I enjoy your content. I recently purchased the 2022 KLR adventure and with your recommendations I went ahead and put on the Rox risers and pegs. I have my Dohicky ready for install and I agree with you on the spring situation
the gen 3's have a slightly longer pull spring and the chain guide was updated, which was where most of the slack came from. What he did was perfect and I bet he never had anymore issues. Some of the gen 2's had better guide material than others, but him changing the bracket or whatever you call it and a spring that has more pull on it was excellent. I have a 22 and maybe after 15k I might peek in and see, but many KLR's with very high miles and no issues. The chain would have to get some serious slack in it for him to ever have any issues and good oil changes will help protect against that.
My KLR650 is a 2008 model, im also the 3rd owner. my KLR is just over 25000 km now and im doing the upgrade this coming Saturday. this video really helped me out.
oh, good stuff! you may get in there and find it done. Tim two wheels does an excellent step by step on his channel if you get stuck. Cheers and good luck!
I ended up doing the same as you....Once I opened it up I opted for a shorter extension spring rather than the torsion thing-ma-jig. My factory spring was not providing any tension but not loose at 12,000km's when I changed mine. Great videos. All the best.
I had the Eagle Mike Doohickey installed 0n my 2011 KLR at 20,972 km.s with the torsion spring and obviously have had no problems with "rattling." The springs are doing exactly the same job but in a different way, the torsion spring being superior.
Winters are long here so it doesn't bother me to keep an eye on it ;) so far it has loads of adjustment left. What I did isn't an option now as the kit only comes with the torsion. Cheers!
Either option is clearly superior to the stock set-up but it is news to me that Eagle Mike no longer offers tension springs. My solution to the KLR's lack of power was to buy a KTM 790. The price has just been released; 11,499.99 CDN! I put a deposit on mine in June without knowing what the price would ultimately be and I'm glad I did. Mine will be the third in the province and the first black one, ALL the first ones are spoken for. I'm keeping my KLR because I've corrected most of its flaws and it is a pure joy to ride. Won't be getting the KTM until November, so far. Boo! They keep pushing back the release date and when I asked my dealer the price of the initial service they couldn"t tell me and said that their mechanics wouldn't be trained on the model until mid October. WTF? These things have been available in Europe since last year and the price of parts and service should be thoroughly priced and understood by now. As much as I love my KLR I can't wait for a machine that's 75 pounds lighter and has triple the horse power.
Hi Mason, Thanks for this Doohickey video. I bought a 2nd-hand, 2010 KLR650 last year (2017) and as there was no service log with it, I've been working through the bike bit by bit. The Doohickey is an item i must look at and I liked your solution. Looks like I missed the boat if they no longer provide an 'ordinary' spring.....Didn't want to drill the casing, but depending on what I find, I may have no other option. Regards from S Africa Clive
@@masonsadv Hi Mason just watched your video on cleaning carb main jet and needle , I just purchased a used KLR not to many miles 5000 a 2013 and noticed no visible inline filter is there a filter inside the rubber fuel line ? I just ordered some 1/4" fuel line and some inline filter waiting on it to get here, did not want to take bike to far it it doesn't have any kind of fuel filter.
That's good to hear. There is no way to know if it has been done without pulling off the case but I did mine before 10k so maybe its done. if not, other than some excessive chain noise from the case, I dont think there is any warning until the timing chain slips or comes off and it's possible that will never happen. it's also possible that it will happen and that's why I did mine. each to their own :) Cheers!
You won’t even hear that piece rattle, the Eagle Mike spring has a lot more adjustment range and more tension. My bracket broke apart at 7000 miles which would be 11286 km for Canadians. Then I put in the torsion spring.
What year is your bike? I think he did a great job and shouldn't have any issues. I have a 22 KLR and don't intend on replacing it anytime some. I've seen people replacing them as soon as they buy the gen 3 new and that is so ridiculous.
@@eminiscalperpro9729 if you watch Eagle Mike with Ian from Big Rock Moto on RUclips, nothing has changed on the Gen 3 doohickey, it’s still a bad stock design. I’d link that video here but RUclips won’t allow links. I wish I had done mine before it broke. My bracket the stock spring was attached to broke and was chewed up by the tensioner chain and pieces fell in the oil sump. I just pulled off the right cover this year. The oil path has a screen before the oil pump. This screen had a 1/4 x 1/4 inch piece of that spring bracket in it. After the pump then is your oil filter. Eagle Mike says you have about 5,000 miles before it can happen. Like I said mine went at 7,000 miles. I bought the bike with 1000 miles on it. I was planning on changing it around 10,000 miles. This was before the Eagle Mike video came out. My bike is a 2014.5 model.
I was the 3rd owner of mine. And the bike had 16k miles on it when I did the upgrade. But I did use the upgrade spring My factory spring had about as much as yours had on it. maybe a little less And Ya there is a little noise from that arm.
Yeah that seems to be the end of the OEM spring. 7000 miles 12000kms. Thanks for weighing in, great to hear what others are finding in there :) Cheers!
great tip on the "no oil" tag. I am horribly forgetful. Like, REALLY bad. So when I do a project like that, I tape the key to a bottle of engine oil. LOL I heard much mentioned about the KLR's doohickey, but was never sure exactly what it was or what it did. Nice you got the upgrade in. :-)
Yeah, It's sad when you can't trust yourself. haha. The poor old Doohickey gets a bad rap but the newer ones are much better and should see the average rider through 12-15k before replacing. Luckily, the Eagle mike replacement is bullet proof and once it's done, your done :) Thanks Coyote.
On the 2nd Gen bikes the adjuster is much better than the gen 1 adjuster so yes, the main issue for the Gen 2 is the spring but upgrading the adjuster while your in there just makes sense and the replacement give more adjustment over time than the OEM did. Hope that helps, Cheers!
Masons ADV That is not what the shop manual says, your 3 engine counter weights are hanging on the chain and affecting your adjustment of the counter weight chain just for your information. This could affect some of the weaker springs
My manual doesn't list that in the steps but it stands to reason that the ballancer weights could be holding tension on the chain if they are not hanging in a neutral position. Interesting.
I was hoping for a follow up video. Did you later go back into the doohickey and see any change in its condition? Is the EM spring superior to the stock so it's never again an issue? That sort of thing.....
Right, I hope to go back in this winter when things settle down here a bit because I'm curious too. The replacement Doo will be fine but I would like to lay eyes on the spring and also check the wearable sliders in there. Cheers!
Well done! Had you worked on bikes before? I'm a complete Noob but part the reason I bought this bike was to learn wrenching. I'm going to do the doo next winter but I need to check the valves soon. I lit a candle for the frogs at mass. And one more question, you did all your editing and graphics and closing links on Movie Maker??? Enjoyd as always Mason!
Oh, Thanks Scratch. I'm out of candles....and frogs :P Yes I have been wrenching on bikes off and on for 30+ years lol. Wow. I'm not sure I wanted to do the math on that :/ The beauty of the KLR is it's simplicity and the huge amount of support on line. Checking the valves is a snap and now i can do it in under 40 mins (longer if you need to order shims) It seems intimidating at first but read up on the project and take your time and you will enjoy it :) I do my editing on Sony movie studio platinum 12. Thanks Scratch!
Masons ADV . if you ride like me and bottom out on rocks it gets real hard to get the valve cover out. lol. I still cant kill my klr. 2 swingarms, handlebars, top end. cracked wheels!
Oh, I totally get it :) It certainly doesn't require that much forward relief unless its possible to remove the chain without removing the tensioner by moving it forward. Just not sure why that would be necessary. My point about it being centred was just referring to the fact that it had more available tension left than the OEM. Cheers!
I wasn't calling you out for centering it at all. That seems to be its happy place on every install video I've seen (I've watched more of them than I ever needed to lol) and every time I wonder if there's some point to the totally unused part of the doohickey. LoL Thanks for all the great videos sir!
Sorry for the lack on knowledge on this subject. What is the point of upgrading this spring? I have a 2008 KLR with 38,000 miles. Should I do this mod? And more importantly, WHY do I need to do it?
Hey Thomas, The short version is that the OEM spring and adjuster combination doesn't allow for much adjustment and will go slack allowing the balancer chain to lose tension and cause damage inside the case. Changing to the Eagle Mike doohickey and spring allows for much more adjustment as you pile on those miles :) Keep in mind it's all for nothing if you don't adjust your tensioner manually according to the manual intervals. Hope that helps.
+Schmidt McGready my book says first adjust at 800km then every 5000 kms thats 3000 miles ish. You can search the forums to see what the guys there say too.
My17A I have read that it was updated around 2013. I have a 2017 as well and can confirm, no notes in the manual to indicate this is necessary so early on.
I have a 2016 klr650. It looks like the factory has improved the tensioner and balance shaft chain enough to not require a doohicky change. I haven't looked into the paperwork much yet, is that tension adjustment a maintenance item or is it a factory preset and forget it thing? Thanks for the video.
Yes I think they are much better than they were but the spring is still considered a potential weak point i believe. The EM Doohickey fits so much nicer than the oem (less slack) That I decided to change it anyway. The balancer chain tension is a maintenance item and the manual calls for adjustment every 7500 miles 12000 kms. Thanks for watching!
I'm not an expert on the issue, but do you think that the chain stretches that significantly in 12,000 km's that it runs out of adjustment? It *seems* that people are opening up their bikes and finding that there is not much adjustment left, however perhaps that is the way they come from the factory and to take up the chain stretch, a significant amount of adjustment is not needed? Anywho, mine is making some pretty slappy chain noises, especially at start up. Time to crack it open tomorrow and see whats up. It's down for the winter so I think I will investigate before ordering the parts. Cam chain or balancer chain I suppose. I haven't made up my mind on this bike. Its hard to argue with its capabilities for the price, but there seems to be some pretty lazy engineering (and assembly) issues that affect the bike.
@@rahgahnah ,The real fault was Kawasaki not using a torsion spring in the first place, the spring and post system is crude and prone to coming apart, and accelerates the chain wear.
Yes it is! It's a Blue point flash light (Snap-on) So its not cheap but it is usb chargeable and that makes it great for the bike :) Any snap-on dealer should carry it but here is the link. Cheers! store.snapon.com/Flashlights-Blue-Point-174--Penlight-Rechargeable-High-Output-7-LED-Blue-Point-reg--P889892.aspx
The ballancer is much stronger than the old doohickeys but the spring is still too weak imo. I was happy I did mine after opening it up. I think it's still a good call.
So in case I missed it, have you done the torsion spring or still on the OEM? I just bought a 2018 in Ottawa last Aug and have 3500 kms. I have all the doohickey stuff (Eagle Mike Doohickey and torsion Spring, Rotor Bolt etc...) to change it out, but I think I will wait until around 15000 kms which should be around sometime next August.
Hey Mason, I have a 2012 model, with 9,500KM. I have not yet touched the adjusting bolt. How many times did you adjust yours in the 7000KM? I plan on buying the eagle Mike doo kit soon in the future. I don't find the torsion spring necessary, if you have the correct coil spring. I'm guessing I should get 1 or 2 adjustments from mine, after seeing your video. I don't really believe Kawasaki let this problem continue to the end. The last KLR's will be the 2018. Kawasaki is ceasing production of the KLR as we know it.
As Confucius says: don't forget to open a window while warming the bike indoor... otherwise you will start to see strange things... and never eat yellow snow... :-) nice one... thx!!!
I am just about to replace my doohickey and was thinking that I might follow suit with the shorter spring and not the torsion spring. Where did you get your spring? Love the videos.
+Ron Timber hey Ron. The springs came from Eagle mike and there are 2 in the kit both different sizes. I went with the shortest one to give me the most adjustment. Thanks for watching and I hope that helped. Cheers.
Masons ADV I just got my kit today and they weren't in it. I checked on his website and they are clearly in the photo with the doohickey. I guess I'll fire off an email and see what can be done. Thanks for the help.
I exchanged emails with Eagle Mike and he said that he only sells the torsion spring now and that there shouldn't be any noise... I guess I'll find out.
@@nobodyspecial9035 , I have a 2013, it won't make it mate, you risk blowing the motor at any stage, as your spring is possibly snapped, so the guides chew out, and the chain is shot and can come off.
Why don't people just change the chain? The chain when the engine is in top dead center has silver links and dots on the sprockets that must lineup, the original spring is the indicator of your chain lifespan which is about 8000mi, if you use the upgrade spring you will use your chain beyond it's service life and the sprockets will suffer. The chain and chain guilds can run you about $300 every 8000mi. The chain will stretch faster if you ride fast 70~80mph, keep it at 45~55 and your chain will make it to 8000mi, thats why these bikes are inexpensive and known as "GIRL BIKES", if you want a mans bike get a Triumph Tiger 1200.
I enjoy your content. I recently purchased the 2022 KLR adventure and with your recommendations I went ahead and put on the Rox risers and pegs. I have my Dohicky ready for install and I agree with you on the spring situation
the gen 3's have a slightly longer pull spring and the chain guide was updated, which was where most of the slack came from. What he did was perfect and I bet he never had anymore issues. Some of the gen 2's had better guide material than others, but him changing the bracket or whatever you call it and a spring that has more pull on it was excellent. I have a 22 and maybe after 15k I might peek in and see, but many KLR's with very high miles and no issues. The chain would have to get some serious slack in it for him to ever have any issues and good oil changes will help protect against that.
My KLR650 is a 2008 model, im also the 3rd owner. my KLR is just over 25000 km now and im doing the upgrade this coming Saturday. this video really helped me out.
oh, good stuff! you may get in there and find it done. Tim two wheels does an excellent step by step on his channel if you get stuck. Cheers and good luck!
I ended up doing the same as you....Once I opened it up I opted for a shorter extension spring rather than the torsion thing-ma-jig. My factory spring was not providing any tension but not loose at 12,000km's when I changed mine. Great videos. All the best.
ah, good to know. I thought I could have went to around the 12k with mine as well. Maybe even a bit further. Thanks Man. Cheers!
I had the Eagle Mike Doohickey installed 0n my 2011 KLR at 20,972 km.s with the torsion spring and obviously have had no problems with "rattling." The springs are doing exactly the same job but in a different way, the torsion spring being superior.
Winters are long here so it doesn't bother me to keep an eye on it ;) so far it has loads of adjustment left. What I did isn't an option now as the kit only comes with the torsion. Cheers!
Either option is clearly superior to the stock set-up but it is news to me that Eagle Mike no longer offers tension springs. My solution to the KLR's lack of power was to buy a KTM 790. The price has just been released; 11,499.99 CDN! I put a deposit on mine in June without knowing what the price would ultimately be and I'm glad I did. Mine will be the third in the province and the first black one, ALL the first ones are spoken for. I'm keeping my KLR because I've corrected most of its flaws and it is a pure joy to ride. Won't be getting the KTM until November, so far. Boo! They keep pushing back the release date and when I asked my dealer the price of the initial service they couldn"t tell me and said that their mechanics wouldn't be trained on the model until mid October. WTF? These things have been available in Europe since last year and the price of parts and service should be thoroughly priced and understood by now. As much as I love my KLR I can't wait for a machine that's 75 pounds lighter and has triple the horse power.
Nice! Congrats on the new ride! Finally, some interesting machines being rolled out for the adventure market :) Cheers!
Hi Mason,
Thanks for this Doohickey video.
I bought a 2nd-hand, 2010 KLR650 last year (2017) and as there was no service log with it, I've been working through the bike bit by bit.
The Doohickey is an item i must look at and I liked your solution.
Looks like I missed the boat if they no longer provide an 'ordinary' spring.....Didn't want to drill the casing, but depending on what I find, I may have no other option.
Regards from S Africa
Clive
@@clivegreenall309 , there's no risk in drilling the inner case it's a 1mm hole at 5 o'clock, that doesn't weaken the part.
Because of your video I did the same thing. I used the EM coil spring instead. Thanks!
Awesome. It's good peace of mind :)
I would also stick with the linear spring if I was undergoing this procedure.
Nice! Makes me want to get out there and have a look. Greetings from Alaska.
Hello back from Ontario! Having a peek is a good idea ;) Cheers
Just did mine 2013 with 5000 on it when I purchased it still looked ok, did the torsion spring route.
Nice Scott. Good to have it done :) Cheers!
@@masonsadv Hi Mason just watched your video on cleaning carb main jet and needle , I just purchased a used KLR not to many miles 5000 a 2013 and noticed no visible inline filter is there a filter inside the rubber fuel line ? I just ordered some 1/4" fuel line and some inline filter waiting on it to get here, did not want to take bike to far it it doesn't have any kind of fuel filter.
@@ADVScott342 Maybe a bit late, but yes, there is a filter within the fuel line (stock)...
@@sasquatchhillbilly Thanks for the reply it's nice to know as I haven't changed it out yet👍
When you torque the dohicky won't it keep it from adjusting?
I own a 92' KLR 650 and when i bought it it had 10k it currently has 30k and i have not done this "doohickey" mod. Still running strong.
That's good to hear. There is no way to know if it has been done without pulling off the case but I did mine before 10k so maybe its done. if not, other than some excessive chain noise from the case, I dont think there is any warning until the timing chain slips or comes off and it's possible that will never happen. it's also possible that it will happen and that's why I did mine. each to their own :) Cheers!
2nd gen KLR doohickey looks way stronger than the gen 1, does it really need replaced?
You won’t even hear that piece rattle, the Eagle Mike spring has a lot more adjustment range and more tension. My bracket broke apart at 7000 miles which would be 11286 km for Canadians. Then I put in the torsion spring.
What year is your bike? I think he did a great job and shouldn't have any issues. I have a 22 KLR and don't intend on replacing it anytime some. I've seen people replacing them as soon as they buy the gen 3 new and that is so ridiculous.
@@eminiscalperpro9729 if you watch Eagle Mike with Ian from Big Rock Moto on RUclips, nothing has changed on the Gen 3 doohickey, it’s still a bad stock design. I’d link that video here but RUclips won’t allow links. I wish I had done mine before it broke. My bracket the stock spring was attached to broke and was chewed up by the tensioner chain and pieces fell in the oil sump. I just pulled off the right cover this year. The oil path has a screen before the oil pump. This screen had a 1/4 x 1/4 inch piece of that spring bracket in it. After the pump then is your oil filter. Eagle Mike says you have about 5,000 miles before it can happen. Like I said mine went at 7,000 miles. I bought the bike with 1000 miles on it. I was planning on changing it around 10,000 miles. This was before the Eagle Mike video came out. My bike is a 2014.5 model.
Mason I used the same spring you did i didn't like the bracket rattling either.
Cheers Quack :)
What the thought of using both coil and torsion spring at the same time????????
Thanks for the video. When I ever have to do mine I refer back to your video..
Cheers Zac, thanks for watching.
Ever since I bought a headband flashlight, my many hand held lights don't get much use. I you don't have one give one a try, you will be hooked.
Agreed Dom. Very handy. I have one in the tail bag but filming these means I already have a camera strapped to my head ;) Cheers man!
I was the 3rd owner of mine. And the bike had 16k miles on it when I did the upgrade. But I did use the upgrade spring My factory spring had about as much as yours had on it. maybe a little less And Ya there is a little noise from that arm.
I had zero tension in mine at 7k miles. Glad I did the EM torsion spring.
Yeah that seems to be the end of the OEM spring. 7000 miles 12000kms. Thanks for weighing in, great to hear what others are finding in there :) Cheers!
great tip on the "no oil" tag. I am horribly forgetful. Like, REALLY bad. So when I do a project like that, I tape the key to a bottle of engine oil. LOL
I heard much mentioned about the KLR's doohickey, but was never sure exactly what it was or what it did. Nice you got the upgrade in. :-)
Yeah, It's sad when you can't trust yourself. haha. The poor old Doohickey gets a bad rap but the newer ones are much better and should see the average rider through 12-15k before replacing. Luckily, the Eagle mike replacement is bullet proof and once it's done, your done :) Thanks Coyote.
Hi Mason, is this job for a novice achievable without wrecking the motor? Hw many mistakes can be make? Cheers Andrew
I just got a 2014, it only has 600 miles, could I wait a little while before i do thjs job or does it has to be done as soon as possible?
Varying reports on that but I did mine at 12k kms and I'm glad i did ;)
Hi! What's happen if the doohickey system broken while i roll? Im apologize for my English, I speak in Spanish! Greetings!
Hello! Well, the biggest problem is if the spring breaks it can get up into the chain, chewed up, and bits then enter the oil system. Hope that helps.
I thought the issue was the spring breaking? Now I am confused.
On the 2nd Gen bikes the adjuster is much better than the gen 1 adjuster so yes, the main issue for the Gen 2 is the spring but upgrading the adjuster while your in there just makes sense and the replacement give more adjustment over time than the OEM did. Hope that helps, Cheers!
I think you should I had it at top dead centre before adjusting the Doohickey
No, that has no bearing on the adjustment. That's for checking the valves. Cheers.
Masons ADV That is not what the shop manual says, your 3 engine counter weights are hanging on the chain and affecting your adjustment of the counter weight chain just for your information. This could affect some of the weaker springs
Well there you go! Nice. I'll look into that. Thanks for bringing that to my attention.
My manual doesn't list that in the steps but it stands to reason that the ballancer weights could be holding tension on the chain if they are not hanging in a neutral position. Interesting.
I was hoping for a follow up video. Did you later go back into the doohickey and see any change in its condition? Is the EM spring superior to the stock so it's never again an issue? That sort of thing.....
Right, I hope to go back in this winter when things settle down here a bit because I'm curious too. The replacement Doo will be fine but I would like to lay eyes on the spring and also check the wearable sliders in there. Cheers!
Well done! Had you worked on bikes before? I'm a complete Noob but part the reason I bought this bike was to learn wrenching. I'm going to do the doo next winter but I need to check the valves soon. I lit a candle for the frogs at mass. And one more question, you did all your editing and graphics and closing links on Movie Maker??? Enjoyd as always Mason!
Dammit.... "enjoyed"...
Oh, Thanks Scratch. I'm out of candles....and frogs :P Yes I have been wrenching on bikes off and on for 30+ years lol. Wow. I'm not sure I wanted to do the math on that :/ The beauty of the KLR is it's simplicity and the huge amount of support on line. Checking the valves is a snap and now i can do it in under 40 mins (longer if you need to order shims) It seems intimidating at first but read up on the project and take your time and you will enjoy it :)
I do my editing on Sony movie studio platinum 12. Thanks Scratch!
Masons ADV . if you ride like me and bottom out on rocks it gets real hard to get the valve cover out. lol. I still cant kill my klr. 2 swingarms, handlebars, top end. cracked wheels!
RidemotoEveryday haha is that why im struggling to get the valve cover off now?? lol. I thought it was easier last time i did the valves :D
Masons ADV lol probly. my lower frame tubes are flat and i had to heat and pull down to remove clutch cover.😎
im getting a 500 this summer finally.
What's the point of the doohickey bolt being right in the center if it only gets adjusted in one direction?
You would wonder huh? :D
I wasn't being snarky, by the way. I'm genuinely curious. It doesn't seem to make a whole lot of sense. LoL
Oh, I totally get it :) It certainly doesn't require that much forward relief unless its possible to remove the chain without removing the tensioner by moving it forward. Just not sure why that would be necessary. My point about it being centred was just referring to the fact that it had more available tension left than the OEM. Cheers!
I wasn't calling you out for centering it at all. That seems to be its happy place on every install video I've seen (I've watched more of them than I ever needed to lol) and every time I wonder if there's some point to the totally unused part of the doohickey. LoL Thanks for all the great videos sir!
I didn't take it that way at all ;) it is a bit goofy for sure :D Thanks for watching! Cheers :)
so have you put in the different spring or are you still rolling with this style?
Back when I did this mod the kit came with an upgraded spring and the coil spring. I went with the traditional upgraded spring at the time.
What brand is that lift you use? Is it one of the ones that Princess Auto has? Great videos :)
It's similar. I was give that lift by Old Mason so I'm not sure where it came from 😄
Sorry for the lack on knowledge on this subject. What is the point of upgrading this spring? I have a 2008 KLR with 38,000 miles. Should I do this mod? And more importantly, WHY do I need to do it?
Hey Thomas, The short version is that the OEM spring and adjuster combination doesn't allow for much adjustment and will go slack allowing the balancer chain to lose tension and cause damage inside the case. Changing to the Eagle Mike doohickey and spring allows for much more adjustment as you pile on those miles :) Keep in mind it's all for nothing if you don't adjust your tensioner manually according to the manual intervals. Hope that helps.
Seams to me the real problem is a weak chain that stretches too fast. The cure would be a better chain?
when are you supposed to adjust the lever tensioner? every oil change? every x miles, etc??
+Schmidt McGready my book says first adjust at 800km then every 5000 kms thats 3000 miles ish. You can search the forums to see what the guys there say too.
Have they made a change for the newer ones? I just bought a 2017 and the book says 1st adj at 12000 kms.
My17A I have read that it was updated around 2013. I have a 2017 as well and can confirm, no notes in the manual to indicate this is necessary so early on.
I have a 2016 klr650. It looks like the factory has improved the tensioner and balance shaft chain enough to not require a doohicky change. I haven't looked into the paperwork much yet, is that tension adjustment a maintenance item or is it a factory preset and forget it thing? Thanks for the video.
Yes I think they are much better than they were but the spring is still considered a potential weak point i believe. The EM Doohickey fits so much nicer than the oem (less slack) That I decided to change it anyway. The balancer chain tension is a maintenance item and the manual calls for adjustment every 7500 miles 12000 kms. Thanks for watching!
I'm not an expert on the issue, but do you think that the chain stretches that significantly in 12,000 km's that it runs out of adjustment? It *seems* that people are opening up their bikes and finding that there is not much adjustment left, however perhaps that is the way they come from the factory and to take up the chain stretch, a significant amount of adjustment is not needed?
Anywho, mine is making some pretty slappy chain noises, especially at start up. Time to crack it open tomorrow and see whats up. It's down for the winter so I think I will investigate before ordering the parts. Cam chain or balancer chain I suppose.
I haven't made up my mind on this bike. Its hard to argue with its capabilities for the price, but there seems to be some pretty lazy engineering (and assembly) issues that affect the bike.
@@rahgahnah ,The real fault was Kawasaki not using a torsion spring in the first place, the spring and post system is crude and prone to coming apart, and accelerates the chain wear.
That flashlight you are using is badass. Any idea where I might find one at (other than online)?
Yes it is! It's a Blue point flash light (Snap-on) So its not cheap but it is usb chargeable and that makes it great for the bike :) Any snap-on dealer should carry it but here is the link. Cheers!
store.snapon.com/Flashlights-Blue-Point-174--Penlight-Rechargeable-High-Output-7-LED-Blue-Point-reg--P889892.aspx
What type of grease is used and why on the Fly Wheel Puller?
Any grease will work, it stops the puller threads from binding is all.
Thanks Masons ADV ! My new to me 2010 is going under the knife on Monday to fix a few Kawasaki engineering mess ups!!
Thanks again
Ah, right. Well good luck in there :)
Does this procedure need to be done to the newer KLRs (2017/2018) or did they fix the problem?
Thanks
The ballancer is much stronger than the old doohickeys but the spring is still too weak imo. I was happy I did mine after opening it up. I think it's still a good call.
So in case I missed it, have you done the torsion spring or still on the OEM? I just bought a 2018 in Ottawa last Aug and have 3500 kms. I have all the doohickey stuff (Eagle Mike Doohickey and torsion Spring, Rotor Bolt etc...) to change it out, but I think I will wait until around 15000 kms which should be around sometime next August.
Yes I did the spring at the same time. I think I was around 12000 when I did mine and the spring still had tension but was nearing the end.
Ok thanx
great video keep them going!
Cheers :)
Hey Mason, I have a 2012 model, with 9,500KM. I have not yet touched the adjusting bolt. How many times did you adjust yours in the 7000KM? I plan on buying the eagle Mike doo kit soon in the future. I don't find the torsion spring necessary, if you have the correct coil spring.
I'm guessing I should get 1 or 2 adjustments from mine, after seeing your video.
I don't really believe Kawasaki let this problem continue to the end.
The last KLR's will be the 2018. Kawasaki is ceasing production of the KLR as we know it.
I adjust mine every oil change. That way it becomes habit so I don't forget ;) Cheers!
As Confucius says: don't forget to open a window while warming the bike indoor... otherwise you will start to see strange things... and never eat yellow snow... :-) nice one... thx!!!
too right, Also, Confucius say, two wrongs not make right, but two rights make U-turn. Cheers Chris :)
Very professional job there Mr Mason! Heck, I just kicked my klr over in the front yard and had my way with her when replacing mine lol!
+Twistygrip haha Wouldn't expect any different!! :D thanks Twisty!
I am now worried about RideAMAP riding with you. Stay safe
Tankerman Hahaha!
+Tankerman hahaha
great video... Mine has 5200 miles on her and I have been thinking about this same mod.
Yeah, I think it's a good idea to do it. At least check the spring but once your there you may as well do the mod. Cheers :)
no update video?
Well everything has been fine going forward. Not much else to report. Was there something specific you were wondering about?
Mainly the doohickey spring u put on. Have u changed it to the eagle Mike spring? the round one
What kind of oil you using
Rotella 15W-40 I have it on hand for the trucks so it's easy ;) Keeping it changed regularly is more important than the brand in a KLR. Cheers!
I am just about to replace my doohickey and was thinking that I might follow suit with the shorter spring and not the torsion spring. Where did you get your spring? Love the videos.
+Ron Timber hey Ron. The springs came from Eagle mike and there are 2 in the kit both different sizes. I went with the shortest one to give me the most adjustment. Thanks for watching and I hope that helped. Cheers.
Masons ADV I just got my kit today and they weren't in it. I checked on his website and they are clearly in the photo with the doohickey. I guess I'll fire off an email and see what can be done. Thanks for the help.
Yeah, good call. I can't remember if I ordered them separately.
I exchanged emails with Eagle Mike and he said that he only sells the torsion spring now and that there shouldn't be any noise... I guess I'll find out.
hmm, that's interesting. good to know, Thanks!
The new spring you put in did that come in the kit or was that the old one back on?
+Ontario ADV It was one of Eagle mikes that came in the kit.
Awesome thanks. I'm at 12,000km but I don't really want to do anything until warranty is up
+Ontario ADV if your is like mine, you will be fine until after warranty. I still had quite a bit of spring left
My plan is to leave it until next winter and I only adjust it when I know I would have time to get parts and replace if needed
Mine was toast when i replaced at 10k. 13' model year.
+RidemotoEveryday yeah that seems to be in line with other findings. Glad its done :) thanks man!
My 13’ has gone 32,000+ hard miles without an adjustment or replacement. Fingers crossed it goes another 32,000 w/o issue.
@@nobodyspecial9035 , I have a 2013, it won't make it mate, you risk blowing the motor at any stage, as your spring is possibly snapped, so the guides chew out, and the chain is shot and can come off.
mal62 I’ve been looking at making the upgrade to the Eagle Mike more since this thread. Thanks for the encouragement to be patient and get it done!
mal62 ordered the eagle mike kit today, thanks mate!
Great video !
Thanks!! Cheers.
i just ziptie my key to the mirror or the hand guards to remind myself not to start it.
Nice!, anything to remind yourself! :) Starting a bike without oil is a real fear of mine especially as I get older lol. Cheers!
Thanks for the video
👍 Cheers!
Good job. I attend to well if I am already here I'll just replace it kind of fella. Stay safe
+Tankerman well thats the thing :D it takes as long to check it as it does to change it hahaha. Thanks Tank!
So, you spent $180 on a kit just to use a $2 spring? Now you are thinking!
And the upgraded Eagle Mike Doohickey
lol the tooth brush! I thought I was the only one that did that. gotta have a clean bike!
hehe yep. best thing for the chain!
Alwase remove the smoo from the sprocket.
Job well done :
Thanks man! I enjoyed it. Cheers
Why don't people just change the chain? The chain when the engine is in top dead center has silver links and dots on the sprockets that must lineup, the original spring is the indicator of your chain lifespan which is about 8000mi, if you use the upgrade spring you will use your chain beyond it's service life and the sprockets will suffer. The chain and chain guilds can run you about $300 every 8000mi. The chain will stretch faster if you ride fast 70~80mph, keep it at 45~55 and your chain will make it to 8000mi, thats why these bikes are inexpensive and known as "GIRL BIKES", if you want a mans bike get a Triumph Tiger 1200.
but your's a BMW ?
Look closer. The symbol is BMW but the letters spell KLR. It's a gag sticker.