This video is beautiful in its simplicity. No artsiness, no cliched opening phrases, no "angle" being worked for subscribers or company products. Just a video with someone's accumulated practical knowledge. It was a pleasure to watch!
Great video!! We're used to see reviews of super nice pens/inks on super nice paper, but... In reality, the vast majority of everyday writing is done on cheap paper! Regular notebooks, standard documents, red tape... You get it! THIS kind of review is what an everyday FP user needs! Thank you!
I use a medium TWSBI Eco with KWZ Sheen Machine #2 on the carbon paper at my job, and it works perfectly. I've also used my EF Vanishing Point with Noodler's 54th Massachusetts with nearly as good results.
This is good content, keep it up! Cheap paper has been a problem since way back in the day, but back then, cheap paper was made less feathery by adding more gloss to impede ink absorption, but at the cost of having the ink dry on the page, which will have it smudge really quickly. In terms of ballpoint - best option for writing for me is Pilot Acroball. For cheap paper, I use nothing else but that pen, unless I specifically want to have the ink bleed through the page as a mark of authenticity.
@@phi1688 On most cheap papers the ink works very well for me. I use it mostly to label envelopes. It doesn't feather much. And the ink rarely bleeds through the paper. And if it ever bled through the paper, it was never so much that the next page was affected - at least for me. But there are - of course - also disadvantages. It's a very dry ink. Love it or hate it - I hate ... or at least don't like it. And it's pigmented - that makes it waterproof but can cause some problems. I once filled a Pelikan M200 with the ink and it clogged the nib unit. Fortunately, the nib unit on the M200 is replaceable. So, I would strongly recommend not to use it in expensive fountain pens. And I would recommend to clean the pen very often. My Pilot Kaküno on the other hand is cheap and has no problems with the ink - a perfect match.
I just graduated from a 4yr university. I used fountain pens since being a psych major means 20 pages of double sided notes a day per class. With 3 classes plus book notes it averages out to about 60- 80 pages/day depending on the subject. Yikes ( believe me I know; I was sure my hand was gonna fall off). I had to use poor quality 3-hole filler paper that was 75 cents for 300 sheets. Noodler's X-feather in both black and blue worked really well and didn't feather or bleed very much. The caveat being I could only use fountain pens with F and EF nibs. Use anything broader and you get some serious smearing problems. This is especially true with higher quality paper due to slightly/significantly longer drying times. It varies depending on the material/absorbency of the paper. It comes in a nice glass bottle, and you get 3oz for approximately $15 on average. Total steal. Each bottle lasted me all school year, and I still have about 1/4 of a bottle left of each color. The wide mouth makes it so you can easily reach deep inside the bottle and get every drop of ink. It also doesn't matter what kind of filling system you prefer using. Just be warned that the company fills the bottle to the brim so you have to be careful of spilling when you first start using the ink. The ink isn't very waterproof, nor does it offer any shading. These three cons aside, this is a great ink to use as an everyday workhorse. The pens I used were my HongDian 920 F, Lamy Safari F, Pilot Explorer F, and my Twisbi Eco F. I know these are cheap beginner pens but college kid = broke. This type of ink did really well with all my pens except for my pilot explorer. I'm pretty sure that's because the nib behaved more like a sharp EF instead of an F. If I ever get another one with a M nib; the ink should work just fine.
Oh I remember the ultra broke student days! Haven't used X-Feather yet, was wondering how the dry time is. I know on good paper it takes forever, how quick did it dry on the cheap paper?
@@Doodlebud it was really quick about 2-5 sec on average. This ink was designed for crappy paper. It does have a little bit of bleed through but it was just tiny dots. It should do well on your triplicate forms. again it only really works well with F nibs since that gives enough flow to make it effective but not so much that it bleeds everywhere. I hope this helps
Excellent video. I am curious how the "carbon" copy layers came out since you can't press as hard on the nib as you can on the tip of a rollerball or ballpoint. I would be very careful pressing down on my pen's nib for the copies to show. That's where rollerball pens that are refillable with fountain pen ink shine. They put down less ink than a fountain pen and can be pressed down on the paper to make the copies legible. Anyway, thanks for a very interesting video.
Very late reply - but vintage pens had what are called 'manifold' nibs - very stiff, very hard "stiff as a nail" nibs designed for writing on carbon copy forms.
Excellent review. My experience is very similar, I rely on my Platinum 3776 fine nib or Century EF for carbon paper with cartridge ink. The UEF can tear the cheapest of paper. Sailors are dry and smooth enough for cheap paper, but won't get through carbon paper.
Thanks for sharing for everyone else as a reference. The nib has to be fine & smooth but also firm to get through copies. The hoops us fountain pen heads will jump through are endless :)
In my opinion fountain pens should write well in every kind of paper: cheap and expensive... X-feather inks do that... There is the blue version now... Good option made by Noodler's...
I use Inoxcrom fountain pens in reverse writing with carbon papers. In another cheap copy paper, I use Preppy 0.2 in reverse writing. It's thinner than a UEF nib.
For multilayer copies, your best bet is Monteverdi's Parker compatible gel ink cartridges. Odds are good that some of your pens come in ballpoint versions that this will fit.
My best combo for cheap paper: Lamy Studio, fine nib (not extra fine, it will dig out too much fiber), Rohrer & Klingner "Scabiosa" (it's an iron-gall-ink). The ink with the fine nib is quite dry, so no smudging, still no visible feathering, the colour is a violet-grey and dark enough, it's very legible and water-proof.
I don’t use my higher end 18K nibs on cheap paper especially if its multiple copies, that’s what ball point disposable pens were made for. If forced to use a fp I would choose a steel nib and a Parker black ink. JMHO. My issue with some quality paper designed for fp such as Rhodia 80 gsm is great on the front side and porous on the back sometimes making a fine nib appear to be a medium.
I am only halfway through this video but I had to stop to say a few things: 1) I always enjoy you videos - interesting, and informative. Keep up the great work as it’s appreciated. 2) I I am a fountain pen fan, but am in shock that your company has a paper based system for this kind of data collection. It’s cool you have a reason to show us what pens work well on the crap paper we all use at work… but I am floored that this is not on a screen from the outset. Back to watch the rest.🙂
As a graphic designer I only encauter paper when I want to so I don't deal with carbon copy, but where I live good paper for fountain pen is very expensive and hard to find. So I use printer paper. I found that the semi coated ones usualy perform better but my Preppy 0.2 works fine even in horrible quality binder paper. Pelikan inks work well, but food coloring performs best in cleap paper. Probably because it has a bit of alcohol in the composition so I guess it helps to dry faster. If it's something I want to least, like a drawing or painting, I use Rohrer & Klingner SketchInk.
@@Doodlebud I don't think so. I have been using in the same Preppy pen for over an year and I see no difference. Still, I wouldn't try it in a pricier pen.
You know he right tool for the right job has some wisdom in it. For 4 part NCR paper, have you ever considered a ballpoint or hybrid ink pen? Would have been interesting if you had shown the bottom page of the form to see how well the print shows up through the ncr paper.
Oh I've considered ballpoint and even tried it once. As soon as I wrote the first character on the page with the ballpoint I blacked out and was hospitalized for 3 weeks in an induced comma. Once I came to, the doctors said the exceptionally poor writing experience was too much for my nervous system to handle and my body just shut down. So, instead I just find compatible nibs & inks for use on the crappy form paper I have to use. I have a doctor's order to exclusively use fountain pens.😆
@@Doodlebud We have a 12 Step program for you. I too was once a FP Supremist. But in time I realized that roller ball pens actually use fountain pen ink. I learned how to refill my Parker roller ball cartridge with bottled ink. That was my first step. Then after much therapy and time, I realize just how much hybrid inks (like Jetstream and Pilot) have improved. Although I still cannot get over my feelings that fountain pens are superior to all other pens, I now can use roller balls and hybrid inks when the job requires. I take it one day at a time. I wish you luck with your pen bigotry. Just remember, judge a pen not by the color of its ink, but by the character of its nib.
Can you list the lot with models and nibs? Inks, too would be great. It would have been nice to give more detail, especially at the beginning and end. Had to watch through more than once to get enough information to Google everything myself
Oh man Robert Oster on cheap paper, ......., YIKES! Have you tried any of Waterman or Parker Quink inks? Waterman inks are fantastic for everything, every pen, every paper, and they are relatively inexpensive. I started out using a Hemisphere (F) and Serenity Blue, so I know it works well on cheap paper, because I didn't even there was such a thing as fountain pen friendly paper. In fact, I always have a bottle of Serenity and/or Mysterious Blue. It's the first ink I use in any pen. It's a must have. I don't have a must have pen, or paper, but I do have a must have ink.
I've used the Quink before, my very first bottle of ink. Also have serenity blue & I find it's a very wet ink & bleeds especially on the cheap paper I use. Guess we all have our different systems that we've worked out to adapt to our own specific circumstances. Thanks for the input 👍
@@Doodlebud Hmmmm ...... What about Waterman Mysterious Blue, it's on the drier side. I wonder what they did in the old days before ballpoints? Everybody used fountain pens - didn't they have this problem? I recently watched a video from Jetpens on the best best inks for cheap paper. ruclips.net/video/BYz7WmPEAr8/видео.html
Around the 2:30 mark, can you please tell me which pen is fourth from the right, so three over from the Lamy 2000? It looks like a maki-e pen. It's sooo pretty.
Ahh yes, that's the Moonman M8. Looks pretty but not really impressed with build quality. You can see my review here: ruclips.net/video/V-7vwIZzGfI/видео.html
I put gum on my inks and they simply can be applied on all kind of papers, even napkin. The only problem is a bit of hard stard. Not something that will put you crazy. But it is not a solution for a pen that sometimes you use to sign something, is for a pen used to write
my office's use of genuine 'carbon' copies led to my collection of Sheaffer and Parker Ballpoints, later followed by Rollerballs. Plus being federal civil service in San Jose CA - is working poor (with Good Benefits), I couldn't afford fountain pens. Now that I'm retired I've added fountain pens to the sets - Do You have Sets?: Sheaffer Intensity: Ballpoint, Roller, and Fountain? - Safari: Ballpoint, Roller, and Fountain?
Haven't gotten a pen set yet. So far it's not something that catches my eye. I understand the appeal of having a set and it makes sense, but for whatever reason it doesn't peak my interest.
My current absolute favourite pen for cheap paper is the Majohn A1. That EF nib coupled with Diamine’s “Little Matty” (a Cult Pens exclusive) works so perfectly that I’m asking myself why I didn’t switch to fountain pens earlier in life and avoid those pesky disposable (and very hard to recycle) plastic pens! 😅
If you're using the Muji aluminium fountain pen, is there a specific ink that you find works well on cheap paper, or just all the ones you mentioned will do just fine?
@@Doodlebud i bought a platinum prefount that came with some blue black after I posted my original comment and it didn't bleed at all on the terrible school paper that I was handed out. I proceeded to buy an entire bottle because I was shocked at how good the results where. The bottle is the same ink and It doesn't bleed through at all with the same pen and nib that even my nicest most well behaved ink bled through! I think I'm going to get most of the colors eventually. I was nothing short of amazed
On cheap paper I use a Soyuz 65 with a fine 14k gold nib. I use it with Waterman's Serenity blue. The nib is quite flexi. Absolutely no feathering. Quite rare now. Perfect. It is a teal colour with gold filled cap and trim. It looks like an improved Parker 51 with a pearl white cap jewel.
It doesn't really matter on the price or quality of the pen, its all on the paper. Cheap paper is just not manufactured to handle a water-based ink. You can find some lower-price stuff that works pretty well with fountain pen ink, but that is why there is the fountain pen "friendly" paper market.
Ballpoints solve the laundry list of issues that plague the fountain pen. Like the modern car vs an old classic. But if you get it running just right, it's a pleasure to use. But yes, faults are plentiful with the fountain pen.
This video is beautiful in its simplicity. No artsiness, no cliched opening phrases, no "angle" being worked for subscribers or company products. Just a video with someone's accumulated practical knowledge. It was a pleasure to watch!
Glad you enjoyed it! I really have no clue what I'm doing with my vids. I get an idea pop in my head, then I get out my phone 😂
Great video!! We're used to see reviews of super nice pens/inks on super nice paper, but... In reality, the vast majority of everyday writing is done on cheap paper! Regular notebooks, standard documents, red tape... You get it! THIS kind of review is what an everyday FP user needs! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful
I use a medium TWSBI Eco with KWZ Sheen Machine #2 on the carbon paper at my job, and it works perfectly. I've also used my EF Vanishing Point with Noodler's 54th Massachusetts with nearly as good results.
This is good content, keep it up! Cheap paper has been a problem since way back in the day, but back then, cheap paper was made less feathery by adding more gloss to impede ink absorption, but at the cost of having the ink dry on the page, which will have it smudge really quickly.
In terms of ballpoint - best option for writing for me is Pilot Acroball. For cheap paper, I use nothing else but that pen, unless I specifically want to have the ink bleed through the page as a mark of authenticity.
Thank you for the comparison. I use a Pilot Kaküno with a fine nib, filled with Platinum Carbon Black. The ink is also waterproof.
i know i'm two years late, but how does it perform on cheap paper?
@@phi1688 On most cheap papers the ink works very well for me. I use it mostly to label envelopes. It doesn't feather much. And the ink rarely bleeds through the paper. And if it ever bled through the paper, it was never so much that the next page was affected - at least for me.
But there are - of course - also disadvantages. It's a very dry ink. Love it or hate it - I hate ... or at least don't like it. And it's pigmented - that makes it waterproof but can cause some problems. I once filled a Pelikan M200 with the ink and it clogged the nib unit. Fortunately, the nib unit on the M200 is replaceable. So, I would strongly recommend not to use it in expensive fountain pens. And I would recommend to clean the pen very often. My Pilot Kaküno on the other hand is cheap and has no problems with the ink - a perfect match.
I just graduated from a 4yr university. I used fountain pens since being a psych major means 20 pages of double sided notes a day per class. With 3 classes plus book notes it averages out to about 60- 80 pages/day depending on the subject. Yikes ( believe me I know; I was sure my hand was gonna fall off).
I had to use poor quality 3-hole filler paper that was 75 cents for 300 sheets. Noodler's X-feather in both black and blue worked really well and didn't feather or bleed very much. The caveat being I could only use fountain pens with F and EF nibs. Use anything broader and you get some serious smearing problems. This is especially true with higher quality paper due to slightly/significantly longer drying times. It varies depending on the material/absorbency of the paper.
It comes in a nice glass bottle, and you get 3oz for approximately $15 on average. Total steal. Each bottle lasted me all school year, and I still have about 1/4 of a bottle left of each color. The wide mouth makes it so you can easily reach deep inside the bottle and get every drop of ink. It also doesn't matter what kind of filling system you prefer using.
Just be warned that the company fills the bottle to the brim so you have to be careful of spilling when you first start using the ink. The ink isn't very waterproof, nor does it offer any shading. These three cons aside, this is a great ink to use as an everyday workhorse.
The pens I used were my HongDian 920 F, Lamy Safari F, Pilot Explorer F, and my Twisbi Eco F. I know these are cheap beginner pens but college kid = broke. This type of ink did really well with all my pens except for my pilot explorer. I'm pretty sure that's because the nib behaved more like a sharp EF instead of an F. If I ever get another one with a M nib; the ink should work just fine.
Oh I remember the ultra broke student days! Haven't used X-Feather yet, was wondering how the dry time is. I know on good paper it takes forever, how quick did it dry on the cheap paper?
@@Doodlebud it was really quick about 2-5 sec on average. This ink was designed for crappy paper. It does have a little bit of bleed through but it was just tiny dots. It should do well on your triplicate forms. again it only really works well with F nibs since that gives enough flow to make it effective but not so much that it bleeds everywhere. I hope this helps
@@veronicawhite6833 thanks buddy. I only use XF/F nibs for my forms, and firm ones with no flex. Might have to pick one up next time I do an order 👍
Excellent video. I am curious how the "carbon" copy layers came out since you can't press as hard on the nib as you can on the tip of a rollerball or ballpoint. I would be very careful pressing down on my pen's nib for the copies to show. That's where rollerball pens that are refillable with fountain pen ink shine. They put down less ink than a fountain pen and can be pressed down on the paper to make the copies legible. Anyway, thanks for a very interesting video.
Very late reply - but vintage pens had what are called 'manifold' nibs - very stiff, very hard "stiff as a nail" nibs designed for writing on carbon copy forms.
Sailor Kiwaguro is near perfect on almost every paper I've tried. Nothing else comes even close.
Thx for sharing, I haven't tried that one yet
Very good video. Very practical too.
Excellent review. My experience is very similar, I rely on my Platinum 3776 fine nib or Century EF for carbon paper with cartridge ink. The UEF can tear the cheapest of paper. Sailors are dry and smooth enough for cheap paper, but won't get through carbon paper.
Thanks for sharing for everyone else as a reference. The nib has to be fine & smooth but also firm to get through copies. The hoops us fountain pen heads will jump through are endless :)
I was literally googling this subject yesterday!
Thanks bud!
In my opinion fountain pens should write well in every kind of paper: cheap and expensive... X-feather inks do that... There is the blue version now... Good option made by Noodler's...
It’s just not true. And lay off of … try using words.
Informative video. In my testing Iron Gall inks seem to preform best, for me, on trash paper.
Thanks for the tip. Haven't tried any iron gall inks yet
I use Inoxcrom fountain pens in reverse writing with carbon papers. In another cheap copy paper, I use Preppy 0.2 in reverse writing. It's thinner than a UEF nib.
I do notice pilots are fine enough but sometimes too sharp and then you can get a bunch of fibers stuck
For multilayer copies, your best bet is Monteverdi's Parker compatible gel ink cartridges. Odds are good that some of your pens come in ballpoint versions that this will fit.
Ballpoints/rollerballs are always better for this kind of work. But I'm pretty much 100% all in with using FPs
My best combo for cheap paper: Lamy Studio, fine nib (not extra fine, it will dig out too much fiber), Rohrer & Klingner "Scabiosa" (it's an iron-gall-ink). The ink with the fine nib is quite dry, so no smudging, still no visible feathering, the colour is a violet-grey and dark enough, it's very legible and water-proof.
Another unique video. Excellent. Thanks
I don’t use my higher end 18K nibs on cheap paper especially if its multiple copies, that’s what ball point disposable pens were made for. If forced to use a fp I would choose a steel nib and a Parker black ink. JMHO. My issue with some quality paper designed for fp such as Rhodia 80 gsm is great on the front side and porous on the back sometimes making a fine nib appear to be a medium.
I am only halfway through this video but I had to stop to say a few things:
1) I always enjoy you videos - interesting, and informative. Keep up the great work as it’s appreciated.
2) I I am a fountain pen fan, but am in shock that your company has a paper based system for this kind of data collection. It’s cool you have a reason to show us what pens work well on the crap paper we all use at work… but I am floored that this is not on a screen from the outset.
Back to watch the rest.🙂
Lol, we do have digital & just moved 100% to digital. We could still do paper & I hung on as long as I could!
As a graphic designer I only encauter paper when I want to so I don't deal with carbon copy, but where I live good paper for fountain pen is very expensive and hard to find. So I use printer paper. I found that the semi coated ones usualy perform better but my Preppy 0.2 works fine even in horrible quality binder paper. Pelikan inks work well, but food coloring performs best in cleap paper. Probably because it has a bit of alcohol in the composition so I guess it helps to dry faster. If it's something I want to least, like a drawing or painting, I use Rohrer & Klingner SketchInk.
I've heard some good results with mixing food colouring. I wonder if the alcohol content is high enough to interact with the fountain pen components
@@Doodlebud I don't think so. I have been using in the same Preppy pen for over an year and I see no difference. Still, I wouldn't try it in a pricier pen.
Great video. Good info. Delightful personality.
Thank you kindly!
Good thing you convinced me to buy a Faber Castell black. Still waiting delivery. Looking forward to testing it out
Hope you enjoy the pen as much as I do
If you grind the lamy m to a fine cursive italic nib and slightly adjust the ink flow it works fine for most paper except the really thin ones.
I use my Parker Jotter XL for exactly this purpose - filling out forms
A nice blue/black albeit on the pricier side is the Faber Castell Cobalt Blue. I am not a guru by any means, but I do think it's drier ink.
You know he right tool for the right job has some wisdom in it. For 4 part NCR paper, have you ever considered a ballpoint or hybrid ink pen? Would have been interesting if you had shown the bottom page of the form to see how well the print shows up through the ncr paper.
Oh I've considered ballpoint and even tried it once. As soon as I wrote the first character on the page with the ballpoint I blacked out and was hospitalized for 3 weeks in an induced comma. Once I came to, the doctors said the exceptionally poor writing experience was too much for my nervous system to handle and my body just shut down. So, instead I just find compatible nibs & inks for use on the crappy form paper I have to use. I have a doctor's order to exclusively use fountain pens.😆
@@Doodlebud We have a 12 Step program for you. I too was once a FP Supremist. But in time I realized that roller ball pens actually use fountain pen ink. I learned how to refill my Parker roller ball cartridge with bottled ink. That was my first step. Then after much therapy and time, I realize just how much hybrid inks (like Jetstream and Pilot) have improved. Although I still cannot get over my feelings that fountain pens are superior to all other pens, I now can use roller balls and hybrid inks when the job requires. I take it one day at a time. I wish you luck with your pen bigotry.
Just remember, judge a pen not by the color of its ink, but by the character of its nib.
Can you list the lot with models and nibs? Inks, too would be great. It would have been nice to give more detail, especially at the beginning and end. Had to watch through more than once to get enough information to Google everything myself
calling Pentel a "random ballpoint" sounds like an subtle offence.
Oh man Robert Oster on cheap paper, ......., YIKES! Have you tried any of Waterman or Parker Quink inks? Waterman inks are fantastic for everything, every pen, every paper, and they are relatively inexpensive. I started out using a Hemisphere (F) and Serenity Blue, so I know it works well on cheap paper, because I didn't even there was such a thing as fountain pen friendly paper. In fact, I always have a bottle of Serenity and/or Mysterious Blue. It's the first ink I use in any pen. It's a must have. I don't have a must have pen, or paper, but I do have a must have ink.
I've used the Quink before, my very first bottle of ink. Also have serenity blue & I find it's a very wet ink & bleeds especially on the cheap paper I use. Guess we all have our different systems that we've worked out to adapt to our own specific circumstances. Thanks for the input 👍
@@Doodlebud Hmmmm ...... What about Waterman Mysterious Blue, it's on the drier side. I wonder what they did in the old days before ballpoints? Everybody used fountain pens - didn't they have this problem? I recently watched a video from Jetpens on the best best inks for cheap paper. ruclips.net/video/BYz7WmPEAr8/видео.html
Around the 2:30 mark, can you please tell me which pen is fourth from the right, so three over from the Lamy 2000? It looks like a maki-e pen. It's sooo pretty.
Ahh yes, that's the Moonman M8. Looks pretty but not really impressed with build quality. You can see my review here:
ruclips.net/video/V-7vwIZzGfI/видео.html
I put gum on my inks and they simply can be applied on all kind of papers, even napkin.
The only problem is a bit of hard stard. Not something that will put you crazy. But it is not a solution for a pen that sometimes you use to sign something, is for a pen used to write
my office's use of genuine 'carbon' copies led to my collection of Sheaffer and Parker Ballpoints, later followed by Rollerballs. Plus being federal civil service in San Jose CA - is working poor (with Good Benefits), I couldn't afford fountain pens. Now that I'm retired I've added fountain pens to the sets - Do You have Sets?: Sheaffer Intensity: Ballpoint, Roller, and Fountain? - Safari: Ballpoint, Roller, and Fountain?
Haven't gotten a pen set yet. So far it's not something that catches my eye. I understand the appeal of having a set and it makes sense, but for whatever reason it doesn't peak my interest.
Hello. I have a question is it true that some companies prefer a client to use a blue colour ink when you have to write your signature?
Sometimes non-black inks (typically blue) are used for signatures to be able to distinguish between the original and a copy.
My question is how do you clean out the piston filler completely? I have that issue on my MontBlanc 146 and my Pelikan.
My current absolute favourite pen for cheap paper is the Majohn A1. That EF nib coupled with Diamine’s “Little Matty” (a Cult Pens exclusive) works so perfectly that I’m asking myself why I didn’t switch to fountain pens earlier in life and avoid those pesky disposable (and very hard to recycle) plastic pens! 😅
I have a Majohn A2. Can confirm it works very nicely, even on cheap paper!
@@Lambrodor so glad I’m not the only one with the positive experience!
If you're using the Muji aluminium fountain pen, is there a specific ink that you find works well on cheap paper, or just all the ones you mentioned will do just fine?
Any fountain pen friendly ink is just fine
Do I see a hong dian black dahlia in that screenshot pen spread? Edit: sorry thumbnail.
Faber castell emotion, love that pen! Was in my Appelboom Top 3 pens
Is it possible to pair ideal nib and ink with a favorite pen?
Many people do like to pair inks and pens. I personally just use whichever I feel like using, I'm not too picky
In summary, what would be your top 2 pens and inks for copy paper and triplicate carbon paper?
Have you tried nano carbon inks or Rohrer Salix?
I do have some platinum carbon black in cartridges to try out
Have you tried iron gall inks like the platinum or R&K?
Haven't tired those yet.
@@Doodlebud i bought a platinum prefount that came with some blue black after I posted my original comment and it didn't bleed at all on the terrible school paper that I was handed out. I proceeded to buy an entire bottle because I was shocked at how good the results where. The bottle is the same ink and It doesn't bleed through at all with the same pen and nib that even my nicest most well behaved ink bled through! I think I'm going to get most of the colors eventually. I was nothing short of amazed
What model is the Faber-Castell?
You should do an update to this video.
I have a "Fountain Pens On The Cheap" video planned which can cover some of this stuff
@@Doodlebud man that would be great!
You said Pilot M805 - Pelikan I believe...
around minute 2m54s
The real question is how do you prevent coworkers or clients from using the fountain pens 😅
Just be the really grumpy person at work & they'll know to leave you alone 😠😂
3:00 *Pelikan M 805
😉
@@Doodlebud No worries. You have a very good collection. Impressive. 🥰
I keep saying Pilot M805 in a recent video too LOL 😵
I honestly thought the title was Fountain Pens For Cheap People.
Well if you're using cheap paper could be for cheap people as well LOL
On cheap paper I use a Soyuz 65 with a fine 14k gold nib. I use it with Waterman's Serenity blue. The nib is quite flexi. Absolutely no feathering.
Quite rare now. Perfect. It is a teal colour with gold filled cap and trim.
It looks like an improved Parker 51 with a pearl white cap jewel.
B-52's. 🎶🎼
I honestly read this as Best Fountain Pens To Use With Cheap People. 😂
A big irritant !!!! Ever so often even a premium international quality pen let's one down with ordinary paper & ink .
It doesn't really matter on the price or quality of the pen, its all on the paper. Cheap paper is just not manufactured to handle a water-based ink. You can find some lower-price stuff that works pretty well with fountain pen ink, but that is why there is the fountain pen "friendly" paper market.
I use a ballpoint. Guess what? It works each time, every time. No muss, no fuss, no mistakes, no pretense.
Ballpoints solve the laundry list of issues that plague the fountain pen. Like the modern car vs an old classic. But if you get it running just right, it's a pleasure to use. But yes, faults are plentiful with the fountain pen.
@@Doodlebud not faults but idiosyncrasies 😁.