The wonderful quality of your content, details, audio, video, efficiently used time, explanations, and information on parts has really raised the bar for all other channels on RUclips to follow. Subbed and liked long before the end of the video!
Been thinking about installing one in my raider also. Until now I had only seen one video of someone doing it. Didnt like the way it was done. Now I've seen your way. Which looks much more cleaner and simple.
Its a great upgrade to the bass raider. Fished in a heavy storm recently and the drain worked perfectly. I kept it unplugged the whole day on the water.
Lot of work and I commend you for it. Being lazy I used a Shurflow 12 volt pump that remains onboard and attaches straight to my battery. It has its pros and cons. Pros: It is fine in the outside elements. It is mounted and ready to use if needed. It only draws 4.5 amps It can move 1.8 GPM with a MAX of 6.8 It made my wife happy. Cons: Price at about $120.00 Weight of 4lbs More Wiring to deal with. The one I selected was the 8000-547-189 and I am sure there has to be a lighter one out there that would fit the bill. Happy FISHING!!!!!
I am new to boating (and somewhat technologically challenged when it comes to online posting). I tried commenting on this topic once before, and, I believe I lost the comment somewhere in cyberspace during the attempt. This is a second attempt. I watched this video (and some others) when I was trying to decide if I wanted to drill a hole in my new Bass Raider10e and found this video to be instructive and helpful. Before inserting the hollow plastic scupper hole bolt I wanted to have a shim/spacer in the inner hull, between the floor of the boat and its bottom, to prevent crushing the plastic in the empty space when I tightened the large plastic nut. I saw another boater’s video using a printed C-shaped insert that seemed to work but appeared difficult to insert into the inner haul; the video suggested using that spacer divided into a few thinner sections. I thought I would try my own homemade spacer cut from a piece of PVC pipe. I am now attempting to cut and paste (see below) a description of my very simple shim/spacer and how I did the installation. I do NOT know if it will work and I am NOT saying that it is even a good idea, only that it is food for thought. I will attempt to include a couple of photos of the shim/spacer IF I can figure out how to do that. So, I made a simple split shim/spacer that I could insert between the upper and lower hull-shell halves of a Pelican Bass Raider 10e. Hopefully, this will prove to be a solution to the problem of: “how do you easily get a shim/spacer, that has a larger diameter than the holes you drilled through the floor and bottom of your boat, placed around the perimeter of the holes, and placed between the upper and lower hull-shell halves (inside the hull), when there is no other point of access for the shim/spacer?” The steps I followed in my installation are outlined below. 1. Drill a 1 and 5/16-inch diameter hole (THIS SIZE ONLY APPLIES FOR THE SIZE OF THE PIECE I INSTALLED IN MY BOAT - ADJUST SIZE FOR YOUR APPLICATION) in the floor of the boat and one through the bottom of the boat for the hollow plastic scupper hole bolt to pass through. 2. Accurately measure (with calipers) the space between the upper and lower hull-shell halves in several places around the perimeter of the holes you drilled. Take a few measurements because the distance between the upper and lower shell halves on my boat varied from about 5/8-inch on one side of the holes to about a half-inch on the opposite side (apparently due to slope and possibly slight irregularities in the molded plastic). 3. Cut a circular spacer from a piece of PVC pipe that has an inside diameter of just over 1 and 5/16 inches (AGAIN, ADJUST THESE SIZES TO SUIT YOUR APPLICATION). Grind down the width of the spacer (measuring with calipers) to accommodate the variance (from ½” to 5/8”) in the empty space between the shell halves. 4. Drill a few small holes, about 1/8-inch diameter, around the perimeter of the plastic spacer. You will use these holes to reach between the upper and lower shell halves with a nail to turn and position the spacer for best fit once it is inserted between the shell halves; just stick the point of the nail into the 1/8-inch holes to rotate the spacer. 5. Next, use a hacksaw to cut completely through the spacer AT ONLY ONE POINT around the spacer’s perimeter. Make the cut at about a 45 to 50-degree angle ACROSS THE WIDTH OF THE SPACER so that the spacer now has two sharp pointed ends that are separated but nearly touching each other; the spacer is still in one piece but cut in the middle (kind of like a lock washer only with very pointed ends rather than flat 90-degree ends). Use a black marker to mark over the saw cut on the inside and outside of the spacer so you can easily see it when installing as you look down through the hole in the boat floor. 6. Run about a foot of mono fishing line through one of the 1/8-inch nail holes and tie the ends together to make a loop. You will leave the mono line sticking out of the hole you drilled in the floor of the boat after you insert the spacer between the upper and lower hull-shell halves. This is just a precautionary measure so you do not accidentally lose the spacer down inside the boat where you will never see it again. 7. Clean the boat plastic (I used just a little acetone) around the 1 and 5/16-inch holes in the floor and the bottom of the boat and clean any dirty or oily stuff off the plastic scupper hole pieces where they will contact the surface of the boat. 8. Put marine sealant (I used 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 5200 White) around the bottom of the plastic bolt head of the scupper piece and around the top of the plastic nut (where it presses against the bottom of the boat) on the other end. Try not to make a big mess and use rubber gloves and a face mask and try not get the sealant all over your clothes, tools and glasses (if you wear them). 9. Next, gently pry and separate the two sharp pointy ends of the shim/spacer and place something (maybe a small wood chip) about 1/4-inch thick between them on the top side of the spacer so one sharp pointed end (sloping down) is sticking out. 10. Next, turn the spacer at angle and insert the sharp pointed end into, and along the edge of, the 1 and 5/16-inch (or your size) hole in the boat’s floor. Wiggle the spacer around, turn it in a circle (as if the pointed end is the start of a bolt thread and you are trying to screw it into a nut). Turn and “screw” the spacer into the hole until it pops through the hole and is now wedged between the boat floor and the bottom of the boat and surrounding the 1 and 5/16-inch hole as you look at it from the top. Use a nail and the mono line to rotate and position the spacer exactly where you want to be for best fit. It took me about 30 to 45 seconds to complete Step 10. 11. Insert the large plastic bolt (that is the main part of the scupper piece) into the 1 and 5/16-inch (or your size) hole in the floor of the boat. But, before you push the head of the plastic bolt (now dressed with marine sealant) down against the floor of the boat, cut and pull out the mono line. Or, if you are confident and careful, you can remove the mono line just before you insert the large plastic bolt - just don’t bump the spacer and lose it inside the hull before you get the large plastic bolt through it. 12. Push the large plastic scupper bolt through the hull, screw the large plastic nut (dressed with sealant) on the other end, squeezing against the shim/spacer (THAT IS NOW INSIDE THE HULL), and carefully tighten the large plastic nut while holding the bolt head in place (do not over tighten). Clean up excess sealant. You may want to add some sealant around the edge of the nut (on the bottom of the boat) or the bolt head (on the floor of the boat). Try not to get any sealant in the scupper hole and quickly and carefully clean it out if you do - remember the scupper needs to be clean so the plug will fit well and seal off water. 13. Clean up your mess. Let the sealant cure per the manufacturer’s instructions (I waited 72 hours) and then put the plug in the scupper hole.
In my opinion it's not needed because that part of the boat is not load bearing. I think it's been two years now and I've had no issues with the plastic flexing. The only thing I may do is add more sealant than I originally did at the top only as an extra precaution. I was a little stingy with the sealant up top. I can only speak from my experience but no issues so far.
It's good to have that update. I was a little nervous about drilling a hole in this boat but your video and some others convinced me that the scupper hole is well worth having. THANKS! @@BassBrothersFishingDMV
I got my 10e almost a year ago and im just now mod’ing it. So glad to see this video! Im gonna check out your other mods as well! Thanks for the ideas and great video!
I use a 10ft x 15ft "fish pond liner" to cover my Bass Raider instead of the cheap Poly tarps. The pond liners are usually black in color which become extremely hot during sunny days if the boat is stored in direct, Non shaded sunlight, so using plywood under the tarp helps to keep the heat off the boat, and, the pond liner can possibly be painted a lighter color. But, the pool liner I bought at lowes has lasted me 10 years now with no cracking, tearing and no leaking. Fabric woven Poly tarps don't usually hold up very long to wind and / or freezing temps.
I think I would have used some insulation in a can as a circular wall around the hole you drilled. But you did a fantastic job and I am now confident that I can drill a hole in mine and not have any issues. I bought my plastic molded boat back in the early 90’s and had made a lot of mods back then, but RUclips has opened my eyes as to what I can do with my little molded boat. Thanks for sharing!
Just found your channel. Very informative! Thinking about getting the Pelican 10e. Bought a large Kayak from Bass Pro and took it out once, hated it.... I am 55 years old and need something a lot more stable! Thanks for the content!
I hear you man. That's exactly why I chose the bassraider over a kayak. It's more stable and I can stand and fish all day if I want to. All small boats take some getting used to but once you do it's golden.
Nicely done. Thanks. One can also drill a pilot hole through the inner and outer hulls for the hole saw bit, so if the hole saw bit is not long enough the lower hole can be created from the bottom. Also, one YT contributor used a sheet of rubber gasket material instead of the gel adhesive. That makes removal of the scupper plug a snap. BTW, I had the same problem with trying to drain water from the boat; I used a drill powered pump (Harbor Freight) to suck the water from the boat, BUT the real PITA was GALLONS and GALLONS of water inside the HULLS. I used two cans of Flex Seal applied at the seam where the upper and lower hull clam shells are joined; hope it works. Another point about the Bass Raider: you will not find another boat anywhere near as inexpensive; pedal fishing kayaks easily cost several hundred dollars more.
My bad man I've been watching you for three months now. I picked up 10e last week and just realized i wasn't subscribed. Thanks forvthe videos love the content.
I did this to mine but I wish I would have just put a small bilge pump instead. There’s some that fit perfectly in that spot and don’t need to drill a hole.
Great idea & execution 👍 I have the same 10e, with this same inconvenience !! I wish they had the same plastic drain that sits flush on top ( like my tub/shower drain ) but I also couldn't find one. I think what I'm going try, instead of the expensive MESSY silicone/sealant, I'm going to make a gasket for the top & bottom. A sheet of rubber ( Amazon of course 🤦♂😁) thick enough, cheap, and less mess. I have large O-rings set, I may even try those and see if it adequately seals. May need something in between the upper & lower hulls.... Otherwise I may end up you're route anyway !!! Again looks good, and clearly serves the needed purpose.
I've been at that drain plug on my deck I bought a few months back , just need to get the 5/8" plug. I have the other items but kind of 'chickened out'. I think I have the nerve and know how to do it now. thank you for the nice video bro.
No prob. Its an awesome upgrade. The plug is good to have but optional. I fish in a rain storm recently and kept the plug open the whole day and the water never came in more than around the plug. Still good to have though.
@@marchufnagel9068 I've researched the 5200 glue. A lot of users with HDPE plastic, but not a "true" bond. I used it anyway, because I thought plastic welding would look like crap, (and worked for Bass Bros). That being said, if you flash the surface with a torch, it will take bond better...so sayeth those with more experience than I (boat repair pros). It took about 2 seconds to do...just enough to make the surface look duller than it was when you started out. Do not burn or bubble/warp. You can practice on your hole cut-out for practice if needed.
I'd recommend sealing the threads of the nut to the bolt/tube. The thread can be tight, and still not be water tight. It looks like you got enough sealant under the nut where some of it got squeezed into the thread, but that is not a definite seal of the threads.
Looks like it should work, good idea ! I am buying a bass raider this year if I can find one and can’t wait. I wanted something I could throw in the back of my truck so this will work. Thanks for sharing
@@BassBrothersFishingDMV good deal glad it worked out. I tried to go out today but naturally i didn't make it. supposta rain tomorrow i might go anyhow wanna try out my Garmin!
@@BassBrothersFishingDMV I just happened to catch the same thru-hull connector on sale last week at Academy for $3.99, so time for me to copy your mod.
I would probably do something in that little intention so that the water couldn’t stand in it try to build it up so that water could completely drain out maybe use some calk or something to build it up and make like a funnel with the drain in the middle. Nice video
Great video BBF. I have had the same approach in terms of not putting holes my Raider. I need one of these though. This video has convinced me to do it. I have the same issues with water in the bottom etc after hard rains. Great job putting links in as well. Thanks for doing this video and have a great season. Once I get it done, I will Definitely shout you guys out. Thanks again and FISH ON!
Thanks man. Believe it or not it also can be left unplugged while you are fishing for rain fishing situations. I tried it and water drains out. At best I have some water in the little circle cutout. But yes, draining the boat after a heavy rain sucks. Tight lines bud
Enjoyed your video. My only concern is the 3/4 inch gap separating the hull layers. Looks to me like you would need some sort of 3/4 inch thick spacer between the two layers of plastic for strength & rigidity. If one layer were to flex without the other flexing, it would break the bond and let water in. Is there any way strengthen this part of the hull to prevent this?
That's a good point. For me I feel ok about it because of where the scupper is located. Non load bearing area. But that's me. Nothing is gauranteed with DIY stuff. You just gotta do your best and hope it lasts lol.
Great video! I will be adding this to my Bass Raider soon. Semi-related question. Did you seal the top and bottom halves at all to prevent water getting into the pontoons?
@@BassBrothersFishingDMV Thanks for the quick reply! Is it as simple as removing the molding and adding 5200 around the crack and put the molding back? Did you also seal the 'staples'?
@@davidblizzard4628 I put the 5200 around the hole I drilled out as well as around the thru hull fitting and screwed it tight against the boat. I didn't seal the stakes that hold the actual boat together.
@@BassBrothersFishingDMV Got it! I have read people saying that water gets in where the hull meets the pontoons (top and bottom) and they have to drain the pontoons so I was curious. Thanks again and keep the videos coming!
@@davidblizzard4628 there is always that chance wirh a plastic boat that flexes. 5200 is the beat stuff it there so tighten up the fitting and done be shy with the 5200. Nothing is perfect but that will increase the odds of leakage.
OMG, just as I was cringing for you as the drill came out...COMMERCIAL...Either way I am liking your scupper better than Zoffinger's because I don't trust heating the plastic...I'm a plastic welding noob, and not experimenting on my only boat!!!
I saw that video too and wasn't comfortable with plastic welding. If you watch the next video I posted you'll see me fish in a rainstorm and I show how the water drains out by itself. In really happy with this mod.
@@BassBrothersFishingDMV My brutha from another mutha...best time to go is when you don't have to share the water. Time to order my scupper parts. Thanks again!
It is getting close to 2 years since you’ve done this modification. How is the adhesion of the sealant performing? Any leaks? I believe you used 3M 5200. Correct? I’m back and forth on what to try for sealants on my Ram-X HMWMP plastic.
Thanks. It took me a long time to get comfortable don't this mod. So I made this video as detailed as possible to help others gain the confidence they need to do it. The boat should come like this from the factory lol
Nice clean job with the drain! I've seen a couple of guy's use silicone or neoprene gaskets instead of the 3M sealant. I was wondering what your thoughts on that might be? Thanks!
So I just picked up this boat at bass pro shop in sunny co cal. Last one anywhere in so cal to be had right now. Drove 100 miles to get her. I know you waited quite awhile before doing any mod that required a hole in the boat. But since you have trail blazed this mod for us Raiders, I wanted your opinions whetheror not this could be a mod to just go ahead and do right out the gate on a new boat. I’m a woodworker so am very comfortable using tools. Not done much marine sealing and what not but it seemed pretty straight forward. I guess what I’m saying is, given what you know now, would you just go for it or would you still wait?
I waited only because it was all new to me and putting a hole in the boat just seemed too risky. Now that I've done it I realize it was all in my head. Totally up to you. Just keep an eye out for water collecting from rain storms while you're not looking lol.
Is the drain hole higher up than the floor? It looks like it on the video. I always store mine upside down. I rather not do that but if the hole is higher it will still hold some water unless you tilt it. Thanks
Love your videos brother you are awesome wish you lived near me I would pay you to do all my mods great video I just have a pickup would it be easy to pull off the truck and drag it into the the water by myself? Because I'm a waterfowl Hunter don't want to be dealing with trailers where I go have a great day
I used foam tiles on top of 1/2" plywood. It's an awesome, comfortable and affordable solution for covering the hard boat floor. Here is our affiliate link to the exact foam I used. This link helps us out if you purchase it from Amazon. amzn.to/41d9cEF
@@asaabadie3141 I figured it out and this is gonna sound silly. You have to wet the plug first. Then it slides right in flush. 5/8 fits perfectly now lol I tested this by using a dry plug and a wet one. Dry one wouldn’t go in. Wet one slide right in
Good video. I did it just like you said and it worked fine. However, my academy dosnt sell the correct plug. Your description below says 5/8 but none I’ve found work. And the part number dose not cahow up on Amazon. Anybody out there send some suggestions where to get one.
Excellent question. Don't make the mistake I did not having the store fill out the certificate of origin. So yes. BPS should fill it out before you leave so you'll have it to register the boat.
@@BassBrothersFishingDMV Thanks but i got the boat BPS online, they tall me download form pelican website, they send me the link, Does BPS put a stamp or something? or just the signature that come on the certificate from manufacture? they send me this link www.pelicansport.com/us_en/manufacturer-statement-of-origin Please could you check if look similar yours? THanks
@@usermiamiusa I bought mine a few months ago on Amazon, but had to have a replacement sent. The original came with a declaration of origin separate from the manual (or the one you can download from website) while the replacement only came with the manual. So for my replacement, I filled out the information on the declaration of origin that comes within the manual and it has a printed signature on it from the manufacturer (as well as the downloadable sheet from website). This was sufficient for me to register the boat. I live in Michigan. I just needed proof of purchase (receipt) and the origin sheet.
@@BassBrothersFishingDMV oh ok I wasn’t aware of that. Thanks for your input. Just bought one but I live in Kansas City so mostly just fresh water here anyways.
@@rubbingisracing1 Thanks. One tip I do have is to use more sealant on the inside of the boat than I did. Just to play it extra safe. No issues with my boat. Just something to consider.
I see what you are saying. My driveway is on a tilt so I have to park the boat front in so water will drain out the plug. If a plug was on both ends it wouldn't matter which direction the boat is facing. Good tip. 👍🏾🤙🏾
Glad you showed the thickness of the hole. I was worried about that. Thank you!
No problem. That was what I had trouble researching myself.
Nice! I used expanding foam for the in-between gap
Thanks Man , I'm gonna do this for my boat tomorrow. Excellent Video
The wonderful quality of your content, details, audio, video, efficiently used time, explanations, and information on parts has really raised the bar for all other channels on RUclips to follow. Subbed and liked long before the end of the video!
Thanks. Appreciate the feedback. Welcome to the channel. Stay tuned for more content like this.
Very easy to follow video, thank you for a very needed upgrade!!!
Been thinking about installing one in my raider also. Until now I had only seen one video of someone doing it. Didnt like the way it was done. Now I've seen your way. Which looks much more cleaner and simple.
Its a great upgrade to the bass raider. Fished in a heavy storm recently and the drain worked perfectly. I kept it unplugged the whole day on the water.
Wow that's actually a really cool idea gotta do this once I finally pick one of these boats up
Lot of work and I commend you for it. Being lazy I used a Shurflow 12 volt pump that remains onboard and attaches straight to my battery. It has its pros and cons.
Pros:
It is fine in the outside elements.
It is mounted and ready to use if needed.
It only draws 4.5 amps
It can move 1.8 GPM with a MAX of 6.8
It made my wife happy.
Cons:
Price at about $120.00
Weight of 4lbs
More Wiring to deal with.
The one I selected was the 8000-547-189 and I am sure there has to be a lighter one out there that would fit the bill.
Happy FISHING!!!!!
Another outstanding video!! Thank you. Just bought my Bass Raider yesterday. Your videos made the decision easy. Can’t wait to do the mods. Thanks!
I am new to boating (and somewhat technologically challenged when it comes to online posting). I tried commenting on this topic once before, and, I believe I lost the comment somewhere in cyberspace during the attempt. This is a second attempt. I watched this video (and some others) when I was trying to decide if I wanted to drill a hole in my new Bass Raider10e and found this video to be instructive and helpful.
Before inserting the hollow plastic scupper hole bolt I wanted to have a shim/spacer in the inner hull, between the floor of the boat and its bottom, to prevent crushing the plastic in the empty space when I tightened the large plastic nut. I saw another boater’s video using a printed C-shaped insert that seemed to work but appeared difficult to insert into the inner haul; the video suggested using that spacer divided into a few thinner sections. I thought I would try my own homemade spacer cut from a piece of PVC pipe. I am now attempting to cut and paste (see below) a description of my very simple shim/spacer and how I did the installation. I do NOT know if it will work and I am NOT saying that it is even a good idea, only that it is food for thought. I will attempt to include a couple of photos of the shim/spacer IF I can figure out how to do that.
So, I made a simple split shim/spacer that I could insert between the upper and lower hull-shell halves of a Pelican Bass Raider 10e. Hopefully, this will prove to be a solution to the problem of: “how do you easily get a shim/spacer, that has a larger diameter than the holes you drilled through the floor and bottom of your boat, placed around the perimeter of the holes, and placed between the upper and lower hull-shell halves (inside the hull), when there is no other point of access for the shim/spacer?” The steps I followed in my installation are outlined below.
1. Drill a 1 and 5/16-inch diameter hole (THIS SIZE ONLY APPLIES FOR THE SIZE OF THE PIECE I INSTALLED IN MY BOAT - ADJUST SIZE FOR YOUR APPLICATION) in the floor of the boat and one through the bottom of the boat for the hollow plastic scupper hole bolt to pass through.
2. Accurately measure (with calipers) the space between the upper and lower hull-shell halves in several places around the perimeter of the holes you drilled. Take a few measurements because the distance between the upper and lower shell halves on my boat varied from about 5/8-inch on one side of the holes to about a half-inch on the opposite side (apparently due to slope and possibly slight irregularities in the molded plastic).
3. Cut a circular spacer from a piece of PVC pipe that has an inside diameter of just over 1 and 5/16 inches (AGAIN, ADJUST THESE SIZES TO SUIT YOUR APPLICATION). Grind down the width of the spacer (measuring with calipers) to accommodate the variance (from ½” to 5/8”) in the empty space between the shell halves.
4. Drill a few small holes, about 1/8-inch diameter, around the perimeter of the plastic spacer. You will use these holes to reach between the upper and lower shell halves with a nail to turn and position the spacer for best fit once it is inserted between the shell halves; just stick the point of the nail into the 1/8-inch holes to rotate the spacer.
5. Next, use a hacksaw to cut completely through the spacer AT ONLY ONE POINT around the spacer’s perimeter. Make the cut at about a 45 to 50-degree angle ACROSS THE WIDTH OF THE SPACER so that the spacer now has two sharp pointed ends that are separated but nearly touching each other; the spacer is still in one piece but cut in the middle (kind of like a lock washer only with very pointed ends rather than flat 90-degree ends). Use a black marker to mark over the saw cut on the inside and outside of the spacer so you can easily see it when installing as you look down through the hole in the boat floor.
6. Run about a foot of mono fishing line through one of the 1/8-inch nail holes and tie the ends together to make a loop. You will leave the mono line sticking out of the hole you drilled in the floor of the boat after you insert the spacer between the upper and lower hull-shell halves. This is just a precautionary measure so you do not accidentally lose the spacer down inside the boat where you will never see it again.
7. Clean the boat plastic (I used just a little acetone) around the 1 and 5/16-inch holes in the floor and the bottom of the boat and clean any dirty or oily stuff off the plastic scupper hole pieces where they will contact the surface of the boat.
8. Put marine sealant (I used 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 5200 White) around the bottom of the plastic bolt head of the scupper piece and around the top of the plastic nut (where it presses against the bottom of the boat) on the other end. Try not to make a big mess and use rubber gloves and a face mask and try not get the sealant all over your clothes, tools and glasses (if you wear them).
9. Next, gently pry and separate the two sharp pointy ends of the shim/spacer and place something (maybe a small wood chip) about 1/4-inch thick between them on the top side of the spacer so one sharp pointed end (sloping down) is sticking out.
10. Next, turn the spacer at angle and insert the sharp pointed end into, and along the edge of, the 1 and 5/16-inch (or your size) hole in the boat’s floor. Wiggle the spacer around, turn it in a circle (as if the pointed end is the start of a bolt thread and you are trying to screw it into a nut). Turn and “screw” the spacer into the hole until it pops through the hole and is now wedged between the boat floor and the bottom of the boat and surrounding the 1 and 5/16-inch hole as you look at it from the top. Use a nail and the mono line to rotate and position the spacer exactly where you want to be for best fit. It took me about 30 to 45 seconds to complete Step 10.
11. Insert the large plastic bolt (that is the main part of the scupper piece) into the 1 and 5/16-inch (or your size) hole in the floor of the boat. But, before you push the head of the plastic bolt (now dressed with marine sealant) down against the floor of the boat, cut and pull out the mono line. Or, if you are confident and careful, you can remove the mono line just before you insert the large plastic bolt - just don’t bump the spacer and lose it inside the hull before you get the large plastic bolt through it.
12. Push the large plastic scupper bolt through the hull, screw the large plastic nut (dressed with sealant) on the other end, squeezing against the shim/spacer (THAT IS NOW INSIDE THE HULL), and carefully tighten the large plastic nut while holding the bolt head in place (do not over tighten). Clean up excess sealant. You may want to add some sealant around the edge of the nut (on the bottom of the boat) or the bolt head (on the floor of the boat). Try not to get any sealant in the scupper hole and quickly and carefully clean it out if you do - remember the scupper needs to be clean so the plug will fit well and seal off water.
13. Clean up your mess. Let the sealant cure per the manufacturer’s instructions (I waited 72 hours) and then put the plug in the scupper hole.
In my opinion it's not needed because that part of the boat is not load bearing. I think it's been two years now and I've had no issues with the plastic flexing. The only thing I may do is add more sealant than I originally did at the top only as an extra precaution. I was a little stingy with the sealant up top. I can only speak from my experience but no issues so far.
It's good to have that update. I was a little nervous about drilling a hole in this boat but your video and some others convinced me that the scupper hole is well worth having. THANKS! @@BassBrothersFishingDMV
I got my 10e almost a year ago and im just now mod’ing it. So glad to see this video! Im gonna check out your other mods as well! Thanks for the ideas and great video!
I use a 10ft x 15ft "fish pond liner" to cover my Bass Raider instead of the cheap Poly tarps. The pond liners are usually black in color which become extremely hot during sunny days if the boat is stored in direct, Non shaded sunlight, so using plywood under the tarp helps to keep the heat off the boat, and, the pond liner can possibly be painted a lighter color. But, the pool liner I bought at lowes has lasted me 10 years now with no cracking, tearing and no leaking. Fabric woven Poly tarps don't usually hold up very long to wind and / or freezing temps.
Thanks! Getting ready to do the same. Had wondered also about the thickness.
I think I would have used some insulation in a can as a circular wall around the hole you drilled. But you did a fantastic job and I am now confident that I can drill a hole in mine and not have any issues.
I bought my plastic molded boat back in the early 90’s and had made a lot of mods back then, but RUclips has opened my eyes as to what I can do with my little molded boat. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks.
Just found your channel. Very informative! Thinking about getting the Pelican 10e. Bought a large Kayak from Bass Pro and took it out once, hated it.... I am 55 years old and need something a lot more stable! Thanks for the content!
I hear you man. That's exactly why I chose the bassraider over a kayak. It's more stable and I can stand and fish all day if I want to. All small boats take some getting used to but once you do it's golden.
Great mod- followed your parts list and instructions and it worked perfectly. Thanks for this video.
Awesome man. 👍🏾
Thank you so much for all the measurements. Taking all the guess work out of it,
All good. I figured that would help folks out.
Nicely done. Thanks. One can also drill a pilot hole through the inner and outer hulls for the hole saw bit, so if the hole saw bit is not long enough the lower hole can be created from the bottom. Also, one YT contributor used a sheet of rubber gasket material instead of the gel adhesive. That makes removal of the scupper plug a snap. BTW, I had the same problem with trying to drain water from the boat; I used a drill powered pump (Harbor Freight) to suck the water from the boat, BUT the real PITA was GALLONS and GALLONS of water inside the HULLS. I used two cans of Flex Seal applied at the seam where the upper and lower hull clam shells are joined; hope it works. Another point about the Bass Raider: you will not find another boat anywhere near as inexpensive; pedal fishing kayaks easily cost several hundred dollars more.
You are so right. Tight lines my friend.
Wish your comment was longer than 4 months ago. How is the Flex Seal performing? Do you still need to drain it any?
@@David-lf2ne So far, so good. Sadly, the price of Flex Seal has increased.
My bad man I've been watching you for three months now. I picked up 10e last week and just realized i wasn't subscribed. Thanks forvthe videos love the content.
Ha ha. Appreciate the Sub. Thanks for reaching out!!!
Perfect video. Thank you.
I did this to mine but I wish I would have just put a small bilge pump instead. There’s some that fit perfectly in that spot and don’t need to drill a hole.
Great idea & execution 👍 I have the same 10e, with this same inconvenience !! I wish they had the same plastic drain that sits flush on top ( like my tub/shower drain ) but I also couldn't find one. I think what I'm going try, instead of the expensive MESSY silicone/sealant, I'm going to make a gasket for the top & bottom. A sheet of rubber ( Amazon of course 🤦♂😁) thick enough, cheap, and less mess. I have large O-rings set, I may even try those and see if it adequately seals. May need something in between the upper & lower hulls.... Otherwise I may end up you're route anyway !!! Again looks good, and clearly serves the needed purpose.
Best video out there for this modification. I used your links and will follow along with you. Thanks.
Thanks 🤙🏾👍🏾
Thanks for the Amazon links! I couldn’t find that through drain anywhere
No problem 🤙🏾👍🏾
I've been at that drain plug on my deck I bought a few months back , just need to get the 5/8" plug. I have the other items but kind of 'chickened out'. I think I have the nerve and know how to do it now. thank you for the nice video bro.
No prob. Its an awesome upgrade. The plug is good to have but optional. I fish in a rain storm recently and kept the plug open the whole day and the water never came in more than around the plug. Still good to have though.
@@BassBrothersFishingDMV Just picked up the plug and it definitely won't fit in
that fitting. Hmm.
@@marchufnagel9068 I've researched the 5200 glue. A lot of users with HDPE plastic, but not a "true" bond. I used it anyway, because I thought plastic welding would look like crap, (and worked for Bass Bros). That being said, if you flash the surface with a torch, it will take bond better...so sayeth those with more experience than I (boat repair pros). It took about 2 seconds to do...just enough to make the surface look duller than it was when you started out. Do not burn or bubble/warp. You can practice on your hole cut-out for practice if needed.
Another great vid from the Man of Mods! Keep it up!
Thanks Ian.
I'd recommend sealing the threads of the nut to the bolt/tube. The thread can be tight, and still not be water tight. It looks like you got enough sealant under the nut where some of it got squeezed into the thread, but that is not a definite seal of the threads.
Great video!
Looks like it should work, good idea !
I am buying a bass raider this year if I can find one and can’t wait. I wanted something I could throw in the back of my truck so this will work.
Thanks for sharing
No problem Richard. It's a sweet little boat.
Thanks for the upload! This will be a great help! I had no idea that the hole was below the waterline!
Thanks. Yepp it is but not deep enough to create a problem.
@@BassBrothersFishingDMV good deal glad it worked out. I tried to go out today but naturally i didn't make it. supposta rain tomorrow i might go anyhow wanna try out my Garmin!
@@gewglesux Supposed to rain here too. Where are you located?
@@BassBrothersFishingDMV I'm in NY.. Long Island to be exact. I'll spend tonight rigging up. just got a Tranx.
@@gewglesux I'm about to rig up now myself. Gonna be a cold morning tomorrow too. Good luck. Tight lines. 🎣🐟
You nailed her clean pilgrim...(Will Gere quote)
Thanks 👍🏾🤙🏾
Excellent DIY video. Thanks for showing everything up close.
No problem. Happy to share!!!
@@BassBrothersFishingDMV I just happened to catch the same thru-hull connector on sale last week at Academy for $3.99, so time for me to copy your mod.
I would probably do something in that little intention so that the water couldn’t stand in it try to build it up so that water could completely drain out maybe use some calk or something to build it up and make like a funnel with the drain in the middle. Nice video
Thanks.
Great video BBF. I have had the same approach in terms of not putting holes my Raider. I need one of these though. This video has convinced me to do it. I have the same issues with water in the bottom etc after hard rains. Great job putting links in as well. Thanks for doing this video and have a great season. Once I get it done, I will Definitely shout you guys out. Thanks again and FISH ON!
Thanks man. Believe it or not it also can be left unplugged while you are fishing for rain fishing situations. I tried it and water drains out. At best I have some water in the little circle cutout. But yes, draining the boat after a heavy rain sucks. Tight lines bud
@@BassBrothersFishingDMV Good to know. Thanks BBF. Have a great fishing season.
@@fishingwithvance you too bro.
Enjoyed your video. My only concern is the 3/4 inch gap separating the hull layers. Looks to me like you would need some sort of 3/4 inch thick spacer between the two layers of plastic for strength & rigidity. If one layer were to flex without the other flexing, it would break the bond and let water in. Is there any way strengthen this part of the hull to prevent this?
That's a good point. For me I feel ok about it because of where the scupper is located. Non load bearing area. But that's me. Nothing is gauranteed with DIY stuff. You just gotta do your best and hope it lasts lol.
Thanks for video! Probably will do this. Do you have video on how you installed the paddle holders? Thx
Love the videos.
I have a bass tracker bantom x3
It comes with drain's and rod holders but I really appreciate this video.
Great video thanks . I'm going do the same on my boat thanks again
You're welcome. 😉
Got job explaining your processes for your mods
Thanks
I love it. Good show!
Thanks. 👍🏾🤙🏾
Great video! I will be adding this to my Bass Raider soon. Semi-related question. Did you seal the top and bottom halves at all to prevent water getting into the pontoons?
Yes I did.
@@BassBrothersFishingDMV Thanks for the quick reply! Is it as simple as removing the molding and adding 5200 around the crack and put the molding back? Did you also seal the 'staples'?
@@davidblizzard4628 I put the 5200 around the hole I drilled out as well as around the thru hull fitting and screwed it tight against the boat. I didn't seal the stakes that hold the actual boat together.
@@BassBrothersFishingDMV Got it! I have read people saying that water gets in where the hull meets the pontoons (top and bottom) and they have to drain the pontoons so I was curious. Thanks again and keep the videos coming!
@@davidblizzard4628 there is always that chance wirh a plastic boat that flexes. 5200 is the beat stuff it there so tighten up the fitting and done be shy with the 5200. Nothing is perfect but that will increase the odds of leakage.
Super job!! Thanks so much for info,
No prob 👍🏽
I'm proud of you and your brothers what type of go pro set up do you have???🙏🏽🙏🏽
Picked up mine this past Monday.
Awesome man. Very excited for you. Enjoy your new boat.
Good video, subbed, and rang the bell!!
On the plywood under the flooring, what is the thickness? Did you use pressure treated?
OMG, just as I was cringing for you as the drill came out...COMMERCIAL...Either way I am liking your scupper better than Zoffinger's because I don't trust heating the plastic...I'm a plastic welding noob, and not experimenting on my only boat!!!
I saw that video too and wasn't comfortable with plastic welding. If you watch the next video I posted you'll see me fish in a rainstorm and I show how the water drains out by itself. In really happy with this mod.
@@BassBrothersFishingDMV My brutha from another mutha...best time to go is when you don't have to share the water. Time to order my scupper parts. Thanks again!
Enjoy your videos great content! So I subscribed 👍🏻
Thanks 👍🏾🤙🏾
Great video! You are very intelligent man!
👍🏾
Loved the Mod.... Thank you.
Yessir!!!
Great, I am definitely buying one. Thank you!
No worries. Congrats
Looks like you did a great job. Would you have any tips on putting oar locks on the boat?
Nah. I just used velcro
It is getting close to 2 years since you’ve done this modification. How is the adhesion of the sealant performing? Any leaks? I believe you used 3M 5200. Correct? I’m back and forth on what to try for sealants on my Ram-X HMWMP plastic.
No leaks that I am aware of from the 3M 5200.
Excellent Nice Job will definitely use this
Plz confir the thru-fill calls for 1 1/8 hole..You used a 1 1/16 hole saw..Does the shaft fit the thru hole 1 1/16 hole or did you use a 1 1/8 bit?
I would contact the manufacturer for correct hole size. Or google the product.
Great job brother
Thanks. 👍🏾🤙🏾💯
Great step by step, yup, doing this soon!
Thanks. It took me a long time to get comfortable don't this mod. So I made this video as detailed as possible to help others gain the confidence they need to do it. The boat should come like this from the factory lol
@@BassBrothersFishingDMV step by step done well sir, and I agree, they should come with a scupper! Thankfully you took the plunge, and I’ll follow!
Great video, thank you
Nice clean job with the drain! I've seen a couple of guy's use silicone or neoprene gaskets instead of the 3M sealant. I was wondering what your thoughts on that might be? Thanks!
3M has worked great for me. I've never used silicone under the waterline.
I think I’m going to use both on drain , transducer mount bracket and other screw holes.
Love the Chanel...where did you get your trailer at? I’ve being looking but haven’t had any luck.
I bought it from Northern Tool. I did a full vid on the trailer on the channel. Link to vid ruclips.net/video/XnERvZS8z3w/видео.html.
I have a sundolfin bass boat thing it is just like that and it has a hole that drains for me
Nice. The bass raider should have it built in. Maybe they'll include it in future models.
Hi! What screws do you suggest I use to add accessories on a plastic boat? I have a BassTender 11.3
Great job
Can't wait to get mine, what size trolling motor do you use
Minn. Kota 55lb thrust.
So I just picked up this boat at bass pro shop in sunny co cal. Last one anywhere in so cal to be had right now. Drove 100 miles to get her. I know you waited quite awhile before doing any mod that required a hole in the boat. But since you have trail blazed this mod for us Raiders, I wanted your opinions whetheror not this could be a mod to just go ahead and do right out the gate on a new boat. I’m a woodworker so am very comfortable using tools. Not done much marine sealing and what not but it seemed pretty straight forward. I guess what I’m saying is, given what you know now, would you just go for it or would you still wait?
I waited only because it was all new to me and putting a hole in the boat just seemed too risky. Now that I've done it I realize it was all in my head. Totally up to you. Just keep an eye out for water collecting from rain storms while you're not looking lol.
how did your plug hold up? i saw that one other guy said his attwood broke after some use
Hell yeah dude!
yeah buddy!!!
Is the drain hole higher up than the floor? It looks like it on the video. I always store mine upside down. I rather not do that but if the hole is higher it will still hold some water unless you tilt it. Thanks
The drain plug is around 1/8 of am inch high. Water is minimal
Thank You.
Could you tell me the inside width of the bottom of the boat? I can’t seem to find the dimensions online anywhere.
I can’t seem to find the hole saw with the size 1-1/16
Hello, i saw all you videos about this boat. do you still recommend this?
thanks
Absolutely.
@@BassBrothersFishingDMV Great , i dont have a trailer, i saw you put over the car roof, look easy i will try
What kind of heavy duty Velcro did you use for your ores on the outside of the boat
www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Strength-Fasteners/dp/B00006IC2T/ref=as_li_ss_tl?crid=1PJ4T73O9K1W&dchild=1&keywords=velcro+90593&qid=1584897001&sprefix=velcro+90593,aps,131&sr=8-1&swrs=3E88969BE5D1C929CABB991388B736F4&linkCode=sl1&tag=bassbrothersf-20&linkId=cc861bf96fc07b34624ea820c5e7a24b&language=en_US
How is it holding up so far? I just bought a new bass raider today and this is a mod I wanted to do.
So far so good. No leaks. Very satisfied.
did it drain? like when the boat had water in the bottom? I was wondering if it really is the lowest point.
It drains great. The scupper plug has a small lip around it so you may have a little water left back but that evaporates on its own.
Love your videos brother you are awesome wish you lived near me I would pay you to do all my mods great video I just have a pickup would it be easy to pull off the truck and drag it into the the water by myself? Because I'm a waterfowl Hunter don't want to be dealing with trailers where I go have a great day
Thanks man. What state are you in?
@@BassBrothersFishingDMV PA Bethlehem
@@nagazinafireworks7594 well I'm around if you ever want me to work on your boat. You're about 3 hours away from me.
@@BassBrothersFishingDMV Thats good to know, thank you.
What did you use to fasten the velcro for your paddle
The velcro has adhesive backing
Good video, 🙏
Thanks 👍🏾🤙🏾
What kind of mat do you have on the floor of the boat?
I used foam tiles on top of 1/2" plywood. It's an awesome, comfortable and affordable solution for covering the hard boat floor. Here is our affiliate link to the exact foam I used. This link helps us out if you purchase it from Amazon. amzn.to/41d9cEF
I tried the 5/8 drain plug it was to large , can you tell me the correct drain plug size. Thanks
Did you figure out the correct size?
I tried 3/4 and 5/8. Both are too big
@@asaabadie3141 I figured it out and this is gonna sound silly. You have to wet the plug first. Then it slides right in flush. 5/8 fits perfectly now lol
I tested this by using a dry plug and a wet one. Dry one wouldn’t go in. Wet one slide right in
What kind of mats for floor
I have the same kind of mats. As I recall, I purchased them at Harbor Freight.
Good video. I did it just like you said and it worked fine. However, my academy dosnt sell the correct plug. Your description below says 5/8 but none I’ve found work. And the part number dose not cahow up on Amazon. Anybody out there send some suggestions where to get one.
I ordered mine from the academy website not the actual store.
Cool. My boat is almost ready. Do you want to see it. I’ve been thinking about posting my first video.
@@paulpinto9783 sure
About how much weight do you have including you & others out on the water?
around 550 pounds (2 people and gear)
@@BassBrothersFishingDMV Does this include the 2 batteries and trolling motor?
Hello, i just ordered this from Bass pro shop. my question is, i need to fill out the certificate of origin? or need to be the store? thanks
Excellent question. Don't make the mistake I did not having the store fill out the certificate of origin. So yes. BPS should fill it out before you leave so you'll have it to register the boat.
@@BassBrothersFishingDMV Thanks but i got the boat BPS online, they tall me download form pelican website, they send me the link, Does BPS put a stamp or something? or just the signature that come on the certificate from manufacture? they send me this link www.pelicansport.com/us_en/manufacturer-statement-of-origin
Please could you check if look similar yours? THanks
@@usermiamiusa I bought mine a few months ago on Amazon, but had to have a replacement sent. The original came with a declaration of origin separate from the manual (or the one you can download from website) while the replacement only came with the manual. So for my replacement, I filled out the information on the declaration of origin that comes within the manual and it has a printed signature on it from the manufacturer (as well as the downloadable sheet from website). This was sufficient for me to register the boat. I live in Michigan. I just needed proof of purchase (receipt) and the origin sheet.
@@jordanmizell4547 Did you just use the Amazon order invoice as the receipt?
@@NoFro-TL Yes, that's correct.
Hello, can i use this on salt water?
Honestly I don't think so but research that one more.
Shouldn’t be a problem. Just consider which motor will be best for your needs
@@waynewill801 keep in mind the top and bottom of the boat are kept together by heavy duty staples so salt water may corrode them over time.
@@BassBrothersFishingDMV oh ok I wasn’t aware of that. Thanks for your input. Just bought one but I live in Kansas City so mostly just fresh water here anyways.
This for rain? I just got me this boat
Yupp
2 years later how is that scupper working out. Thanks for your time
Just like day one.
I’m doing it. Love your videos. Family that fishes together stays together. One last cast.
Gabe
@@rubbingisracing1 Thanks. One tip I do have is to use more sealant on the inside of the boat than I did. Just to play it extra safe. No issues with my boat. Just something to consider.
What size trolling motor do you recommend?
For this boat 55lb thrust.
Why didn't they put one in our boats? Maybe they expect us to sip on the collected water while we fish?
Lol. Maybe.
It will be best if you have one on each end believe me/
I see what you are saying. My driveway is on a tilt so I have to park the boat front in so water will drain out the plug. If a plug was on both ends it wouldn't matter which direction the boat is facing. Good tip. 👍🏾🤙🏾
This is how they should come from the factory
I agree totally.
Sorry just watched. I don't see the parts list or directions. Must needed modification. Thanks. James
Its in the video description.
Sell it too meeee
Rule #1: there's no such thing as to much silicone 😂😂😂
So true 👍🏾
That is not silicone it's 5200
good video thanks.