Amazing job on the mango rescue and recovery! Many people don't have the heart to do the necessary pruning and restart a plant needs sometimes to save them. You got an awesome tropical yard paradise going!
I just wanted to share that i have a Moro blood orange tree that has branches drooping with fruit . I used plastic toy horseshoes on a pole and a nylon fish stringer to prop up the branches
I had planted a 15 gallon Glenn mango tree in the ground in early spring and it was slow to show any new growth . Then it flowered and I cut them off . Now in late summer and fall it is doing fine . I think I was over watering it ? Now I water once a week and it is growing new leaves and has nice branches on all sides . I staked up the 4 major ones and it is looking much better . My seed grown mango tree is 3 feet tall in a 25 gallon container . It's in semi shade on the patio , where it is thriving
That’s awesome. I can’t say it was a watering problem, and instead, the newly planted tree may have just taken its time acclimating to its new home, then took off when the temperature really warms up. It sounds like they’re growing nicely.
@@TropicalCentralValleyyes I was worried at first but we are having a strange year . My jubilee watermelons should have been done, but I have a 20lb er still growing and new ones are getting bowling ball size ? So I am just going leave them . The Imoto persimmons are 2 weeks ahead of the Jiro tree so that is normal , thought with the delayed summer, last year they were almost finished. Definitely a crazy year
Nice. Your climate is definitely better than mine with respect to temperature and weather swings. That’s not to say it’s all bad. Assuming the majority of my tropical fruit trees make it, their offsprings should have a better chance against future weather swings.
I exactly had this very same issue this year and I kept cutting my Alphonso mango back but that didn’t help. It’s near now but still with green stem…so, I’m gonna transfer in container and move it inside this winter…thanks for your video
Thank you. I figure I do a quick tour video in Mien, so all generations can see what we can grow. To some, it brings back memories from Southeast Asia.
This is very true, though so varieties fare better than others. I find the Asian variety mangoes such as Nam Doc Mai, Po Pyu Kalay, etc. are super pest hardy, though, they struggle against the frost, while designer mangoes such as Haden, Alphonso, etc. aren’t fans of pests, but will take the climate (mostly) without issues.
Great recovery! The density of your yard between spring and now is amazing. It looks like you have done quite a few plantings since then. What are the shrubs you have growing in front of the mango and papaya? In general, are there any support plants you recommend beyond Mexican sunflower?
Thank you. I’m always adding trees and unfortunately removing some in the process (if need to). The shrubs are Thai chili bushes. Super effective in providing filtered shade protection to younger and shorter trees as the bushes do not grow too tall. The edible spicy chilies are an added benefit. I mostly rely on the Mexican sunflower and comfrey (and banana stalks), for nutrient based chop and drop.
Hi! Great video! I've a small plant inside in a pot. And the top leaves have the same look like your plant. Used soil bought from store for new sead. And have replaced it once. Do you think I can mix som sand in it to make it as similar as possible to the plant's natural enviroment? This is my first try on a mango plant and I lives in nordic clima, so I ned to keep it inside my house to keep it alive. The leaves that's not have this brown and dry tips are looking very good, but this is only at the top and dry out the new top leaves.. What to do..?🙌🙏
Thank you. From your description of the tree and the indoor sheltering, I do suspect it may be the soil that the tree isn’t liking. If the tree is in a position to be upsized to a larger container, I would definitely use half peat moss and half sand when upsizing. I would NOT remove the existing growing medium from the roots as this may lead to the tree dying due to shock.
My persimmons tree fruited and the died -dry up after a year or so in a pot , wish I put it down in ground before it went dead thanks for the time frame must be a lot of work editing video
I’m sorry to hear about your persimmon tree. Yeah, just about all trees will perform so much better in the ground than in containers, particularly large deciduous trees such as persimmons.
There is a persimmon sudden death syndrome that trees get . I was told by a Bonsai nursery that also sells fruit trees , the lady owner is from Japan . I had it happen to my first 2 persimmon trees . I almost gave up but the last 2 grew and fruited fast . Look it up
I am within 6 miles from the coast and experience this a lot. And in my experience when you see the leaves like this the tree is pretty much dead. The rootstock might recover. Even the manila rootstock does this and puts my grafts to sleep. I suspect that it is due to the hot days and cold nights. The tree wants to go dormant, then expends calories to wake up in a never ending cycle until it dries out.
That’s interesting. Specific to my Lancetilla mango, I actually have had it for a while and last year was the first time it went on the decline. This being the case, I suspect the tree may have caught a “fungal bug” during the spring.
@@TropicalCentralValley If you suspect root fungus, then you might want to try agri-phos. I am curious what the pH is now on the soil in the pot? I also lost a tree after 4 years (Venus).
With the amendment, the soil is around 6.0 pH, however, once the roots expand into my native dirt, it’ll be around 6.5 pH to 7.0 pH, however, the tree should have been acclimated after a couple of years.
hey man love your videos 👍. but i do not understand why you support your trees so much. On some of them you have every single branch supported 🤔. When i plant a tree i will stake them on the lower part of the trunk(this is so that most of the tree still moves arround in the wind) just so that they dont fall over. With only having the lower part of the trunk supported all the other branches will move with the wind and then adapt to the enviroment by growing thicker and stronger. After a year or so i will remove the support and the tree will stand on his own even at winds of 50 kilometers per hour. This intern will give me confidence in the branches when the tree has a lot of fruit. My guess on why you doo this is that either that there is wery title to no wind in your area, so your branches naturaly are thiner and then when your tree hass fruit the tree is to week to support the fruit and the branch will brake. My secon explanation would be that you simply enjoy supporting your trees wich i would find awesome😀
Thank you. It’s actually a combination of reasons, but the main ones are to protect the trees from my climate, specifically the intense sun and frost. By minimizing surface area exposure, the outer branches and foliage near the top gets the brunt of the damage, imagine 46°C summer sun shining on the tree or -2.78°C frost hitting the tree from above. As I have my trees relatively close to one another, I’m not too concerned about the sides of the tree, but instead, focus on shielding from the top. By ensuring the trees grow tall, it allows me to have them super close, with some being mere centimeters apart. This naturally produces a microclimate whereby the trees protect one another. Lastly, due to the productive nature of some of my trees, the branches will break under the load of the fruits.
Do you have any tips on how to get a starfruit to flower? My tree is thriving. Excellent growth, foliage looks great but it's never flowered. It's a big mature tree.
I too have heard from others whose starfruit trees are mature, but have yet to produce flowers or set fruits. Assuming the tree is receiving all the nutrients and sunlight, I can’t think of any particular reason why it isn’t flowering/fruiting. That said, now, if the tree was grown from seed, that is an entirely different situation. Almost all of my starfruit trees are grafted, therefore, they produce fruits at an early stage. I do have a starfruit tree grown from seed, approaching 15 feet tall, about 4 years in the ground and have yet to flower.
So this is slightly tricky. Let me give you the history on this particular tree. I bought this online from a FL nursery in 2018. It was a grafted tree. I grew it in a 40gal container and it was going good. The 2nd winter it died on me. I did a heading cut at about 15" and replanted it in New soil. It actually grew back from the roots after about a year. I since planted it in the ground where it has been for the past 2 years, thriving. So I guess since it grew back from the "rootstock" it's technically considered a seedling now? I can send pictures of the tree if you're interested.
That is a major setback indeed. As the tree is having to start from the bottom, this will add some years. At this point, as the tree seems healthy, I’d keep doing what you’re doing and simply wait for the tree to produce fruits when it is ready.
I appreciate the feeback as always brother. This was an experiment to begin with. If I ever get it to fruit, amazing, if not I love the foliage. It started thriving when I planted in ground inbetween my house and my neighbors house like you suggested being wind is the number 1 enemy of this tree. Off topic here. Ik you don't grow Avocados but any tips on pollination of an avacado? I have about 7 mature trees and they have never set fruit. I've never hand pollinated but have both A and B type
So, I actually do have a Reed avocado tree and know about the myth of type A and type B. You absolutely DO NOT need both types. Avocado flowers are pollinated by insects, the trick is to lure the insects to the avocado flowers as instead of allowing the insects to pollinate other more tasty flowers such as citrus trees. For this, the spraying of sugar onto the flower helps to attract the insects and hopefully they’ll stick around to pollinates.
I think this is where our opinions differ. Specific to my container trees, due to the super well draining growing medium used, I do not believe it to be a watering issue.
Amazing job on the mango rescue and recovery! Many people don't have the heart to do the necessary pruning and restart a plant needs sometimes to save them. You got an awesome tropical yard paradise going!
Thank you. It was tough call, but it had to be done for the long term health of the tree.
Watching from Florida. I love your channel and I learn a lot even tho our zones are different. Keep up the good work 👍🏾
Thank you.
You have a huge advantage due to your increased humidity and relatively mild sun.
So fantastic! Well done you are certainly gifted with the ability to be in tune with your garden. Awesome work
Thank you. It’s all trial and error. With each failure, I learn something new and therefore, am able to apply the knowledge to new problems.
I just wanted to share that i have a Moro blood orange tree that has branches drooping with fruit . I used plastic toy horseshoes on a pole and a nylon fish stringer to prop up the branches
That’s awesome.
I had planted a 15 gallon Glenn mango tree in the ground in early spring and it was slow to show any new growth . Then it flowered and I cut them off . Now in late summer and fall it is doing fine . I think I was over watering it ? Now I water once a week and it is growing new leaves and has nice branches on all sides . I staked up the 4 major ones and it is looking much better . My seed grown mango tree is 3 feet tall in a 25 gallon container . It's in semi shade on the patio , where it is thriving
That’s awesome. I can’t say it was a watering problem, and instead, the newly planted tree may have just taken its time acclimating to its new home, then took off when the temperature really warms up.
It sounds like they’re growing nicely.
@@TropicalCentralValleyyes I was worried at first but we are having a strange year . My jubilee watermelons should have been done, but I have a 20lb er still growing and new ones are getting bowling ball size ? So I am just going leave them . The Imoto persimmons are 2 weeks ahead of the Jiro tree so that is normal , thought with the delayed summer, last year they were almost finished. Definitely a crazy year
Nice. Your climate is definitely better than mine with respect to temperature and weather swings. That’s not to say it’s all bad. Assuming the majority of my tropical fruit trees make it, their offsprings should have a better chance against future weather swings.
I exactly had this very same issue this year and I kept cutting my Alphonso mango back but that didn’t help. It’s near now but still with green stem…so, I’m gonna transfer in container and move it inside this winter…thanks for your video
You’re very welcome. You’ll find that many “designer” mango varieties are susceptible to fungal and bacterial issues.
Been watching you a long time! Saw another video that you were iu mien too!! Thanks for the great tips as always. I’m in Sacramento.
Thank you.
I figure I do a quick tour video in Mien, so all generations can see what we can grow. To some, it brings back memories from Southeast Asia.
From my experience, mango trees resists against pests. However, it's much berrer to nurse damaged tree ASAP.
This is very true, though so varieties fare better than others. I find the Asian variety mangoes such as Nam Doc Mai, Po Pyu Kalay, etc. are super pest hardy, though, they struggle against the frost, while designer mangoes such as Haden, Alphonso, etc. aren’t fans of pests, but will take the climate (mostly) without issues.
Great recovery! The density of your yard between spring and now is amazing. It looks like you have done quite a few plantings since then. What are the shrubs you have growing in front of the mango and papaya? In general, are there any support plants you recommend beyond Mexican sunflower?
Thank you. I’m always adding trees and unfortunately removing some in the process (if need to).
The shrubs are Thai chili bushes. Super effective in providing filtered shade protection to younger and shorter trees as the bushes do not grow too tall. The edible spicy chilies are an added benefit.
I mostly rely on the Mexican sunflower and comfrey (and banana stalks), for nutrient based chop and drop.
Hi! Great video! I've a small plant inside in a pot. And the top leaves have the same look like your plant. Used soil bought from store for new sead. And have replaced it once. Do you think I can mix som sand in it to make it as similar as possible to the plant's natural enviroment? This is my first try on a mango plant and I lives in nordic clima, so I ned to keep it inside my house to keep it alive. The leaves that's not have this brown and dry tips are looking very good, but this is only at the top and dry out the new top leaves.. What to do..?🙌🙏
Thank you.
From your description of the tree and the indoor sheltering, I do suspect it may be the soil that the tree isn’t liking. If the tree is in a position to be upsized to a larger container, I would definitely use half peat moss and half sand when upsizing.
I would NOT remove the existing growing medium from the roots as this may lead to the tree dying due to shock.
My persimmons tree fruited and the died -dry up after a year or so in a pot , wish I put it down in ground before it went dead thanks for the time frame must be a lot of work editing video
I’m sorry to hear about your persimmon tree. Yeah, just about all trees will perform so much better in the ground than in containers, particularly large deciduous trees such as persimmons.
There is a persimmon sudden death syndrome that trees get . I was told by a Bonsai nursery that also sells fruit trees , the lady owner is from Japan . I had it happen to my first 2 persimmon trees . I almost gave up but the last 2 grew and fruited fast . Look it up
That’s interesting. As with all biological living organisms, I suppose anything can suddenly decline without any signs or symptoms, including trees.
I am within 6 miles from the coast and experience this a lot. And in my experience when you see the leaves like this the tree is pretty much dead. The rootstock might recover.
Even the manila rootstock does this and puts my grafts to sleep.
I suspect that it is due to the hot days and cold nights. The tree wants to go dormant, then expends calories to wake up in a never ending cycle until it dries out.
That’s interesting. Specific to my Lancetilla mango, I actually have had it for a while and last year was the first time it went on the decline. This being the case, I suspect the tree may have caught a “fungal bug” during the spring.
@@TropicalCentralValley If you suspect root fungus, then you might want to try agri-phos.
I am curious what the pH is now on the soil in the pot?
I also lost a tree after 4 years (Venus).
With the amendment, the soil is around 6.0 pH, however, once the roots expand into my native dirt, it’ll be around 6.5 pH to 7.0 pH, however, the tree should have been acclimated after a couple of years.
hey man love your videos 👍. but i do not understand why you support your trees so much. On some of them you have every single branch supported 🤔. When i plant a tree i will stake them on the lower part of the trunk(this is so that most of the tree still moves arround in the wind) just so that they dont fall over. With only having the lower part of the trunk supported all the other branches will move with the wind and then adapt to the enviroment by growing thicker and stronger.
After a year or so i will remove the support and the tree will stand on his own even at winds of 50 kilometers per hour. This intern will give me confidence in the branches when the tree has a lot of fruit. My guess on why you doo this is that either that there is wery title to no wind in your area, so your branches naturaly are thiner and then when your tree hass fruit the tree is to week to support the fruit and the branch will brake. My secon explanation would be that you simply enjoy supporting your trees wich i would find awesome😀
Thank you.
It’s actually a combination of reasons, but the main ones are to protect the trees from my climate, specifically the intense sun and frost. By minimizing surface area exposure, the outer branches and foliage near the top gets the brunt of the damage, imagine 46°C summer sun shining on the tree or -2.78°C frost hitting the tree from above. As I have my trees relatively close to one another, I’m not too concerned about the sides of the tree, but instead, focus on shielding from the top.
By ensuring the trees grow tall, it allows me to have them super close, with some being mere centimeters apart. This naturally produces a microclimate whereby the trees protect one another.
Lastly, due to the productive nature of some of my trees, the branches will break under the load of the fruits.
Do you have any tips on how to get a starfruit to flower? My tree is thriving. Excellent growth, foliage looks great but it's never flowered. It's a big mature tree.
I too have heard from others whose starfruit trees are mature, but have yet to produce flowers or set fruits. Assuming the tree is receiving all the nutrients and sunlight, I can’t think of any particular reason why it isn’t flowering/fruiting.
That said, now, if the tree was grown from seed, that is an entirely different situation. Almost all of my starfruit trees are grafted, therefore, they produce fruits at an early stage. I do have a starfruit tree grown from seed, approaching 15 feet tall, about 4 years in the ground and have yet to flower.
So this is slightly tricky. Let me give you the history on this particular tree. I bought this online from a FL nursery in 2018. It was a grafted tree. I grew it in a 40gal container and it was going good. The 2nd winter it died on me. I did a heading cut at about 15" and replanted it in New soil. It actually grew back from the roots after about a year. I since planted it in the ground where it has been for the past 2 years, thriving.
So I guess since it grew back from the "rootstock" it's technically considered a seedling now? I can send pictures of the tree if you're interested.
That is a major setback indeed. As the tree is having to start from the bottom, this will add some years. At this point, as the tree seems healthy, I’d keep doing what you’re doing and simply wait for the tree to produce fruits when it is ready.
I appreciate the feeback as always brother. This was an experiment to begin with. If I ever get it to fruit, amazing, if not I love the foliage. It started thriving when I planted in ground inbetween my house and my neighbors house like you suggested being wind is the number 1 enemy of this tree.
Off topic here. Ik you don't grow Avocados but any tips on pollination of an avacado? I have about 7 mature trees and they have never set fruit. I've never hand pollinated but have both A and B type
So, I actually do have a Reed avocado tree and know about the myth of type A and type B. You absolutely DO NOT need both types. Avocado flowers are pollinated by insects, the trick is to lure the insects to the avocado flowers as instead of allowing the insects to pollinate other more tasty flowers such as citrus trees.
For this, the spraying of sugar onto the flower helps to attract the insects and hopefully they’ll stick around to pollinates.
Too much water. Reduce watering to once or twice a week once temp at night reaches in the 50s or lower in our climate.
I think this is where our opinions differ. Specific to my container trees, due to the super well draining growing medium used, I do not believe it to be a watering issue.