Make sure you use Mitutoyo calipers for scribing lines on hard materials in the lathe. The combination of expensive calipers and your lathe's highest RPM setting ensure that the lines will come out very neat. And the little screw end of your Mitutoyo micrometer makes a great hammer for bashing things into alignment in the chuck. Just some pro tips to save you time.
well it's a lathe ruclips.net/user/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
Thank you Ade, Excellent little project. Took a bit longer than 15 mins for myself but it was the first use of my super 7 (Never used a metal lathe before). Can't believe how well it works! Really has inspired and given me the courage and confidence to go further. Lot to learn still!
G’day ADE, top idea, got five kids in mind. As for chocking, when a child is old enough to flick their fingers I’d say they’re old enough not to eat it, caution ensure the youngest in the household meets the criteria. We worry so much. Cheers, Peter
very nice! I'll give it a shot when my lathe arrives. I'll use the aluminum though, as the brass would be a very expensive lesson for all my mistakes to be
@LawTaranis - the rear parting tool-post is a design by George H Thomas in 1973, the drawings are available in chapter 30 of Ian Bradbury's book, The Amateurs Workshop. The casting kit is still available via Hemingway kits. It is a very useful tool on the Myford 7 series
Big thumbs up ! Recently got a a Myford 7 (1952) And had a practice today . One spinner in brass the other in aluminium. Longer than 15 mins I have got to get a quick change toolpost ! Many thanks ! Are there more ? 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Yep the sizes are approximate, but one thing you have to learn as a beginner is to get dimensions accurate. So it is better to practise that on object like this where it is not critical, start practising getting accurate dimensions from the start.
@Ade Swash yep, true. I soon found that once I could do a little turning the matter of accuracy quickly arose, so here I am learning every day (and a beginner, with less than a handful of things made). Loved the vid!!
Excellent video, Ade. Clear and concise as always. Slightly concerned that my ML7 doesn't have the long cross slide and that I'll make a pig's breakfast of parting-off. Only one way to find out, I guess... Many thanks for posting.
dear Ade, I was very fortunate to have inherited a 1949 ML7 from my late uncle who was a life long engineer, unfortunately I have a very limited knowledge of what can be achieved on it or how to go about achieving it, I find your videos very informative and would be grateful for any tips and advice you may be able to give without me becoming a pest, the lathe its self seems in good working order and i have tinkered with it with varying degrees of success on a few projects, I have noticed that mine is blue, most peoples are grey, and there are parts on your lathe that are not on mine, I understand that each one was probably uesed for a specific job but each time i watch a video of an ML7 i look and think, I havent got that bit, like your thread turning indicator and so on, i would be grateful for any tips and help,, ,, , yours john
Hi John, first off, the ML7 is a superb lathe, very adaptable for many uses, there are many accessories and additions. RUclips is not the best place for comments on advice, so I suggest you join the Myford Lathes facebook group facebook.com/groups/917590484920210 where you will find many users with a vast experience of this great lathe. Kind regards. Ade
Hi Ade, My father has different type of lathe machines in India. He has business since last 50 years. I would like to connect with you and discuss about future projects in which we can work together.
@@AdeSwash I'm always open to new ideas. The reason I'm asking is understanding this is a quick project, I figured 3 turns of your wheel is 30mm and would be quicker. I'm happy I found your video by the way, and as soon as I get some brass, my 2 little ones may just have some of these things under the Christmas tree.
@@hackish1 It isn't that simple, the ML7 is imperial, so 3 turns of my lead screw hand wheel will advance 9.525mm (3x 0.125 inch) so to advance 30mm I would need to use the hand wheel to get to 1.18 inches, which would require me to stop and think, do a calculation, and set the handwheel to the correct setting, as you can see, the calipers win over :) Regards. Ade
Hi John, setting the tool at an angle creates the form of the tool, so it will impart the tool shape, using the topslide at an angle cuts a taper at the angle of the topslide. Ade
how would you know? news traveled around so slow those days it likely die off before you heard it. these days everyone and their dog could know a kid is coking on a marble before he even turns blue. not to mention there was a lot more privacy in the "good old days"
Holy Cow! Using the caliper points to scribe a moving part in a chuck, 'nice' way to wreck a caliper, I'd be fired if I did that! (idea, make a scriber point and mount in a quick change tool holder!)
It's brass mate, high feed high speed, deep cuts when roughing, so long as your machine has the power and RIGIDITY. We used to take massive cuts on brass and alli but my machines definitely had the capabilities not to stall. Shit loads of power and mega rigid🙂
@@AdeSwash What a waste, what was I thinking? Ok, new word (as of 1565) swarf. Sounds great. Next time I find someone as absentminded as me, I will use that for a nickname.
@@jwstanley2645 That's the nature of the beast, you have to remove stock to turn a part. All my swarf goes off for recyling so very little is wasted in reality
Only untrained amateurs do such things. There are plenty of low cost marking-out tools available, even a vernier caliper with a roller for one jaw and a scriber for the other, see Banggood or ebay. No Tradesman would use a measuring tool in such a manner, let alone pass such bad practices along to amateurs in the form of "how to" videos. Ade even uses the example of another untrained amateur, Clickspring, to justify his own bad practices. Such practices simply wouldn't be tolerated in an engineering machine shop or toolroom.
Because most hobby machinists use sub $10 callipers, and for $10 these make great marking out tools, we are just being resourceful and making the best of what we have - our tools, our rules :)
I have done this for years, it is a very convenient way of marking out and causes no harm to the caliper. The tools are my own so no one is gonna’ kick my ass!
G'day Ade, It's Geoff from downunder Melbourne Australia. I did expect a reply from you like that.I don't care if it's your caliper, it's tool abuse a precison measuring instrument cheap or not. If you were working in my shop and I seen you doing that , it would be onya bike and don't come back. As I said not a good look. COOEE GE🎃FF
Hi again Geoff, do you follow Clickspring?, he is also from downunder and a highly regarded clock-smith and precision instrument maker, he uses his caliper for marking out almost exclusively, also, most machinists do not use them for precision work as they are not really considered precision enough, compared to a micrometer for instance. G'day from UK
Make sure you use Mitutoyo calipers for scribing lines on hard materials in the lathe.
The combination of expensive calipers and your lathe's highest RPM setting ensure that the lines will come out very neat.
And the little screw end of your Mitutoyo micrometer makes a great hammer for bashing things into alignment in the chuck.
Just some pro tips to save you time.
Lol!
HAHAHAHAHAHHAHA, that made my day lol
Just got my machine today, and ready to kick it off like a dead lepers head. Thanks from Australia!
hey Kart. from Shayne....Vic. .Australia
That's a visual... 😂
well it's a lathe ruclips.net/user/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
Thank you Ade,
Excellent little project. Took a bit longer than 15 mins for myself but it was the first use of my super 7 (Never used a metal lathe before). Can't believe how well it works! Really has inspired and given me the courage and confidence to go further. Lot to learn still!
Good to hear Chris, from tiny acorns .....
G’day ADE, top idea, got five kids in mind. As for chocking, when a child is old enough to flick their fingers I’d say they’re old enough not to eat it, caution ensure the youngest in the household meets the criteria. We worry so much. Cheers, Peter
"ish" is my favorite disclaimer. Nice relaxing project for an evening
Awesome project, thank you for sharing
What a great idea! I'm in the process of getting my first mini lathe to learn on, so this will be one of the first projects I'll do. Cheers Ade 👍🏻
Have fun!
very nice!
I'll give it a shot when my lathe arrives. I'll use the aluminum though, as the brass would be a very expensive lesson for all my mistakes to be
Thanks for posting this. Loving that music!
I like the opposed mount for your parting tool. I'll have to copy that.
@LawTaranis - the rear parting tool-post is a design by George H Thomas in 1973, the drawings are available in chapter 30 of Ian Bradbury's book, The Amateurs Workshop. The casting kit is still available via Hemingway kits. It is a very useful tool on the Myford 7 series
Ade,
Love the spinners, Great vid. Gives me a new way to try to make a top...
Thanks.
A very nice beginner's project indeed. Top-notch in fact :)
Thanks Juan :)
Big thumbs up ! Recently got a a Myford 7 (1952)
And had a practice today .
One spinner in brass the other in aluminium.
Longer than 15 mins I have got to get a quick change toolpost !
Many thanks !
Are there more ?
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
excellent project.
Thanks Professor Holland. Regards. Ade
Yep the sizes are approximate, but one thing you have to learn as a beginner is to get dimensions accurate. So it is better to practise that on object like this where it is not critical, start practising getting accurate dimensions from the start.
Accuracy comes with practice, most beginners just want to make something functional or beautiful
@Ade Swash yep, true. I soon found that once I could do a little turning the matter of accuracy quickly arose, so here I am learning every day (and a beginner, with less than a handful of things made). Loved the vid!!
Great simple project, wish I'd thought of it when I bought my first lathe :-)
simple is the best way to start out :)
Great video...just considering purchasing a warco mini lathe so looking for projects and found this one...just about to subscribe as well...
Just found your channel, just bought a Myford Ml7
beautiful
Give em to the kids... Or maybe not, they'll choke on them these days.. so funny, sad and true! Thanks for the share.
Nice little job, little tip, use an old paint brush n the tool insert when machining brass, saves a lot of flying mess.
Nice tip, thanks Chris :)
you are a lot, a lot faster on the lathe then me :)
Very video, thanks I like the way ur cutoff tool works, I have a Atlas lathe I am going to c if I can make it fit
The way urs dose.
Excellent video, Ade. Clear and concise as always. Slightly concerned that my ML7 doesn't have the long cross slide and that I'll make a pig's breakfast of parting-off. Only one way to find out, I guess... Many thanks for posting.
Hi Russell, mine is also the standard size cross slide, so no problem with that
Hi Ade. Good video, love your measurements. good for this project, a good beginners project.
Regards Shayne -- Australia
Thanks 👍
Thanks for the video, inspiring for a newbie like me.
cool gonna try one now!
I'm with you on hogging off material with deep cuts. The Myford is capable, so why not. I can't wait for grandchildren, so I can make these for them.
Awesome video, where did you get the solid metal rod?
dear Ade, I was very fortunate to have inherited a 1949 ML7 from my late uncle who was a life long engineer, unfortunately I have a very limited knowledge of what can be achieved on it or how to go about achieving it, I find your videos very informative and would be grateful for any tips and advice you may be able to give without me becoming a pest, the lathe its self seems in good working order and i have tinkered with it with varying degrees of success on a few projects, I have noticed that mine is blue, most peoples are grey, and there are parts on your lathe that are not on mine, I understand that each one was probably uesed for a specific job but each time i watch a video of an ML7 i look and think, I havent got that bit, like your thread turning indicator and so on, i would be grateful for any tips and help,, ,, , yours john
Hi John, first off, the ML7 is a superb lathe, very adaptable for many uses, there are many accessories and additions. RUclips is not the best place for comments on advice, so I suggest you join the Myford Lathes facebook group facebook.com/groups/917590484920210 where you will find many users with a vast experience of this great lathe. Kind regards. Ade
Hi Ade,
My father has different type of lathe machines in India. He has business since last 50 years. I would like to connect with you and discuss about future projects in which we can work together.
Ayup there Ade every time i hear that intro music i expect to see Basil Rathbone and Nigel Bruce step onto the screen .ATB Andy.
I've never really seen a caliper used in that fashion. I was wondering why you wouldn't use the carriage indicator to dimension the part?
Simple answer, quicker and easier, it is a 15 minute project :)
@@AdeSwash I'm always open to new ideas. The reason I'm asking is understanding this is a quick project, I figured 3 turns of your wheel is 30mm and would be quicker. I'm happy I found your video by the way, and as soon as I get some brass, my 2 little ones may just have some of these things under the Christmas tree.
@@hackish1 It isn't that simple, the ML7 is imperial, so 3 turns of my lead screw hand wheel will advance 9.525mm (3x 0.125 inch) so to advance 30mm I would need to use the hand wheel to get to 1.18 inches, which would require me to stop and think, do a calculation, and set the handwheel to the correct setting, as you can see, the calipers win over :) Regards. Ade
This video was approved by Mr Approximately
👍🙂
Thank you :)
Thanks! Just got my mini lathe. You turned the tool turret for one cut, and angled the base slide for another.....how to decide which to angle?
Hi John, setting the tool at an angle creates the form of the tool, so it will impart the tool shape, using the topslide at an angle cuts a taper at the angle of the topslide. Ade
Ade Swash Thanks...I think I figured it out, too. Angle the tower to set the tool, angle the base to DRIVE the tool. Very good.
Just subscribed.
Thankyou Rusty :)
do you have a video on the drop hammer?
Hi Oyle, I dont have a video on the drop hammer but the drawings are available here. wigwagengine.wixsite.com/wigwag
Great project dear man 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Love It!!! Thanks a lot!
Glad you like it!
Looks fun. Is this set to the max speed? Have just got a Myford ML7 and have some brass so will have a go as my first project.
Hi Andrew, yes this is max speed on the ML7, brass is best at high speeds
I am new to turning myself, what size tooling do you use in the Dickson style qctp? Trying to get my head around the tooling hss or carbide ?
Hi Irvine, I use 3/8 or 1/4 HSS and carbide
@@AdeSwash thanks really enjoying your videos hopefully I’ll get the courage to build a wig wag!
Darn kids, choke on anything these day's. Ah the good old days, when kids played with marbles and didnt eat them
how would you know? news traveled around so slow those days it likely die off before you heard it.
these days everyone and their dog could know a kid is coking on a marble before he even turns blue.
not to mention there was a lot more privacy in the "good old days"
kids today are doomed!
Hi Ade do you undertake commissions?
I occasionally make things for friends and aquaintances, email me with some more detail swashade 'at' gmail.com
its the hogging off with my chinese 7x14 thats the killer rest is easy
Hi Stan, just hog to the limit of the machine ;)
Nice but beginners like me can't do it for 15 minutes.
Just take as long as you need :) the end product is the achievment :) Regards. Ade
Holy Cow! Using the caliper points to scribe a moving part in a chuck, 'nice' way to wreck a caliper, I'd be fired if I did that! (idea, make a scriber point and mount in a quick change tool holder!)
Thanks
do you have a blueprint for this ?
the plans are in the video at 14:15
boy you were really taking off a lot of material that on each pass that's not really advisable that's where all the noise was coming from
It is Brass, brass is always squeaky, no lube. You turn roughing cuts to the capability of your lathe
Never mind the fact he uses his calipers while its spinning to mark it.. for beginners??? Trying to mame ppl?
It's brass mate, high feed high speed, deep cuts when roughing, so long as your machine has the power and RIGIDITY. We used to take massive cuts on brass and alli but my machines definitely had the capabilities not to stall. Shit loads of power and mega rigid🙂
There we have 95% of one's stock brass becomes sand and grit on the floor. Cute.
Well, it become brass swarf on the floor, there is no sand or grit in brass
@@AdeSwash What a waste, what was I thinking? Ok, new word (as of 1565) swarf. Sounds great. Next time I find someone as absentminded as me, I will use that for a nickname.
@@jwstanley2645 That's the nature of the beast, you have to remove stock to turn a part. All my swarf goes off for recyling so very little is wasted in reality
2:56 EH? WHASSAT? YOU SAY SUM'N? ME GEAR IS BEATIN? I CANNAE HEAR NON! I THINK ME EARS IS BLEEDIN...
use er collet next time? 🤔
3 jaw is just fine for this type of work
@@AdeSwashsomething to stop jaws from marring the piece then
@@SodiumInteresting Ah! I see what you mean now, I'd forgotten about that bit of the video 😀
Why so many dislikes?
my gosh you cut down and wasted so much still to make that little thing course I guess if you're just playing around it's good practice
If you need to turn a job to a dimension, then yes, you make swarf!
Reminds me of the Simpsons and the pencil factory. Turned a whole tree down to a single pencil.
why do folk use callipers as scribers?
Because they are perfect for the job
Only untrained amateurs do such things. There are plenty of low cost marking-out tools available, even a vernier caliper with a roller for one jaw and a scriber for the other, see Banggood or ebay. No Tradesman would use a measuring tool in such a manner, let alone pass such bad practices along to amateurs in the form of "how to" videos. Ade even uses the example of another untrained amateur, Clickspring, to justify his own bad practices. Such practices simply wouldn't be tolerated in an engineering machine shop or toolroom.
@@rossgee1091 totally agree it a deplorable way to use an instrument
A caliper is not a scriber
Mine are :)
Why does every hobby machinist think it's ok to do that to calipers? FFS.
Because most hobby machinists use sub $10 callipers, and for $10 these make great marking out tools, we are just being resourceful and making the best of what we have - our tools, our rules :)
I would have got a kick in the pants if I used a digital caliper to scribe lines,not a good look
I have done this for years, it is a very convenient way of marking out and causes no harm to the caliper. The tools are my own so no one is gonna’ kick my ass!
I hate seeing vernier type callipers being abused in this way!!!
G'day Ade,
It's Geoff from downunder Melbourne Australia. I did expect a reply from you like that.I don't care if it's your caliper, it's tool abuse a precison measuring instrument cheap or not.
If you were working in my shop and I seen you doing that , it would be onya bike and don't come back.
As I said not a good look.
COOEE
GE🎃FF
Hi again Geoff, do you follow Clickspring?, he is also from downunder and a highly regarded clock-smith and precision instrument maker, he uses his caliper for marking out almost exclusively, also, most machinists do not use them for precision work as they are not really considered precision enough, compared to a micrometer for instance. G'day from UK
Poor calipers……