I have that exact knife. I haven’t used it much but, so far mine has No Rust at all. I took off the handle scales and put Vaseline on all the metal even the screws. When I draw it from the sheath you can see the Vaseline all over the blade. I live in the North Eastern USA. It’s very wet, cold and Humid here. Everything Rusts here, But as I said: So Far , no rust. If my knife were rusting like that I would: Sand off all the rust. Put vinegar or yellow mustard on that area to Force a Patina on the steel to protect it. Finally I would coat it in petroleum jelly ( Vaseline ). - keep us updated, I love videos of this knife. 👍🏻
That's exactly what you should do as soon as you receive the knife. I have like 12 high carbon steel knives. None have even a little rust. I just use standard drug store mineral oil. I should probably get something that will last a bit longer. However, it's surprising how well cheap mineral oil does the job. A waxy coating would be better for long term storage.
@@DDDYLN ,… exactly. Recently I’ve been running the blade edge thru hard “Gulf Wax” then using a thin coat of Vaseline on the rest of the blade for longer storage,… like 3-12 months and it’s been working great.
As others have pointed out, a carbon steel blade will rust. The bluing helps to prevent that but it is not absolute protection. I periodically coat my 1917 Frontier Bowie with Break Free and haven't had a problem with it. Also note that there is a rounded cut out on the bottom of the blade by the handguard so you can position your index finger forward of the handguard to get more control for delicate cutting tasks.
@@donjuanmckenzie4897 coatings and bluing helps steel prevent rust, but it is not a guarantee against rust, it only helps prevent rust if you take care of the knife properly. the same goes for stainless steel, it resists rust, but it is not rust proof, if you store it wet, especially if it's wet from salt water, it will rust, you have to do your part and keep the knife clean and dry, minimum.
UPDATE: My 1917 Frontier Bowie started rusting pretty bad, also. I did remove all the rust and I forced a Patina on the blade & guard. It looks pretty good now.
Its something that Windlass uses to keep the blade in the sheath. I get a perfect square patch of rust on just about every Windlass sword I have in that same place your knife has it.
Try to use a thick oil on your knife blades. I live in South West Louisiana here in America. High humidity. I use 3-in-One oil on all my firearms and knives. Thin oil doesn't protect as well as thicker oil due to humidity. I rub them down once a month or after every use. It should work for you also.
Yeah, you need to keep your blade oiled. Specially in England where its damp most of the time. I live in a dry climate and I don't have much of a problem with rust on my blades, but I do keep them oiled. I've also heard that Vasaline works well too.
Would like to own one made with the 1085 carbon steel, but it is difficult to know what one the sellers are carrying because they still have them specified as 1055 carbon steel in the US.
No clue how or why your knife rusted where it did. Since it has a nice coat of Cold Steels black paint on it. Like others have said it is a high carbon steel blade so needs to be taken care of. When I got mine the sheath was so tight I sprayed WD-40 into it let it soak then just kept putting the knife in and drawing it. Also, the WD-40 has coated the knife. As for using this knife to chap and split wood, change the edge grind to a 24 degree flat grind on each side and you will notice a big difference ih how it chops and splits wood. Oh and the edge will hold up much better.
it is not paint it is gun bluing. A controled rust prosess. WD-40 eats upp leather and is nt good for wood. He's knife have rusted because the lack of oil and he has probably been using the choil without remowing the fingerprints,the salts and acid from hands make everything rust.
@@bushcraft_in_the_north Well about 20 years ago, when I got my first sword. I hosed down the inside of the scabbard, a leather one, with WD-40, and guess what. It did not eat the leather. Or damage the wood of the handle of the sword. Can you tell me where you got this information? I'm 60 years old and I've been using WD-40 for along time, for all sorts of things.
They come in two steel variants 1055 & 1085 do you know which steel that one is ,and the rust may have come from the sheath ,because the bluing should have prevented that rust.
I have the Legacy armories Viking seax and a medieval utility knife beautiful blades..... but don't use them much in the field because they are carbon steel, and just don't like dragging their maintenance kits with me to prevent rusting
the knife serves 2 reasons: First is that it is an outdoor kitchen utensil and a tool for crafting small traps and other features in the outdoors. Second, it is a combat tool for fighting large attackers such as bears, cougars, wolves, foxes, and anything that wants to harm you. You complain that it is not sensible for bushcrafting, but you are wrong, because it is meant to protect you and do crafting at the same time. Go to the convenience store and buy a small knife to support this knife
high carbon steel rusts, has nothing to do with quality control and everything to do with user control, keep it oiled and you will have no problems. My only complaint with this knife is its lack of a lanyard attachment point, IMHO all large knives must have one for safety and the lack of one has stopped me from buying it. I instead bought a 1849 Rifleman's Knife, and it is magnificent. It rusts too if you don't oil it up.....
in my opinion the lack of a lanyard hole is a bonus, it's not necessary and it's harder to find a knife without one, than it is to find one with it. you are spoiled for choice if you like lanyard holes
@@Murtagh653 the point is with a lanyard hole you simply don't have to add a lanyard if that's your preference, if a hole isn't there you don't have the option. I wonder why EVERY competition knife (comp chopper) requires a lanyard?
@@waveman0 it spoils the looks for me. wonder no more, we are in the age of the nanny state, you cannot tie your shoes without tripping over regulations these days. no more common sense, or awareness of your own limits.
@@waveman0 one rather ridiculous example, is that i can go for a swim in a river, no lifejacket, and i am not breaking the law, but if i take a kayak in that same river, i am breaking the law if i don't wear a lifejacket and can (will) be fined if i am caught without one.
You can't expect a high carbon steel knife not to rust, no matter how dry its kept. Judging by your accent, you don't live in a very dry climate. EVERY carbon steel blade should be kept oiled at all times. As soon as you purchase it, oil it! The blueing of the 1085 steel slows the rust, it doesn't negate it. In addition, there's never a coating on the edge of the blade. Even if the coated part of the blade doesn't rust, the edge will!
the b igger the blade the more easy it is to featherstick with it, do a YT search if you dont understand how, or make it sharper or use the choil if that helps you, but there is other ways. But you have to learn how to use a knife first, then a large knife. A scandi is not the best at it, try a convex edge.
It should rust if its the type of steel that its it supposed to be all of my knives are high carbon steel and they would rust to if I neglected them, but I don't ,look dude if you're not using it you need to oil it any oil will do just keep the oxygen out of the steel, I'm acturaly impressed with the fact that it rusts that means it's high carbon steel which means you can get a very sharp edge on the blade and it will stay sharp longer my high carbon steel opinel knives are dangerously sharp, I must be careful using them, and that's exactly what you want, the knife should do most of the work for you, so it must be kept sharp, a dull knife is just a piece of iron,
Why do people insist on doing woodwork with a Bowie? It's a weapon, not a woodworking tool. There are probably more suitable big blades out there. The Texas clip is designed to split ribs and they are front heavy, not for cutting would but for lopping arms off!
I know, these Bowie reviews drive me crazy, the knife if for killing people, this blade here will chop your head off or if a man has his fists up you can chop his hand clean off. Bowie knife is wicked
@@nobodysreview6137 why do they always do Bushcraft stuff to test Bowie knives on RUclips? If they disembowed people and lopped off the limbs of screaming victims their next video would be about making toilet bowl prison booze.
@@deniskozlowski9370Bowie is a fighting knife, Jim Bowie made it so he could carry it, and it be like a short sword but with choping power and the bowie tip for stabing, it was specificly designed to kill people. People were geting attacked and robbed while walking down trails or traveling so he came up with it to fight them. Bowie will chop a mans head clean off, chop an arm clean off and short for close quarters combat. Everything about the knife is for fighting a human being, not wood carving or hunting or skinning an animal, it wasnt a working knife that could be used for fighting. Its only purpose was for fighting a man trying to take everything you own or kill you. When you see Bowie knives with a brass guard or brass on the back of the blade, that was to absorb impact from a sword or knife so your blade wouldnt crack or break or be jared from your hand by the impact. These videos of guys cuting wood for camping or talking like they gonna carve and skin an animal or something shows they dont know anything about the knife and makes them look stupid. Its also disrespectfull to Jim Bowie. If you asked Jim Bowie to design a skinning knife i. sure he could and it wouldnt look like a Bowie knife.
@@nobodysreview6137 I can assure you that Bowie is not a good design for a fighting knife. It's designed to be a jack of all trades master of none multi-tool. You can thrust with it but it's not as good as a rapier. You can sword fight with it but it doesn't have much reach and if someone has a longer weapon you're done for. You can conceal carry it but it's not as good as a smaller dagger that you can conceal better and get out faster and more discreetly. You can use it as a machete to chop vegetation but it's not as good as an actual machete. You can use it as an axe to cut down trees but it's not as good as an actual axe. you can use it for carving or wood shaving or fire starting but it's not as good as more specialised tools. it does a little of everything but doesn't do anything that well compared to a specialised tool. it's a space saving device so that you don't have to carry around an axe and a machete and a skinning knife and a dagger etc. if you want a fighting knife get a specialised fighting knife that has only one purpose though. If you want an all rounder camping knife that can do a little of everything get a Bowie.
![OsamaSon - ik what you did last summer [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4DIQDnu3mr4/mqdefault.jpg)
I have that exact knife. I haven’t used it much but, so far mine has No Rust at all. I took off the handle scales and put Vaseline on all the metal even the screws. When I draw it from the sheath you can see the Vaseline all over the blade. I live in the North Eastern USA. It’s very wet, cold and Humid here. Everything Rusts here, But as I said: So Far , no rust. If my knife were rusting like that I would: Sand off all the rust. Put vinegar or yellow mustard on that area to Force a Patina on the steel to protect it. Finally I would coat it in petroleum jelly ( Vaseline ). - keep us updated, I love videos of this knife. 👍🏻
That’s the trade off because high carbon steel is durable and tough compared to stainless steel.
That's exactly what you should do as soon as you receive the knife. I have like 12 high carbon steel knives. None have even a little rust. I just use standard drug store mineral oil. I should probably get something that will last a bit longer. However, it's surprising how well cheap mineral oil does the job. A waxy coating would be better for long term storage.
@@DDDYLN ,… exactly. Recently I’ve been running the blade edge thru hard “Gulf Wax” then using a thin coat of Vaseline on the rest of the blade for longer storage,… like 3-12 months and it’s been working great.
As others have pointed out, a carbon steel blade will rust. The bluing helps to prevent that but it is not absolute protection. I periodically coat my 1917 Frontier Bowie with Break Free and haven't had a problem with it. Also note that there is a rounded cut out on the bottom of the blade by the handguard so you can position your index finger forward of the handguard to get more control for delicate cutting tasks.
I’m so glad we have no knife laws in NewHampshire
Looks like a great blade! Thanks for sharing and stay blessed
Sorry, but the rust doesn´t have anything to do with quality control.
it´s made of a non stainless steel, it will rust!
Yep, gotta keep it oiled. My display knives have renaissance wax and it works beautifully.
Yeah, its made from 1080, or 1085 high carbon steel. I love mine.
Except for the fact that it has some kind of coating or blueing which should PREVENT rust
@@donjuanmckenzie4897 coatings and bluing helps steel prevent rust, but it is not a guarantee against rust, it only helps prevent rust if you take care of the knife properly. the same goes for stainless steel, it resists rust, but it is not rust proof, if you store it wet, especially if it's wet from salt water, it will rust, you have to do your part and keep the knife clean and dry, minimum.
UPDATE: My 1917 Frontier Bowie started rusting pretty bad, also. I did remove all the rust and I forced a Patina on the blade & guard. It looks pretty good now.
Would you mind doing an update video? I'd love to see that
@@buckwild6587 ,... I just posted two of my older update videos of the 1917 FRONTIER BOWIE after cleaning it up.
Its something that Windlass uses to keep the blade in the sheath. I get a perfect square patch of rust on just about every Windlass sword I have in that same place your knife has it.
You can't blame the manufacturer for rust forming on a knife. That's your fault. Buy some oil.
I was about to say the exact same thing!
Try to use a thick oil on your knife blades. I live in South West Louisiana here in America. High humidity. I use 3-in-One oil on all my firearms and knives. Thin oil doesn't protect as well as thicker oil due to humidity. I rub them down once a month or after every use. It should work for you also.
Nice Bowie ,I’m really considering one , if I do get one I think I would remove the factory finish and redo it with a gun blue
Yeah, you need to keep your blade oiled. Specially in England where its damp most of the time. I live in a dry climate and I don't have much of a problem with rust on my blades, but I do keep them oiled. I've also heard that Vasaline works well too.
You do need need to lubricate it, you don't want rust on your chopper! 😂
Nice bowie, I recently bought a Honshu Boshin Toothpick!
Would like to own one made with the 1085 carbon steel, but it is difficult to know what one the sellers are carrying because they still have them specified as 1055 carbon steel in the US.
I love 1055 steel....awesome for big blades. I have the black bear bowie and love it.
(I also think 1070 is another great choice.)
No clue how or why your knife rusted where it did. Since it has a nice coat of Cold Steels black paint on it. Like others have said it is a high carbon steel blade so needs to be taken care of. When I got mine the sheath was so tight I sprayed WD-40 into it let it soak then just kept putting the knife in and drawing it. Also, the WD-40 has coated the knife. As for using this knife to chap and split wood, change the edge grind to a 24 degree flat grind on each side and you will notice a big difference ih how it chops and splits wood. Oh and the edge will hold up much better.
it is not paint it is gun bluing. A controled rust prosess. WD-40 eats upp leather and is nt good for wood. He's knife have rusted because the lack of oil and he has probably been using the choil without remowing the fingerprints,the salts and acid from hands make everything rust.
@@bushcraft_in_the_north Well about 20 years ago, when I got my first sword. I hosed down the inside of the scabbard, a leather one, with WD-40, and guess what. It did not eat the leather. Or damage the wood of the handle of the sword. Can you tell me where you got this information? I'm 60 years old and I've been using WD-40 for along time, for all sorts of things.
They come in two steel variants 1055 & 1085 do you know which steel that one is ,and the rust may have come from the sheath ,because the bluing should have prevented that rust.
I think it rusted because of the leather sheath, leather absorbs & holds onto moisture.
I have the Legacy armories Viking seax and a medieval utility knife beautiful blades..... but don't use them much in the field because they are carbon steel, and just don't like dragging their maintenance kits with me to prevent rusting
I believe that it was Jim's brother Rezin Bowie that made the knife.
New subscriber Little Rock Arkansas
the knife serves 2 reasons: First is that it is an outdoor kitchen utensil and a tool for crafting small traps and other features in the outdoors. Second, it is a combat tool for fighting large attackers such as bears, cougars, wolves, foxes, and anything that wants to harm you. You complain that it is not sensible for bushcrafting, but you are wrong, because it is meant to protect you and do crafting at the same time. Go to the convenience store and buy a small knife to support this knife
high carbon steel rusts, has nothing to do with quality control and everything to do with user control, keep it oiled and you will have no problems.
My only complaint with this knife is its lack of a lanyard attachment point, IMHO all large knives must have one for safety and the lack of one has stopped me from buying it. I instead bought a 1849 Rifleman's Knife, and it is magnificent. It rusts too if you don't oil it up.....
in my opinion the lack of a lanyard hole is a bonus, it's not necessary and it's harder to find a knife without one, than it is to find one with it. you are spoiled for choice if you like lanyard holes
@@Murtagh653 the point is with a lanyard hole you simply don't have to add a lanyard if that's your preference, if a hole isn't there you don't have the option.
I wonder why EVERY competition knife (comp chopper) requires a lanyard?
@@waveman0 it spoils the looks for me.
wonder no more, we are in the age of the nanny state, you cannot tie your shoes without tripping over regulations these days. no more common sense, or awareness of your own limits.
@@Murtagh653 we most certainly live in the age of the nanny state, and the powers-to-be trying to save us from ourselves.
@@waveman0 one rather ridiculous example, is that i can go for a swim in a river, no lifejacket, and i am not breaking the law, but if i take a kayak in that same river, i am breaking the law if i don't wear a lifejacket and can (will) be fined if i am caught without one.
Imagine having to be on private property to use a tool
You can't expect a high carbon steel knife not to rust, no matter how dry its kept. Judging by your accent, you don't live in a very dry climate. EVERY carbon steel blade should be kept oiled at all times. As soon as you purchase it, oil it! The blueing of the 1085 steel slows the rust, it doesn't negate it. In addition, there's never a coating on the edge of the blade. Even if the coated part of the blade doesn't rust, the edge will!
the b igger the blade the more easy it is to featherstick with it, do a YT search if you dont understand how, or make it sharper or use the choil if that helps you, but there is other ways. But you have to learn how to use a knife first, then a large knife. A scandi is not the best at it, try a convex edge.
It should rust if its the type of steel that its it supposed to be all of my knives are high carbon steel and they would rust to if I neglected them, but I don't ,look dude if you're not using it you need to oil it any oil will do just keep the oxygen out of the steel, I'm acturaly impressed with the fact that it rusts that means it's high carbon steel which means you can get a very sharp edge on the blade and it will stay sharp longer my high carbon steel opinel knives are dangerously sharp, I must be careful using them, and that's exactly what you want, the knife should do most of the work for you, so it must be kept sharp, a dull knife is just a piece of iron,
Why do people insist on doing woodwork with a Bowie? It's a weapon, not a woodworking tool. There are probably more suitable big blades out there. The Texas clip is designed to split ribs and they are front heavy, not for cutting would but for lopping arms off!
I know, these Bowie reviews drive me crazy, the knife if for killing people, this blade here will chop your head off or if a man has his fists up you can chop his hand clean off. Bowie knife is wicked
@@nobodysreview6137 why do they always do Bushcraft stuff to test Bowie knives on RUclips? If they disembowed people and lopped off the limbs of screaming victims their next video would be about making toilet bowl prison booze.
@@deniskozlowski9370Bowie is a fighting knife, Jim Bowie made it so he could carry it, and it be like a short sword but with choping power and the bowie tip for stabing, it was specificly designed to kill people. People were geting attacked and robbed while walking down trails or traveling so he came up with it to fight them. Bowie will chop a mans head clean off, chop an arm clean off and short for close quarters combat. Everything about the knife is for fighting a human being, not wood carving or hunting or skinning an animal, it wasnt a working knife that could be used for fighting. Its only purpose was for fighting a man trying to take everything you own or kill you. When you see Bowie knives with a brass guard or brass on the back of the blade, that was to absorb impact from a sword or knife so your blade wouldnt crack or break or be jared from your hand by the impact. These videos of guys cuting wood for camping or talking like they gonna carve and skin an animal or something shows they dont know anything about the knife and makes them look stupid. Its also disrespectfull to Jim Bowie. If you asked Jim Bowie to design a skinning knife i. sure he could and it wouldnt look like a Bowie knife.
Bowie's aren't weapons they're camping tools they're not primarily designed to be weapons
@@nobodysreview6137 I can assure you that Bowie is not a good design for a fighting knife. It's designed to be a jack of all trades master of none multi-tool. You can thrust with it but it's not as good as a rapier. You can sword fight with it but it doesn't have much reach and if someone has a longer weapon you're done for. You can conceal carry it but it's not as good as a smaller dagger that you can conceal better and get out faster and more discreetly. You can use it as a machete to chop vegetation but it's not as good as an actual machete. You can use it as an axe to cut down trees but it's not as good as an actual axe. you can use it for carving or wood shaving or fire starting but it's not as good as more specialised tools.
it does a little of everything but doesn't do anything that well compared to a specialised tool.
it's a space saving device so that you don't have to carry around an axe and a machete and a skinning knife and a dagger etc.
if you want a fighting knife get a specialised fighting knife that has only one purpose though. If you want an all rounder camping knife that can do a little of everything get a Bowie.
Dont like the idea of Ty the blade being made in India though.
What knive is that at 7:00 ?
That's a Barlow style knife. I couldn't tell you the specific brand, but Boker makes some good Barlow knives if you're interested. Klein does as well.
@@eltipobigotudo2162 ok thank you 😀
@@dimitrivos7088 Happy to help!
Don't store the knife in the sheath long term.
Splitting axes are made for 6" wide logs. Not a knife you doughnut!