I agree to put this together can drive someone crazy. It is really on point for a RUclips video. But it is not a circuitry that will last long or is efficient you will need lots of current that comes with heat. P-type pose a bigger resistance than n-type which means heat. Also the Nano cannot supply enough current to the lo side fets, therefore they are not open in time which poses an even bigger resistance which means heat. To connect the gpios directly to the lo side gates is dangerous they will get damaged sooner or later, the fets supply lots of current during closing the pull downs won't change that. I think if you add bjt's to the lo side gates aswell you have a good circuitry to play around with. Anyway it doesn't need to be efficient the task was to show how this works and he could not have made a better job.
I have been trying for almost a year to wrap my head around the actual mechanisms that make a DC motor work. I’ve likely watched almost every video on RUclips on this subject but wasn’t able to ever fully grasp it - that is until seeing your video. This video and your demonstration just made everything click so well - as another said - the best bldc video on the internet. Very simple and well-explained. Thank you for your work.
.I was about to say that those magnets are not that fast because of the small diameter, but assuming a span of 60mm those magnets have a tangential velocity of around 170kph or 105mph (at 15k RPM) 😅 But - based on the cross-sectional view at 0:38 the centre of mass of each magnet is below the surface and no force is applied that could toss them out of there. Which leaves a breakage of the plastic carrier as a potential danger. Considering the yield strength of typical 3D printing filaments and the low weights at work I would bet on the carrier. The loosening of the screw is most probably the biggest concern 🤔 I think the best approach is to calculate the actual risk and then be better safe than sorry nonetheless
@@bequ3 Or, just prop up pillows and put in a face shield. Doing the calculations are fun, but propping up safety devices will cover you regardless of what the numbers say.
It's really amazing to see someone wind a magnet and do their best to keep the lines parallel and the coil as tight as possible! There are so many people who just lazily wind magnets and it's infuriating!
I've had a lot of success with putting air core coils on both sides of the magnets. This eliminates hysteresis from metal cores. It also "pinches" the magnet between the two coil fields instead of thrusting against the bearing, eliminating lateral bearing loads. The smaller the coil/magnet gap, the more force realized. Hope these ideas help with your next version :)
Nice design. I have found that magnets will come out from friction fits over time, so I now slide them into a slot, rather than friction-fit. I make the slot have 1 layer of 3d printed plastic, like 0.1mm or 0.2mm between the bottom of the magnet surface to ensure the can't come out. I even found that crazy glue isn't even good enough as it won't stick to the nickel coating on the magnet that well.
@@LeviJanssen Ok, then you should design a hole in the middle so you can run wires through it, so when you create an eventual robot arm you have a way of easily running the wires. Given that this is a 3D printed design, it would finally be easy to do that. Finding strong motors with a hole in the middle is quite hard still, so this could be game changer. Can't wait til you add a planetary gearbox to your design with say a 6:1 ratio so it's backdrivable and you can detect the reverse torque against the motor.
You can also operate it with an electronic speed controller (ESC). I guess you have eddy current losses in the core screws of the coils. The coils should not be too long. You can use FEMM to have a look at the magnetic field distribution of the permanent magnet disks. You can use a magnetic manifold disk made of low carbon steel at the opposite site of the permanent magnets to the coils to increase the magnetic flux. FEMM shows that it helps a lot. The best ist to use a rotor with two permanent magnet rotor disks with magnetic manifolds at both sides of the coils. The coils should not be longer than the length of the permanent magnets. In order to get a good flux penetration, the inner diameter of the coils should not be smaller than the outer diameter of the permanent magnet disks. You can use FEMM for motor optimization. It is a trade-off between maximum flux through the coils and minimum coil resistance. Using more height for the coils will reduce the coil inner resistance but also drop the magnetic flux through the coils. I've found that 6 coils and 8 permanent magnets is a good number. If you need more motor speed, you can reduce to 3 coils and 4 permanent magnets. If you need more torque you can get to 12 coils and 16 permanent magnets. You can make two of these motors to use one as a generator for a dynamometer for power tests. You can break the generator by use of a 3-phase rectifier and an active constant voltage load to set the break operating point to a more or less constant motor speed. Until now you just operated the motor under idle conditions, not under a break load. You have to consider that not the motor speed is important but the power and the efficiency under a certain motor speed.
Maybe. But it's "brake," not "break." As in, "Put on the brake to stop." NOT, "I'll break your head." This guy doesn't need your "help." You're just showing off, I know, but you made yourself look like an idjut instead. You shouldn't be trying to school him or anyone else. He'll go far, doesn't need any "help" from you! 🤪
@@abdelkrimaldagamseh7754 the easiest way is make a test coil with a certain number of windings, spin the rotor with the desired speed or with a well determined speed and measure the rms-voltage at the coil. Now you have the winding to voltage / speed ratio and you can calculate the winding number for a certain voltage and speed. It is proportional to the voltage and inverse proportional to the speed. The wire perimeter should be selected to get less than 7 to 10 A per mm square.
You can use an odd number of permanent magnets if you have them all the same polarity and have the drive coils alternate polarity. Then you can drive it at half duty cycle to push it away from one and towards the other with one switching element. Then you could use a H bridge to make it 100% duty by reversing the polarity every other cycle. I've built a couple of motors like this with success.
@@saeedgnu My motors use around 15uW to turn at around 60-120 rpm running in half duty using a reed switch to trigger. My smaller one has three magnets and six coils. Since there are three magnets and six coils, it's easy enough to use the magnets to trigger one half of the drive wave form. Of course, if you want full duty things get a lot more complicated. Maybe you could just use some diodes and a change over reed switch? But you might want more dead spot between phase energization and that wouldn't allow it. Transistors would allow precise timings and are very efficient for switching, but with a 15uW motor they massively increase the total system energy consumption. However if you used ball bearings instead of jewel bearings and rewound the coils with thicker wire, you could massively increase the RPM and torque, increasing the power consumption of the motor which would decrease the proportion of the energy consumption that goes to switching.
That is nice how it functions without any ferrous cores! Designed a pancake coil PCB recently and it would only get hot when about 1A was running through it. Didn't magnetize much if at all so far.
Might try and build this one, been getting into 3D printing recently, boy is it a tinker. I feel like there are 20 puzzles to solve before getting consistently accurate durable prints. Last was bed adhesion, now I’m working on dimensional accuracy. Spent ten hours on an aerosol design and it was way off
Pretty dang cool, but you might want to test things within some sort of lexan box or at least have a scatter shield up for yourself in case that thing grenades.
You should modify the 3D print for the rotor and add fan blades, I wanna see what kind of CFM it can hit. You should also measure what torque it’s producing
You can make your design more efficient by making your coils oblong/ovoid shaped, or triangular; And getting bar shaped magnets and pressing them into a drum shaped rotor, set inside the coils.
Mind Blowing! You pushed this thing to rotate! Now seriously. Some effectiveness measuring, or, may be, Hal sensors for feedback, or something not so childish. Nothing.
A good scale up might be arranging your permanent magnets in a halbach array. This arrangement causes the magnetic field to focus toward your stator electromagnets. It might be interesting to see how much this enhances the motor efficiency. Field strength from the permanent magnets would be somewhat stronger for more mass in magnets. Then an identical arrangement on the othe side of the rotor to make full use of the stator magnetic field.
He have a adreno right there. He could just sence the how far it is behind I phase by sensing the current. Really, realistically he would only need to do that on one phase because they propobly is about as far behind all three
Commercial ESCs have rotor position sensing (through back EMF) and hence keep the rotating magnetic field in sync with the current applied to coils. They never lose sync and always keep the motor running. This toy ESC continuously loses sync (even with no load applied) and hence the motor stalls. It is unusable for everything except RUclips videos. Additionally those MOSFETs are driven at 5V maximum (the voltage of the microcontroller output pins, if not even 3.3V!!), which usually it is not enough to turn them fully on, and hence the losses are high. On top of the horrendous losses of the motor (no ferromagnetic core).
youd probably be able to go much faster if you had a feedback loop so that you can accelerate the fastest without loosing syncronization as with your open loop, all you need is 6 resistor and 3 ADC pins on your arduino.
I wonder how much torque this little beauty could create with a small gearbox. It does have a lot of speed. Over 10k with a motor built from scratch is nothing to laugh at, that's fricking impressive at the very least.
the sine wave is actually not the most efficcient way to drive a bldc motor. When the magnet is far away from the coil you want the maximum voltage thus torque on that coil.
Incredible work, this is so cool. I'd love to build this with my kid. Any chance you can share (or sell) the STLs or OnShape model and more detail about the build (coils, schematic, magnet sizes, etc). I love that you shared your cad model but it is "view only".
What is the significance of the 2 to 3 rule ??? Would having magnets on both sides of the coils or two sets of electromagnets on the outside and a magnets in the middle increase efficiency Sir ?? Nice video too.
tbh it's much easier to make a decent brushless motor than a decent brushed motor out of random stuff. (though if you use thick copper tape with a rotor design that locks it in place and actual carbon brushes, it would work, but is more complicated.) if you add 3 hall sensors it would work well. also please protect yourself, put a wooden box or an acrylic bowl around it when trying it, a broken magnet flying at 100km/h is no joke.
@@BlondieHappyGuy tbh it costs only cents more to use a brushless motor rather than a brushed motor when making a power tool, it's just that they can overcharge for it since it's the fancy new thing.
Hi Levi, My son and I love your videos and we would like to export the on shape diagram. Are you willing to make it exportable? Even if you can't make it exportable, I hope that you are having a fantastic week and I hope this comment gets youtube to show this video to more people.
8:19 - Wow that is super quiet. Excellent explanation. Can you provide the mosfet switching circuit, why does it need P and N channel mosfets is it due to polarity?
Wow, such RPM seems pretty remarkable for such design to me. I wonder if it could get even better if you added second plate with magnets on the opposite side.
what practical things can you do with this? I would like videos of this powering something such as a typically electric/battery screwdriver, or a water pump.
I'm sure someone could take the sound from the motor and turn that into samples to use as a digital instrument. I'm kind of interested to see what that would sound like.
The energy in those rotating magnets is quite high... I am assuming that the centres of the magnets are 2cm from the centre of the shaft, in which case had a magnet come loose at max speed (especially considering you didn't glue or epoxy them?!?!), it would have been hurling at your surrounding equipment, or indeed at you, at about 26m/s. Sure, probably not enough to penetrate your skin, but enough to break finger bones or give rather significant blunt force trauma. I absolutely suggest that next time you don't have any "loose" parts, wear some proper eye protection (no, your glasses do not count) and also fix the motor to something like a vice, so that if something does go wrong, the sudden imbalance isn't going to send the whole motor flying across the room, disintegrating and spewing shrapnel everywhere while smashing into things. Other than the safety negligence, good job !- next time add hall effect sensors and use the state from those to control the speed of the motor... it would also dramatically increase the potential torque output ;)
Hey dude, nice vid! Now add the second set of coils from upside! You'll double your power and usage of magnets! BTW 3d printing is mostly not strong enough for high performance motors.
2 things I tought would happen is 1) it will brake and one or more magnets will hit and destroy the monitor and the oscilloscope. 2) It will brake and some of the magnets will hit you.
Hello, I want to test your project, but I have a question. do you have a schematic of the circuit you made on the breadboard to control the brushless motor?
Larger shaft low grade torx to attach the coils to the frame would make the flux more effective (at the expense of some cogging). Comment mostly for algo... I'm sure you considered that. And.. I don't usually go here, but please put some shielding between you and those high angular velocity components - even a section of a two liter soda bottle would absorb most of any RUD. 2*pi*2in *12500 rpm ~= 150mph shrapnel
I was thinking just an upside down tupperware container over atleast the motor. It probably wouldn't affect visibility much and be enough to drastically reduce the danger should the motor decide to deconstruct itself
It was great Can I ask what kind of metal is the metal part of the rotor of the BLdc motor, which has a magnet inside, that does not take the metal from the outside, even though it is not aluminum? Thank you in advance
Amazing job! I’d start looking into some kind of shielding or retention incase anything let’s loose. At 15k, assuming you have a 30mm diameter magnet circle, those magnets are doing 75 meters per second, enough to really break stuff if something happened. How does it work with a load? I’m not super familiar with motor design.
if that thing blew up it would have been very painful. not sure what the diameter of the rotor is, but do a tangential velocity estimation, then one of kinetic energy for each of those magnets. compare it to like an air pellet gun or a .22 also you can't just set the on time, you probably have low impedance coils and at low RPM there's no back EMF so the inrush is huge. ramp the on time with the RPM?
nice video, but technically what you built is closer to a PMSM than to a BLDC motor .the back emf that you get is a sine wave which is what pmsm motor produces,bldc motors should have a trapezoidal wave as back emf.But most people refer to pmsm as bldc, I just like to share that info for the people that need it.
OK,..... I'm totally new to this but diving in at the deep end: plan to home build a traction motor! As far as I can tell, there is little or no difference in the hardware. The major thing being the drive waveform. A BLDC uses square wave whereas the PMSM is driven by sine wave. This video has more of a hybrid, employing (by inverter naming) a modified sine wave, the "on percentage" he refers to controls the modification. Or am I missing huge chunks of geometry here?
WHat gates did you use ? Im curious if the gate opening and closing delay has any impact on it trying to activate the motor if there is any delay at all
You just created a miniature version of mine! 😂 really cool to see! Awesome to see that you also made the driver with the arduino. On my motors I’m including hall sensors to have feedback for the startup. I encourage you to include hall sensors, I will be willing to help 👍
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Showing the output from manually spinning the motor is a brilliant demonstration.
I think you have more skill then what you give yourself. Making a controller from scratch is remarkable .Can you show the circuit on paper next video
I agree to put this together can drive someone crazy. It is really on point for a RUclips video.
But it is not a circuitry that will last long or is efficient you will need lots of current that comes with heat. P-type pose a bigger resistance than n-type which means heat. Also the Nano cannot supply enough current to the lo side fets, therefore they are not open in time which poses an even bigger resistance which means heat. To connect the gpios directly to the lo side gates is dangerous they will get damaged sooner or later, the fets supply lots of current during closing the pull downs won't change that. I think if you add bjt's to the lo side gates aswell you have a good circuitry to play around with.
Anyway it doesn't need to be efficient the task was to show how this works and he could not have made a better job.
oh come on. yeah it's cool and respectable but "making a controller from scratch" is the easiest part of this whole project
@@king_james_officialclown
I had no idea I could use things I have laying around to make simple BLDCs. Such an eye opener.
The absolute clearest explanation of BLDC and controller design I've seen ... And it's axial flux. Thanks!
I have been trying for almost a year to wrap my head around the actual mechanisms that make a DC motor work. I’ve likely watched almost every video on RUclips on this subject but wasn’t able to ever fully grasp it - that is until seeing your video.
This video and your demonstration just made everything click so well - as another said - the best bldc video on the internet. Very simple and well-explained. Thank you for your work.
I’d have worried about shrapnel flying off, considering how the metal parts are secured.
Oh it's a safety feature, when the magnets fly off at Mach 3.6, the lack of magnetic field around the rotor stops the motor 👍
That's what I was thinking too. I was thinking pillows in front of monitors and a face shield for the human target.
.I was about to say that those magnets are not that fast because of the small diameter, but assuming a span of 60mm those magnets have a tangential velocity of around 170kph or 105mph (at 15k RPM) 😅 But - based on the cross-sectional view at 0:38 the centre of mass of each magnet is below the surface and no force is applied that could toss them out of there. Which leaves a breakage of the plastic carrier as a potential danger. Considering the yield strength of typical 3D printing filaments and the low weights at work I would bet on the carrier. The loosening of the screw is most probably the biggest concern 🤔
I think the best approach is to calculate the actual risk and then be better safe than sorry nonetheless
@@bequ3 Or, just prop up pillows and put in a face shield. Doing the calculations are fun, but propping up safety devices will cover you regardless of what the numbers say.
@@bequ3i would be worried about the plastic shrapnel depending on the infill
It feels so good to see you back! Do more uploads pls. Great Vid as always🤩
It's really amazing to see someone wind a magnet and do their best to keep the lines parallel and the coil as tight as possible! There are so many people who just lazily wind magnets and it's infuriating!
Neater tighter coils means better magnetic field, lazy people get lazy fields
@@andycrask3531😂😂😂😂😂 patience and wire tention are the key, I wound 36 electromagnets on my last motor build and came out really neat!
Nicely done! Cool little project.
The motor shaking at around 10:18, was due to it hitting some resonant frequency.
I've had a lot of success with putting air core coils on both sides of the magnets. This eliminates hysteresis from metal cores. It also "pinches" the magnet between the two coil fields instead of thrusting against the bearing, eliminating lateral bearing loads. The smaller the coil/magnet gap, the more force realized. Hope these ideas help with your next version :)
Nice design. I have found that magnets will come out from friction fits over time, so I now slide them into a slot, rather than friction-fit. I make the slot have 1 layer of 3d printed plastic, like 0.1mm or 0.2mm between the bottom of the magnet surface to ensure the can't come out. I even found that crazy glue isn't even good enough as it won't stick to the nickel coating on the magnet that well.
Now you should try driving it from an ESP32 or STM32 with SimpleFOC with an AS5600 measuring the angle of the rotor.
Oh, this is only the beginning. Fully custom servo actuators are inevitable. They might be a ways down the line, but they'll happen.
@@LeviJanssen Ok, then you should design a hole in the middle so you can run wires through it, so when you create an eventual robot arm you have a way of easily running the wires. Given that this is a 3D printed design, it would finally be easy to do that. Finding strong motors with a hole in the middle is quite hard still, so this could be game changer. Can't wait til you add a planetary gearbox to your design with say a 6:1 ratio so it's backdrivable and you can detect the reverse torque against the motor.
You can also operate it with an electronic speed controller (ESC). I guess you have eddy current losses in the core screws of the coils. The coils should not be too long. You can use FEMM to have a look at the magnetic field distribution of the permanent magnet disks. You can use a magnetic manifold disk made of low carbon steel at the opposite site of the permanent magnets to the coils to increase the magnetic flux. FEMM shows that it helps a lot. The best ist to use a rotor with two permanent magnet rotor disks with magnetic manifolds at both sides of the coils.
The coils should not be longer than the length of the permanent magnets. In order to get a good flux penetration, the inner diameter of the coils should not be smaller than the outer diameter of the permanent magnet disks. You can use FEMM for motor optimization. It is a trade-off between maximum flux through the coils and minimum coil resistance. Using more height for the coils will reduce the coil inner resistance but also drop the magnetic flux through the coils. I've found that 6 coils and 8 permanent magnets is a good number. If you need more motor speed, you can reduce to 3 coils and 4 permanent magnets. If you need more torque you can get to 12 coils and 16 permanent magnets.
You can make two of these motors to use one as a generator for a dynamometer for power tests. You can break the generator by use of a 3-phase rectifier and an active constant voltage load to set the break operating point to a more or less constant motor speed. Until now you just operated the motor under idle conditions, not under a break load. You have to consider that not the motor speed is important but the power and the efficiency under a certain motor speed.
Maybe. But it's "brake," not "break."
As in, "Put on the brake to stop."
NOT, "I'll break your head."
This guy doesn't need your "help."
You're just showing off, I know, but you made yourself look like an idjut instead.
You shouldn't be trying to school him or anyone else.
He'll go far, doesn't need any "help" from you! 🤪
How can I determine the number of turns in each coil?
@@abdelkrimaldagamseh7754 the easiest way is make a test coil with a certain number of windings, spin the rotor with the desired speed or with a well determined speed and measure the rms-voltage at the coil.
Now you have the winding to voltage / speed ratio and you can calculate the winding number for a certain voltage and speed. It is proportional to the voltage and inverse proportional to the speed.
The wire perimeter should be selected to get less than 7 to 10 A per mm square.
You can use an odd number of permanent magnets if you have them all the same polarity and have the drive coils alternate polarity. Then you can drive it at half duty cycle to push it away from one and towards the other with one switching element. Then you could use a H bridge to make it 100% duty by reversing the polarity every other cycle. I've built a couple of motors like this with success.
What classes are you taking? Is this EE OR CE? Are you doing masters degree?
Sounds like it would be a lot less efficent and get hot faster.
@@sa31489 I did my masters over a decade ago.
@@saeedgnu My motors use around 15uW to turn at around 60-120 rpm running in half duty using a reed switch to trigger. My smaller one has three magnets and six coils. Since there are three magnets and six coils, it's easy enough to use the magnets to trigger one half of the drive wave form.
Of course, if you want full duty things get a lot more complicated. Maybe you could just use some diodes and a change over reed switch? But you might want more dead spot between phase energization and that wouldn't allow it.
Transistors would allow precise timings and are very efficient for switching, but with a 15uW motor they massively increase the total system energy consumption. However if you used ball bearings instead of jewel bearings and rewound the coils with thicker wire, you could massively increase the RPM and torque, increasing the power consumption of the motor which would decrease the proportion of the energy consumption that goes to switching.
That is nice how it functions without any ferrous cores! Designed a pancake coil PCB recently and it would only get hot when about 1A was running through it. Didn't magnetize much if at all so far.
Might try and build this one, been getting into 3D printing recently, boy is it a tinker. I feel like there are 20 puzzles to solve before getting consistently accurate durable prints. Last was bed adhesion, now I’m working on dimensional accuracy. Spent ten hours on an aerosol design and it was way off
Pretty dang cool, but you might want to test things within some sort of lexan box or at least have a scatter shield up for yourself in case that thing grenades.
You should modify the 3D print for the rotor and add fan blades, I wanna see what kind of CFM it can hit. You should also measure what torque it’s producing
I adore the sound of it spinning up at low speed
Very nice, I never had all this technology available when I studied electrical engineering 50+ years ago!
You can make your design more efficient by making your coils oblong/ovoid shaped, or triangular;
And getting bar shaped magnets and pressing them into a drum shaped rotor, set inside the coils.
Wowzers. Sounds like a spaceship. Good on you
Mind Blowing! You pushed this thing to rotate! Now seriously. Some effectiveness measuring, or, may be, Hal sensors for feedback, or something not so childish. Nothing.
Awesome little motor, and one of the best narrated I've seen.
My god i love i can watch this type of content on demand
This was the most educational motor video I’ve ever watched. Thank you. I loved it
A good scale up might be arranging your permanent magnets in a halbach array. This arrangement causes the magnetic field to focus toward your stator electromagnets. It might be interesting to see how much this enhances the motor efficiency. Field strength from the permanent magnets would be somewhat stronger for more mass in magnets. Then an identical arrangement on the othe side of the rotor to make full use of the stator magnetic field.
Wow those rigol visuals are like visuals at a rave party. Maybe better. So pretty.
Custom controller is sick brah. Going to find another video that dives into that. You are a real G
To limit the current at the start you should implement u/f=const
He have a adreno right there. He could just sence the how far it is behind I phase by sensing the current.
Really, realistically he would only need to do that on one phase because they propobly is about as far behind all three
Nice design most of the esc i see on youtube are very complicated but yours is easy and simple.
Commercial ESCs have rotor position sensing (through back EMF) and hence keep the rotating magnetic field in sync with the current applied to coils. They never lose sync and always keep the motor running. This toy ESC continuously loses sync (even with no load applied) and hence the motor stalls. It is unusable for everything except RUclips videos.
Additionally those MOSFETs are driven at 5V maximum (the voltage of the microcontroller output pins, if not even 3.3V!!), which usually it is not enough to turn them fully on, and hence the losses are high. On top of the horrendous losses of the motor (no ferromagnetic core).
first video ever that i've seen of yours, and i have to admit, you got me boy
I am so glade no magnet hit you
youd probably be able to go much faster if you had a feedback loop so that you can accelerate the fastest without loosing syncronization as with your open loop, all you need is 6 resistor and 3 ADC pins on your arduino.
You made an axial flux motor as extra credit?! That's both insane and awesome!
props to you! what a cool project! Every step in this video depicts what I love about engineering
I wonder how much torque this little beauty could create with a small gearbox. It does have a lot of speed.
Over 10k with a motor built from scratch is nothing to laugh at, that's fricking impressive at the very least.
Great video!
Miss a few more lectures and provide us with a few more videos please.
Great work! I always enjoy whatching someone that really knows what they are doing!
the sine wave is actually not the most efficcient way to drive a bldc motor. When the magnet is far away from the coil you want the maximum voltage thus torque on that coil.
I hope you got an A! I love how you use your fingers as temperature probes. Good job at adjusting for minimum smoke. 😃
I always wonder what is the efficiency of such motors and how does it compare to manufactured ones
It would be cool to se a version where the coils are on both sides of the rotor
Great description on the sine wave and awesome results
Great job pal. nice little motor...super fast. working on something similar.
That 2 magnet, 3 coil design has been shown to function? Seems the perm mags would maybe get stuck between 2 electromags.
Great Build! Would you mind sharing the BOM for the electrical parts and the code you used?
Incredible work, this is so cool. I'd love to build this with my kid. Any chance you can share (or sell) the STLs or OnShape model and more detail about the build (coils, schematic, magnet sizes, etc). I love that you shared your cad model but it is "view only".
What is the significance of the 2 to 3 rule ??? Would having magnets on both sides of the coils or two sets of electromagnets on the outside and a magnets in the middle increase efficiency Sir ?? Nice video too.
You should upload those sounds it made without the music, really beautiful stuff
3:30 but... what happens when the motor spins fast enough to overwhelm the magnetism holding them together? Won't they fly off in all directions? 🤔
tbh it's much easier to make a decent brushless motor than a decent brushed motor out of random stuff. (though if you use thick copper tape with a rotor design that locks it in place and actual carbon brushes, it would work, but is more complicated.)
if you add 3 hall sensors it would work well.
also please protect yourself, put a wooden box or an acrylic bowl around it when trying it, a broken magnet flying at 100km/h is no joke.
@@BlondieHappyGuy tbh it costs only cents more to use a brushless motor rather than a brushed motor when making a power tool, it's just that they can overcharge for it since it's the fancy new thing.
@@BlondieHappyGuy if you use neodymium magnets and not sintered iron powder magnets it's a bit more expensive, but it's still a difference in cents.
Looks good, but wouldn't it make sense to have a second set of coils above the permanent magnets?
Hi Levi, My son and I love your videos and we would like to export the on shape diagram. Are you willing to make it exportable?
Even if you can't make it exportable, I hope that you are having a fantastic week and I hope this comment gets youtube to show this video to more people.
8:19 - Wow that is super quiet. Excellent explanation. Can you provide the mosfet switching circuit, why does it need P and N channel mosfets is it due to polarity?
Wow, such RPM seems pretty remarkable for such design to me. I wonder if it could get even better if you added second plate with magnets on the opposite side.
I hope you wear protective glases at 15.000 RPM, one of those magnets can come flying your way or a shattered plastic piece.
what practical things can you do with this? I would like videos of this powering something such as a typically electric/battery screwdriver, or a water pump.
I'm sure someone could take the sound from the motor and turn that into samples to use as a digital instrument. I'm kind of interested to see what that would sound like.
I'm pretty sure that's what Venjent does
Amazing! But i really need the driver circuit now!
Excelente work!
congrats on the 100% dude! you earned it!!
The energy in those rotating magnets is quite high... I am assuming that the centres of the magnets are 2cm from the centre of the shaft, in which case had a magnet come loose at max speed (especially considering you didn't glue or epoxy them?!?!), it would have been hurling at your surrounding equipment, or indeed at you, at about 26m/s. Sure, probably not enough to penetrate your skin, but enough to break finger bones or give rather significant blunt force trauma. I absolutely suggest that next time you don't have any "loose" parts, wear some proper eye protection (no, your glasses do not count) and also fix the motor to something like a vice, so that if something does go wrong, the sudden imbalance isn't going to send the whole motor flying across the room, disintegrating and spewing shrapnel everywhere while smashing into things.
Other than the safety negligence, good job !- next time add hall effect sensors and use the state from those to control the speed of the motor... it would also dramatically increase the potential torque output ;)
You make amazing videos
From an engineer
Any faster and that motor would have become a claymore!
Excellent! What a funn project
Can you measure how much torque it produces throughout the range of RPMs?
After your impressive explanation i can finally get rid of my combustion engine in my car and replace it with a DIY brushless motor. Future is now.
You are brave sitting that close to spinning magnets that can fly out at 12k rpm with no shielding.
I'd say pretty reckless unfortunately! Pretty cool project nonetheless
Cool intro mate! And cool project!
Which course path are you in? Great video! Have a detailed walk through on entire project?
Hey dude, nice vid! Now add the second set of coils from upside! You'll double your power and usage of magnets!
BTW 3d printing is mostly not strong enough for high performance motors.
Awesome project, well done!
Pretty dang impressive. 👌
2 things I tought would happen is 1) it will brake and one or more magnets will hit and destroy the monitor and the oscilloscope. 2) It will brake and some of the magnets will hit you.
Hello, I want to test your project, but I have a question. do you have a schematic of the circuit you made on the breadboard to control the brushless motor?
Wish I would’ve been recommended this channel before I invented the worlds most complicated esc lol. Nice video! Subbed
Well, they weren't SAFETY glasses, but at least he kept going till it failed. 😀 Excellent work!
Larger shaft low grade torx to attach the coils to the frame would make the flux more effective (at the expense of some cogging). Comment mostly for algo... I'm sure you considered that.
And.. I don't usually go here, but please put some shielding between you and those high angular velocity components - even a section of a two liter soda bottle would absorb most of any RUD. 2*pi*2in *12500 rpm ~= 150mph shrapnel
I was thinking just an upside down tupperware container over atleast the motor. It probably wouldn't affect visibility much and be enough to drastically reduce the danger should the motor decide to deconstruct itself
I think you got your extra credit.
Super helpful and well presented.
Thanks!
this was very useful and entertaining!
It was great Can I ask what kind of metal is the metal part of the rotor of the BLdc motor, which has a magnet inside, that does not take the metal from the outside, even though it is not aluminum? Thank you in advance
Amazing job! I’d start looking into some kind of shielding or retention incase anything let’s loose. At 15k, assuming you have a 30mm diameter magnet circle, those magnets are doing 75 meters per second, enough to really break stuff if something happened. How does it work with a load? I’m not super familiar with motor design.
Excellent work as always!
Great work-SUBSCRIBED !!! 😊
We need more.
if that thing blew up it would have been very painful. not sure what the diameter of the rotor is, but do a tangential velocity estimation, then one of kinetic energy for each of those magnets. compare it to like an air pellet gun or a .22
also you can't just set the on time, you probably have low impedance coils and at low RPM there's no back EMF so the inrush is huge. ramp the on time with the RPM?
Классная работа!!!!
"i dont know what that was" *tinkers* "i turned her up lets send it" 😂this guy would do well racing cars.
How difficult will it be to design a pendulum made of a permanent magnet that swings in a circle over coils?
Thats amazing XD I wanna try tossing one of those on an rc plane and see how it does
Did you add flyback diodes or do you rely on internal avalanche action to protect MOSFETs?
nice video, but technically what you built is closer to a PMSM than to a BLDC motor .the back emf that you get is a sine wave which is what pmsm motor produces,bldc motors should have a trapezoidal wave as back emf.But most people refer to pmsm as bldc, I just like to share that info for the people that need it.
OK,.....
I'm totally new to this but diving in at the deep end: plan to home build a traction motor!
As far as I can tell, there is little or no difference in the hardware. The major thing being the drive waveform. A BLDC uses square wave whereas the PMSM is driven by sine wave.
This video has more of a hybrid, employing (by inverter naming) a modified sine wave, the "on percentage" he refers to controls the modification.
Or am I missing huge chunks of geometry here?
Shouldn't there be some fly back diodes in there somewhere?
WHat gates did you use ? Im curious if the gate opening and closing delay has any impact on it trying to activate the motor if there is any delay at all
Have you looked into Polymagnets yet?
Nice!! I think luck may have been A factor in the balancing. Still, Excellent!!!
i like realizing how little i know about stuff
You just created a miniature version of mine! 😂 really cool to see! Awesome to see that you also made the driver with the arduino. On my motors I’m including hall sensors to have feedback for the startup. I encourage you to include hall sensors, I will be willing to help 👍
Can you share the circuit diagram of the motor controller.