Thumbs up to video. I use a 50/50 mixture of distilled water and distilled white vinegar with a small hand full of salt or two depending on the amount of liquid needed. I also add Karo Syrup (does not have high fructose corn syrup) in the same amount as the salt as a brighter. After brass wire brushing, the parts really shine. Then I'll lightly seal parts (except threads) with a clear or colored KBS coating (Amazon). Recommend using a cheap current adjustable power supply as total surface area dictates how much amperage you'll need. Also Amazon. The voltage will float to value independently. I find a lower current setting above/below 1/2 amp gives a finer grain but takes longer. For a large part like a front wheel spindle, 1.5 amps was needed. 150 pieces of front end 60 year old suspension hardware turned out great.
Good video. I used this to start with (I don't want anything to do with Muriatic acid or other nasty chemicals, and I found it's not necessary). I'm dialing in my process and I'm converging on a real quick and safe process. Thanks so much. So far I noticed that too much salt ain't a bad thing.
Interesting Idea to save money on bolts. I'm working on a 2000 XR80r and I'll say finding parts and the cost is high...I was just at the Honda dealer looking to buy the Navi, that is not available yet, but the Honda dealer said those vintage bikes are getting pricy to buy restored...There seems to be a surge of interest in vintage bikes.
some improvements from my experience... I used distilled vinegar with Epsom salts as the mix.. thoroughly clean and degrease the part first... then dip in 5% hydrochloric acid for a minute or so to lightly etch the part.... then rinse with distilled water. Then do the plating process as you did, but then when you take the parts out, dip again into distilled water, then dip them into a passivate solution for 20 seconds, then rinse lightly in distilled water again....then allow the passivated part to dry for 24 to 48 hours...
I'm just getting started and my process sounds similar to yours. I assume your parts are a dull grey after plating and before passivization? Do you agitate your plating bath? Which passivization solution are you using? I was thinking about trying the yellow from Caswell. I have read this will increase corrosion resistance.
Good video. I did the exact same thing on some parts of my 1995 CR250 for the parts that did not come in a bolt kit. To make your stuff look better hit it with some steel wool. They will shine up nice. I have found that rock tumblers do not work real well. A much better option is a buffer and some pads from Pryme MX. You can strip the rust off a bolt really quick. A tumbler will do ok but it takes a long time and it is loud. After doing zinc plating a bunch I got tired of the dull gray look and having to hit it with steel wool. It turns out really good but it does not have the iridescent look of the original bolt. That is because those bolts are dipped in blue chromate after they are plated. I have some blue chromate but my DIY zinc plating kit never gave me that look. After a lot of research I have found the only way to get that look is to get some chemicals or a kit from Caswell. I ordered the kit a week ago but it still has not come in yet. Here are two tutorials that show you the results you can get from those kits. It is amazing: ruclips.net/video/8_e9EAJiiwY/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/llnPSfoDaiI/видео.html
@@RWayne-nu2fi sure! I have been real happy with the Caswell kit. I am still learning and fine tuning but I like my results. Before my parts would come out a dull gray. I would have to use steel wool on them. Ow they come out of the zinc bath looking like chrome! I really think they look better than OEM. I guess that would make sense. They' were probably tumbled in mass when new. I am hand finishing each part. Here you go! ruclips.net/video/6Y1ftLoWOtU/видео.html
@@RWayne-nu2fi I forgot to send you and update on the Caswell Kit. It is awesome! The parts come out looking great. They look like chrome. After you dip them in blue chromate they will have that iridescent look like new bolts. No buffing after plating is needed. Here are some pics before the blue chromate. ruclips.net/video/6Y1ftLoWOtU/видео.html
I’ve found that using glass beads leaves a much smoother satin finish than sharp sand. But possibly you would still need the sharp sand first in some cases if the rust is deep.
@@eastcoastish Oh, absolutely right, I didn't mean to imply not to zinc plate the steel, but it might eliminate the need to buff it after the plating. But your work does look nice after buffing.
Looks like you have plenty of good advice here, my 2 cents worth if you don't feel like spending more time to get things like this perfect would be to brush some silver anti-seize on the bolt where it would be hidden and/or spray the areas that didn't plate well with some zince spray paint. Myself I'd try to get the parts in good condition first and get rid of the pits so that the zince will plate in those areas better. Just keep practicing until you get it down is the best way, try different things.....👍
Hi, thank you for the great tutorial. One question (two actually, if I may): do you have to strip down old zinc coating before re-zincing? Is it possible to zinc - dip only one part of the bolt, the one that is rusted? Tx!
It seems you can use it indefinitely, but that's just based on what I've read; I've done about 20 pieces now and it's still working great, although my zinc anodes are starting to shrink, I may replace it with some beefier ones.
How long did you wind up needing to leave those brackets in the bath for? I've been looking into doing this, but im not sure if you leave them in for 5 min or 5 hours. Haha. Great stuff. Thanks for the great video
I felt like I was back in my high school science class while watching your video. Thanks again for another awesome video.
Thumbs up to video. I use a 50/50 mixture of distilled water and distilled white vinegar with a small hand full of salt or two depending on the amount of liquid needed. I also add Karo Syrup (does not have high fructose corn syrup) in the same amount as the salt as a brighter. After brass wire brushing, the parts really shine. Then I'll lightly seal parts (except threads) with a clear or colored KBS coating (Amazon). Recommend using a cheap current adjustable power supply as total surface area dictates how much amperage you'll need. Also Amazon. The voltage will float to value independently. I find a lower current setting above/below 1/2 amp gives a finer grain but takes longer. For a large part like a front wheel spindle, 1.5 amps was needed. 150 pieces of front end 60 year old suspension hardware turned out great.
interesting. would definitely be something to look into in the future.
Good video. I used this to start with (I don't want anything to do with Muriatic acid or other nasty chemicals, and I found it's not necessary). I'm dialing in my process and I'm converging on a real quick and safe process. Thanks so much. So far I noticed that too much salt ain't a bad thing.
Interesting Idea to save money on bolts. I'm working on a 2000 XR80r and I'll say finding parts and the cost is high...I was just at the Honda dealer looking to buy the Navi, that is not available yet, but the Honda dealer said those vintage bikes are getting pricy to buy restored...There seems to be a surge of interest in vintage bikes.
some improvements from my experience... I used distilled vinegar with Epsom salts as the mix.. thoroughly clean and degrease the part first... then dip in 5% hydrochloric acid for a minute or so to lightly etch the part.... then rinse with distilled water. Then do the plating process as you did, but then when you take the parts out, dip again into distilled water, then dip them into a passivate solution for 20 seconds, then rinse lightly in distilled water again....then allow the passivated part to dry for 24 to 48 hours...
I'm just getting started and my process sounds similar to yours. I assume your parts are a dull grey after plating and before passivization? Do you agitate your plating bath? Which passivization solution are you using? I was thinking about trying the yellow from Caswell. I have read this will increase corrosion resistance.
Awesome stuff 👍
Good video. I did the exact same thing on some parts of my 1995 CR250 for the parts that did not come in a bolt kit. To make your stuff look better hit it with some steel wool. They will shine up nice. I have found that rock tumblers do not work real well. A much better option is a buffer and some pads from Pryme MX. You can strip the rust off a bolt really quick. A tumbler will do ok but it takes a long time and it is loud. After doing zinc plating a bunch I got tired of the dull gray look and having to hit it with steel wool. It turns out really good but it does not have the iridescent look of the original bolt. That is because those bolts are dipped in blue chromate after they are plated. I have some blue chromate but my DIY zinc plating kit never gave me that look. After a lot of research I have found the only way to get that look is to get some chemicals or a kit from Caswell. I ordered the kit a week ago but it still has not come in yet. Here are two tutorials that show you the results you can get from those kits. It is amazing: ruclips.net/video/8_e9EAJiiwY/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/llnPSfoDaiI/видео.html
Awesome, thanks for the advice and info!
I would love to see an update to your comments after you have used the Caswell kits.
@@RWayne-nu2fi sure! I have been real happy with the Caswell kit. I am still learning and fine tuning but I like my results. Before my parts would come out a dull gray. I would have to use steel wool on them. Ow they come out of the zinc bath looking like chrome! I really think they look better than OEM. I guess that would make sense. They' were probably tumbled in mass when new. I am hand finishing each part. Here you go!
ruclips.net/video/6Y1ftLoWOtU/видео.html
@@RWayne-nu2fi I forgot to send you and update on the Caswell Kit. It is awesome! The parts come out looking great. They look like chrome. After you dip them in blue chromate they will have that iridescent look like new bolts. No buffing after plating is needed. Here are some pics before the blue chromate. ruclips.net/video/6Y1ftLoWOtU/видео.html
I’ve found that using glass beads leaves a much smoother satin finish than sharp sand. But possibly you would still need the sharp sand first in some cases if the rust is deep.
I've used glass beads on aluminum - but if you don't recoat steel (like with zinc plating), it's just going to rust again...
@@eastcoastish Oh, absolutely right, I didn't mean to imply not to zinc plate the steel, but it might eliminate the need to buff it after the plating. But your work does look nice after buffing.
You could dip the parts in EPI E-Chrome to get the parts a shiny zinc without polishing.
I'm restoring a 1969 Trail 90 Silver Tag. I don't know if it's extremely rare or what but haven't found a lot of info about it. Where should I look?
Looks like you have plenty of good advice here, my 2 cents worth if you don't feel like spending more time to get things like this perfect would be to brush some silver anti-seize on the bolt where it would be hidden and/or spray the areas that didn't plate well with some zince spray paint. Myself I'd try to get the parts in good condition first and get rid of the pits so that the zince will plate in those areas better. Just keep practicing until you get it down is the best way, try different things.....👍
0000 steel wool does a good job polishing things up.
Great Vid, only one question how shinny can you buff the item ?
As shiny as you’re willing to buff. I’ve got them to mirror finish
nice
Is distilled white vinegar necessary or can we just use regular white vinegar? Can't find distilled at the local stores. Cheers!
Hi, thank you for the great tutorial. One question (two actually, if I may): do you have to strip down old zinc coating before re-zincing? Is it possible to zinc - dip only one part of the bolt, the one that is rusted? Tx!
yes and yes
Hi how many times can you use this solution in the container before it gets to weak to on the bolts. Mark from England.
It seems you can use it indefinitely, but that's just based on what I've read; I've done about 20 pieces now and it's still working great, although my zinc anodes are starting to shrink, I may replace it with some beefier ones.
How long did you wind up needing to leave those brackets in the bath for? I've been looking into doing this, but im not sure if you leave them in for 5 min or 5 hours. Haha. Great stuff. Thanks for the great video
I was doing ~45 mins
Oh ok. So not too bad. Thanks
How many volts and how many amps?
De que é composto esse xarope de karo
How does this compare to spraying your clean bolts with a cold galvenizing zinc spray?
I would imagine plating would be stronger than a spray but I don't have experience with the spray you're referring to.
Spraying with cold galvanized spray looks like it was “spray painted” which doesn’t look anything like the factory plating