You should update your description to include something like "also e30 BMW 3 series pin and socket connectors for housing numbers c404 and c405" because they are known to fail and I spent more time than I would have liked every step of the way. This video helped me figure out what I needed to do before I wasted the small bit of wire I'm working with. It sure beats the handycam RUclips how tos from when I last was fixing cars 20 years ago. This video was extremely helpful. Edit: I can't punctuation.
A helpful video. I'd like to add a couple comments that may be useful to others. In the video, you stress the importance of placing the tool properly during the initial wire crimp so as not to bend the adjacent section of the terminal. To do that, the tool has to fit between the two tabs. The distance available on the terminal is .150". The body on my IWiss crimping tool is .160", so it just isn't possible. I spent a lot of time trying, and your video helped me pinpoint the problem. The insulation on my 18AWG wire seemed larger diameter than the terminal was designed for, and I was getting a poor crimp on the insulation anyway, so I ended up snipping off the section of the terminal with the insulation crimp and just relying on the wire crimp for strength. Now I can position the tool so that it only crimps the intended area, and the terminals pop right into the plastic housing. (Alternately, one could machine down the tool body to something smaller than .150".) The other thing I'd like to add is that there is a proper ( and improper) orientation for the terminals when sliding them in. Nobody seems to have mentioned that, but it makes a difference. It's easy to see once you look closely. Let me also add that this is all taking place on Molex Minifit Jr. connectors. I don't know if it's an issue on larger Molex connectors.
Best detailed video I’ve seen for how to crimp those pins. Do you have a video on removing the female pins. I can’t seem to find the right tool anywhere.
@@ginglean8287 these connectors are not exclusively for cars. I've used them in automotive applications and arcade machine wiring harnesses. I have a suitable crimp tool, but nothing to remove the pins once they are inserted. If you put them in the wrong hole or want to re-configure the connectors, you need a removal tool of the correct size, and that's what I am after. If you try to remove the pins without a tool, it gets damaged.
Thanks for the tips! I forgot that the female looking boxy crimps go in the male connector and the male looking crimps go in the female connector. Great tip for trimming for 22ga...
Thanks for the tutorial. I see you, too, suffer from the terribly painful affliction of cracked dry skin on the edge of the thumbs (usually in winter)!
I have a male pin got pushed during female joint. I dont have access to the wires on back. Is there is anyway/tool to pull the male pin to proper location?
+ Prenda Easiest way is to use the tube you find inside a ballpoint pen that has the ink in it. Use the open end of the tube and push it down over the pin side of the connector and it will squeeze in the hooks that hold it. You can then pull the wire out. Much easier than using the de-pinning tool.
Nice video but it would've been even better if you explained which slot you used for the two different crimping sections. Looks like you turned the crimper upside down in the second section but no comments about this. Nice and focused video.
Hi, nice video and demonstration! I don't suppose you'd happen to know the Molex part numbers for those two-position polarized shells (both male and female), would you? Been trying to track down some of those. I believe the ones I need are for 0.093" diameter pins.
The Molex parts like this with 0.093" pins are in the 1545 series. The one in this video looks smaller, probably the 1625 series with 0.062" pins. Your comment is several years old, but maybe someone else will be looking for these part numbers. :)
@@danlake7970 Hi Dan. I did figure out after a while that the 1545 series is what I was seeking. Your comment may be delayed, but I'm still alive and glad to get the corroboration anyway, ha ha! Thanks!
Thank you sir! Realised I’d stuffed mine up. Thanks again. Vids like these are worth their weight in gold !
You should update your description to include something like "also e30 BMW 3 series pin and socket connectors for housing numbers c404 and c405" because they are known to fail and I spent more time than I would have liked every step of the way. This video helped me figure out what I needed to do before I wasted the small bit of wire I'm working with. It sure beats the handycam RUclips how tos from when I last was fixing cars 20 years ago. This video was extremely helpful.
Edit: I can't punctuation.
Thankyou Sir .❤️❤️❤️ from Kerala, India
Super clear instruction. It helped tremendously for me crimping & install pins into a Molex 31067-1071 clip. Thank you
You make this look so easy.. I've never been good at this, but I'm going to give it another shot with your technique!
A helpful video. I'd like to add a couple comments that may be useful to others. In the video, you stress the importance of placing the tool properly during the initial wire crimp so as not to bend the adjacent section of the terminal. To do that, the tool has to fit between the two tabs. The distance available on the terminal is .150". The body on my IWiss crimping tool is .160", so it just isn't possible. I spent a lot of time trying, and your video helped me pinpoint the problem. The insulation on my 18AWG wire seemed larger diameter than the terminal was designed for, and I was getting a poor crimp on the insulation anyway, so I ended up snipping off the section of the terminal with the insulation crimp and just relying on the wire crimp for strength. Now I can position the tool so that it only crimps the intended area, and the terminals pop right into the plastic housing. (Alternately, one could machine down the tool body to something smaller than .150".)
The other thing I'd like to add is that there is a proper ( and improper) orientation for the terminals when sliding them in. Nobody seems to have mentioned that, but it makes a difference. It's easy to see once you look closely.
Let me also add that this is all taking place on Molex Minifit Jr. connectors. I don't know if it's an issue on larger Molex connectors.
Really appreciate for posting the video, I learn something from you here.
Thanks for taking the time to create this video
Great video, one of the few that are in excellent focus! Thank you!
Best detailed video I’ve seen for how to crimp those pins. Do you have a video on removing the female pins. I can’t seem to find the right tool anywhere.
Hello, do you produce car wiring harness by yourself?
@@ginglean8287 these connectors are not exclusively for cars. I've used them in automotive applications and arcade machine wiring harnesses. I have a suitable crimp tool, but nothing to remove the pins once they are inserted. If you put them in the wrong hole or want to re-configure the connectors, you need a removal tool of the correct size, and that's what I am after. If you try to remove the pins without a tool, it gets damaged.
@@markcummings150 Indeed, the terminal may be broken even if it is removed
Old video I know, but very helpful. Thank you!
those are some working hands. ha ha! Nice vid
Thanks for the tips! I forgot that the female looking boxy crimps go in the male connector and the male looking crimps go in the female connector. Great tip for trimming for 22ga...
Great, detailed instructions with professional "tips". Thanks
Good and clear teaching video!
Thank you Master, from Peru!
Once you put it in the connector, is there any way to pull it out or is it stuck inside permanently ?
Clear and to the point!
Good video. Thanks for posting.
Thanks. I need it today..
great instructions!
Thanks for the tutorial. I see you, too, suffer from the terribly painful affliction of cracked dry skin on the edge of the thumbs (usually in winter)!
I have a male pin got pushed during female joint. I dont have access to the wires on back. Is there is anyway/tool to pull the male pin to proper location?
Great video, could you list the part numbers
Thank you sir!!
Is the Molex Crimper the same as an Open Barrel Crimper?
Thank you!
Any good tips on doing cathode pins? Can't seem to get them to work.
very helpful
what siZe of barrel use in water inlet valve washing machine the flat pin
Are the pins numbered, like a size, or by what gauge wire is to be used? Thank you
Link to crimping tool please.
is there a way to take them out after they are clipped into the molex?
TellUmItsPrenda Yep. Get yourself a de-pinning tool and you'll be good to go
+
Prenda
Easiest way is to use the tube you find inside a ballpoint pen that has the ink in it. Use the open end of the tube and push it down over the pin side of the connector and it will squeeze in the hooks that hold it. You can then pull the wire out. Much easier than using the de-pinning tool.
Only with the fire of Mt Doom could you do this..
Not "like so!"
"So! means "like this."
What does "In and Of itself' mean?
Nice video but it would've been even better if you explained which slot you used for the two different crimping sections. Looks like you turned the crimper upside down in the second section but no comments about this. Nice and focused video.
THANKS good stuff
Hi, nice video and demonstration! I don't suppose you'd happen to know the Molex part numbers for those two-position polarized shells (both male and female), would you? Been trying to track down some of those. I believe the ones I need are for 0.093" diameter pins.
The Molex parts like this with 0.093" pins are in the 1545 series. The one in this video looks smaller, probably the 1625 series with 0.062" pins. Your comment is several years old, but maybe someone else will be looking for these part numbers. :)
@@danlake7970 Hi Dan. I did figure out after a while that the 1545 series is what I was seeking. Your comment may be delayed, but I'm still alive and glad to get the corroboration anyway, ha ha! Thanks!
Are the pins suppose to be lose in the housing?
+
Marv JS
Yep they can easily move around in the housing. Just as long as they cannot be pulled back out the way you put them in.
you can't use a B crimp on the insulation tangs
What kind of cutter is that that you're using for the wings?
Thanks for the help
Flush cutter if that's the answer you're looking for. Not the same thing as side cutters, side cutters cut on one side, but don't cut flush.
I can’t get my wires to click into the connector they just wobble about!
try pushing the terminal inside the connector by a pen nib or any lengthy object with small dia such that it locks the terminal
@@naresh.karthi Ok thanks
Good! Exactly what I want to know.
Life saver XD
Do you have to use a crimper? It works nice, but I only have needlenose pliers.
rainchains: Simple, buy a pair!
nice
They NEVER crimp properly, it always mangles it up.
Shup up
🧟
Ow my. This guy is obviously retired... not my pace video. 🤦♂️ couldn't possibly talk any slower ...
nice