The fact that is says “1978” on the PCB does NOT mean that it was manufactured in that year, it’s just a copyright (see the encircled C) of the DESIGN year of the PCB. The PCB were manufactured for a number of year or they made quite a bit of stock quickly. To (approximately) date a machine like this, look at the production dates on the chips. The format used here is XXYY where XX is the last two digits of the year, and YY the weeknumber. Following this, the TIA is the oldest chip since it has 800x (can’t read the x) so it must have been produced during the first 9 weeks of 1980. The newest chip is the 6507 with a date of 8025, meaning week 25 of 1980, meaning between 16 and 22 June 1980. It’s safe to assume there was quite a bit of time between the IC production and when it ended up in the PCB and the PCB in the machine. Let’s assume it was 3 months this would make the machine from late September 1980.
Wow! What a great education! Thank you very much! It's always nice to get feedback from someone that knows what they are talking about! All the best! Howard
You've gotta love the design of the six switch woody. Somehow timeless. It looks particularly nice when combined with 70s hi-fi equipment and an old school CRT TV . Wood grain veneer everywhere!
Awww I can’t disagree with that! ... I think the first time I played a woody was on a wood effect Phillips radio-rentals tv... a new colour model at a friends house... my parents had a black and white tv... they thought that frozen food was bad for you too!
Another great video, featuring the screwdriver of power and knowledge an invaluable tool in the repair and restoration of old hardware. Hope you manage to sort out the joystick problems in any case I'll be watching ;)
Peadar Feckfidgion ... hope to make some more progress tomorrow... screwdrivers at the Ready!!! :-). Check the latest video if you get chance, it’s a giveaway!!
That’s a “Sunnyvale, California PAL”. I didn’t know they made those! It has to be one of the first PAL run as Atari moved to overseas manufacturing (like Taiwan) in the late 70’s.
Thanks for your kind comments! - You are entered into the giveaway drawing that will take place in approximatly two weeks! Keep an eye-out! Don't forget to join us on our other social media sites for updates... PATREON www.patreon.com/DubiousEngineering FACEBOOK facebook.com/dubiousengineering/ TWITTER twitter.com/DubiousEngineer INSTAGRAM instagram.com/howardljtaylor/ RUclips ruclips.net/user/dubiousengineering DISCORD discord.gg/9CFsPGJ
@@DubiousEngineering personally I’m not big of very clicky microswitches, but it’s leagues better than the CX-40. At least on the Comp Pro I can tell when my inputs are registering
@ 0:50 - OK, not completely sure of this, but it looks like you have a light sixer there. The style of the plastic with that perpendicular groove along the edge compared to all the grooves parallel to the front suggests it was made in Taiwan (me thinks). I thought the "woodie" was the next version of that model' the one that had only four switches. Is that correct? Thank you. P.S. Liked the background music!!!!
@Dubious Engineering: I have a 4 switch atari 2600, and I've tried playing kaboom on it, but the graphics start to glitch after five rounds of that game. It plays all other games without any problems but it seems to have a pretty hard time operating that particular game. What might be happening that would make the system act crazy with one particular game?
The Unknown Show ... heat or memory! ... either the motherboard memory or the games cartridge... it’s likely to be the games cartridge as the other games play ok. Does it happen at a specific point in the game, does the unit or cartridge get hot?
Dubious Engineering it varies at the point that the game glitches. Sometimes it starts at round 2 sometimes after I've played 5 times. The glitching starts at the highscore display, and when I start rotating the paddle it gets worse from there.
The Unknown Show ... that sounds like heat... and dry joints... please check the PCB for dry joints on both the cartridge first (as it’s easier) then the main board of the 2600
Dubious Engineering by dry points do you mean areas where it's a sort of dull dark gray color? Because on the back of the game there are these round metal parts that look sort of like pellet gun pellets or belt studs and they're a sort of dull dark gray. I was assuming the game was dirty or something so I cleaned it and it still acts the same when I try and play it.
I just did something like this myself, except the model I got was in absolutely horrible condition! Every solder point on both boards was corroded and rusty, So I had to resolder all of them! Plus replacing a transistor and 2 capacitors! Although in the end, I got it to run
@@DubiousEngineering I actually have a question for you, I was going over a few parts for one last look and it says it was manufactured in 1980 but it's a 6 switch and the 6 switch ended in 1978, and it's weird Because it has the weight of a heavy sixer and some components of a heavy sixer, but also has some components from a light sixer like the case design?
Hahah... exactly! “Nuclear reactor” ... that die cast Box is engineering overkill, but I suppose it stops electromagnetic radiation from leaking out! As always, thanks so much for your encouragement and support! Howard
Thank you for your speedy and thoughtful response. After further inspection I find my units have a manufacture date of 1980. There's only one board. Now I have to find the correct input adapter to connect to my tv. Thanx again..G
@@DubiousEngineering These 1980 units have a single board. Soooo,,, I cut the the rca plug off the long end, exposed the wires and temporarily plugged it in to the antenna jack and it works!! The wife is delighted [not].
Hmmm... I decided i needed a little more engagement from a game.... i loved the acorn electron... elite kept my attention... Thanks for stopping by and popping in a comment!! There will be more retro madness in the future... :-)
I’m looking forward to finishing it... the problem is the games are so limited... but perhaps that is what will make them fun... I need to find another games cartridge... thanks as always for your encouragement and support! All the best! Howard
I picked one of these up for $5. It powers on and shows the title screen on about half of the TV but it doesn't accept any type of input (reset, joysticks, etc). Few days I am going to tear it apart see if there is any hope for it.
DUBIOUS ENGINEERING ** % 1.) What is the start and end address range for the TIA? 2.) What is the start and end address range for the PIA? 3.) What is the start and end address range for the Games ROM chip? 4.) What is the start and end address range for the Sound RIOT chip? 5.) is it a ROM chip or a PROM chip that are inside the game cartridge? 6.) A PIA chip is a RAM chip that has built in ADC/DAC interfacing? A PIA is not a decoder or a multipler chip , its a RAM chip with I/0 interfacing ADC/DAC converters built into the RAM locations?
Hi bill I’m missing your point... sorry... are you complaining that the information in my video is not factually correct, or are you asking genuine questions? ... google may be able to help. I’m no expert here, I just enjoyed the refurbishment :-). All the best... Howard
I wish I would had went to this first. I thought the Atari carts had batteries in them or bad traces so I took a cart apart with the intention of fixing one a day, but then I realized the carts really arent much to them. I should had figured if every one of my cartidges does not work EXCEPT Berzerk, then the atari may be the culprit.
@@DubiousEngineering Its an ongoing issue. I checked the connections in one of the carts that didnt work. Everything is ok. I might check another one or start trouble shooting the atari as you did in this video
Hey I bought an Atari 2600 6 switch at a garage sale and it was missing the output cable, keep in mind the six switch has the smaller pin rf cable on the inside, any idea where I can find one? As seen in an attached picture in this products review- www.amazon.com/Atari-Intellivision-Colecovision-2600-Turbo-Grafx/dp/B0074TWWPG
@@DubiousEngineering I would have used dry spray contact cleaner to properly wash the switches. Then, then the cleaner had fully evaporated, I would have applied some switch lubricant (it's usually labelled as contact cleaner as well, but it will leave some oil behind). Yes, WD40 was not the best choice I'm afraid! :)
I’ll go ahead and order some to fix the possibility of future problems... apparently this version is quite rare as it is pal and manufactured in USA... most pal models were made in Taiwan...
Yeah nice one mate! I saved my 3 pounds a week pocket money for 1 whole year to say 150 to pay for a console and one game (Missile command). Was never able to afford anything more than combat and missile command. However I moved on to programming after that year so I never got into console gaming much more than this and the pong game before it.
You and I are from the same cut! ... programming kept me more interested than just playing games... it’s funny as so many people used to say... “the computer is a passing fad and will never take off” ... they were so very wrong!! :-)
Not bad for 20 quid. Just for peace of mind though, it might be good to get those 41 year old capacitors outta there, since there's not a lot of them, and it's one less thing to worry about.
Beefcake... I agree!! But I’m lazy!! ... I’m not sure if I wanna keep this machine or let it go... if I keep it, I’ll re-cap it. The silk screen on the control panel is really bad, and the wood effect is so scratched up, also I have no box... so it’s not really a good collection piece... I’m on the fence... either way, you are correct. The caps should be replaced!! Ok you talked me into it!
I can’t wait to get this up and running again... I think the games will be very simple, but it will be great fun to tinker around with it! Thanks so much for your encouragement and support! All the best, Howard
I’m in Taiawan, and my wife’s brother just gave me an old Chinese console that needs attention!! Much like you, I keep looking and trying not to spend money unexpectedly!! :-)
![KSI - Dirty [Official Visualiser]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoDh1h1dPUE/mqdefault.jpg)
The fact that is says “1978” on the PCB does NOT mean that it was manufactured in that year, it’s just a copyright (see the encircled C) of the DESIGN year of the PCB. The PCB were manufactured for a number of year or they made quite a bit of stock quickly.
To (approximately) date a machine like this, look at the production dates on the chips. The format used here is XXYY where XX is the last two digits of the year, and YY the weeknumber. Following this, the TIA is the oldest chip since it has 800x (can’t read the x) so it must have been produced during the first 9 weeks of 1980. The newest chip is the 6507 with a date of 8025, meaning week 25 of 1980, meaning between 16 and 22 June 1980. It’s safe to assume there was quite a bit of time between the IC production and when it ended up in the PCB and the PCB in the machine. Let’s assume it was 3 months this would make the machine from late September 1980.
Wow! What a great education! Thank you very much! It's always nice to get feedback from someone that knows what they are talking about! All the best! Howard
You've gotta love the design of the six switch woody. Somehow timeless. It looks particularly nice when combined with 70s hi-fi equipment and an old school CRT TV . Wood grain veneer everywhere!
Awww I can’t disagree with that! ... I think the first time I played a woody was on a wood effect Phillips radio-rentals tv... a new colour model at a friends house... my parents had a black and white tv... they thought that frozen food was bad for you too!
Another great video, featuring the screwdriver of power and knowledge an invaluable tool in the repair and restoration of old hardware. Hope you manage to sort out the joystick problems in any case I'll be watching ;)
Peadar Feckfidgion ... hope to make some more progress tomorrow... screwdrivers at the Ready!!! :-). Check the latest video if you get chance, it’s a giveaway!!
That’s a “Sunnyvale, California PAL”. I didn’t know they made those! It has to be one of the first PAL run as Atari moved to overseas manufacturing (like Taiwan) in the late 70’s.
Ooooh! ... I’ll hang onto that then... sounds quite special! :)
That's really cool! Had one for ages but never thought to look inside.
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I bought a 5200 with 2 of those same style Competition Pro 9000 joysticks. Best I’ve ever had
Cool! I like the joysticks with micro switches!
@@DubiousEngineering personally I’m not big of very clicky microswitches, but it’s leagues better than the CX-40. At least on the Comp Pro I can tell when my inputs are registering
@ 0:50 - OK, not completely sure of this, but it looks like you have a light sixer there. The style of the plastic with that perpendicular groove along the edge compared to all the grooves parallel to the front suggests it was made in Taiwan (me thinks). I thought the "woodie" was the next version of that model' the one that had only four switches. Is that correct? Thank you. P.S. Liked the background music!!!!
Ooooh ... I have noooo idea but it was great fun doing the refurbishment
@Dubious Engineering: I have a 4 switch atari 2600, and I've tried playing kaboom on it, but the graphics start to glitch after five rounds of that game. It plays all other games without any problems but it seems to have a pretty hard time operating that particular game. What might be happening that would make the system act crazy with one particular game?
The Unknown Show ... heat or memory! ... either the motherboard memory or the games cartridge... it’s likely to be the games cartridge as the other games play ok. Does it happen at a specific point in the game, does the unit or cartridge get hot?
Dubious Engineering it varies at the point that the game glitches. Sometimes it starts at round 2 sometimes after I've played 5 times. The glitching starts at the highscore display, and when I start rotating the paddle it gets worse from there.
The Unknown Show ... that sounds like heat... and dry joints... please check the PCB for dry joints on both the cartridge first (as it’s easier) then the main board of the 2600
Dubious Engineering by dry points do you mean areas where it's a sort of dull dark gray color? Because on the back of the game there are these round metal parts that look sort of like pellet gun pellets or belt studs and they're a sort of dull dark gray. I was assuming the game was dirty or something so I cleaned it and it still acts the same when I try and play it.
I just did something like this myself, except the model I got was in absolutely horrible condition! Every solder point on both boards was corroded and rusty, So I had to resolder all of them! Plus replacing a transistor and 2 capacitors! Although in the end, I got it to run
Well done mate! - Sounds like a real ballache... its really satisfying bring these back to life, but really unsatisfying to play the games... :-)
@@DubiousEngineering Thanks man!
Absolute pleasure!! Pop over to Dubious Engineering on FaceBook if you like and post a few pictures of your kit!!
@@DubiousEngineering I actually have a question for you, I was going over a few parts for one last look and it says it was manufactured in 1980 but it's a 6 switch and the 6 switch ended in 1978, and it's weird Because it has the weight of a heavy sixer and some components of a heavy sixer, but also has some components from a light sixer like the case design?
@@DubiousEngineering Any ideas what it could be?
Wonderful - I have one that won't quite tune in - and now I know I can adjust the RF modulator - hopefully I'll be playing PacMan in a jiffy!
Whooopeee!! - Enjoy!! :-)
That cast main board is pretty awesome definitely don't see that anymore!
Proper die cast lump of aluminium!! Hope all is well with you and yours... in Asia now...
Hello.. I want to ask u.. Does this atari still found till now?.. From which site I can buy it? & how much it cost? ...
eBay Atari 2600 - i found an old broken one and fixed it... they are around £50 - £100
Been a long time since I had a look inside one these-forgot they used old nuclear reactor shielding ⚛️🤣
Hahah... exactly! “Nuclear reactor” ... that die cast Box is engineering overkill, but I suppose it stops electromagnetic radiation from leaking out! As always, thanks so much for your encouragement and support! Howard
yeah i missed your energy is the repair videos
Thanks so much for your support bnerd!! ... it’s you guys and your comments that encourage me!!
i have two of these 2600 and the guts don't look anything like yours or other technicians boards. Suggestions?
Google? - Ping me on twitter @dubiousengineer and I'll retweet - I know a few people that may be able to help!
Thank you for your speedy and thoughtful response. After further inspection I find my units have a manufacture date of 1980. There's only one board. Now I have to find the correct input adapter to connect to my tv. Thanx again..G
@@DubiousEngineering These 1980 units have a single board. Soooo,,, I cut the the rca plug off the long end, exposed the wires and temporarily plugged it in to the antenna jack and it works!! The wife is delighted [not].
@@ggeorge3219 Great news mate :-) Whoooop!!
@@DubiousEngineering How to fix noise on display? Looks like bad rf but it's not. Just lines running across the screen and unstable images
Can you please do the 2600 junior newer model I'm having colour issues with yars revenge on big sony lcd screen
Awww... I don’t yet have that model... if you’re in the uk, and close by, welcome to bring it over and we can have a look at it together!
Fantastic vid, I just subbed. I'm going to fix mine soon and post the video on my channel. Thanks for sharing.
Level By Level Gaming ... good luck with the fix!! Look forward to seeing your video :-)
I have this very game. It's actually very entertaining, even modern youngsters find it thrilling.
Hmmm... I decided i needed a little more engagement from a game.... i loved the acorn electron... elite kept my attention... Thanks for stopping by and popping in a comment!! There will be more retro madness in the future... :-)
Nice 2600 - looking forward to seeing it in fully working order :)
I’m looking forward to finishing it... the problem is the games are so limited... but perhaps that is what will make them fun... I need to find another games cartridge... thanks as always for your encouragement and support! All the best! Howard
I picked one of these up for $5. It powers on and shows the title screen on about half of the TV but it doesn't accept any type of input (reset, joysticks, etc). Few days I am going to tear it apart see if there is any hope for it.
Great idea... look for dry joints etc... get the magnifying glass out! :-)
DUBIOUS ENGINEERING
** % 1.) What is the start and end address range for the TIA?
2.) What is the start and end address range for the PIA?
3.) What is the start and end address range for the Games ROM chip?
4.) What is the start and end address range for the Sound RIOT chip?
5.) is it a ROM chip or a PROM chip that are inside the game cartridge?
6.) A PIA chip is a RAM chip that has built in ADC/DAC interfacing? A PIA is not a decoder or a multipler chip , its a RAM chip with I/0 interfacing ADC/DAC converters built into the RAM locations?
Hi bill I’m missing your point... sorry... are you complaining that the information in my video is not factually correct, or are you asking genuine questions? ... google may be able to help. I’m no expert here, I just enjoyed the refurbishment :-). All the best... Howard
@@DubiousEngineering I'm not complaining about your video I'm looking for information
bill williams phew!! :-). Definitely google it... I found quite a lot of info about this device... it has quite a following!!
@@DubiousEngineering ok
When the game loads but won't let you play, what's the solution?
Great question!! - Does it happen to all your games, or just one?
@@DubiousEngineering Thanks! It only happens to two, Asteroids and Sky Jinx. System is a Atari 7800.
I wish I would had went to this first. I thought the Atari carts had batteries in them or bad traces so I took a cart apart with the intention of fixing one a day, but then I realized the carts really arent much to them. I should had figured if every one of my cartidges does not work EXCEPT Berzerk, then the atari may be the culprit.
Interesting that bezerk works ... definitely no batteries in the 2600 carts I have... :-)
@@DubiousEngineering Its an ongoing issue. I checked the connections in one of the carts that didnt work. Everything is ok. I might check another one or start trouble shooting the atari as you did in this video
would this unit work on a north American tv?
No... sorry it’s that PAL vs SECAM problem... different formats!!
2.57 that looks suspiciously like a wood screw
Ha ha ha 🤣😂. It is a 'woody' :-)
Nice tear down 🕶.
Thanks Tips! ... have a wonderful weekend! Howard!
Great job, many thanks
Hope it helped a little, I do love this device, probably one of the first machines I ever played on!!
Hey I bought an Atari 2600 6 switch at a garage sale and it was missing the output cable, keep in mind the six switch has the smaller pin rf cable on the inside, any idea where I can find one? As seen in an attached picture in this products review- www.amazon.com/Atari-Intellivision-Colecovision-2600-Turbo-Grafx/dp/B0074TWWPG
Well, you could get away with some 75-Ohm TV co-ax and solder a phono plug to one end and fit a TV plug to the other :-)
Your TV has some serious geometry problems. It probably needs new electrolytic capacitors.
TBH ... I've gone off CRT TVs... much rather flat LEDs ... so much more throwawayable 😀
Missed opportunity to call it a sonic screwdriver.
Teehee! ... how very doctor who!
hopefully the wd40 didn't screw up the plastics. as WD40 can harm some plastics as it is a light kerosene-like mineral oil
madmax2069 ahhh... bugger... I didn’t think of that.. perhaps silicone grease would have been a better option...
@@DubiousEngineering they do have electric contact spray that shouldn't harm any plastics.
@@DubiousEngineering I would have used dry spray contact cleaner to properly wash the switches. Then, then the cleaner had fully evaporated, I would have applied some switch lubricant (it's usually labelled as contact cleaner as well, but it will leave some oil behind). Yes, WD40 was not the best choice I'm afraid! :)
I’ll go ahead and order some to fix the possibility of future problems... apparently this version is quite rare as it is pal and manufactured in USA... most pal models were made in Taiwan...
Yeah nice one mate! I saved my 3 pounds a week pocket money for 1 whole year to say 150 to pay for a console and one game (Missile command). Was never able to afford anything more than combat and missile command. However I moved on to programming after that year so I never got into console gaming much more than this and the pong game before it.
You and I are from the same cut! ... programming kept me more interested than just playing games... it’s funny as so many people used to say... “the computer is a passing fad and will never take off” ... they were so very wrong!! :-)
thanks
Thanks to you too!! It was great fun making this video :-)
Not bad for 20 quid. Just for peace of mind though, it might be good to get those 41 year old capacitors outta there, since there's not a lot of them, and it's one less thing to worry about.
Beefcake... I agree!! But I’m lazy!! ... I’m not sure if I wanna keep this machine or let it go... if I keep it, I’ll re-cap it. The silk screen on the control panel is really bad, and the wood effect is so scratched up, also I have no box... so it’s not really a good collection piece... I’m on the fence... either way, you are correct. The caps should be replaced!! Ok you talked me into it!
A bargain at £20, looking forward to seeing this restored to it's former glory.
I can’t wait to get this up and running again... I think the games will be very simple, but it will be great fun to tinker around with it! Thanks so much for your encouragement and support! All the best, Howard
Damn you have me searching eBay and Gumtree for old computers and consoles now ;-)
I’m in Taiawan, and my wife’s brother just gave me an old Chinese console that needs attention!! Much like you, I keep looking and trying not to spend money unexpectedly!! :-)
Six switcher yay! :)
Absolutely!!!
That’s a score.
Yes indeed!! A cracking 2600!!
Liked it
Thanks Giller :-)
You can teardown those switches... clean them properly then.
You have a fair point!! ... I guess I just wanted to play it and see what it’s like!!
@@DubiousEngineering Fair play. Looks like the wd40 did the job.
Like it 👍🏻
Thanks!! ... I was nervous it was a little slow and laborious...
A 10 minute message for my regular viewers... ruclips.net/video/hAVadIYgLbk/видео.html
oh my deoxit is much better than wd40 for switches
Yeah... or "switch cleaning lubricant "...
😁
Thanks as always for your encouragement and support!
Thanks as always for your encouragement and support!
Dubious Engineering no problem, did I drink or did you post it twice?
Hahahah! ... oooops... maybe I was drinking!