I've heard the solution to some of your problems is to HEAT UP THE SAND CASTING First! Then there is not as much temperature shock between the 1,200 F Aluminum and the sand casting. i.o.w. A cold sand mold will shock cool the aluminum, causing problems.
In a college metal casting class, I remember being taught to put talcum powder in the mold first to make the release of the casting more ''Clean''@@TheMotorcycleForge
@GregMacDougall-m3n Yep, that's definitely a go-to for sand casting. It's not required for investment casting, though, as the investment is water soluble.
Huge respect for your effort & determination Its good to see honest content showing the failure's associated with learning, success is close keep at it!
Really loving the series mate, can't wait for the next instalment. You should extend your crucible pickerupper a bit past the crucible so you can rest it on an axle stand. That way you aren't holding all the weight when pouring and you can be a bit steadier?
Awesome project!! I have done a bellhousing from a lost 3d print for a Lotus Europa project. I encountered similar problems with voids and inclusions from debris and trash in the mold. Keep the faith!! I think part of my issue was trying to burn the plastic out in one go in a kiln. I am going to try melting it out at a lower temp before going to a full cure which causes the plastic to fully burn. I hope to cast a head as well one day :)
@charleswahlert3353 Thanks Charles. Yeah there is definitely an art to it and I think the more complex the pattern the harder it is to nail. Onto some machining now to try get the first peice of the puzzle ready.
@@TheMotorcycleForge I can't wait to see the results. If I make any headway with my casting issues I will reach out. I tried the ceramic shell method instead of investment. I need to play with investment as I think it is superior for something complex like a head with hollow passages. The ceramic shell vitrifies and becomes very hard to remove. Do you use any kind of soluble support for the water passages? I have some Formula Mazda shift forks I am planning to cast soon out of bronze with the lost shell method.
@charleswahlert3353 Yeah this water based investment is definitely the way to go regarding water passages. No water soluble supports unfortunately , I just designed the water jacket to not got over 45 degree overhang, so it will print without supports and the odd small bridges. Seems to work ok. Regarding the 3d print I have found that polycast gives a better finish than pla and leaves less crap in the mold. Upside-down Burn out helps as well.
@@TheMotorcycleForge I am using poly cast too and have had some issues getting it to print as well as normal PLA. What temperatures have you had the best luck with?
@charleswahlert3353 To get it to print nice, first you need a filament dryer/spool holder and pretty much have it on for 4 hour to dry it and leave it on when printing. Temp wise first layer 210c and rest 201- 202c. I use a glue stick on the build plate as well. Hope that's helpful
Would it be worth simplifying the mold? Maybe casting the timing cover as a separate piece then weld it on. That way you could focus on one bit at a time and its not 'all or nothing'. Best of luck!
@GafferTapeIsSticky I never thought of trying it that way. I'll see how I go with the next castings. They will most likely be some much easier parts like, barrel, cam caps ect. Definitely thinking of ways to simplify the mold to make life easier.
That´s cool anyways... The only advice/direction I could give, is stop caring about 4strokes, and cast 2strokes instead, especially those with DI (Ditech, Purejet). Did you know, that by varying the exhaust-header-length, you can extend the 2stroke-powerband by 3x-4x, thus making it not only more powerful over the entire rpm-range, but also more efficient (than a naturally aspirated 4stroke) over the entire rpm-range...!!! Building a variable-length-header is surely something new (sliding tube-in-tube), where nearly none has much practice, but it´s surely easier, than anything one deals with, when messing with a 4stroke ...
@@TheMotorcycleForge Just a hint, since I always feel a bit bad for people, who mess with 4strokes, too much effort, too little in return. On the other side, finding know-how about 2strokes is a lot harder, even in this time and age... Here you can see, how a simple experiment doubles the powerband. Guy extends length by pushing with his leg, maybe just not professional/production-ready enough yet... ;-) aneETdq-ai8&t=1118s
Variable llength exhausts are standard on racing outboards (boats). Not something new. Also been tried on motorcycles by a few people. Very difficult unless the pipe is straight.
Man there’s a method using rhea casting or use the high pressure method, so the molten aluminium is squish to a piston into the moulding, or use the gravity casting
When u have the 3d print ready put it in the investment and while it still didn’t cure put it in a vacuum chamber to suck the air out Try other designs that help the air escape easier and the machine it off
@8:00 you were literally playing with fire. Please put down a bed of sand when you pour. If any stray aluminium hits that concrete, you will enjoy a free trip to the ED. I have a half sheet of plywood with a 1x4 frame that holds a bag or two of play sand-makes all the difference for your safety!
I've heard the solution to some of your problems is to HEAT UP THE SAND CASTING First!
Then there is not as much temperature shock between the 1,200 F Aluminum and the sand casting.
i.o.w. A cold sand mold will shock cool the aluminum, causing problems.
@@GregMacDougall-m3n
It was pre-heated to around
600 degrees C
In a college metal casting class, I remember being taught to put talcum powder in the mold first to make the release of the casting more ''Clean''@@TheMotorcycleForge
@GregMacDougall-m3n Yep, that's definitely a go-to for sand casting.
It's not required for investment casting, though, as the investment is water soluble.
Huge respect for your effort & determination Its good to see honest content showing the failure's associated with learning, success is close keep at it!
@bcowland9186 I knew it wasn't going to be easy but it's definitely testing my resolve.
I'll keep at it!
Really loving the series mate, can't wait for the next instalment.
You should extend your crucible pickerupper a bit past the crucible so you can rest it on an axle stand. That way you aren't holding all the weight when pouring and you can be a bit steadier?
@dan5her Oooh the axle stand is a great idea.
I'll give that a go next casting.
@TheMotorcycleForge also, once you get this down and prove the concept, I expect you to make a Magnesium head as well 🤣
@dan5her It's definitely crossed my mind, but apparently, magnesium isn't very good as a cylinder head material.
According to the internet anyway.
Fall down 7 times get up 8 Logan! You have a usable head now, Woo Hoo!!!!! 1 Step closer...........😎
@DustyVisorMotorcycles Yes its been a bit of a mission but getting there slowly.
Awesome project!! I have done a bellhousing from a lost 3d print for a Lotus Europa project. I encountered similar problems with voids and inclusions from debris and trash in the mold. Keep the faith!! I think part of my issue was trying to burn the plastic out in one go in a kiln. I am going to try melting it out at a lower temp before going to a full cure which causes the plastic to fully burn. I hope to cast a head as well one day :)
@charleswahlert3353 Thanks Charles. Yeah there is definitely an art to it and I think the more complex the pattern the harder it is to nail.
Onto some machining now to try get the first peice of the puzzle ready.
@@TheMotorcycleForge I can't wait to see the results. If I make any headway with my casting issues I will reach out. I tried the ceramic shell method instead of investment. I need to play with investment as I think it is superior for something complex like a head with hollow passages. The ceramic shell vitrifies and becomes very hard to remove. Do you use any kind of soluble support for the water passages? I have some Formula Mazda shift forks I am planning to cast soon out of bronze with the lost shell method.
@charleswahlert3353 Yeah this water based investment is definitely the way to go regarding water passages.
No water soluble supports unfortunately , I just designed the water jacket to not got over 45 degree overhang, so it will print without supports and the odd small bridges.
Seems to work ok.
Regarding the 3d print I have found that polycast gives a better finish than pla and leaves less crap in the mold.
Upside-down Burn out helps as well.
@@TheMotorcycleForge I am using poly cast too and have had some issues getting it to print as well as normal PLA. What temperatures have you had the best luck with?
@charleswahlert3353 To get it to print nice, first you need a filament dryer/spool holder and pretty much have it on for 4 hour to dry it and leave it on when printing.
Temp wise first layer 210c and rest 201- 202c.
I use a glue stick on the build plate as well.
Hope that's helpful
Sick vid 🔥
Don’t give up! Come a long way since the early attempts. So close now!
You could swing by and give me a hand 😉
Would it be worth simplifying the mold? Maybe casting the timing cover as a separate piece then weld it on. That way you could focus on one bit at a time and its not 'all or nothing'. Best of luck!
@GafferTapeIsSticky I never thought of trying it that way.
I'll see how I go with the next castings. They will most likely be some much easier parts like, barrel, cam caps ect.
Definitely thinking of ways to simplify the mold to make life easier.
Don't give up boss motivation coming from RSA🇿🇦 , trail and error makes the success more tasty 😂.
@shariefbegg4782 Thanks man, will do.
You got this
This is an inspiring channel I want to cast my own 2t crankcase, cylinders and heads, keep up the good work bro 🔥
@cristianrivera3646 Thanks Cristian, much appreciated.
Go for it!, You can do anything!
That´s cool anyways... The only advice/direction I could give, is stop caring about 4strokes, and cast 2strokes instead, especially those with DI (Ditech, Purejet). Did you know, that by varying the exhaust-header-length, you can extend the 2stroke-powerband by 3x-4x, thus making it not only more powerful over the entire rpm-range, but also more efficient (than a naturally aspirated 4stroke) over the entire rpm-range...!!! Building a variable-length-header is surely something new (sliding tube-in-tube), where nearly none has much practice, but it´s surely easier, than anything one deals with, when messing with a 4stroke ...
@klausbrinck2137 Plan to get this engine running first and see how it goes.
I have other engine plans too, but you will have to wait to see em 😉.
@@TheMotorcycleForge Just a hint, since I always feel a bit bad for people, who mess with 4strokes, too much effort, too little in return. On the other side, finding know-how about 2strokes is a lot harder, even in this time and age... Here you can see, how a simple experiment doubles the powerband. Guy extends length by pushing with his leg, maybe just not professional/production-ready enough yet... ;-) aneETdq-ai8&t=1118s
Variable llength exhausts are standard on racing outboards (boats). Not something new. Also been tried on motorcycles by a few people. Very difficult unless the pipe is straight.
@@rogerwhitmarsh3644 Variable length intake and exhaust lengths are definitely on my list of things I want to try but need to get it running first.😉
Man there’s a method using rhea casting or use the high pressure method, so the molten aluminium is squish to a piston into the moulding, or use the gravity casting
@@manray8513 I'll look into it.
When u have the 3d print ready put it in the investment and while it still didn’t cure put it in a vacuum chamber to suck the air out
Try other designs that help the air escape easier and the machine it off
@8:00 you were literally playing with fire. Please put down a bed of sand when you pour. If any stray aluminium hits that concrete, you will enjoy a free trip to the ED. I have a half sheet of plywood with a 1x4 frame that holds a bag or two of play sand-makes all the difference for your safety!
Keep up the great work bro, failure is only temporary but success is forever. You got this 🫶
@@typicalcambieau-666 That's a gr8 saying, will keep that in mind.
Legend!