Absolutely brilliant video. I’ve only just now bought this thicknesser so and it looks like there are some minor modifications to mine compared to the one in this video but it is a excellent video, thorough and simply explained so when I need to change my blades this is the video I’m coming to.
I just finished servicing my Dewalt 733 planer by: 1. Installing new rollers 2. Installing new bearings 3. Installing new drive chains for the rollers (mine seemed stretched out, and prior to the repair I was getting some clicking) I finished tonight. I was able to get good results without changing the blades right now, so I’ll hang onto the new blades I purchased for a later date. Thank you for your thorough tutorial.
Hi Jerry , thanks for your comment, I'm glad you got your Dewalt 733 planer sorted out and found the video useful. I use mine often and the only occasional problem I've had is the wood sticking and rollers slipping. Waxing the plate helps, but takes time. I found silicone spray to be a quicker way to get things slipping again and making shallow cuts. If you wish, please subscribe to help get the word out and to help the channel grow. Thanks for stopping by and good luck with all your future endeavours. Stay safe
I know this is an old vid, but thanks for this. My planer was second hand, and it worked "OK", but after I started to give it a real run, it started miafeeding, skipping, jamming, etc. One of the bushings was totally torched. Appreciate you posting this.
I just bought a used dw733 from fb marketplace that had been left in a barn/shed for 5 years, so this video is of great help for me. I had already disassembled most of the planer, placing the surface rusted shafts and most of the bolts into some evaporust, when I decided to watch a video on it before tackling the gear and roller assemblies.
Your video is perfect. You were the only one I could find that could help me fix my DW 733. Turns out I had a broken sprocket and was able to fix it with your help with a cheap part from Amazon. Thank you so very much for putting your video out there for all of us to learn from, you are the best!
Man, I'm from Brazil, and this planer is extremely expensive for the average brazilian. Parts are very expensive as well. So, I want to thank you for posting this video and sharing your knowledge. I'm perfectly capable of fixing my own machine, but I don't know if I could pay someone else to do it. God bless you!
Good video. Also an additional tip on service If the flexible drive belt for the blades needs replacing, let the drive belt sit in hot water for a while and soften it up. It will become more pliable and realy easy to install
I am completely unable to install the new belt I have, even after the hot water trick. I got a new one on last year, but with tremendous difficulty. (and I wish I could figure out why the planer started chewing up belts a year or so ago, after being fine for at least 10 years before that. It seems like it shifts back and forth and hits things next to the pulleys, but I can't find any play in anything.)
@@pgav63 I bought a new Impact Driver, I managed to remove one screw, but after about fifty strikes on the other screw I gave up, it wouldn't budge. Why do they have to have such a high torque. You should be able to use screwdriver to release them.
Fantastic instructional video, I have had my machine for 16 years and has been mothballed for 14 years. Your video will enable me to give it a service before putting it back into full use. I’m just a bit worried about the motor bearings, hope they haven’t dried out.once again thanks for the very well presented video 👍👏👏👏😉
Thanks for a very precise and instructional video, without a lot of bull-crap added to make it too long and boring. If I could give you 6 thumbs up, I would.
Thank you for making this video. We bought a planer used and after using it a couple times, we are definitely needing to do all that you showed. And then it will be like new one for a very low price.
Thank you so much for creating this video! You totally saved me when one of my sprockets broke. I was able to completely rehab my old planer, based off the information in your video 😊
thanks very much from U.S.A. I have the dw734 which is very similar and have replaced the cutter head with a shelix type. I didn't take note of the gear and chain orientation so your video was helpful in getting that right in reinstallation.
Excellent video. Have just taken the old rollers out in less than 30 minutes by following your instructions. Awaiting delivery of the new rollers tomorrow. Just for interest my machine also had a spring within a spring under the right front bearing when looking from the gear/ chain end. I guess DeWalt must have fitted for some reason but I cannot figure out why. I have had this machine from new about 12 years ago and its a brilliant workhorse. I have put literally 1000's of meters of hardwood through it in that time. Well done and many thanks.
When ordering parts, get new bushing screws. They can get chewed up if vice grips are needed. Thank you for this video, my planer is running like new again! Super instruction!
Thank You! Excellent video. Like that you took the time for the whole thing since I can easily fast forward or return as needed. I inherited my dad's DW733. Using it to refinish a kitchen cutting board and noticed it had gouges in the bottom plate and left a couple ridges in the wood. I used a file to remove metal spikes below, then sanded the ridges off the cutting board. But it's time for a little maintenance on that thing, and this video is exactly what I needed. I just subscribed.
Hello Cember01, I appreciate your comment and i'm glad this video is reaching people and helping them with their rebuild. I was surprised to see the gouges on the bottom of the plate on my machine! I assume the previous owner worked it hard cutting rough lumber with embedded nails and screws. I'm glad you got your plate smooth again. Good luck with your DW733 maintenance and thank you for subscribing.
You're welcome and thank you for taking the time to comment. If you feel inclined please subscribe to help the channel reach more people. Stay safe and keep well.
Hi there. Super video squire. Like you I just purchased the same model second hand and lets just say its obviously had a tough life, probably building site/construction etc and the unit is looking worse for wear. I was searching YT for some tips on servicing it myself and came across this video so thank you. Mine is missing parts like screws, hex tool, the bed is scorded like yours, the rollers and blades have seen better days etc. So with the link you posted, I have sourced the spare parts and once arrived will be giving this planer a damn good service. My main issue when I got the DW733 was a) trying to wind down the bed was a real struggle (and yes I did release the brake) to around the 20mm mark and b) the wood keeps skipping as if the rollers are missing/sticking. Personally I think it could be the bushes/bearings like in your video where they have work out of round.
Thanks for your comment. The winding up/down of the cutter heads can be improved with dry PTFE spray to lubricate the threads. The final drop of the cutter heads may be restricted by the pre set wheel on the right back side ( if you're facing the feed side) set it to zero. Clean rollers gently with acetone. Glad I could be of help. Please subscribe if so inclined to help the channel grow. Good luck with the restoration.
A very detailed video that is the most comprehensive video on the DW733 I've seen. There looks to be very little difference between the Type 1 and the Type 2. The biggest change is the Cutter Block as the blade is retained by bolts that are fixed inside the Cutter and you only get the allen key and a spanner. I came across your video whilst looking for a video on cleaning the rollers. I think ill be having to do the same as you and replacing them.
Hello, and thank you for your thoughtful comments. I am glad this was helpful. If you remove the rollers you can always inspect them up close and give them a good clean. This is harder to do when they're installed. You could probably measure them with calipers to see how much they're worn out. You can get a measurement (to compare) off the ends where they are less used. In the past I found acetone did help to clean off the glaze and sap, however, it seems to remove some of the rubber, but that might not be a bad thing. Good luck with your restore and please subscribe to help the channel grow. I am here if you have questions.
@@dembydish I added myself to your list of subcribers after watching your Push paddle video, as they look like a very cost effective solution to safely using my table route and my other Planner Thicknesser that I bought after the Dewalt. The push pads that came with the router table are as much use as a chocolate fire guard. they have no gripwhat so ever.
@@Simon_W74 Thanks for subscribing. I find the push paddles to be excellent and feel good in the hand. You can exert a good downwards pressure if needed. Wish I'd made them sooner! Best of luck.
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ Fantastic tutorial, excellent knowledge and easy to follow step by step instructions. I’ve just purchased one so this will come in very handy, thank you for sharing!
Thanks Thomas glad I could help. I'd be grateful if you could subscribe to help the channel grow. Good luck with your upcoming work on your DeWalt 733. Keep well.
I believe the roller bearings are Babbitt bearings and do not need grease although not harm in using it. I am having trouble with my feed and will be looking at roller wear soon. Video was helpful.
Went to use mine the other day and if was making noise would not feed the wood. I know how to go thru the process. Thanks for taking the time. I will get my manual and order the parts.
Start with a good clean of the rollers and lubricate the tables. I use silicone spray on the tables these days (keep it off the rollers!) and see if that helps. Check the drive belt too. Thanks for your comment and please subscribe. Good luck.
When tightening bolts in a line sequence, they need to be tightened in an alternating sequence starting from one end, and then moving to the opposite end; working toward the middle. Repeat. They should be torque down to 50”lbs. 😃 Great tutorial!
You're welcome Walter. If you feel so inclined, please subscribe to help the channel grow and get info out to help others. Keep safe and thank you for your comment.
I'm doing a complete tear-down and rebuild on a DW733 Type 1. I find that if I tighten the roller brackets screws to be set; i.e., hand tight, one roller is very difficult to turn and the other will not turn at all. This, of course, before I put back the gear-chain assembly. I tried it out anyway and it resulted in quickly melting the synthetic belt. Yes, I did put the bushings in with the wide side parallel to the plane bed and lubed everything with a good grease. Thoughts?
I have a similar issue and have burnt out 2 motors :( The first, I thought due to my inexperience. But after the second, I'm not so sure. The rollers are not easy to turn at all. Debating whether it's worth a third motor.
Hello Keith, I'm so glad to hear you have had success with your DW733. I'm glad I could help. Please subscribe if you feel inclined to help the channel grow. Thank you for your comment.
HI Angelo, thank you for your comment, and I hope the video helps if you want to undertake any of these maintenance challenges. I haven't changed the brushes yet, but I expect it is just a matter of unscrewing a small cover plate removing the old ones (probably just pop out as they are spring loaded) and pop the new ones in. Hope this helps and please subscribe to the channel to help it grow and get the info out to help others. Good luck.
Thanks for sharing much help as the manual has no information regarding this. How long did you go before you had the change the rollers? Ive had my planer for 1 month now and its not feeding, i will be taking it apart to see what the issue is?
A while back mine was having trouble feeding as well, turned out that a fairly sturdy splinter had been lodged in (and I had failed to see it). It came loose when I was blowing out some dust with a compressed air gun :) Not to imply that you missed something, like I did. Just food for thought. Hope it resolves!
Hello Robert, the two tables and the inner table should be in line with each other, providing a flat surface for the wood to traverse across. A straight edge or long (spirit) level can be used. Adjustment nuts are under the outer tables so its a bit trial and error. Thanks for your comment.
Great video. I got as far as removing the rollers and discovered they are shot. Lots of cracks on them. Checked Amazon and ebay but no luck. Where can I find these rollers?
Hello, the rollers are getting harder to find as the machines get older. I got my rollers on eBay but I see there are only one or two left now and they're expensive. I found this outlet that might be able to help you. I suggest you contact them and find out what it is they're selling (new or reconditioned, country of manufacture etc.) But.. this may be the last chance saloon on this item. Service centers might be worth a try. I hope this helps you, let me know how you get on. Thanks for your comment. www.sparepartsworld.co.uk/product/285940-00
excellent and through video. I recently purchased a used DW733 like this one but I need to replace the 4 pillar posts(due to rust) is there an easy way to do this?
Clean them. Soak paper towels in white vinegar and tightly wrap the posts. Soak for a few hours (or more) and remove the paper towel. Clean the rust off with steel wool. Repeat as necessary (depending on the amount of rust). Once the rust is removed (90% or more) oil or grease the pillars. This can be done with everything still assembled but you will have to work on the exposed sections first, then spray some WD40 or penetrating oil into the part that slides over the pillars and adjust the height to get to the remaining portion of the pillars.
I could not get the gears out due to the threaded adjusting rod being in the way so I cranked the moveable unit completely off the base. I don't know if that is wrong but I did not know what else to do... On my unit the bearings were rounded into an oblong just like yours. I was able to order replacements. My planer is 20 years old and after many thousands of board feet planed, it was no surprise to me that they were destroyed
Hi Denbydish, thanks for the great video. I am going to replace both of my feed rollers and bearings but noticed that I have a total of five springs. I have one smaller spring that fits inside of the larger springs. It didn't appear that during your video, you have this. Wouldn't this make for more tension pushing up on one side of one roller?
Hi Tina, I've never seen a fifth spring installed. If you have four matching ones and you're replacing the rollers, I'd be inclined to leave it out. It might have been added to help with a worn roller. Short of testing the compressive strength of the 4 springs, it's going to be guess work I'm afraid. Thanks for your comment, and please subscribe.
If you look at the exploded diagram of the machine, the fifth (inside) spring is there - it means it's there by design. I have found one in my DW733-QS Type 11. I guess its purpose is to balance some dynamic forces in the pulley mechanism.
Hi. Thanks for this very thorough walk through. I have a question. How warm (or hot) does the upper drive shaft pulley (the smaller pulley) get on your machine? I just had a belt fail on my because it melted a little bit. I pulled off the belt and ran the planer without belt but this pulley still gets quite hot, almost to the point where you can't touch it without burning your finger. Checked the brushes but they both look fine.
Hi The stripper, if the pulley getting hot is attached directly to the motor, unless it is a failing bearing, which would make noise, it must be drawing heat from the shaft coming from the motor to which it is attached. Excessive heat from the motor is likely failing/shorting motor windings. This is not good news as it is the rotor or stator copper windings shorting. This is usually due to the wiring insulation breaking down and the wires touching or electricity arcing across. Under these conditions the motor will likely get worse, and will stop working. It needs replacing or rewinding. However, this is just conjecture as I haven't seen the machine. At this point it might be worth getting it looked at by Dewalt service. Hopes this helps. Thanks for your comment.
@@dembydish Yes this was my suspicion as well. I rented an identical planer since I needed to get on with my work and on this one the small pulley also gets very warm. Maybe it's just how these planers operate? Have you checked this on your machine?
@@Thestripper1 Hello again, it could be a common problem on these machines after a certain amount of prolonged use/mileage. I had a DeWalt hand planer that would heat up as soon as it was plugged in and finally stopped working. It was shorted out windings. My DW733 is OK, never had a problem with melted belts, but never checked the pulley. But, I don't use it for projects requiring prolonged use, just DIY stuff these days. Hope you get it sorted. Thanks for your comment.
@@dembydish Well, if you do turn your planer on one of these days, even if it's just to touch up a small piece, just touch the pulley after the machine has fully stopped to check it. Maybe they all get hot there?
Awesome video. Do you recall where you sourced your rollers and bearings? Do you happen to have part numbers? I am having a hard time tracking down rollers for the dw733 in the US, but can find the rollers for the dw734 easily. Are they possibly the same roller with a different part number? Thank you!
I have purchased second handed thickneser a wek ago or so and noticed an issue with feed out. I have dissasembled the parts as per video and noticed, blocks were all good but both rollers were worn but not too badly. I have added an extra washers under the screws when put these four blocks back in. It helped to grip a piece of wood on the way in and out but I still need to sharpen both blades. However my idea is to use a lathe and make metal rollers to avoid future damage to them. What you guys think about it?
Since making this video I have discovered that spraying the in-feed /out-feed tables with silicone is a good way to reduce the friction of the wood. It is quicker to apply than wax and can be done more frequently. You must not get it on the rollers, using a cloth to prevent this helps. The rollers should be cleaned periodically to get rid of sap build up. I have used acetone for this. Rubber Renue is a product which claims to restore rubber making it grip better. Not sure about metal rollers as I think they wouldn't grip and possibly bruise the wood? Thanks for your comment.
Good vid, informative enough. Got a King 13" planner. Had it 24 years bought new and don't use it often. So while the blades are on vacation getting sharpened I thought maybe I should grease the bushings. There was Zero wear on them but some fresh grease should gain another 20+ years. Pretty sure after that a person won't be worrying about anything.
Very handy video . full marks. I do need some help. I cannot raise any height as the handle allows me to turn about 2 full turns and go no more. The release handle is up . Any ideas please
Hello Jason, thanks for your question. If you look down the comments to a question from Teen Rage, I had some suggestions. Try those first and let me know if it helps. M
@@dembydish I think that the large springs are the problem. Do you know how to replace them and of course putting back together. I've ordered new ones ready. Thank you for all your help.
Hi looking for some advice please, the 2 chains on my dw 733 have at least 15mm play on them would you know if I need new chains. Thank you for any help you can give. Derek
Hi - I've got the DW733 & am trying to replace the blades. It looks like there's been a recent change to the blade housing though. When you expose your blades you're looking at the blade surface with 8 visible bolts. My machine has covered these with a guard of some sort that makes the whole mechanism into a cylinder. Although the guard has two allen key screws in it I've not yet worked out how to get it off. Have you seen this at all?
Hello, I am only familiar with the older model in the video. Sounds like you've got to remove the cover to access the blades. This should be possible and explained in the manual. You could probably download one from the internet if you don't have one. Sorry can't be of more help. Thank you for your comment.
@@dembydish Thanks - I've manage to sort it. The "cover" isn't actually a cover - its a complete new design. The old design has the blades bolted onto the spindle. The new design is difficult to describe but I'll leave a note in case others are reading this. You need to do two things: 1) The two buried screws have their heads nestled into the holes in the blade. When you undo them you're gradually easing the blade out 2) Before you do this though you need to turn each of the little bolts that you can see side on. Counter-intuitively you need to do these up. This moves them into the retaining bar and makes it narrower and so frees pressure on the blade They really have made this into a mind puzzle :-)
Glad you sorted it out. And thank you for leaving a 'how to' on removing the blades, this will help others I'm sure. Thanks for subscribing. Keep well.
I have the same planer, and I'm so envious of your guilds. The chrome plate on mine is so rusty and I've always kept it in my utility room. I've had to clean mine with aluminum foil and 3 and 1 oil. But they keep rusting when they get dry. Thanks for the vid. Ive been trying to figure out how to adjust the hight evenous threaded rods. I've always had to plane and reverse anything I plane. Seems one side is a hair lower than the other. Any ideas? Thanks
Hi Peter, I can only think of unscrewing the blade/motor housing off the rods (assuming that is possible) and reinstalling the high side with a turn before the other side. Alternatively, there are two cogs and a chain that connect to the handle. Removing the chain and adjusting one side then reassembly? Last resort might be to adjust the blades. Would need to take a look at the machine again to be sure. Thanks for your comment and please subscribe if you feel inclined to help the channel grow.
@@dembydish Thanks so much. I was actually able to remove the bottom plate revealing the chain height adjustment. What happened was the gear on the one side was slipping. Therefore one side went up while other side spun. I removed chain and gears off the threaded rod, cleaned, oiled everything. Adjusted everything to even, put it back together and now works. I'm going to get new chrome shaft's. Too expensive a tool to not have it working perfectly. Thanks again for the motivation,,👍
Hi Denbydish, I recently got this machine but seem to have an issue feeding wood, in that I have to push it through. It seems that the anti-kickback fingers are too low compared to rollers. Is this a known issue? Should I try and fix myself and if so, are they adjustable in height? Or could it be that the part is defective and I should get a new one? Thanks in advance for your reply.
Hello Julien, I get the same problem from time to time. As far as I am aware the anti-kickback fingers are not adjustable. Assuming your machine isn't new,. I'd suggest you clean the rollers by wiping with a cloth and some acetone, do the same to the plate/bed which the wood slides across. Then get some silicone spray and apply fairly liberally to the plate taking care not to get it on the rollers. Wipe away excess with a cloth. This might solve the problem. Alternatively, use bees wax (soft furniture polish wax) on the plate and buff. Basically, try to increase the grip of the rollers and minimise friction on the wood. The 'fingers' are there to hold the wood down on the plate to stop it jumping about, if the surface of the wood is rough they can drag and bind up and may require pushing through anyway. Hope this helps. Thanks for your comment.
@@dembydish thanks for the response. I will try that and hope it solves the issue as it just doesn't seem normal the amount of force necessary to push wood past those anti-kickback fingers
@@Monedge Let me know how you get on. Also.... Unplug the machine when working on it, and you may need to start it a few times to move the rollers for full cleaning access. Hope it helps.
Hi denbydish, thank you for sharing such interesting videos. I would appreciate sme help, I do have a DeWalt DW733 and the rollers are now blocked, they stopped working and the wood doesn't get into the machine, any idea how I could fix this? Thank you very much in advance!
Hello Fabio, when the motor is operating everything should work simultaneously. The motor drives the blades (via a belt) and the rollers via a series of metal gears and chains. If the motor operates and the rollers do not... then the linkage/chains are the best place to look. It could be a broken chain or gear. The video shows how to access these parts. Once exposed you could turn on the machine to see what is turning. If the gears and chains are good, correctly fitted to the shafts but not turning, the problem is likely inside the motor itself and it would need dissembling. That is beyond the scope of this video, i'd suggest getting it repaired by an approved Dewalt service center. I hope that helps and please subscribe if you feel inclined. Good luck.
Hello, thanks for the video. I just bought this very unit used and found its missing the adjustment chain. I cannot find any documentation on how it is routed with the center shaft that has the two sprockets. There is no chains available online either they are all discontinued so I plan to buy a whole length of chain locally and make my own. Can you supply me a pic of the bottom under the cover (if you have it) of the chain? Thanks.
Hello, thanks for your question. I made this video awhile ago, so the exact layout of the machine escapes me, although I did take it apart fairly exstensively. As I recall the blade height (cutter assembly) adjustment happens under the machine and is not shown in the video. Is that what you want to see, a picture of how the two threaded bars (which the cutter head rides on) are linked?
@@dembydish yes. The very underside was not shown and no manuals or videos online show it. The only video I found that shows a very short glimpse of it shows a cover that I'm missing. Here is a pic of the bottom. The two threaded shafts have sprockets on them and then there are these two sprockets in the center on a bracket. DW733 bottom with chain missing. imgur.com/a/WT6KhWK
@@Free76Thinker OK, it seems a view of the bottom of my machine, complete and fully functioning would be useful to you. I'll see what I can do next week and get back to you. Keep well stay safe.
@@dembydish thanks but I'm sure I'll figure it out before then, I'm actually motivated this weekend, took it apart last night and am putting it back together together today.
Hi Marcella, there's a tool hire shop where I live that takes them, and they're sharpened in Colchester. Your local tool hire is a good place to enquire. Thank you for your comment and please subscribe if you feel do inclined. Stay safe.
Fantastic instructional video,I have same Dewalt 733,and I have same problems,with rollers,but because I have 7 years ago stroke,I cant use very well my fingers,and I want to ask you,if I you accept of corse,can I send you my planer for repair,please? Thank you Gabriel
I received my new DW733 yesterday. when you switch it on it starts very loud but also flashes where the air vents are at the end of the motor, is this normal I don't fancy seeing it burst into flames.
Hi Paul, it sounds like the brushes are making the sparking. This happens to some degree. I'd keep an eye on it though. I'd expect the brushes (carbon blocks that form the circuit with the rotating armature) are settling in and the sparking will reduce over time. If it gets worse or starts to smoke, then switch it off and return it. They are loud, wear ear defenders for sure. Hope this helps, and please subscribe. Keep safe.
@@dembydish Yes I think you are right and I contacted the company and they are replacing the unit, thankyou for your response. I have never used one before, so wasn't at all sure.
Hello, I purchased the blades on Ebay in the UK. If memory serves they were about £30. They come in sets of 2. You can buy replacement blades from China on Ebay. They are currently £16.99. No idea how good they are. It's possible they are the same ones I bought, but sold through a UK distributer. The advantage is there was no need to wait for international delivery. The rollers also came from Ebay. They were available singly or as a pair costing £54.99 a set. I got the bearings online at partshopdirect.co.uk £3.99 each. Hope this helps, thanks for your comment. Please subscribe to help the channel grow if you feel so inclined. Best of luck.
If it won't lower down towards the bottom of it's travel, it may be resting on the depth stop. Look for a silver wheel sticking out of the back at the bottom. Otherwise it may need lubrication to free it. Brush threads clean and apply to the threads of the rods on both sides inside the housing in the center below the handle (on one side). Hope this helps. Thanks for your comment and please subscribe to help the channel grow.
@@TeeRagePhotography Also, if its been unused for a while, it might have seized up. A little WD40 will help to free it up. Wipe threads clean after and apply some oil. WD40 is not a suitable lubricant, but may help get it moving. Thanks for Subscribing.
Hi denbydish! I have watched with great interest your video, as I have also the same machine you show. I have a problem with it: I have disassembled it as you did in your video (had to buy an impact screwdriver to free the rods!) and found everything was fine. But if I want to remove a small thickness (1 or 2 mm) the rollers do not touch the wood and I have to push the strip myself; if instead I lower the head so that the rollers act, 5/6 mm of material is removed. The rollers and cylinder of the slat are in the same plane, but with respect to the slat itself (when it comes down), there is a difference of about 3/4 mm in height that makes the cut too big. Do you have any idea how to solve the matter? I would gratify! (as already did a few days ago per PayPal)
Hello Paolo, I have been away for a couple of weeks, hence my delay in replying. It seems to me if the cutter blades are removing wood and the rollers are not touching the wood (pushing it through) then the blades are not set correctly in the cutting block/cylinder. I would guess they are sticking out to far. The correct blade adjustment can be achieved by using the setting jig provided with the machine: a) Are the blades the correct ones for this machine as per manufacturers specification? a) Have your set up/installed the 2 blades using the jig? I'd expect the rollers to be a bit lower than the blades so they can grip the wood to push it through. It should be possible for the rollers to pass the wood through the planer (under the blades) without making a cut. If you need to set the blades follow that section in the video, but pay attention to the way the jig (alignment tool) is used, it can be a bit tricky to get it correctly placed. Let me know how you get on. Thank you for your comment.
@@dembydish Hi Matthew, thank you very much for your answer, that arrived in perfect time! (tomorrow I would have brought the machine to dewalt service, with the relative costs that are not cheap!). Tomorrow I will check it out if the blades are sticking out too far (quite sure). The machine it was practically new and am pretty sure that are the original blades. I will let you know once I try to adjust them to correct position. Also you should have also received a message from a pal ... ;)
@@dembydish Hello Matthew! further to your tip, I found out that the problem was in fact the adjustment of the blades (the nuts were so loose, that I wonder if the blades that I wonder if the blades could have been dislodged by the rotation). I realigned them and set to correct height and now the plane is working great!! Thank you very much for your support and outreach work
@@pgav63 Hi Paolo, wow, that could have been dangerous! I am so glad you found the problem in time and were able to fix it. Thank you for your donation to the channel and my best wishes to you and your future woodworking projects. Matthew.
NEED HELP Great video, was hoping this would be my problem as well. I have a DW733 with very little use. The problem is stuttering and leaves rollers marks and a small indentation from the blades. So after a DIY with no solution, I brought it to an authorized Dewalt service center and they have replaced, rollers, bushings, drive chains and bed. The problem of stuttering is STILL there. Hoping someone out there might have an ANSWER. Thanks
Hi Piazza, I am sorry this took so long but I missed the question. I hope you've got it fixed by now. I have found even with the replacements I made in this video, at times the machine still sticks and the rollers leave the rubber marks. I have minimized this by always working with a clean metal bed under the rollers. From time to time I clean it with acetone to remove sap etc. Nowadays, I prefer to use silicone spray instead of wax as a lubricant. It is very slippery and helps the wood glide through. I apply it from a spray can onto a cloth and wipe the in-feed, bed and out-feed trays. Let it dry. Spraying directly onto the bed is asking for trouble as it sprays a cloud and you don't want it on the rollers! Next, make sure your roller in-feed and out-feed trays are aligned with the bed. I use a long straight edge. A spirit level would do at a pinch. If the feed tables are set higher than the bed the wood will bind. Level or a little under is best. Lastly, I don't make deep cuts only 0.5 to 1.0mm usually. This helps the machine pass the wood through. It takes longer but helps stop tear out and provided smoother cuts. For construction work, perhaps this is too time consuming, but for detailed work, it stops ruining a nice piece of wood with rubber skid marks. I hope this helps. Thank you for your question and please subscribe to help the channel grow. Best of luck and stay safe.
In the real world I think we are expecting too much of the machine. If we hand plane a piece of timber we are looking at removing a few thousands of an inch to get a good finish. I was disappointed with the machine at the start off but now have more knowledge, very small cuts are the best, it’s not a milling machine. Have a go and let me us know how you get on 😉
Great video. Any reason why you didn't use lock tight on the bolts holding the roller bracket? I think in the video there was some traces of old lock tight on the bolts.
If its a nylon type it can be old age. Usually its either something jamming or some sort of structural weakness or metal fatigue. Hard to say for sure without looking.
Actually, not that much, I use it on a project by project basis. At the moment I'm building some garden gates. I purchased this machine used and it was in very bad condition, so I decided to get it working properly. It works great now, and I have built a mobile stand for it. Thanks for your comment.
@@dembydish what you did is very useful. It's a unique opportunity, for someone intrested, to see the "guts" of the machine. I noticed everything is cast iron or cast aluminum which is very good, comparing to some other machines that all sprockets are plastic. I'm between this and Makita 2012 opponent. Any hint is welcome. Thanks again for uploading .
@@quebraho Actually this is my second one of this machine. I had one when I lived in the States and bought another when I moved back to the UK. Don't know the Makita but DeWalt has a good reputation and I find it works well. The only drawback is the depth guage on the front right side which is difficult to read through the plastic lens, and the material removal guage which is in the front is a mechanical design and is not very reliable. I tend to measure the wood with a digital caliper. I'd suggest looking at both and comparing the thickness guages and the ease of cranking the cutter assembly up and down. The DeWalt crank threads are exposed to sawdust and need wiping and lubrication now and again. Good luck.
Good question! Does Dewalt specify what their proposed rebuild consists of? Is it replacement of worn parts ie. rollers, bearings, blade replacement? You can replace a lot of parts for $220. On the other hand the work will probably have a guarantee. My advice is to be sure if the work needs doing by inspecting the machine. Many feed problems can be resolved by cleaning rollers and lubrication of the feed tables and don't necessitate a rebuild. Hope this helps, please subscribe if you feel inclined. Thank for your comment.
Hi Noelle, you're welcome and thank you for your comment. If you feel so inclined please subscribe to help the channel grow. Stay safe in these difficult times.
@@elidiodossantos1106 Hi Elido, could be a short in the windings. The motor getting warm is normal, but if it heats up after little use, it is possibly drawing too much current and it should be looked at. If it is new, or under guarantee I'd be thinking about returning it for replacement or repair.
The next time you need new blades. I just ordered a new set and will just sharpen the old ones and keep doing this until it dies. The "shelix cutter head is a fine item, but not for the cost in my opinion. Maybe someday I will order a set on one of my other planers but not on this older one.
Hi Denbydish, Congratulations. You managed to make the best video. I hope your work will be rewarded. I recently bought a Dewalt 733. I haven't used it yet. I saw in some videos that the device does not pull the wood well. The roller that pushes the wood is not positioned lower than the blades. Can it come like this from the factory? From what I saw in your video, I think the problem was the deformed roller bearing? In one of the videos, I saw that someone put spacers on the 4 screws that fix the roller. What is your opinion? Do you think it's ok? ruclips.net/video/guclZKlecA4/видео.html Waiting for your answer.
Hello Gabriela, thank you for your comment. I don't think the machine is designed to enable lowering the rollers in some way, and i'm not advocating modifications in this regard. I can see a potential feeding problem too if there's too much downward pressure as the wood will be pinned to the feed plate. A kind of balance is needed here. That said, In order for the machine to work the rollers need to be slightly lower than the blades in order to grip and feed the wood. This is the way they are designed to be at the factory. However, the rollers can wear after many years of service and may not grip the wood as efficiently as when they were new. This can result in poor feeding and binding. Should they wear to the point they no longer reach the wood then they should be replaced! I would suggest that you test your machine first to see how it operates. Cleaning the rollers is a good place to start on any used machine. Use alcohol or 'rubber renew' if available may help. Potentially a light sanding to deglaze the surface although I've never tried it. I have found the most common problem regarding feeding is the wood being 'uneven' (varying in thickness, being twisted or with obstructions or knots of some sort) on the side that is placed on the table, this will snag and cause binding. Ideally the underside of the wood being thickness planed should have been run over a flatbed planer. This would enable a much smoother operation. But in general construction work this is seldom done. Another problem is the table gripping the wood from sap or marks left on the feed plate. I always clean the plate with alcohol, wax or use silicone spray and spread it around with a microfiber cloth and let it dry. This helps, but I generally spray it again if the wood starts to bind. If the wood is rough or sticky you may need to silicone the plate more often if the wood starts to feed less efficiently. Lastly, make shallow cuts so as not to over burden the motor. This takes more time but potentially saves your machine and blades. Always check the blades are set/installed correctly on a used machine too. Anyway, I'd start there an see what happens before modifying the machine. Hope this helps. Good luck.
this is very helpful! I did subscribe. I just put together the planer as you described after having it apart for weeks, waiting for replacement parts. I have a question about the rollers though. If I tighten the brackets all the way down that hold the roller bushings, the springs have no function. Are you supposed to use those brackets to adjust the rollers? perhaps not putting them all the way down so there is some play and they actually push down on the wood when it is going through?
Hi Bassbabe, this is a very good question and one I am not sure I can answer definitively without tearing into the planer again. It seems to make sense that the rollers have some upwards movement as the wood passes underneath to allow for deeper cuts. This would seem to be a function of the springs compressing. However, as far as i know the brackets should be tightened down to secure the rollers keeping them level to the cutter and to stop them working loose. I assume there should be some movement in the springs if only a millimetre or two (the cuts are generally light) and some slight compression in the rubber rollers. When I disassembled my machine the brackets were tightened down and I replaced them the same way. The only other thought I have is that the bushings can be fitted incorrectly (turned through 90 degrees) and this would likely compress the spring more. I assume your are reinstalling the original springs, the replacement bushings are the same size and the machine worked OK at some point previously. I'd be interested to know what you did in the end and if your planer feeds OK. Sorry I can't be of more help. Thank you for your question and keep safe.
@@dembydish I replaced the springs on one of the rollers because when I took it apart the spring was fully compressed. I put the new bushings in with no play on the sides, that is, how you showed in the video, and they are level with the surface they are pushed into. The rollers are a bit old, so they don't pull fully like I think they should, but they weren't working at all before because one of the sprockets was broken in half, so the whole gear setup for the rollers was jammed. That and a bushing was frozen onto the roller that had the broken sprocket, so I had to take a torch to it and skillfully pound on it to get it off. now that I had the blades sharpened and got it all together, it works, and the rollers roll, but just like I said, because they are old, they slip a bit. and I also am still getting used to just how much at a time I should be taking off. It seems a certain depth and the rollers do their job. thank you so much for your answer! I watched some parts of your video multiple times as I have worked on the planer, and it has been super helpful.
Even though DeWalt names them as blades in the User Manual, there spares manual and online spares descriptions ? They even call it a Blade Clamp Bracket.
@@MrStevekirkman I apologize if I offended you or anyone else as I have never seen a manual. In over 40 years in the commercial cabinet and fixture business I have never heard them referred to as blades only planer and jointer knives. If DeWalt calls their knives, blades, then I guess when referring to DeWalt I will try to call them blades. Interesting that they call them knife gauges for setting the knives/blades. I guess then they also refer to bushings as bearings? I just finished rebuilding my 733 and the parts house also calls them bushings although you call them bearings. I guess DeWalt tries to confuse consumers. Maybe I am just confused.
@@dead4life469 Absolutely no problem. You didn't offend at all. It just goes to show that even manufacturers get confused on occasions ! so we mortals stand no chance. Thanks for your reply and best wishes.
Absolutely brilliant video. I’ve only just now bought this thicknesser so and it looks like there are some minor modifications to mine compared to the one in this video but it is a excellent video, thorough and simply explained so when I need to change my blades this is the video I’m coming to.
I just finished servicing my Dewalt 733 planer by:
1. Installing new rollers
2. Installing new bearings
3. Installing new drive chains for the rollers (mine seemed stretched out, and prior to the repair I was getting some clicking)
I finished tonight. I was able to get good results without changing the blades right now, so I’ll hang onto the new blades I purchased for a later date.
Thank you for your thorough tutorial.
Hi Jerry , thanks for your comment, I'm glad you got your Dewalt 733 planer sorted out and found the video useful. I use mine often and the only occasional problem I've had is the wood sticking and rollers slipping. Waxing the plate helps, but takes time. I found silicone spray to be a quicker way to get things slipping again and making shallow cuts. If you wish, please subscribe to help get the word out and to help the channel grow. Thanks for stopping by and good luck with all your future endeavours. Stay safe
I know this is an old vid, but thanks for this. My planer was second hand, and it worked "OK", but after I started to give it a real run, it started miafeeding, skipping, jamming, etc. One of the bushings was totally torched. Appreciate you posting this.
Thanks for your comment. I still get fairly regular comments from people like yourself. Glad to be help.
I just bought a used dw733 from fb marketplace that had been left in a barn/shed for 5 years, so this video is of great help for me. I had already disassembled most of the planer, placing the surface rusted shafts and most of the bolts into some evaporust, when I decided to watch a video on it before tackling the gear and roller assemblies.
Your video is perfect. You were the only one I could find that could help me fix my DW 733. Turns out I had a broken sprocket and was able to fix it with your help with a cheap part from Amazon. Thank you so very much for putting your video out there for all of us to learn from, you are the best!
You are most welcome. Thank you for your kind comment, glad I could help.
Man, I'm from Brazil, and this planer is extremely expensive for the average brazilian. Parts are very expensive as well. So, I want to thank you for posting this video and sharing your knowledge. I'm perfectly capable of fixing my own machine, but I don't know if I could pay someone else to do it. God bless you!
Hi Victor, many thanks for your comment. Whatever you decide I hope you get you machine working and planing wood soon. Good luck.
Good video. Also an additional tip on service
If the flexible drive belt for the blades needs replacing, let the drive belt sit in hot water for a while and soften it up. It will become more pliable and realy easy to install
Thank you for a very good tip.
I am completely unable to install the new belt I have, even after the hot water trick. I got a new one on last year, but with tremendous difficulty. (and I wish I could figure out why the planer started chewing up belts a year or so ago, after being fine for at least 10 years before that. It seems like it shifts back and forth and hits things next to the pulleys, but I can't find any play in anything.)
What a superb video. I have a number of De Walt tools and I have found they tighten screws so tight even an impact Screwdriver would not release them.
I'm getting the impression, they only want their service centers to repair them.
I bought a Bahco impact screwdriver and could release all of them
@@pgav63 I bought a new Impact Driver, I managed to remove one screw, but after about fifty strikes on the other screw I gave up, it wouldn't budge. Why do they have to have such a high torque. You should be able to use screwdriver to release them.
Great video! New owner of a used DW733 here, i found this video very helpful in troubleshooting a pulling issue with my machine.
You are very welcome.
Fantastic instructional video, I have had my machine for 16 years and has been mothballed for 14 years. Your video will enable me to give it a service before putting it back into full use. I’m just a bit worried about the motor bearings, hope they haven’t dried out.once again thanks for the very well presented video 👍👏👏👏😉
Thanks for a very precise and instructional video, without a lot of bull-crap added to make it too long and boring. If I could give you 6 thumbs up, I would.
Thank you for your kind comment, much appreciated.
Thank you for making this video. We bought a planer used and after using it a couple times, we are definitely needing to do all that you showed. And then it will be like new one for a very low price.
You are welcome. Thank you for leaving a comment. Let me know how you get on.
Thank you so much for creating this video! You totally saved me when one of my sprockets broke. I was able to completely rehab my old planer, based off the information in your video 😊
This is a fantastic video. Thank for for the thorough walkthrough. I just bought this planer, it’s 20 years old and need to service it
You are Welcome. Glad to be of help.
Thank you Sir for making the video. I only came here to replace my knives, but watched the entire video! Great and thorough explanation!
You are very welcome and thank you for your comment. Have a pleasant weekend.
thanks very much from U.S.A. I have the dw734 which is very similar and have replaced the cutter head with a shelix type. I didn't take note of the gear and chain orientation so your video was helpful in getting that right in reinstallation.
Excellent video. Have just taken the old rollers out in less than 30 minutes by following your instructions. Awaiting delivery of the new rollers tomorrow. Just for interest my machine also had a spring within a spring under the right front bearing when looking from the gear/ chain end. I guess DeWalt must have fitted for some reason but I cannot figure out why. I have had this machine from new about 12 years ago and its a brilliant workhorse. I have put literally 1000's of meters of hardwood through it in that time. Well done and many thanks.
You are welcome. Interesting that some people have found the extra spring. Good luck with the roller installation and thank you for your comment.
A well documented video, watched it all the way through without skipping.
Thanks Alan, i'm glad you were keen enough to watch it through. Thanks for leaving a comment and hope you'll subscribe. Keep safe.
When ordering parts, get new bushing screws. They can get chewed up if vice grips are needed.
Thank you for this video, my planer is running like new again!
Super instruction!
Trade them out with cap screws that use an allen wrench. 8/32 thread pitch if I remember.
Thank You! Excellent video. Like that you took the time for the whole thing since I can easily fast forward or return as needed. I inherited my dad's DW733. Using it to refinish a kitchen cutting board and noticed it had gouges in the bottom plate and left a couple ridges in the wood. I used a file to remove metal spikes below, then sanded the ridges off the cutting board. But it's time for a little maintenance on that thing, and this video is exactly what I needed. I just subscribed.
Hello Cember01, I appreciate your comment and i'm glad this video is reaching people and helping them with their rebuild. I was surprised to see the gouges on the bottom of the plate on my machine! I assume the previous owner worked it hard cutting rough lumber with embedded nails and screws. I'm glad you got your plate smooth again. Good luck with your DW733 maintenance and thank you for subscribing.
Very helpful and informative video; no music - thank you for that. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge, appreciated.
You're welcome and thank you for taking the time to comment. If you feel inclined please subscribe to help the channel reach more people. Stay safe and keep well.
@@dembydish I felt so inclined and subscribed earlier. Thanks for your good wishes, and the same to you.
Hi there. Super video squire. Like you I just purchased the same model second hand and lets just say its obviously had a tough life, probably building site/construction etc and the unit is looking worse for wear. I was searching YT for some tips on servicing it myself and came across this video so thank you. Mine is missing parts like screws, hex tool, the bed is scorded like yours, the rollers and blades have seen better days etc. So with the link you posted, I have sourced the spare parts and once arrived will be giving this planer a damn good service. My main issue when I got the DW733 was a) trying to wind down the bed was a real struggle (and yes I did release the brake) to around the 20mm mark and b) the wood keeps skipping as if the rollers are missing/sticking. Personally I think it could be the bushes/bearings like in your video where they have work out of round.
Thanks for your comment. The winding up/down of the cutter heads can be improved with dry PTFE spray to lubricate the threads. The final drop of the cutter heads may be restricted by the pre set wheel on the right back side ( if you're facing the feed side) set it to zero. Clean rollers gently with acetone. Glad I could be of help. Please subscribe if so inclined to help the channel grow. Good luck with the restoration.
A very detailed video that is the most comprehensive video on the DW733 I've seen.
There looks to be very little difference between the Type 1 and the Type 2. The biggest change is the Cutter Block as the blade is retained by bolts that are fixed inside the Cutter and you only get the allen key and a spanner.
I came across your video whilst looking for a video on cleaning the rollers. I think ill be having to do the same as you and replacing them.
Hello, and thank you for your thoughtful comments. I am glad this was helpful. If you remove the rollers you can always inspect them up close and give them a good clean. This is harder to do when they're installed. You could probably measure them with calipers to see how much they're worn out. You can get a measurement (to compare) off the ends where they are less used. In the past I found acetone did help to clean off the glaze and sap, however, it seems to remove some of the rubber, but that might not be a bad thing. Good luck with your restore and please subscribe to help the channel grow. I am here if you have questions.
@@dembydish I added myself to your list of subcribers after watching your Push paddle video, as they look like a very cost effective solution to safely using my table route and my other Planner Thicknesser that I bought after the Dewalt. The push pads that came with the router table are as much use as a chocolate fire guard. they have no gripwhat so ever.
@@Simon_W74 Thanks for subscribing. I find the push paddles to be excellent and feel good in the hand. You can exert a good downwards pressure if needed. Wish I'd made them sooner! Best of luck.
5 star video....could not stop watching....step by step......thank you
Thank you, I hope you'll subscribe. Keep well.
@@dembydishI will do..... looking forward to more ....🙂
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ Fantastic tutorial, excellent knowledge and easy to follow step by step instructions.
I’ve just purchased one so this will come in very handy, thank you for sharing!
Hi Nick, glad I could help. If you feel so inclined please subscribe to help get the word out to help others, Stay safe, and thanks for your comment.
Thank you for a very thorough video. Going to work on my DW733 now.
Thanks Thomas glad I could help. I'd be grateful if you could subscribe to help the channel grow. Good luck with your upcoming work on your DeWalt 733. Keep well.
This is the best video on RUclips thank you
Absolutely perfect video for me! Thank you so much for your video of perfect speed and detail. Much thanks.
Hi Tina, I'm glad I could be of service. Thanks for stopping by.
I believe the roller bearings are Babbitt bearings and do not need grease although not harm in using it. I am having trouble with my feed and will be looking at roller wear soon. Video was helpful.
Thank you Paul for leaving comment. Hope you get your rollers sorted soon. Keep safe.
Went to use mine the other day and if was making noise would not feed the wood. I know how to go thru the process. Thanks for taking the time. I will get my manual and order the parts.
Start with a good clean of the rollers and lubricate the tables. I use silicone spray on the tables these days (keep it off the rollers!) and see if that helps. Check the drive belt too. Thanks for your comment and please subscribe. Good luck.
When tightening bolts in a line sequence, they need to be tightened in an alternating sequence starting from one end, and then moving to the opposite end; working toward the middle. Repeat. They should be torque down to 50”lbs. 😃 Great tutorial!
Excellent video, well worth the hour of watching...
very clear. thank you not sure how long it would have taken me with the manual
You're welcome Walter. If you feel so inclined, please subscribe to help the channel grow and get info out to help others. Keep safe and thank you for your comment.
Thank you very much!!!very clear, professional Thanks again
You are very welcome. Glad I could help.
I'm doing a complete tear-down and rebuild on a DW733 Type 1. I find that if I tighten the roller brackets screws to be set; i.e., hand tight, one roller is very difficult to turn and the other will not turn at all. This, of course, before I put back the gear-chain assembly. I tried it out anyway and it resulted in quickly melting the synthetic belt. Yes, I did put the bushings in with the wide side parallel to the plane bed and lubed everything with a good grease. Thoughts?
I have a similar issue and have burnt out 2 motors :( The first, I thought due to my inexperience. But after the second, I'm not so sure. The rollers are not easy to turn at all. Debating whether it's worth a third motor.
Thank you for the tutorial, mine is working perfectly now after changing the blocks and blades,thank you,
Hello Keith, I'm so glad to hear you have had success with your DW733. I'm glad I could help. Please subscribe if you feel inclined to help the channel grow. Thank you for your comment.
Thank you for this detailed video on the DW733
You are welcome, I hope its useful. Please subscribe to help the channel grow if you wish. Thank you for our comment.
Thanks for this vid!
BTW you can flip those bearings over as they only wear on one side. ;)
Very useful video as I am going to refurbish mine this summer. Thanks for sharing.
You're very welcome and thank you for subscribing to the channel. Good luck with the restoration.
Great video. Very clear, very well explained.
Hi CJ, I'm glad you appreciated the video, thank you for your comment. Please subscribe if you feel inclined.
Thank you for the comprehensive video. Wondering how to replace the carbon brushes on the DW733?
HI Angelo, thank you for your comment, and I hope the video helps if you want to undertake any of these maintenance challenges. I haven't changed the brushes yet, but I expect it is just a matter of unscrewing a small cover plate removing the old ones (probably just pop out as they are spring loaded) and pop the new ones in. Hope this helps and please subscribe to the channel to help it grow and get the info out to help others. Good luck.
Great video, I needed help with the same problem and you provided that
Hi John, thank you for your comment, i'm glad the video helped you.
Very informative, thank you for your help!!!
Thanks for sharing much help as the manual has no information regarding this. How long did you go before you had the change the rollers? Ive had my planer for 1 month now and its not feeding, i will be taking it apart to see what the issue is?
A while back mine was having trouble feeding as well, turned out that a fairly sturdy splinter had been lodged in (and I had failed to see it). It came loose when I was blowing out some dust with a compressed air gun :)
Not to imply that you missed something, like I did. Just food for thought.
Hope it resolves!
Excellent tutorial. I am having an issue adjusting the outfeed table. I assume it is supposed to be level with the inner table.
Hello Robert, the two tables and the inner table should be in line with each other, providing a flat surface for the wood to traverse across. A straight edge or long (spirit) level can be used. Adjustment nuts are under the outer tables so its a bit trial and error. Thanks for your comment.
Thank you very much. This was excellant!😊
You are welcome. Thank you for your comment. Please subscribe.
Great video. I got as far as removing the rollers and discovered they are shot. Lots of cracks on them. Checked Amazon and ebay but no luck. Where can I find these rollers?
Hello, the rollers are getting harder to find as the machines get older. I got my rollers on eBay but I see there are only one or two left now and they're expensive. I found this outlet that might be able to help you. I suggest you contact them and find out what it is they're selling (new or reconditioned, country of manufacture etc.) But.. this may be the last chance saloon on this item. Service centers might be worth a try. I hope this helps you, let me know how you get on. Thanks for your comment. www.sparepartsworld.co.uk/product/285940-00
excellent and through video. I recently purchased a used DW733 like this one but I need to replace the 4 pillar posts(due to rust) is there an easy way to do this?
Clean them. Soak paper towels in white vinegar and tightly wrap the posts. Soak for a few hours (or more) and remove the paper towel. Clean the rust off with steel wool. Repeat as necessary (depending on the amount of rust). Once the rust is removed (90% or more) oil or grease the pillars. This can be done with everything still assembled but you will have to work on the exposed sections first, then spray some WD40 or penetrating oil into the part that slides over the pillars and adjust the height to get to the remaining portion of the pillars.
Great vid, fantastic tutorial. My feed rollers and bearings are worn, can you let me know where you got your parts from. Thanks
I could not get the gears out due to the threaded adjusting rod being in the way so I cranked the moveable unit completely off the base. I don't know if that is wrong but I did not know what else to do... On my unit the bearings were rounded into an oblong just like yours. I was able to order replacements. My planer is 20 years old and after many thousands of board feet planed, it was no surprise to me that they were destroyed
Hello Dennis, thank you for your comment. Did you get it back together OK? Please subscribe if the video was helpful. Kind Regards, Matthew
Hi Denbydish, thanks for the great video. I am going to replace both of my feed rollers and bearings but noticed that I have a total of five springs. I have one smaller spring that fits inside of the larger springs. It didn't appear that during your video, you have this. Wouldn't this make for more tension pushing up on one side of one roller?
Hi Tina, I've never seen a fifth spring installed. If you have four matching ones and you're replacing the rollers, I'd be inclined to leave it out. It might have been added to help with a worn roller. Short of testing the compressive strength of the 4 springs, it's going to be guess work I'm afraid. Thanks for your comment, and please subscribe.
If you look at the exploded diagram of the machine, the fifth (inside) spring is there - it means it's there by design. I have found one in my DW733-QS Type 11. I guess its purpose is to balance some dynamic forces in the pulley mechanism.
Hi. Thanks for this very thorough walk through. I have a question. How warm (or hot) does the upper drive shaft pulley (the smaller pulley) get on your machine? I just had a belt fail on my because it melted a little bit. I pulled off the belt and ran the planer without belt but this pulley still gets quite hot, almost to the point where you can't touch it without burning your finger. Checked the brushes but they both look fine.
Hi The stripper, if the pulley getting hot is attached directly to the motor, unless it is a failing bearing, which would make noise, it must be drawing heat from the shaft coming from the motor to which it is attached. Excessive heat from the motor is likely failing/shorting motor windings. This is not good news as it is the rotor or stator copper windings shorting. This is usually due to the wiring insulation breaking down and the wires touching or electricity arcing across. Under these conditions the motor will likely get worse, and will stop working. It needs replacing or rewinding. However, this is just conjecture as I haven't seen the machine. At this point it might be worth getting it looked at by Dewalt service. Hopes this helps. Thanks for your comment.
@@dembydish Yes this was my suspicion as well. I rented an identical planer since I needed to get on with my work and on this one the small pulley also gets very warm. Maybe it's just how these planers operate? Have you checked this on your machine?
@@Thestripper1 Hello again, it could be a common problem on these machines after a certain amount of prolonged use/mileage. I had a DeWalt hand planer that would heat up as soon as it was plugged in and finally stopped working. It was shorted out windings. My DW733 is OK, never had a problem with melted belts, but never checked the pulley. But, I don't use it for projects requiring prolonged use, just DIY stuff these days. Hope you get it sorted. Thanks for your comment.
@@dembydish Well, if you do turn your planer on one of these days, even if it's just to touch up a small piece, just touch the pulley after the machine has fully stopped to check it. Maybe they all get hot there?
Very well explained
Awesome video. Do you recall where you sourced your rollers and bearings? Do you happen to have part numbers? I am having a hard time tracking down rollers for the dw733 in the US, but can find the rollers for the dw734 easily. Are they possibly the same roller with a different part number? Thank you!
I have purchased second handed thickneser a wek ago or so and noticed an issue with feed out. I have dissasembled the parts as per video and noticed, blocks were all good but both rollers were worn but not too badly. I have added an extra washers under the screws when put these four blocks back in. It helped to grip a piece of wood on the way in and out but I still need to sharpen both blades.
However my idea is to use a lathe and make metal rollers to avoid future damage to them. What you guys think about it?
Since making this video I have discovered that spraying the in-feed /out-feed tables with silicone is a good way to reduce the friction of the wood. It is quicker to apply than wax and can be done more frequently. You must not get it on the rollers, using a cloth to prevent this helps. The rollers should be cleaned periodically to get rid of sap build up. I have used acetone for this. Rubber Renue is a product which claims to restore rubber making it grip better. Not sure about metal rollers as I think they wouldn't grip and possibly bruise the wood? Thanks for your comment.
Good vid, informative enough. Got a King 13" planner. Had it 24 years bought new and don't use it often. So while the blades are on vacation getting sharpened I thought maybe I should grease the bushings. There was Zero wear on them but some fresh grease should gain another 20+ years. Pretty sure after that a person won't be worrying about anything.
Very handy video . full marks. I do need some help. I cannot raise any height as the handle allows me to turn about 2 full turns and go no more. The release handle is up . Any ideas please
Hello Jason, thanks for your question. If you look down the comments to a question from Teen Rage, I had some suggestions. Try those first and let me know if it helps. M
@@dembydish thank you for the quick reply and will have a go today and let you know
@@dembydish I think that the large springs are the problem. Do you know how to replace them and of course putting back together. I've ordered new ones ready. Thank you for all your help.
Hi looking for some advice please, the 2 chains on my dw 733 have at least 15mm play on them would you know if I need new chains. Thank you for any help you can give. Derek
Hi - I've got the DW733 & am trying to replace the blades. It looks like there's been a recent change to the blade housing though. When you expose your blades you're looking at the blade surface with 8 visible bolts. My machine has covered these with a guard of some sort that makes the whole mechanism into a cylinder. Although the guard has two allen key screws in it I've not yet worked out how to get it off. Have you seen this at all?
Hello, I am only familiar with the older model in the video. Sounds like you've got to remove the cover to access the blades. This should be possible and explained in the manual. You could probably download one from the internet if you don't have one. Sorry can't be of more help. Thank you for your comment.
@@dembydish Thanks - I've manage to sort it. The "cover" isn't actually a cover - its a complete new design.
The old design has the blades bolted onto the spindle.
The new design is difficult to describe but I'll leave a note in case others are reading this. You need to do two things:
1) The two buried screws have their heads nestled into the holes in the blade. When you undo them you're gradually easing the blade out
2) Before you do this though you need to turn each of the little bolts that you can see side on. Counter-intuitively you need to do these up. This moves them into the retaining bar and makes it narrower and so frees pressure on the blade
They really have made this into a mind puzzle :-)
@@dembydish And really appreciate the channel - subscribed :-)
Glad you sorted it out. And thank you for leaving a 'how to' on removing the blades, this will help others I'm sure. Thanks for subscribing. Keep well.
I have the same planer, and I'm so envious of your guilds. The chrome plate on mine is so rusty and I've always kept it in my utility room. I've had to clean mine with aluminum foil and 3 and 1 oil. But they keep rusting when they get dry. Thanks for the vid. Ive been trying to figure out how to adjust the hight evenous threaded rods. I've always had to plane and reverse anything I plane. Seems one side is a hair lower than the other. Any ideas? Thanks
Hi Peter, I can only think of unscrewing the blade/motor housing off the rods (assuming that is possible) and reinstalling the high side with a turn before the other side. Alternatively, there are two cogs and a chain that connect to the handle. Removing the chain and adjusting one side then reassembly? Last resort might be to adjust the blades. Would need to take a look at the machine again to be sure. Thanks for your comment and please subscribe if you feel inclined to help the channel grow.
@@dembydish Thanks so much. I was actually able to remove the bottom plate revealing the chain height adjustment. What happened was the gear on the one side was slipping. Therefore one side went up while other side spun. I removed chain and gears off the threaded rod, cleaned, oiled everything. Adjusted everything to even, put it back together and now works. I'm going to get new chrome shaft's. Too expensive a tool to not have it working perfectly. Thanks again for the motivation,,👍
@@peterford9369 Hi Peter, you are very welcome.
Hi Denbydish, I recently got this machine but seem to have an issue feeding wood, in that I have to push it through. It seems that the anti-kickback fingers are too low compared to rollers. Is this a known issue? Should I try and fix myself and if so, are they adjustable in height? Or could it be that the part is defective and I should get a new one? Thanks in advance for your reply.
Hello Julien, I get the same problem from time to time. As far as I am aware the anti-kickback fingers are not adjustable. Assuming your machine isn't new,. I'd suggest you clean the rollers by wiping with a cloth and some acetone, do the same to the plate/bed which the wood slides across. Then get some silicone spray and apply fairly liberally to the plate taking care not to get it on the rollers. Wipe away excess with a cloth. This might solve the problem. Alternatively, use bees wax (soft furniture polish wax) on the plate and buff. Basically, try to increase the grip of the rollers and minimise friction on the wood. The 'fingers' are there to hold the wood down on the plate to stop it jumping about, if the surface of the wood is rough they can drag and bind up and may require pushing through anyway. Hope this helps. Thanks for your comment.
@@dembydish thanks for the response. I will try that and hope it solves the issue as it just doesn't seem normal the amount of force necessary to push wood past those anti-kickback fingers
@@Monedge Let me know how you get on. Also.... Unplug the machine when working on it, and you may need to start it a few times to move the rollers for full cleaning access. Hope it helps.
Hi denbydish, thank you for sharing such interesting videos. I would appreciate sme help, I do have a DeWalt DW733 and the rollers are now blocked, they stopped working and the wood doesn't get into the machine, any idea how I could fix this? Thank you very much in advance!
Hello Fabio, when the motor is operating everything should work simultaneously. The motor drives the blades (via a belt) and the rollers via a series of metal gears and chains. If the motor operates and the rollers do not... then the linkage/chains are the best place to look. It could be a broken chain or gear. The video shows how to access these parts. Once exposed you could turn on the machine to see what is turning. If the gears and chains are good, correctly fitted to the shafts but not turning, the problem is likely inside the motor itself and it would need dissembling. That is beyond the scope of this video, i'd suggest getting it repaired by an approved Dewalt service center. I hope that helps and please subscribe if you feel inclined. Good luck.
Hello, thanks for the video. I just bought this very unit used and found its missing the adjustment chain. I cannot find any documentation on how it is routed with the center shaft that has the two sprockets. There is no chains available online either they are all discontinued so I plan to buy a whole length of chain locally and make my own. Can you supply me a pic of the bottom under the cover (if you have it) of the chain? Thanks.
Hello, thanks for your question. I made this video awhile ago, so the exact layout of the machine escapes me, although I did take it apart fairly exstensively. As I recall the blade height (cutter assembly) adjustment happens under the machine and is not shown in the video. Is that what you want to see, a picture of how the two threaded bars (which the cutter head rides on) are linked?
@@dembydish yes. The very underside was not shown and no manuals or videos online show it. The only video I found that shows a very short glimpse of it shows a cover that I'm missing. Here is a pic of the bottom. The two threaded shafts have sprockets on them and then there are these two sprockets in the center on a bracket.
DW733 bottom with chain missing. imgur.com/a/WT6KhWK
@@Free76Thinker OK, it seems a view of the bottom of my machine, complete and fully functioning would be useful to you. I'll see what I can do next week and get back to you. Keep well stay safe.
@@dembydish thanks but I'm sure I'll figure it out before then, I'm actually motivated this weekend, took it apart last night and am putting it back together together today.
Ok, but just incase let me know if you have a problem and still need a pic. Good luck and thanks for visiting the channel.
Very useful video - thank you. Where do you have your blades re-sharpened in the UK?
Hi Marcella, there's a tool hire shop where I live that takes them, and they're sharpened in Colchester. Your local tool hire is a good place to enquire. Thank you for your comment and please subscribe if you feel do inclined. Stay safe.
Fantastic instructional video,I have same Dewalt 733,and I have same problems,with rollers,but because I have 7 years ago stroke,I cant use very well my fingers,and I want to ask you,if I you accept of corse,can I send you my planer for repair,please?
Thank you
Gabriel
I’ve looked high and low for the feed rollers and cannot find them. HELP!!!! Any assistance would be appreciated
Show. Parabéns pelas dicas...👍
I received my new DW733 yesterday. when you switch it on it starts very loud but also flashes where the air vents are at the end of the motor, is this normal
I don't fancy seeing it burst into flames.
Hi Paul, it sounds like the brushes are making the sparking. This happens to some degree. I'd keep an eye on it though. I'd expect the brushes (carbon blocks that form the circuit with the rotating armature) are settling in and the sparking will reduce over time. If it gets worse or starts to smoke, then switch it off and return it. They are loud, wear ear defenders for sure. Hope this helps, and please subscribe. Keep safe.
@@dembydish Yes I think you are right and I contacted the company and they are replacing the unit, thankyou for your response. I have never used one before, so wasn't at all sure.
@@paulspencer7401 Hi Paul, glad you got it sorted. Thank you for your reply.
Very nice video. Thank you!
You're welcome Tom. Please subscribe if you feel inclined. Thank you for your comment.
how much did you spend on all the parts and where did you source them from many thanks and a great video
Hello, I purchased the blades on Ebay in the UK. If memory serves they were about £30. They come in sets of 2. You can buy replacement blades from China on Ebay. They are currently £16.99. No idea how good they are. It's possible they are the same ones I bought, but sold through a UK distributer. The advantage is there was no need to wait for international delivery. The rollers also came from Ebay. They were available singly or as a pair costing £54.99 a set. I got the bearings online at partshopdirect.co.uk £3.99 each. Hope this helps, thanks for your comment. Please subscribe to help the channel grow if you feel so inclined. Best of luck.
Well most of the job went well, last old bearing block will not come off shaft! Have been working on it for a while to no avail..
Have you ever had any issue with not being able to lower or raise the head with the handle? As in it will not move at all.
If it won't lower down towards the bottom of it's travel, it may be resting on the depth stop. Look for a silver wheel sticking out of the back at the bottom. Otherwise it may need lubrication to free it. Brush threads clean and apply to the threads of the rods on both sides inside the housing in the center below the handle (on one side). Hope this helps. Thanks for your comment and please subscribe to help the channel grow.
denbydish I will try that tomorrow. Thanks
@@TeeRagePhotography Also, if its been unused for a while, it might have seized up. A little WD40 will help to free it up. Wipe threads clean after and apply some oil. WD40 is not a suitable lubricant, but may help get it moving. Thanks for Subscribing.
Hi,where do you find that settings tool ? Thank's in advance
Hi Gabriel, the blade setting tool came with the planer. They're probably available through DeWalt, or possibly used on eBay.
Hi denbydish! I have watched with great interest your video, as I have also the same machine you show. I have a problem with it: I have disassembled it as you did in your video (had to buy an impact screwdriver to free the rods!) and found everything was fine. But if I want to remove a small thickness (1 or 2 mm) the rollers do not touch the wood and I have to push the strip myself; if instead I lower the head so that the rollers act, 5/6 mm of material is removed.
The rollers and cylinder of the slat are in the same plane, but with respect to the slat itself (when it comes down), there is a difference of about 3/4 mm in height that makes the cut too big.
Do you have any idea how to solve the matter? I would gratify! (as already did a few days ago per PayPal)
Hello Paolo, I have been away for a couple of weeks, hence my delay in replying. It seems to me if the cutter blades are removing wood and the rollers are not touching the wood (pushing it through) then the blades are not set correctly in the cutting block/cylinder. I would guess they are sticking out to far. The correct blade adjustment can be achieved by using the setting jig provided with the machine:
a) Are the blades the correct ones for this machine as per manufacturers specification?
a) Have your set up/installed the 2 blades using the jig?
I'd expect the rollers to be a bit lower than the blades so they can grip the wood to push it through. It should be possible for the rollers to pass the wood through the planer (under the blades) without making a cut.
If you need to set the blades follow that section in the video, but pay attention to the way the jig (alignment tool) is used, it can be a bit tricky to get it correctly placed.
Let me know how you get on. Thank you for your comment.
@@dembydish Hi Matthew, thank you very much for your answer, that arrived in perfect time! (tomorrow I would have brought the machine to dewalt service, with the relative costs that are not cheap!). Tomorrow I will check it out if the blades are sticking out too far (quite sure). The machine it was practically new and am pretty sure that are the original blades. I will let you know once I try to adjust them to correct position. Also you should have also received a message from a pal ... ;)
@@pgav63 Thank you Paolo..... You're a good pal!
@@dembydish Hello Matthew! further to your tip, I found out that the problem was in fact the adjustment of the blades (the nuts were so loose, that I wonder if the blades that I wonder if the blades could have been dislodged by the rotation). I realigned them and set to correct height and now the plane is working great!! Thank you very much for your support and outreach work
@@pgav63 Hi Paolo, wow, that could have been dangerous! I am so glad you found the problem in time and were able to fix it. Thank you for your donation to the channel and my best wishes to you and your future woodworking projects. Matthew.
hi, what is the number of that tool for adjusting the blade?
Is there a electrical reset on the DW 733?
I'm sorry I don't know. If there is it should be visible.
NEED HELP
Great video, was hoping this would be my problem as well. I have a DW733 with very little use. The problem is stuttering and leaves rollers marks and a small indentation from the blades. So after a DIY with no solution, I brought it to an authorized Dewalt service center and they have replaced, rollers, bushings, drive chains and bed. The problem of stuttering is STILL there. Hoping someone out there might have an ANSWER. Thanks
Hi Piazza, I am sorry this took so long but I missed the question. I hope you've got it fixed by now. I have found even with the replacements I made in this video, at times the machine still sticks and the rollers leave the rubber marks. I have minimized this by always working with a clean metal bed under the rollers. From time to time I clean it with acetone to remove sap etc. Nowadays, I prefer to use silicone spray instead of wax as a lubricant. It is very slippery and helps the wood glide through. I apply it from a spray can onto a cloth and wipe the in-feed, bed and out-feed trays. Let it dry. Spraying directly onto the bed is asking for trouble as it sprays a cloud and you don't want it on the rollers!
Next, make sure your roller in-feed and out-feed trays are aligned with the bed. I use a long straight edge. A spirit level would do at a pinch. If the feed tables are set higher than the bed the wood will bind. Level or a little under is best. Lastly, I don't make deep cuts only 0.5 to 1.0mm usually. This helps the machine pass the wood through. It takes longer but helps stop tear out and provided smoother cuts. For construction work, perhaps this is too time consuming, but for detailed work, it stops ruining a nice piece of wood with rubber skid marks.
I hope this helps. Thank you for your question and please subscribe to help the channel grow. Best of luck and stay safe.
In the real world I think we are expecting too much of the machine. If we hand plane a piece of timber we are looking at removing a few thousands of an inch to get a good finish. I was disappointed with the machine at the start off but now have more knowledge, very small cuts are the best, it’s not a milling machine. Have a go and let me us know how you get on 😉
Great video. Any reason why you didn't use lock tight on the bolts holding the roller bracket? I think in the video there was some traces of old lock tight on the bolts.
I wondered the same thing thinking that thredlock is why they were so hard to get out in the first place.
Thank you very much
good day. what causes the motor sprocket to break
If its a nylon type it can be old age. Usually its either something jamming or some sort of structural weakness or metal fatigue. Hard to say for sure without looking.
Thank you!
Hi. How long do you use the machine ? Average working hours weekly ?
Actually, not that much, I use it on a project by project basis. At the moment I'm building some garden gates. I purchased this machine used and it was in very bad condition, so I decided to get it working properly. It works great now, and I have built a mobile stand for it. Thanks for your comment.
@@dembydish what you did is very useful. It's a unique opportunity, for someone intrested, to see the "guts" of the machine. I noticed everything is cast iron or cast aluminum which is very good, comparing to some other machines that all sprockets are plastic. I'm between this and Makita 2012 opponent. Any hint is welcome. Thanks again for uploading .
@@quebraho Actually this is my second one of this machine. I had one when I lived in the States and bought another when I moved back to the UK. Don't know the Makita but DeWalt has a good reputation and I find it works well. The only drawback is the depth guage on the front right side which is difficult to read through the plastic lens, and the material removal guage which is in the front is a mechanical design and is not very reliable. I tend to measure the wood with a digital caliper. I'd suggest looking at both and comparing the thickness guages and the ease of cranking the cutter assembly up and down. The DeWalt crank threads are exposed to sawdust and need wiping and lubrication now and again. Good luck.
Excellant!!
Wish I could find this for the Ridgid tp1300
Sorry buddy, I don't own one.
Awesome! Thank you!
Dewalt will rebuild the whole unit, for $220. Should I drop it off or do it myself?
Good question! Does Dewalt specify what their proposed rebuild consists of? Is it replacement of worn parts ie. rollers, bearings, blade replacement? You can replace a lot of parts for $220. On the other hand the work will probably have a guarantee. My advice is to be sure if the work needs doing by inspecting the machine. Many feed problems can be resolved by cleaning rollers and lubrication of the feed tables and don't necessitate a rebuild. Hope this helps, please subscribe if you feel inclined. Thank for your comment.
Well done Thank you
Hi Noelle, you're welcome and thank you for your comment. If you feel so inclined please subscribe to help the channel grow. Stay safe in these difficult times.
Can you show the bottom chain
Why my DW 733 is new but when i using is very heat?
What part gets hot?
@@dembydish the motor of my dewalt 733 is very hot sir..
@@elidiodossantos1106 Hi Elido, could be a short in the windings. The motor getting warm is normal, but if it heats up after little use, it is possibly drawing too much current and it should be looked at. If it is new, or under guarantee I'd be thinking about returning it for replacement or repair.
Ok, thanks for your information sir..
Bottom chain and how it all goes together
either I missed it or it doesn't show the drive belt replacement.
No, you are correct it didn't need replacing. Thanks for your comment.
At that point, you could have installed a Shelix cutterhead.
The next time you need new blades. I just ordered a new set and will just sharpen the old ones and keep doing this until it dies. The "shelix cutter head is a fine item, but not for the cost in my opinion. Maybe someday I will order a set on one of my other planers but not on this older one.
Miriam Linder
Hi Denbydish,
Congratulations. You managed to make the best video. I hope your work will be rewarded.
I recently bought a Dewalt 733. I haven't used it yet. I saw in some videos that the device does not pull the wood well. The roller that pushes the wood is not positioned lower than the blades. Can it come like this from the factory? From what I saw in your video, I think the problem was the deformed roller bearing? In one of the videos, I saw that someone put spacers on the 4 screws that fix the roller. What is your opinion? Do you think it's ok?
ruclips.net/video/guclZKlecA4/видео.html
Waiting for your answer.
Hello Gabriela, thank you for your comment. I don't think the machine is designed to enable lowering the rollers in some way, and i'm not advocating modifications in this regard. I can see a potential feeding problem too if there's too much downward pressure as the wood will be pinned to the feed plate. A kind of balance is needed here.
That said, In order for the machine to work the rollers need to be slightly lower than the blades in order to grip and feed the wood. This is the way they are designed to be at the factory. However, the rollers can wear after many years of service and may not grip the wood as efficiently as when they were new. This can result in poor feeding and binding. Should they wear to the point they no longer reach the wood then they should be replaced!
I would suggest that you test your machine first to see how it operates.
Cleaning the rollers is a good place to start on any used machine. Use alcohol or 'rubber renew' if available may help. Potentially a light sanding to deglaze the surface although I've never tried it.
I have found the most common problem regarding feeding is the wood being 'uneven' (varying in thickness, being twisted or with obstructions or knots of some sort) on the side that is placed on the table, this will snag and cause binding. Ideally the underside of the wood being thickness planed should have been run over a flatbed planer. This would enable a much smoother operation. But in general construction work this is seldom done.
Another problem is the table gripping the wood from sap or marks left on the feed plate. I always clean the plate with alcohol, wax or use silicone spray and spread it around with a microfiber cloth and let it dry. This helps, but I generally spray it again if the wood starts to bind. If the wood is rough or sticky you may need to silicone the plate more often if the wood starts to feed less efficiently.
Lastly, make shallow cuts so as not to over burden the motor. This takes more time but potentially saves your machine and blades.
Always check the blades are set/installed correctly on a used machine too.
Anyway, I'd start there an see what happens before modifying the machine. Hope this helps. Good luck.
@@dembydish Your answer is correct. I will respect what you said.
BR
this is very helpful! I did subscribe. I just put together the planer as you described after having it apart for weeks, waiting for replacement parts. I have a question about the rollers though. If I tighten the brackets all the way down that hold the roller bushings, the springs have no function. Are you supposed to use those brackets to adjust the rollers? perhaps not putting them all the way down so there is some play and they actually push down on the wood when it is going through?
Hi Bassbabe, this is a very good question and one I am not sure I can answer definitively without tearing into the planer again. It seems to make sense that the rollers have some upwards movement as the wood passes underneath to allow for deeper cuts. This would seem to be a function of the springs compressing. However, as far as i know the brackets should be tightened down to secure the rollers keeping them level to the cutter and to stop them working loose. I assume there should be some movement in the springs if only a millimetre or two (the cuts are generally light) and some slight compression in the rubber rollers. When I disassembled my machine the brackets were tightened down and I replaced them the same way. The only other thought I have is that the bushings can be fitted incorrectly (turned through 90 degrees) and this would likely compress the spring more. I assume your are reinstalling the original springs, the replacement bushings are the same size and the machine worked OK at some point previously. I'd be interested to know what you did in the end and if your planer feeds OK. Sorry I can't be of more help. Thank you for your question and keep safe.
@@dembydish I replaced the springs on one of the rollers because when I took it apart the spring was fully compressed. I put the new bushings in with no play on the sides, that is, how you showed in the video, and they are level with the surface they are pushed into. The rollers are a bit old, so they don't pull fully like I think they should, but they weren't working at all before because one of the sprockets was broken in half, so the whole gear setup for the rollers was jammed. That and a bushing was frozen onto the roller that had the broken sprocket, so I had to take a torch to it and skillfully pound on it to get it off. now that I had the blades sharpened and got it all together, it works, and the rollers roll, but just like I said, because they are old, they slip a bit. and I also am still getting used to just how much at a time I should be taking off. It seems a certain depth and the rollers do their job. thank you so much for your answer! I watched some parts of your video multiple times as I have worked on the planer, and it has been super helpful.
Please stop calling them blades. They are planer KNIVES. That is why Dewalt calls them KNIFE gauges for setting the KNIVES. Good video.
Even though DeWalt names them as blades in the User Manual, there spares manual and online spares descriptions ? They even call it a Blade Clamp Bracket.
@@MrStevekirkman I apologize if I offended you or anyone else as I have never seen a manual. In over 40 years in the commercial cabinet and fixture business I have never heard them referred to as blades only planer and jointer knives. If DeWalt calls their knives, blades, then I guess when referring to DeWalt I will try to call them blades. Interesting that they call them knife gauges for setting the knives/blades. I guess then they also refer to bushings as bearings? I just finished rebuilding my 733 and the parts house also calls them bushings although you call them bearings. I guess DeWalt tries to confuse consumers. Maybe I am just confused.
@@dead4life469 Absolutely no problem. You didn't offend at all. It just goes to show that even manufacturers get confused on occasions ! so we mortals stand no chance. Thanks for your reply and best wishes.
Where can i find that tool for leveling the knifes ?. Thank hou
Should be in your toolkit in the back