interesting.... QUESTION ? So if you have a 1000 Watt invertor, and you have over 1500 Watt battery source Would it still work ? or would the invertor burn out ? or would the Invertor only work with 1000Watt input and put out a little less than 1000 Watts ? I am soo confused... Does the 1000Watt on the invertor , deal with the input or output of the Watts ??
I had this inverter run an 1100w hot plate. That's pushing it lol. The battery is only as good as the inverter connected to it, and a 100ah battery is good for about 1500w max
I like you're ideal and plan. Trying to build something similar. Build something small and Mobile that can handle the basics. Learn from that. Tp eventually do a bigger offgrid type system. Ive been looking at using ammo cans as power stations. Im thinking adding a 10 amp or so 120v battery charger to have option to charge from generator ect. The renogy 2 pack 100 watt panels are on sale. I got a set last night
I use three 400 watt solar panels wired in series to keep my batteries up to snuff…and keep them on stand by and have an inverter just for my fridge, coffee maker and microwave…it’s 12v and 3300 amps and I use a victron inverter… my other two batteries are 1200 amps and they’re cheaper and they power our lights and computers…oh I forgot…another 3300 amp battery and inverter dedicated to the home server and HAM radio and satellite phone for emergencies…
You DRASTICALLY over estimated the power requirement of a mini fridge. I have a larger dorm refrigerator with separate freezer and it averages about 18 watts an hour over a 24 hour period (about 450wh a day). It does jump up to over 100 watts surge during compressor start up, but quickly drops down to 40-50 watts. The compressor is off a lot of the time.
I think your math is off I can run a mini fridge with 2 100v panels with 2 100ah batt. Buy the biggest charge controller You can afford by the most amount of batteries you can afford then add the panels as you go The panels will add up to suit your needs to replenish power on demand
You're trying to simplify a very complex subject matter. First of all, there are losses. A 1000 watts into an inverter will not give you a 1000 watts out. There are internal losses created by the inefficiency of the electronics, heat losses during the conversion process. Also, DC watts does not equal AC watts. One is an average reading quantity the other is a RMS value. There is also losses in the battery. 5 amps of charging a 12v battery will not give you 60 Watts of available power. And of course you left out AH or Amp-hours out of your video. A battery will not supply its terminal voltage indefinitely. AH is actually a better quantity to rate a battery power availability. Another thing you must consider is duty cycle. Not all loads will be consuming power at all times at the full nameplate rating. If time is considered, then you might be able to run that refrigerator, a toaster, lights and a radio off that battery, just not all at once. Also, please consider wire management and workmanship when handling any type of wiring.
Great set up. I have just started getting my solar together. Should start fitting it soon.
interesting....
QUESTION ?
So if you have a 1000 Watt invertor,
and you have over 1500 Watt battery source
Would it still work ? or would the invertor burn out ? or would the Invertor only work with 1000Watt input and put out a little less than 1000 Watts ?
I am soo confused...
Does the 1000Watt on the invertor , deal with the input or output of the Watts ??
I had this inverter run an 1100w hot plate. That's pushing it lol. The battery is only as good as the inverter connected to it, and a 100ah battery is good for about 1500w max
Thanks for the video(s) - good review of this solar starter kit :)
Wh/V=A? When you x12 is 12 the the voltage? Thank you.
Yes, it's a 12 volt battery. So A x V = W
I like you're ideal and plan. Trying to build something similar. Build something small and Mobile that can handle the basics. Learn from that. Tp eventually do a bigger offgrid type system. Ive been looking at using ammo cans as power stations. Im thinking adding a 10 amp or so 120v battery charger to have option to charge from generator ect. The renogy 2 pack 100 watt panels are on sale. I got a set last night
Probably a good time for you to add on.
Where is part two?
Enjoy your DIY projects now because the upcoming tariffs will make the cost of these components too expensive to buy for most folks.
I use three 400 watt solar panels wired in series to keep my batteries up to snuff…and keep them on stand by and have an inverter just for my fridge, coffee maker and microwave…it’s 12v and 3300 amps and I use a victron inverter… my other two batteries are 1200 amps and they’re cheaper and they power our lights and computers…oh I forgot…another 3300 amp battery and inverter dedicated to the home server and HAM radio and satellite phone for emergencies…
You DRASTICALLY over estimated the power requirement of a mini fridge.
I have a larger dorm refrigerator with separate freezer and it averages about 18 watts an hour over a 24 hour period (about 450wh a day). It does jump up to over 100 watts surge during compressor start up, but quickly drops down to 40-50 watts. The compressor is off a lot of the time.
In all honesty that won't do anything apart from lights and charging laptops
Yeah, just smaller stuff. That's why I plan on expanding it to 2000w and at least one more battery.
@@survivalistprepper personally I would forget 12 volts. Such good offers on 24 or 48 volt batteries. Will make your life easier in the future builds
I think your math is off I can run a mini fridge with 2 100v panels with 2 100ah batt. Buy the biggest charge controller You can afford by the most amount of batteries you can afford then add the panels as you go The panels will add up to suit your needs to replenish power on demand
You're trying to simplify a very complex subject matter. First of all, there are losses. A 1000 watts into an inverter will not give you a 1000 watts out. There are internal losses created by the inefficiency of the electronics, heat losses during the conversion process. Also, DC watts does not equal AC watts. One is an average reading quantity the other is a RMS value. There is also losses in the battery. 5 amps of charging a 12v battery will not give you 60 Watts of available power. And of course you left out AH or Amp-hours out of your video. A battery will not supply its terminal voltage indefinitely. AH is actually a better quantity to rate a battery power availability. Another thing you must consider is duty cycle. Not all loads will be consuming power at all times at the full nameplate rating. If time is considered, then you might be able to run that refrigerator, a toaster, lights and a radio off that battery, just not all at once.
Also, please consider wire management and workmanship when handling any type of wiring.