Very nice videos. I have made many of these using Tetkoba's original videos and use them exclusively on my backpacking trips. When used with a pot with a heat exchanger such as an Olicamp XTS pot, I can boil 2 cups (473 mL) of water in just over 4 min with about 12 grams of fuel. Another trick to save fuel is to add a lot more than you need and then just set the pot gently on the stove to snuf out the flame and transfer the excess fuel back to your bottle. No waste at all that way and you don't have to guess how much fuel you need. BTW, I have a hard time finding cans with the desired rim that is the same circumference as the body. The ones I get are very close, but not perfect. They still make perfectly good eCHS stoves. I just trim the outer wall to be perhaps 1 mm taller than the inner and then fill that gap with JB Weld. Works great, but adds a day to the build to let the glue set. Also, I use an architect ruler to make the ridges. Haven't found a great way to cut the top yet. I use of combination of your tricks. My solution is to get it close and leave it rough and ugly. Still works. I don't bother removing the paint either.
Fantastic... especially the jet drilling tips. Many make the mistake of drilling straight through and then angling the jets. I agree with you. It is best to try to get the proper angles in one shot. Good job. I am going to send TetKoba a link to your videos. I am sure he will like them as well.
One tip that I never see anyone mention is to flatten the collet to the body near the ribs. To do that, use an empty ball point pen and run it close and parallel to the ribs on the inside of the stove after it is fully assembled (Dragging the pen towards you). Doing this will make the ribs uniform and balance the stove better. If you have a stove that pulses, it might be because the ribs are not uniform. You have covered all the important steps and offered great insight to resolving some of the obstacles you face as you build these stoves. My rib tip is not the most important. However, I find that those that are willing to build an eCHS right are interested in making it as perfect as possible. Again, great videos.
I followed your directions and the stove works great. My first burn was outside at -3 C and the flames bloomed within a few seconds with a very nice jet pattern. Thank you for doing the video
You made your channels perpendicular from mark to mark. Try going from the top mark down but not straight down. Change to an adjacent mark to make an angled channel. This should allow more contact surface and add in a slight swirl effect. Allows more time for vaporization. About your drilling holes - Start a hole but use a finishing nail if you can find the right size, insert it into the hole, and bend the hole with the nail to the desired angle. Preferably the same angle that you made your channels. Instead of bending the tabs inward, bend them outward. Allows for more contact between the inner piece and the outer piece as well as making the stove a bit more solid. Prior to insertion, place the channeled inner part in the freezer for 15-20 minutes. When ready, heat the outer part like you did and quickly get the inner part inserted. That method is similar to inserting bearings into a motor end bell. Nice video. Wish you showed how it burned (lights out), some times, and how much fuel used.
In America I find a number of cans have tops that that are just slightly narrower (maybe 1 mm) than the body (V8 Juice cans, e.g.). They can still work. I just cut the outer part slightly taller than the inner part and then fill the gap with JB Weld. It works fine.
Ah, interesting. Would you seal just the inner pressed rim, or both the inner pressed rim, and the top where both cans join before folding the top of the outer over the inside can?
The leak I'm talking about is at the top of the can, where they join before folding over (I actually don't even bother to fold over most of the time). I have experimented with one stove by sealing the gap underneath, but it didn't seem to make much difference to efficiency. Your experience might be different, however, depending on what types of cans you're using. I always used the same type of can, which I obtained from a Japanese store called Daiso.
Yes. The outer cylinder and the lip (actually, the lid) are very close to each other or even touching, and sometimes you cannot feel the vice hit the gap between them. But sometimes you can feel the gap.
Boy, I am just not having any luck getting the pin vise to drill through the can. I dunno if it's me or the can or the vise, but it's just making no progress towards going through. Any advice?
Thanks! I ended up getting a better bit and it worked fine... Only 45 seconds per hole or so. I realized that the fruit juice can I used on attempt #1 was the same dimensions as a Redbull can, but was MUCH thicker aluminum. For attempt #2 I used a Redbull can and it made the job much easier in all respects. Still wasn't a success, unfortunately, but maybe third time's the charm. So far I can't get any jets to work because all the gas escapes from a fairly significant gap between the two can parts (inner and outer). My second build wasn't nearly as difficult to push together as yours because it just didn't make any kind of seal. I'm wondering if my Redbull can was once again the wrong type.
I don't know where you're based, but I read on a hiking forum that Red Bull cans don't work too well in the United States. The cans seem to differ a bit depending on your country. There's a very long thread on Appalaciantrailcafe.net in which people discuss can types and construction methods. Google it if you want, but it's a long read!
@@jandal8905 Yes, I am in the US, so I'll have to head to a larger Asian market and see if I can't track down the same can you use here. If not, maybe I'll try the universal version.
I've built 4 or 5 of these now with different cans - none seem to perform like yours or Tetkobas so far. My time to reach boil with room temperature water is more like 12 minutes. I think I must still not have a good seal between the can inner and outer pieces. Have to get some jb weld, I guess.
Great detailed explanation covers things others don't show.
Very nice videos. I have made many of these using Tetkoba's original videos and use them exclusively on my backpacking trips. When used with a pot with a heat exchanger such as an Olicamp XTS pot, I can boil 2 cups (473 mL) of water in just over 4 min with about 12 grams of fuel. Another trick to save fuel is to add a lot more than you need and then just set the pot gently on the stove to snuf out the flame and transfer the excess fuel back to your bottle. No waste at all that way and you don't have to guess how much fuel you need. BTW, I have a hard time finding cans with the desired rim that is the same circumference as the body. The ones I get are very close, but not perfect. They still make perfectly good eCHS stoves. I just trim the outer wall to be perhaps 1 mm taller than the inner and then fill that gap with JB Weld. Works great, but adds a day to the build to let the glue set. Also, I use an architect ruler to make the ridges. Haven't found a great way to cut the top yet. I use of combination of your tricks. My solution is to get it close and leave it rough and ugly. Still works. I don't bother removing the paint either.
Great tips - thanks!
Fantastic... especially the jet drilling tips. Many make the mistake of drilling straight through and then angling the jets. I agree with you. It is best to try to get the proper angles in one shot. Good job. I am going to send TetKoba a link to your videos. I am sure he will like them as well.
One tip that I never see anyone mention is to flatten the collet to the body near the ribs. To do that, use an empty ball point pen and run it close and parallel to the ribs on the inside of the stove after it is fully assembled (Dragging the pen towards you). Doing this will make the ribs uniform and balance the stove better. If you have a stove that pulses, it might be because the ribs are not uniform. You have covered all the important steps and offered great insight to resolving some of the obstacles you face as you build these stoves. My rib tip is not the most important. However, I find that those that are willing to build an eCHS right are interested in making it as perfect as possible. Again, great videos.
You are the man, Mr Bird Brain.
From memory, you are one of my sources for some of these ideas.
I followed your directions and the stove works great. My first burn was outside at -3 C and the flames bloomed within a few seconds with a very nice jet pattern. Thank you for doing the video
Hey, glad to hear it worked out for you Bruce!
Thanks for the feedback.
You made your channels perpendicular from mark to mark.
Try going from the top mark down but not straight down. Change to an adjacent mark to make an angled channel.
This should allow more contact surface and add in a slight swirl effect.
Allows more time for vaporization.
About your drilling holes -
Start a hole but use a finishing nail if you can find the right size, insert it into the hole, and bend the hole with the nail to the desired angle.
Preferably the same angle that you made your channels.
Instead of bending the tabs inward, bend them outward.
Allows for more contact between the inner piece and the outer piece as well as making the stove a bit more solid.
Prior to insertion, place the channeled inner part in the freezer for 15-20 minutes.
When ready, heat the outer part like you did and quickly get the inner part inserted. That method is similar to inserting bearings into a motor end bell.
Nice video. Wish you showed how it burned (lights out), some times, and how much fuel used.
I wish we had cans like that in America. The top of any of our can concave inward, so it just leave a huge gap
In America I find a number of cans have tops that that are just slightly narrower (maybe 1 mm) than the body (V8 Juice cans, e.g.). They can still work. I just cut the outer part slightly taller than the inner part and then fill the gap with JB Weld. It works fine.
More please! :) Thank you
Ótimo vídeo Parabéns muito bom isso 👍 ótimo trabalho aí Parabéns 👍
I am lucky. I have a crimping tool made for furnace duct pipe.
More please, come back!
Thanks for the videos! Did you find the JB Weld was needed to seal the can rims?
Generally, no. However, one of my favourite stoves has started to leak around the rim, so it is probably a good idea to use JB weld if you have it.
Ah, interesting. Would you seal just the inner pressed rim, or both the inner pressed rim, and the top where both cans join before folding the top of the outer over the inside can?
The leak I'm talking about is at the top of the can, where they join before folding over (I actually don't even bother to fold over most of the time). I have experimented with one stove by sealing the gap underneath, but it didn't seem to make much difference to efficiency. Your experience might be different, however, depending on what types of cans you're using. I always used the same type of can, which I obtained from a Japanese store called Daiso.
when you use the pin vise to drill through the can, are you going through the can twice? once through the outer cylinder and once through the lip?
Yes.
The outer cylinder and the lip (actually, the lid) are very close to each other or even touching, and sometimes you cannot feel the vice hit the gap between them. But sometimes you can feel the gap.
Boy, I am just not having any luck getting the pin vise to drill through the can. I dunno if it's me or the can or the vise, but it's just making no progress towards going through. Any advice?
It can take a LONG time to get the pin through the can - especially if it's a cheap drill bit. Sometimes five minutes or more.
Thanks! I ended up getting a better bit and it worked fine... Only 45 seconds per hole or so. I realized that the fruit juice can I used on attempt #1 was the same dimensions as a Redbull can, but was MUCH thicker aluminum. For attempt #2 I used a Redbull can and it made the job much easier in all respects. Still wasn't a success, unfortunately, but maybe third time's the charm. So far I can't get any jets to work because all the gas escapes from a fairly significant gap between the two can parts (inner and outer). My second build wasn't nearly as difficult to push together as yours because it just didn't make any kind of seal. I'm wondering if my Redbull can was once again the wrong type.
I don't know where you're based, but I read on a hiking forum that Red Bull cans don't work too well in the United States. The cans seem to differ a bit depending on your country. There's a very long thread on Appalaciantrailcafe.net in which people discuss can types and construction methods. Google it if you want, but it's a long read!
@@jandal8905 Yes, I am in the US, so I'll have to head to a larger Asian market and see if I can't track down the same can you use here. If not, maybe I'll try the universal version.
I've built 4 or 5 of these now with different cans - none seem to perform like yours or Tetkobas so far. My time to reach boil with room temperature water is more like 12 minutes. I think I must still not have a good seal between the can inner and outer pieces. Have to get some jb weld, I guess.
👍👍🇧🇷
Seja mais prático e fale menos.