This is excellent! I want the ready to play cab for sure. The site is absolutely fantastic and will of course consider ordering the amp in the same fashion.
Myself I've had great luck tacking one side of the cloth to one edge of the baffle(aligning baffle edge and cloth threads for a straight line,no need to crease cloth).I leave enough length to overhang a few inches on the other side and I staple that end to a strip of wood(threads lined up with strip's edge).With one side of cloth tacked down I simply pull the strip tight and hold the strip while I staple the other side.This way the strip keeps everything parallel/perpendicular so it looks very neat.I also get the benefit of a nice tight grill cloth(it is meant to protect the speaker cone after all).Be careful not to pull too tight as it can bow thinner baffles. On the remaining perpendicular sides you can simply pull the cloth by hand to align the threads with baffle edges and staple at that point.You don't want to pull too tight on the third edge(we already did 1&2) because you need to be able to pull the 4th edge into place.On the 4th edge you do it the same way but can pull a bit tighter if you like.The cloth get's trimmed at the end once it is stapled into place on all 4 sides. Also many grill fabrics for guitar amp can be made more taut by using heat from a hair dryer,go moderately as you can damage with prolonged heat.
These are great suggestions. A hair dryer takes longer than a paint-stripper heat gun but is WAAAAY safer. We here in the Lab, as well as several customers, have melted the cloth from time to time -- heartbreaking. Your stretching technique sounds good; thanks for sharing.
I want to use with a bass guitar too. In that case, If I build a sealed cabinet, it will help, or will sound horrible? For 8 inch speaker, it is ok 12 liters? (about 0,42 cubic feet)
The cabinet should not be completely sealed; bass moves a lot of air, and it will want somewhere to go. We could sell you two more pieces of wood for ports, to close off the back of the cabinet as much or as little as you like. The size of the port will affect the tone. It's a matter of taste. This cabinet is very compact. The cavity behind the cone and in front of the port wood is about 0.23 cubic feet.
The LM386 can drive most speakers. What matters to the amplifier is the impedance (the electrical load) of the speaker ...which is measured in ohms. The physical size of the speaker doesn't matter much to the amplifier. The LM386 can drive speakers with impedances anywhere from 4 ohms to 32 ohms. In this cabinet, the speaker has an 8 ohm load, so the LM386 could easily drive it.
Yes, you certainly could use dowels and plugs. Our goal was to equip the consumer with the easiest-possible-to-assemble kit, while not precluding him from using more advanced woodworking techniques. Even nicer than dowels are biscuits, as discussed in this forum thread: zeppelindesignlabs.com/forums/topic/biscuit-joints/ Biscuit joints have an advantage over dowels in that they are completely hidden.
Nope! It won't fit. The next time we produce a batch of these kits (next spring) we are considering offering a 1x10 and 1x12 version, with no speaker (because there's only so many different speakers we can stock). Would that be of interest to you?
Below, I think, is the link to the Percolator 2W Tube Amp playlist. All videos feature this 1x8 cabinet. ruclips.net/p/PLuhC2I9pYaqP29ayopOnxbBtOarnEnicQ
DO NOT screw the speaker in REALLY tight. They can warp extremely easily. You will have a buzzing speaker from the voice coil rubbing if it warps. If that happens,try rotating the speaker and screw back in (not as tight as you think it needs to be. Just snug). If rotating doesn’t even the speaker frame ,discard speaker.
Yes, that is true. Thanks for the heads up. All speakers relatively fragile with very tight tolerances of the voice coil and air gap. The screws are meant to be just tight enough to keep from vibrating out. I usually tighten them tight enough to just barely start compressing the mounting gasket...tightening them all gradually, while moving to the screw on the opposite side of the speaker...like tightening lug nuts on a wheel.
Yep. The written manual explains the pros and cons of gluing the ports. If you like to swap speakers around, do not glue. If you do not expect to change the speaker, go ahead and glue the ports for strength; you can get to the speaker by removing the baffle.
No, but we are trying to make it as easy as possible for people who have no experience building these types of things...we thought a template would simplify the process and hopefully reduce the possibility for errors. We try to design all our kits for people who are new to the DIY scene.
Really great video-detail in the grill cloth was fantastic!
This is excellent! I want the ready to play cab for sure. The site is absolutely fantastic and will of course consider ordering the amp in the same fashion.
Thanks, Michael.
It is such a gorgeous little cab, you just want to hug it. Congrats on the amazing job mate !
Myself I've had great luck tacking one side of the cloth to one edge of the baffle(aligning baffle edge and cloth threads for a straight line,no need to crease cloth).I leave enough length to overhang a few inches on the other side and I staple that end to a strip of wood(threads lined up with strip's edge).With one side of cloth tacked down I simply pull the strip tight and hold the strip while I staple the other side.This way the strip keeps everything parallel/perpendicular so it looks very neat.I also get the benefit of a nice tight grill cloth(it is meant to protect the speaker cone after all).Be careful not to pull too tight as it can bow thinner baffles.
On the remaining perpendicular sides you can simply pull the cloth by hand to align the threads with baffle edges and staple at that point.You don't want to pull too tight on the third edge(we already did 1&2) because you need to be able to pull the 4th edge into place.On the 4th edge you do it the same way but can pull a bit tighter if you like.The cloth get's trimmed at the end once it is stapled into place on all 4 sides.
Also many grill fabrics for guitar amp can be made more taut by using heat from a hair dryer,go moderately as you can damage with prolonged heat.
These are great suggestions. A hair dryer takes longer than a paint-stripper heat gun but is WAAAAY safer. We here in the Lab, as well as several customers, have melted the cloth from time to time -- heartbreaking. Your stretching technique sounds good; thanks for sharing.
Very satisfying watch
I want to use with a bass guitar too. In that case, If I build a sealed cabinet, it will help, or will sound horrible?
For 8 inch speaker, it is ok 12 liters? (about 0,42 cubic feet)
The cabinet should not be completely sealed; bass moves a lot of air, and it will want somewhere to go. We could sell you two more pieces of wood for ports, to close off the back of the cabinet as much or as little as you like. The size of the port will affect the tone. It's a matter of taste.
This cabinet is very compact. The cavity behind the cone and in front of the port wood is about 0.23 cubic feet.
Could a 1/2 watt diy amp with a LM386 suffice to drive the 8" speaker?
The LM386 can drive most speakers. What matters to the amplifier is the impedance (the electrical load) of the speaker ...which is measured in ohms. The physical size of the speaker doesn't matter much to the amplifier. The LM386 can drive speakers with impedances anywhere from 4 ohms to 32 ohms.
In this cabinet, the speaker has an 8 ohm load, so the LM386 could easily drive it.
Great job but, screwing into end grain? Guess the glue takes care of it! Could use dowels?
Yes, you certainly could use dowels and plugs. Our goal was to equip the consumer with the easiest-possible-to-assemble kit, while not precluding him from using more advanced woodworking techniques. Even nicer than dowels are biscuits, as discussed in this forum thread:
zeppelindesignlabs.com/forums/topic/biscuit-joints/
Biscuit joints have an advantage over dowels in that they are completely hidden.
@@zeppelindesign Actually dowels are a stronger joint than biscuits and you can also make them completely hidden with blind holes in each side.
can I use a 10 inch spker with this ?
Nope! It won't fit. The next time we produce a batch of these kits (next spring) we are considering offering a 1x10 and 1x12 version, with no speaker (because there's only so many different speakers we can stock). Would that be of interest to you?
Can you use a measuring tape?
Why do I feel this was narrated by Norm McDonald?
What's the name of item in 14:57?
That's the grille cloth. Specifically, it is Fender black/silver/beige, Antique Electronic Supply part #S-G477.
No sound demo?
Below, I think, is the link to the Percolator 2W Tube Amp playlist. All videos feature this 1x8 cabinet.
ruclips.net/p/PLuhC2I9pYaqP29ayopOnxbBtOarnEnicQ
Cool!
What are the dimensions?
11.5"W x 12"H x 5.5" D.
Where do I order a kit from?
zeppelindesignlabs.com/product/1x8-speaker-cab-kit/
@@zeppelindesign Thank you!
DO NOT screw the speaker in REALLY tight. They can warp extremely easily. You will have a buzzing speaker from the voice coil rubbing if it warps. If that happens,try rotating the speaker and screw back in (not as tight as you think it needs to be. Just snug). If rotating doesn’t even the speaker frame ,discard speaker.
Yes, that is true. Thanks for the heads up. All speakers relatively fragile with very tight tolerances of the voice coil and air gap. The screws are meant to be just tight enough to keep from vibrating out. I usually tighten them tight enough to just barely start compressing the mounting gasket...tightening them all gradually, while moving to the screw on the opposite side of the speaker...like tightening lug nuts on a wheel.
@@zeppelindesign I found this little nugget of truth out the hard way with a brand new 12” Weber alnico. I didn’t even think I tightened it that much.
Don,t glue the back ports!!!!!! You want to get to the speaker!!
Yep. The written manual explains the pros and cons of gluing the ports. If you like to swap speakers around, do not glue. If you do not expect to change the speaker, go ahead and glue the ports for strength; you can get to the speaker by removing the baffle.
They dont need any kind of power ???
They're just cabinets, so I guess you'll be powering them via an amp head or a power amp.
Is it seriously that necessary to use a template?
No, but we are trying to make it as easy as possible for people who have no experience building these types of things...we thought a template would simplify the process and hopefully reduce the possibility for errors. We try to design all our kits for people who are new to the DIY scene.
не плохо, но эти торчащие саморезы как- то уж больно вульгарно смотрятся.
We agree. Check out his thread on teh Zeppelin forum for ways to eliminate the screw heads:
zeppelindesignlabs.com/forums/topic/biscuit-joints/
@@zeppelindesign Это вариант, но я думаю, достаточно использовать столярные клеевые соединения.