How to Fix Lifter Tick or Rod Knocks With Oil Additives
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2024
- In this video I will go over some of the common causes of lifter tick / knock or upper engine noise in general, but also the causes of a rod or main bearing knock and how you may try to fix them using oil additives. Most people are always looking for a way to quickly fix their lifter noise or engine noise issues and watching this video will surely help you find the fastest solution to your engine noise problem.
Here are links to products which were used in this video:
Engine Flush: amzn.to/2zAnz9K
Oil Stabilizer (Thickening Liquid): amzn.to/2xSRdcX
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Ratchets and Wrenches, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Ratchets and Wrenches assumes no liability for any property or personal damage that may arise from doing a repair on your vehicle after watching any of my repair video's. Due to factors beyond the control of Ratchets and Wrenches, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Again Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Ratchets and Wrenches.
hey man this guy is legit he gets technical but easy to understand and straight to the point 👍
You don't fix rod knocks with oil additives
It's for flipping cars like a shyster. It's fixed if you get your asking price for a shitted out engine.
If you think you have a lifter tapping, check for a loose or leaking plug wire first. It can be helpful to look for leaking plug wires in the dark. The 2 can sound very similar.
Good idea.
and if you still cannot find a possible leak then just gently slide your fingertips across the plug wires and surely it will find you :]
Make sure your blinker fluid is full if not it can leak and cause it to tick when you use it to turn 😉
@@surefiremushroomsmicrogreens I always do that when I rotate my muffler bearings and grease the radio.
You went waaaaaayyyyy beyond that "extra mile" in this video.
You're awesome.
Because he actually trying to teach as if u were there unlike other RUclipsr mechanics lol 😂
I've found that the best solution for engine noises is turn up the radio volume....;)
Hahaha !!! You are very hilarious but I totally agree with you. Rock & pop music are best.
Ill try that. .lol
Yes
ZZTopp Full Blast......."Driving While Blind"
Leong Yew Meng metal is the best
Best description of lifters and overall functionality of the internal components of the head of an engine I've seen. Great video.
Wow, I thought I was watching a high-budget Cable channel; the work that goes into these videos really shows!
Thanks for being so thorough. I love learning more about my car; I think I'll subscribe.
The most thorough lifter noise video on the tube ... Thanks a million.
I’ve never really understood how hydraulic lifters worked and how they received oil until now. Thank you. Great tutorial. 👍🏻. Subscribed.
Nice video. I'm not a mechanic and don't have the knowledge that you or your commenters have, but I was able to follow your clear explanations. I find engines fascinating. If I were younger and had the energy again, I think I'd consider that as an occupation. It looks like hard work, but building and repairing stuff would be rewarding.
Ive been tuning OHV,s since Fiat made twin cams, if you adjust the valve lash with the head off the block, it will change a hair when you tighten down the head bolts, plus I set my valve lash when the engine is hot, or at least check the lash when its hot, Shims are a pain, but since you dont have rocker arm it reduces wieghtplus removes unwanted motion.
You are very knowledgeable and professional in the issue highlighted. It is very informative and useful for the good maintenance of the engine to operate in good running condition. You did not miss out anything. You are direct and straight to the point. You are awesome !!! Keep up the good work ! I am Leong from Malaysia.
I’ve accidentally clicked on your videos a week ago, and I become more knowledgeable about vehicles than ever before.. KEEP THE VIDEOS COMING!! THANK YOU!
Good video my friend....I would like to add that some people hear Fuel Injectors popping pintel's and think their engine has an internal problem.....anyway this was one of your best videos, and my sister has never been naked......
I have a chevy astro van 2000, its been sitting for a week, when I started the engine the knocking noise was there. watching your Videos help to really understand Bro thank you very much.
You can fix rod knock by changing rod bearings if you catch early use assembly lube when replacing I do it all the time jus check crank for damage
That's the best maintenance for worn engines. If the bearings are worn, oil pressure goes down for the rest of the engine.
@@williamriley9226 rebuild
Good luck fixing rod knock with thicker oil. If its thats far the best option is to look at the bearings and hope the crank is fine before you throw a rod
I like to say thank you for putting time aside to teach us all that you had just spoken about on the engine.
You are very helpful and very knowledgeable, thank you.👍👍👍👍
good honest points about allowing time to refill empty-flat lifters & empty VARIABLE VALVE TIMING mechanism to get refilled after being empty.
This lubrication lesson stresses the importance of not driving a cold & dry engine.... 🤗
I watch the ads to support you bro
Organic I do too !!
I don't. Is there another way I can support?
Do you swallow too?
dreamrealitysyndrome Sharing the video and the channel helps support him as well.
@@dreamrealitysyndrome Yes, it's called reality.
As former ASE, when in doubt, ALWAYS go with new.
This guy is delusional. He thinks he's awesome when he couldn't be more wrong.
And the way you explain things is perfect for me to understand. Along with the visual examples. Couldn't be happier
educational, informative, humorous! thanks mate!
I really appreciate your channel. I drive for a living and this with maybe two other channels have helped me keep my 99 Taurus with over 260 k on the road!
No lifter issues...but damn, I learned a LOT from this video! Very informative stuff!
your videos are by far the best ones for fixing cars step by step. Keep posting!!! thanks!
I really liked the practical test of starting your car and seeing how long it took for the lifters to quiet down. Nice work!
That was a good example indeed
@AzraelPercussionNEO so basically if your car sits overnight and it ticks when you start it then that is completely fine?
Excellent. Looks like I'm taking the right first approach to my noisy hydraulic lifters.
Thank you so much for posting this video. You are very thorough in going over all of the causes for different engine noises. I own cars and trucks that range in year from 1988 to 2008, both foreign and domestic. They all seem to have some form of these noises. It's nice to have some easy fixes to try before I go to the mechanic and shell out the big bucks for serious repairs. Thumbs up!!
This is very useful, thank you. I have a 2013 Subaru H6 engine and I thought the lifters make noise on a cold start but it goes away quickly - in about one minute. It is not loud and disappears at idle in about 60 seconds. It appears I probably don't have to do anything right now or perhaps add Liqui Moly 20004 Hydraulic Lifter Additive. I appreciate the advice you gave. The engine has about 138,000 on it.
Good vid, love the fast editing. FYI, rod and main bearing wear or damage can also be caused by sustained heavy load at high rpm and by sustained or ongoing fuel pre-detonation in addition to dirty oil or low oil. Most usually bearing wear and rod knocking will result from a combination of these causes, ie, sustained load at high rpm burning cheap gas that is pre-detonating 12,000 miles since the last oil change while three and a half quarts low on oil, which is usually what somebody does who is too cheap to do oil changes, check oil, uses 87 octane when the car is placarded for 91 or 93 or 102 and drives like a maniac on the freeway. Also, I've heard that repeated engine overheating can cause the oil to break down, causing its viscosity to change, causing bearing problems.
Kelly Trimble + It is so true what you have highlighted can contribute to the problem. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge with all of us.
Kelly Trimble this is exactly the problem with my Benz C250. I’ve used 87 fuel for 7 months before realizing it should be 91, now the engine makes a ticking noise. What can I do to fix it?
Cheap gas that really isn't 87 octane will also do it to you. Had this happen to a perfectly good V6 causing it to knock on cold starts (the ECU eventually adjusts the timing). Now I only used brand name premium gas and no more noises.
You obviously know your shit, why would my truck start misfiring, mainly under load over 30 mph, after adding restore.
Thanks man. Great video. I’ve been building my Miata racecar for like 18 months, and totally freaked out when I started the engine. I just needed a little patience.
I put Lucas oil additive on my rebuilt engines just as an extra precautions & of course replace the oil when it's due
Hows it going so far ?
You realize Lucas "additive" has zero additives in it, just greasy slop in a $10 bottle. It should be called a "subtractive" instead, since all it does is dilute the motor oil with brightstock, which then sheers into gunk. Even worse is when it flashes off turbo bearings. I suggest you google "los"at a laboratory oriented site like BITOG, and quit pouring ridiculous marketing goo into your engine.
@@bushmaster1740 good to know bush
What do you recommend sir to stop the wear and tear inside the motor?
@@hectorrzepeda2998 I'm gonna try MMO - Marvel Mystery Oil
3 yrs down the line, but the information is as important as I need it now. Thanks 👍, you have explained it well. And I have learned much.
This is the best video I ever watched! And I watch many.
I watched this video with the mindset, "you can't fix mechanical issues with miracle bottles", I'm so glad you said pretty much those same words. I like your channel.
will some lucas oil additive do the same thing for noisy lifter on start up?
I Appreciate thorough explanations in laymans terms. Sooo.. in my experience, the dreaded knock sounds like a heavy 'clunk,clunk...' in lower part of engine. The tick, tick .. is a lighter higher pitched noice at top of engine. Additives work if caught early !! Thanks for confirming that.
Also minimizing the idle time of your engine can prevent premature wear, as oil pressure is lowest during idle.
get a good oil filter with check valve in it to hold oil for next start up...the most wear happens on a restart esp a cold / dry start
My MGTF is not used much (but regularly started). Thought it had a sticky hydraulic lifter the other day. Put in some Wynns lifter lube and it seemed to fix it. Happy when the tapping went away.
Man dude you the man I been waiting for a video like this for a very long time thanks I'm save this video I appreciate it
who yue hell gave this a thumbs down? he gives such good info. unbelievable
no i can't hear it as you're constantly talking over it. still a thumbs up
Exactly. Wtf
Lifter noise @12:45
Very helpful video.
If you can hear the knock, it’s usually too late. I’ve found that periodically adding engine oil is much easier than an engine swap. It took a few engines to understand this concept. Live and learn I guess.
That is not true. You actually can save it when you hear a rod knocking couse your bad con rod bearings.
I wish we had mechanics like you where I live that could help me diagnose the knocking noise on my 2006 3500 impala with 136000 miles. My husband says it's a cracked flex plate, I say it is a bad lifter.
So, he changed the oil. Used the correct oil, I said to put in 1 quart of tranny fluid and then the other 3 quarts of oil. I drove the car 60 miles on the interstate, keeping the RPMS at 1900. And a consistent speed of 65-70 mph. While cruising ,, the noise was almost gone, lift off the gas,,and the noise DISAPPEARS. Come to a complete stop;knocking noise is outrageously loud. Remove foot from the brake, slowly accelerating, blue smoke appears from the exhaust and knocking noise is roughly 10% quieter but still loud.
So, in conclusion using tranny fluid to unstick a lifter in this car proves it's not a lifter knock.
Now, cylinder #6 had a very oil corroded plug and check engine light was on.
I swapped it out with the one next to it. This plus looked like you would expect. NOT heavy laden with corrosion. Once the plugs were switched, I started the car. STILL HAVE LOUD KNOCKING NOISE, butxcheck engine light went out. On my way back home, the light came on. So, tomorrow I expect to see cylinder 6 spark plug fouled out..
Another thing I noticed was with engine running and my husband put tranny in reverse and back into park , the engine moved more than I have ever seen one move. Why besides a motor mount going bad , would the engine tilt so drastically?.
Back to the flex plate; if any of the teeth were broken, or damaged, the starter would have a hard time " catching" onto the teeth and would not engage and start the engine
There is no problem with the starter , starting the engine.
The 1 thing I did notice every time it was started. The knocking did not start until the started was disengaged ( a micro second) , then the knock started.
I can not figure this out. So now the next thing is to remove the valve cover and make sure the rocker arm and push rod are not bent,or slipped.
HELP ME PLEASE.!
Why ? He'd charge 3x to put an additive in ..
1 other question does an engine knock have to become progressive louder and louder before the engine goes or will it go over time with just the same steady low knocking sound? This is a great knowledgeable auto shop class video 👍
Great video, but it should be mentioned that owners of flat tappet motors now need to add more ZDDP to their oil (STP is a good and cheap solution to this problem). Keep up the good work!
Chris Rodnock
lol
LOL
Lol Ricer Miata
Like a glove
That was an excellent video with a good explanation. Thanks
The main reason you have noise in both the lifters and in the big end bearings is that the oil galleries get clogged and the oil doesn't get to the parts any more (aka lack of lubrication). This typically occurs when the oil changes aren't done regularly or when the oil galleries are a bit too small and start to block with normal use.
The solution is either to fit larger galleries in key areas like the lifters or to improve lubrication to the problem areas.
Lighter oils will work for lifters but can create a problem for bottom ends.
Heavier oils work for bottom ends but can cause problems for lifters.
A flush will clean out the engine... but often it won't remove enough carbon (byproducts of combustion) and other particles (metals and dirt) to fix the problem... or you'll find that the problem comes back because you haven't addressed the cause of the problem (incomplete combustion).
One solution that will solve the problem in both the bottom end and the top end without compromising either is to improve lubrication by treating the metal directly. Then there will always be lubrication even if there is no oil e.g. xcelplus.com.au/
Applying Xcelplus single application super lubrication also cleans the engine and prevents carbon and particles from building up in the engine in the future... because the engine runs much cleaner. wears a lot less and nothing sticks to a treated surface.
:-)
I know your promoting your product no problem with that, just a question what would you recommend as a oil additive for lifters in a ford diesel 6.0?
An oil additive doesn't fix the problem permanently i.e. An oil additive has to be added to each oil change.
Xcelplus is a metal treatment and only needs a single application because it bonds to the metal and remains there even if you change the oil.
An oil additive won't stop the carbon deposits from forming again so the problem will return unless you add it every oil change. This gets very expensive and very few car owners ever consistently add an additive to each oil change?
Conversely, Xcelplus improves lubrication, the engine runs much cleaner which stops deposits from forming... so the problem can't recur.
Problem solved permanently.
🙂
P.S. Xcelplus will eliminate more noises in an engine and provide more protection than an oil additive even one that is added every oil change. It's not just the cleaning but also the lubrication that matters. Xcelplus is much more slippery than any oil additive and it also cleans better i.e. Includes a detergent
If you want additional lubrication you can add an oil additive. XcelPlus is synergistic with oil additives i.e. Both products work better together.
If you want more cleaning run a cleaner through before you add Xcelplus or an oil additive
PPS. Ring Free is an oil additive designed specifically to work with XcelPlus.
Sludge Out is a cleaner specifically designed to complement XcelPlus.
@@Xcelplus so will it fix or help stuck lifters?
Yes 🙂
The best additive I have ever seen for clearing a lifter tick or a mildly collapsed lifter, is Marvel Mystery Oil. Put about half a quart in your engine. You can run it along with the oil and I've seen it clear liquor noises in less time than it takes to close the hood. I've also seen it take 10 to 15 minutes to clear it. I have never seen one bad enough where it took longer than that. It's a great product, and it has been bottled since 1923. It still works as advertised, if you have a 4.7 L Chrysler V8 with the hydraulic lash adjusters you should be using this religiously. If you have a chain tensioner on your engine you should be using this religiously. It keeps those things from getting plugged up with sludge and it will unplug them if they are plugged.
I'll try this tomorrow and report back.
I've already tried Liqui Moly and that had no affect.
@@MFRiley how’d it work
Do you use the hole bottle that’s 5.99$
@@MFRiley did it work?
@@ihatecandy02 Didn't work. I drive a Mitsubishi Mintero and they are well known to develop lifter tick. I think the only thing that'll solve the noise for me would be replacing the lifters. I might do that at some point, but I'm a broke college student so it's not high on my priority list. It's not detrimental to the engine, just a bit annoying.
Glad I found your channel. My moms 2007 Yaris check engine light on so I changed spark plugs plus coil packs,then code for o2 sensor so I changed bank . Still runs rough and shakes the whole car. I bought a cheap sensor and changed it. Now it is running on three cylinders with a code p0308. The beginning code before any work was done was 2338.
Ur the smartest dude on RUclips ur a real human bean 👍🏽
Polo Sucks bean lmao
My first comment. Thanks for your vids well done. I had Ford ranger took it to 280 000. Just replaced clutches, but I didn't know anything about the vehicle. It started cutting out. No clue mech said mass airflow i had to beleive didnt work.You tube is helping me with my vw cabrio. Thanks again. very helpful
Great vid. My 08 impala SS 5.3L picked up a noise recently and I was wondering if it is bad to put Lucas stabilizer oil in it? 50,000 miles on it. What kinda lifters does it have? Thanks
It's more than likely hydrolic lifters
I run Lucas in a fully built civic your good
Great video bro I just realized my issue now I can tell my customer that she didn’t drop her engagement ring in her oil
If fluids are good and oil pump is functioning properly and you have internal noise nothing will fix it but replacing whats broke. Anything you add will be a problem later
i have a question so my 50k mile truck has a small ticking sounds coming from the engine i think it may be a bad lifter but the engine light comes on and goes away. Could i add something to help it?
@@bluedude947 I don't know the exact cause of your ticking but it also can come from using to thin of a oil in a hot climate at this point the viscosity of the oil becomes more like water than oil. A loosing rocker can cause this ticking. I would put a oil pressure gauge on her and check that you are getting the proper pressure without it only the bottom bearings on the crank and pistons will stay lubricated
Thanks for this ole school video,exhaust lash always loosen intake always get tight,adjust @40,000 .nothing here new ,when the cam was mid engine cars were adjusted every 12,000 1940- 1978!!
Everytime he said lifter I took a shot... Now I'm drunk.
😂😂😂
Lifter.
!!..lol..!!
People will find all sort of excuses to drink...
Estela Dapper I’ll drink to that. 🥂
My lifter noise began like 3 months after putting in a rebuilt cylinder head. Blows my mind. I heard some other say the same thing. After extensive research its yes. Its the valve lifter noise that when the engine warms up it goes away but on a rebuilt I find it unacceptable and its a back breaking job. I am not willing to take the head off. Not these v6 engines.
Great video mate tick tick tick
I like how you are using a Rover V8 as an example.
Good info, thanks!
But you shouldn't talk while you give us audio samples about engine noise, let us hear the difference first after that talk over it. #constructivecriticism
best video explaining hydraulic lifters. thanks
MARVEL MYSTERY OIL 4 days in crank and gas.
Keep using it I have 2 test cars also improves compression and mpg 12.4 improvement at 60 mph
Have had great success with Marvel
By far the best and most informative video on the subject matter that I've come across on RUclips! Kudos!
Thank you great video i learned alot from this video PLEASE MAKE MORE!!!!
camaro 2013 knocking. like it's loosing out side of Moyer
Thanks for putting this video together and for all the valuable information. It was also very exciting to watch all the tools and parts shacking and moving around when you revved up that AUDI. I hope that is just part of the entertainment. But again, thanks!
You're not fixing rodknock, you're only silencing it where you cant hear it but the rodknock is still there.
:( I learned it the hard way. Used Lucasoil stabilizer and fucked my engine years ago. I thought of suing them but took the blame because, the blame was ultimately mine. Lesson learned. Second lesson,: trial and error is not an acceptable way to learn auto mechanics
@@ghostrider2664 if you waited until you had a rod knock to add Lucas that's your problem. Lubricants are preventative, not corrective maintenance items. Adding a heavier weight oil on a dying engine isn't going to help anything.
Arroyo, he literally goes into detail that a rod knock can't be repaired short of rebuilding it.
Arroyo Gerardo I got this problem
Yeah but if you wanna sell it lol
Was curious about a scab fix until parts arrive, learned some useful things. Subscribed!
Great video. I particularly like how you took the engine apart and showed the various areas where oil circulation is needed. You also highlighted a major point I tell customers, that starts after the engine has sat for a long time or even over night is the time when most wear occurs on an engine. As you stated most oil additives treat the fluid to increase it's viscosity not always a good answer. As a used car salesmen you probably will enjoy this video by Gene Daughtry a veteran BHPH Dealer and consultant sharing his experiences with high mileage vehicles getting ready for sale or coming back from customers.
ruclips.net/video/x0fInnPRLy0/видео.html
All he did was let his audi run for a half hour in park and then Rev it. This guy really knows what's best.
God Bless...good understandable videos. j
Ahh...the Audi 2.7tt timing belt service...So glad I sold my s4...lol
Hi always enjoy your videos.
What about cam noises??
Is there a thing to help cam bearing noises??
Thank you again for everything.
God Bless
only thing i've found that helps cams is zddp addative. cams aren't actively lubricated, so they need somethitng soft that sticks. A lot of the time, noise from an overhead cam engine that's cam generated means you need to change your oil, though.
R230Tuner I actually have the same questions however I'm trying to eliminate what I believe to be the start of cam noise/lifter chirp on a 5.3 LS, from what I understand the people who have had it happen to them it starts out intermittent then is there all the time. Not sure if there are any additives that would help?
Tito Jones, someone have asked same question on some other channel. I recommend using better quality oil than what he was using. He switched to quality oil and noise went away. Noise is the result of metal rubbing against metal. High quality Oil eliminates noise because oil provides proper lubrication between metal components.
Thanks for all the explanation, you are very thorough and go thru lots of useful details . Appreciate your work.
My 1998 328i was sitting for almost a year and when I started the engine it had this ticking sound . After charging the battery I'll start the engine if the ticking doesn't go away I'll try the engine flush
The only reason our local retailers won’t sell Liqui Moly it cuz it actually works.
The Project Channel + Haha!!! You are right. If they do, they will be out of business. No money to make. lol.
Are all of there products good?
Efren Mendieta I’ve only use the fuel injector cleaner and it improved my fuel efficiency by 20 miles per tank so I call it a win plus it stopped the hesitation after taking off from a stop.
Cesar Ramos :Auto Zone in Couple Stores Here in ATL.Sells the Liquid Moly Gas Additive ,But Not the Oil Additive.Strange.My Sonata Was Pulling An Eng.Misfire Code& Plug for That Cyl.Was Fine,So Added the Liquid.Moly as A Preventive Measure In Case Injector was Clogged & Gas Mileage Went Way Up & Misfire Code Went Away & Liq.Moly Was Only $9 & More Than Twice As Much Additive Than the Small.Bottle Of Lucas
Ed Cain I suggested to my local autozone to start carrying liqui moly and the guys said that they have never herd of it. I usually get it from Amazon and I use it every 10k on my vehicle.
You forgot something. Do I need a permission slip for this Engine x ED classes.. very explicit content like it's been a week I been looking at videos I'm not say how many hours I spent a day... ur video hands down is one of the best videos I seen o n lifters ticks
Note to self : don’t buy an Audi from this guy
Audi , why should I want one
Bruh
The engine block is from a Subaru.
@@mariagricius8994 what kind of Subaru has V8 🤔
@@mariagricius8994 ahahahaha 🤣
Looking at the anatomy of an engine you can see there are many small passages where oil has to pass through the engine components and it is crucial that these small passages are clean and not clogged with oil sludge. Change your oil on time to avoid. Engine flush seems like a good thing to do after 40000-50000 miles to remove oil sludge deposit. The flush will make your engine clean and run great again
When I was a kid, my uncle used to have hydraulic valve lifter noise on cold start-up in his Packard! Amazing that it took so long for the lifters to work properly in that Audi no matter how long it was sitting. If that's "normal", it's yet another good reason not to own one of those masterpieces of German "engineering".
Best video editing by the mechanic...alone Job
A good lubed rod is very important...... ask my lady she will tell you!
Sorry to hear this. I'm sure you'll find some other girl who is more faithful.
You guys are too much!lol
It's ok dryness comes with age
@@oreogonzalez8123 not if someone is doing thier job right lol
Wet or dry it doesn't matter the head ,ache is a headache no matter how u add it up once it's not serviced properly
Great video. Very professional and informative. Thanks for posting.
Seems like your Audi was smoking... I am assuming it's burning off dust / debris from sitting so long?
Had lifter noise on cold starts like ticking a rattling that kinda went away when the engine warmed up but never fully went away.
I have 250.000 Kilometer on my engine so the 0w30 original spec doesn't really cut it anymore. I switched to a 0w40 fully synthetic and t improved a lot.
Compare the spec-sheets of 0w30 and 0w40 and you will see that 0w40 is thicker when cold and hot. So far my engine is absolutely loving that oil and going from a 30 weigh to a 40 weight oil was just kind of an experiment since the oil will then also be thicker when its hot but there seem to be no negative consequences at all. People on forums say 0w30 is too thin for my engine when its brand new and im starting to believe that since its a diesel from 2007 and the engine itself was developed almost a decade before that year so go figure...
Going to use a 5w40 or 10w40 trough the summer.
0w40 and 5w40 is kind of the same going by viscosity numbers on the specsheets 0w40 is just made for the extreme cold but 10w40 is significantly thicker when cold so im a bit reluctant to dump that in my car but I will try it.
So far 0w40 and 5w40 seems to be what works best for me.
I will never use additives since there is no control over what they really do in your engine. With switching oil viscosity I know 100% whats in there.
Good video! I hope you don't get many thumbs down!🤣🤣🤣
Very amazing info - on Rod knock versus lifter tick - treatments
He said everything about oil additives but he didn't say anything when you will add oil additives and how will affect the lifters
My LS1 used to have lifter noise and bottom end noise at idle until I used Mobil 1 High Mileage oil. 2000 miles later, the engine is smooth as butter now. The high mileage oil has a lot more detergents and it possibly cleaned out my oil passages. The damage may have been done though, but at least it runs like new again. The last owner probably always used cheap oil and didn't change it often enough.
Good job! Cheap oil and filters kill.
“How to fix rod knock with oil additives”.......then, “you can’t fix it”🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
Keep up the videos I'm learning so much, thank you for filling the gap in my head
Audio is a bit desynchronized.
Wonderful instruction. Should be required for anyone that has a car.
Remember Murphy’s Law? If you thicken oil to take care of part of the engine, other part/s of the engine may go bad because you thicken the oil to take care of one part of the engine, which may expedite total failure. Makes sense? Do it the right way and have it worked on it, or hurry up and save money are the best two options imo
"What causes these to wear out prematurely is ... poor maintenance, lack of oil changes, or IT HAS ROVER STAMPED ON IT" LOL
Hi, I have a tappet noise when sitting in traffic, not all the time just now and then, I was told to run an engine flush, does this need doing now or at next oil change? The car is a diesel Renault Clio (96,000 miles) and I play on the side of caution and always change my oil every 5k, its a manual as like most in the UK many Thanks Ian
sandydogy diesel us tricky, they are nosie on good day. May be related to fuel issue as well is diesels aren't running right they knock loud as well. Diesel oil geta very dirty and builds Sticktion.. Try a Sticktion reducer next oil change. Hotshots secret works well
In addition to loose heat shield a noise might be loose manifold because the bolts attaching the manifold to engine have sheared.
Don't care what you add it ain't fixing rod knock
Agreed. Best way to avoid bearing and valve gear issues is to use oil that is manufacturer approved. Far more to it that simply SAE viscosity.
Wow, very informative. Nice work dude
I was tempted to thumbs down 👎this video because of the lack of dancing at the end but if you can assure me it'll be back in the next one I'll thumbs up 👍
Thanks a lot for the information my 2007 Infiniti m45 has been setting for a while, I have crunk the car and heard a noise from now from looking at this video my lifters thanks I will be replacing the catalytic converters soon & I think I just need to drive the car thank you much you stopped my worries.