I have all those tools shown. One thing to remember is you have to repeat the process for every different bullet type you use and each manufacturer. I also repeat the process for new boxes of bullets, even if from the same manufacturer. I do four or five checks in a row (they should be close, if not something is wrong), then take the average of those checks and load up a cartridge. I then paint the bullet with bluing or black marker and chamber the round, if it is hitting the lands you can instantly see it by marks on the bullet. I always keep it a bit off the lands, especially for heavier loads, no desire to blow up my rifle or get hurt, this is supposed to be fun after all.
I have tried and tried and tried to understand this process. Im not dumb, just a terrible student, I require pretty pictures and sock puppets. This video did it for me, thank you.
One thing of note, the base of the bullet comparator body has a thick side and a thin side. Just look at the base and you will see what I am talking about. It is critical the OAL Gauge be oriented such that the bullet enters the comparator like-side to like-side. Otherwise, the bullet will enter the comparator canted, leading to inconsistent measurements. With the modified case attached to the OAL Gauge and no bullet inserted and the Bullet Comparator with an insert installed on the micrometer, close the jaws on the the micrometer. The case mouth and comparator hole should be in alignment. If not, rotate one of the 2 180 degrees. This will give you the proper orientation between the two items.
No one ever mentions this in their review or reloading process. I didn't realize this until I saw a vid specially made to inform everyone of this. So, thank you for informing everyone of this important little bit of info that everyone should know. WM
I use this and it works great. Couple it with the headspace gauge, that looks very similar, and you've got the tools to really develop some great loads. These are a must in my opinion.
Exactly right. Case length is just as important as bullet seating depth. It would be better if he demonstrated headspacing from the shoulder first to get that right before even bothering with seating depth.
These tools do add up in cost, but---you only have to buy it once--it will last a lifetime. Down the road, using different guns, different bullets, it gives you the means to measure all the differences, and they do exist. Bullets vary lot to lot, sometimes mfgrs make a change without saying anything about it. They give you the ability to measure case base to shoulder datum lengths, and adjust your sizing dies properly, and can save headaches with brass fit in a gun, brass life as well. They will educate you about all the aspects of variables in the components you use, and the guns you use them in. In the long run, a cheap investment.
So did I. It's an excellent tool. I went another route, making dummy rounds with each bullet at my preferred length found with my Stoney Point gauge that I load instead to use in my seating die. However, I'll probably get t bullet comparator so that I don't have all those dummy rounds to store and keep from corroding.
You can send in two of your fired cases and Hornady will make you a modified case for your exact chamber. It is only a few bucks. I also recommend the tools for measuring your shoulder bump when sizing brass. These tools are a must have and will not break the bank.
Denny Baum , you can just measure a fired cases headspace and headspace of the hornady modified case and add the difference to the value you get from the modified case.
I bought the required drill bit & tap. Make my own now from cleaned fired brass (not resized). Each bullet type is kept in its own labeled tiny baggie within the modified case baggie.
Your right about the inserts , I found that using the Hornady 30 cal insert with a 168gr Hornady Amax projectile that the projectile makes no contact at all at any point on the inside of the insert hole , in fact the bullet goes all the way in until the point of the bullet hits the base of the insert holder . I cannot understand why Hornady dose not make a special insert for its long sleek projectiles such as the Amax . I’m think of buying a Sinclair insert to try to see if it works . The problem could be that the hole in the insert is larger than 30 cal , I’ll try to measure it to see if that is the case . Would I be able to get any valid measurements if I use the the .284 cal insert with .308 cal Hornady Amax bullet ?
Yea that tool will probably get you within 10 thousands of the overall length of your cartridge. Remember that the modified case didn’t go through your sizing die so likely has a different base to shoulder datum length. Also when you full length size a case and chamber it the shoulder of the case will not likely be resting against the chamber shoulder. As it would be if you used this device. So you don’t have an accurate measurement of where the bullet contacts the rifling. Looks like a good tool for reference though.
I believe it's a AR-10 lower with a bolt action upper. I know you can purchase an bolt action upper for AR-10 and AR-15 from Uintah Precision with a 6.5 creedmoor for around 1,300.
I just watched this video an was going over the comments an noticed no reply .Not sure if you found it yet for any 6.5 you will need 5-26.. You would think they would help us out an list it just like case holders they give you a number but no calibers for the numbered case holder.
@@BoltActionReloading thank you. I just got my apex 10 set up a couple days ago and only thing I’ve made are 9mm. Hoping to 223/308 setup next week on it.
Hornady inserts are made of aluminum and may change over time. Compatible Sinclair inserts are stainless with a machined taper instead of just a drilled hole and are extremely consistent
These gauges along with any other gauge like this one, gives a false readings. "It seems reasonable to think that the diameter of the throat erodes." John Whidden
Not sure what your "false readings" are. Its a comparator. The measurement it reads is not as important as that you can again make it what it was before or know how one thing relates to another.
I have all those tools shown. One thing to remember is you have to repeat the process for every different bullet type you use and each manufacturer. I also repeat the process for new boxes of bullets, even if from the same manufacturer. I do four or five checks in a row (they should be close, if not something is wrong), then take the average of those checks and load up a cartridge. I then paint the bullet with bluing or black marker and chamber the round, if it is hitting the lands you can instantly see it by marks on the bullet. I always keep it a bit off the lands, especially for heavier loads, no desire to blow up my rifle or get hurt, this is supposed to be fun after all.
I have tried and tried and tried to understand this process. Im not dumb, just a terrible student, I require pretty pictures and sock puppets. This video did it for me, thank you.
One thing of note, the base of the bullet comparator body has a thick side and a thin side. Just look at the base and you will see what I am talking about. It is critical the OAL Gauge be oriented such that the bullet enters the comparator like-side to like-side. Otherwise, the bullet will enter the comparator canted, leading to inconsistent measurements. With the modified case attached to the OAL Gauge and no bullet inserted and the Bullet Comparator with an insert installed on the micrometer, close the jaws on the the micrometer. The case mouth and comparator hole should be in alignment. If not, rotate one of the 2 180 degrees. This will give you the proper orientation between the two items.
No one ever mentions this in their review or reloading process. I didn't realize this until I saw a vid specially made to inform everyone of this.
So, thank you for informing everyone of this important little bit of info that everyone should know.
WM
I use this and it works great. Couple it with the headspace gauge, that looks very similar, and you've got the tools to really develop some great loads. These are a must in my opinion.
Exactly right. Case length is just as important as bullet seating depth. It would be better if he demonstrated headspacing from the shoulder first to get that right before even bothering with seating depth.
These tools do add up in cost, but---you only have to buy it once--it will last a lifetime. Down the road, using different guns, different bullets, it gives you the means to measure all the differences, and they do exist. Bullets vary lot to lot, sometimes mfgrs make a change without saying anything about it. They give you the ability to measure case base to shoulder datum lengths, and adjust your sizing dies properly, and can save headaches with brass fit in a gun, brass life as well. They will educate you about all the aspects of variables in the components you use, and the guns you use them in. In the long run, a cheap investment.
Excellent share as always. Cheers
I always found the curved one harder use. I go with the straight one whenever possible!
I bought mine back when they were still branded Stoney Point.
So did I.
It's an excellent tool.
I went another route, making dummy rounds with each bullet at my preferred length found with my Stoney Point gauge that I load instead to use in my seating die.
However, I'll probably get t bullet comparator so that I don't have all those dummy rounds to store and keep from corroding.
Others suggest zeroing out the measurement with the comparator in the measuring tool. You didn't mention that. Just checkin'...
I find your videos very educational thank you for your time.
Yeah they’re far better than some of those infomercial ones
You can send in two of your fired cases and Hornady will make you a modified case for your exact chamber. It is only a few bucks. I also recommend the tools for measuring your shoulder bump when sizing brass. These tools are a must have and will not break the bank.
Denny Baum , you can just measure a fired cases headspace and headspace of the hornady modified case and add the difference to the value you get from the modified case.
I bought the required drill bit & tap. Make my own now from cleaned fired brass (not resized). Each bullet type is kept in its own labeled tiny baggie within the modified case baggie.
Excellent explanation. Thank you!
Your right about the inserts , I found that using the Hornady 30 cal insert with a 168gr Hornady Amax projectile that the projectile makes no contact at all at any point on the inside of the insert hole , in fact the bullet goes all the way in until the point of the bullet hits the base of the insert holder . I cannot understand why Hornady dose not make a special insert for its long sleek projectiles such as the Amax . I’m think of buying a Sinclair insert to try to see if it works . The problem could be that the hole in the insert is larger than 30 cal , I’ll try to measure it to see if that is the case . Would I be able to get any valid measurements if I use the the .284 cal insert with .308 cal Hornady Amax bullet ?
Woah I never heard of that. I know on a few the Forster Data Dial had a few different diameters, but I don't remember any not fitting at all!
Fantastic video
Thanks!
There is now a seven piece bullet comparator set which includes the 6.5 mm insert.
...but there are still a bunch of six-piece sets out there!
Yea that tool will probably get you within 10 thousands of the overall length of your cartridge. Remember that the modified case didn’t go through your sizing die so likely has a different base to shoulder datum length. Also when you full length size a case and chamber it the shoulder of the case will not likely be resting against the chamber shoulder. As it would be if you used this device. So you don’t have an accurate measurement of where the bullet contacts the rifling. Looks like a good tool for reference though.
What rifle is that? I love the idea of an AR style BA in 6.5CM
I believe it's a AR-10 lower with a bolt action upper. I know you can purchase an bolt action upper for AR-10 and AR-15 from Uintah Precision with a 6.5 creedmoor for around 1,300.
They don't have a 6.5 Creedmoor modified case on your affiliate link.
They might be out of stock on it. It is for all calibers.
For 6mm arc, is the .243 comparator the one to use? Thsnks.
Is there a way to do the seating depth measurement without the OAL gauge but just the comparator?
Would the stem in the seating dye have to be exactly the same diameter as the comparator you use to check CBTO length.
Is that working with the 9 mm luger ? Thank's
Do you happen to remember how many rounds was through that rifle to erode the throat by .040?
Thanks for the video, btw. It is very helpful along with so many of your other videos. You are one of my go-to guys!
They do not list .452.
Can you use the .458 for the .452?
Comment that was excellent, I have the Hornady comparator set the 6.5 CM is what number insert 263 ?? Thank you buddy
I just watched this video an was going over the comments an noticed no reply .Not sure if you found it yet for any 6.5 you will need 5-26.. You would think they would help us out an list it just like case holders they give you a number but no calibers for the numbered case holder.
Is the compariter base the same as the headspace measure base
Yes
What’s the difference between these and headspace set?
These are used to measure off the ogive of the projectile for getting consistent seating measurements.
@@BoltActionReloading thank you. I just got my apex 10 set up a couple days ago and only thing I’ve made are 9mm. Hoping to 223/308 setup next week on it.
Do you have to use the anvil base when checking for your cbto?
It's not mandatory some people it helps to line it up and others don't like it.
@@BoltActionReloading thank you for the response!! Much appreciated.
Hi Steve, happy to help.
Hornady inserts are made of aluminum and may change over time. Compatible Sinclair inserts are stainless with a machined taper instead of just a drilled hole and are extremely consistent
Keep one round as a prototype
What are insert do I need for 308? 8-30 right? Looking to buy Separate along with the 6.5 insert
The 308 is the 8-30 and the 6.5 is the 5-26,
Bolt Action Reloading thank you for all the content you put out. It’s been very useful.
which is for 270 win, 6-27 or 7-28? I don't understand theri numbering system. thanks
These gauges along with any other gauge like this one, gives a false readings.
"It seems reasonable to think that the diameter of the throat erodes."
John Whidden
Not sure what your "false readings" are. Its a comparator. The measurement it reads is not as important as that you can again make it what it was before or know how one thing relates to another.