The New KING of Klipper - KLP1 is FAST & CHEAP
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- With an advanced feature set at an entry level price, the Kingroon KLP1 is the modern day Ender 3. It's a fully-enclosed, Core XY printer running Klipper firmware. In this video I do a deep dive into the KLP1. I explain the pros, the cons, and what niche it fills in today's crowded 3D printer market.
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Thanks for watching! I forgot to mention the price. It retails for $379 USD, with discounts regularly available.
Things like very dark tinted windows, melty fan shroud, door not quite lining up, top lid when open hitting the spool, etc make me think the new "fast 3D printing" version of a race to the bottom has begun. Better than the slow version we've been in for over a decade, but still not great. A good user experience should be very high on the list when a company puts out a cheaper printer since it will often be bought as a first printer, and when they have weird issues that a newbie won't be prepared for, that's how you turn someone off to 3D printing in general.
That said, thanks for showing it to us so we know what's up.
Thanks for watching and commenting. These 3D printing companies need closed focus groups. Instead, they send printers to RUclipsrs for reviews, which only hurts their reputation when issues arise. All of the things I observed could have been caught and resolved in the product development process by somebody with a basic level of experience. That could have taken this machine from good to great. But overall, it's still good value for what they're charging for it, and most of the issues are minor ones that can easily be resolved or worked around.
Calling it the new king is in this version too much honour, a first time user would encounter a showstopper with a deformed part. I consider the title to be a click bait therefore
Yeah ,like. Bambu? Such a "great" printer, only why their support is so slammed with a bunch of dummies that can't use it? I opened a ticket 8 days ago and still nothing from them.
I had never asked them a print question because I went through a learning curve on creality.
Printers like this are perfect for beginners because they will teach them a lot more about the whole 3d printing world.
@@ygk3dyes it is. I have x1c and my brother got 2 k1 for under 700 $, I say his choice is way better than mine.
What I'm starting to learn is that Marlin was what was holding back through the printing. Klipper is just the way to go. you can take any midrange printer and make it a solid option
To be fair, Marlin runs on 8 bit boards. Klipper required much more processing power. But as compute power gets cheaper, it just makes sense to use it. Klipper has done a good job being on the forefront of that trend.
@@ygk3d that is very true. 3d printing is in a great position to really fixate itself into the common household
Meanwhile the king of fast mass market is bambu labs, on Marlin.... I think you're assessment of Marlin versus Klipper isn't rooted in fact just an ambiguous statement.
They made their own firmware, and it's not based on marlin (if it were, they'd be legally required to open source their firmware)
Input shaping can make printer accelerate faster without too much ringing, though details can get washed out in the process (when using higher acceleration that the shaper can compensate without sacrifaces).
Pressure/Linear advance can compensate extrusion during acceleration, so corners don't bulge or look like rice crispies.
Klipper is known to have both.
Marlin has had Linear Advance for a long time (and for a while it has worked with standalone silent steppers), ZV IS compensation for some time and new Fixed-Time Motion with multiple shapers (both also work with standalone silent steppers).
What Marlin does not have is easy shaper calibration for more than single resonant frequency.
Klipper *cannot make printers print faster* (as in mm/s or mm3/s), so no, it's not Marlin that's holding back the printing. It's manufacturers being cheap on firmware, hotends, motion systems, other hardware.
Also, you cannot compare e.g. _plain old Ender_ to pretty much *anything* 2023 offered 😅
Hi, you said that the RP2040 is used for the klipper computations which isn't really the case here. The RP2040 seems to be on the toolhead board just to control the extruder, fans, probe and accelerometer. To me it looks like the processor (not MCU) is in the mainboard under the green heatsink, also next to what I would guess is the ram of the system. That handles the klipper computations and RP2040 is just a secondary MCU.
Ah, yes, you may be right.
Great review, thanks for the good work. I have a KP3S and I’m going to look at this as an upgrade, if not a bambu lab machine.
Thank you!
Ok, this is a great offering and as such totally outperforms an Ender 3, but ... I started 3d printing by buying an Ender 3 Pro for < €200 after a lot of hesitation on spending that amount on something I might throw out afrer a couple of print attempts. And I guess a lot of potential future 3d printer users may be like that. So, in that context I'd rather say the Ender 3 v3 SE is the new Ender 3. It has everything to allow new users to succeed at a price level that can convince people not knowing much on 3d printing to still jump into the deep ... $379 (which for Europe will likely end up > €400 with taxes and such) is ok, but not what the Ender 3 was for my 3d printing "generation" (just 3 years ago).
I've been in this boat too - didn't want to spend a lot of money on something, that i probably will not like. And i ended up buying an Ender 3.
But the truth is Ender 3 requires a lot of upgrades - BL touch, Sprite Extruder, PEI surface is a necessity, while the silent board and led bar light is a things are nice to have.
And of course Klipper - it's essential! Let's be honest: printers without it are obsolete, and it requires a Raspberry Pi like computer, plus Pi Pico and ADXL345 for input shaping resonance measuring. And a lot of knowledge to set it all up.
And this is not all - now i realized that i need an enclosure for my printer.
Altho i had a lot of fun with all that staff, i think many people will not share my excitement, and it was much nicer for them just to buy this Kingroon, that have everything i mention for the price i spent combined, minus time i spent to set everything up.
@@I000I Sure, I too have upgraded to CoreXY since the Ender 3 and now even have a Bambu on the way, but the Ender 3's major achievement has been to be the cheap introduction to 3d printing for people totally not knowledgeable on the topic. I have bashed Creality many times on their bad decisions, but I have to say the Ender 3 V3 SE is truly deserving the Ender 3 name and beats the original for newbies as bed leveling - reason #1 for newbies to fail - is automatic and still at that low price point. Most other Ender 3 wannabees (V2 and newer) in my opinion do not deserve that name and neither does this CoreXY. Sure, it offers a lot for the price for those knowing how to leverage it all, but that's not what would convince newbies. Probably the Bambu A1 mini would tick more newbie needs, but honestly for the price the Ender 3 V3 SE seems very hard to beat. I would suggest to Creality to stop making all their other Ender 3 printers apart from the V3 SE and KE as the bad experiences those others may give newbies can turn them off from 3d printing and hence hurt sales in the long run.
This looks like my 3rd Printer... just ordered after watching your video 😅
Congrats!
I have one more question about the extruder. Everything seems to be made of metal except the gear wheel. So the housing and inner parts are also made of metal? Most competitors do have plastic parts where the filament goes down the hotend and clogging issues often occur. So a solid extruder would be a good selling point....
Not at the printer right now to confirm but from what I recall it is all metal.
Thanks for the informative Video... I need to fix the D3vil Burner for Upside-down prints ... in anyway its made to be print Frontside up also D3vilBurner V2 ( knomi v2) is designed a lil better
It's funny. Right as linear rails are getting popular people are talking about how fast they wear out and maybe rods or v-wheels are better... heh
Curious why they went with the smaller build volume. I mean it's only a little more to get to a "standard" size. I wonder what is causing the inaccuracy in printing. Have to take a look at the belt and pulley quality and the steppers/drivers maybe.
Thanx for the review!
Thanks for watching!
"Is provided with Profiles" A First I believe, after searching for three months I finally found Creality Ender-3 V2 Neo profile. Good review, is/was there any machine information available that would allow you to switch the controller out (ZXY gear ratios, hardware ports)? I just finished a Benchy, 2 hours 12 minutes on my 90-day old Ender-3 V2 Neo, technology marches on and pet rocks grow dust or get donated to neighborhood kid's groups.
I got the first version without screen (ordered it on the day of launch). It is horrible. Worst printer I’ve used. Kingroon wouldn’t let me return it, they just sent me parts, that fixed nothing. It’s in the bin now.
That's a shame. Sorry for your luck. The Klipper screen is what intrigued me most about this printer. I haven't had to deal with their support, so can't attest to that. Not sure what other changes they made from V1 to V2, but the overall experience was a positive one for me. Still not perfect but good value for the money.
I like it, it seems to have a modern architecture, more or less standard parts. Not so good seems to be the part cooling (single direction).
After testing resonance compensation, what are the resulting frequency and acceleration that Klipper gives?
At this price just save for a P1s
Thank you very informative, looks like this will be my first 3d printer
I have concerns about the cantilever bed. I think the may have beefed it up a bit since first release.
Cantilevered beds/gantrys are always a little off putting. They seem like they shouldn't work as well as they do. But the A1 Mini, and a few others (Prusa Mini, Kingroon KLP3), has proved that high speed, high quality printing is still possible with this setup. A cantilevered bed, like seen here, seems like a safer bet than a cantilevered gantry, since the Z axis moves slower and less often. I didn't notice any issues with it in my testing.
Earlier reviews saw a lot of deflection on the edge furthest from the mount point that resulted in artifacts on larger prints.
@@JohnOlson ah, interesting. I haven’t seen those. Do you recall who reported on it?
@@ygk3d Cantilevered beds are fine if supported properly on small printers. Would not want to run one on a big printer bed.
@@stevedegeorge726a thin 180mm pcb bed is about the max id do for a cantilever design, although you could make a bigger setup work that would require double bearings on the rods or 2 carriages per rail with a diagonal support that takes up a lot of z space and isnt much cheaper than a 2 or 3z setup
No, the king's are VORON, RATRIG, and VZ. This thing would shake apart at those speeds!
Fair point 😅. King of pre-canned Klipper perhaps. I just like how they didn’t water it down and shipped it with vanilla Klipperscreen.
I want a small printer so I am debating on getting this or the troodon mini
I’ll have a Troodon Mini review coming soon too :)
Makes me look forward to seeing an elegoo xy printer in the sprint
I think we'll see all the brands that haven't yet released Core XY machines releasing their versions in early 2024.
Looks like cooling can´t keep up with the print speed as well.
I need a printer that can do 36x36x36 print size and do it as fast as possible. What can you recommend?
A 400^3 RatRig V-Core 3 would do the trick if you’re willing to build it.
@@ygk3d id rather buy complete working machine than build it my self.
The Kingroon KLP1 CoreXY Printer have unlimited Klipper by manufacturer?
As far as I can tell it is just regular Klipper. They have deactivated auto updates though. Not sure what would happen if you tried to update to the latest version. It might break something. But they have given you the adapter required to flash the firmware to the board, so at least you could recover it if that happened.
@@ygk3d I am glad they disabled auto updates. Does the printer work? They why are we updating it unless its a new needed feature? A few years back I had a klipper update that broke the printer. If my printers work I NEVER update them.
Okay, so do I get this, or pay the extra $50 to get a Creality K1?
Good question… K1 is a bit bigger, has an aux fan, and a chamber light. My main reason for preferring the KLP1 is that it’s running normal Klipper with basic Klipperscreen, which is preferred in my opinion to the manufacturer specific firmware / UI implementations.
I have a K1 and I love it. I don't know if you have Experience or not but I would definitely go with the K1 since it offers more premade profiles with different materials, is bigger and, if you want to, you can root it and have full Access to Klipper.
The only thing he did quickly was unfortunately broke
Looks way better than Creality K1 by a ton.
The K1 has the edge on build volume, but I like how the KLP1 is running unadulterated Klipper.
@@ygk3d The latest firmware for the K1 is unlocked.
👌👌👏👏
AVOID this printer. KP3S is awesome but they don't know how to make a reliable CoreXY machine. I have a Creality K1 and it's perfect, but definitely getting a P1S next 😍
Nearly $400 isn't that cheap for many. $200 is cheap, $379 is affordable at best. I'm not saying it's not worth it, just knocking your use of catch phrases.
ore XY is shit to todays real part printers, how do you do compensation on dimension accuracy, since 2 motors are used of single axis this is not possible. Bye bye 0.1mm accurate parts not possible.
Terrible printer with many problems and a painful technical and customer service. It came to me with the head loose and the solution they gave me was to remove the screws from another side. When you print with the caps on with PLA and PETG, there are continuous jams in the hotend, clogging the barrel, making it unusable. When you ask them, they wash their hands.
King of what !!! Ridiculous title
King of what? looks all bad.
Please excuse me to iterate from the latest Whitney Webb interview.. there will be an EMP blast on all electronics within a year and a half in an attempt to privatize the internet so download back up and Faraday bag all electronics you don't want wiped. Communicate to friends and developers. Save your work
Niggles aside it does seem like they at least "get it".. they understand what's largely important and haven't ruined what makes a core-xy klipper printer decent.
Exactly!
Nah, too many compromises. I learned from Creality, you don't have to have the best, but shop smarter.
wow last year I bought a KP3S and thought they really made it cheap, then this
hello, I tried the standard boat with the PLA provided with the printer, 3 times the PLA cuts under the extruder then Strats again..... I did the pressure calibration, all the things said in the manual. do you have ideas? maybe I should use a PLA on a bobine? regards
Corexy at this price, even if its faulty has its place. For people who like to tinker, which is what started 3d printing, this seems like a great alternative for people who like bambu printers but dislike how closed down and propriatary it is.
i dont own either of those printers so i could be wrong.
There is a lot to like in the Kingroon KLP1, and the deficiencies should be easy to fix in an upgraded model. Most of the low cost Klipper machines do a factory input shaping calibration and use that for all printers in all conditions. Kudos to Kingroon for not only having an accelerometer on the print head so each machine can be calibrated in each location, but also for making it so easy to do the pressure advance calibration which other printers program from the factory as well. The full version of open source Klipper is always desirable to manufacturers crippling it to make their own proprietary versions. Finally, good job on providing profiles for Cura, PrusaSlicer and OrcaSlicer, even if they're only PLA profiles. Other materials could be added in the profiles without much effort. I hate each 3D printer shipping with a reskinned version of Cura that's two years old.
Lately i have seen the K1 for this price. I had one, I would probably get this haha.
They've slashed the price on the K1 quite considerably, especially for Black Friday. Regular retail price is around $200 more than KLP1.
210x210x210 ... really in this day and age?
Canti lever bed on a high speed printer..... 😂
cantilever bed is a deal breaker for me, making the k1 a better option still
I haven’t seen any adverse effects in my testing so far.
@@ygk3d Igor gaspar found .01mm of deformation per 100g mass on the bed. The larger the object, the more the y-z skew changes
@@1fareast14 Depends on the build quality. I have an original Anycubic 4Max with 12mm rods and deformation is a non issue.
Too small
im looking to replace some of my older machines with newer up to date printers, all mine work great but it had been 3 or 4 years since id purchased a new printer an i recently decided to get a bambu lab p1s combo with the ams an its completely changed the way i look at my old 3d printers. they work but not near as fast or as accurate for at least the what im seeing from my bambu labs p1s so im assuming that all these newer machines like the klp1 or the k1c from creality are all worth the money for the machines but after buying the p1s the only way i'll ever buy another brand again is if its actually cheaper while still being a solid machine. the bambu studio an the ams is something i think bring alot of value to these machines an is what makes me not want to try other brands but ive never been a fan boy of anything so i got to try at least the creality k1max or something similar to it. the build volume is the biggest complaint i have with my bambu lab p1s but thats only cause there alot of stuff id love to print in multicolor that i cant unless i cut the model into pieces an sometimes thats not a option but im really wanting to upgrade a few of my older machines with something new an the klp1 and the k1c or k1max are the 3 i have my mind set on right now im just trying to figure out what is the best bang for the buck or if i should just say hell with it an buy another p1s or p1p. creality has there new ender 3 v3 coming out that is a core xy bed slinger so thats something that is going to be an interesting machine but if it doesnt come with linear rails on all its axis or at least the x an z with larger 10mm or 12mm linear rods i think you would be better of spending the money on bambu labs a1 bed slinger instead cause at least it has linear rails on all its axis so u know its going to be as rigid as it can for the speeds they are printing at.
Would also be a good farm printer? Like, for printing those insulators for the electric fences? 😜
Nah. I meant for the cows and sheep to play with. The pigs and goats prefer resin printing. 😂
I'd like to see this get paired with an MMU somehow.
The AMS will remain Bambu’s competitive advantage until someone puts forth an equivalent solution that is equally as easy to use.
@@ygk3d Ankermake is making a version of the AMS, they call it the Colour Engine, more info about it is available on their website
wait for Phrozen to fully unveil the Arco FDM 3D printer and it's... Arco Material System?
@@djispro4272 Arco Material System… AMS.. has a certain ring to it 😂
Chameleon mk4 might be good option?
Actually this here is the first positive review I see about that thing...😁😁
Interesting. Not sure what issues other reviewers are experiencing but it was a positive experience for me. At the price point, it’s not a bad machine in my opinion.
great review!
Thank you!
good Vid. was actually wondering about these. thank you!
Thank you!