Well ive just had the most relaxing half hour or so watching you strip and clean this lovely time piece. I have just purchased a 1975 made in great britain version. Runs nice and loud! Looses about 10 mins in 24 hours so probably in need of a service! The regulator is at full + so no room there! I will definatly look at it in a different light now,always liked these tyoes since my grandad showed me the one he had from a boy,used daily as he didnt like a wrist watch on. No idea where it is now but probably in someones drawer crying for care. I have no intention of trying to clean or repair this one,my hands and eyes ar far to old for that type of micro engineering. My radio control trucks and planes are small enough now! Keep it up,these kind of trades are vanishing in our throw away world,my local watchmaker has just retired,now we have one left in our main town,mr phillips was presumably taught by his father as in the window of the shop was a steel ball driven clock made by him,pride of place for some apprentice skills! Derrick.
I saw a website that discussed the later history of Smiths/Ingersoll and described this movement as "designed to be virtually unserviceable." So, congratulations. I have one of these watches branded "Services" keeping good time and will leave it alone for the time being.!
Enjoyed your video like your keeping it simple approach makes it much more interesting, and not as stufy as some watch repair vids, love the old pocket watch, thanks.
Lighter fluid is perfectly fine. Don't listen to anybody that's telling you It doesn't work, it's the same thing. You simply need to make sure you clean it with alcohol after and dry it very well. You can even clean watches with dawn dish, soap, and warm water. All that matters is getting the water off after the cleaning. These instructions are also found in Quite a few Books written by Professional watchmakers
Hello Sir. A few weeks ago, I acquired a 1951 Smiths Empire watch. I paid £15 for it on eBay as a non runner. It was exactly like the watch in your previous video, which I watched over and over to familiarise myself with it. Alas, when it came to putting the two case plates back together, I must have damaged the hairspring, as it no longer sits central in the balance wheel. I will have to admit, this isn't a hobby I could carry on with, because it requires a steady hand, and a lot of patience. I'm glad I attempted it though, and £15 isn't a big deal.
That's great to hear man but I'm sorry to hear that outcome. I have to admit that I've knackered more than my fair share. Keep at it, you'll get there I know 👍
Once I've finished the 2 watches I'm working on, the next one i've got to repair is an Ingersol Triumph. Other than a different colour scheme on the dial, I think it is exactly the same movement inside. Useful to see how the keyless works can go flying! I'll be careful to watch out for that, so I can at least see where it flies too!
As far as I know they'll be the same! Yes certainly watch out for that! I had no excuse, I'd worked on similar movements, but it was recovered ready enough anyways. Best of luck 👍
@@LRWatchRepair It's taken me longer than I thought to get round to this, but I've finally started uploading watch repairs on my other channel. Just done a 1970s Seiko Quartz that had a battery leak causing corrosion problems. Got a smiths pocket watch coming up next. Still haven't got round to the Ingersol Triumph! Here's the link to the Seiko: ruclips.net/video/RE-X35eVA4o/видео.html
I ve noticed most of the newbies on RUclips don't even know the names of watch parts. Fortunately, we ve got Donald De Carle's books with detailed images and text easy to understand. Not chassis but the middle. Please don't use hand-lifting levers to remove the canon pinion otherwise you run the risk of damaging teeth, use stout tweezers instead. ❤
My friend thankyou so much for the tip! I was trying to learn via other people's videos. I'll look those up as I'd really like to do better! Cheers for that also, I do intend to get a proper puller eventually. Thanks for the advice, it's always welcome here
@@LRWatchRepair Hey dude hope you’ve been steadily improving. I’m going pretty deep into this now. No official “schooling” but it’s amazing what you can learn here on RUclips and with books.
I got a tip off an old retired watchmaker that shellight is good for cleaning… works well for me… and you can put it in a jar and put the jar in the ultrasonics I believe…. I’d be worried about alcohol latter when dealing with pallet forks with shellaced in jewels?
Hi, just watched this really good I have 2 of these one is smiths but identical needs new crystal i'm unsure of the size to get any advice please, Karl.
Hi Karl, There are a few sizing guide videos on RUclips, but in my experience it's best to measure first then buy, You'll see that the crystals, being acrylic, are actually pretty cheap, so if you get the wrong size it isn't show stopping, can go for some trial and error then
@@LRWatchRepair Thanks for replying bought another yest just cos it had the outer case( i know mug, but they like morris minors take a lot to stop them)only £12.50 working so why not thanks again. Karl.
Have you noticed that the hairspring is severly out of place / damaged at 31:58? Judging from the beginning of the video it wasn't like that before the disassembly. That means you either damaged the hairspring during your service or at least assembled it incorrectly. Either way this is definitely something you should take care of. Otherwise the watch won't be able to keep time at all. The hairspring should look like concentric circles evenly spaced.
I have my grandfather’s Ingersoll Trump watch from the 1930’s that didn’t work, would not wind. I decided to take it apart, then after launching the spring across the room, found this video. I am at the 18:00 minute mark in reassembly, but the gear train is slightly different. The gears are capped, not open at the top, not allowing the top gear to be simply dropped into place. Any suggestions?
I'm afraid without looking myself I may not be of much use, my advice is to take plenty photos as you go to jog your memory potentially in the future. This being said, there are reference assembly manuals online for lots of movements, I can happily have a look at photos if you can share?
I reassembled my Ingersoll Trump watch, everything looked to be in their correct mounts. The balance spring, however, doesn't look like it is correctly coiled. The stem now seems to wind now, where previously it didn't move. The watch still doesn't work, so I suspect the balance spring has something to do with that. Is there an email address I can use to send a pic of the balance spring should I decide to disassemble it again?@@LRWatchRepair
@garykerkstra1067 I agree with you from the description here. Those hairsprings are fantastically sensitive so if it isn't sitting right it's a non starter. That being said, there are replacements out there! Channel email is in the homepage: Lewisranshaw918@gmail.com Cheers
A brilliant video ! I purchased an ingersol at the local car boot £3, runs well but loses 1 minute per hour. I have tried the F S adjustment. Any suggestions please ? Great video really helpful. Thank you for showing it . Kind regards.
So it could just be a case of needing a service bud, If its still slow after you mate have a more significant issue on your hands, you could be needing to adjust the main spring. It's always best to do the easiest thing first, id get it serviced 👍🤞
Smiths is still going, making mainly car instruments a mere shadow of its pre-EU might where every British and commonwealth made car had Smith's instruments, Smiths and Lucas were absolute global giants then we joined the EEC and closed down the very cushty commonwealth closed shop trading bloc. I seem to remember Smiths Empire were the exported ones and the named Smiths like the Triumph's were for the home market. Certainly Empires were quite common in Australia and Canada and a bit of grey marketry of watches crossing the border into the US as they were very well regarded timepieces. Those were the days when Made in Gt Britain was seen as the ultimate mark of quality, crafted not made was the slogan of those days with workers putting in a bit extra for their firm...
Noticed you were picking up the screws with a magnetized screwdriver. That's really bad. You want no part of the watch magnetized at all. You should buy a degauss machine online. They're about $10-$15. No need for a fancy one. Demagnetize your tools, and then do the same to the movement once you're done. You can uses apps on your phone to check for a magnetized movement. I've found that almost all of these dollar watch movements are heavily magnetized, including the cases. Demagnetizing them makes them run infinitely better, and fixes many issues.
@@LRWatchRepair Just test it with your phone! It's easy to do. Open the app, set the watch on it. Then spin it slowly. You might get a negative reading, this is the magnets repelling each other. Spin the watch slowly, & you'll see it spike. That means you need to demagnetize it. The cheap blue one from "a store named after a river" works fine. It's how you use it. Took me a second to figure out. Set the watch on the demagnetizer directly. Turn it on, & while holding the button, slowly lift the watch straight up until your arm is fully extended. Turn the watch around 180 degrees, & repeat. That should do it!
@@LRWatchRepair Some stubborn watches may take 2-4 cycles. Just check with your phone app. The app is for a non-apple cellular device. It's called "Magnetometer"
Ingersoll was always a tricky brand as there were two companies, quite often during Britain's imperial days, the only way a non commonwealth company could get into the closed shop trading bloc was to set up business in the UK, Ever Ready batteries was one example, Ford UK another, General Motors simply got round much of this buying up ailing Vauxhall but in those days the only oil game in town was London and the only way to buy oil was in pounds so ships would arrive laden with goods, pounds exchanged and then a tanker of oil bought and sailed home again all managed from the Port of London and a vast complicated but efficient operation that astonished the world. Hence why there was Ingersoll London and Ingersoll not London.
These watches are actually more difficult than the more expensive ones with multiple Bridges, single plate movements are very tricky to get all the wheel pivots back in place. A pin lever Timex is actually more difficult to service or near impossible compared to say a Rolex from the 50s or 60s.
Watching you vibro clean the watch parts it struck me that there was far too much leeway for tiny parts to dissapear out the sides§§11 of the humungous basket you used perhaps 3/4 watch makers baskets would serve you better? just a thought :)
You were absolutely right Peter. What I didn't show was how meticulous I was in removing the parts! I didn't know these baskets were a thing but I'll certainly be looking into them! Thankyou very much! 😊
the balance assembly whole and the pallet forks SHOULD NOT go in the ultrasonic cleaner as the shellac that holds them on will be removed. Causing the pallet jewels and the hairspring to fall off, and possibly the impulse jewel.
It's a pin pallet (roskopf) there is no pallet stones but an ultra sonic is fine you don't put pallets with jewels or a balance complete in anything stronger like iso or benzine as it erodes the shellac holding the jewels in place
@@LRWatchRepair If you do jeweled movements, use hexane on the pallet fork and balance assembly. It's the same as One Dip, but far cheaper. I realize this is an old video, so hopefully some other helpful person has told you this. You can safely use naptha\benzine\lighter fluid on the shellac parts, but no ultra sonic or alcohol.
How long have you been doing this? Also just noticed the comment below about the glow-in-the-dark dials - Bill is right, even if they no longer glow they are still radioactive. The phosphor that gives the glow degrades and stops glowing, but the radioactive part (the radium) that powers it will be dangerous for around 1600 years.
@@LRWatchRepair Similar here - about 4 years now. Started off with the smith's movements. I still like them and have a few (from 1920's to 1980's) Look up WristWatch Revival - been watching his lately and learned a bit. Also, C S Spinner Watch Restorations is good. Both are a bit beyond my level but still learn a lot.
I am affraid, that by Your nice Watch is the hair spring bend, or - let´s say - "tangled". You need to dismout once more the complete balance, remove the hair spring coil, and (use two fine tweezers) and try to straight it. The main thing is - no one thread of the hair should touch the other one ! PLease, look on the Lessons on YT, f.e. the best is Mark Lovick.... Good Luck, Tom
Hi Tom, That's a great observation, I think you're absolutely correct. I'm all honestly I did attempt to rectify but was worried I was doing more harm than good! I'll certainly keep that in mind if I should have this issue in the future. Thanks again!
@@LRWatchRepair Yeah, You can guess how i understand Your concerns.... 🙂, well, i am sure, that this movements, or its spare parts (f.e. NOS parts - and especially the balance staff looks very similar to the Smiths brand watches from that era..) You can find on e-bay, maybe as a complete balance staff, and its change to fix the watch shall be very easy for You. But so as so - i have a spare time now, maybe i can advice You. The hairspring straithening does looks sometimes more complicated as its really is... On my Watchmaking beginning times (1986) i have learn from old and experience watchmaker, to use for those works on balance spring - except a very GOOD magnifying glass, two very sharp and fine tweezers - a clean, white sheet of hard paper, where i drew schematicaly the coil - as its should be in original - (thats mean - the right amount of threads, the diameter, and position of the "jewel" and of the connection point on the end of the spring). The damagged spiral hair spring i placed next to the drawing, and straight it in two main steps: 1 - make it "an open thread" - thats mean, with a needle, holding the center with a pegwood, i was "driving" with the needle between the threadet wirde from the brass center to the end fixing point, and trying, that each individual turn or thread is "seaparated" (should NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER) - then look on such a coil and point with a red marker, where is the "wire" bend - and correct it - HOLDING THE POINT IN A TWEEZER AND SIMPLY AND CAREFULLY STRAIGHT/STROKE THE WIRE WITH THE NEEDLE. 2 - make it "flat" - thats mean, trying, that the coil is COMPLETELY touching the paper, where is lying - if not - point with a green marker those points, where the wire rises from the surface - AND HOLD THE WIRE WITH TWO TWEEZERS BEFORE AND BEHIND ITS BENDING POINT - AND TURN THE TWEEZER BEHIND TO THE PAPER/FLATNESS. After You´ll fix the coil of the hair spring, notice, that the location the coil on balance wheel shall guaranteed, that the escape wheel bearing + pallet fork bearing + the balance output controll jewel ("nose") - are in one line (depend the beat error on this rule). You will see, that to fix the balance spring coil - ist not a tragedy... I hope, i am not disturbing with my loooong writing, well finally i was trying only to help "on a long distance" 🙂 Good luck a have a lot of succesfull watchmakers projects !!!!! T.
My friend, Thankyou so much for your concise response and you're incredibly clear instructions on how to straighten a hair spring! I really appreciate you taking the time to inform me of that 😊 I look forward to further help and advice from you as I carry on this journey. Thanks mate
These watches aren't made to be disassembled like this. The idea with these is that it is serviceable by removing the basics (hands face, loose wheels, etc) but not the main bridge. It can be cleaned in alcohol, oiled LIGHTLY, then will run great! there are no jewels, so no need to disassemble.
@LR Watch Repair nah, it's great! I was in Yorkshire some years ago when my daughter was living there, and her friends said I had the most amazing accent...and I'm thinking I just have a boring American one. Anyway I think it's great what you're doing. I'm about two years into it myself. Learning a lot, and buying tools, and having a ton of fun. But I will warn you: vintage wrist watches with the non-shock setting balance jewels...have the smallest most diabolical screws I've ever seen...and lost...I hates them. :'D
Ahh nice one. Well I was born and bred in Lincolnshire so not a million miles off! Always the way, love the accents! That's great to know I'm not along here! Seeming vertical learning curve... My next foe is a cheap mechanical Rotary luckily with the incabloc shock settings. It's gonna get very small, very quick!
Pin pallets movements are an amazing feat of engineering its a shame most of us watchmakers look down on them as there not very pretty i first worked on these as a kid in my dads workshop before he trusted me with any customers timepieces. I have to admit i cringed a bit when i seen you dabbing the excess oil with a q tip! Please get some rodico (it also helps with those pesky flying springs in the keyless works) ive subbed looking forward to seeing you progress good luck my friend!
Well ive just had the most relaxing half hour or so watching you strip and clean this lovely time piece. I have just purchased a 1975 made in great britain version. Runs nice and loud! Looses about 10 mins in 24 hours so probably in need of a service! The regulator is at full + so no room there! I will definatly look at it in a different light now,always liked these tyoes since my grandad showed me the one he had from a boy,used daily as he didnt like a wrist watch on. No idea where it is now but probably in someones drawer crying for care. I have no intention of trying to clean or repair this one,my hands and eyes ar far to old for that type of micro engineering. My radio control trucks and planes are small enough now! Keep it up,these kind of trades are vanishing in our throw away world,my local watchmaker has just retired,now we have one left in our main town,mr phillips was presumably taught by his father as in the window of the shop was a steel ball driven clock made by him,pride of place for some apprentice skills!
Derrick.
I saw a website that discussed the later history of Smiths/Ingersoll and described this movement as "designed to be virtually unserviceable." So, congratulations. I have one of these watches branded "Services" keeping good time and will leave it alone for the time being.!
Enjoyed your video like your keeping it simple approach makes it much more interesting, and not as stufy as some watch repair vids, love the old pocket watch, thanks.
I use lighter fluid to clean with. Some people say that is a a bad idea , but it is what I have. I'm looking for another idea but I don't have one.
It does the job! 99% isopropanol is great and doesn't eat most plastics and rubbers. It does, however, attack paintwork
Lighter fluid is fine - just flammable. Don't put that or isopropanol in the ultrasonic though!
Lighter fluid is perfectly fine. Don't listen to anybody that's telling you It doesn't work, it's the same thing. You simply need to make sure you clean it with alcohol after and dry it very well. You can even clean watches with dawn dish, soap, and warm water. All that matters is getting the water off after the cleaning. These instructions are also found in Quite a few Books written by Professional watchmakers
Yeah I plan to use Naphtha I got at the hardware store. I think that’s what it’s called.
Hello Sir. A few weeks ago, I acquired a 1951 Smiths Empire watch. I paid £15 for it on eBay as a non runner. It was exactly like the watch in your previous video, which I watched over and over to familiarise myself with it. Alas, when it came to putting the two case plates back together, I must have damaged the hairspring, as it no longer sits central in the balance wheel. I will have to admit, this isn't a hobby I could carry on with, because it requires a steady hand, and a lot of patience. I'm glad I attempted it though, and £15 isn't a big deal.
That's great to hear man but I'm sorry to hear that outcome.
I have to admit that I've knackered more than my fair share.
Keep at it, you'll get there I know 👍
Once I've finished the 2 watches I'm working on, the next one i've got to repair is an Ingersol Triumph. Other than a different colour scheme on the dial, I think it is exactly the same movement inside. Useful to see how the keyless works can go flying! I'll be careful to watch out for that, so I can at least see where it flies too!
As far as I know they'll be the same! Yes certainly watch out for that! I had no excuse, I'd worked on similar movements, but it was recovered ready enough anyways.
Best of luck 👍
@@LRWatchRepair If i can find a charger for my camera, I'll film it and we can compare
@Nathan Lucas you'll have to! I'd love to see that
@@LRWatchRepair It's taken me longer than I thought to get round to this, but I've finally started uploading watch repairs on my other channel. Just done a 1970s Seiko Quartz that had a battery leak causing corrosion problems. Got a smiths pocket watch coming up next. Still haven't got round to the Ingersol Triumph! Here's the link to the Seiko: ruclips.net/video/RE-X35eVA4o/видео.html
@nathanlucas6465 great to see!
I is for Ingersoll. The watch we all use. We traded our Elgin's to buy us more booze.
@33.09 the hair-spring is stuck together - magnetized? or more gunk?
I ve noticed most of the newbies on RUclips don't even know the names of watch parts. Fortunately, we ve got Donald De Carle's books with detailed images and text easy to understand. Not chassis but the middle. Please don't use hand-lifting levers to remove the canon pinion otherwise you run the risk of damaging teeth, use stout tweezers instead. ❤
My friend thankyou so much for the tip! I was trying to learn via other people's videos.
I'll look those up as I'd really like to do better!
Cheers for that also, I do intend to get a proper puller eventually.
Thanks for the advice, it's always welcome here
@@LRWatchRepair
Anyway, it is always interesting to watch newbies' repairs. Don't give up, keep on doing , and everything will be just fine! 👍
Cheers for the motivation!
I'm really enjoying the hobby though at this point I do feel somewhat bad for my victims! I'll get there 👍
@@LRWatchRepair Hey dude hope you’ve been steadily improving. I’m going pretty deep into this now. No official “schooling” but it’s amazing what you can learn here on RUclips and with books.
I got a tip off an old retired watchmaker that shellight is good for cleaning… works well for me… and you can put it in a jar and put the jar in the ultrasonics I believe…. I’d be worried about alcohol latter when dealing with pallet forks with shellaced in jewels?
That's a great idea! Cheers for the tip
Hi, just watched this really good I have 2 of these one is smiths but identical needs new crystal i'm unsure of the size to get any advice please, Karl.
Hi Karl,
There are a few sizing guide videos on RUclips, but in my experience it's best to measure first then buy,
You'll see that the crystals, being acrylic, are actually pretty cheap, so if you get the wrong size it isn't show stopping, can go for some trial and error then
@@LRWatchRepair Thanks for replying bought another yest just cos it had the outer case( i know mug, but they like morris minors take a lot to stop them)only £12.50 working so why not thanks again. Karl.
Have you noticed that the hairspring is severly out of place / damaged at 31:58? Judging from the beginning of the video it wasn't like that before the disassembly. That means you either damaged the hairspring during your service or at least assembled it incorrectly.
Either way this is definitely something you should take care of. Otherwise the watch won't be able to keep time at all.
The hairspring should look like concentric circles evenly spaced.
I have my grandfather’s Ingersoll Trump watch from the 1930’s that didn’t work, would not wind. I decided to take it apart, then after launching the spring across the room, found this video. I am at the 18:00 minute mark in reassembly, but the gear train is slightly different. The gears are capped, not open at the top, not allowing the top gear to be simply dropped into place. Any suggestions?
I'm afraid without looking myself I may not be of much use, my advice is to take plenty photos as you go to jog your memory potentially in the future.
This being said, there are reference assembly manuals online for lots of movements, I can happily have a look at photos if you can share?
I reassembled my Ingersoll Trump watch, everything looked to be in their correct mounts. The balance spring, however, doesn't look like it is correctly coiled. The stem now seems to wind now, where previously it didn't move. The watch still doesn't work, so I suspect the balance spring has something to do with that. Is there an email address I can use to send a pic of the balance spring should I decide to disassemble it again?@@LRWatchRepair
@garykerkstra1067 I agree with you from the description here.
Those hairsprings are fantastically sensitive so if it isn't sitting right it's a non starter.
That being said, there are replacements out there!
Channel email is in the homepage: Lewisranshaw918@gmail.com
Cheers
Canon pinion remover.....works wonders! 😉
A brilliant video ! I purchased an ingersol at the local car boot £3, runs well but loses 1 minute per hour. I have tried the F S adjustment. Any suggestions please ? Great video really helpful. Thank you for showing it . Kind regards.
So it could just be a case of needing a service bud,
If its still slow after you mate have a more significant issue on your hands, you could be needing to adjust the main spring.
It's always best to do the easiest thing first, id get it serviced 👍🤞
Smiths is still going, making mainly car instruments a mere shadow of its pre-EU might where every British and commonwealth made car had Smith's instruments, Smiths and Lucas were absolute global giants then we joined the EEC and closed down the very cushty commonwealth closed shop trading bloc. I seem to remember Smiths Empire were the exported ones and the named Smiths like the Triumph's were for the home market. Certainly Empires were quite common in Australia and Canada and a bit of grey marketry of watches crossing the border into the US as they were very well regarded timepieces. Those were the days when Made in Gt Britain was seen as the ultimate mark of quality, crafted not made was the slogan of those days with workers putting in a bit extra for their firm...
Noticed you were picking up the screws with a magnetized screwdriver. That's really bad. You want no part of the watch magnetized at all. You should buy a degauss machine online. They're about $10-$15. No need for a fancy one. Demagnetize your tools, and then do the same to the movement once you're done. You can uses apps on your phone to check for a magnetized movement. I've found that almost all of these dollar watch movements are heavily magnetized, including the cases. Demagnetizing them makes them run infinitely better, and fixes many issues.
Thanks man!
I actually have a Degausser, but unfortunately I'm questioning the quality of it...
I reckon a new one may be in order...
@@LRWatchRepair What the heck, YT keeps removing my comments
@@LRWatchRepair Just test it with your phone! It's easy to do. Open the app, set the watch on it. Then spin it slowly. You might get a negative reading, this is the magnets repelling each other. Spin the watch slowly, & you'll see it spike. That means you need to demagnetize it.
The cheap blue one from "a store named after a river" works fine. It's how you use it. Took me a second to figure out. Set the watch on the demagnetizer directly. Turn it on, & while holding the button, slowly lift the watch straight up until your arm is fully extended. Turn the watch around 180 degrees, & repeat. That should do it!
@@LRWatchRepair Some stubborn watches may take 2-4 cycles. Just check with your phone app. The app is for a non-apple cellular device. It's called "Magnetometer"
@@LRWatchRepair The app is for Android, & is called "Magnetometer"
Ingersoll was always a tricky brand as there were two companies, quite often during Britain's imperial days, the only way a non commonwealth company could get into the closed shop trading bloc was to set up business in the UK, Ever Ready batteries was one example, Ford UK another, General Motors simply got round much of this buying up ailing Vauxhall but in those days the only oil game in town was London and the only way to buy oil was in pounds so ships would arrive laden with goods, pounds exchanged and then a tanker of oil bought and sailed home again all managed from the Port of London and a vast complicated but efficient operation that astonished the world. Hence why there was Ingersoll London and Ingersoll not London.
Did I miss it? Which movement is this? Did Ingersoll produce their own movements? Is it Ronda?
These watches are actually more difficult than the more expensive ones with multiple Bridges, single plate movements are very tricky to get all the wheel pivots back in place. A pin lever Timex is actually more difficult to service or near impossible compared to say a Rolex from the 50s or 60s.
We're did u get the clear from?
Love you're speedy
Cheers man! Me too 😊
Watching you vibro clean the watch parts it struck me that there was far too much leeway for tiny parts to dissapear out the sides§§11 of the humungous basket you used perhaps 3/4 watch makers baskets would serve you better? just a thought :)
You were absolutely right Peter. What I didn't show was how meticulous I was in removing the parts!
I didn't know these baskets were a thing but I'll certainly be looking into them!
Thankyou very much! 😊
the balance assembly whole and the pallet forks SHOULD NOT go in the ultrasonic cleaner as the shellac that holds them on will be removed. Causing the pallet jewels and the hairspring to fall off, and possibly the impulse jewel.
That's great advice! Thankyou so much 👍
It's a pin pallet (roskopf) there is no pallet stones but an ultra sonic is fine you don't put pallets with jewels or a balance complete in anything stronger like iso or benzine as it erodes the shellac holding the jewels in place
@@LRWatchRepair If you do jeweled movements, use hexane on the pallet fork and balance assembly. It's the same as One Dip, but far cheaper. I realize this is an old video, so hopefully some other helpful person has told you this. You can safely use naptha\benzine\lighter fluid on the shellac parts, but no ultra sonic or alcohol.
how long have you been repairing watches for?
No time at all really! Just picked it up and had a go
How long have you been doing this? Also just noticed the comment below about the glow-in-the-dark dials - Bill is right, even if they no longer glow they are still radioactive. The phosphor that gives the glow degrades and stops glowing, but the radioactive part (the radium) that powers it will be dangerous for around 1600 years.
I haven't been doing this long at all my friend. And am learning leaps and bounds on the daily, includong the risks and dangers of vintage watches
@@LRWatchRepair Similar here - about 4 years now. Started off with the smith's movements. I still like them and have a few (from 1920's to 1980's) Look up WristWatch Revival - been watching his lately and learned a bit. Also, C S Spinner Watch Restorations is good. Both are a bit beyond my level but still learn a lot.
@@LRWatchRepair Made this ruclips.net/video/srqzHXbt3DI/видео.html
I am affraid, that by Your nice Watch is the hair spring bend, or - let´s say - "tangled". You need to dismout once more the complete balance, remove the hair spring coil, and (use two fine tweezers) and try to straight it. The main thing is - no one thread of the hair should touch the other one ! PLease, look on the Lessons on YT, f.e. the best is Mark Lovick....
Good Luck, Tom
Hi Tom,
That's a great observation, I think you're absolutely correct.
I'm all honestly I did attempt to rectify but was worried I was doing more harm than good!
I'll certainly keep that in mind if I should have this issue in the future.
Thanks again!
@@LRWatchRepair Yeah, You can guess how i understand Your concerns.... 🙂, well, i am sure, that this movements, or its spare parts (f.e. NOS parts - and especially the balance staff looks very similar to the Smiths brand watches from that era..) You can find on e-bay, maybe as a complete balance staff, and its change to fix the watch shall be very easy for You.
But so as so - i have a spare time now, maybe i can advice You.
The hairspring straithening does looks sometimes more complicated as its really is...
On my Watchmaking beginning times (1986) i have learn from old and experience watchmaker, to use for those works on balance spring - except a very GOOD magnifying glass, two very sharp and fine tweezers - a clean, white sheet of hard paper, where i drew schematicaly the coil - as its should be in original - (thats mean - the right amount of threads, the diameter, and position of the "jewel" and of the connection point on the end of the spring).
The damagged spiral hair spring i placed next to the drawing, and straight it in two main steps:
1 - make it "an open thread" - thats mean, with a needle, holding the center with a pegwood, i was "driving" with the needle between the threadet wirde from the brass center to the end fixing point, and trying, that each individual turn or thread is "seaparated" (should NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER) - then look on such a coil and point with a red marker, where is the "wire" bend - and correct it - HOLDING THE POINT IN A TWEEZER AND SIMPLY AND CAREFULLY STRAIGHT/STROKE THE WIRE WITH THE NEEDLE.
2 - make it "flat" - thats mean, trying, that the coil is COMPLETELY touching the paper, where is lying - if not - point with a green marker those points, where the wire rises from the surface - AND HOLD THE WIRE WITH TWO TWEEZERS BEFORE AND BEHIND ITS BENDING POINT - AND TURN THE TWEEZER BEHIND TO THE PAPER/FLATNESS.
After You´ll fix the coil of the hair spring, notice, that the location the coil on balance wheel shall guaranteed, that the escape wheel bearing + pallet fork bearing + the balance output controll jewel ("nose") - are in one line (depend the beat error on this rule).
You will see, that to fix the balance spring coil - ist not a tragedy...
I hope, i am not disturbing with my loooong writing, well finally i was trying only to help "on a long distance" 🙂
Good luck a have a lot of succesfull watchmakers projects !!!!!
T.
My friend,
Thankyou so much for your concise response and you're incredibly clear instructions on how to straighten a hair spring!
I really appreciate you taking the time to inform me of that 😊
I look forward to further help and advice from you as I carry on this journey.
Thanks mate
For the dial, I use denture cleaner. For the casses I yse Mouthers Car polish .
I've damaged dials even with water alone! Always makes me so nervous
👌
These watches aren't made to be disassembled like this. The idea with these is that it is serviceable by removing the basics (hands face, loose wheels, etc) but not the main bridge. It can be cleaned in alcohol, oiled LIGHTLY, then will run great! there are no jewels, so no need to disassemble.
I'll be sure to try this in the future as it could certainly save some effort, I'd be keen to see the efficacy of this
"A more cheesier way to remove..."?? Oh wait..."a much easier way"! Sorry mate, my American ears get confused by the great accent! 😀
Haha sorry about that pal. Believe you me, if I could choose accents, I wouldn't have chosen this one! 😂
@LR Watch Repair nah, it's great! I was in Yorkshire some years ago when my daughter was living there, and her friends said I had the most amazing accent...and I'm thinking I just have a boring American one. Anyway I think it's great what you're doing. I'm about two years into it myself. Learning a lot, and buying tools, and having a ton of fun. But I will warn you: vintage wrist watches with the non-shock setting balance jewels...have the smallest most diabolical screws I've ever seen...and lost...I hates them. :'D
Ahh nice one. Well I was born and bred in Lincolnshire so not a million miles off!
Always the way, love the accents!
That's great to know I'm not along here! Seeming vertical learning curve... My next foe is a cheap mechanical Rotary luckily with the incabloc shock settings. It's gonna get very small, very quick!
Your wrist watch is not working.
Pin pallets movements are an amazing feat of engineering its a shame most of us watchmakers look down on them as there not very pretty i first worked on these as a kid in my dads workshop before he trusted me with any customers timepieces. I have to admit i cringed a bit when i seen you dabbing the excess oil with a q tip! Please get some rodico (it also helps with those pesky flying springs in the keyless works) ive subbed looking forward to seeing you progress good luck my friend!