I will say fixing this one is way better than the newer ones which are a pain in the rear end. I like older simpler things! Can’t beat the relative simplicity of a well built W126. Well done!
I had the oil pan off so I got the lower tube out by using a bottle jack and a 15 or 16 mm socket (I don't remember which) to press the tube and grommet out. They came out easily and only took 5 mins. To get them back in I just oiled them up and used a large box wrench as a press, slipping it down over the lower tube and pushing down on the grommet. It slipped in pretty easily. I then used a socket and hammer to tap the lower tube back up until it seated completely into the upper tube. This left the lower tube about 1/2" above the seat on the upper oil pan which I understand is the proper placement combination for these tubes. So far no leaks! I know you posted this video a while ago but I thought this may help others by presenting some other options. Thanks for the videos.
I just pressure washed my engine bay and added oil dye trying to pin point my oil leaks. Drips are on the passenger side and top of the bell housing as far as oil residue goes.
Two things come to mind: Valve cover gasket and the oil feed line for the turbo. That oil line runs along the back side of the engine above the bell housing. Probably just a valve cover gasket though.
Well I thought this was the same engine exactly as the 123 but now I don't think so. I replaced that grommet on mine and I only remember a single straight tube and no o-rings. It's been over 15 years so maybe my memory is faulty. I do remember loosening the turbo and pulling it up and disconnecting the tube from it and then pulling it out of the pan. The grommet was leaking but not falling apart like yours. I had no problem getting it back in. Good thing I didn't need to get under it because I didn't have a lift, just a local church car park. There was a little shock absorber next to your tube there which I think is an engine vibration dampener, right? My shock was on the back left and toward the top so these 123 and 126 engines are not completely alike. I did enjoy the video and always give kudos to anyone willing to take on a project they have never done before.
Yes that was the engine shock damper. Two things about this project were a bit annoying: 1) Picking the grommet apart to remove the tube. 2) Scaping the old gasket off the bottom of the turbo. Everything else was pretty straight forward. In my opinion this job could be done in your driveway without too much trouble.
@@ImpalamansGarage How many miles do you have on it? My 123 had well over 200k on it when I did that. But my car was a California car so the mild weather probably helped preserve the grommet and gasket. I had more trouble replacing that shock. It had 3 small bolts on it that were hard to get at and if I remember right, one of them snapped and I couldn't get at it to extract it. I still miss that car. It was actually fairly easy to work on unlike this e320 I have now. I look forward to seeing your big hairy arm, I mean videos, working on your car in future.
Great video!! What about the oil line going to the air cleaner mine just pops off so easily... sometimes I look under and it's not even connected... lol Also I'm surprised you haven't changed the transmission cooler lines they have coils around them in case your belt breaks, you don't swipe out your transmission cooler line and burn your transmission... (Might want to look into it...)
The breather oil drain has a new O ring. No issues so far with it coming apart. The transmission cooler lines look dry but that is a good point. I'll check the flexible portion of those lines to see if they need replacing. Most likely they do. I do have a little trans fluid leak on the passenger side of the trans. Need to clean it and see where it's coming from.
Hola, yo tengo perdida de aceite en reten del lado de caja de velocidades en el cigueñal. Crees, que puedo desarmar el segundo carter y cambiar la cuerda reten o anillo que usa alli?
El sello de aceite del cigüeñal principal trasero solo se puede reemplazar quitando el motor del automóvil. Estoy usando Google Traductor. Espero que haga un buen trabajo. 😁
Wondering if you recommend using any RTV or similar in addition to the gasket--doesn't appear you added any. Have to replace the pan on my gas W126 and everyone seems to have an opinion with regard to using additional sealant! Thank you--nice video!
I used Permatex Ultra Grey on all the mating surfaces.... only because I probably didn't have any Reinzosil around. lol..... Either one is good. I like to apply a thin film on both sides of a gasket. It keeps the gasket from sliding around when you assemble parts. You don't need a lot - just a thin film. On more modern cars with cast oil pans they don't even use gaskets - just sealant. Sheet metal oil pans need gaskets though.
That turbo oil drain tube is challenging. That rubber grommet that goes inside the oil pan is quite difficult to deal with. Removing the oil pan is the easiest way in my opinion.
How in the dickens did you line up your top part of the turbo oil line? I am having a hard time getting the upper tube connected to my turbo. Not sure if I have the angle right or if I am doing something differently. I am trying to see the video up close but I don’t have a way to figure it out
Assemble the entire line first before installation. Insert the bottom part first into the oil sump. There should be enough play in the joints to allow starting the bolts by hand. It's a little tricky.
The typical gradual oil leaks do not affect pressure. Now of course if someone neglected the engine service and simply let it continue to leak down to a severely low leverl, eventually the engine would start to lose oil pressure. but by then the engine is most likely damaged. As long as the engine oil is maintained at the proper level, minor leaks have no effect on pressure. Things like engine bearing wear and oil pump wear do indeed have an impact however.
You might get lucky but it's not worth trying to see if you will. The rubber grommet holding that pipe in gets hard as cement over the years and it is very difficult to remove. Just remove the pan and install a new gasket while you're at it. You might need to work at it from top and bottom.
Did I absolutely need to remove the pan? No. However I was going to do the pan gasket anyway because I needed to repair a dent in the pan. However picking rubber from above MIGHT cause some debris to fall into the pan and you would have to remove it anyway to get it out.
I will say fixing this one is way better than the newer ones which are a pain in the rear end. I like older simpler things! Can’t beat the relative simplicity of a well built W126. Well done!
I had the oil pan off so I got the lower tube out by using a bottle jack and a 15 or 16 mm socket (I don't remember which) to press the tube and grommet out. They came out easily and only took 5 mins.
To get them back in I just oiled them up and used a large box wrench as a press, slipping it down over the lower tube and pushing down on the grommet. It slipped in pretty easily. I then used a socket and hammer to tap the lower tube back up until it seated completely into the upper tube. This left the lower tube about 1/2" above the seat on the upper oil pan which I understand is the proper placement combination for these tubes.
So far no leaks!
I know you posted this video a while ago but I thought this may help others by presenting some other options.
Thanks for the videos.
Excellent tips. Thank you!
I just pressure washed my engine bay and added oil dye trying to pin point my oil leaks. Drips are on the passenger side and top of the bell housing as far as oil residue goes.
Two things come to mind: Valve cover gasket and the oil feed line for the turbo. That oil line runs along the back side of the engine above the bell housing. Probably just a valve cover gasket though.
Well I thought this was the same engine exactly as the 123 but now I don't think so. I replaced that grommet on mine and I only remember a single straight tube and no o-rings. It's been over 15 years so maybe my memory is faulty. I do remember loosening the turbo and pulling it up and disconnecting the tube from it and then pulling it out of the pan. The grommet was leaking but not falling apart like yours. I had no problem getting it back in. Good thing I didn't need to get under it because I didn't have a lift, just a local church car park.
There was a little shock absorber next to your tube there which I think is an engine vibration dampener, right? My shock was on the back left and toward the top so these 123 and 126 engines are not completely alike.
I did enjoy the video and always give kudos to anyone willing to take on a project they have never done before.
Yes that was the engine shock damper. Two things about this project were a bit annoying: 1) Picking the grommet apart to remove the tube. 2) Scaping the old gasket off the bottom of the turbo. Everything else was pretty straight forward. In my opinion this job could be done in your driveway without too much trouble.
@@ImpalamansGarage How many miles do you have on it? My 123 had well over 200k on it when I did that. But my car was a California car so the mild weather probably helped preserve the grommet and gasket.
I had more trouble replacing that shock. It had 3 small bolts on it that were hard to get at and if I remember right, one of them snapped and I couldn't get at it to extract it.
I still miss that car. It was actually fairly easy to work on unlike this e320 I have now.
I look forward to seeing your big hairy arm, I mean videos, working on your car in future.
@@wernerdanler2742 192,000
Great channel, you include the size extensions and pain!
You so remind me of Red on That 870s Show. And he is cool!
Too funny. The guys at the regular job say the same thing. LOL
Well done everybody
Good job
Good job sir
Very good video nice job
Great video!!
What about the oil line going to the air cleaner mine just pops off so easily... sometimes I look under and it's not even connected... lol
Also I'm surprised you haven't changed the transmission cooler lines they have coils around them in case your belt breaks, you don't swipe out your transmission cooler line and burn your transmission...
(Might want to look into it...)
The breather oil drain has a new O ring. No issues so far with it coming apart. The transmission cooler lines look dry but that is a good point. I'll check the flexible portion of those lines to see if they need replacing. Most likely they do. I do have a little trans fluid leak on the passenger side of the trans. Need to clean it and see where it's coming from.
great video!
Oil pan bolts are Torx would be nice if you shared the size since many of us need to buy this before the job.
14:45 - They are 6mm x 1.0 bolts.
@@ImpalamansGarage oh, I meant the Alan or Hex size,... just finished the job with only a #5. Thanks for your video
Hola, yo tengo perdida de aceite en reten del lado de caja de velocidades en el cigueñal.
Crees, que puedo desarmar el segundo carter y cambiar la cuerda reten o anillo que usa alli?
El sello de aceite del cigüeñal principal trasero solo se puede reemplazar quitando el motor del automóvil. Estoy usando Google Traductor. Espero que haga un buen trabajo. 😁
Wondering if you recommend using any RTV or similar in addition to the gasket--doesn't appear you added any. Have to replace the pan on my gas W126 and everyone seems to have an opinion with regard to using additional sealant! Thank you--nice video!
I used Permatex Ultra Grey on all the mating surfaces.... only because I probably didn't have any Reinzosil around. lol..... Either one is good. I like to apply a thin film on both sides of a gasket. It keeps the gasket from sliding around when you assemble parts. You don't need a lot - just a thin film. On more modern cars with cast oil pans they don't even use gaskets - just sealant. Sheet metal oil pans need gaskets though.
That turbo oil drain tube is challenging. That rubber grommet that goes inside the oil pan is quite difficult to deal with. Removing the oil pan is the easiest way in my opinion.
And good enough for government work!
Use fresh oil to lubricate those grommets, WD40 degrades the material.
Going to have to disagree on this point. I know of nothing that WD40 degrades.
And Kent says you need his special tool
😂😂
How in the dickens did you line up your top part of the turbo oil line? I am having a hard time getting the upper tube connected to my turbo. Not sure if I have the angle right or if I am doing something differently.
I am trying to see the video up close but I don’t have a way to figure it out
Assemble the entire line first before installation. Insert the bottom part first into the oil sump. There should be enough play in the joints to allow starting the bolts by hand. It's a little tricky.
How much do oil leaks affect the oil pressure gauge reading?
The typical gradual oil leaks do not affect pressure. Now of course if someone neglected the engine service and simply let it continue to leak down to a severely low leverl, eventually the engine would start to lose oil pressure. but by then the engine is most likely damaged. As long as the engine oil is maintained at the proper level, minor leaks have no effect on pressure. Things like engine bearing wear and oil pump wear do indeed have an impact however.
Do you have a part number for the grommet?
Part numbers are listed in the video description.😁
Do you need to remove the oil pan? Or you can get away without it.
You might get lucky but it's not worth trying to see if you will. The rubber grommet holding that pipe in gets hard as cement over the years and it is very difficult to remove. Just remove the pan and install a new gasket while you're at it. You might need to work at it from top and bottom.
Did I absolutely need to remove the pan? No. However I was going to do the pan gasket anyway because I needed to repair a dent in the pan. However picking rubber from above MIGHT cause some debris to fall into the pan and you would have to remove it anyway to get it out.
@@ImpalamansGarage Make sense. Thanks for that video. 😊
What state do you live in?
AL