The heating is almost entirely to keep the cast housing from cracking due to stresses cause by sudden and uneven heating. Likewise the blanket helps it cool down more evenly and gently, as quick cooling can cause cracks also.
Awesome job installing that truss. I have a TMR truss on my 2008 JKU, couldn't be happier with it. TMR puts out some fantastic gear. Just ordered their 2.5 ton steering kit. We are happy to have them here in Ontario (Canada). TMR has a booth in the Unlimited Off Road show in Kentucky next week. Check them out.
The reason for preheating the cast iron is because a rapid heat up and cool down in a small area could cause it to crack or become very brittle and likely to crack. its better to preheat the entire piece if you can rather than just the areas you are going to weld. if not, an alternative to preheating would be to weld in small increments and covering it while it cools (till you can touch it) between welds.
gonzala you are dumber than hell, you don’t have to heat the whole piece, only the area immediately around the weld area (2-3”) and let the heat soak into the areas around it!
The reason for pre and post heat is to ensure the molecular enhancement of the two dissimilar metals, thus encouraging them to become one with each other, and live happily ever after, the end.
not sure if the best way but when I have wielded on cast ( farm equipment or tractor parts ) I used a rag soaked in antifreeze to keep heat down and in one area. Also older cast I believe was lote more dense not as porous
Thanks for making another great video! Was wondering how you set the caster angle? Looks like you eyeballed it, I'm guessing you can adjust with the y-arms, no?
At 2:38 it looks like you layed the grinder disc on the cord you should check to see if you accidentally cut the cord if you accidentally cut the cord it could shock you or kill you or catch you on fire.
Awesome! I was wanting to do this and now I'm going to after watching this video. Quick question tho. Is there a kit for the rear as well?? I can't find one if so. Thank!!
That looks really cool! Doesnt that cause the axle it warp upwards when you weld on it? Those shaft housings are just extra heavy pipe thats been trued up by being line bored. If it pulls up just a .0001" it can cause tons of wear on your bearings and what not.
UnitCrane514 he mentioned several times that he took his time between welds to prevent it from warping. also there is no way that .0001" will do anything.
Jacob Lauritzen the only way i can see chance of warping is to run 24 inches of weld at once. the rest of that was song and dance for no real reason. speed kills, get your task done and over with.
what about the inner Cs that hold your ball joints and such, arent they the weak point for bending? would it be better to use a kit or make youe own truss setup that spans from the C to the pumpkin? or even C-C and than pumpkin welding is optional although id still weld to the pumpkin to tie it in better to the tubes
the dana 44 front you have does not have a cast iron centersection. that is cast steel, much easier to weld then cast iron, you really didnt have to go through all the heating and wrapping with a blanket since it is just cast steel (but heating a bit is still good if youre going to mig cast steel) trust me if that was cast iron and you welded it up with regular mig wire and 75/25 it would of cracked.
Matt, I hope this isn't a silly question. I was wondering if it is possible to convert a Dana 30 to a Dana 44 front axle? Or would it just be cheaper to buy a front 44? Mind you I have a 2015 Willy's JK with ARB lockers front and rear. Is there any information you can share with me?
thank you ! their website shopping cart just said "Coupon code "BLEEPINJEEP" is not valid." i am making frame stiffeners and installing long arms now. i plan to do the front axle while it is out of the jeep
no luck i guess... i was ready to order, but i can find other options :( thanks for posting discounts. i just wish the companies you take the time to advertise for would uphold their end of the bargain
@@lanckie thanks for the tip. they were not running any other discounts when i was building my axle. i ended up finding a good deal on artec truss kit with jonny joints.
Awesome vid! Is there anyway I can truss my axle without gutting it out? It's been newly rebuilt with an ARB and what not and there's no way I can see myself redoing it?!??
whats too hot? is the 400F pre heat going to be too hot? would it better the leave the oil in while heating to help even out heat internally or drain the diff oil to prevent it from transferring heat from the pumpkin to the gears and seals as much
I saw the carrier was removed along with the pinion. did you also remove the seals to before you heated the pumpkin up? or could the seals withstand the heat?
+Scotty T. no, never did. I would assume to play it safe and remove/replace them (especially since he's gone this far and the seals are relatively inexpensive in comparison) but I'm not sure
A lot of guys put welded cast iron in hot sand to cool it slowly and evenly. I thought you were also suppose to pean out cast iron welds to pack it into the pores of the metal and strengthen it????
Did you change wire when you were welding to the cast steel housing? I need to weld some steel mounts on a Ford 8.8 housing and have heard mixed things about the welding technique.
So, I'm trying to find the application form to become your best friend. Because I know there would be some definite benefits to having you're skills around. I offer pretty decent skills as well, some include making food, supplying drinks...
Waste of time and money. The dana 30s weak point is the tiny ring gear. Beef up the housing all you want, and add chromoly shafts, and a locker. Then you will tear the teeth off of your ring gear because the contact area is too small. Pickup a dana 60 for less than $300 and install it instead.
The heating is almost entirely to keep the cast housing from cracking due to stresses cause by sudden and uneven heating. Likewise the blanket helps it cool down more evenly and gently, as quick cooling can cause cracks also.
Awesome job installing that truss. I have a TMR truss on my 2008 JKU, couldn't be happier with it. TMR puts out some fantastic gear. Just ordered their 2.5 ton steering kit. We are happy to have them here in Ontario (Canada). TMR has a booth in the Unlimited Off Road show in Kentucky next week. Check them out.
Good stuff again Matt. I don't do my own work anymore but I really enjoy watching your get it done.
The reason for preheating the cast iron is because a rapid heat up and cool down in a small area could cause it to crack or become very brittle and likely to crack. its better to preheat the entire piece if you can rather than just the areas you are going to weld. if not, an alternative to preheating would be to weld in small increments and covering it while it cools (till you can touch it) between welds.
gonzala you are dumber than hell, you don’t have to heat the whole piece, only the area immediately around the weld area (2-3”) and let the heat soak into the areas around it!
The reason for pre and post heat is to ensure the molecular enhancement of the two dissimilar metals, thus encouraging them to become one with each other, and live happily ever after, the end.
not sure if the best way but when I have wielded on cast ( farm equipment or tractor parts ) I used a rag soaked in antifreeze to keep heat down and in one area. Also older cast I believe was lote more dense not as porous
One of your best videos dude.
Is it me or does this guy look like Hans Gruber and sound like Mr. Rogers?
how many percent will the strength be increased? i am going to mount far larger engine wighing approx. 2 times, please advise..
Thanks for making another great video! Was wondering how you set the caster angle? Looks like you eyeballed it, I'm guessing you can adjust with the y-arms, no?
Arthur Botham, Jr ya I didnt worry about that and there isnt much adjustment there but the adjustable arms will make up any difference
What wire did you use for it? Maybe missed it in the video
Would it help to keep the axle shafts inside to prevent heat warp?
At 2:38 it looks like you layed the grinder disc on the cord you should check to see if you accidentally cut the cord if you accidentally cut the cord it could shock you or kill you or catch you on fire.
Nick Hylman looks like he set the grip on the cord
Nick Hylman I always set them upside down
Wish I could find a good truss for TJ dana 35.
Awesome! I was wanting to do this and now I'm going to after watching this video. Quick question tho. Is there a kit for the rear as well?? I can't find one if so. Thank!!
Did you replace the seals.. they might not have made it through that much heat
You should fill in your craters when you finish a weld. It'll be Stronger and it looks nicer
That looks really cool! Doesnt that cause the axle it warp upwards when you weld on it? Those shaft housings are just extra heavy pipe thats been trued up by being line bored. If it pulls up just a .0001" it can cause tons of wear on your bearings and what not.
UnitCrane514 he mentioned several times that he took his time between welds to prevent it from warping. also there is no way that .0001" will do anything.
Jacob Lauritzen the only way i can see chance of warping is to run 24 inches of weld at once. the rest of that was song and dance for no real reason. speed kills, get your task done and over with.
what about the inner Cs that hold your ball joints and such, arent they the weak point for bending? would it be better to use a kit or make youe own truss setup that spans from the C to the pumpkin? or even C-C and than pumpkin welding is optional although id still weld to the pumpkin to tie it in better to the tubes
Are you going to be doing an anti wrap bar on this build?
Ltaldorein If I stick with the leafs then yes for sure.
the dana 44 front you have does not have a cast iron centersection. that is cast steel, much easier to weld then cast iron, you really didnt have to go through all the heating and wrapping with a blanket since it is just cast steel (but heating a bit is still good if youre going to mig cast steel) trust me if that was cast iron and you welded it up with regular mig wire and 75/25 it would of cracked.
is it a bad idea to use an arc welder with 7018 for welding axle tubes to the ford 8.8 diff housing ?
MrMrsregor no but 6010 might be a better choice for the root pass and even it out with some 7018 over top!
would you recommend Mig over stick for trusses?
Sometimes, I shield my eyes when watching welding on RUclips.
Chad Freznerdickson Why?
It’s good practice lol
Matt, I hope this isn't a silly question. I was wondering if it is possible to convert a Dana 30 to a Dana 44 front axle? Or would it just be cheaper to buy a front 44? Mind you I have a 2015 Willy's JK with ARB lockers front and rear. Is there any information you can share with me?
You can do 44 outers but that doesn't change the size of the ring gear...so no. Beef it up and rick it or pony up and spend some dough!
Thanks for the response. I might go the route you suggested. With the axle trusts and possibly some bigger knuckles.
does TMR customs not honor the %5 bleepinjeep discount anymore ?
i am ready to buy one of these suckers but cant get the code to work.!.
hmmm, it's been a while, I will get ahold of them and ask!
thank you ! their website shopping cart just said "Coupon code "BLEEPINJEEP" is not valid."
i am making frame stiffeners and installing long arms now. i plan to do the front axle while it is out of the jeep
no luck i guess... i was ready to order, but i can find other options :(
thanks for posting discounts. i just wish the companies you take the time to advertise for would uphold their end of the bargain
@@MrMrsregor i found that if they are running another discount it will invalidate other coupons
@@lanckie thanks for the tip. they were not running any other discounts when i was building my axle. i ended up finding a good deal on artec truss kit with jonny joints.
Awesome vid! Is there anyway I can truss my axle without gutting it out? It's been newly rebuilt with an ARB and what not and there's no way I can see myself redoing it?!??
+Kyle Dodder hmmm, I would so you probably can... just dont get it too hot or melt the seals.
+BleepinJeep cool thanks for the quick reply!!!
whats too hot? is the 400F pre heat going to be too hot? would it better the leave the oil in while heating to help even out heat internally or drain the diff oil to prevent it from transferring heat from the pumpkin to the gears and seals as much
what an excellent video. im gonna do the same to my 44 on my jk. this really helped
I saw the carrier was removed along with the pinion. did you also remove the seals to before you heated the pumpkin up? or could the seals withstand the heat?
Trying to figure this out myself, did you find an answer?
+Scotty T. no, never did. I would assume to play it safe and remove/replace them (especially since he's gone this far and the seals are relatively inexpensive in comparison) but I'm not sure
did you truss your dana 44 or find an answer on the seals?
likewise^
the seals will be toast after all of this heating and welding. plan to replace all seals and might as well do bearings too while you are in there.
you preheat cast iron because its high carbon, if it heats up fast and cools off fast it will crack
A lot of guys put welded cast iron in hot sand to cool it slowly and evenly. I thought you were also suppose to pean out cast iron welds to pack it into the pores of the metal and strengthen it????
Bout to make my 14 bolt trusses. Thank you
Just what I need!
Looks like you did a good job. Thank you for the video.
So will that kit mount a Dana 44 to a stock wrangler to suspension
Yep
@@bleepinjeep i ment will it mount to a stock tj suspension but my phone auto corrected it sorry
very good work Matt.you did a great job there...;-)
How thick is the truss?
great job matt!
Did you change wire when you were welding to the cast steel housing? I need to weld some steel mounts on a Ford 8.8 housing and have heard mixed things about the welding technique.
Eric Wallin
What MIG wire (size and grade) are you using to weld to the ductile? 70S-6?
Probably wont reply as the vid is 6 years old. But why didn’t you weld around the tubes at the pumpkin?
Who was on the phone?
pra3t0rian hopefully someone important!
Was that a Dana 44?
WHAT DOES THIS KIT COST?
Should of used a Artec Industries truss.
That's the one I was hoping to see as well/what I'm planning on using if I ever get around to going 1 tons on my xj
im sure plenty of people have asked this before, but what welder are you using?
Cole Warwick Its a millermatic 185
thanks!
What do you do for a living? Are you a welder?
Andrew Baker I have a youtube channel called BleepinJeep, its a full-time gig.
If that is form an 07 or newer it cast steel and not cast iron and much less prep and preheating need be done.
ah...here's that axle truss vid:)
So, I'm trying to find the application form to become your best friend. Because I know there would be some definite benefits to having you're skills around. I offer pretty decent skills as well, some include making food, supplying drinks...
it's cast steel not iron
do not let it cool down... in fact, i would heat the whole piece to at least 400
great video! when are you gong to give me welding lessons :-D
skull squadron bring some steel and a case of Dr. Pepper;)
Is that diet? Or regular? Haha
Could I do this installation without taking the ring, pinion and lockers out? I'm to lazy
doubt your axle seals would survive.
Hey Matt, what year and model axle is this? Sorry if I missed you saying it.
TJ Rubi so 03-06
that second pieces seems unnecessary
BEEF CAKE!!!!
Waste of time and money. The dana 30s weak point is the tiny ring gear. Beef up the housing all you want, and add chromoly shafts, and a locker. Then you will tear the teeth off of your ring gear because the contact area is too small.
Pickup a dana 60 for less than $300 and install it instead.
Jeromy Greiner that was a dana 44
If I could find a 2006 d 60 for 300 I would by 2 I see people selling 6-700