The guy who used to do all my resilvering has retired so after watching this I'm going to try myself. Thanks for taking the time to produce this. Best regards to you
This is great help for the work I’m doing on a Flemish grandfather clock from 1700s. The waxing part looked quite intimidating, but you’ve pulled it off real good!!
Thank you! This is actually a reasonably accessible project for many people. It takes some elbow grease, but if you're careful, you will get a good result.
Beautiful job! I re-silvered a chapter ring for a German bracket clock a couple decades ago using that method, and it still looks lovely today. Though I might add a coat of Renaissance wax now, to protect it for longer.
I think you have solved my problem - I will come back, but up to now I have sealed the silvered surface with good quality recommended lacquer and I have streaking on the silver work appearing after about 2 hrs or so. I have tried up to 5 times to solve this without success. I will use the Renascence Wax in future as a finishing protective coat. If this works for the silver work and brass work I will be indebted to you for ever. it may take me some time as I am working on a slate clock and silver work is not often part of their work.
Beautiful job ! The spandrels and matted center would probably have been gilded originally, with gold leaf or a fire-gilding technique. Pity you don't have the original case though. A London clock like this would have been a item of high luxury in it's time
Thanks for your information - that's very possible. Yes - it's a shame the case didn't make it, but I guess the fact that the movement is still working great 300 years later is impressive in itself.
I use semichrome and your Renaissance Wax but I don't know how the wax holds up after years. I use a wax stick that doesn't break down with 50/50 shellac/alcohol, it's from Luther's Supply. How do you find the Renaissance Wax holds up over time? It seems to be okay after about a year but not as good as a thin coat shellac and alcohol. Although on polished brass I find shellac can show streaks but I don't like highly polished brass, I like 0000 steel wool as my final prep before shellac. It give a nice satin finish. Thanks for the great video.
You did a fabulous job on the face but how come you didn't use the engraver's wax in the face's border and the eengraving around the window for the calendar?
I've used semichrome, glitz, wenol, etc. They all seam to be the same product as a 3m product called metal polish part "39527. I pay about $15.00 for 10 ounces, a fantastic buy. They all are pink color and smell of ammonia with most likely jeweler's rougue. Like your videos, well done. Where is your shop at?
Hi Brian - thanks for your message and the compliments, and the tip on the potentially cheaper simichrome alternative. I will check it out. My shop is in the St. Paul, MN area.
I have a similar face for a clock I am building, but no movement. How interchangeable are the clock movements? I need to learn how to locate a suitable movement that can be made to run again. Thank you for the helpful video!
It may be possible to adapt your dial to a different movement, but as far as I know and have experienced, there are no standards. Most important is to match up the winding arbor holes and seconds bit hole, but you will also need to match up the dial pegs. You could potentially modify the movement, but you would have to get them together to see how they would fit.
@@MinnesotaClocksandWatches Is it possible to guess whether this would have been a 30 hr vs. an 8 day movement, or is that not important for trying to match up? Thanks!
I'm sure there are - horology is a pretty unbroken line of knowledge transfer through the last 400 years, but I don't have a source personally. I have never heard it disputed in the clock world. There are a very few clocks that had actual solid silver dial components, but as clocks like these were already extremely expensive in 1725, silvering was a way to increase readability in low light as well as enhance the dial appearance for a relatively low cost. I'm not sure what's behind your question, but if you want to research this further, many clock theory books that you can find today are reprints of works that are 150+ years old, and sources from the UK would be a good place to start.
@@MinnesotaClocksandWatches I recognize that case as one that would have originally been meant for a French clock called a Morbier or Comtoise. It’s odd that it now houses an English movement.
With recently washed hands and multiple rinses during the process, there isn't much finger oil to create a future tarnish problem, and avoiding touching the final silvered stage after rinsing before putting the protective coating on is a good idea. Certainly gloves could be used if you prefer, though I doubt the original silverer in 1750 wore nitrile gloves.
The guy who used to do all my resilvering has retired so after watching this I'm going to try myself. Thanks for taking the time to produce this. Best regards to you
Wow, that came out amazing!👏🏼
Wow what a beautiful looking job,once again many thanks, the whole video was a delight. Jim from AUSTRALIA.
This is great help for the work I’m doing on a Flemish grandfather clock from 1700s. The waxing part looked quite intimidating, but you’ve pulled it off real good!!
Wonderfully done video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I think I’m now confident enough to attempt my first dial.
Good luck on your silvering attempt! The good news is that if you don't like something, you can sand it off and try again.
This is brilliant...thanks for sharing this with us
Glad you enjoyed it
That looks great. I have a 1780 brass face like that and need to do the same! Now I’ll have help. Thanks a lot!!!
Thank you! This is actually a reasonably accessible project for many people. It takes some elbow grease, but if you're careful, you will get a good result.
Beautiful Job !
Beautiful job! I re-silvered a chapter ring for a German bracket clock a couple decades ago using that method, and it still looks lovely today. Though I might add a coat of Renaissance wax now, to protect it for longer.
Great! I'm glad it has held up so well for you.
I think you have solved my problem - I will come back, but up to now I have sealed the silvered surface with good quality recommended lacquer and I have streaking on the silver work appearing after about 2 hrs or so. I have tried up to 5 times to solve this without success. I will use the Renascence Wax in future as a finishing protective coat. If this works for the silver work and brass work I will be indebted to you for ever. it may take me some time as I am working on a slate clock and silver work is not often part of their work.
Best of luck with this. I learned this trick from the NAWCC clock repair forum. The NAWCC is a fantastic resource - please check it out.
@@MinnesotaClocksandWatches thank you. Top Class Video
I am speechless. Simple incredible.
Beautiful job ! The spandrels and matted center would probably have been gilded originally, with gold leaf or a fire-gilding technique. Pity you don't have the original case though. A London clock like this would have been a item of high luxury in it's time
Thanks for your information - that's very possible. Yes - it's a shame the case didn't make it, but I guess the fact that the movement is still working great 300 years later is impressive in itself.
What about faces with raised numbers?
I use semichrome and your Renaissance Wax but I don't know how the wax holds up after years. I use a wax stick that doesn't break down with 50/50 shellac/alcohol, it's from Luther's Supply.
How do you find the Renaissance Wax holds up over time? It seems to be okay after about a year but not as good as a thin coat shellac and alcohol. Although on polished brass I find shellac can show streaks but I don't like highly polished brass, I like 0000 steel wool as my final prep before shellac. It give a nice satin finish.
Thanks for the great video.
You did a fabulous job on the face but how come you didn't use the engraver's wax in the face's border and the eengraving around the window for the calendar?
That would look nice.
Why not use a nylon brush instead of a brass brush to polish the texture area?
I've used semichrome, glitz, wenol, etc. They all seam to be the same product as a 3m product called metal polish part "39527. I pay about $15.00 for 10 ounces, a fantastic buy.
They all are pink color and smell of ammonia with most likely jeweler's rougue.
Like your videos, well done.
Where is your shop at?
Hi Brian - thanks for your message and the compliments, and the tip on the potentially cheaper simichrome alternative. I will check it out. My shop is in the St. Paul, MN area.
I have a similar face for a clock I am building, but no movement. How interchangeable are the clock movements? I need to learn how to locate a suitable movement that can be made to run again. Thank you for the helpful video!
It may be possible to adapt your dial to a different movement, but as far as I know and have experienced, there are no standards. Most important is to match up the winding arbor holes and seconds bit hole, but you will also need to match up the dial pegs. You could potentially modify the movement, but you would have to get them together to see how they would fit.
@@MinnesotaClocksandWatches Is it possible to guess whether this would have been a 30 hr vs. an 8 day movement, or is that not important for trying to match up? Thanks!
Nice job, chemical silvering, probably in line with the era too. Not sure if I like it though.
I understood that before putting the cream of tartar the first component had to be rinsed. I find that doing so gives a nicer glow.
I have one questions, what is the name of symbols between the roman number of the dial?
I believe they are a form of Fleur De Lis, but am not an expert.
Is there primary source research that these dials were originally silver?
I'm sure there are - horology is a pretty unbroken line of knowledge transfer through the last 400 years, but I don't have a source personally. I have never heard it disputed in the clock world.
There are a very few clocks that had actual solid silver dial components, but as clocks like these were already extremely expensive in 1725, silvering was a way to increase readability in low light as well as enhance the dial appearance for a relatively low cost.
I'm not sure what's behind your question, but if you want to research this further, many clock theory books that you can find today are reprints of works that are 150+ years old, and sources from the UK would be a good place to start.
@@MinnesotaClocksandWatches thank you!
really good thanks
Clock case from France
Thank you - that's very interesting. Any other detail you could provide?
@@MinnesotaClocksandWatches I recognize that case as one that would have originally been meant for a French clock called a Morbier or Comtoise. It’s odd that it now houses an English movement.
No gloves? Seriously?
With recently washed hands and multiple rinses during the process, there isn't much finger oil to create a future tarnish problem, and avoiding touching the final silvered stage after rinsing before putting the protective coating on is a good idea.
Certainly gloves could be used if you prefer, though I doubt the original silverer in 1750 wore nitrile gloves.