@@barbarawitt9989Thank you for commenting! I would personally push back against that idea especially for shrubs and trees. Sounds like making more maintenance issues and work for yourself in the long run. Annuals and perennial flowers however are more forgiving on tighter spacing. I'm definitely guilty of that!
So my neighbor, several years ago planted 2 maple trees and an elm tree right inside the property line on their side. Like 18 inches or so on their side. As these trees have matured they have lots of branches that cross the line. I don't really care that much that they are there, but it poses a dilemma as to what to do with my yard. The leaf drop in the fall is something to recon with, There are a LOT of leaves. I feel like if I put shade plant beds under them in that area, they are just going to be buried under the leaves in the fall and that the leaves will be hard to remove when it comes time to clean them up. Right now it is mostly lawn and one small bed that I put in years ago before they planted those trees. Any suggestions?
@@merrycmouse Thank you for commenting! That can be a tricky situation. If the lawn is dying back from the trees being there then looking into some shade beds could be a good option. Bulbs like daffodil's and bluebells are a good option as well. Perennial that could work well would be black eyed susans, golden ragwort, bee balm, cone flower, northern sea oat, and sedges. Shrubs: hydrangeas, seeetspire, fothergilla, witch hazel, and hollies. Just ones that come to mind. I know some people like to compost their leaves using fence posts in a U shape and chicken wire. You can then blow or rake in the leaves into it. Anyways, I hope that helped, let me know if you have any follow up questions. Thanks!
Sometimes you have no choice but planting things close together, specially if you are starting a garden from scratch. When I started gardening, I killed many plants when I planted them by themselves. Soon enough, I figured out that it was easier for plants to colonize an area if they were gathered together, sheltering one another from sun and wind, and creating a subterratean network that in time made the soil more viable. Even knowing that you will need to transplant the bigger shrubs, I would always recommend plantng in groups, only making sure of the soil types and light required by each plant.
@@indauroleal7953 definitely agree, to not plant too sparsely. Although I would try to reduce the need to transplant later down the line as much as possible. If you know your site conditions you really shouldn't have too much die off. What kind of shrubs matters too, stick with what you know is reliable, but experiment here and there.
Hi! Would you like to review a smart irrigation controller? It connects to Wi-Fi, allowing you to manage all watering through the app, and it can automatically skip watering based on the weather. If you are interested in cooperation, you can view my account information.
Let me know any of your landscape problems or projects, and I'll do my best to answer them!
Plant lavishly and edit later. A very wise gardener once said this.
@@barbarawitt9989Thank you for commenting! I would personally push back against that idea especially for shrubs and trees. Sounds like making more maintenance issues and work for yourself in the long run.
Annuals and perennial flowers however are more forgiving on tighter spacing. I'm definitely guilty of that!
So my neighbor, several years ago planted 2 maple trees and an elm tree right inside the property line on their side. Like 18 inches or so on their side. As these trees have matured they have lots of branches that cross the line. I don't really care that much that they are there, but it poses a dilemma as to what to do with my yard. The leaf drop in the fall is something to recon with, There are a LOT of leaves. I feel like if I put shade plant beds under them in that area, they are just going to be buried under the leaves in the fall and that the leaves will be hard to remove when it comes time to clean them up. Right now it is mostly lawn and one small bed that I put in years ago before they planted those trees. Any suggestions?
@@merrycmouse Thank you for commenting! That can be a tricky situation. If the lawn is dying back from the trees being there then looking into some shade beds could be a good option.
Bulbs like daffodil's and bluebells are a good option as well. Perennial that could work well would be black eyed susans, golden ragwort, bee balm, cone flower, northern sea oat, and sedges. Shrubs: hydrangeas, seeetspire, fothergilla, witch hazel, and hollies. Just ones that come to mind.
I know some people like to compost their leaves using fence posts in a U shape and chicken wire. You can then blow or rake in the leaves into it.
Anyways, I hope that helped, let me know if you have any follow up questions. Thanks!
thanks for your video, very helpful. Please what is the name of the 3 shrubs at 1:10?
Yes, those are some kind of variety of cranberry bush, a viburnum species.
Also, that picture is from when I lived in Rexburg, Idaho.
Sometimes you have no choice but planting things close together, specially if you are starting a garden from scratch. When I started gardening, I killed many plants when I planted them by themselves. Soon enough, I figured out that it was easier for plants to colonize an area if they were gathered together, sheltering one another from sun and wind, and creating a subterratean network that in time made the soil more viable. Even knowing that you will need to transplant the bigger shrubs, I would always recommend plantng in groups, only making sure of the soil types and light required by each plant.
@@indauroleal7953 definitely agree, to not plant too sparsely. Although I would try to reduce the need to transplant later down the line as much as possible. If you know your site conditions you really shouldn't have too much die off. What kind of shrubs matters too, stick with what you know is reliable, but experiment here and there.
🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🏆🌿🌳💚LOVE your channel; thank you! 👏🏻👏🏻😊
Thank you so much!! 😊
Hi! Would you like to review a smart irrigation controller? It connects to Wi-Fi, allowing you to manage all watering through the app, and it can automatically skip watering based on the weather. If you are interested in cooperation, you can view my account information.
@@infoimolaza Hi, thanks for commenting! I'll have to get back to you on that. I'll review your info and let you know. Thank you!
@@GardenTheory Thanks! I have also contacted you, if you are interested, please reply to me