I like your new crawler, a step up from my used cardboard one, I'll bet it lays on rock a lot softer than mine. I got a good chuckle out of your line, "you had me at free", sounds like what I would be thinking or saying. Good luck with the 1655, you did good catching the problems with the overheating when you did. Thanks, have a wonderful day!
Crisis averted! Great video, Ross! I'm doing an overhaul on my 1650 gas, and it also had the two-piece wrist pin bushings. They didn't look bad, but they are being replaced with the one-piece bushing regardless.
I don't know about you Ross but I myself enjoy doing engine overhauls but like it more when the engine is totally out. Hope all goes well. You not have any trouble afterwards thx Ross
Way back 1976 an old machinist found a one piece bushing I think out of a GMC v6 and fit them to my dad's 77. It is hard to find a decent machine shop these days. the shop I used one town over just shut down the first of the year.
I learned something new again. I didn't know anyone used two piece wristpin bushings. One look at those,, and I was instantly in agreement. I'm sure glad you checked those out. I will be looking at anything I get into in the future. Thanks for sharing. I'll see you later.
I watched this on my phone as I waited for a part at animal noise parts store and of course it didn’t show nor could they contact the wear house too see what was going on thank you for posting
Ross, it looks like you caught it just in the Nick of time. I hope you are putting a arrow kit in it and not reliance kits in. My reliance kit that got put in my 1755 motor is nothing but sadness. It’s going to have to be rebuilt and have a arrow kit put in it sometime.
New connecting small-end rod bushings should be a standard replacement when rebuilding all Wakisha Oliver engines. The only thing with ny-lock nuts is that they are one use only. We sent the head, rods, and new bushings to an automotive machine shop and he honed the piston pin bushings to a factory fit. Wristpin bushings are simply too cheap to not be replaced. All forces that are placed on the big end rod bearings are also placed on the wrist pin bushings. The only thing with ny-lock nuts is that they are one use only. JD has stamped on their rod and head bolts "One-time use only". With some aircraft bolts and our race engines, we torqued them using a micrometer to measure stretch, not ft-pounds. JD has stamped on their rod and head bolts "One-time use only". We always installed the famous M&W pistons and sleeves. The extra few ponies and mainly torque increase was always appreciated by the customers. M&W offset their piston pins to increase torque. With the screaming 273 Dodge/Plymouth Super Commando factory hotrod engines, simply pulled the pistons out of one bank and swapped them with the pistons from the opposite bank. The piston pins were placed in the "quiet side" to stop the piston slap noise. That swap alone would bump the hp to over 300 ponies. One could change to a little more radical cam with more valve opening overlap but the stock cam was about as radical as one would want for street driving. The radio antenna would shake when the engine idled Our 65 Dart GT would top 100 mph in 1/4 mile drag. Stopping with those little drum brakes was the problem. Chrysler had a great warranty that replaced the rear-end spider gears as often as one would change the oil. I finally welded the spider gears to lock the differential which stopped the spider gear problems but then the 7.5" ring and pinion gears were the weak spot. One pinion broke and went through the top of the Salsbury rear end. I painted a dyechem blue stripe down each axle and scribed a straight line down the length. When the line showed a full twist of the axles they got replaced. Our 66 Hemi Coronet had the Dana 60 rear end with the drag race rear springs designed to put the differential snubber (which we put spacers under it to make it almost touch the body when sitting) tight against the body when launching it down the 1/4 mile. It effectively made it a solid mount axle assembly and stopped any wheel hop. Today, the famous Hellcat Dodges with 1,000 hp under the hood in off-the-showroom stock condition actually lift the front wheels off the track when launching and would be turning off the strip while our 426 Hemi Coronet would just be going through the lights. A Cadilac car with some sensor modifications will do 130 mph in a 1/4 mile.
Hi Ross. I would like to point out that Korves or one of the other Oliver parts suppliers. Are machining the rods to take a thicker one piece rod bushing. Even the one pieces can have issues breaking do to the thin nature of them. I’m guessing you already know about that. But if not wanted to point it out.
Yup, glad you found that 2 piece rod bushings ought to be outlawed. Did I see that the first rod looked a little bent? Maybe my eyes deceived me. The bigger question is we're there many boopity boop boop words in the process that had to be edited out?
Ross, what were/are the differences between the 50 and 55 series? If I may suggest and no, not wanting to cause you to spend any more money than necessary but, pull the block and head and have them flattened. If it's gotten hot in the past, you just don't know what that's done to the head and or block. Hate to see you put this back together to only have to pull it apart again because one or the other has warped. 2 piece bushings have been around for a long time and was the dumbest idea ever, glad that crap stopped. As always, another great video, cheers :)
Heard a slight knock at idle this weekend at the back of my 880 gas engine, pushed in the clutch and it is still there. Suppose I could drop the pan and check it. It's never been rebuilt. Is #6 rod a particular culprit?
I know the Chrysler Leaning Tower of Power. The number one rod would be the first to go if the engine was lacking in maintenance because it was the farthest of the oil pump. I wonder how the oil pump is oriented on these Olivers. It's something I'll be finding out when I overhaul my Super 77 diesel this winter. Luckily like the 1655 Ross is working on, my 77 has excellent oil pressure.
HI ROSS 😊😊 IVE seen that be 4 also 2 peace rod bushings and I have also seen them brass I don't like them at all 😮😮 the soild rod bushings are alot better and the cylinder head gasket that was no good be 4 put a copperhead gasket much better and it will last longer 😊😊 OMG 7 9 2O24
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Sure caught that sadness just in time Ross
Got lucky on that sadness there Ross.... cant wait to hear it running again
Nice video Ross, can’t wait to see it running again!
You and me both!
Another video I really enjoyed. Keep going!!! Great video Ross
Thank you!
Great job Ross!
Thanks!
Those pistons were just self recycling themselves. It’s not a failure but a feature 😂
Ross, sounds like you have pretty good timing to tear into it now. Thanks Michael
I like your new crawler, a step up from my used cardboard one, I'll bet it lays on rock a lot softer than mine. I got a good chuckle out of your line, "you had me at free", sounds like what I would be thinking or saying. Good luck with the 1655, you did good catching the problems with the overheating when you did. Thanks, have a wonderful day!
🤣 Thanks!
Crisis averted! Great video, Ross! I'm doing an overhaul on my 1650 gas, and it also had the two-piece wrist pin bushings. They didn't look bad, but they are being replaced with the one-piece bushing regardless.
I don't know about you Ross but I myself enjoy doing engine overhauls but like it more when the engine is totally out. Hope all goes well. You not have any trouble afterwards thx Ross
Agree. It’s harder doing it in the tractor.
Good video
Thanks!
Good catch on the 1655. You'll get it fixed up good. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
🚜
Thanks!
Way back 1976 an old machinist found a one piece bushing I think out of a GMC v6 and fit them to my dad's 77. It is hard to find a decent machine shop these days. the shop I used one town over just shut down the first of the year.
I learned something new again. I didn't know anyone used two piece wristpin bushings. One look at those,, and I was instantly in agreement. I'm sure glad you checked those out. I will be looking at anything I get into in the future. Thanks for sharing. I'll see you later.
thank ya for pointing that problem out I didn't know that
Whew, looks like you caught that one just in time. That would have been a real shame if it had thrown a rod through the block. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks!
A couple rubber vaccum hose caps on the rod bolts can save you from a lot of sadness.😮😢😢
Good video Ross. Guess you got a blessing there. It sure could have been a lot worse. Good save and thanks for sharing.
Thanks Keith!
Hey Ross you ain’t no Dummy.! I’m still watching ! Keep on with the keeping on 😅
Thanks!
You tore that engine down just in time, before it tore itself down!
Just in time! By a whisker!
@@JohnBryant-qc5zg those pistons and bushings were sad
And you couldn’t tell any of that from looking at the top of the piston
I watched this on my phone as I waited for a part at animal noise parts store and of course it didn’t show nor could they contact the wear house too see what was going on thank you for posting
🤣 Thanks for watching!
Ross, it looks like you caught it just in the Nick of time. I hope you are putting a arrow kit in it and not reliance kits in. My reliance kit that got put in my 1755 motor is nothing but sadness. It’s going to have to be rebuilt and have a arrow kit put in it sometime.
If I lived near you I would be good company and help
You’d get sick of me in person 🤣
New connecting small-end rod bushings should be a standard replacement when rebuilding all Wakisha Oliver engines. The only thing with ny-lock nuts is that they are one use only. We sent the head, rods, and new bushings to an automotive machine shop and he honed the piston pin bushings to a factory fit. Wristpin bushings are simply too cheap to not be replaced. All forces that are placed on the big end rod bearings are also placed on the wrist pin bushings.
The only thing with ny-lock nuts is that they are one use only. JD has stamped on their rod and head bolts "One-time use only". With some aircraft bolts and our race engines, we torqued them using a micrometer to measure stretch, not ft-pounds. JD has stamped on their rod and head bolts "One-time use only".
We always installed the famous M&W pistons and sleeves. The extra few ponies and mainly torque increase was always appreciated by the customers. M&W offset their piston pins to increase torque. With the screaming 273 Dodge/Plymouth Super Commando factory hotrod engines, simply pulled the pistons out of one bank and swapped them with the pistons from the opposite bank. The piston pins were placed in the "quiet side" to stop the piston slap noise. That swap alone would bump the hp to over 300 ponies. One could change to a little more radical cam with more valve opening overlap but the stock cam was about as radical as one would want for street driving. The radio antenna would shake when the engine idled
Our 65 Dart GT would top 100 mph in 1/4 mile drag. Stopping with those little drum brakes was the problem. Chrysler had a great warranty that replaced the rear-end spider gears as often as one would change the oil. I finally welded the spider gears to lock the differential which stopped the spider gear problems but then the 7.5" ring and pinion gears were the weak spot. One pinion broke and went through the top of the Salsbury rear end. I painted a dyechem blue stripe down each axle and scribed a straight line down the length. When the line showed a full twist of the axles they got replaced. Our 66 Hemi Coronet had the Dana 60 rear end with the drag race rear springs designed to put the differential snubber (which we put spacers under it to make it almost touch the body when sitting) tight against the body when launching it down the 1/4 mile. It effectively made it a solid mount axle assembly and stopped any wheel hop.
Today, the famous Hellcat Dodges with 1,000 hp under the hood in off-the-showroom stock condition actually lift the front wheels off the track when launching and would be turning off the strip while our 426 Hemi Coronet would just be going through the lights. A Cadilac car with some sensor modifications will do 130 mph in a 1/4 mile.
I always replace the rod bushings. That two piece set up was a bad idea. I got all new nuts so we’ll see how it holds up. Thanks Gary!
Hi Ross. I would like to point out that Korves or one of the other Oliver parts suppliers. Are machining the rods to take a thicker one piece rod bushing. Even the one pieces can have issues breaking do to the thin nature of them. I’m guessing you already know about that. But if not wanted to point it out.
The machine shop will take care of it.
Could you put a lock washer along with the nylon nut
Yup, glad you found that 2 piece rod bushings ought to be outlawed. Did I see that the first rod looked a little bent? Maybe my eyes deceived me. The bigger question is we're there many boopity boop boop words in the process that had to be edited out?
I think that’s a camera illusion. It distorts things sometimes
There just seems to be much sadness in your life Ross. Here’s something to cheer you up. 🍺
🤣 Thanks!
Ross, what were/are the differences between the 50 and 55 series? If I may suggest and no, not wanting to cause you to spend any more money than necessary but, pull the block and head and have them flattened. If it's gotten hot in the past, you just don't know what that's done to the head and or block. Hate to see you put this back together to only have to pull it apart again because one or the other has warped.
2 piece bushings have been around for a long time and was the dumbest idea ever, glad that crap stopped. As always, another great video, cheers :)
I was just thinking the other day I should make a video pointing out the differences. I’ll have to do that very soon.
Some day I need to tear into my 66 industrial engine. Do those have 2 piece wristpin bushings from new to?
2 piece rod bushings cost me an engine block on a 1755 once
Yup. They are a definite point of failure.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks!
Ross, how hot was it running ? I think my IH 504 runs to hot brush hogging. Gauge is close to peged and thermo gun showss around 200 deg.
How hot on the temp gauge was it running at
I would put a diesel motor in it. Not a fan of gas’s power 👨🌾
I would rather run this gas one than the diesel.
Heard a slight knock at idle this weekend at the back of my 880 gas engine, pushed in the clutch and it is still there. Suppose I could drop the pan and check it. It's never been rebuilt. Is #6 rod a particular culprit?
I know the Chrysler Leaning Tower of Power. The number one rod would be the first to go if the engine was lacking in maintenance because it was the farthest of the oil pump. I wonder how the oil pump is oriented on these Olivers. It's something I'll be finding out when I overhaul my Super 77 diesel this winter. Luckily like the 1655 Ross is working on, my 77 has excellent oil pressure.
who does your machine work ?
😁🥵👍👍👍
Thanks!
Good thing you quit using it when you did
Yup. it kind of made the decision for me.
HI ROSS 😊😊 IVE seen that be 4 also 2 peace rod bushings and I have also seen them brass I don't like them at all 😮😮 the soild rod bushings are alot better and the cylinder head gasket that was no good be 4 put a copperhead gasket much better and it will last longer 😊😊 OMG 7 9 2O24