Appreciate all the video owned an MK5 for years and loved now. Now just bought a cheap one with cam follower failure. Cant wait to rewatch videos tearing the engine down.
Good job on this video, boss. I've been trying to find info on this topic, but there ain't much out there. Yours might be the best there is. Many thanks.
These videos are awesome, good concise information, straight to the point. Just the kind of thing someone would need on the spot, or to get ready for the job. Keep these coming.
I think for someone looking to do this for the first time and watching this to know that it is critical make sure the correct camshaft is in it correct location.The Intake Cam is on the engine side, fuel tank, tail side the Exhaust Cam is on the ignition switch, front tire, headlight side.
Your bearing caps are backwards btw. According to the Corrado factory manual the arrows should point towards the vibration dampener. Visually it looks like they're backwards compared to the end caps. Not sure how much it really matters in the end though. Manual also calls for tightening the cap alternately and diagonally in order by: 3 & 5 (inner exhaust manifold side) 1 & 7 (outer exhaust manifold side) 2 & 6 (outer intake manifold side) Finally 4 (inner intake manifold side) Great video with super helpful angles. Keep it up.
Those "camshaft bearings" or valve lifter cups are manufactured with a specified thickness to create a cam clearance (referred to as valve lash on older styles). Marking them like you did is perfect if you are reusing them all with the old cams and the valves were not removed. It doesn't have anything to do with them wearing together, although they do. The valve lifter cups need to be replaced or reordered with new cams, but you don't just soak em' and drop them in, they need to correlate with the correct cam clearance for each valve. You may already know this info, but the guys watching may not. Dropping in new cams and valve lifter cups without blueprinting the clearances will lead to either really loud lifter tap conditions with large clearances or valves that don't close all the way upon startup or after coming up to temp. Anyways, love the build. Keep up the good work!
YES! You are spot on with a little bit of a butt... The way you described is the best way to do it. Butt often times there is no spec for the clearance. If you were doing a race build or a build heavy in aftermarket parts, taking steps to blueprint the engine is the right way. But in a case like this, or straight OEM replacement, that is not really needed. VW doesn't have anything in the repair manual about that, and no spec or tolerance to use. Great insight!!! Thank you
That's so weird that VW doesn't have a specified tolerance. Admittedly, I specialize in the Japanese Imports, and I've only built a couple of the 1.8t engines, both for Audi A4's. I do remember having a hard time finding the specs for them actually. In case anyone runs into the situation, I have the blueprints I produced for both builds and I set the intake cam clearances to .011" and the exhaust to .013". Don't know what they came from the factory with but both cars ran/run great. Thanks for taking the time to reply, I always appreciate learning something new!
No. They self adjust under hydraulic pressure. This is not a V8 with pushrods and rockers. Always use new lifters with a new cam(in this case mk4 tdi lifter's).
I have a 2012 ford fiesta 1.6l and the exhaust camshaft keeps popping out of time.. will that also cause a low compression on the 2n3 cylinder .. It has two cams
This is a great video, trouble is the ecoboost I'm trying to set the cams on had the cambelt striped of all its teeth so although I've cleaned and set up everything( replaced valves etc) the cambelt sits half a tooth out of line on the cam sprockets and I can't find a video that explains how to set the cams exact on the 1.0 ecoboost after a catastrophic failure!
You said to back the crankshaft up to lower the pistons to prevent any damage from metal to metal? And to do that before installing the cam shaft. Im just curious how you can get the entire timing system to back up if you don't have the timing chain or belt installed to move all of the component at the same time?
Hey man first time here. Do you have to oil the threads of the bolts you use for the camshaft or rocker arms? Also, do you have to always use new bolts for them just like the head bolts for reassembly?
You should do a video how to upgrade stuff on the vr6 platform Will the camshaft from an r36 make more hp? Is there an aftermarket that would? Does the radiator need an upgrade? How about the exhaust? Best power upgrade? NA is very limited but there is nobody talking about upgrades besides turboing these gems! Keep up the good work Ps I know that I posted a comment on an old video…..
0:34 Charles, is there someway you can show how to use this red tool to lock the camshafts? I have a similar tool to lock an SOHC vw/audi 1.6 petrol engine, but how does it lock the camshaft(s) in place? I haven't tried it yet, but I don't get how a flat piece of metal can lock a camshaft. Is there a way you can show us how this works? For a noob like me, I just don't understand
@@Joshmccaul22 thanks for the reply. which end though? On the end that attaches to the timing belt? I couldn’t find any slot on the rear end of the camshaft, does the cam sprocket have to be removed first? Is the slot at that end of the camshaft?
Hi, I have a question about a vehicle that I just purchased from the previous owner. it a 2016 nissan quest. it has front end damage from the previous owner hitting a deer causing damage to the valve cover. And some plastic broke and went in to the engine right near the camshaft so I tried to take it out but no luck it kind of fell deeper into the engine. It’s two plastic pieces the size of a dime. so my question is, should I put the valve cover back and leave it, or what should I do?
There aren't really many youtube videos on lifters/camshafts. Thank you for this. I may need to replace my lifter soon. Should I replace the camshaft along with all lifters also or is it fine to just do one or 2 lifters? I have a 98 Gr cherokee 4.0L straight 6 fuel injection engine. Its my daily driver and hope to keep it more many many more years.
First time rebuilding an engine, a 2001 Mazda 626 FS 2.0L 4 cyc. The Mazda workshop manual does not get into specifics about tearing apart the block.The do have some on installing the cam shafts but an installation note stated how to point the lobes of the No 1 and No 3 cam lobes when installing but the picture had the 1 and 3 cyc labeled wrong with respect to where the showed the cam gears so I just put the cam in the most "even" way, that is such that no lobe was pointing straight down or up so to speak. There is nothing about a process to align the cam shafts and the crank, there is of course a section on replacing the timing belt and I've done many timing belts on many different engines. So the approach I'm taking is I backed down the cylinders such that they are all halfway, yes you can do that on an inline 4 cyc, (as if I needed to say inline!) that way as you also said I know none of the valves will hit the pistons. Thn I will place the gear on the cams and there is a pin so it can only go on in the "syncd" manner. Then I will ratchet turn each cam to get the marks on the Intake and Exhaust Cams to line up s per noted in the timing belt section. Then I will slowly turn the crank, feeling carefully for any resistance until I have the crank marks lined up. The only problem I see with this is that my Cams are no stationary and I had best make sure I turn the crank the right way to bring the No1 cylinder up to what will be the Compression stroke because the alignment of the Camshaft will have the I & E valves shut then. So I think I've done as you said pretty much, you just backed the crank off a bit from TDC, I have it probably 90 degrees from TDC right now. I have to back the cylinders way off because I really cant install the cam shaft in its proper position for No 1 cyc to be at TDC because some lobes will be pointing down and the cam will be very loop sided in the journals, not a good position to install the caps on. Thats the part I dont get, it sure did seem you put the cams in in the most neutral position to keep it level in the journals, but it seems you ideally want to install it such that it will have the No1 cyc with all valves closed, which then lead to one or more of the lobes pointing down and thus the cam at a very weird angle. Well Im going to thing about it some more. Good Review, thanks.
When change timing chain require. Replace the cam sprockets and the intermediated sprockets and i need how timing the cams i doing entire overhaul my engine vr6 98 AAA too let me know thanks
Your crocodile clip / paper file clip tip for timing belts works on timing chains to. It saved me a lot of hassle keeping the slack on the tensioner side
I'm not sure about these new fancy motors but on classic Vw's motors you have to use a specific cam/ lifer lube that got a mild abrasive compound in It standard assembly lube will not let the cam brake in and causes premature failure is that not necessarily with modern motors?
So' can you use the original timing marks/ tools when fitting performance camshafts? Also if i was changing lifters but not camshafts woutd engine assembly lube be recomended or can i get away with using engine oil?
Has anyone ever heard of applying anaerobic sealant between the cam caps and head? Afraid this would squeeze out onto the cam surface...the procedure to install the caps on my range rover evoque shows sealant in this area, just want to make sure it's not a misprint.
Thank you for the video. One question: i have a 2009 gmc 2500hd sierra year 2009 6.0 liters with 140 k miles, and was told by the dealer they found roughness in rocker arm from worn camshaft lobe causing low pressure on one cylinder and they said to replace camshaft and lifters. But another shop said it was just better to just order another remanufactured engine because there is no point in putting new lifters and new camshaft into used worn out engine with worn parts that might be failing also or that might start to fail. What is your recommendation? What is the risk in this case of just replacing camshaft and lifters? Thank you
Is it safe to just replace the camshaft(slightly more aggressive) on a 200,000 mile engine? Not for racing but for better engine performance on a road trip car to help with all the luggage the car is carrying
I have to do the cam in my PD TDI soon. Any specific tips for that? Car is an 06 Jetta with a BRM and a 5 speed. Also you should note to keep a close eye on oil pressure during cam break in (especially on a fresh engine). I had a 318 that spun a rod bearing running in a new cam once and I didn't catch it right away, trashed the whole bottom end.
recently did the cam and lifters on my 06 tdi. don't try to get by without the proper timing tools. Also, get the camshaft sprocket hold tool, it's a must have. You don't need the puller though, just remove the old cam with the sprocket attached and use a socket extension to tap the sprocket off. if your car is anywhere near needing a timing belt just do it, it's all apart already anyway. you will kick yourself later if you don't. you should also have an OBDeleven scan tool so you can read and set torsion values when you are finished, the timing tools will just get you in the ballpark, they are not exact. Good luck!
What paint pens are you in the different colors purple and green? What is that piece of plastic you are using through the spark plug hole to reference top dead center?
Engine running fine except I can hear loud tapping noise from valves train, I've got new set of lifters but is there anything else I can do to save myself trouble of replacing them?
Austin O'Brien fuck no unless you have access to a shop and wuige some know how. Could be in for a lot of hours depending on how bad it is and what it is exactlg
HumbleMechanic btw,you don't have to comment but after you all done with the wookie ,I would love to see you race a friend of yours with a Fairmont. My bet would be on you🚘
Any opinions on Viva Performance camshafts? I think they sell the only performance cams available for the Volvo B5244S, a naturally aspirated inline 5.
HumbleMechanic. Thanks, nice channel, like your style, "new sub" lol. I believe those cams are made in Sweden and probably sold there as well, I'll see what more info I can find.
When installing the camshafts how do you know what orientation seeming as the timing marks are drawn on the cam gears which are then bolted to the cams.Ive always wondered this anyone?????
Ahmad Farhan Well... one typical cause of black smoke is a rich fuel mixture... no doubt caused by the injectors opening wide up and some fuel not being burned cleanly due to high RPM and load. But no doubt the black smoke is only visable for a second or two. If your car was actually burning oil the smoke would be more of a blue color. As Charles said, some oil consumption is normal. But double check for leaks. Maybe add a dye to the oil that will illuminate when exposed to a black light leading to the source of the leak?
Does these camshafts from blackforest work with the 2.9L vr6 from the MK3? if not can anyone recommend a company that sells performance part for my engine?
DRC cams. 268+10-18hp(-5/7tq) Best cam for $. (Shortened guides and springs are required) Drop in's use use 264 or under. Get UM chip with 7200 redline/cam option.
Amigo buen día soy de Monterrey México y quisiera saber si me puedes ayudar tengo un Nissan Maxima 2005 3.5 v6 que estoy armando motor, pero pare en los árboles de levas por qué me pide un torque muy alto el manual. crees que es correcto? Camshaft bracket bolts Step 1 (bolts 7 - 10) : 1.96 N·m (0.2 kg-m, 17 in-lb) Step 2 (bolts 1 - 6) : 1.96 N·m (0.2 kg-m, 17 in-lb) Step 3 Step 4 (bolts 1 - 6) : 5.88 N·m (0.6 kg-m, 52 in-lb) : 10.4 N·m (1.1 kg-m, 92 in-lb)
Langue_Doc What are talking about , 4 valves always out perform 2 valves if the displacement is the same. I'm sure you can compare the 24 valve vr6 vs the 2 valve vr6 and see the numbers.
A lot of DIY'SER don't realize regardless of the CAR READ THE MANUAL it will tell EXACTLY what you need to do. Nice video and instruction bro
40 Seconds into your video and my pain was relieved!!! Thank you very much sir!
Appreciate all the video owned an MK5 for years and loved now. Now just bought a cheap one with cam follower failure. Cant wait to rewatch videos tearing the engine down.
Good job on this video, boss. I've been trying to find info on this topic, but there ain't much out there. Yours might be the best there is. Many thanks.
These videos are awesome, good concise information, straight to the point. Just the kind of thing someone would need on the spot, or to get ready for the job.
Keep these coming.
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I think for someone looking to do this for the first time and watching this to know that it is critical make sure the correct camshaft is in it correct location.The Intake Cam is on the engine side, fuel tank, tail side the Exhaust Cam is on the ignition switch, front tire, headlight side.
Your bearing caps are backwards btw. According to the Corrado factory manual the arrows should point towards the vibration dampener. Visually it looks like they're backwards compared to the end caps. Not sure how much it really matters in the end though.
Manual also calls for tightening the cap alternately and diagonally in order by:
3 & 5 (inner exhaust manifold side)
1 & 7 (outer exhaust manifold side)
2 & 6 (outer intake manifold side)
Finally 4 (inner intake manifold side)
Great video with super helpful angles. Keep it up.
Those "camshaft bearings" or valve lifter cups are manufactured with a specified thickness to create a cam clearance (referred to as valve lash on older styles). Marking them like you did is perfect if you are reusing them all with the old cams and the valves were not removed. It doesn't have anything to do with them wearing together, although they do. The valve lifter cups need to be replaced or reordered with new cams, but you don't just soak em' and drop them in, they need to correlate with the correct cam clearance for each valve.
You may already know this info, but the guys watching may not. Dropping in new cams and valve lifter cups without blueprinting the clearances will lead to either really loud lifter tap conditions with large clearances or valves that don't close all the way upon startup or after coming up to temp.
Anyways, love the build. Keep up the good work!
YES! You are spot on with a little bit of a butt...
The way you described is the best way to do it. Butt often times there is no spec for the clearance. If you were doing a race build or a build heavy in aftermarket parts, taking steps to blueprint the engine is the right way. But in a case like this, or straight OEM replacement, that is not really needed. VW doesn't have anything in the repair manual about that, and no spec or tolerance to use.
Great insight!!! Thank you
That's so weird that VW doesn't have a specified tolerance. Admittedly, I specialize in the Japanese Imports, and I've only built a couple of the 1.8t engines, both for Audi A4's. I do remember having a hard time finding the specs for them actually. In case anyone runs into the situation, I have the blueprints I produced for both builds and I set the intake cam clearances to .011" and the exhaust to .013". Don't know what they came from the factory with but both cars ran/run great. Thanks for taking the time to reply, I always appreciate learning something new!
No. They self adjust under hydraulic pressure. This is not a V8 with pushrods and rockers. Always use new lifters with a new cam(in this case mk4 tdi lifter's).
I have a 2012 ford fiesta 1.6l and the exhaust camshaft keeps popping out of time.. will that also cause a low compression on the 2n3 cylinder ..
It has two cams
This is a great video, trouble is the ecoboost I'm trying to set the cams on had the cambelt striped of all its teeth so although I've cleaned and set up everything( replaced valves etc) the cambelt sits half a tooth out of line on the cam sprockets and I can't find a video that explains how to set the cams exact on the 1.0 ecoboost after a catastrophic failure!
You said to back the crankshaft up to lower the pistons to prevent any damage from metal to metal? And to do that before installing the cam shaft. Im just curious how you can get the entire timing system to back up if you don't have the timing chain or belt installed to move all of the component at the same time?
Hey man first time here. Do you have to oil the threads of the bolts you use for the camshaft or rocker arms? Also, do you have to always use new bolts for them just like the head bolts for reassembly?
What is the torch specs and sequence on a 2.5 altimacamshaft
I’m doing a Jetta 2.5l. Is it safe to turn the crank counter clockwise a little as you suggested?
Charles
I noticed you soaked the lifters. That's something I've seen alot off people skip. A very important step especially on hydraulic lifters.
Great point. And bleed down time/break in cycle over 2k.
You should do a video how to upgrade stuff on the vr6 platform
Will the camshaft from an r36 make more hp? Is there an aftermarket that would?
Does the radiator need an upgrade?
How about the exhaust? Best power upgrade?
NA is very limited but there is nobody talking about upgrades besides turboing these gems!
Keep up the good work
Ps
I know that I posted a comment on an old video…..
THAT sounds expensive . HAHAH
0:34 Charles, is there someway you can show how to use this red tool to lock the camshafts? I have a similar tool to lock an SOHC vw/audi 1.6 petrol engine, but how does it lock the camshaft(s) in place? I haven't tried it yet, but I don't get how a flat piece of metal can lock a camshaft. Is there a way you can show us how this works? For a noob like me, I just don't understand
There is a slot in the end of the camshaft that the flat locking tool slides into
@@Joshmccaul22 thanks for the reply. which end though? On the end that attaches to the timing belt? I couldn’t find any slot on the rear end of the camshaft, does the cam sprocket have to be removed first? Is the slot at that end of the camshaft?
Thank you you've made my job a lot easier.
Hi, I have a question about a vehicle that I just purchased from the previous owner. it a 2016 nissan quest. it has front end damage from the previous owner hitting a deer causing damage to the valve cover. And some plastic broke and went in to the engine right near the camshaft so I tried to take it out but no luck it kind of fell deeper into the engine. It’s two plastic pieces the size of a dime. so my question is, should I put the valve cover back and leave it, or what should I do?
Is the same tightening of the cams (20NM) from the 2.3 VR5 engine on the Passat 2000 year?
Where do you set the cam so they can let the crank go all the way around without bending stuff
Dude! Hell yes! Thank you Charles !!!!
There aren't really many youtube videos on lifters/camshafts. Thank you for this. I may need to replace my lifter soon. Should I replace the camshaft along with all lifters also or is it fine to just do one or 2 lifters? I have a 98 Gr cherokee 4.0L straight 6 fuel injection engine. Its my daily driver and hope to keep it more many many more years.
Might as well do them all and not have to worry doing it again if you have the budge
First time rebuilding an engine, a 2001 Mazda 626 FS 2.0L 4 cyc. The Mazda workshop manual does not get into specifics about tearing apart the block.The do have some on installing the cam shafts but an installation note stated how to point the lobes of the No 1 and No 3 cam lobes when installing but the picture had the 1 and 3 cyc labeled wrong with respect to where the showed the cam gears so I just put the cam in the most "even" way, that is such that no lobe was pointing straight down or up so to speak. There is nothing about a process to align the cam shafts and the crank, there is of course a section on replacing the timing belt and I've done many timing belts on many different engines.
So the approach I'm taking is I backed down the cylinders such that they are all halfway, yes you can do that on an inline 4 cyc, (as if I needed to say inline!) that way as you also said I know none of the valves will hit the pistons. Thn I will place the gear on the cams and there is a pin so it can only go on in the "syncd" manner. Then I will ratchet turn each cam to get the marks on the Intake and Exhaust Cams to line up s per noted in the timing belt section. Then I will slowly turn the crank, feeling carefully for any resistance until I have the crank marks lined up.
The only problem I see with this is that my Cams are no stationary and I had best make sure I turn the crank the right way to bring the No1 cylinder up to what will be the Compression stroke because the alignment of the Camshaft will have the I & E valves shut then. So I think I've done as you said pretty much, you just backed the crank off a bit from TDC, I have it probably 90 degrees from TDC right now. I have to back the cylinders way off because I really cant install the cam shaft in its proper position for No 1 cyc to be at TDC because some lobes will be pointing down and the cam will be very loop sided in the journals, not a good position to install the caps on. Thats the part I dont get, it sure did seem you put the cams in in the most neutral position to keep it level in the journals, but it seems you ideally want to install it such that it will have the No1 cyc with all valves closed, which then lead to one or more of the lobes pointing down and thus the cam at a very weird angle.
Well Im going to thing about it some more. Good Review, thanks.
When change timing chain require. Replace the cam sprockets and the intermediated sprockets and i need how timing the cams i doing entire overhaul my engine vr6 98 AAA too let me know thanks
Your crocodile clip / paper file clip tip for timing belts works on timing chains to. It saved me a lot of hassle keeping the slack on the tensioner side
NICE! That is such an awesome tip!
ye its a realy simple thing but saves so much hassle
Do you have to drain and compress the lifters if you reuse them
How do you know which orientation to place the camshafts back in? The apexes I mean
I'm not sure about these new fancy motors but on classic Vw's motors you have to use a specific cam/ lifer lube that got a mild abrasive compound in It standard assembly lube will not let the cam brake in and causes premature failure is that not necessarily with modern motors?
Hi does the camshaft twist or bend?
Would you happen to know for a camshaft replacement/upgrade if a pcm reprogram is necessary afterwards due to higher rpm capabilities ?
Do you have any scheme for a bravo tjet engine to put camshaft in face
How long should this process take because I’m getting this job done on my car and it’s been 3 weeks
Thanks for making this video!
You should do a video on that off idle cam shaft break in procedure...
So' can you use the original timing marks/ tools when fitting performance camshafts?
Also if i was changing lifters but not camshafts woutd engine assembly lube be recomended or can i get away with using engine oil?
Has anyone ever heard of applying anaerobic sealant between the cam caps and head? Afraid this would squeeze out onto the cam surface...the procedure to install the caps on my range rover evoque shows sealant in this area, just want to make sure it's not a misprint.
Thank you for the video. One question: i have a 2009 gmc 2500hd sierra year 2009 6.0 liters with 140 k miles, and was told by the dealer they found roughness in rocker arm from worn camshaft lobe causing low pressure on one cylinder and they said to replace camshaft and lifters. But another shop said it was just better to just order another remanufactured engine because there is no point in putting new lifters and new camshaft into used worn out engine with worn parts that might be failing also or that might start to fail. What is your recommendation? What is the risk in this case of just replacing camshaft and lifters? Thank you
Need to replace camshaft bushes on Isuzu kB 2.50 diesel engine and bushes
I put a new head on a Mazda 3 2006 2.3 l does it have camshaft bearings
Charles, I am about to remove the camshafts in a 2001 1.8 Passat for chain and tension- er replacement. any advice or things to look out for?
Is it safe to just replace the camshaft(slightly more aggressive) on a 200,000 mile engine? Not for racing but for better engine performance on a road trip car to help with all the luggage the car is carrying
Nice video dude!
What do you use at the cams to lube, that red oil? Looks like an additive? I never used that?
I have to do the cam in my PD TDI soon. Any specific tips for that? Car is an 06 Jetta with a BRM and a 5 speed. Also you should note to keep a close eye on oil pressure during cam break in (especially on a fresh engine). I had a 318 that spun a rod bearing running in a new cam once and I didn't catch it right away, trashed the whole bottom end.
recently did the cam and lifters on my 06 tdi. don't try to get by without the proper timing tools. Also, get the camshaft sprocket hold tool, it's a must have. You don't need the puller though, just remove the old cam with the sprocket attached and use a socket extension to tap the sprocket off. if your car is anywhere near needing a timing belt just do it, it's all apart already anyway. you will kick yourself later if you don't. you should also have an OBDeleven scan tool so you can read and set torsion values when you are finished, the timing tools will just get you in the ballpark, they are not exact. Good luck!
What was it about the vr6 that it’s not in production anymore?
Good info trouble for me I live in canary islands and good trustworthy mechanics in short supply to do the job proberly thanks you anyway
Thank you this was straight to the point I like this 💯
What paint pens are you in the different colors purple and green? What is that piece of plastic you are using through the spark plug hole to reference top dead center?
These are my favorite paint pens ~ amzn.to/2FsnNq7
The plastic is a glow stick my kiddo had. Using a straw works great too.
These are the pens. They are awesome for so many things ~ amzn.to/2DiF2Ec
The plastic is a glow stick from my kiddo. You can use a straw too.
Hello mate
Do you lossen the cams to take the chain off 1st
I know this is in the comments somewhere and I’m being lazy but how did you lock the cams?
with the cam lock plate.
Very useful information
Thank you so much
I need to replace lifters in VW 1.8t, do I need to replace camshaft as well?
Depends on the west/damage to the cams
Engine running fine except I can hear loud tapping noise from valves train, I've got new set of lifters but is there anything else I can do to save myself trouble of replacing them?
After assembling pull out fuel pump relay and crank the engine for 5 seconds 5 times with 30 seconds between.
Man. Beats pulling the motor or whole front end off. (Like a vette or f body)
Did you grease the sleeve that makes contact to the camshaft or does the motor oil take care of lubing that all up?
I did with assembly lube
Does going in reverse like that when you back away from TDC not risk damage to the engine? I had always been told rotating backwards is a no no.
When timing it’s good. You just don’t want to go backwards when you have the timing all finished
When you install the camshaft did the lifters contact the cam lobes enough to make the camshaft not seat properly??
When you tighten down the cam, it will open a few valves depending on which lobe is in that position
Does the car need to be tuned after a camshaft install?
I always rotate engine around by hand after timing work
How many miles did you have on the engine when you replaced them?
My 2007 gti had the camshaft, cam follower and high preassure pump fail....would you consider this a diy fix?
Austin O'Brien fuck no unless you have access to a shop and wuige some know how. Could be in for a lot of hours depending on how bad it is and what it is exactlg
Can any one tell me or message m explain me how to remove and refit camshaft
my 2 zz enginee knocked after service and later l found water in cylinder head when opened, what might be the cause? thank you
Yikes. From a coolant leak? Maybe headgasket
where did you get the cam cap studs and nuts? I am rebuilding my 12v vr6 and can't find them new anywhere. Thanks in advance!
I reused mine. But you can get them at the dealer
Happy Sunday Charles. Thanks for the vid..cheers
Thanks man, happy Sunday to you.
HumbleMechanic btw,you don't have to comment but after you all done with the wookie ,I would love to see you race a friend of yours with a Fairmont. My bet would be on you🚘
LOL, I think you might lose that bet my friend. That Fairmont is a beast compared to my little GTI
HumbleMechanic There is a replacement for displacement.
It's called "forced induction"... 🙂
I dunno....with a that torque,he would spin them tires right off the rim....the gti would walk on by...
Any opinions on Viva Performance camshafts? I think they sell the only performance cams available for the Volvo B5244S, a naturally aspirated inline 5.
I don't have any experience with them
HumbleMechanic. Thanks, nice channel, like your style, "new sub" lol. I believe those cams are made in Sweden and probably sold there as well, I'll see what more info I can find.
You sure love that vr6
What is a good, and reasonably priced 3/8" torque wrench? Thanks.
Google it
I need a camshaft position sensor replaced on my 02 Honda Civic . Can anyone answer some questions for me ?
When installing the camshafts how do you know what orientation seeming as the timing marks are drawn on the cam gears which are then bolted to the cams.Ive always wondered this anyone?????
Aussie Guy 99.9% of camshafts are key way
I don't understand how someone can dislike this video
It happens on every video. They hate me, they hate cars, they hate the picture... They have a sad life.. Who knows. HAHA
Some people just want to watch the world burn.
Now I know 😂😂😂
i have a 08 TT with EA113 engine. I have to topup 1l of oil every 1500-2000miles or so. What you think the problem is?
That is actually not that out of the normal. You can try a product called BG EPR. That helped out my 1.8t Passat. amzn.to/2vS2xUM
HumbleMechanic it shoots a bit of black smoke whenever i upshift at high revs.. normal eh?
Ahmad Farhan Well... one typical cause of black smoke is a rich fuel mixture... no doubt caused by the injectors opening wide up and some fuel not being burned cleanly due to high RPM and load. But no doubt the black smoke is only visable for a second or two.
If your car was actually burning oil the smoke would be more of a blue color. As Charles said, some oil consumption is normal. But double check for leaks. Maybe add a dye to the oil that will illuminate when exposed to a black light leading to the source of the leak?
Which cam you use
I was changing my timing chain and jumped time does anyone know how to time it back its on a gm ecotec pontiac g 50
I can't find the link for the assembly lube?
Sorry about that. ~ amzn.to/2vzb0JX
If I replace or repair the camshaft of my engine will my engine be considered as a rebuilt?
no.
Thanks, cool process.
Does these camshafts from blackforest work with the 2.9L vr6 from the MK3? if not can anyone recommend a company that sells performance part for my engine?
DRC cams. 268+10-18hp(-5/7tq) Best cam for $. (Shortened guides and springs are required) Drop in's use use 264 or under. Get UM chip with 7200 redline/cam option.
Amigo buen día soy de Monterrey México y quisiera saber si me puedes ayudar tengo un Nissan Maxima 2005 3.5 v6 que estoy armando motor, pero pare en los árboles de levas por qué me pide un torque muy alto el manual. crees que es correcto? Camshaft bracket bolts Step 1 (bolts 7 - 10) : 1.96 N·m (0.2 kg-m, 17 in-lb) Step 2 (bolts 1 - 6) : 1.96 N·m (0.2 kg-m, 17 in-lb) Step 3 Step 4 (bolts 1 - 6) : 5.88 N·m (0.6 kg-m, 52 in-lb) : 10.4 N·m (1.1 kg-m, 92 in-lb)
ve a la agencia y pregunta, o caza algun mecanico y preguntale directamente.
Nice video again!!
Thank you
can i get the dimensions of the camshaft and camcaps?
Sorry the engine is all back together
And be sure to wear a stylish pair of flip-flops :) 4:42
Sorry. Wasn't listening to you when you were using the snap-on digital torque wrench.
Interesting engine, post retirement for me.
Hey beavis!! So far... they are four bunn holes
Nice.!
I thought you were never supposed to back the crankshaft.
Not once it’s timed. And here you’re just going back a tiny bit
@@HumbleMechanic Wow, that was a fast reply! Thanks for the clarification.
Geez those vr6's are just 2 valves per cylinder , no wonder must people opted for the 1.8t.
1gsrtom Yes the 12V VR6's but there is the 24V VR6 as well, R32, R36 etc. 12V's have never been a let down to making a quick VR6
+1gsrtom the later gen are 4v
Langue_Doc What are talking about , 4 valves always out perform 2 valves if the displacement is the same. I'm sure you can compare the 24 valve vr6 vs the 2 valve vr6 and see the numbers.
I like our 12 valve vr6 over the 24 valve. I don't have to run premium gas.
You didn't explain any questions I had in mind
Well ask your questions and maybe I can help.
HumbleMechanic can you give me a price estimate on replacing the camshaft sensor on a 02 civic?
When you don't put marks for a fiat bravo tjet 120hp
1:25 these plastic straws are banned in Europe, because of climate change.
Damn. Did the climate change back? (Jokes but I’m sure there are plenty of other things to use
Easiest thing ever on OHV. Only one camshaft no matter if it's a regular V8 or even Cadillac V16.
👋🏾
Like!!!
Hallo buddy
No vr6 sounds? Lame.
The engine is out of the car at this point. Lol
still waiting for tips lol...............
Just that? 😂