I’ve had the same model inverter installed in my Promaster van since September 2022. I use mainly for charging drill and vacuum pump batteries while driving between jobs. No issues
One thought about the 0 AWG battery cables and the fuse. If they pass through the fire wall of the van, the main fuse should be located very close to the battery. Otherwise, there is the risk of fire. Good job. Your van is really set up nice!!!
Unless you have multiple batteries, that size cable won't even melt the insulation when shorted to ground. I used to work for a stereo shop and saw diy installs where the cable would melt to the exhaust. However you will need 4 automotive batteries to even think about getting full power out of my 3,800 watt inverter..
Man that is nice, and a nice install. Down the road you may want to do a dual battery hookup, just because it may come in handy on a construction site and for storms.
My apologies if you know this stuff already. You'll want to get AGM deep-cycle batteries to run your inverter, especially without the engine running. A typical "car battery" is meant to be discharged maybe to 95% while starting an engine, before being topped off again. It has many plates for the high current needed, but they are very thin, and will erode away if deep-cycled. Deep-cycle batteries have much thicker plates, and AGM (absorptive glass matrix) holds those plates in fiberglass so they are much less likely to crumble to the bottoms of their cells, AND they are more vibration-resistant. Another option would be to use a LiFePO4 battery for your inverter; this would be separate from your starting battery. For a 2000W inverter, make sure the one you get has a 200A BMS (many are just 100A). Note that this battery type should not be charged when below 32F, and many have low-temperature protection to prevent that, and/or a heater to warm the battery so it can be charged.
Marine batteries are deep cycle, I have used many back in the day shrimping. They will hold a charge longer and if they go dead, last longer than a regular battery between charges. So yep I agree with you on that.
I do fine with 3 automotive batteries. But I don't do any long run times with the inverter. It's usually a maximum of 10 minutes. If I do high power pulls for extended time, I'll run the engine which has 150 amp alternator that puts out 80 percent idling.
The battery is critical to suppling an inverter for 2kW or greater. As you mentioned they really need 2 x 100Ahr batteries in parallel to deliver max power.
If you are only going to use an ANL fuse instead of a Class T, it would be safer to put an additional MRBF fuse right at the battery. That would give more protection against a direct short. 1/0 wire will safely carry 170 amps at 90degC rating in a wire assembly, and even more in free air. I used 1/0 for my Xantrex 2000. Technically maximun amp draw to size wires and fuses is calculated at the maximum continuous output of the inverter, in this case 2000 watts divided by the lowest inverter voltage before cutoff, usually 10.5 volts on a 12 volt system, divided by the inverter efficiency, usually 90%, times 1.25. This equals about 265 amps. Most don't wire their systems that heavily. However, 1/0 THHN-2 will do 260 amps in free air and 105degC welding cable or battery cable will exceed that. My take is that 1/0 protected by a 250 amp fuse will do. And yes this whole post is anal. 😂
Considering that the saw needs several times that 13 amps on startup, the inverter has very good surge capability (motor-driven devices typically need 3 to 7 times their running current during startup). Because the inverter is not 100% efficient, you need to adjust your math. At best, the inverter is 85% efficient, possibly with an area (maybe below 800 watts?) where is is 90% efficient. For simple math, I'll use 85% efficient. 2000 watts / 12 volts = 166.67 amps BUT: you need to include efficiency. 166.67 amps / 0.85 (85%) = 196 amps. You'll need at least a 200 amp fuse. That 150 amp fuse will get you 150 * 12 = 1800 watts (on the input of the inverter) * 0.85 (efficiency) = 1530 watts output. To prevent being stranded with a dead battery, I'd suggest adding a true deep cycle battery NOT a "Marine / Deep Cycle" from the auto parts store but a true deep cycle battery that can provide several hundred charge / discharge cycles to 50% or greater discharge. You'll need to read the datasheet for any battery of interest and check the chart which shows depth of discharge (DOD) versus number of cycles. You'll need to determine how long you'll be using battery power for AC and how much AC you'll be using. A Kill-A-Watt meter ($35, amazon, home center) will tell you how much running power each device (vacuum pump, battery charger) uses and, if you leave the Kill-A-Watt meter in place for a full cycle of use or charging, you'll know how many kilowatt hours were used. The kilowatt hours used in a typical vacuum pulldown plus a battery charge or two might be the basis for determining how big your auxiliary battery needs to be (amp hours - not CA or CCA but AH). Interstate Battery has some batteries in the DCM series (DC Mobility for wheelchairs and the like). A 110AH battery is probably in the $200+ range and you might need more than one. You will also find better (and more expensive) AGM batteries from Rolls, Surrette, Trojan and others. Remember that you could also run an extension cord to the truck to use that power for your fridge or a small window A/C during a power outage ;-) If you're interested, I can put a spreadsheet for determining how much battery power is needed to provide how much AC power for how long - it only has about two dozen variables to be filled in but that's because it's very thorough in determining how long your devices will run on XXX battery capacity. I created the spreadsheet as I was exploring solar power - noting big, just a "Wait until daylight" backup system so I'm mot outside in a thunderstorn to get a generator started during a power outage or shoveling 7" of snow in the dark at 30F to get to that generator. My interest is having fridge, furnace and limited lighting for 8-12 hours (the "until daylight") but it works anywhere you're trying to produce your own AC power from batteries. My current backup system is configured for charging from solar power or a grid-powered charged (good option while I'm recovering from spinal fusion surgery - I don't have to go out and clean the solar panels ;-)
@@stephenbullock-yn3vh I think he made a good choice. True sine, while more expensive, is MUCH better for inductive loads like motors, and for sensitive electronics.
Nice inverter but, the not pure ones, had high failure rate and don't last, they put these out for cheapest made and they fail early. That said let's see what happens over time, at least no money out, maybe they corrected in the pure unit. Also check draw with milliamp in line with nothing connected and unit off, the non pure sines where drawing 180ma and will kill your battery over time. Good luck.
I've had a cheap one for around 25 years. Use it at least 3 times per week. I've got another cheap one that's 3,800 watt that I've used for at least 6 years on about 120 camping trips
Hey Curtis, I've been meaning to ask you, how do you like your Xterra? I have a first gen 2000 and it's been a work horse for me over the years, ever since 2014.
Just some information. First you did not mention the output of your alternator. You should not pull more than 75%, max load, of an alternator output for any length of time if you want it to last. 50% would be even better. The reason is heat. The alternator will overheat especially at idle. So, if you have a 130 amp alternator you should not pull more than around 95 amps @ 12v nominal which would be around 1150 watts. Also I would suggest a separate battery for your application and that battery should be a lithium. If you use lithium, it would mean that you would need a special charge controller to limit how much it could draw from the alternator at one time so as not to damage the alternator since lithium batteries have a very low resistance and can over tax the alternator. So, you really should have a starter battery and a separate battery for your inverter. This way you save your alternator, never have to worry about starting the truck to charge your tools, and never have to worry about the truck starting. Also you will shorten the life of a lead acid battery by using it like you are now. Victron or EcoFlow should have what you would need. Just some suggestions.
Hey. CURTIS. ,,, I was wondering. Are you a totally ONE MAN operation. If so do you havr friends or family that can help move air handlers and such ?? Just curious in Idaho. Retired 35 yr HCAC/ R TECH.
@@HVACGUY Thanks for your reply Curtis. I'm a subscriber so I thought you might like to know some of the people who watch your channel. I'm a retired tech. 35 yrs in the trade. I started out duct busting in attics and crawl spaces. Worked for 3 years doing that for a small company of 3 techs and 3 installers when a good friend of mine told me he was leaving the school system. I took his position as a tech and worked there for 15 years. Everything from industrial boilers and chillers and cooling towers , walk in coolers and freezers, all the way down to drinking fountains. Also got well versed in Digitals Controls such as Automated Logic, Johnson Controls, and Trane Tracer and Trane Summit. I had to resign the School System because of my wife's transfer. I ended up in Idaho where I finished my career in the HEAVY INDUSTRIAL part of the HVAC/R TRADE. Hospitals, Schools, working on very large industrial boilers and chillers. And troubleshooting Digital Controls. I really like your channel. And since I'm retired now.... my wife commented when I was watching you crawl through the blown in insulation to make your way back to and air handler. She said..... YOUR RETIRED AND YOUR WATCHING A GUY WORK ON AIR CONDITIONING....?????? I TOLD YEA....BUT ITS CURTIS LOL. TAKE CARE . I thought you might like some feedback of WHO WATCHES. ..
I'm alone and have been for at least 15 years. I handle all the equipment by myself usually including putting airhandlers in the attic. I usually take everything out of the airhandler if putting in the attic. I have a rope hoist system that I use sometimes. The only thing I need help with is package units however I can bring a tractor if I have no help available.
@@Bryan-Hensley I worked mostly alone also. Very much of my work was doing fuel to air ratio analysis on boilers. Some of my accounts were boilers inspections called CSD ( CONTROLS AND SAFETY DEVICES ). Low water cut off, high gas, low gas, reliefvalves, water flow switches etc. Mostly done because the clients insurance companies required it. One of the County Jails had 18 boilers. Had to have an escort go around with me lol. I hated working there and at the State Penatentury( sp) . But glad I'm retired and just taking it easy. It's not easy working by yourself ALL THE TIME. Sometimes it's just nice to have help. Someone to talk to at least.....
@@mikeglasgow9618 I don't know.. I'm much more productive by myself. I don't really want to talking when I'm working, it slows me down bad.. I also live alone, except for 10 cats. I'm 58 and I'm thinking about closing my business and driving a delivery truck until I retire. I do enjoy talking to the customer after I get the job done..
Printed right on the face, "Output: AC 105V~125V, 60Hz." WTF? Why on earth would ANYONE even connect something that is said to put out 105V? I would put that POS right back in the box, and return it. I don't think I would want this guy working on my A/C for that matter either, as he should know better. If I had 105V anywhere on my property the power co would be on speed dial. Great for electric space heaters, but will prematurely destroy anything else. Sure, just let the Amperes roll!! Very dangerous equipment, and by design makes it even worse.
I've got a 3,800 watt inverter in mine. It will run 110v recovery machine, vac pump, microwave, and portable AC.
I’ve had the same model inverter installed in my Promaster van since September 2022. I use mainly for charging drill and vacuum pump batteries while driving between jobs. No issues
One thought about the 0 AWG battery cables and the fuse. If they pass through the fire wall of the van, the main fuse should be located very close to the battery. Otherwise, there is the risk of fire. Good job. Your van is really set up nice!!!
Unless you have multiple batteries, that size cable won't even melt the insulation when shorted to ground. I used to work for a stereo shop and saw diy installs where the cable would melt to the exhaust. However you will need 4 automotive batteries to even think about getting full power out of my 3,800 watt inverter..
Inverters are a Great idea for a contractor like you. Thanks for the video. 👍🙏
Great install very handy happy Father’s Day to you and riley
Thanks! You too!
4:51 the new hire wanting to ask the boss what to do but the boss is talkin' on the phone.....
I really love that new van and wrap. That looks so sharp!
Man that is nice, and a nice install. Down the road you may want to do a dual battery hookup, just because it may come in handy on a construction site and for storms.
I do need one of those!
My apologies if you know this stuff already. You'll want to get AGM deep-cycle batteries to run your inverter, especially without the engine running. A typical "car battery" is meant to be discharged maybe to 95% while starting an engine, before being topped off again. It has many plates for the high current needed, but they are very thin, and will erode away if deep-cycled. Deep-cycle batteries have much thicker plates, and AGM (absorptive glass matrix) holds those plates in fiberglass so they are much less likely to crumble to the bottoms of their cells, AND they are more vibration-resistant.
Another option would be to use a LiFePO4 battery for your inverter; this would be separate from your starting battery. For a 2000W inverter, make sure the one you get has a 200A BMS (many are just 100A). Note that this battery type should not be charged when below 32F, and many have low-temperature protection to prevent that, and/or a heater to warm the battery so it can be charged.
Marine batteries are deep cycle, I have used many back in the day shrimping. They will hold a charge longer and if they go dead, last longer than a regular battery between charges. So yep I agree with you on that.
I do fine with 3 automotive batteries. But I don't do any long run times with the inverter. It's usually a maximum of 10 minutes. If I do high power pulls for extended time, I'll run the engine which has 150 amp alternator that puts out 80 percent idling.
Very Nice!! Good install too!
Great Review, because of you I will be ordering one of those inverters 🙂. YU
The battery is critical to suppling an inverter for 2kW or greater. As you mentioned they really need 2 x 100Ahr batteries in parallel to deliver max power.
Nice product and nice demo
If you are only going to use an ANL fuse instead of a Class T, it would be safer to put an additional MRBF fuse right at the battery. That would give more protection against a direct short. 1/0 wire will safely carry 170 amps at 90degC rating in a wire assembly, and even more in free air. I used 1/0 for my Xantrex 2000. Technically maximun amp draw to size wires and fuses is calculated at the maximum continuous output of the inverter, in this case 2000 watts divided by the lowest inverter voltage before cutoff, usually 10.5 volts on a 12 volt system, divided by the inverter efficiency, usually 90%, times 1.25. This equals about 265 amps. Most don't wire their systems that heavily. However, 1/0 THHN-2 will do 260 amps in free air and 105degC welding cable or battery cable will exceed that. My take is that 1/0 protected by a 250 amp fuse will do. And yes this whole post is anal. 😂
Hopefully the rain will let up soon for you. 😎👍
The sun was shining today
hey do they make the sawcat circular still have not saw one. that has good strong power. good work and be bless and safe.
I'd be curious to see that saw cut through a 2x4 on the inverter
Very cool 👍👍👍
🇺🇸
Considering that the saw needs several times that 13 amps on startup, the inverter has very good surge capability (motor-driven devices typically need 3 to 7 times their running current during startup).
Because the inverter is not 100% efficient, you need to adjust your math. At best, the inverter is 85% efficient, possibly with an area (maybe below 800 watts?) where is is 90% efficient. For simple math, I'll use 85% efficient. 2000 watts / 12 volts = 166.67 amps BUT: you need to include efficiency. 166.67 amps / 0.85 (85%) = 196 amps. You'll need at least a 200 amp fuse. That 150 amp fuse will get you 150 * 12 = 1800 watts (on the input of the inverter) * 0.85 (efficiency) = 1530 watts output.
To prevent being stranded with a dead battery, I'd suggest adding a true deep cycle battery NOT a "Marine / Deep Cycle" from the auto parts store but a true deep cycle battery that can provide several hundred charge / discharge cycles to 50% or greater discharge. You'll need to read the datasheet for any battery of interest and check the chart which shows depth of discharge (DOD) versus number of cycles. You'll need to determine how long you'll be using battery power for AC and how much AC you'll be using. A Kill-A-Watt meter ($35, amazon, home center) will tell you how much running power each device (vacuum pump, battery charger) uses and, if you leave the Kill-A-Watt meter in place for a full cycle of use or charging, you'll know how many kilowatt hours were used. The kilowatt hours used in a typical vacuum pulldown plus a battery charge or two might be the basis for determining how big your auxiliary battery needs to be (amp hours - not CA or CCA but AH). Interstate Battery has some batteries in the DCM series (DC Mobility for wheelchairs and the like). A 110AH battery is probably in the $200+ range and you might need more than one. You will also find better (and more expensive) AGM batteries from Rolls, Surrette, Trojan and others.
Remember that you could also run an extension cord to the truck to use that power for your fridge or a small window A/C during a power outage ;-)
If you're interested, I can put a spreadsheet for determining how much battery power is needed to provide how much AC power for how long - it only has about two dozen variables to be filled in but that's because it's very thorough in determining how long your devices will run on XXX battery capacity. I created the spreadsheet as I was exploring solar power - noting big, just a "Wait until daylight" backup system so I'm mot outside in a thunderstorn to get a generator started during a power outage or shoveling 7" of snow in the dark at 30F to get to that generator. My interest is having fridge, furnace and limited lighting for 8-12 hours (the "until daylight") but it works anywhere you're trying to produce your own AC power from batteries. My current backup system is configured for charging from solar power or a grid-powered charged (good option while I'm recovering from spinal fusion surgery - I don't have to go out and clean the solar panels ;-)
Hope you have a speedy recovery!
You'd need a soft start AC for that inverter
Nice inverter curtis.can you do another test.check voltage while doing out going watts
I actually did that in some of the video that wasn’t used. I got 114V, 60Hz, and 50% duty cycle.
@HVACGUY nice.thank you for sharing and responding to me.I am looking for inverter for my self in that class of 2000 w
@@stephenbullock-yn3vh I think he made a good choice. True sine, while more expensive, is MUCH better for inductive loads like motors, and for sensitive electronics.
Nice inverter but, the not pure ones, had high failure rate and don't last, they put these out for cheapest made and they fail early. That said let's see what happens over time, at least no money out, maybe they corrected in the pure unit. Also check draw with milliamp in line with nothing connected and unit off, the non pure sines where drawing 180ma and will kill your battery over time. Good luck.
I've had a cheap one for around 25 years. Use it at least 3 times per week. I've got another cheap one that's 3,800 watt that I've used for at least 6 years on about 120 camping trips
Hi Curtis on the other van install you put a 200 amp braker and a fuse not on this, can you tell why or doesn't make any difference
Battery wasn’t under the hood, didn’t feel the need.
@HVACGUY thanks for your answer I have a dodge promaster high roof 2022 I'm doing the exact same thing, thanks again. From lake worth fl
it will run a small window AC unit.
It might.
Hey Curtis, I've been meaning to ask you, how do you like your Xterra? I have a first gen 2000 and it's been a work horse for me over the years, ever since 2014.
I like it. 2006. Never had any problems with it.
👍👍😊😊
Good. Morinig
Just some information. First you did not mention the output of your alternator. You should not pull more than 75%, max load, of an alternator output for any length of time if you want it to last. 50% would be even better. The reason is heat. The alternator will overheat especially at idle. So, if you have a 130 amp alternator you should not pull more than around 95 amps @ 12v nominal which would be around 1150 watts.
Also I would suggest a separate battery for your application and that battery should be a lithium. If you use lithium, it would mean that you would need a special charge controller to limit how much it could draw from the alternator at one time so as not to damage the alternator since lithium batteries have a very low resistance and can over tax the alternator. So, you really should have a starter battery and a separate battery for your inverter.
This way you save your alternator, never have to worry about starting the truck to charge your tools, and never have to worry about the truck starting. Also you will shorten the life of a lead acid battery by using it like you are now. Victron or EcoFlow should have what you would need. Just some suggestions.
Details on the battery.
I need it
Hey. CURTIS. ,,, I was wondering. Are you a totally ONE MAN operation. If so do you havr friends or family that can help move air handlers and such ?? Just curious in Idaho. Retired 35 yr HCAC/ R TECH.
I’m alone. I do hire friends to help sometimes.
@@HVACGUY Thanks for your reply Curtis. I'm a subscriber so I thought you might like to know some of the people who watch your channel. I'm a retired tech. 35 yrs in the trade. I started out duct busting in attics and crawl spaces. Worked for 3 years doing that for a small company of 3 techs and 3 installers when a good friend of mine told me he was leaving the school system. I took his position as a tech and worked there for 15 years. Everything from industrial boilers and chillers and cooling towers , walk in coolers and freezers, all the way down to drinking fountains. Also got well versed in Digitals Controls such as Automated Logic, Johnson Controls, and Trane Tracer and Trane Summit. I had to resign the School System because of my wife's transfer. I ended up in Idaho where I finished my career in the HEAVY INDUSTRIAL part of the HVAC/R TRADE. Hospitals, Schools, working on very large industrial boilers and chillers. And troubleshooting Digital Controls. I really like your channel. And since I'm retired now.... my wife commented when I was watching you crawl through the blown in insulation to make your way back to and air handler. She said..... YOUR RETIRED AND YOUR WATCHING A GUY WORK ON AIR CONDITIONING....?????? I TOLD YEA....BUT ITS CURTIS LOL. TAKE CARE . I thought you might like some feedback of WHO WATCHES. ..
I'm alone and have been for at least 15 years. I handle all the equipment by myself usually including putting airhandlers in the attic. I usually take everything out of the airhandler if putting in the attic. I have a rope hoist system that I use sometimes. The only thing I need help with is package units however I can bring a tractor if I have no help available.
@@Bryan-Hensley I worked mostly alone also. Very much of my work was doing fuel to air ratio analysis on boilers. Some of my accounts were boilers inspections called CSD ( CONTROLS AND SAFETY DEVICES ). Low water cut off, high gas, low gas, reliefvalves, water flow switches etc. Mostly done because the clients insurance companies required it. One of the County Jails had 18 boilers. Had to have an escort go around with me lol. I hated working there and at the State Penatentury( sp) . But glad I'm retired and just taking it easy. It's not easy working by yourself ALL THE TIME. Sometimes it's just nice to have help. Someone to talk to at least.....
@@mikeglasgow9618 I don't know.. I'm much more productive by myself. I don't really want to talking when I'm working, it slows me down bad.. I also live alone, except for 10 cats. I'm 58 and I'm thinking about closing my business and driving a delivery truck until I retire. I do enjoy talking to the customer after I get the job done..
How's the work going down south, we're very slow up north
Busy
I’m in Maryland, it’s slower this year for sure
@@HVACGUY im north of atl, and weather is around 75-82
It's slow in East Tennessee. I don't think it's been 90 yet and very seldom hitting the 80s. Must be that global warming.
@@Bryan-Hensley you’d be surprised how the warming affects things…
Do i have to keep it plugged in to use it ?
We no need to f see you unpack
Printed right on the face, "Output: AC 105V~125V, 60Hz." WTF? Why on earth would ANYONE even connect something that is said to put out 105V? I would put that POS right back in the box, and return it. I don't think I would want this guy working on my A/C for that matter either, as he should know better. If I had 105V anywhere on my property the power co would be on speed dial. Great for electric space heaters, but will prematurely destroy anything else. Sure, just let the Amperes roll!! Very dangerous equipment, and by design makes it even worse.