me know how it goes.👍
Ken Parker has a series updating an old cast spokeshave you might be interested in. Here is the playlist, it's quite thorough; ruclips.net/p/PLZqTWVx9Q6mnKYe3UkvCd9UdVnVl_8ilG&si=lkP2ysiZIzoSF-W4
Enjoying your videos!
Thanks for watching and comment. Thanks for letting me know I will have a look .👍
Just looked him up.It’s going to take a while to watch it all. About 3 hours at a rough guess.👍
I’ve fast forward through the videos to take a quick look . Interesting solution.👍
Hi I’ve posted a short video that relates to this topic and a look at the Veritas spokeshave which might be helpful.
Could the blade not be hollowed out at the adjuster location.
Thanks for watching and comment. Yes if you look closely at my video you will see I have ground one side of the blade to try it out on a thicker aftermarket blade. I decided against that method because it meant people looking for new aftermarket blade that are not always available . I was trying to use the original blade which is too thin for this method.👍