the battery for this camera is a 1.5volt 625A. You do not need to push the button to activate the light meter as indicated at 5:51. With the shutter advance level pulled out (ON / red dot) you can adjust the aperture &/or shutter speed controls and the light meter indicator will move appropriately.
@@alexroth8938 um I don't think there's a cheap way to get it fixed but you can download an app on your phone to use as a light meter. I know that's what a lot of people in my class have to use. With mine I kept closing the crank all the way which turns the meter off.
@@alexroth8938 Mine was sold with a busted meter but it was not, Did you have the shutter advance open some? I do not have my camera here, I think that activates it.
The shutter-speed control is on the body, not the lens. This is one of those things you either love or hate. The Nikkormat FT2 uses batteries for the meter that are still available. The last Nikkormat model manufactured, the EL, has the speed-control on top of the body, and uses a 6V A544 battery, still available. The EL was so good that it got "promoted" to a "real" Nikon when they stopped making Nikkormats. Both have vertically traveling metal shutter-curtain.
Thank you for the clear instructional video on the classic Nikkormat/Nikomat camera. The model lineup consisted of the FT (1965/67), FS (1965/71), FT-N (1967/75), FT2 (1975/77) and the FT3 (1977). The electronic versions with aperture priority were the EL (1972/75), EL-W (1975/77) and the Nikon EL2 (1977). Just to clarify, the version shown is a later production FT-N from the early 70’s with the updated cosmetics and improved handling introduced with the new Nikon F2 and Nikkormat EL.
The only disadvantage to the very robust Nikkormat series of SLR's? They are pretty heavy. I use mine on a tripod quite a lot. Almost never carry it on a neck strap. For a lighter camera try the FM or FE series.
The nikkormat FS had no built in meter. Going rate on eBay is 100s of $$$ because the FS was a rare model of nikkormat. Who needs a light meter anyway....load up 400 film, set the shutter at 1/500 and f/11 opening and bright sunny days will be correctly exposed every time. Cloudy day or open shade? Bump it up 2 f/stops to f/5.6 and you’re good to go.
What settings do you use for inside? In daylight or at night with all the lights on. My lightsensor is broken and im a complete beginner with photography. So some starting settings really helps
There is a thing called mirror slap when the mirror flips up and hits the foam rubber that stops it. This causes a bit of vibration which can cause your photos to appear out of focus at very slow shutter speeds. Locking the mirror up prevents this.
@@umac76 Nikkormat's was designed to take all of the same Nikkor lens's that the Nikon did. There was at least one Nikkor fisheye lens that required the mirror be locked in the up position due to the lens protruding back into the camera body.
This is my father’s old camera. I’ve been using it for the past 15 or so years. I recently purchased 200 speed film and I’ve been trying to adjust the film speed on the camera and it feels like it’s stuck. I broke my nail trying to switch it from 400 to 200. Any advice?
I'd say try to pull on the notch at the tip of the shutter speed selector arm before trying to adjust the ASA selector. I have a FT3 and the selector locks in place and the only way to move it is to use my nail to pull on the notch to free it up. Hope it works!
Yes, they are the same camera exactly, except for the little nameplate screwed on the front of the prism. Why the difference? Nikon was sold in the US through Nikon USA, which was economically separate from the home Nikon corporation. From the 1960s to the 1980s, there was a huge issue in the US over "grey market: cameras and lenses. These were products sold outside the US versus items sold through the US distributors. Basically, the US distributors added a hefty price markup to US sales, and they sought to bar people from buying the same items outside the US and bringing them into the country. The US distributors also refused to pay for warranty or unwarrantied repairs on equipment not sold through their network, just another way to try to freeze out people from buying from Hong Kong or Japan to save money. The main way this was enforced was by a law barring commercial or private importation of registered name brands. Nikon and some other companies went further by selling the same product under one name in the US and under another name everywhere else. Thus, Nikkormat in the US; Nikomat elsewhere. So when I bought my FT2 in 1976 in Japan, it was a Nikomat. If a brand restricted item was bought overseas and shipped or carried by buyer into the US, the brand name(s) had to be defaced, literally. I ordered a 50mm 2.8 El-Nikkor enlarging lens from Hong Kong in 1975. The seller had to use black lacquer to paint out the "Nikkor" on the front lens ring to get it through US customs. (Cost me $52 including shipping versus nearly $100 over the counter in the US.) The backs and other parts are interchangeable between the same versions of Nikkormats and Nikomats (including the nameplates, if that bothers you), but certainly not as to the F3.
I just stumbled upon one of these in my parent’s house. Battery is clearly dead but looks like you don’t need a battery. Is there a certain film you recommend for this camera. Thanks for the tutorial.
hello! im having problems with taking off my camera lens. i already took it off once but ever since i’ve placed it back on it won’t come off. any suggestions on how i can fix this problem?
This happened to me with the old body I got at a garage sale! For me, there was a little lever under the name piece at the top that was broken and not snapping back up when it was supposed to, prohibiting me from changing the aperture lower than 11 leading to the lens getting stuck because it will only pop off on a certain aperture (5.6 I think). I got the lens off by using a needle tool to move the lever up and pulled it off at the right aperture. I don’t have any vintage camera repair places near me so I just purchased a new body for about 50 dollars. Hope this helps!
You can buy a CHRIS adapter that reduces the voltage of today's 1.5v batteries to the correct 1.35v. However, check the meter reading against a known good modern camera as these 50yr old CdS meters are tired & might need the extra 'juice'!
The Mirror Lockup switch was not for LOOKS, back in 1959 Nikon made the Nikkor 21mm F/4.0 in which that the rear element is more like a Tube lens that has to almost be touching the Film Plane and that is WHY that the Nikkormat series, Nikon F series, has to have the Mirror Lockup UP to install the lens, and it did had an External Viewfinder that attached at the Flash shoe, as this lens also appeared on the Rangefinder S Series as well. And FYI This Lens the 21mm F4.0 Nikkor WILL NOT WORK ON THE NIKON MIRRORLESS SYSTEM....
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the battery for this camera is a 1.5volt 625A. You do not need to push the button to activate the light meter as indicated at 5:51. With the shutter advance level pulled out (ON / red dot) you can adjust the aperture &/or shutter speed controls and the light meter indicator will move appropriately.
This helped so much thank you!
THANK YOU!!! This has spared me so many headaches! I was afraid my light sensor was busted, i had no idea you had to turn it on!
I think my meter is busted. Have you been able to get it fixed?
@@alexroth8938 um I don't think there's a cheap way to get it fixed but you can download an app on your phone to use as a light meter. I know that's what a lot of people in my class have to use. With mine I kept closing the crank all the way which turns the meter off.
@@alexroth8938 Mine was sold with a busted meter but it was not, Did you have the shutter advance open some? I do not have my camera here, I think that activates it.
The Nikkormat is such an underappreciated camera. It's quirky but not at all hard to get accustomed to.
Brian of Brian’s Photo Show is a real expert who has a great deal of experience with Nikon. RS
The shutter-speed control is on the body, not the lens.
This is one of those things you either love or hate.
The Nikkormat FT2 uses batteries for the meter that are still available.
The last Nikkormat model manufactured, the EL, has the speed-control on top of the body, and uses a 6V A544 battery, still available.
The EL was so good that it got "promoted" to a "real" Nikon when they stopped making Nikkormats.
Both have vertically traveling metal shutter-curtain.
Thank you for the clear instructional video on the classic Nikkormat/Nikomat camera.
The model lineup consisted of the FT (1965/67), FS (1965/71), FT-N (1967/75), FT2 (1975/77) and the FT3 (1977). The electronic versions with aperture priority were the EL (1972/75), EL-W (1975/77) and the Nikon EL2 (1977). Just to clarify, the version shown is a later production FT-N from the early 70’s with the updated cosmetics and improved handling introduced with the new Nikon F2 and Nikkormat EL.
Forward Cameras thank you...your video has help me figuring how I am supposed to use the camera thank you 😀
the most useful video about ft3, thank you!
I’ve got a Nikormat from the 60’s and enjoyed your video on this.
Thanks so much! Please subscribe.
The only disadvantage to the very robust Nikkormat series of SLR's? They are pretty heavy. I use mine on a tripod quite a lot. Almost never carry it on a neck strap. For a lighter camera try the FM or FE series.
Yes true but they are built like tanks
I have a Nikkormat ft2 with a 50mm f2 lens. It's all black and works perfectly.
They are so nice for sure!!! Please subscribe
The nikkormat FS had no built in meter. Going rate on eBay is 100s of $$$ because the FS was a rare model of nikkormat. Who needs a light meter anyway....load up 400 film, set the shutter at 1/500 and f/11 opening and bright sunny days will be correctly exposed every time. Cloudy day or open shade? Bump it up 2 f/stops to f/5.6 and you’re good to go.
Very good cameras and well built
What settings do you use for inside? In daylight or at night with all the lights on. My lightsensor is broken and im a complete beginner with photography. So some starting settings really helps
Why would you need to flip the mirror up? Just curious
There is a thing called mirror slap when the mirror flips up and hits the foam rubber that stops it. This causes a bit of vibration which can cause your photos to appear out of focus at very slow shutter speeds. Locking the mirror up prevents this.
@@umac76 Nikkormat's was designed to take all of the same Nikkor lens's that the Nikon did. There was at least one Nikkor fisheye lens that required the mirror be locked in the up position due to the lens protruding back into the camera body.
Amazing
Please subscribe
Would it take pics if there’s no battery installed ??
Yes! Fully manual. Use a light meter or sunny 16!
This is my father’s old camera. I’ve been using it for the past 15 or so years. I recently purchased 200 speed film and I’ve been trying to adjust the film speed on the camera and it feels like it’s stuck. I broke my nail trying to switch it from 400 to 200. Any advice?
I'd say try to pull on the notch at the tip of the shutter speed selector arm before trying to adjust the ASA selector. I have a FT3 and the selector locks in place and the only way to move it is to use my nail to pull on the notch to free it up. Hope it works!
Perhaps it might also have gook stuck underneath. Try a little isopropyl on a a tip to clean it a bit. Please subscribe
Is a Nikkormat the same as a Nikomat? Are the backs interchangeable and compatible with the F3? Thanks!
Backs are not interchangeable as far as I know. Nikkormat was marketed for US and Nikkomat was for Japan. Please subscribe
Yes, they are the same camera exactly, except for the little nameplate screwed on the front of the prism. Why the difference? Nikon was sold in the US through Nikon USA, which was economically separate from the home Nikon corporation. From the 1960s to the 1980s, there was a huge issue in the US over "grey market: cameras and lenses. These were products sold outside the US versus items sold through the US distributors. Basically, the US distributors added a hefty price markup to US sales, and they sought to bar people from buying the same items outside the US and bringing them into the country. The US distributors also refused to pay for warranty or unwarrantied repairs on equipment not sold through their network, just another way to try to freeze out people from buying from Hong Kong or Japan to save money. The main way this was enforced was by a law barring commercial or private importation of registered name brands. Nikon and some other companies went further by selling the same product under one name in the US and under another name everywhere else. Thus, Nikkormat in the US; Nikomat elsewhere. So when I bought my FT2 in 1976 in Japan, it was a Nikomat. If a brand restricted item was bought overseas and shipped or carried by buyer into the US, the brand name(s) had to be defaced, literally. I ordered a 50mm 2.8 El-Nikkor enlarging lens from Hong Kong in 1975. The seller had to use black lacquer to paint out the "Nikkor" on the front lens ring to get it through US customs. (Cost me $52 including shipping versus nearly $100 over the counter in the US.)
The backs and other parts are interchangeable between the same versions of Nikkormats and Nikomats (including the nameplates, if that bothers you), but certainly not as to the F3.
I just stumbled upon one of these in my parent’s house. Battery is clearly dead but looks like you don’t need a battery. Is there a certain film you recommend for this camera. Thanks for the tutorial.
35mm Kodak gold is great! Please subscribe
Also you don’t need a battery if you don’t care about light metering
@@forwardcameras Thank you for the responses. I appreciate it. Happy holidays.
It's been 4 years. I hope you've been able to buy a table.
hello! im having problems with taking off my camera lens. i already took it off once but ever since i’ve placed it back on it won’t come off. any suggestions on how i can fix this problem?
Honestly not sure what the issue is. Sometimes the metal parts aren’t aligned properly and it can get stuck
This happened to me with the old body I got at a garage sale! For me, there was a little lever under the name piece at the top that was broken and not snapping back up when it was supposed to, prohibiting me from changing the aperture lower than 11 leading to the lens getting stuck because it will only pop off on a certain aperture (5.6 I think). I got the lens off by using a needle tool to move the lever up and pulled it off at the right aperture. I don’t have any vintage camera repair places near me so I just purchased a new body for about 50 dollars. Hope this helps!
What flash device works with this camera?
I hear Vivitar 283 with the matching off camera cord works can’t honestly say, I’ve never used the flash with this one
Unfortunately you cannot buy the batteries for it anymore, they were based on mercury chemistry and were banded years ago.
The Wein MRB625 1.35V Zinc-Air can be used as a replacement.
You can buy a CHRIS adapter that reduces the voltage of today's 1.5v batteries to the correct 1.35v. However, check the meter reading against a known good modern camera as these 50yr old CdS meters are tired & might need the extra 'juice'!
Lr44 batteries fit in my Ft2
I think is FTN . Isnot it?
hello,why can't I rewind,its hard. what will I do? thank you
Not sure what the issue is completely
You might have to press a button on the bottom of the camera if I remember to get the thing to rewind
The Mirror Lockup switch was not for LOOKS, back in 1959 Nikon made the Nikkor 21mm F/4.0 in which that the rear element is more like a Tube lens that has to almost be touching the Film Plane and that is WHY that the Nikkormat series, Nikon F series, has to have the Mirror Lockup UP to install the lens, and it did had an External Viewfinder that attached at the Flash shoe, as this lens also appeared on the Rangefinder S Series as well. And FYI This Lens the 21mm F4.0 Nikkor WILL NOT WORK ON THE NIKON MIRRORLESS SYSTEM....
Ok thanks for the extra information. Please subscribe to our channel.