Nice to see people still utilising my idea, even Madbull copied it, I should be flattered! I made my first one over ten yrs ago now (Nov 2007). I too used UV LEDs, ones that run at around 3V, so can use 2xAA or AAA Cells. I don't use a 'manual' Switch, instead I fit a micro-miniature Reed Switch in the base of the Magwell, activated by a tiny Neodymium Magnet embedded in the top of a Mag.
Hey. I'm not familiar with your name or your work? But I gladly give credits where it's appropiate, so if you can post link's to your 2007 work feel free to do so... If I think it's relevent work (that I may have copied without knowing) then I will of cause post a "credit's" note in the video text :-) Hope you don't feel like I'm trying to rip off any work you may have done, but I mean: Getting UV lamps to light up is pretty easy and well documented, so personaly i don't think i'm copying anynone. Just showing off common ways of lighting LED's ....
Nice video! The concept of a "HUTU" (hop up tracer unit) has been around for a while: www.meetup.com/Puget-Sound-Airsoft-Alliance/messages/boards/thread/48656383/ ;)
Thank you for your positive feedback ... Remember to like and share my videos on social media :-) More viewers means more projects of cool airsoft stuff ...
Hi there very nice build!! Isn't it going to be simplier if you could you a 3.7v external battery like a 16340 or a CR123a which is 3v, so there will be no need for the converter... ? Cheers :)
You should NEAVER just take the voldtage from One cell... Just like i do in the video you should take the full battery voltage (from all cells) and drop it with a converter... or else you will damage your battery... Lipo's should always be balanced and discharged together!!!!
@@AirsofttechDk Hi. It was my mistake in the video I thought you were taking the v+ from s1 to achieve 3.7v to reduce the load on the buck regulator. After reading the previous response I can see it was taken from the output from s2 giving you nominal 7.4v. Again my apologies. Tom
If the lipo drops below 5v the converter also drops... but a 2-3S lipo should NEAVER drop that low ... at that level your gun wont shoot, and the lipo will be damaged.....
Awesome in guide , quick question though , what determines the current once you have set the voltage on the buck converter ? If I wire 2 or 3 led’s in parallel using this method is there anything I’d need to do differently ? Thanks .
Well I recomend that you take a look at my other videos about tracers: ruclips.net/p/PL33v6qlGUzG2IxqjB0msS4Nmsd6vqBv2Q The question you asked is kinda answered in part 2 160 seks into the video: ruclips.net/video/Z_QnGPHzm-E/видео.html Also note the text here: ruclips.net/video/Z_QnGPHzm-E/видео.html And last but not least: ruclips.net/video/Z_QnGPHzm-E/видео.html So as you can see your question has been answered in another video :-) But for you heres a short recap: 1. Get AT LEAST 3w of led's! Eighter 3 or more 1w led's, or one or more 3w led's ... More wat's equals more brightness in the bb's... 2. Longer exposiure time (longer supressors with led's spread out) also gives more brightness ... 3. MAKE SURE YOUR "buck converter" can deliver enough Amps ... 4x "1W 350mah" led's = 4W * 350Mah = 1.4A ... And be aware that china converters often are under powered so if you get 4w's of led's get a buck converter that can deliver around 3 Amps continues and 5 in bursts ... Hope it helps :-) Would you be interested in me making a "Caluclating and buying materials video" ???
The voltage level should be set within the level that the LED's require ... Usualy between 3.0v and 3.4v but it may be slightly different for differet led's ... More in parallel just require more amps! Just sum up the amps neede ... for more info on wiring in paralell se part 2: ruclips.net/video/Z_QnGPHzm-E/видео.html
A better (for led longevity) option is a constant current driver. LEDs experience current ramping as their internal resistance and voltage drop decrease with temperature. This can significantly reduce their service life. Selecting a constant current driver and wiring your LEDs in series will ensure maximum life while also boosting efficiency and thus longer battery life.
@@aristotelian9693 not newer all led serie lot better all led make paraller ewerytime, and ewery led own resistor then not need stupid bucjconverter anythinnk.
does not work with me Tracer using the script below led's Potência 1w Cor Branco Frio (azulado) Voltagem 3.2Vdc (aprox.) Corrente 350ma (aprox.) // led = |
NO :-( There is no simple way of measuring voltage without a multi-meter... But you have 2 options: Option 1: The first one is to turn the screw all the way down (so you will have 0v) connect the led, and then VERY slowly increase the voltage by turning the screw until the LED is bright (Visual inspection) just be sure you don't turn it up to much.... Option 2: If you go to the project site airsofttech.dk/Guides.cshtml?Page=TracerUnit there is a note with a picture just above the first video. The note say: "It's also an option to purchase FIXED voltage Buck Converters. On these there are no screws, so make sure you get a 3.3v Version! " ... On ebay, search for "DC-DC Buck Step Down Converter Regulator Module 3.3V" and find one that does NOT have an adjustment screw (It could be the one looking like the picture on my site), but instead have a drop down where you select the output voltage ...
If you go for the "FIXED voltage" option here is a direct link to an ebay supplyer that selles modules that looks like the one i use (but with a fixed value) ... Then the rest of the wiring is exactly the same ... www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Buck-Step-Down-Converter-Regulator-Power-Supply-Module-3-3v-5v-9v-12v-/192026977261?var=&hash=item2cb5b323ed:m:mCFrnDiQec75BSDj8N-CL7g The link above will of cause only work as ling as that ebay listing is up ....
![BRASIL vs. PERÚ [4-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 10](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tbyOJKXfQnI/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice to see people still utilising my idea, even Madbull copied it, I should be flattered!
I made my first one over ten yrs ago now (Nov 2007).
I too used UV LEDs, ones that run at around 3V, so can use 2xAA or AAA Cells.
I don't use a 'manual' Switch, instead I fit a micro-miniature Reed Switch in the base of the Magwell, activated by a tiny Neodymium Magnet embedded in the top of a Mag.
Hey. I'm not familiar with your name or your work?
But I gladly give credits where it's appropiate, so if you can post link's to your 2007 work feel free to do so... If I think it's relevent work (that I may have copied without knowing) then I will of cause post a "credit's" note in the video text :-)
Hope you don't feel like I'm trying to rip off any work you may have done, but I mean: Getting UV lamps to light up is pretty easy and well documented, so personaly i don't think i'm copying anynone. Just showing off common ways of lighting LED's ....
Nice video! The concept of a "HUTU" (hop up tracer unit) has been around for a while: www.meetup.com/Puget-Sound-Airsoft-Alliance/messages/boards/thread/48656383/
;)
Yes I know it's not a new invention.... The video is just made to show people how easy it is to make your self ....
Hello. Can we add a detector sensor to this circuit to monitor BBS? Thus, the LED turns on only when the BBS passes.
Nice video! Do you happen to know what wavelength would work for red tracers?
Hello sir nice video can i connect this in my trigger assembly as switch of the diy tracer ?
Used your setup to create a HuTu and it works great. thanks for explaining so well.
Thank you for your positive feedback ... Remember to like and share my videos on social media :-) More viewers means more projects of cool airsoft stuff ...
And alså if you have ideas for projects you would like to se me do, feel free to write me using this link: airsofttech.dk/EmailMe.cshtml
Hi there very nice build!!
Isn't it going to be simplier if you could you a 3.7v external battery like a 16340 or a CR123a which is 3v, so there will be no need for the converter... ?
Cheers :)
Hej, kan man stadigvæk stille spørgsmål her? :)
this is amazing thankyou so much
Why you use blue LED? Not the white one? Does blue emites more light than white?
Tracer bb's respond to UV, and blue is closer to that, so more energy will go into the BB
Hi
Have you had any issue with taking the voltage from one cell of your lipo and it becaoming unbalanced?
You should NEAVER just take the voldtage from One cell... Just like i do in the video you should take the full battery voltage (from all cells) and drop it with a converter... or else you will damage your battery...
Lipo's should always be balanced and discharged together!!!!
Hello There. I can see that "Søren" has already given you the correct reply. Please feel free to ask if his response was not suficient...
@@AirsofttechDk Hi. It was my mistake in the video I thought you were taking the v+ from s1 to achieve 3.7v to reduce the load on the buck regulator.
After reading the previous response I can see it was taken from the output from s2 giving you nominal 7.4v.
Again my apologies.
Tom
@@tomsworldofeverything6777 Thay's okay .. A common mistake.
what happens when the voltage of the battery drops? does the buck down still provide the same voltage?
If the lipo drops below 5v the converter also drops... but a 2-3S lipo should NEAVER drop that low ... at that level your gun wont shoot, and the lipo will be damaged.....
Sørens anwser seams correct, feel free to send questions if you need futher details
What kind of pins do you use to connect the wiring harness to the balance connector on a lipo?
In the video i just used some wires from a development board... But you Should realy use JST-XH plugs..
Is it posible to connet it to the motor cables so the led will turn on when i press the trigger?
Yea ofcause ... just connect it to the motor ...
@@AirsofttechDk will try. Waiting for my leds:)
Awesome in guide , quick question though , what determines the current once you have set the voltage on the buck converter ? If I wire 2 or 3 led’s in parallel using this method is there anything I’d need to do differently ? Thanks .
Well I recomend that you take a look at my other videos about tracers:
ruclips.net/p/PL33v6qlGUzG2IxqjB0msS4Nmsd6vqBv2Q
The question you asked is kinda answered in part 2 160 seks into the video:
ruclips.net/video/Z_QnGPHzm-E/видео.html
Also note the text here:
ruclips.net/video/Z_QnGPHzm-E/видео.html
And last but not least:
ruclips.net/video/Z_QnGPHzm-E/видео.html
So as you can see your question has been answered in another video :-)
But for you heres a short recap:
1. Get AT LEAST 3w of led's! Eighter 3 or more 1w led's, or one or more 3w led's ... More wat's equals more brightness in the bb's...
2. Longer exposiure time (longer supressors with led's spread out) also gives more brightness ...
3. MAKE SURE YOUR "buck converter" can deliver enough Amps ... 4x "1W 350mah" led's = 4W * 350Mah = 1.4A ... And be aware that china converters often are under powered so if you get 4w's of led's get a buck converter that can deliver around 3 Amps continues and 5 in bursts ...
Hope it helps :-)
Would you be interested in me making a "Caluclating and buying materials video" ???
The voltage level should be set within the level that the LED's require ... Usualy between 3.0v and 3.4v but it may be slightly different for differet led's ... More in parallel just require more amps! Just sum up the amps neede ...
for more info on wiring in paralell se part 2:
ruclips.net/video/Z_QnGPHzm-E/видео.html
A better (for led longevity) option is a constant current driver. LEDs experience current ramping as their internal resistance and voltage drop decrease with temperature. This can significantly reduce their service life. Selecting a constant current driver and wiring your LEDs in series will ensure maximum life while also boosting efficiency and thus longer battery life.
@@aristotelian9693 not newer all led serie lot better all led make paraller ewerytime, and ewery led own resistor then not need stupid bucjconverter anythinnk.
@@mattivirta have fun burning through leds or having them so dim that your tracers dont illuminate.
does not work with me
Tracer using the script below
led's
Potência 1w
Cor Branco Frio (azulado)
Voltagem 3.2Vdc (aprox.)
Corrente 350ma (aprox.)
//
led = |
do i have to raze the voltage by each added 1w UV smd led ?
if the LEDs are connected in parallel then the voltage is the same, but more current will be drawn from the battery
@@TheMattSturgeon and ewery led need paraller own resistor current no go high and broken led.
fantastisk.
Is there anyway to set the voltage without a multimeter?
NO :-( There is no simple way of measuring voltage without a multi-meter...
But you have 2 options:
Option 1: The first one is to turn the screw all the way down (so you will have 0v) connect the led, and then VERY slowly increase the voltage by turning the screw until the LED is bright (Visual inspection) just be sure you don't turn it up to much....
Option 2: If you go to the project site airsofttech.dk/Guides.cshtml?Page=TracerUnit there is a note with a picture just above the first video. The note say: "It's also an option to purchase FIXED voltage Buck Converters. On these there are no screws, so make sure you get a 3.3v Version! " ... On ebay, search for "DC-DC Buck Step Down Converter Regulator Module 3.3V" and find one that does NOT have an adjustment screw (It could be the one looking like the picture on my site), but instead have a drop down where you select the output voltage ...
If you go for the "FIXED voltage" option here is a direct link to an ebay supplyer that selles modules that looks like the one i use (but with a fixed value) ... Then the rest of the wiring is exactly the same ...
www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Buck-Step-Down-Converter-Regulator-Power-Supply-Module-3-3v-5v-9v-12v-/192026977261?var=&hash=item2cb5b323ed:m:mCFrnDiQec75BSDj8N-CL7g
The link above will of cause only work as ling as that ebay listing is up ....
AirsoftTech.dk awesome thanks!
no multimeter cheapen good cost 4 $ not expensive, ewery normal men have multimeter in home, and many other tools too. only totally idiot not have.
@@mattivirta I do 0 electrical work on rent so I had no need to buy a 15$ tool I'd never use