Making a Rustic 3 Legged Stool - Vintage Lens Test - 29mm Meyer Optik Gorlitz Orestegon f2.8
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- Опубликовано: 11 июн 2020
- In this latest vintage lens test video we watch as a rotten old railway sleeper is hand carved into the seat for rustic three legged stool.
The Meyer-Optik Gorlitz Orestegon 29mm f2.8 lens was made in Germany sometime in the 1960s - it has the EXA (or Exakta) bayonet mount. The entire video (excluding the credits at the end) was shot using this lens, using apertures between f2.8 and f5.6. The lens is quite amazing, being able to focus as close as around 10" from the subject. When shooting with the lens wide open it's nice and sharp in the centre whilst pretty blurry at the edges - it works really well for video, keeping the viewers focus on the subject in the centre. Fitted to a Panasonic Lumix GX80 Micro Four Thirds camera the lens has an equivalent focal length of 58mm.
I wanted a stool for the new workshop so I could sit down occasionally and that old railway sleeper had been sitting in the yard for years - it had a nice "distressed" look to it and I knew it would have just the right look once it was finished. The legs were just some other scrap wood that was sitting around - I used my usual oil and fire technique to give them a slightly more interesting look.
Thanks for watching - if you've enjoyed the video, why not subscribe to the channel and click on the bell icon so you get notifications when I release more videos - there will be more of this style coming soon.
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Nicely done and very very rustic.
Cheers Benedict, rustic was definitely what I was looking for. My new workshop is tiny and I can just tuck the stool out of the way when I don't need it. Many of the tools I've gathered are old so the stool matches the overall theme quite well. I would ideally have liked to make the legs out of some straight branches but short of stealing some branches from someone else's tree, that wasn't going to happen and anyway, it doesn't affect the functionality.
Nice job! I got so into the stool I forgot to scrutinize the lens. Love the outdoor sounds too.
Hi worldadventuretravel, I haven't shot any videos like this one for a while, they were always fun to make but I'm not sure how many people wanted to watch non commentary videos like this - not on my channel at any rate. You'll be glad to hear that the stool is still is still standing strong, although it's become more of a place to pile stuff that something to sit on!!!
Great "Artsy" video!! I love hearing the birds and things in the background
Cheers, I like making videos like this - I should do more, but it takes so much longer doing each project when I'm trying to film it as well.
Thanks Tim, I greatly enjoyed this beautifully made video and because it was filmed with your Meyer Optik Orestegon 29mm lens. I acquired one of those today cheaply because it is full of fungus, although it is in good external condition and is in full working order. So a breakdown and cleanup video of that lens would be very helpful! However your lens is working and clean so is probably best left undisturbed :-)
Hi Richard, glad you liked the video - the Orestegon is a fantastic lens, I'm really pleased with mine - the thing that sets it aside from my other vintage wide lenses is the minimum focusing distance - really helpful when you're trying to shoot an entire video using just one lens. I'm planning another similar lens test video soon but if I need to get in close I'll have to put a close up diopter lens on the front.
I wasn't planning on taking my lens apart - I tend to only take them apart when they need it. I've just had a quick look at the front - the front lens name ring can be removed first using a friction tool (either a commercial one or a home made version - if you haven't seen it, have a look at my Prinzflex lens repair video to see how I cobble together a friction tool - or for that matter, the same method will feature on this Friday's video). The actual front element retaining ring has 2 small notches that can be opened using a lens wrench (you can see one of these in my recent Makinon lens repair video) - that video might be worth watching just for my general recommendations such as removing the elements using a suction tool rather than tipping them out onto a cloth - I've been caught out in the past when several elements came out at the same time and I didn't know which way they went back in - it took a fair bit of trial and error to get the orientation correct again. There's a grub screw that secures the front bezel in place so you can't simply unscrew it - you'll need a fairly tiny screwdriver - smaller than 1mm wide (you could use a 1mm screwdriver and slim it down a bit before using it).
That's as far as I've looked at the moment - with all lenses it's worth proceeding with caution and if necessary, put it back together and think about it for a while.
Hope that helps a tiny bit.
@@GrumpyTim Thanks so much for taking the time to look at your Orestegon, that's been a great help to get started. Unfortunately my front element is like milk, I use washing up liquid like you but it hasn't touched the haze :-( It is a thick element, doesn't look like a glued group. I have left cold cream soaking into the cloudy rear of the glass. I might have to keep an eye out for a broken one with a clear front glass. At least it was cheap :-)
You are using the Orestegon on a micro 4/3 camera, I use Sony full frame so my experience would be a bit different, still focus to a foot, but you will get closer and only use the sharper centre of the lens.
I have most of the lens repair tools, just looking to order the suction pick-up though. I enjoyed the Makinon 24mm video too, I have two different designs of a Mitakon 24mm, different construction but similar haze issues from small elements deep inside. I will view the Prinzflex video to see your friction approach, I have the proper rubber set but they won't grip some of the Japanese name plates including Chinon.
I've seen people glue a rubber disc to a suitable sized socket amongst other things to use as a friction tool - I think anything will do so long as nothing touches the glass itself. I buy sheets of rubber in different thicknesses from ebay and use them for so many repairs - I've made drive tyres for audio tape recorders, gaskets, feet for things that were missing feet etc. i cut my discs using an OLFA circle cutter - I've used that thing so much over the years, it's great.
As far as your front element goes, I've been lucky so far and not had any really bad ones. I've heard of using white vinegar to dissolve calcium deposits on a lens and also using Hydrogen Peroxide - I haven't used either of these techniques so I can't comment on them.
I did read something somewhere about someone using white vinegar and it turned their lens opaque - maybe it reacted with the coatings on the glass.
Good point about the minimum focus distance but on the other hand, you get the benefit of a genuine 29mm wide lens which is pretty cool!!!
@@cameratrav Have you tried using the stuff that cleans and clears cloudy headlights ? That works on many things maybe it will work on your lens. Just a thought :)
@@Waynesbusinesschanne Thanks for the thought, unfortunately, the fungus had etched its way into the glass of the front element. I think headlights get a 'film' of dirt over them, etching is permanent, whatever the chemical. Anyway I recently gave the lens away, with a broken Praktica, to a friend who wanted a display item. i now have a better copy of the 29mm, less pretty as it is the black Pentacon version.