I recently got a Citizen C32 and am learning the machine. How do you set the z or longitudinal values for the tools? On your offsets page it showed that all of those values were straight zeros. Any input would be great.
What kind of tool are you referring to? A live tool? On an L32 the distance from machine zero to the centerline of the a live tool is 15MM (.5905) You can use a G50 shift in the program to move the machine zero point to that position so you don't have to have large Z offsets in the machine. After you call the tool put a G50 W-.590 then do all of your work then a the end of the tool do a G50 W.590. That will put Z zero back a the default position. ALWAYS remember to move the zero back after you've moved it. G50's will accumulate. Meaning that if you shift it and forget to put it back the next G50 you do will be added on top of the last G50 you used. You can imagine how bad things can happen if you don't shift Z back to it's home position. You can use this on left handed part off tools as well.
The first thing you do is move your material out of the cutting zone. Step two is to use man set to position your tool in the setting position. Then you bring the material out into the cutting zone. Next place the tool on the material and tighten the clamps. When doing a cut off it does not matter if you are on core, diameter of longitude. The cycle is the same. Going to position point first is just wasted time it doesn't matter if it's a turning tool or live tool. If you use the G.Pt Return function the gang slide will move up in X to the top of it's travel. I don't like coming down in top of material with a live tool. It's a good way to chip an end mill.
Too much work to center a tool. I center 1st in manual by manual moving the tool it touches the side of the bar and then add 4 thousands always perfect
instead of judging the turning tip, you can offset the CORE Value by -0.7mm on purpose, cut off slowly and take your calipers to measure the defined turning tip. Heads up: check your cut-off end position in mcData. if it's -0.5mm and your tool edge radius is 0.8mm, you will always see a turning tip. Temporarly adjust the cut-off end position and andjust for radii-value (0.8mm tool radius = at least -1.6mm cut-off end pos) second, depending on the material and tool, adjust cut off speed if you are using the cut-off softkey - bc it will take the values from MCdata
when setting up endmills or cross tools in general, test the tool path of the tool. depending on the cincom-model you are very close to the x-axis end stroke with short tools. Test your tool travel right when setting up, so you won't get an overtravel alarm when handJOGing the program later :-) (cross drills are often programmed to x-15.0mm. Eyeball this distance without hitting the overtravel alarm)
Setting up your tools on material stock is very inefficient and not precise in my opinion especially finding the center on Core setting. Instead using inspection pin of the size of the material and a magnet which helps moving pin in and out will make your setup much faster and more precise.
Here is a little instruction if you are interested. 1. Pull the stock out of the Guide bush, 2. Insert the inspection Pin into the guide bush (I have sacrificial set of setup pins for all stock diameters I'm running on that machine), 3. Bring your tool on Dia/Core, 4. Using small magnet pull out your Inspection pin from the Guide bush and feel if you are rubbing it against the cutting edge of the tool by fine adjusting your Dia/Core. You should feel a little resistance. Don't forget to push the Pin into Guide bush away from the tool each time when switching from Dia to Core and back to avoid collision.
@@yurialekseyko7335 ahh I see now. But on DIA it doesn't have to be too precise. You have to offset the tool anyways after the first run, don't you? And for CORE, I find the facing-off as shown in the video the most precise, as you can measure the turning pin with a caliper, offset it and face-off again to check the face.
The more precise you are on Dia setting the more precise you are on the Core, these are related. With my method I never have to face off the material and I'm always on center with few tenth off the target diameter or non. My point is fast, precise, and efficient method. Same method I'm using to find center for cross drill/e-mill, face drill, etc. What if you are working with small diameters like 1mm or so? If you too far off then you in trouble.
@@yurialekseyko7335hey man can you explain your method once more? For whatever reason it's not clicking when you mention the magnet in the guide bushing part.
![How To Change Over a Citizen L32 Swiss Lathe [Start to Finish]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ktUJzX2Ajzk/mqdefault.jpg)
![How To Change Over a Citizen L32 Swiss Lathe [Start to Finish]](/img/tr.png)
That intro is great
Great video I wish you showed how to do a core on a tool such as a threading insert or maybe a 55 ° profile turning
Great suggestion! We can add it to the shoot list for another video.
Hii, this video is very helpful for me because recently i am run this machine citizen L12X
Glad it helped
I recently got a Citizen C32 and am learning the machine. How do you set the z or longitudinal values for the tools? On your offsets page it showed that all of those values were straight zeros. Any input would be great.
I will ask the team and get back with you.
What kind of tool are you referring to? A live tool? On an L32 the distance from machine zero to the centerline of the a live tool is 15MM (.5905) You can use a G50 shift in the program to move the machine zero point to that position so you don't have to have large Z offsets in the machine. After you call the tool put a G50 W-.590 then do all of your work then a the end of the tool do a G50 W.590. That will put Z zero back a the default position. ALWAYS remember to move the zero back after you've moved it. G50's will accumulate. Meaning that if you shift it and forget to put it back the next G50 you do will be added on top of the last G50 you used. You can imagine how bad things can happen if you don't shift Z back to it's home position. You can use this on left handed part off tools as well.
The first thing you do is move your material out of the cutting zone. Step two is to use man set to position your tool in the setting position. Then you bring the material out into the cutting zone. Next place the tool on the material and tighten the clamps. When doing a cut off it does not matter if you are on core, diameter of longitude. The cycle is the same. Going to position point first is just wasted time it doesn't matter if it's a turning tool or live tool. If you use the G.Pt Return function the gang slide will move up in X to the top of it's travel.
I don't like coming down in top of material with a live tool. It's a good way to chip an end mill.
Can we get a how to set a tool on the turret video?
Just posted - check it out.
Too much work to center a tool. I center 1st in manual by manual moving the tool it touches the side of the bar and then add 4 thousands always perfect
It's still a good tutorial for us new guys lol
Hi
instead of judging the turning tip, you can offset the CORE Value by -0.7mm on purpose, cut off slowly and take your calipers to measure the defined turning tip.
Heads up: check your cut-off end position in mcData. if it's -0.5mm and your tool edge radius is 0.8mm, you will always see a turning tip. Temporarly adjust the cut-off end position and andjust for radii-value (0.8mm tool radius = at least -1.6mm cut-off end pos)
second, depending on the material and tool, adjust cut off speed if you are using the cut-off softkey - bc it will take the values from MCdata
otherwise great video
We appreciate the tips, keep them coming!
when setting up endmills or cross tools in general, test the tool path of the tool. depending on the cincom-model you are very close to the x-axis end stroke with short tools. Test your tool travel right when setting up, so you won't get an overtravel alarm when handJOGing the program later :-)
(cross drills are often programmed to x-15.0mm. Eyeball this distance without hitting the overtravel alarm)
this stupid "hold cut-off and press start" can be deactivated btw. Just hit start is so much better
How can this be disabled?
@@iowncho change bit 6497.1
How?
@@josuesalazar2307 Why was my comment removed? Anyways.. for you again:
usually it's BitSelect:6497 bit 1 to 1
Setting up your tools on material stock is very inefficient and not precise in my opinion especially finding the center on Core setting. Instead using inspection pin of the size of the material and a magnet which helps moving pin in and out will make your setup much faster and more precise.
I don't follow?
Here is a little instruction if you are interested.
1. Pull the stock out of the Guide bush, 2. Insert the inspection Pin into the guide bush (I have sacrificial set of setup pins for all stock diameters I'm running on that machine), 3. Bring your tool on Dia/Core, 4. Using small magnet pull out your Inspection pin from the Guide bush and feel if you are rubbing it against the cutting edge of the tool by fine adjusting your Dia/Core. You should feel a little resistance. Don't forget to push the Pin into Guide bush away from the tool each time when switching from Dia to Core and back to avoid collision.
@@yurialekseyko7335 ahh I see now.
But on DIA it doesn't have to be too precise. You have to offset the tool anyways after the first run, don't you?
And for CORE, I find the facing-off as shown in the video the most precise, as you can measure the turning pin with a caliper, offset it and face-off again to check the face.
The more precise you are on Dia setting the more precise you are on the Core, these are related. With my method I never have to face off the material and I'm always on center with few tenth off the target diameter or non. My point is fast, precise, and efficient method. Same method I'm using to find center for cross drill/e-mill, face drill, etc. What if you are working with small diameters like 1mm or so? If you too far off then you in trouble.
@@yurialekseyko7335hey man can you explain your method once more? For whatever reason it's not clicking when you mention the magnet in the guide bushing part.
Looking in. Bathroom stall??? Is stupid!