2CV Windscreen Wipers - AGAIN! Spindle refurb Part 3
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
- This one contains some hot lathe action! How not very HubNut. Will refurbished spindles sort out my Citroen 2CV's wiper issue? Cheers to Colin for the making and fitting new spindle bushes.
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It's great to see a good traditional machinist who knows how to do a job properly.
There are a few of us still left but we're a dying breed here in the UK.
@@rayjennings3637 I must admit, that made me cringe, too!
His antique lathe will last longer with the oiler turned on.
Not sure what you're referring to.
Colin certainly knows his way around the workshop, I do admire traditional ‘men in shed’ style engineering, keeping alive old school crafts and expertise!!.
...what a Friday night - a beer and a video about a refurbished 2CV windscreen wiper unit!
Living the dream right there
"Put the bush on the horrible and sticky shaft. Reasonable amount of play" Sounds familiar.
always clean your shaft. ooo-err missus
Personally i think Colin did a brilliant job....both with the refurb and the video....nice to see a craftsman at work
Plenty of lathy channels. Ades workshop, doubleboost, This Old Tony, Aborn/Aborm etc.
Colin might not be a videographer but he is a legend in a workshop!. Good times
Yeah, Colin knows his stuff! Liked watching his segment a lot
I love the metal shavings flying into the rolled up shirt sleeve. Very health and safety!
Colin done a fantastic job with the wiper assembly, fair play to him for videoing it!
I'll forgive the grainy footage for some hot lathe action any day.
Plenty of lathy channels. Ades workshop, doubleboost, This Old Tony, Aborn/Aborm etc.
In an era of brainless parts swapping, it's a pleasure to see someone who knows how, and is willing, to rebuild the old unit and correct its' design defects! We'll all be in the ground before that repair fails or wears out.
That lathe looks like something from the early 20th century, much like the lathe I learned on in my grandfather's basement.
Great work by Colin. With the light coming through the shafts onto Elly she's looking like she's in an 80s video
I can't recall who told me to lengthen the linkage many years ago but I did so and have never had any trouble since.
I removed it, cut it in the middle, then welded both parts to a bit of steel bar a few mm apart.
I'm sure it'd be possible to weld a 1mm gap up - so no new metal other than from welding rod.
Sandles alert!!
Really enjoyed this video and really a enjoyed Colin's work, we need more people to learn a trade like this to keep these classics on the road.
Dying art these days me thinks
what a pleasure to watch some oily rag shed engineering :-)
Plenty of lathy channels. Ades workshop, doubleboost, This Old Tony, Aborn/Aborm etc.
I like the videos that show things being repaired.
Very simple, take the rebuilt spindles out if the current assembly, by undoing the nuts. To remove them from the linkage there is a horrible small clip, which is crimped round a groove in the shaft, pry them apart to remove them. Once the rebuilt spindles and are freed from the linkage you then swap them onto the other assembly. Or if the second one has a slow motor, swap the linkage off that onto the one with the rebuilt spindles... There has to be a combination of bits that will work there somewhere!
Cheers Colin. Some lovely comments about your segment.
I agree with the others. Drill a hole in the long mounting plate and put a bolt through with a nut on. Provides a phys.ical stop so it can't go over centre. Something rather nice about watching a bloke machining metal. Lovely laith work...👍
I love 2CV mechanicals. You can actually see how things work. Great. Pete 🇬🇧
As others have said.. Although Colin may not be the best "Videographer", it still captures what a true professional he is with his tools. Great work all round!
Colin saves great day. Wiper action for the good times.
Big thanks to Colin for sharing his workshop skills. I could watch that kind of thing for hours. I watch one awesome Russian RUclips machinist who understandably has no English and it doesn't detract from the joy of watching one bit. I also think the idea of a bolt as a stop is a good easy fix.
Plenty of lathy channels. Ades workshop, doubleboost, This Old Tony, Aborn/Aborm etc.
Friday night on my break at work and watching you talk wipers 😂
I must be a nutter watching a video about a windscreen wiper arm fix on a fri night !!!!! GREAT CONTENT STAY SAFE HUB NUT FAMILY🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧☕☕☕☕☕☕☕
Like how this has a 3d look at the start. You with a thin white light around your body edges , right arm on the car looks further back and then the barn backdrop
its the louvres thought it was green screen
Lovely video, even with poor camera work it is still entertaining to see how someone builds a better wiper bushing using a lathe.
13:01 ..... "Oh"...and a pause!! love it.
Beautiful old lathe with the little oiler on the chuck-side bearing.
proper old school machinery, will last a 100years :-)
@@ruglund Not with the oiler turned off as that one was !
I LOVE that wiper assembly, Mr Ian. I have to do something similar to my MGB - it's a nightmare getting them in and out!
HubNut definition of a car: a machine for transporting windscreen wipers.
I liked Colin's videography (focus is a problem with the camera, not the user), but I wonder if a certain amount of oil and workshop grunge has got on the lens of his camera? Worth a gentle wipe with some isopropyl alcohol.
The way the ambient light hits you and the whole scene makes it look as if you've been added onto the video using CG ... it's a bit weird, but it lends the whole a kind of a mystic feel. Ian, the car mystic (function)!
Looks like a space back drop on a Blakes7 episode
I jus got a 1979 Dyane, which hasn't been on the road for a good few years, after watching your vids it looks like I got a lot of work ahead of me.
I do love an old workshop full of old tools fantastic this is what we are loosing unfortunately the fellas who do these jobs great video
Try: ruclips.net/video/ZOYHr1A3J-I/видео.html
Hi Ian. Removing the spindle ass'y from the frame is as simple as undoing the large nut on the spindle body that locks it in place. That'd allow you to check & adjust the position of the spindle closer to the motor crank thus not affecting the throw of the L/H wiper. Alternatively, swapping the new spindles over to the spare motor/frame ass'y might be even simpler as it seems to have the correct geometry already (or maybe just that tie rod is worn out - there's a lot of clonking going on when they're running after all). The first step is to free the clips holding the tie rod ends onto the spindle cranks (with the whole caboodle held still by Miss Hubnut) and be ready to catch the clips while you pry them out as they're bound to go flying! Thank goodness the 2cv dash is so easy to remove! Chris.
Hi Ian good video nothing like a good tinkering video, you will get there in the end just keep persevering
Ian,
Here's a thought. Is it possible that the drive bar from the motor to the right spindle is just a bit too short? I would think if it were just a bit longer (or rather, the holes in it were just a bit farther apart) that it wouldn't be in danger of going over center; even by a couple of millimeters. Have you tried swapping in the right side drive bar from the refurbished assembly into the one that was just rebuilt? If nothing else, you could have one machined. It looks like a piece of bar slock with holes drilled in it. You could just make one or have it made with the holes slightly farther apart.
Presumably the core problem is that as you speculated, the spindle on the right side is just a bit farther away from the motor mount than it's supposed to be. but lengthening the drive bar would compensate for that. It would change the rightmost and leftmost position of the wiper on that side *slightly*, but you'd just adjust by re-indexing the wiper on the spindle shaft so it wouldn't matter.
Craig Steffen
I was just about to post the same thing, alternatively can the 'naughty' spindle assembly be moved a millimetre or two closer to the motor assembly and still fit through the holes on the flitch panel.
The short bar is too short. Needs making longer, use spare long one and cut it down but make it 1 _ 2 mm longer and re rivet with steel rivets.
@@mikeburnitt403 Right. But "moving" the spindle, which probably just mounts into a hole in the wiper assembly frame, probably isn't trivial. You can't just move a hole in a metal plate less than its diameter without filling in the old hole or replacing part of the frame.
Whereas making a new drive bar should be fairly simple. It doesn't have to be very precisely made, except for the distance between its two holes.
Lengthening the rod would work but as there is still play in the linkage maybe re-bushing the rods may eliminate the play and not cause the problem of going past
Obiviously this is done with new spindles , its pointless with worn ones.
Another quality video Mr Seabrook. Thanks.
Used to have a play problem on the P11 Nissan Primera wipers because Nissan changed from a metal bodied spindle holder to plastic that used to wear rapidly, the trick was to find P10 metal bodied spindle holders that were a straight swop.
Ian ,cant you just put a bolt through the assembly so it cant go over center and lock ???
Oops, just said the same thing... great minds, etc!
My bodge too.
Just what I was thinking.
Just said the same then read the comments and saw yours so I've deleted mine 😂
Drill a hole in the windscreen and put a bolt through as a wiper stop - is I think what they're suggesting ;)
Put a bolt through the sheet metal, at a spot where it *just* won't touch the little arm on the spindle. That way, if it threathens to ping into the locked position, it'll hit the bolt instead and have not yet pinged far enough to lock.
If you hear it clicking against the bolt, then things have gone out of whack and serious work is needed.
If putting a bolt in there is no option, you can also epoxy a tiny block of wood on the inside, under the arm on the spindle maybe.
A marvellous bit of 2CV TLC, especially the section in the workshop. I could almost smell the Swarfega.
Have you noted Ian has a can of another deb product !
I miss my humble 2CV.
I think it's time to get the ruler out and compare things like link and crank lengths. From what I can see of the reworked assembly it just doesn't look right. Do you know its provenance? That aside, it was wonderful to see someone doing real machining - thumbs up to Colin from here!
Top Hub vid..old style grime and an insight into making 'fings' brilliant from both.
Have thought of bolting a rubber bump stop through the area where it flips over. If you position it correctly it will strike the rubber and bounce back to it's correct line of travel.
Cut the offside linkage and weld an extension piece in. The stroke will remain exactly the same but will just move the spindle arm further over to stop it going over centre. We had the same issues on coaches but often they had adjustable linkages so didn't need to cut and weld them.
always fun videos, good old Colin saved the day
There can only be a handful of things causing this:
1) The distance between the motor and the spindle is larger, i.e. the metal frame itself is different. Unlikely and should be obvious.
2) The crank arm on the motor is longer. This will give increased sweep on both wipers.
3) The crank arm on the affected spindle is shorter. This will give increased sweep on that wiper.
4) The linkage between the motor and wiper cranks is longer. Sweep will be almost the same, but the arc that the wiper crank travels through will be shifted.
Suggestions of fitting bolts etc. to stop it going over-centre are nasty bodges, a few minutes with a tape measure should find the actual cause of the problem.
Totally agree. Each part needs to be measured, there MUST be a difference if the two work differently.
hope you get the indexing sorted ! lovely spindles .hope the splines are engaged !! poor Elly !! shes V nervous in her old age !!😀
Can you swap your rebuilt spindles onto the mechanism which doesn't lock out?
Great to see mates helping eachother out, the only real way we are able to keep classics on the road these days. As a temp fix to the over center problem could you try an old suction mount on the outside of the screen at the end of the driverside wiper sweep to inhibit the wiper overreaching in heavy winds?
like others suggested put a stopper in the channel but instead of using a bolt which would probably make a annoying clang noise get a piece of square solid rubber block close to the channel size and tall enough to stop it going over centre and glue it in to stop it locking the arm up when it goes over centre
Nice spindle work by Colin. Good bit of engineering.
"it's the job that keeps on giving" lol.... I'll have to remember that one.
Great work by Colin!
Most interesting, I was thinking adjustable length arms might help ? Nice tweak sealing the spindles. I had a Fiat Punto whose rear wiper was forever seizing due to lack of similar sealing, cured it by fitting a BL A series valve stem seal under the arm, sorted !! May be a possibility on other cars, I was thinking Pinto seals might fit the Citroen ?
The wipers on my Vectra kept popping out, got a ebay scrap set, then the other vectra wipers mech also popped out. both newer sets seemed to be the improved later model.
Angle grinder and welder is your friend. Either shorten or lengthen the connecting rod to that offending wiper spindle by a couple of millimetres. I suspect shortening it by the width of a thin cutting disk would do the trick. Would only take ten minutes to do the job with the linkage once more removed from the car.
Ian, when the arm is in that position and you push it over, well the space it go's in put something there, small round bar or just a screw or bolt so the linkage will hit it and not go over think that will work ??????
Put the right hand arm into it's easy-to- overcentre position, then drill a hole through both sides of the pressing it mounts in, thus to fit a long, thin bolt (M6?) and a locknut (even a thick bit of fencing wire with a bend each end (because Wales). This will stop the crank from being able to go overcentre because you've put something in the way. The old maxim about measuring and thinking before drilling holds very true here, particularly as far as clearing of bodywork and moving parts goes with regards to whatever you poke through your new holes.
Innuendo? Isn't that Italian for 'Suppository'? :-O
My daily driver is a 1999 Peugeot 306 Husky 1.4l manual. I paid only 140£ for it(!) With 1 year od insurance, mot and almost brand new stereo! It only had minor rust wich was easy to repair and the famous suspension beam was shot. Replaced that, i have no other issues with it
The video clip may be a bit fuzzy but it is still perfectly adequate. Many successful video makers have started with far worse! It seems the linkage arm on the problem end is marginally too short somehow. I wonder if it was outside spec from new, and only the flexing of the mount sub-chassis alongside rust and and wear has pushed it to the point where it can fail. Very odd.
A new experience: constant blurry images with my fat glasses ON (!) ;-))
My bodge. Drill a hole in the bottom of the channel, where the bar drops to when overcentre. Put a bolt with nut in said hole, protruding enough to act as a stop to the long bar if it gets any silly ideas again.
Just stick a bolt through it so it acts as a stop to prevent it going over centre and call it a day. :)
So Elly has a smiler face now. 😃
14:31 might I suggest a bodge to prevent your R/H wiper arm going over center? What you should do is drill a small hole in the support frame behind the wiper arm pivot and insert a self tapping screw to act as an end stop for the arm pivol to stop it from going fully over center, yes you may get an annoying tapping noise when your wipers are working as it hits the end stop but thats slightly preferable to your wipers jamming up solid while your driving down the road in the rain?
It looks like the link rod is just a little too long. Maybe that doesn't make sense or maybe something is bent. Or swap the new spindles to the unit that works and repaint it? Love the lathe. Cheers
The bolt to create a stop sounds good.
Or could you make slightly longer arms to go on the spindles. It would give you a slightly shorter arc but stop the arm getting to horizontal.
An angle grinder and big hammer are your friend - seems to work every time for Clarkson :)
Hello ian can you put a pin , bolt ,rivet or something similar to that through the assembly to stop it from going over centre, ? Just a thought. Also genuinely enjoyed you friends work on the lathe ,very old school , an art form that is slowly being lost with modern disposable cars.
Can you take the link arms off each unit and compare them length-wise - and put the longer one of the two back on ?
Or cut the link in half and weld it back together longer.
Engineering good times, top man.
Your issue now is wear in the bushes in the link rods. You can probably make up new ones yourself using donor plastic and DIY tools, and that should cure your problem once-and-for-all, until the bushes wear out again. The simple problem is that the worn bush in the link rods will allow the right linkage to move too far to the left when under pressure so it goes over centre and locks up. Making the right bush thicker on the outboard side will give extra margin to stop the over centre condition happening. The spindles are sorted and the motor is working correctly so the linkage has to be the problem now...
Often wondered why Elly and not Ellie, which is more French? Used to love turning brass as no "milk" to clean up afterwards. Still have the brass ashtray I turned at school, looking a bit green now as not polished for years, not used since going E.
It’s usually the motor that parks not the switch 👍🏼
Yes, but the control of said parking is via the switch. Disconnect the wire and the parking no longer operates. Problem before was that the wipers wouldn't stop because the motor part of that system wasn't working.
Thanks for the video, Colin. Great engineering work 😎 why not ask Colin if there is anything wrong with the park place whilst he had it? Hmm
As others suggest, can't you fit a stop, such as a bolt?
I thought the video quality was fine and quite atmospheric in fact.
I was expecting Colin Furze to use flames to dry the windscreen - but good job nevertheless! (you could contrive a stop the prevent it going over centre)
I'd say the holes in the ends of the linkages are probably bored out, lack of lubrication over the years, leaving that play in despite having new bushings fitted, only real solution for that is new linkage bars, however that may be achieved...
I fear I may have to carry out similar surgery on the Discovery's wipers. I was most disappointed by the lack of dismantlability regarding the rear screen wiper motor and mechanism but the water ingress was horrific. I do enjoy jobs like this but Land Rover don't seem to have taken into account the right to repair principle 😔
Good job Colin.
Right to repair was back in the good old days where you could stand within two metres of 'most' people without fear.
@@nigelbaldwin752 My partner and I run a small engineering company and try out very best to defy the throw away philosophy which seems to prevail these days. Nothing is more satisfying than resurrecting something broken. We also manufacture parts for vintage and classic, mainly British, motorcycles.
@@PurityVendetta like your thinking too many just toss things away in todays world i'm like you i enjoy repairing / restoring old parts and cars but hard to find machine shops that will make small bushing etc
Hi Ian I was thinking about how you might be able to fix the issue with your wipers you could try welding a small bit of steel below the part of the linkage that has the problem to act as a kind of bump stop I can't see why it wouldn't fix the issue and you would still have full range of motion in the wiper arm
Clever bloke that Colin. Pete 🇬🇧
It was all going so well until he knocked the bush home with a steel ball pein when he had a soft mallet sitting next to him!🤦🏻♂️ At least use a bit of wood as a drift. I presume he’s not time served with antics like that? There’s many an apprentice will have felt back of a journeyman’s hand for making that kind of mistake.
Still. It looks a good job and the lathe is a real classic!
Might sound silly, but would there be a way of putting a link bar wiper to wiper to stop the drive side going past the safe point? Like a loose rivet to each wiper arm. Wouldn’t look too aesthetically pleasing though maybe.
Great tinkering video Ian
12:00 that is so "Hubnut" 🤣
Man has skill, not all those guys, oh, get a new one and replace like now. Love when people can improvise and refurbish things instead of throwing away and have you buy new ones.
Very interesting to see
Sounds lovely and quiet. In stark contrast to Honda CR-V wipers from 2011 to 2018 which come from the factory with a cat strapped to the linkage behind the dashboard, in the cabin on every car as standard equipment, which scream for mercy every time wipers are used.
Citroen build quality was good enough for the French after the war anything with four wheels would do
Is the arm on the motor alloy ? A few mm at the pivot will be multiplied at the other end, just another thought remove the motor and see what play it has in the shaft - swap the motors over
What a legend! Bit ocd
2CV Wipers - It's a mini series!
Put a stop on the sheet metal to stop it going over centre, 😁👍
Add a stop to the mechanism
Could you mix and match the best linkage, motor and spindles?
Yes, does the other linkage go over centre? Parking is down to the wiring of the motor. The park stop is inside.
Which ever linkage set you use please derust and paint!
Sterling work Colin. Shouldn't have to look at those spindles for a very long time indeed. As for the linkage, is it possible to buy a new linkage?
Can you take the mechanism which dosen't go over centre from the wobbly set and fit it to the refurbished spindle and motor unit?
Colin's camera quality might not have been top notch but his sound was spot on. Nice to see a craftsman in action.