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The instructions on most thread lock says 1-2 drops on the first few threads of the bolt. Thread locker designed for really heavy duty stuff tends to say enough to cover the first 2-3 threads. So no, this is just dumb.
Also you see why he uses it wrong....second screw you see bubble up the compressed air, third case you try to compress the liquid ... What happens worst case, your Objekt you put the screw in will break cause of the pressure and your torque is not as high as expected
@@NathanExplosion25 or craphead influencers spreading shitnews everywhere in visually atractive form with catch y title so they make views money and do not give a single f for damage that their dumbfuckery can cause
Don’t do this, especial on bolts where the torque is critical, the fluid will hydro-lock the bolt preventing it from reaching full torque or bottoming out.
Can't you just heat it up with a blow torch? My dad and I used big green and black tanks with a torch tip and it gets hot then you heat then you heat the bolt up and it should come lose easy unless your bolts are in a venerable flammable area lol then best not to use a torch
@@1Himiko7Toga thats not the problem. The problem is that such an exessive amount of threadlocker will build up under the bolt and give a upwards pressure, pushing up against the threads which makes your torque value inaccurate. This also builds up pressure under the bolt which has a very real risk of cracking a cast aluminum piece. Just do what the bottle says.. its designed to work like that. 2 or 3 drops, nothing more.
And even if you don't crack or mess anything up, the friction caused when tightening the bolt up completely is what sets the threadlocker up. Unlike glue, it's heat activated. With a puddle in there keeping you from slightly stretching those threads as everything tightens down, means your threadlocker won't set properly either. Also, want to set some threadlocker on part of a rod or something that doesn't tighten down well? Hit it with a torch for a second or two. Works amazingly well on the green bearing retainer.
@@Jester_The_Jynxster thread locker is not heat activated. You actually use heat to loosen its bond. Thread locker is an anaerobic style fluid. Means it will only set up in the absence of air. IE: in a bolt hole.
@@shelbyboer9416 Well as a torch will remove the air from the area, it still accomplishes the same thing, and does set up threadlocker virtually instantly. Yes if you use a lot of heat, it will help remove a bolt with threadlocker, but just a second or two sets it right up in the first place. I've done this countless times to set bearings in quickly when time is a factor. Normal threadlockers are good to about 300°F, with bearing retainers being good to about 400°F. Obviously if you keep the metal just a bit more than warm to the touch, you're nowhere near these limits.
@@ashborn9811 its like a liquid that sort of solidifies to keep the bolt from loosing itself, but at the same time still leaves the posibility for the bolt to be unbolted. This way of using it is completely wrong tho
@@frankierzucekjr it's literally not the way to use it. I've watched mechanics and other professionals that use threadlock, this is a wildly overused amount. You really don't need a lot like this.
Straight from hinkle loctite: Loctite is anaerobic which requires zero oxygen to dry which it achieves by sealing itself off from air drying the inside first. The reason it doesn’t dry in the bottle is because the bottle is designed to breathe. They bought the original loctite formula from a person that couldn’t keep it from drying on the shelves because they couldn’t design a proper bottle therefore selling the formula. 1. Blind hole put on thread and bolt but don’t drench it. 2. Thru holes only need it on one side (bolt or thread) Keep in mind for max bolt strength a minimum 3 thread of engagement are required so excessive loctite will not help and might require a longer dry time in a bind hole due to tapping oxygen. The precision of a bolt and thread also plays a factor since threads only have a certain percentage of surface engagement.
PSA: DONT DO THIS, the bolt compresses the liquid at the bottom and can cause a hydraulic lock in the hole and break the casting, or it can balloon out the end where all that liquid is, or if in aluminum you'll probably just completely rip the threads out
Erm, no - incorrect. You have ended up with so much fluid at the bottom, that you would get a false torque indication on any torque- specific fastening. Potentially lethal.
I had that same problem tightening cylinder head bolt on an aluminium block. There was some oil/water at the bottom and the complete thread ripped out like a spring. This video is totally wrong.
Either it rips out or you can bust out part of the casting in case of an engine for example. Aluminum will most likely strip, Steel is more likely to crack. This effect is called hydrolock and this is why you should always make sure not to have any fluids like oil in a screwhole unless it is open at the other end.
@@Extra_Mental the air in the screw pocket may be compressible, what could be seen in the second example as the pressurized air tries to escape around the thread locker liquid causing the bubbles. The blue thread locker liquid does not compress, so in the pocket you create hydraulic pressure, like in a hydraulic cylinder, which can cause the threads to be stripped or the material around the screw to bend or break. And due to the ramp of the thread, you can create quite some pressure by tightening a screw, enough to damage steel.
This is exactly it. But it might backfire. Would give others the idea of then buying a cheap brand and only one that locks softly. Or not buying it at all cause this shit has now been breaking everything when you need to loosen the bolts.
Hahaha love it. Didn't come to this conclusion until saw ur post...but yh the manufacturers made this vid....amount used would of lasted me 1000s of screws!
We had a 28yr old apprentice use thread locker like they claim is “correct” in the video. He cost the shop $10,000, and the customer 6 months in delays. He ruined the impeller housing on a 1250 GPM water pump, and put the truck out of commission for an extra 6 months while a whole new half-housing had to be casted. [ Nobody does castings for 1 piece, so you have to wait for them to get enough similar orders to do a run. It can take up to a year on older more unique pump designs ] This is why Fire Equipment manufacturers, and certified repairs shops, *purposely* don’t hire people who’ve worked on the preceding automotive and heavy duty mechanic fields for too long. They can’t get out of the “get it done as quickly as possible for a bonus” mentality. We love to hire the aspiring mechanics who are still in the early “it has to be perfect” phase, and invest our time in them through the 8years of preceding training before they ever go for one the many, many, individual fire equipment manufacturer’s certification tests.
That’s a really good way to hydraulic lock a blind bolt hole and crack whatever the bolt is going into. You never squirt any type of liquid into a blind hole before installing the bolt. In fact, you should use a residue free liquid solvent in the hole, then blow it out with compressed air to ensure all foreign material is removed. The only loctite I recommend for you is the stick style.
Where's the "this person is extra dumb button" For those that don't know threadlocker works by causing the bolt to tilt a tiny bit binding it into place (in most cases) so filling it completely just makes it a gummy mess when you gotta remove it.
It literally startes on the bottle how to use it. And all of the ones shown are wrong. Depending on the application you need either drop near the end or near the top of the screw/bolt. It is there to avoid the screw/bolt getting lose. Not to glue it in place for eternity. Might as well weld it in that case...would be cheaper as well.
engineers: _spend huge stretches of time testing and calculating to determine the optimal way to make something work_ this asshole: “yeah but i don’t like doing that”
@@bahahahaha8217 well, have fun cracking whatever you're using this "method" on, because locktite doesn't compress. Then on top of that the bolt is gonna totally seize in there and you'll probably end up drilling it out and using a helicoil at best if it isn't totally cracked.
@@bahahahaha8217 ofc man, you bought it you can use it however you want, like a kitchen knife,you bought it you can use it to chop chop vegetables, meat, etc like what it was intended to be, and you can also use it to k*ll someoneor something else, however if you want to make a video "How to..." You have to use it properly so no one can get hurt 😊 Edit: sorry bad english
Depends on the usage. If you never want to take that bolt out, do the last one. If you just need a little extra grip on the bolt, either of the first two work
My old job has someone come out from the company that sold it and taught a class on how to properly use it. He did a bunch of different presentations but one thing they taught was just to apply just a drop.
love how literally EVERY comment is against this, and instead of just looking at the dislikes to click off the vid you gotta go through the comments, damn YT cmon
Clearly, the people who made this have never used thread locker in a professional context. It is more of a "I don't want this to loosen up" over a "I never want this to be removable ever"...
All three had a critical error. With loctite you never touch the tip of the bottle to metal, hold the bottle off the threads and squeeze a drop or two on to the threads. When loctite contacts metal it has a reaction with the metal threads to harden. Guys who keep dragging their bottle across the threads keep wondering why the tip of the bottle is clogged up every time they use it.
So basically according to this video Proper use of thread locker: just use as much as you possibly can, the more the merrier. But fr the 2nd solution was much better than the 3rd one because it also got the thread locker all the way around without excess spilling all over.
Ну точно, налить в резьбу в отверстие и на болт, чтобы герметично было и закрутить до талого, чтобы порвало нахрен материал. Так некоторые ГБЦ и прикручивают, а потом гадают почему блок лопнул!)
@@user-ur6uf2mo1b на самом деле способов контровки крепежных деталей очень много и я согласен что столько не нужно. Но всё зависит от множества факторов материала, конструктива и ТД. и тп.
I'd imagine that either of the "first 2 methods" would work fine.. Especially when everyones saying that the 3rd method is not only "over kill," but can cause the casting to crack or break.
If the casting is crap then maybe. Those are guys that think a torque spec has to be dead on or it's no good. They are also the same guys that have special tools with one purpose that they've never used because they used another tool that worked the same and was still the right tool for the job.
During my apprenticeship as a machinist I had the chance to take part in a seminar with the product manager of Loctite. We were told too much threadlock is actually no better than no thread lock at all because it can't harden and could bring more moisture into the connection. 2-3 drops in the hole is enough.
The first one works perfectly fine. They also sell screw with it already and its less. And if you the screw to be harder to get off , take a stronger threadlocker specialy made for that.
Никогда не применяйте третий вариант. Да и второй тоже. Гидравлическое давление вполне может выдавить болт, срезав резьбу! Ну а тем, кто советует применять подобные варианты фиксации крепежа, хотелось бы порекомендовать тщательнее подходить к подбору материала и не вводить людей в заблуждение.
Threadlocker is intended to help prevent the bolt from backing itself out. It is not intended to tighten the bolt. Way too much thread lock. 1 or 2 drops at the end of a bolt threads is more than enough.
If you do that into a block of any sort you will hydraulically fracture the block because of the liquid. Do exactly the opposite of what this video says..
From the other comments it actually seems like he decreased performance. There's a pool of fluid at the bottom which seems to come with some pretty awful consequences.
I mean, yeah it looks aesthetically pleasing, but that's it. This stuff isn't meant to total bond a bolt into a hole. It's to stop vibration, expansion via heat etc from causing the bolt to back out. This will not only cause massive hydra expansion as it dries out, it will cause torque readings to be I correct. Also possibly more I can't think of off the top of my head.
@@Detali_org в том и дело, что это клей, а не герметик, ему достаточно в одной точке соединить болт с деталью, чтоб тот из неё самопроизвольно не выкрутился. Нах его туда ведро лить?
yeah enjoy your clogged oil pickup, chewed out bearings, cam lobes and clogged up vvt solenoids 😂 i do mine every 5k kms, no more than 7.5k for customers.
Хобби
The instructions on most thread lock says 1-2 drops on the first few threads of the bolt. Thread locker designed for really heavy duty stuff tends to say enough to cover the first 2-3 threads. So no, this is just dumb.
Also you see why he uses it wrong....second screw you see bubble up the compressed air, third case you try to compress the liquid ...
What happens worst case, your Objekt you put the screw in will break cause of the pressure and your torque is not as high as expected
I was just thinking it seemed like overkill.
I sometimes wonder if these videos are made by people that know it's wrong purely to spark a debate.
@@NathanExplosion25 they are
@@NathanExplosion25 or craphead influencers spreading shitnews everywhere in visually atractive form with catch y title so they make views money and do not give a single f for damage that their dumbfuckery can cause
"You're not just wrong, you're also stupid"
- cat in the hat
My daughter loves this movie so I immediately knew the reference lol
"you're not just wrong, you're stupid"
- cat in the hat
I love this movie
"Just like your mum"
I dont understand whats so bad in this tbh.
"How to waste threadlocker and increase your machine shop bills in two easy steps"
Couldn’t agree more. What a waste
This is why I jump to comments!
First one: "no."
Second one: "also no."
Third one: "holy shit no you're about to hydrolock that bolt"
Looks like a good way to hydraulic lock the bolt hole and break a casting.
exactly hahah
Came here to say the same thing. Recently learned you can hydraulic lock gasket maker for oil pans and crack the casting as well
This
Yea
Yup. That puddle in the bottom of the blind hole is no bueno.
Don’t do this, especial on bolts where the torque is critical, the fluid will hydro-lock the bolt preventing it from reaching full torque or bottoming out.
Someone said it.
This exactly! Thanks!
Can't you just heat it up with a blow torch? My dad and I used big green and black tanks with a torch tip and it gets hot then you heat then you heat the bolt up and it should come lose easy unless your bolts are in a venerable flammable area lol then best not to use a torch
@@1Himiko7Toga thats not the problem. The problem is that such an exessive amount of threadlocker will build up under the bolt and give a upwards pressure, pushing up against the threads which makes your torque value inaccurate. This also builds up pressure under the bolt which has a very real risk of cracking a cast aluminum piece. Just do what the bottle says.. its designed to work like that. 2 or 3 drops, nothing more.
@@acvn-hg9gy thanks for the explanation.
@@acvn-hg9gy science, well then add less not a big problem ik what you mean by this it’s like a syringe needle for no way out for the liquid
"how to weld a bolt"
Blue stays elastic. After years they turn our better than pure threads (rust and diffusion)
Yep their “right way” is a great way to put a crack in the head of your engine
Delete this video before someone permanently damages something.
We don't know...but someone like to damage something in purpose..
@@linghing1886 at purpose*
@Bread Neo to purpose*
@@bluethumbbuttoneek9465 a purpose
@@scope5499 the purpose*
Ah yes how to crack an engine block 101
You got that right, he must have a machine shop and needs work lol
Lmfao I think that's the point nowadays. Just misinformation.
i rarely use thread locker on an engine block. mostly driveline stuff here. canada got us cover with the natural thread locker #rust 😂
Thank you. My blood was boiling thinking people were believing this bull shit.
I love snapping bolts when I have to fix stuff!
I mean hey, it's a great way at filling holes essentially forever (at least until the thread locker breaks down).
My man is gonna snap the acrylic block in half trying to remove the bolts
"Oh you got a buddy who can do it cheaper? Aight bet."
No. Hydraulic pressure limits bolt torque. Don't do this.
The exact comment I came here to make.
or you'l crack what youre bolting into
And even if you don't crack or mess anything up, the friction caused when tightening the bolt up completely is what sets the threadlocker up. Unlike glue, it's heat activated. With a puddle in there keeping you from slightly stretching those threads as everything tightens down, means your threadlocker won't set properly either. Also, want to set some threadlocker on part of a rod or something that doesn't tighten down well? Hit it with a torch for a second or two. Works amazingly well on the green bearing retainer.
@@Jester_The_Jynxster thread locker is not heat activated. You actually use heat to loosen its bond. Thread locker is an anaerobic style fluid. Means it will only set up in the absence of air. IE: in a bolt hole.
@@shelbyboer9416 Well as a torch will remove the air from the area, it still accomplishes the same thing, and does set up threadlocker virtually instantly. Yes if you use a lot of heat, it will help remove a bolt with threadlocker, but just a second or two sets it right up in the first place. I've done this countless times to set bearings in quickly when time is a factor. Normal threadlockers are good to about 300°F, with bearing retainers being good to about 400°F. Obviously if you keep the metal just a bit more than warm to the touch, you're nowhere near these limits.
"Correct use of threadlocker"
Proceeds to use entire bottle on one bolt 🤷♂️
"correct use of threadlocker"
Me who has not seen or heard about it till now- "interesting....."
Good thing it's cheap. 🙄
@@RideRevival I know right. Shits like gold lmao.
Wait!...You guys are using threadlocker?
@@ashborn9811 its like a liquid that sort of solidifies to keep the bolt from loosing itself, but at the same time still leaves the posibility for the bolt to be unbolted. This way of using it is completely wrong tho
Thank you comments section, I knew this looked weird
If you want to know the correct way to use thread locker, read the instructions on it
"Do you want thread locker to spill all over the farkin place?"
It’s a bitch to clean off
Why not? It will make surrounding bullet proof as well💪
(No I'm not serious)
Bolt: “I live here now”
🤣🤣🤣
Classic red goop vs blue goop scenario... When you need a permanent hold but all you have is the "temporary" thread lock
That was good. Think I just pissed myself a little.
That's your home and you're staying!
#technicalmonirul ❤️❤️❤️❤️😀😀❤️❤️😀😀😀
“Correct use”
*shows a wildly incorrect use of it*
This is the perfect video representation of RUclips, or any social media. EVERYONE IS A PROFESSIONAL ONLINE LMFAO
@@frankierzucekjr it's literally not the way to use it. I've watched mechanics and other professionals that use threadlock, this is a wildly overused amount. You really don't need a lot like this.
@@Zamerus yes I know. That's why I made fun of it. "All the professionals on RUclips"
@@frankierzucekjr my dumb tired dyslexic ass thought you were making fun of the commenter XD
The 2nd way seemed like the best from my perspective
Best tip I've seen so far on how to use thread locking compound like an imbecile
"How to waste threadlocker: A montage of stupidity."
As a wise man once said: "Is this an out of season April Fools' joke?"
Basically, there's already more than enough with just a drop or two of it, and he's flushing the whole bottle down that hole
Underrated comment
Yeah!
Do you guys not have phones?
They need a “never recommend channel ever again” button.
Please though, we need this
@@nathanweber6859 its there click on 3 dots in short.
They do I use it all the time
@@jimmieluff969 ur comment made me laugh, same I also use that button all the time
I think they actually do have one, if your watching on mobile with shorts, the three dots give you the button. I might just use it lmao
Straight from hinkle loctite:
Loctite is anaerobic which requires zero oxygen to dry which it achieves by sealing itself off from air drying the inside first. The reason it doesn’t dry in the bottle is because the bottle is designed to breathe. They bought the original loctite formula from a person that couldn’t keep it from drying on the shelves because they couldn’t design a proper bottle therefore selling the formula.
1. Blind hole put on thread and bolt but don’t drench it.
2. Thru holes only need it on one side (bolt or thread)
Keep in mind for max bolt strength a minimum 3 thread of engagement are required so excessive loctite will not help and might require a longer dry time in a bind hole due to tapping oxygen. The precision of a bolt and thread also plays a factor since threads only have a certain percentage of surface engagement.
Ah yes the good ole, use so much it spills over into your neighbors lawn
PSA: DONT DO THIS, the bolt compresses the liquid at the bottom and can cause a hydraulic lock in the hole and break the casting, or it can balloon out the end where all that liquid is, or if in aluminum you'll probably just completely rip the threads out
This is literally the worst video I've ever seen on RUclips
There is absolutely ZERO reason to use that much thread locker. Read the directions on the package if you're not sure!
Wheel nuts with all the ugga duggas 🤣🤣🤣
Congrats you got the joke
Summary:
Use the whole bottle
Erm, no - incorrect. You have ended up with so much fluid at the bottom, that you would get a false torque indication on any torque- specific fastening. Potentially lethal.
Don’t do this. Fluids don’t compress well so you’ll probably rip your threads out of anything aluminium.
I had that same problem tightening cylinder head bolt on an aluminium block.
There was some oil/water at the bottom and the complete thread ripped out like a spring.
This video is totally wrong.
Either it rips out or you can bust out part of the casting in case of an engine for example. Aluminum will most likely strip, Steel is more likely to crack.
This effect is called hydrolock and this is why you should always make sure not to have any fluids like oil in a screwhole unless it is open at the other end.
Wdym? air compresses really well
Air does, fluids don’t
@@Extra_Mental the air in the screw pocket may be compressible, what could be seen in the second example as the pressurized air tries to escape around the thread locker liquid causing the bubbles.
The blue thread locker liquid does not compress, so in the pocket you create hydraulic pressure, like in a hydraulic cylinder, which can cause the threads to be stripped or the material around the screw to bend or break.
And due to the ramp of the thread, you can create quite some pressure by tightening a screw, enough to damage steel.
"We need to sell more of this stuff, how can we get people to just waste the hell out of it??"
RUclipsr - "I got ya, bro."
Was looking for this comment 🤣
Threadlocker from eg Loctile is not cheap,
I get scolded for using too much instead of a few drops
This is exactly it. But it might backfire. Would give others the idea of then buying a cheap brand and only one that locks softly. Or not buying it at all cause this shit has now been breaking everything when you need to loosen the bolts.
Hahaha love it. Didn't come to this conclusion until saw ur post...but yh the manufacturers made this vid....amount used would of lasted me 1000s of screws!
Good way to get sponsored. 😂
Each time I think these can get worse, this channel just continues to impress!
We had a 28yr old apprentice use thread locker like they claim is “correct” in the video. He cost the shop $10,000, and the customer 6 months in delays.
He ruined the impeller housing on a 1250 GPM water pump, and put the truck out of commission for an extra 6 months while a whole new half-housing had to be casted. [ Nobody does castings for 1 piece, so you have to wait for them to get enough similar orders to do a run. It can take up to a year on older more unique pump designs ]
This is why Fire Equipment manufacturers, and certified repairs shops, *purposely* don’t hire people who’ve worked on the preceding automotive and heavy duty mechanic fields for too long. They can’t get out of the “get it done as quickly as possible for a bonus” mentality. We love to hire the aspiring mechanics who are still in the early “it has to be perfect” phase, and invest our time in them through the 8years of preceding training before they ever go for one the many, many, individual fire equipment manufacturer’s certification tests.
Should be "how to make hydraulic ram cracks and weld screw in place. All at once with just threadlock"
But the algorithm hates long names
@@nonegivendontask "how to break something"
This belongs on tiktok with all the other faux advice available like "how to get 6-pack abs without getting off the couch."
They’re there in spirit. 😅
Well... You could do 400 situps on the couch
People are stupid enough to fall for nugenix( once force factor) they are going to be stupid enough to fall for 6 minute abs...
Six pack abs? ...just use thread locker
If you have a sharpie near the couch, you can. Just draw on the abs!
That’s a really good way to hydraulic lock a blind bolt hole and crack whatever the bolt is going into. You never squirt any type of liquid into a blind hole before installing the bolt. In fact, you should use a residue free liquid solvent in the hole, then blow it out with compressed air to ensure all foreign material is removed. The only loctite I recommend for you is the stick style.
I love these videos "this is the correct way" yet they're always the complete opposite of the right way
Ooooh, you just use 3X as much as you actually need.
Got it!
Tip: on bigger bolts you may need two bottles.
Mix one bottle of red and one of blue just to be sure
@@wetdog5299 lmao
@@wetdog5299 gotta get that green on there to for good measure
@@wetdog5299 while you're at it, add some 2 part epoxy to the mix... for reasons
@@FonicsSuck RGB gaming threadlock
Notice all the excess liquid.
"Less is more"
-also sealing bolts to glass mean it's permanent, trying to unscrew that will break the glass now.
I think the plexi glass was just used to show hoe the threadlocker interacts with the screw
You don't use an entire bottle of thread locker for 1 bolt, It literally says 1-2 drops because that's all you need.
This is so incorrect that I'm hitting "don't recommend channel"
Same
Wait there's a button for that? I tapped everywhere. No find.
@@Planeswader keep looking, its there
@@Planeswader the 3 dots
ditto
They’re literally zooming in on the hydrolock.
Trying to sell casting repair kits on another video. 😂
#technicalmonirul ❤️❤️❤️❤️😀😀😀😀❤️❤️🥰🥰
"I never want to remove this bolt"
Where's the "this person is extra dumb button"
For those that don't know threadlocker works by causing the bolt to tilt a tiny bit binding it into place (in most cases) so filling it completely just makes it a gummy mess when you gotta remove it.
This has to be a troll. If there’s so much it’s spilling out the top there’s way too much
You’re giving it the “my friend can do it cheaper special” lol
I like how it's ironicaly called "totally handy shorts"
Loctite on polycarb, dousing fasteners in Loctite, cheap taps, inability to read instructions. These are some of my favorite things in this world.
"I got a friend that can do it cheaper, could you just put it back together?"
Use red for that!
@@nogoodcops6557 orange...you use the orange.
It literally startes on the bottle how to use it.
And all of the ones shown are wrong.
Depending on the application you need either drop near the end or near the top of the screw/bolt.
It is there to avoid the screw/bolt getting lose. Not to glue it in place for eternity. Might as well weld it in that case...would be cheaper as well.
Not to mention probably easier to remove...
engineers: _spend huge stretches of time testing and calculating to determine the optimal way to make something work_
this asshole: “yeah but i don’t like doing that”
@@mellinghedd267 if i bought it, i can use it however i want. Cry your little eyes out some more.
@@bahahahaha8217 well, have fun cracking whatever you're using this "method" on, because locktite doesn't compress. Then on top of that the bolt is gonna totally seize in there and you'll probably end up drilling it out and using a helicoil at best if it isn't totally cracked.
@@bahahahaha8217 ofc man, you bought it you can use it however you want, like a kitchen knife,you bought it you can use it to chop chop vegetables, meat, etc like what it was intended to be, and you can also use it to k*ll someoneor something else, however if you want to make a video "How to..." You have to use it properly so no one can get hurt 😊
Edit: sorry bad english
Depends on the usage. If you never want to take that bolt out, do the last one. If you just need a little extra grip on the bolt, either of the first two work
you can actually see it staring to hydrolock and damage the material at the bottom of the third bolt
Also leaving a pocket of fluid in the end can cause hydraulicing and crack your part.
Exactly this. Fluid can’t escape. It’ll break stuff if you keep tightening it down.
ESPN guy: “common man” you have no business making videos to teach others when you don’t understand it yourself..
And that's not only how you over torque a bolt, but shear it off and permanently glue the trapped piece inside
My old job has someone come out from the company that sold it and taught a class on how to properly use it. He did a bunch of different presentations but one thing they taught was just to apply just a drop.
This is not assembly, but welding for life
That would be the red stuff
This is a tutorial on hydro locking
love how literally EVERY comment is against this, and instead of just looking at the dislikes to click off the vid you gotta go through the comments, damn YT cmon
This is why RUclips should show dislikes, so that misinformation/useless videos like this are pushed to the bottom of the algorithm
But.., but.. Mah Biden
Clearly, the people who made this have never used thread locker in a professional context.
It is more of a "I don't want this to loosen up" over a "I never want this to be removable ever"...
That’s an easy way to piss off the next guy
As a great man once said: just a dab’ll do ya.
The bigger the gob, the better the job...
@@lucash1980 just a whiff of grease is all she needs!
❤️
Just made to prevent the bolt from getting lose due to vibrations, movement, etc. No need to lock it in place forever. 1-2 drops is enough
I wouldn't even do this to my worst enemy 🤣
This is some potential revenge stuff here XD
A few drops are enough.
It's only supposed to prevent the Bolt shaking out by itself not to permanently glue it in
The next guy will probably try to fist fight whoever does it that way.
How to gum up your threads and completely Easter thread locker 101
All three had a critical error. With loctite you never touch the tip of the bottle to metal, hold the bottle off the threads and squeeze a drop or two on to the threads. When loctite contacts metal it has a reaction with the metal threads to harden. Guys who keep dragging their bottle across the threads keep wondering why the tip of the bottle is clogged up every time they use it.
Just created hydraulic pressure at the end of the bolt. Go ahead, tighten down, DO IT!
I didn't know you were supposed to use the entire tube for one bolt. I can't afford to use thread locker anymore lol
The idea is to stick some threads, not all of them. That bolt would potentially snap trying to take it out.
So basically according to this video
Proper use of thread locker: just use as much as you possibly can, the more the merrier.
But fr the 2nd solution was much better than the 3rd one because it also got the thread locker all the way around without excess spilling all over.
I found this interesting until the threadlocker was used 😂
Ну точно, налить в резьбу в отверстие и на болт, чтобы герметично было и закрутить до талого, чтобы порвало нахрен материал. Так некоторые ГБЦ и прикручивают, а потом гадают почему блок лопнул!)
Намазать столько фиксатора, чтобы и сам открутить потом не смог. Его же предполагается кисточкой наносить, небольшим слоем, если я не ошибаюсь.
Могли бы уж сразу эпоксидки налить или холодной сварки
Даа да 😅 это точно, а потом жалуются что блок лопнул или резьбы нету в блоке 😂😂😂.
@@user-wx3kk8ep3k ну там достаточно и пару капель на нести на резьбу.
@@user-ur6uf2mo1b на самом деле способов контровки крепежных деталей очень много и я согласен что столько не нужно. Но всё зависит от множества факторов материала, конструктива и ТД. и тп.
Would love to see them make a video about applying the correct amount of thermal paste to a cpu
"your not just only wasting thread locker, you're also wasting our time"
-ARM
"Trust me I saw a YT video !"
I'd imagine that either of the "first 2 methods" would work fine..
Especially when everyones saying that the 3rd method is not only "over kill," but can cause the casting to crack or break.
The first two methods are pretty overkill too.
If the casting is crap then maybe. Those are guys that think a torque spec has to be dead on or it's no good. They are also the same guys that have special tools with one purpose that they've never used because they used another tool that worked the same and was still the right tool for the job.
Now we need a “correct use of a mop to clean threadlocker off of a floor”
You put two much in the hole and tighten the bolt, it creates a hydraulic effect and can blow out the bottom of the hole on thinner castings.
If you wanna have a harder fight than 2 five gallon pails stuck together than do this 🤣
During my apprenticeship as a machinist I had the chance to take part in a seminar with the product manager of Loctite.
We were told too much threadlock is actually no better than no thread lock at all because it can't harden and could bring more moisture into the connection.
2-3 drops in the hole is enough.
I have been using thread locker literally for years and I've never applied it like this and I've never had anything fall apart either
The first one works perfectly fine. They also sell screw with it already and its less. And if you the screw to be harder to get off , take a stronger threadlocker specialy made for that.
Никогда не применяйте третий вариант. Да и второй тоже. Гидравлическое давление вполне может выдавить болт, срезав резьбу!
Ну а тем, кто советует применять подобные варианты фиксации крепежа, хотелось бы порекомендовать тщательнее подходить к подбору материала и не вводить людей в заблуждение.
Всё верно
And this, children, is how you shear a bolt when you want to remove it.
If I come across any bolt that even looks like the last one, I’m flipping tf out
I have it actually came out pretty easy
At a service station, your hands would have been torn off for such a consumption of thread lock
"Did u come inside?"
🤣🤣🤣
and outside
you only need a drop to lock the threads.the guy who made the video clearly hasnt turned a wrench.. if u need a stronger hold use a different color.
Threadlocker is intended to help prevent the bolt from backing itself out. It is not intended to tighten the bolt. Way too much thread lock. 1 or 2 drops at the end of a bolt threads is more than enough.
If you want a bolt to never come out ever again then: yes, this is perfect. But at this point you could just use super glue
If you do that into a block of any sort you will hydraulically fracture the block because of the liquid. Do exactly the opposite of what this video says..
This guy: “waste 2x the amount of threadlock for a less than 50% increase in performance”
From the other comments it actually seems like he decreased performance. There's a pool of fluid at the bottom which seems to come with some pretty awful consequences.
@@nicholasspidel1471 yeah that too
As someone who ran sli on my computer for 10 years this offended me somehow
I mean, yeah it looks aesthetically pleasing, but that's it. This stuff isn't meant to total bond a bolt into a hole. It's to stop vibration, expansion via heat etc from causing the bolt to back out. This will not only cause massive hydra expansion as it dries out, it will cause torque readings to be I correct. Also possibly more I can't think of off the top of my head.
That's one way for the bolt to never come out again ... Including when you want it to come out
Ага!!! Сейчас !!!!! заверните третий вариант в чугун стаким же объёмом клея и его разорек как стекло.
Ага, потом той жидкостью которая внизу болта при полном закручивании порвёт деталь
Это клей. Он усыхает.
@@Detali_org он скорее всего про то что жидкость несжимаема и при полном закручивании может порвать деталь, хотя это врятли.
@@syxarik_9352
При затягивании она проходит в зазор резьбы, там видно
@@Detali_org в том и дело, что это клей, а не герметик, ему достаточно в одной точке соединить болт с деталью, чтоб тот из неё самопроизвольно не выкрутился. Нах его туда ведро лить?
You know how many times I've seen only a few drops used on the last few threads work perfectly fine?
That first drill went from texture to no texture real fast
This is companies wanting you to over use their product, meaning MORE MONEY, QUICKER. Same with oil changes lol
legit dumbest thing I read today 🤣
Please tell me you’re joking with the oil changes part. Oil changes are important to keep your engine running correctly
yeah enjoy your clogged oil pickup, chewed out bearings, cam lobes and clogged up vvt solenoids 😂
i do mine every 5k kms, no more than 7.5k for customers.
You really believe oil changes are scam? lmfao.