There is *never* enough Millard, m'lud! I'm really enjoying your videos and podcast, only having a recently discovered your channel. Thankyou for sharing your work with us.
"two stick method" - little gems like that I can really use. Simple things that make one think "why didn't I think of that?" I've been trying to read a bent over tape measure to achieve the same result! Too much Millard? I don't think so
Thanks Michael! Even with the Hultafors Talmeter tapes, I still find the 2-stick method easier to move around. Used it yesterday on a final measure-up - amazing how much a ceiling-to-floor can vary, even on a new build! 👍👍
Hi Peter. I think this is the way to go on sizeable projects. I like to watch them back to back rather than having to wait, perhaps keep the "how to's" to a single episode. Bye the way, I made up a small door using your loose tenon method and it worked a treat so many thanks for that tip.
Lookın forward to the next vıdeo tomorrow Peter.Keep them comıng.You can't do enough of them mate.10 mıns long or an hour, makes no dıfference, I'll stıll watch and follow.
Hi Peter. I like the multi-part video approach and your videos. I also like your solution to the LR32 setup. I found it too 'fiddly' and went a different route. Your solution appears to work very well for your workshop that appears to be slightly larger than a walk-in closet. Steve
Hi Steve, and thanks - you have a great channel! Yeah, the workshop is small - 'shop tour coming soon - but it's what I have; also, our closets are waaaay smaller over here 😀
Currently working with LR32 for first time for shelf pins on a small cabinet. Completed one side with the LR32 kit, end stops in place (16 marker up and out) then moved guide rail 180 degrees, then figure out which end stop needs to butted up to the end of cabinet, then clamping - its complicated. I like your solution of simply placing similar board alongside to drill back row of holes, so simple! Problem I now have is aligning rail for for the other cabinet side. I left the end stops in exactly same position but whatever I do the pin holes just don't appear to line up correctly with the already completed side. Your procedure seems to have solved this problem so thanks for the guidance. Wished I'd viewed your method beforehand. Meanwhile having started the Festool way, I will struggle on to try to see what I am doing wrong!
Tim Moran Thanks! I found I needed to be exceptionally accurate with my carcass sides - any discrepancy, however small, and the shelf pins won't align; worse, the discrepancy is duplicated because of swapping the rail around, so a 0.2mm difference becomes 0.4mm, easily enough to cause a shelf to wobble. My way of just referencing off the bottom edge is just a work-around that works well for me - if you can make the whole '32mm system' work for you then it's the way to go, it just doesn't fit how I work. Cheers, Peter
Too much millard.lol never. im learning so much from you from video. you would make a great teacher in person. Ive started a project inspired by you,with a handful of tools. thank you for your videos
Pete don't be concerned with the construct of your videos. For example the timelaps of the video or how many videos speak to the same project. It's the small things that make carpenters go wow. It's the small things that change how a carpenter buys tool or set up their work shop. I loved this video.
Thanks for all your content! I literally spend few hours a week browsing your videos and gathering "wisdom nuggets" here and there. I have been experimenting with MDF shelves edge painting techniques (priming, extra priming, filling, tape,..). I see that you are adding in this series a Hardwood edge in the front and a lip edge at the back. Quick question: why both options? and the extra lip at the back, what is its intent?
Hi peter, never too much, more, more, more, great tips, learning so much from you, always looking forward to your next video, i check you tube every night just in case i have missed something, the more videos the better for me, the only problem is i want to buy all those tools you have, its costing me a fortune!!!! ha ! ha!, dont tell the wife........!!!
Discovered the problem, my set-up was correct, I had simply forgotten that the board needs to be flipped 180 degrees once the the pin holes have been drilled, they will not line up with the already drilled holes until flipped i.e. when guide rail is in position prior to drilling - hope that all makes sense - you have to make the mistake first to discover the error!
Hi Peter great video as usual, completely off topic i know, but what are the work trousers you are wearing in this video, the cargo pockets and pouches look a good size. thanks Danny
Thanks Danny. They’re TuffStuff Extreme 700 workwear - there’s a link to them in the video description, along with much of the ‘stuff I use’ and ‘’used/featured in this video’ links too. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks for that Peter, looks like it only comes in 8mm shaft so no good for the 1/4 router I plan to use. I found the 5mm too big for the shelf pins anyway not sure if the cutter type would make any difference. Ive ordered a 3/16th cutter which is a few thou bigger than the pins I have, see if that works 🤞
Hi Peter, I love your videos - so informative. I am hoping to tackle my own built in soon using your methods. This may be best over email but two big qs I have are: 1. Do you go by the smallest measurement you get from your two stick method? 2. How much space do you leave yourself when designing the overall height, width and depth? Thanks in advance
Hi James, and thanks! Yes, I use the smallest measurement as the minimum clearance for the cabinet height, and usually it’s around 20mm for the sides and back, but a little tighter on the height unless there’s a reason not to. If you’ve done the two-stick method and found the minimum though, you should be able to take it to within 5 or 6mm it so. Anything tighter than that and you have to be very level sliding them home! HTH. Peter
Sorry if this is repeated, but what are those bench clamps you're using which fit through the bench? They look perfect for my assembly bench needs. Great video series btw! Cheers.
Old vid! They’re Festool guide rail clamps, though any rail clamp should do the job. Festool lever rail clamp - amzn.to/3qoUDLm. Makita screw rail clamp - amzn.to/3qrlJ4r
Thanks! I have a few nailers: cheapo 16ga air nailer in the workshop, Ryobi Air Strike 16ga cordless for out and about, Maestri mains electric 18ga brad nailer/stapler, and Spotnails mains electric 21ga headless pinner. I use the mains electric more than the others, by a long chalk. P
I wouldn’t say I preferred it exactly, but it’s a much more appropriate board for a painted finish, and ~97% of my work was painted (2% Birch Ply and 1% veneered) You need to remember as well that the MDF we get here in the UK and Europe is very different to what you may be able to find locally; a good quality MDF costs about the same as a cheap plywood here, just FYI. 👍👍
Peter, loving the channel and your videos. What thickness of MDF do you use for cabinets? I've seen you use 22mm MR for your Shaker style doors in another video. This looks like regular MDF rather than the Moisture Resistant (MR) stuff though. Is there a reason for this? Im attempting a bathroom cabinet for my home and any help would be most appreciated. Many thanks Dave
Dave Fellick Thanks! No it's MR MDF - I don't use anything else now. It's generally 18mm for carcasses, 22mm for door rails and stiles, 18mm for flush doors. Definitely go for MR MDF in a bathroom 👍 HTH. P
I despise MDF because it is so toxic. I would not advise using it in a small shop environment unless there is extremely good exhausting. The dust gets everywhere. If you must use it, only the best quality respirator mask will do.
+Robert All wood dust is toxic. I'd respectfully suggest that only the best MDF (Medite MR MDF) would do. Then the best dust extraction, at the best tools, then the best dust mask. And then the best air scrubber.
Can never be too much Millard! Love this series!
Haha, thank you! 👍👍
I have a 2 car garage, and never have enough room to work.
It's amazing what you accomplish in that little space.
So impressive how Peter does so much so efficiently in such a small, compact space.
Thanks! You play the cards you’re dealt! 🤷♂️👍👍
There is *never* enough Millard, m'lud!
I'm really enjoying your videos and podcast, only having a recently discovered your channel.
Thankyou for sharing your work with us.
Haha, thank you! 👍👍
"two stick method" - little gems like that I can really use. Simple things that make one think "why didn't I think of that?" I've been trying to read a bent over tape measure to achieve the same result!
Too much Millard? I don't think so
Thanks Michael! Even with the Hultafors Talmeter tapes, I still find the 2-stick method easier to move around. Used it yesterday on a final measure-up - amazing how much a ceiling-to-floor can vary, even on a new build! 👍👍
Hi Peter. I think this is the way to go on sizeable projects. I like to watch them back to back rather than having to wait, perhaps keep the "how to's" to a single episode. Bye the way, I made up a small door using your loose tenon method and it worked a treat so many thanks for that tip.
John Redden Thank you! Glad to door worked out OK 👌
Lookın forward to the next vıdeo tomorrow Peter.Keep them comıng.You can't do enough of them mate.10 mıns long or an hour, makes no dıfference, I'll stıll watch and follow.
Trevor Dawson Thanks! I think an hour-long episode may be a bit much though! 😄
Happily watch Millard daily👍
Hi Peter. I like the multi-part video approach and your videos. I also like your solution to the LR32 setup. I found it too 'fiddly' and went a different route. Your solution appears to work very well for your workshop that appears to be slightly larger than a walk-in closet. Steve
Hi Steve, and thanks - you have a great channel! Yeah, the workshop is small - 'shop tour coming soon - but it's what I have; also, our closets are waaaay smaller over here 😀
Currently working with LR32 for first time for shelf pins on a small cabinet. Completed one side with the LR32 kit, end stops in place (16 marker up and out) then moved guide rail 180 degrees, then figure out which end stop needs to butted up to the end of cabinet, then clamping - its complicated. I like your solution of simply placing similar board alongside to drill back row of holes, so simple!
Problem I now have is aligning rail for for the other cabinet side. I left the end stops in exactly same position but whatever I do the pin holes just don't appear to line up correctly with the already completed side. Your procedure seems to have solved this problem so thanks for the guidance. Wished I'd viewed your method beforehand.
Meanwhile having started the Festool way, I will struggle on to try to see what I am doing wrong!
Tim Moran Thanks! I found I needed to be exceptionally accurate with my carcass sides - any discrepancy, however small, and the shelf pins won't align; worse, the discrepancy is duplicated because of swapping the rail around, so a 0.2mm difference becomes 0.4mm, easily enough to cause a shelf to wobble. My way of just referencing off the bottom edge is just a work-around that works well for me - if you can make the whole '32mm system' work for you then it's the way to go, it just doesn't fit how I work. Cheers, Peter
Truth of the matter is I never tire of your videos I have learnt so much, well done keep up the good work!
Thanks! 👍👍
Too much millard.lol never.
im learning so much from you from video.
you would make a great teacher in person.
Ive started a project inspired by you,with a handful of tools.
thank you for your videos
Very Nice . I learn a lot of this video"s. So Thank you for taking the time to record all this. I can imaging it is a lot of work.
Harry Wever Thanks. Yes, it's taken a decent chunk of time, but worthwhile though, I think; let's see how everyone feels at the end of the week 😉
Greetings from Alberta Canada :-) great channel! I've enjoyed each of your videos. I think your daily videos are a great idea!
Doc11801 Thank you!
Pete don't be concerned with the construct of your videos. For example the timelaps of the video or how many videos speak to the same project. It's the small things that make carpenters go wow. It's the small things that change how a carpenter buys tool or set up their work shop. I loved this video.
Thanks Michael! 👍👍
Hints and tips never age unlike me lol
Thanks for all your content! I literally spend few hours a week browsing your videos and gathering "wisdom nuggets" here and there. I have been experimenting with MDF shelves edge painting techniques (priming, extra priming, filling, tape,..). I see that you are adding in this series a Hardwood edge in the front and a lip edge at the back. Quick question: why both options? and the extra lip at the back, what is its intent?
Hi peter, never too much, more, more, more, great tips, learning so much from you, always looking forward to your next video,
i check you tube every night just in case i have missed something, the more videos the better for me,
the only problem is i want to buy all those tools you have, its costing me a fortune!!!! ha ! ha!, dont tell the wife........!!!
Thanks! Haha, my lips are sealed - what happens on RUclips stays on RUclips, lol! 😂
"Holy Rail" Love it!
😂😇😂 Not an original I'm afraid, picked that up on FOG a while back 👍
never too much Peter Millard!
😂👍
Great Video, thanks for sharing!
Thanks!
Discovered the problem, my set-up was correct, I had simply forgotten that the board needs to be flipped 180 degrees once the the pin holes have been drilled, they will not line up with the already drilled holes until flipped i.e. when guide rail is in position prior to drilling - hope that all makes sense - you have to make the mistake first to discover the error!
Good to hear you sorted it out! Thanks. P
Hi Peter great video as usual, completely off topic i know, but what are the work trousers you are wearing in this video, the cargo pockets and pouches look a good size.
thanks Danny
Thanks Danny. They’re TuffStuff Extreme 700 workwear - there’s a link to them in the video description, along with much of the ‘stuff I use’ and ‘’used/featured in this video’ links too. 👍👍
Hi Peter, which router bit are you using for the shelf pin holes? I have 5mm shelf pins but the 5mm router cutter from Trend leaves them quite loose.
It's a 5mm bit from Festool for drilling shelf pin holes. Sorry can't find the reference offhand, but it should pop up on a search. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks for that Peter, looks like it only comes in 8mm shaft so no good for the 1/4 router I plan to use. I found the 5mm too big for the shelf pins anyway not sure if the cutter type would make any difference. Ive ordered a 3/16th cutter which is a few thou bigger than the pins I have, see if that works 🤞
Nice one, thanks for the extra effort looking forward to them. Think it will be a nice variation!
Thomas Kitchin Thanks! 👍
Hi Peter, I love your videos - so informative. I am hoping to tackle my own built in soon using your methods. This may be best over email but two big qs I have are:
1. Do you go by the smallest measurement you get from your two stick method?
2. How much space do you leave yourself when designing the overall height, width and depth?
Thanks in advance
Hi James, and thanks! Yes, I use the smallest measurement as the minimum clearance for the cabinet height, and usually it’s around 20mm for the sides and back, but a little tighter on the height unless there’s a reason not to. If you’ve done the two-stick method and found the minimum though, you should be able to take it to within 5 or 6mm it so. Anything tighter than that and you have to be very level sliding them home! HTH. Peter
Cannot get enough Millard
Sorry if this is repeated, but what are those bench clamps you're using which fit through the bench? They look perfect for my assembly bench needs. Great video series btw! Cheers.
Old vid! They’re Festool guide rail clamps, though any rail clamp should do the job. Festool lever rail clamp - amzn.to/3qoUDLm. Makita screw rail clamp - amzn.to/3qrlJ4r
@@10MinuteWorkshop many thanks! I'll be glued to your channel! So many good tips. Thanks.
Hi Pete what type of glue do you use on your projects? Love your videos
Hi Annie. Polyten PVA from Polyvine for preference. 👍👍
enjoyed👍. nice solution for extra bench space. what finish nailer do you use?
Thanks! I have a few nailers: cheapo 16ga air nailer in the workshop, Ryobi Air Strike 16ga cordless for out and about, Maestri mains electric 18ga brad nailer/stapler, and Spotnails mains electric 21ga headless pinner. I use the mains electric more than the others, by a long chalk. P
Peter wh do you prefer mdf over plywood? Or is this a European thing?
I wouldn’t say I preferred it exactly, but it’s a much more appropriate board for a painted finish, and ~97% of my work was painted (2% Birch Ply and 1% veneered) You need to remember as well that the MDF we get here in the UK and Europe is very different to what you may be able to find locally; a good quality MDF costs about the same as a cheap plywood here, just FYI. 👍👍
great channel you've got going on here Peter!
learning too from your approaches...
i subscribed.
greetings from Amsterdam! ;)
Oscar Winkelaar Thank you! I had a few days in Amsterdam a month ago - first time in about 35 years, great city! 👍
Szuper
Márti Kurdi Thanks!
Dang. I don't have that fancy tool for making the holes. :/
I make a *lot* of holes 😂 You can get much cheaper drilling jigs, I used one for years, worked great! 👍
Peter, loving the channel and your videos. What thickness of MDF do you use for cabinets? I've seen you use 22mm MR for your Shaker style doors in another video. This looks like regular MDF rather than the Moisture Resistant (MR) stuff though. Is there a reason for this? Im attempting a bathroom cabinet for my home and any help would be most appreciated. Many thanks Dave
Dave Fellick Thanks! No it's MR MDF - I don't use anything else now. It's generally 18mm for carcasses, 22mm for door rails and stiles, 18mm for flush doors. Definitely go for MR MDF in a bathroom 👍 HTH. P
Too much millard.. I don't think so
😂👍
I despise MDF because it is so toxic. I would not advise using it in a small shop environment unless there is extremely good exhausting. The dust gets everywhere. If you must use it, only the best quality respirator mask will do.
+Robert All wood dust is toxic. I'd respectfully suggest that only the best MDF (Medite MR MDF) would do. Then the best dust extraction, at the best tools, then the best dust mask. And then the best air scrubber.