Hi Mac, I made the same assessment back in 1983 when I finally decided on the FE2. It's been faultless, is still in use, and thanks to the metering I don't believe I've never had an underexposed or overexposed shot. The battery is not a problem, just carry a couple of spare LR44s rather than an FM2.
Thank you for this informative and nicely shot and edited vid. Your camareman/lady desrves a thank you, too! Having been a (mostly) Pentax guy for crazy 4 decades I've ordered an FE2 for Xmas. My first Nikon ever. Then watched your video to learn a bit of the Nikon world. Well, the good thing is there is no bad decision. What I can add is that my Pentax MG has been the companion of my life "who" never ever let me down with its aperture priority mode. I carry a spare battery though I've never had to replace it during a shoot. To prevent disasters I replace the battery once per year with or without reason. And, ... I could easily fell in love with a fully mechanical FM 2 camera much appreciating the engineering work behind.
I shot weddings with the Nikon FE and the Nikkormatt EL but I never made it to the FE2. I jumped up to the FA, which is basically an FE2 with a matrix meter. Much much better in my view but anyways I anyways enjoyed your review and your photo as well. I also like the fact that my MD-12 motor drive worked on all these cameras and it was handy for taking double exposures with the FE. after shooting film for many years, though I eventually went digital as it has instant recall, and therefore, I can learn from exposure, metering and depth of focus immediately instead of waiting for my prints to come back and being disappointed. I still kept all my Nikon glass though so they work well on the new cameras with adapters. A good reason to stick with Nikon. Regards, Gerry.
I am very pleased with my FE2 and and the Aperture priority option for all the reasons you described. I also have a Pentax K1000 as my backup. Both have match stick metering and I couldnt imagine using another metering system. It was a happy incident that I ended up with my FE2 vs an FM and I'm glad things worked out the way it did. I like the idea of fully mechanical but hey I have the Pentax for that so I'm not missing out (except for that nice 1/4000 shutter speed).
Welcome back! Missed your videos. I just noticed you have 3 other recent videos that didn't pop into my feed. Will watch those as well. Yep, I think I know where you're going with your best edc. Looking forward to your next video, and last 3 videos too.
Hey! Thanks so much for watching! Really excited to be back shooting film again. My job is so serious it’s truly medicinal to get out and scratch my creative itch with film.
I love my FE2. I have a ton of film bodies but the ones I seem to go back to are the Leica M5, Nikon F2, and Nikon FE2. I have the F100 if I basically don't want to think much when shoot. The needle meter is the main reason the M5 and FE2 are my top two film bodies. The FM3A, which I think you hinted to at the end, is VERY much a higher priced body than either the FE2 or FM2. It will meet all your criteria, however. Great video.
I do miss my M5! My f100 is one of my faves especially with a 1/8000 shutter, but it’s starting to leave a black line on frames at high shutter speeds so i’m think it’s CLA time. The FM3A definitely is pricey, but hits all the sweet spots for an alloy SLR.
I really enjoyed the video. I still have my FE from 1980 and pulled it out after watching and thought my top shutter speed was 2000, but it's actually 1/1000. And with a 50mm 1.8, I'm a far cry from what you're using/require. I still love the FE and now have the Zf, which is so much like the FE. Looking forward to your future videos
@@MacShootsFilm I said the same until I discovered Nikon FA, (almost got the FE3 name). It's basically the FE2 with matrix metering. In my view it's the perfect manual camera. Also with 1/4000s :)
I carry an FE2 and my point and shoot camera is an F100. I also have a voltmeter and check my batteries before I go out. (just like you do with digital) You are right about the match needle- the information goes straight to your brain without needing interpretation. You might also consider a Kodak Retina 2C -an old German camera company with a Schneider lens Kodak bought just after WWll. It's a folder and a rangefinder and fully mechanical (the 3 series had a meter but ~meh).
Mac you nailed it when you compared your M6 vs the Nikons. I have an M3, and tons of Nikons, Your reasoning is very sound. I shoot my M3 and FM3A most. Just wished the FM3A had the F3 advance. I looked at both of yours too but went with the FM3A because of age and best of both worlds. As an aside I also shoot a ton of Kodak Retina IIIC - small, beautiful 50mm rf2 and wonderful rendering.
Agree about the needle light meter indicator. It's the same on my Pentax K1000 and Ive not seen a better exposure indicator than this yet. Its so simple meaning so easy to read. Much easier and more intuitive to read than the exp. indicator on my Nikon FM3a
I have the FE2 that I bought from Marketplace knowingly broken (but very cheap) have had it CLA’d and enjoying it. I also have the FA, which is an FE2 with matrix metering and program mode. Just need an FM2 to complete the set 😂
This was so helpful, thanks again for another great upload! I currently shoot, sorry, the Canon A-1, but I will soon get a Nikon SLR, FM2 and FE2 have been the options, not an easy choice, but this review of yours made me think FE2 might be the better option for me.
I bought an FM2 because I wanted something completely different than digital. But I also now own the most advanced Nikon SLR, the F6. It’s the perfect complement to the FM2.
I have and use both. I shoot a lot around sunrise/sunset/blue hour and I find the match needle meter on the FE2 completely unreadable in lower light. The LED meter on the FM2 is always readable. I have no current plans to sell either, but I would sell the FE2 if I did. As you said, being able to shoot at all shutter speeds from bulb to 1/4000 with no battery is a great plus for the FM2. If you want to do that in a camera that can be bought in very good condition with a lens for under $500 (I got mine with 28mm f2.8 for $270), the FM2 is hard to beat.
That's a great perspective! Hadn't considered that. I shot this right at sunrise and was good to go on visibility, but def can see situations where it would be unreadable
Nikon FM was my first SLR camera, I bought brand new in 1982 and still have today. The FE came out after I bought mine and I think if I had bought it, I would have stayed with this hobby longer. I still have my FM and only used it for a year. It's in pristine condition.
FM2 is built like tank. Due to a faulty wrist strap, mine fell on a concrete floor. I was so freaked out. But apart from a couple of scuffs, it works without any issues.
Having tried both, plus the FG, FA and F3 - I think the F3 is the most reliable and durable, but the FA was by far the most enjoyable to use. Matrix metering, Aperture Priority, smaller and lighter than the F3 - it just checks boxes. The FE series is criminally underrated though, and doesn't get the attention it deserves. I think that's why I gravitate towards 80's Nikon SLR's.The entire line is far more reliable than Canon's offerings (AE-1 is an electronic nightmare and if you find one with an meter that is dead-on it's a rarity) and there are options for any preference. Heck even the EM exists for people who literally just want to focus and take a picture without understanding the in-depth settings. Video is great btw, it's enjoyable to see someone use the cameras and give their opinions without saying that one camera is better than the other. You strictly stick to the preferences you have and why you like them, leaving the viewer to find their own conclusions.
Hey hey! The F3 is an absolute joy to shoot! It has my favorite meter out of all the SLRs Nikon made (heavy center weighted 80/20). As for letting the viewer decide, Camera choice is so personal I could never pretend to be the guy who “knows best.” 😂 people just need to experiment and the right one will make itself apparent. Thanks for watching!
The FE was my first proper camera way back and you’re right about the match needle meter which was great to use, but I think the F3 is the one I have used most. It comes down to the feel of it in my large hands I think, and the battery lasts a long time. As a backup in your bag you could carry the motor drive for the FE2 - I believe it powers the camera when attached so useful in the emergency situation you described, though carrying spare batteries is obviously a lighter option!
I use my Nikon F2 DE1-prism 100% mechanical no battery, in combination with my Nikon FA with aperture-, shutter, and program mode I bought new in 1987.
I have been through a LOT of camera, Nikons, Contax, Olympus, Leica R and M, but finally I have settled on just one - the Nikon FM3a. It is im my view the best of both worlds when it comes to Nicon FM or FE .......... it is everything the FM2 and FE2 has, and then some. And the glass in phenomenal and readily available for a reasonable price !! This will be my final film 35mm camera (and now I have problably just jinxed it ! 😀), if I can hold the GAS at bay !
I agree 100%. My fm3a just got back from a CLA and it will probably be it. Match stick needle meter and 1/4000 shutter. Also love where the exposure lock button is. It was “only” $450 when I bought it 4 years ago, now a clean copy is $700+ !!!
Yeah, better not leave that baby behind !! 🙂 But with a CLA you will probably have camera for the rest of your life ! Great to see you back btw - I follow your videos and your IG account ! 👍
I’ve both the FE2 & FM2 and agree with the meter experience comments enjoying the FE2 over the FM2. I did just find a beat up FM3a for a low price so I can review the best of both worlds that this model boasts. That eBay delivery is inbound tomorrow so time with it will tell. If it fails me, I’ll revert to the FE2 as the go to. Batteries (and spares) are a way of life in my digital flow…making sure my bag has spare FXX batteries isn’t a stretch
In the 80s, I was using a Rollei 35 SLR with Zeiss lenses, the shutter eventually wore out (1990). I decided to switch to a Nikon FM2 with some expensive lenses. I tried, but the kit never worked for me. The images weren't as sharp, exposures never seemed on. Sold the lot and got a Yashica T4 Super, still have it, not to mention my digital stuff though.
Gonna say right now, for me it would be the FE2. I shoot auto exposure a lot and point the camera around till I get the exposure I want, then lock it and recompose. And I prefer shooting the FEs in manual as well because the match-needle system shows me how far off I am from recommended exposure. Same reason I don’t like the meters in Leicas, the LEDs.
I observed, you have a lot of Nikon glass, but in the video you use Voigtlaender lenses, are the Nikon ones inferior in quality? Or is it because of the special focal lengths? Would you advice a Nikon-shooter to invest in Voigtlaender lenses if he/ she wants to get the maximum quality? Thx, Stephan
Voigtlander glass, in my experience, is much better than Nikon glass. Voigtlander glass is sharper, better contrast, and handles chromatic aberration much better. 40mm: amzn.to/481r4qb 58mm: amzn.to/3ZVclLx 28mm : amzn.to/3Ne1dlc
@@MacShootsFilm Oh you! Thats not the answer, I wanted to hear, though I guess, I saw it coming😉 Thank you for your pretty quick reply, I will see, if I can find some used V. lenses… Best regards, Stephan
@@MacShootsFilm I see your point. I love the FE2, rather use it because the F2A is bulky and heavy. But I love the both. Bought them brand new in Japan. Still in beautiful condition. Both black. Have motor for the FE2. The F2 motor decided to self-destruct, but don't need one. That motor and 10 AA batteries were too heavy.
Funny part to these kinds of comparisons is just subjective narrative that can't be shown in photos. The handling aspects of the FM avd FE models externally are so similar. The visual intetface in the finder window is very different. The FE2 also adds Nikon's excellent TTL-OTFP flash metering. I have an FM i bought in 1979 and Nikkormat FTn or F2S for my manual needs. FE, FE2, and a rather tired Nikkormat EL2 along with modern plastic autofocus cameras like the N90S and N2020. The N2020 or the non-AF N2000 are remarkable cameras with most of the benefits of an FE2 plus matrix metering, power film advance, TTL flash, and uses common AAA or AA batteries depending on the battery cover. A few of the colleges are starting to reintroduce film photography classes and fir my daughter ingave her a FE2 and a couple of period correct Vivitar Series1 lenses an a classic 50/1.4 Ai. Its funny how her instructor got excited to see a kit like that in a student's hands. On the FM, there are 4 variants. Early FM had a motor drive clutch control that was often dismissed as a shutter button lock. Later FM has a simpler design that was probably better for forgetful humans, but was more prone mechanical problems with the automatic disconnector. The FM2 had the 1/4000 shutter speed but flash sync at 1/200. The last of the line was the FM2n. That one may or may not have the "n" on the front, but didn't have a separate X setting on the shutter dial, its sync was at 1/250 like the FE2. There were some internal variations with the shutter curtains. The honeycomb pattern titanium shutter was lauded as the greatest thing ever, but the later non patterned aluminum shutter that had the microcrystalline hard annodized blades was more reliable and was carried into later cameras in the autofocus era.
I have both the FE2 and FM2 and the meter makes the difference for me. The match needle of the FE2 is simply unusable in low light. Try shooting it in dim light. The meter becomes invisible. For that very reason the FM2 is the one in my bag and the FE2 stays on the shelf.
First of all, I should have kept my Nikon stuff 😖 I've had many Nikons, and the FM2 will always be my Nikon No1. In regards to batteries for the FE2, there's the old rule - BACKUP EVERYTHING! Several times over, just to be safe. Especially if you are undertaking a trip. My Olympus OM1n is still going strong. Unlike the (electronic) OM40 that crapped out not long ago. Hopefully I'll be able to fix it, but aside of that, I'm looking towards the OM2n, which does the same job as FE / FE2. I'm a little bit hesitant towards the OM4 / OM4Ti, course they are hard to repair, once the s*** hits the fan. Just like the OM40. We should reconsider the term "every day carry". Course that's NOT what you carry on a trip. My every day carry these days is an Olympus 35RC. There's shutter time priority if you want it, but camera can work mechanically without batteries if need be. And is pocketable 😊 Olympus 35 RD, SP, LC as well as Cannonet QL17 & QL19 will do the same job. And last but not least, in the God's name, why would you shoot ISO 400 film in a broad daylight if you wanna shoot at f/1,4??? On the other hand, maybe I'm just an grumpy old grandpa who hates film grain 🤣
I may be wrong but these two cameras are basically fraternal twins. FE2 has auto features and the nearly identical FM2 is manual. If using the same lenses you are going to get the same results. 16 minute video turned into a 20 second explanation.
@@MacShootsFilm People interested in photography will choose the FM2. Snapshooters and lazy people will opt for the auto features. REAL serious people will choose a digital camera.
I recently used the phrase 'from my cold dead hands' to my wife, when she suggested I should sell the most perfect film camera ever made, just because its second hand values are so high. I now live in fear every time my wife reaches for a kitchen knife.....but its a small price to pay for a camera I bought new in 2002 and still use today.
The FM2 is the one that will be most likely to still be able to take photos in another 20+ yrs, and still functions (no light-meter) even without battery. The FE2 is the nicest to actually use (I also prefer shooting Aperture priority on most of my cameras) but needs a battery and a working light meter to function properly (the electronics are getting old, not sure how many years they will still be functional). The FM3, maybe best of both worlds, but is overpriced/expensive so it will cost you. Though, probably still "cheap" if comparing to Leica gear. - That about sums it up. I own both FM2n and FE2, not going to pay the FM3 prices as I already have more cameras than I need. Maybe if I win the lottery or something, LOL.
Get FM or FE, the camera before Nikon cuts corners significantly. A lot of parts internally are externally replaced by plastic. You can tell the weight of the 2s are lighter than the original ones. I would go for the mechanical ⚙️ body. Electronically shutter bodies will fail overtime since the components on their circuit board have a limited lifespan. 😂
Hi Mac, I made the same assessment back in 1983 when I finally decided on the FE2. It's been faultless, is still in use, and thanks to the metering I don't believe I've never had an underexposed or overexposed shot. The battery is not a problem, just carry a couple of spare LR44s rather than an FM2.
Thank you for this informative and nicely shot and edited vid. Your camareman/lady desrves a thank you, too!
Having been a (mostly) Pentax guy for crazy 4 decades I've ordered an FE2 for Xmas. My first Nikon ever. Then watched your video to learn a bit of the Nikon world. Well, the good thing is there is no bad decision. What I can add is that my Pentax MG has been the companion of my life "who" never ever let me down with its aperture priority mode. I carry a spare battery though I've never had to replace it during a shoot. To prevent disasters I replace the battery once per year with or without reason. And, ... I could easily fell in love with a fully mechanical FM 2 camera much appreciating the engineering work behind.
I shot weddings with the Nikon FE and the Nikkormatt EL but I never made it to the FE2. I jumped up to the FA, which is basically an FE2 with a matrix meter. Much much better in my view but anyways I anyways enjoyed your review and your photo as well. I also like the fact that my MD-12 motor drive worked on all these cameras and it was handy for taking double exposures with the FE. after shooting film for many years, though I eventually went digital as it has instant recall, and therefore, I can learn from exposure, metering and depth of focus immediately instead of waiting for my prints to come back and being disappointed. I still kept all my Nikon glass though so they work well on the new cameras with adapters. A good reason to stick with Nikon. Regards, Gerry.
I am very pleased with my FE2 and and the Aperture priority option for all the reasons you described. I also have a Pentax K1000 as my backup. Both have match stick metering and I couldnt imagine using another metering system. It was a happy incident that I ended up with my FE2 vs an FM and I'm glad things worked out the way it did. I like the idea of fully mechanical but hey I have the Pentax for that so I'm not missing out (except for that nice 1/4000 shutter speed).
Welcome back! Missed your videos. I just noticed you have 3 other recent videos that didn't pop into my feed. Will watch those as well. Yep, I think I know where you're going with your best edc. Looking forward to your next video, and last 3 videos too.
Hey! Thanks so much for watching! Really excited to be back shooting film again. My job is so serious it’s truly medicinal to get out and scratch my creative itch with film.
Dude, nice work with this one. Loved the score and overall calming vibe of this video.
Thanks a ton! My wife does all the videography and music. She'll be pumped to hear her hard work is paying off.
Thanks for watching!
I love my FE2. I have a ton of film bodies but the ones I seem to go back to are the Leica M5, Nikon F2, and Nikon FE2. I have the F100 if I basically don't want to think much when shoot. The needle meter is the main reason the M5 and FE2 are my top two film bodies.
The FM3A, which I think you hinted to at the end, is VERY much a higher priced body than either the FE2 or FM2. It will meet all your criteria, however.
Great video.
I do miss my M5! My f100 is one of my faves especially with a 1/8000 shutter, but it’s starting to leave a black line on frames at high shutter speeds so i’m think it’s CLA time.
The FM3A definitely is pricey, but hits all the sweet spots for an alloy SLR.
Thank you for the insightful video! Looking forward for your upcoming FM3A one 😉👍
You guessed it 😂
I really enjoyed the video. I still have my FE from 1980 and pulled it out after watching and thought my top shutter speed was 2000, but it's actually 1/1000. And with a 50mm 1.8, I'm a far cry from what you're using/require. I still love the FE and now have the Zf, which is so much like the FE. Looking forward to your future videos
Thanks for watching, Dennis!
Great Comparison between Nikon FE2 Vs FM2 both are my favorite camera ...Thanks for a nice video 👏
Thanks for watching!
Looks like the FM3A combines the best of both cameras. Cheers Mac, good to see you back.
I think the FM3A will be it! Thanks so much for watching!
@@MacShootsFilm I said the same until I discovered Nikon FA, (almost got the FE3 name). It's basically the FE2 with matrix metering. In my view it's the perfect manual camera. Also with 1/4000s :)
I carry an FE2 and my point and shoot camera is an F100. I also have a voltmeter and check my batteries before I go out. (just like you do with digital) You are right about the match needle- the information goes straight to your brain without needing interpretation. You might also consider a Kodak Retina 2C -an old German camera company with a Schneider lens Kodak bought just after WWll. It's a folder and a rangefinder and fully mechanical (the 3 series had a meter but ~meh).
I’m a f100 fanboy! I’ll definitely check out the Retina 2C.
Thanks for watching!
Great to see you back! Thanks for a great new vid
Thanks for watching!
Mac you nailed it when you compared your M6 vs the Nikons. I have an M3, and tons of Nikons, Your reasoning is very sound. I shoot my M3 and FM3A most. Just wished the FM3A had the F3 advance. I looked at both of yours too but went with the FM3A because of age and best of both worlds. As an aside I also shoot a ton of Kodak Retina IIIC - small, beautiful 50mm rf2 and wonderful rendering.
I'm def leaning FM3A! Thanks for watching!
Agree about the needle light meter indicator. It's the same on my Pentax K1000 and Ive not seen a better exposure indicator than this yet. Its so simple meaning so easy to read. Much easier and more intuitive to read than the exp. indicator on my Nikon FM3a
I have the FE2 that I bought from Marketplace knowingly broken (but very cheap) have had it CLA’d and enjoying it. I also have the FA, which is an FE2 with matrix metering and program mode. Just need an FM2 to complete the set 😂
This was so helpful, thanks again for another great upload! I currently shoot, sorry, the Canon A-1, but I will soon get a Nikon SLR, FM2 and FE2 have been the options, not an easy choice, but this review of yours made me think FE2 might be the better option for me.
Hard to go wrong with either, but the FE2 is, in my opinion, a more enjoyable camera to shoot. Thanks so much for watching!
@@MacShootsFilm Looking forward to your next upload!
I bought an FM2 because I wanted something completely different than digital. But I also now own the most advanced Nikon SLR, the F6. It’s the perfect complement to the FM2.
The F6 is one i've never owned and I think i've owned at least 99% of all Nikon SLRs ever made. I really want to shoot it once!
I have and use both. I shoot a lot around sunrise/sunset/blue hour and I find the match needle meter on the FE2 completely unreadable in lower light. The LED meter on the FM2 is always readable. I have no current plans to sell either, but I would sell the FE2 if I did. As you said, being able to shoot at all shutter speeds from bulb to 1/4000 with no battery is a great plus for the FM2. If you want to do that in a camera that can be bought in very good condition with a lens for under $500 (I got mine with 28mm f2.8 for $270), the FM2 is hard to beat.
That's a great perspective! Hadn't considered that. I shot this right at sunrise and was good to go on visibility, but def can see situations where it would be unreadable
i agree , normally when i shoot my primary camera is the F3hp and the back up ( or i mount a wider angle lens) is the FM2n .
Exactly what I do have since the late '80s. F3HP & FM2n is just a perfect team😊
The price on Ebay for the FE2 has been steadily going up for the last 2-3 years.. And I'm starting to see why its so sought after.
i have always preferd match needle over lights, thanks for video.
Me too! Thanks for watching!
I love those shots. what film were you shooting on?
Kodak Gold 200
@@MacShootsFilm can't go wrong with gold.. plus, it stands out from the digital look of portra
I m an FE2 guy because, as you said, the meter is much more precise and the aperture mode is really handy.
It's insane the Fe2 is still under $250 for a clean copy. It's just an amazing camera!
Nikon FM was my first SLR camera, I bought brand new in 1982 and still have today. The FE came out after I bought mine and I think if I had bought it, I would have stayed with this hobby longer. I still have my FM and only used it for a year. It's in pristine condition.
The FM is a fun camera!
FM2 is built like tank. Due to a faulty wrist strap, mine fell on a concrete floor. I was so freaked out.
But apart from a couple of scuffs, it works without any issues.
Having tried both, plus the FG, FA and F3 - I think the F3 is the most reliable and durable, but the FA was by far the most enjoyable to use. Matrix metering, Aperture Priority, smaller and lighter than the F3 - it just checks boxes. The FE series is criminally underrated though, and doesn't get the attention it deserves.
I think that's why I gravitate towards 80's Nikon SLR's.The entire line is far more reliable than Canon's offerings (AE-1 is an electronic nightmare and if you find one with an meter that is dead-on it's a rarity) and there are options for any preference. Heck even the EM exists for people who literally just want to focus and take a picture without understanding the in-depth settings.
Video is great btw, it's enjoyable to see someone use the cameras and give their opinions without saying that one camera is better than the other. You strictly stick to the preferences you have and why you like them, leaving the viewer to find their own conclusions.
Hey hey!
The F3 is an absolute joy to shoot! It has my favorite meter out of all the SLRs Nikon made (heavy center weighted 80/20).
As for letting the viewer decide, Camera choice is so personal I could never pretend to be the guy who “knows best.” 😂 people just need to experiment and the right one will make itself apparent.
Thanks for watching!
The FE was my first proper camera way back and you’re right about the match needle meter which was great to use, but I think the F3 is the one I have used most. It comes down to the feel of it in my large hands I think, and the battery lasts a long time. As a backup in your bag you could carry the motor drive for the FE2 - I believe it powers the camera when attached so useful in the emergency situation you described, though carrying spare batteries is obviously a lighter option!
I use my Nikon F2 DE1-prism 100% mechanical no battery, in combination with my Nikon FA with aperture-, shutter, and program mode I bought new in 1987.
I love my fm2!!! So much fun
FM2 gang!🤘
Nice to see a new video!
More to come! Thanks for watching!
I have been through a LOT of camera, Nikons, Contax, Olympus, Leica R and M, but finally I have settled on just one - the Nikon FM3a. It is im my view the best of both worlds when it comes to Nicon FM or FE .......... it is everything the FM2 and FE2 has, and then some. And the glass in phenomenal and readily available for a reasonable price !! This will be my final film 35mm camera (and now I have problably just jinxed it ! 😀), if I can hold the GAS at bay !
I agree 100%. My fm3a just got back from a CLA and it will probably be it. Match stick needle meter and 1/4000 shutter. Also love where the exposure lock button is. It was “only” $450 when I bought it 4 years ago, now a clean copy is $700+ !!!
Yeah, better not leave that baby behind !! 🙂 But with a CLA you will probably have camera for the rest of your life !
Great to see you back btw - I follow your videos and your IG account ! 👍
I’ve both the FE2 & FM2 and agree with the meter experience comments enjoying the FE2 over the FM2. I did just find a beat up FM3a for a low price so I can review the best of both worlds that this model boasts. That eBay delivery is inbound tomorrow so time with it will tell. If it fails me, I’ll revert to the FE2 as the go to. Batteries (and spares) are a way of life in my digital flow…making sure my bag has spare FXX batteries isn’t a stretch
I’m thinking the fm3a I just got back from the repair shop will be “the one” as well. Best of both worlds.
Thanks for watching!
@@MacShootsFilm - Yep, that's where I thought you were headed. Just didn't want to say it before you. ;-)
In the 80s, I was using a Rollei 35 SLR with Zeiss lenses, the shutter eventually wore out (1990). I decided to switch to a Nikon FM2 with some expensive lenses. I tried, but the kit never worked for me. The images weren't as sharp, exposures never seemed on. Sold the lot and got a Yashica T4 Super, still have it, not to mention my digital stuff though.
Gonna say right now, for me it would be the FE2. I shoot auto exposure a lot and point the camera around till I get the exposure I want, then lock it and recompose.
And I prefer shooting the FEs in manual as well because the match-needle system shows me how far off I am from recommended exposure. Same reason I don’t like the meters in Leicas, the LEDs.
Those fm3a’s are expensive now, I should have kept mine 😬
I observed, you have a lot of Nikon glass, but in the video you use Voigtlaender lenses, are the Nikon ones inferior in quality? Or is it because of the special focal lengths? Would you advice a Nikon-shooter to invest in Voigtlaender lenses if he/ she wants to get the maximum quality? Thx, Stephan
Voigtlander glass, in my experience, is much better than Nikon glass. Voigtlander glass is sharper, better contrast, and handles chromatic aberration much better.
40mm: amzn.to/481r4qb
58mm: amzn.to/3ZVclLx
28mm : amzn.to/3Ne1dlc
@@MacShootsFilm Oh you! Thats not the answer, I wanted to hear, though I guess, I saw it coming😉
Thank you for your pretty quick reply, I will see, if I can find some used V. lenses…
Best regards,
Stephan
Hot take the FE is your best backup for either
I'd go for the feD2
I love my FE2. I had the FM2n for a while but never bonded with the meter readout. It felt way too binary to me. I sold the FM2n.
I like to say that the FM3A is an FE2 that doesn’t need a battery. For 3x the cost for an FM3A, I’ll stick with the FE2.
Batteries are cheap.
If all else fails, I carry my F2A. FE2 never failed. So, which one? I'll take both.
Agree with this plan!
@@MacShootsFilm I see your point. I love the FE2, rather use it because the F2A is bulky and heavy. But I love the both. Bought them brand new in Japan. Still in beautiful condition. Both black. Have motor for the FE2. The F2 motor decided to self-destruct, but don't need one. That motor and 10 AA batteries were too heavy.
Funny part to these kinds of comparisons is just subjective narrative that can't be shown in photos. The handling aspects of the FM avd FE models externally are so similar. The visual intetface in the finder window is very different. The FE2 also adds Nikon's excellent TTL-OTFP flash metering. I have an FM i bought in 1979 and Nikkormat FTn or F2S for my manual needs. FE, FE2, and a rather tired Nikkormat EL2 along with modern plastic autofocus cameras like the N90S and N2020. The N2020 or the non-AF N2000 are remarkable cameras with most of the benefits of an FE2 plus matrix metering, power film advance, TTL flash, and uses common AAA or AA batteries depending on the battery cover.
A few of the colleges are starting to reintroduce film photography classes and fir my daughter ingave her a FE2 and a couple of period correct Vivitar Series1 lenses an a classic 50/1.4 Ai. Its funny how her instructor got excited to see a kit like that in a student's hands.
On the FM, there are 4 variants. Early FM had a motor drive clutch control that was often dismissed as a shutter button lock. Later FM has a simpler design that was probably better for forgetful humans, but was more prone mechanical problems with the automatic disconnector. The FM2 had the 1/4000 shutter speed but flash sync at 1/200. The last of the line was the FM2n. That one may or may not have the "n" on the front, but didn't have a separate X setting on the shutter dial, its sync was at 1/250 like the FE2. There were some internal variations with the shutter curtains. The honeycomb pattern titanium shutter was lauded as the greatest thing ever, but the later non patterned aluminum shutter that had the microcrystalline hard annodized blades was more reliable and was carried into later cameras in the autofocus era.
It's fascinating to see how the subtle differences in the camera's design have such a large impact on the user experience.
I go for the FE2 and an extra battery instead of a FM2N and an iPhone
I have both the FE2 and FM2 and the meter makes the difference for me. The match needle of the FE2 is simply unusable in low light. Try shooting it in dim light. The meter becomes invisible. For that very reason the FM2 is the one in my bag and the FE2 stays on the shelf.
I shot this at sunrise but can definitely see your point, especially with the match needle!
First of all, I should have kept my Nikon stuff 😖 I've had many Nikons, and the FM2 will always be my Nikon No1.
In regards to batteries for the FE2, there's the old rule - BACKUP EVERYTHING! Several times over, just to be safe. Especially if you are undertaking a trip.
My Olympus OM1n is still going strong. Unlike the (electronic) OM40 that crapped out not long ago. Hopefully I'll be able to fix it, but aside of that, I'm looking towards the OM2n, which does the same job as FE / FE2. I'm a little bit hesitant towards the OM4 / OM4Ti, course they are hard to repair, once the s*** hits the fan. Just like the OM40.
We should reconsider the term "every day carry". Course that's NOT what you carry on a trip. My every day carry these days is an Olympus 35RC. There's shutter time priority if you want it, but camera can work mechanically without batteries if need be. And is pocketable 😊 Olympus 35 RD, SP, LC as well as Cannonet QL17 & QL19 will do the same job.
And last but not least, in the God's name, why would you shoot ISO 400 film in a broad daylight if you wanna shoot at f/1,4???
On the other hand, maybe I'm just an grumpy old grandpa who hates film grain 🤣
My FE2 is the one camera I haven’t sold
It’s definitely a keeper! Thanks for watching!
I may be wrong but these two cameras are basically fraternal twins. FE2 has auto features and the nearly identical FM2 is manual. If using the same lenses you are going to get the same results. 16 minute video turned into a 20 second explanation.
But part of the fun of photography is ruminating on gear nuances
@@MacShootsFilm People interested in photography will choose the FM2. Snapshooters and lazy people will opt for the auto features. REAL serious people will choose a digital camera.
I recently used the phrase 'from my cold dead hands' to my wife, when she suggested I should sell the most perfect film camera ever made, just because its second hand values are so high. I now live in fear every time my wife reaches for a kitchen knife.....but its a small price to pay for a camera I bought new in 2002 and still use today.
hahahahahaha! I like your style!
The FM2 is the one that will be most likely to still be able to take photos in another 20+ yrs, and still functions (no light-meter) even without battery. The FE2 is the nicest to actually use (I also prefer shooting Aperture priority on most of my cameras) but needs a battery and a working light meter to function properly (the electronics are getting old, not sure how many years they will still be functional). The FM3, maybe best of both worlds, but is overpriced/expensive so it will cost you. Though, probably still "cheap" if comparing to Leica gear. - That about sums it up. I own both FM2n and FE2, not going to pay the FM3 prices as I already have more cameras than I need. Maybe if I win the lottery or something, LOL.
I agree with your assessment - the FM2 is a tough workhorse!
Nikon FE
Try Olympus OM4. Canon EOS 1N is even better!
i recently got an OM-4T ill load some film in it soon to test the exposure metering modes
🎉
Get FM or FE, the camera before Nikon cuts corners significantly. A lot of parts internally are externally replaced by plastic. You can tell the weight of the 2s are lighter than the original ones.
I would go for the mechanical ⚙️ body. Electronically shutter bodies will fail overtime since the components on their circuit board have a limited lifespan. 😂