Fantastic well explained video. As a red/green colour challenged person I greatly appreciated the use of red and blue LED...a great touch!! Thanks buddy.
I was wincing watching you prepare the input wires. The insulation was too short, ideally you should not see any bare wires outside of the terminal block. Your wiring of the points motor into the terminal block was spot on.
Thank you for making it look so easy after all it’s only wires I should imagine by now someone has come up with an all in one block terminal It’s been a while since you last posted I trust everything is okay with you and your world
This video is most excellent. The whole idea of wiring up point motors had me completely baffled, but watching this has cleared things up no end, so thank you very much!
Did you ever do any more of these how to videos? Such as building a simple control panel or sone of the other basics. This is by far the clearest and easiest to follow video I’ve found and I’ve looked at lots.- just realised you’ve included a link to your website!
Hello….Help, I have wired two out of three of my ppi’s with everything working well! I had to wire just two more points to the third unit and the points work well. But both the green and red led’s come on at the same time and won’t switch off. These have been wired in exactly the same way as the other two units, so can’t understand what’s wrong!
Which CDU you will need depends on several factors, the number of points you want to use at the same time, the distance of the points from the controller, the wire size, the voltage and capability of your power supply, the gauge of the layout and so on. For a basic, compact layout, where you only want to operate one or two points at the same time, then a CDU with a single capacitor (4700uF) will be sufficient. For a larger layout, where now or in the future, you may wish to operate several points at the same time, and these may be some distance from the controller, then a CDU with two or more capacitors is recommended.
Thanks for a super video. My layout has eight turnouts and route switches. How do I wire the remaining seven turnouts and route switches? I don't need to throw more than one at a time. Any help greatly appreciated. Thx.
Hi guys. Great vid. Can you tell me how many turnout motors you would expect to be able to operate AT ONCE from a DCU? I have a diode matrix system to control the storage sidings ladder and may need to throw 4 or 5 turnouts at once to divert from track 1 to track 10.
Which CDU you will need depends on several factors, the number of points you want to use at the same time, the distance of the points from the controller, the wire size, the voltage and capability of your power supply, the gauge of the layout and so on. For a basic, compact layout, where you only want to operate one or two points at the same time, then a CDU with a single capacitor (4700uF) will be sufficient. For a larger layout, where now or in the future, you may wish to operate several points at the same time, and these may be some distance from the controller, then a CDU with two or more capacitors is recommended.
I've wired up my PPI and all looks fantastic, one question, is there any way to dim the LEDs without having to put resistors in the circuits? Thanks. Very good vid, very clear and easy to follow.
hi being new to all this , in the panel is it ok to to daisy chain the common on the switch, approx 10 switchs but only using one at a time, it's for a fiddle yard throat? thanks
Thank you for your excellent video. I have wired up 4 points with LEDs. I have a problem with the lights though. They work when the trains aren't running but when I run a locomotive they flicker and go off and then on again. I've checked the connections best I could and they seem ok. Any suggestions?
Sounds like you loco is pulling down the voltage of the supply to the PPI, causing it to reset. I would try runnig the PPI off a 9V battery for a while to see if it eliminates the problem.
@@BLOCKsignalling I think I have found the problem? Not sure though. Bad connecting on the points themselves. As the train goes round the track somehow it affects the blades on the points and this causes the LEDs to flicker. Can't be sure though, because the problem is intermittent. Can't think of anything else as I have check all connections?
You said at the start it was a guess getting the black and white wires the right way round. I assume if you’d got it wrong you’d have fried the cdu? So how do you check this?
I am very certain all CDUs will be protected against incorrect polarity, as many are designed for an AC input so will have rectifier diodes on their input. If the polarity is incorrect, they just won't charge. No damage should occur.
@@BLOCKsignallingUK I have been in our model railway club since 1985 and all our wire ends are fluxed and soldered so there are no stray ends. Not once have we had a joint become loose as you describe. Any way better than stray wires causing shorts. Just remember folks just starting out in the hobby aren't as cued up as us older modeler's
One question though: for the 2nd solenoid motor, where would I attach the LEDs? Would both the positives go into output terminal 2, and then 1 of the negatives into C1 and the other into C2? It strikes me that C1 and C2 would get quite crowded if that is the case. Thanks.
Yes that is the case. C1 and C2 won't get crowded in practice as the cathodes of the leds will be connected on the rear of the panel, rather than at the PPI.
You cannot use the CDU output as that falls to zero each time the points are operated. Please see here for the wiring: www.blocksignalling.co.uk/pdfs/50LF1L.pdf
@@BLOCKsignallingUK Thank you. I have ordered a couple of these and wa a little concerned that the Blocksignalling CDU is wired up to AC power - I am guessing the output to the point motors (DC?) won't affect the PPI
hi just downloaded instructions but is there a video of this that i can download as i find it alot easier to follow a video and pause than keep reading doing a bit then read and so on
Hi David, Im really annoyed because your video is the best out there for wiring up point motors. Unfortunately as im trying to watch it the cursed spinning ring keeps spinning and i cant here what you are saying, so I am flicking through it on static pics to guess hows its done. I still think I have it now ha ha ha . thanks for it anyway. All the best Duncan.
Hi Steven, Sorry I got your name wrong on last message. For some reason all other videos play but yours ???????? But ive got a still of the wiring set up. if I want more than 1 point motor do I loop from switch to switch ?? Regards Duncan.
hi would a pc power supply work with a 12 volt out put ? i am looking to buy this from your site for my lay out only just finished installing the point motors
Hi, a 12V DC power supply would be too low a voltage. You ideally need 20V DC or above (or 12V AC or above). Don't exceed 25V DC or 16V AC, otherwise you will damage the CDU. Make sure you use adequate wiring. For more information on wiring sizes, see: www.blocksignalling.co.uk/index.php/capacitor-discharge-unit-cdu1c-cdu2c-cdu4c
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for your simple explanation. As a newbie to Model Railways, this sort of video tutorial is a great help.
Fantastic well explained video. As a red/green colour challenged person I greatly appreciated the use of red and blue LED...a great touch!! Thanks buddy.
I was wincing watching you prepare the input wires. The insulation was too short, ideally you should not see any bare wires outside of the terminal block. Your wiring of the points motor into the terminal block was spot on.
Thank you for making it look so easy after all it’s only wires I should imagine by now someone has come up with an all in one block terminal
It’s been a while since you last posted I trust everything is okay with you and your world
Thank you for the comment. Still here for the moment !
This video is most excellent. The whole idea of wiring up point motors had me completely baffled, but watching this has cleared things up no end, so thank you very much!
Great video, I am now clear about point wiring. And being colour blind, thanks for the blue/red combination. Regards Stewart
Brilliant, I want to hook up some LEDs to my point motors and CDU soon, this shows me how to do it. Thank you.
Go for it!
Very informative was a bit nervous before watching this keep up the good work
Did you ever do any more of these how to videos? Such as building a simple control panel or sone of the other basics. This is by far the clearest and easiest to follow video I’ve found and I’ve looked at lots.- just realised you’ve included a link to your website!
I have been meaning to do some for the last 7 years, but something always seems to get in the way !
Hello….Help, I have wired two out of three of my ppi’s with everything working well! I had to wire just two more points to the third unit and the points work well. But both the green and red led’s come on at the same time and won’t switch off. These have been wired in exactly the same way as the other two units, so can’t understand what’s wrong!
If the leds are wired back to front they will be lit all the time. I would check this first.
Thank you for a very informative video from a newbie to this hobby
Which CDU you will need depends on several factors, the number of points you want to use at the same time, the distance of the points from the controller, the wire size, the voltage and capability of your power supply, the gauge of the layout and so on.
For a basic, compact layout, where you only want to operate one or two points at the same time, then a CDU with a single capacitor (4700uF) will be sufficient.
For a larger layout, where now or in the future, you may wish to operate several points at the same time, and these may be some distance from the controller, then a CDU with two or more capacitors is recommended.
Many thanks. Just bought 2 for my layout!
Have fun!
Great video. I was struggling before I watched this . . .
Thanks for a super video. My layout has eight turnouts and route switches. How do I wire the remaining seven turnouts and route switches? I don't need to throw more than one at a time. Any help greatly appreciated. Thx.
Great clear vid. Many Thanks. David
Hi, a complete newbie to the game here. Can I also wire in signals with the PPI to give me a red and green ? How would I tackle the amber?
Cheers
Hi guys. Great vid. Can you tell me how many turnout motors you would expect to be able to operate AT ONCE from a DCU? I have a diode matrix system to control the storage sidings ladder and may need to throw 4 or 5 turnouts at once to divert from track 1 to track 10.
Which CDU you will need depends on several factors, the number of points
you want to use at the same time, the distance of the points from the
controller, the wire size, the voltage and capability of your power
supply, the gauge of the layout and so on.
For a basic, compact layout, where you only want to operate one or two
points at the same time, then a CDU with a single capacitor (4700uF)
will be sufficient.
For a larger layout, where now or in the future, you may wish to operate
several points at the same time, and these may be some distance from
the controller, then a CDU with two or more capacitors is recommended.
What is the point position indicator called, I cannot find any for sale ?
I've wired up my PPI and all looks fantastic, one question, is there any way to dim the LEDs without having to put resistors in the circuits? Thanks. Very good vid, very clear and easy to follow.
Hi Paul, if you check the instructions, you can reprogram the module to change the led brightness. See:www.blocksignalling.co.uk/pdfs/50LF1L.pdf
Ah fantastic, many thanks!
hi being new to all this , in the panel is it ok to to daisy chain the common on the switch, approx 10 switchs but only using one at a time, it's for a fiddle yard throat? thanks
Yes, that would be a good way to wire the switches.
@@BLOCKsignallingUK cheers
great video, thank you sir
It looks like they are wired correctly but will re check, thanks
Thank you for your excellent video. I have wired up 4 points with LEDs. I have a problem with the lights though. They work when the trains aren't running but when I run a locomotive they flicker and go off and then on again. I've checked the connections best I could and they seem ok. Any suggestions?
Sounds like you loco is pulling down the voltage of the supply to the PPI, causing it to reset. I would try runnig the PPI off a 9V battery for a while to see if it eliminates the problem.
@@BLOCKsignalling I think I have found the problem? Not sure though. Bad connecting on the points themselves. As the train goes round the track somehow it affects the blades on the points and this causes the LEDs to flicker. Can't be sure though, because the problem is intermittent. Can't think of anything else as I have check all connections?
You said at the start it was a guess getting the black and white wires the right way round. I assume if you’d got it wrong you’d have fried the cdu? So how do you check this?
I am very certain all CDUs will be protected against incorrect polarity, as many are designed for an AC input so will have rectifier diodes on their input. If the polarity is incorrect, they just won't charge. No damage should occur.
Man on a Mission thanks
To avoid any strands shorting out always solder the ends of the cable first safety first
Soldered wire ends can become loose over time as the solder migrates away from the point where the terminal screw makes contact.
@@BLOCKsignallingUK I have been in our model railway club since 1985 and all our wire ends are fluxed and soldered so there are no stray ends. Not once have we had a joint become loose as you describe. Any way better than stray wires causing shorts. Just remember folks just starting out in the hobby aren't as cued up as us older modeler's
Hi. I have a dell, 19.5 v, 3.34 amp, 65 watt laptop lead. Would that be OK for the power for cdu as you have done. Many thanks.
I would think so. Good idea to insert a 1A or 2A fuse.
One question though: for the 2nd solenoid motor, where would I attach the LEDs? Would both the positives go into output terminal 2, and then 1 of the negatives into C1 and the other into C2? It strikes me that C1 and C2 would get quite crowded if that is the case. Thanks.
Yes that is correct. See: www.blocksignalling.co.uk/index.php/points-position-indicator-ppi4-dc
+Steven Heaton ah thanks for that, most helpful :-)
Yes that is the case. C1 and C2 won't get crowded in practice as the cathodes of the leds will be connected on the rear of the panel, rather than at the PPI.
Non electrician question. What was the other bit that got cut off with the connector?
That is a ferrite choke (for interference supression). I should probably have cut the other side of it and kept it on the cable.
Man on a Mission thank you.
I have a CDU2C connected to AC power on the transformer. Can I hook up the PPI to the CDU output? i.e. is the power output from the CDU DC?
You cannot use the CDU output as that falls to zero each time the points are operated. Please see here for the wiring: www.blocksignalling.co.uk/pdfs/50LF1L.pdf
@@BLOCKsignallingUK Thank you. I have ordered a couple of these and wa a little concerned that the Blocksignalling CDU is wired up to AC power - I am guessing the output to the point motors (DC?) won't affect the PPI
@@paulsimpson8578 The CDU takes in AC or DC power and converts it to DC for the output.
hi just downloaded instructions but is there a video of this that i can download as i find it alot easier to follow a video and pause than keep reading doing a bit then read and so on
Do you mean the CDU or PPI instructions?
Great information. Which CDU and PPI are you using? Part numbers please
In the video it is the BLOCKsignalling CDU2RL and the PPI4.
What kind of Dell charger was that.I've cut up 2 old chargers I had and none of them had 2 wires in there like the one in the video did?
From what I saw it has 3 cables and he cut off the thinner 1
Thank for making things so much clearer ......brilliant ......regards fred....ps are those leads available?
many thanks
Hi David,
Im really annoyed because your video is the best out there for wiring up point motors. Unfortunately as im trying to watch it the cursed spinning ring keeps spinning and i cant here what you are saying, so I am flicking through it on static pics to guess hows its done. I still think I have it now ha ha ha . thanks for it anyway.
All the best
Duncan.
Perhaps if you come back to the video later you will have a better connection.
Hi Steven,
Sorry I got your name wrong on last message. For some reason all other videos play but yours ????????
But ive got a still of the wiring set up. if I want more than 1 point motor do I loop from switch to switch ??
Regards
Duncan.
@@duncan1945 Yes that's right. You loop the positive to each control panel switch, and loop the negative to each points' motor common.
Thanks Steven, youve been a great help.
All the best
Duncan.
hi would a pc power supply work with a 12 volt out put ? i am looking to buy this from your site for my lay out only just finished installing the point motors
Hi, a 12V DC power supply would be too low a voltage. You ideally need 20V DC or above (or 12V AC or above).
Don't exceed 25V DC or 16V AC, otherwise you will damage the CDU. Make sure you use adequate wiring. For more information on wiring sizes, see: www.blocksignalling.co.uk/index.php/capacitor-discharge-unit-cdu1c-cdu2c-cdu4c
12V DC would be too low. You really need about 20V DC or 16V AC.
BLOCKsignalling If I keep pushing the switch in the same direction will the Led,s remain constant or change ?
They would remain constant on the side you are pushing.
What are these switches called please
TO AVOID STRANDS OF WIRE SHORTING OUT SOLDER THE STRIPPED WIRES AND NO CHANCE OF SHORTING
Can you shout a bit louder please?
Not being electrically minded can't work out where all the other LEDs are going, doesn't appear to be plenty holes.
To Stop stands shorting out solder the wire ends and they wont short out simple
Agreed, soldering or crimps are the way to go. But in the video I wanted to show people without these tools should not be held back.
Then show them how to do it so that there is no chance of short circuits happening
There are plenty of soldering video on youtube, so I don't think there is any more I can add.