less than 24 hours and I'm back on this channel again. I just discovered videos of people reversing their remote's using a logic analyzer. So first stop here is learning this and and back on my old standby channel. Andreas really is a treasure to this community.
I enjoyed this quiet a bit. Very cool. Since we're talking light, there is a method for discriminating different light sources that you might find helpful: All light can be polarized. Most people are familiar with polarized light be blocked by orthagonal filters, but, what they forget, is that there's a third level of polarization. That third level is 'color shifting'. Color shifting allows you to take one color of light, and turn it into another. To do this, you take two polarized filters at 90 degrees (such that they block most light coming through them), and simply add a third filter. The third filter shifts the frequency of light that makes it through the first 2 filterz. You can then check for color shifting in time with the 3rd filter or check for specific color of light keyed to your receiver/emitter combo.
I have been searching for basically this for so long , all my RUclips searches got me no where , only showing me overly simplified, uninformative videos ,the when I'm not looking a day later it recommends me the perfect video when I'm watching a laptop review
This episode was especially funny because of your comments about your wife's reactions :) I enjoyed it a lot! .. btw: now I'm building a "longer range" laser beam detector to detect human body movement inside a house with the capability to distinguish direction (2 close beams) and frequency carrier is a great help against various ambient light disruptions. Thanks for another good episode, Andreas.
Martin Winkelhofer Did you use the IR TX and TSOP RX? What was the max range between them? Are you still using it? Please, send me some details of this project Kelvyn.sousa@gmail.com
About the IR-mode for the serial port at 15:00 IRDA is a protocol stack for IR data transfer, similar to bluetooth, but older. This probably switches the serial port into a mode compatible with IRDA lower protocol layers. For starters, have a look at the Wikipedia article.
And winner of my first comment on youtube is ANDREAS SPIESS the guy with the swiss accent... thank you for all your great videos! A few weeks ago I bought during a flashdeal on aliexpress a cheap esp-01 with a relay and ended here on your channel... 30 Years ago when I was building my first cnc router it was really complicated to get all the knowledge together and today we just google... BTW I remember in one of your videos… problems with a 3D printer....maybe Iˋm the man... we are almost neighbours.
Maybe you send me a short note on FB or Twitter if you live close by. Concerning the 3D printer, I got the good news that my new Prusa should arrive before Christmas...
Sir, thank you dearly for all your tutorials. I am new to ESP32 and have gained so much watching. I was needing to move IR receive to core 0 to get the update rate I needed. Would never have made it without your dual core video and your updated IR library. Thank you so much!
@@AndreasSpiess Sir, I hope you would provide some additional guidance. I am having trouble getting a send. I have reviewed your git hub files and responses below. I just cant identify what output pin you are using for irsend? Is this GPIO3? There are several boards as you know. I bought an Adafruit HUZZAH 32 not a dev board. My mistake. The Adafruit board does not have GPIO3 wired out. Scouring through the library I can find the command identifying output pin assignments. Thank you for any assistance.
@@AndreasSpiess Sir, thank you again for all your wonderful vids. I am sorry I bothered you, however, I did find the command. Opening up IRremote.h in Visual Studio made it easier to locate the line is 262 - byte timerPwmPin=15. I changed the value from 3 to 15. 15 is another PWM pin on the ESP32. Once again, thank you. I really love this little chip.
Sir, like you I like to keep a happy wife. This IRsend was the final piece in an automated TV volume level mod I have been making. My wife hates the volume changing when commercials come on. I have made a hack for her using a mic input to a PID loop with time proportional output. I use the IR remote to change the setpoint of the PID. Then I average the mic input to get a smooth sound level reference. The PID adjusts the TV volume based on the setpoint, lowering the volume when commercials come on, or when she yells at me. If you raise or lower the setpoint the volume tracks with it. She is very Happy. Couldn't have done it without your vids.
Fantastic explanation and well organized.Im working on a custom remote for my mom who is very old and is getting confused with the overcomplicated remotes. Ill just have on off and a few favorite channels on big buttons. Your resources here and explanation willhelp me save time.
the best video I found on the youtube!!This is exactly what I needed! And you explain everything perfectly!! It proves also my theory that chanells with moderate number of views and without stupid addverts etc. are the best ones! Like yours!
I love your videos Sir. I am looking to make a simple ir blaster to turn on and off a TV and stumbled upon yet another great video from the guy with the Swiss accent. Thanks for the info.
@@AndreasSpiess Now that is tooooooo bad! Hope you had a plan B or even plan C! But nice to hear from you! I don't trust some of these "??? countries" where you can disappear and nobody does anything about it! It's safer here or in our country and most Europe also, but going to some parts of the world isn't for me.
Swiss humour at its best! And the same for the videos! Being more or less in the same age bracket, I can't realize how you or Pete Scargill can: buy the things, test them, make developments, write and modify libraries, shot videos, edit them, mantain a blog, mantain a marriage, answer the comments, eat, sleep? , and you are not even retired like the other great bald in Scotland/Spain.
I love this tech and find it very useful and try to use it all the time. However, for a simple cabinet door I would glue a magnet to the door and mount a reed switch under the shelf. Or you could mount the sensor at an angle so it can't see the remote. Or if the white cabinet makes that impossible just use a photo resistor since a closed cabinet is dark inside.
I went through your proposals, one after the other. For the reed switch, the distance was too far (without seeing the sensor when the door is open). The LDR did not work because in spring and autumn when the sun shines flat, enough light came in to switch the TV on and if the lights were low during the TV sessions it switched off. The video was already long so I did not mention these experiments...
I have used both reed switches and LDR for closet and cabinet lighting to good effect. On one closet I mounted a magnet on a post on the hinge side of the door to reach under the shelf and find the reed sw. I have used the reflective sensors for part position and control on automated assembly machinery where magnetic and micro switches could not be used. Also as timing devices where I find hall effect units can be fooled by dirt and metal chips. If your TV cabinet door is manually operated it seems you have found the best solution. Maybe if I watch enough of your videos I will be able to think outside the TV box, too.
Again an interesting video from Andreas !! I also am thinking about putting ESP's with IR send and receive (and perhaps also a buzzer and some other sensors) in my house. However if you have several of this IR home automaton interfaces near each other send IR only from one! The devices will receive signals from each other and the logic can become confusing. There are also much devices who use a IR power toggle code. This requires the home automation system to maintain information about the current state. Or you need to add other sensors (e.g. the power consumption) to check if the device is on or off.
1. As I mention in the video: You have to use an addressing scheme if you want to have several senders. Then, Node-Red can send an MQTT message to each of your senders, one after the other. Or the address is the delay each sender has to wait if it gets the MQTT message till it sends the IR signal... 2. Toggle codes suck. I do not like them at all because of the problems you describe.
Andrea’s I saw your video again, now by Dec/2022. The contents you present are already great, and adding your Swiss sense of humor is just a bonus for us.😊 At the original time, 5 years ago, ESP32 didn’t have code library for IR. By now, it may have and ATTiny85s or ArduinoPro mini could be the smallest versions to try IR coding experiments - not only in size, but also in Power Consumption. About my current project: In doing a DIY ‘project’ to control my Carrier/Midea’s split AC using a tiny and lower cost device as Arduino Pro Mini. Those AC devices use remote coded as “RG52B/BGCE” sending the full parameter set in a longer and more complex burst of IR codes. I have some doubts and don’t know if you could provide any guidance or comment: (1) Have you done (or heard someone) doing this long/complete IR coding for AC by the parameters themselves - instead of just recording hundreds of different combinatorial/configurations? Any guidance about this matter? (2) Developing some ‘smarter’ algorithms to read & learn the T&H sensor response and adjust the AC for better ‘Herman comfort’ - not just the dumb temperature control. Any references or similar cases are greatly appreciated. Thanks and Have a Great Christmas!
@@AndreasSpiess, curious piece of information that made me do a quick search. I live in Rio de Janeiro (Brazil) where cooling AC is more than welcome for our hot days’ troubles. It is a good guess that you live in Swiss, where diagonally you all could face cold days issues for several months/year. Options as burning wood/oil/gas fireplace are non-electric, sure. But the thermal machine known as “AC in heating mode” pumps more heat (BTU/Watt) than just resistive heaters do, which would compensate its cost and other disadvantages in the long run - except when electric energy and oil prices are skyrocketing.
Another excellent vid, Andreas! Why not just use the uC's registers and masks directly rather than use the burdensome and low-performance arduino ide functions for generating the proper signal frequencies and duty rates? Almost any frequency generation is possible within very little cycle difference (error), which would not be an issue. Directly accessing the registers is not dangerous nor is it complicated when compared to the much improved abilities they give the uC. I do get it.... most ATmega 328p users are stuck forever in arduino-land, and you don't mind catering to the bigger crowd. I would think that most people would rather learn a bit more and really see what is happening and be able to do much more, without the arduino-blanket blocking their vision. The arduino ide still allows the use of all the registers, fuses, masks, and proper C and C++ instructions, etc, so if a person can't find the will to learn the basics of Atmel Studio in a few hour's time, they can still use the antiquated and pain-in-the-arse Arduino-ide without using the arduino's goofy, burdensome, canned functions. I suggest anyone reading this, and still using only the arduino ide, to go and download the Atmel Studio 7 and try it out before you let others convince you that it is too cumbersome and complex for you to understand and use to great advantage... AS-7 is so powerful and easy to use! And it provides so many more features to help you work faster and smarter. You don't have to learn all of it right away... in fact you most likely can't. It's a big place. But after using it for a while you will not want to go back to the toy-like arduino ide. Yes, the arduino ide has it's place, it's super simple, etc. But it's terribly lacking. Don't be ruffled by this comment. Just try it out. I double-dog dare ya. :)
1. I did assembler programming and other low-level stuff like that when I was young and like it that the computer took over this work for me (I still do it if absolutely necessary). 2. Arduino IDE is the standard in the maker scene, also because it can be used to program other MCUs like the ESP8266 or ESP32. An I go with a proverb from here: The fish has to like the worm, not the fisherman ;-) 3. Maybe you convinced some guys to try another IDE like Atmel Studio, or also Eclipse with your comment!
You are right when told: - it's not easy program Arduino to have 38 KHz - But I'm been more lucky than clever and after to have read much articles about the Timers/Counters inside Arduino I have reach a good result with these few rows (on Arduino Nano): define pwmPin 11 // IR Carrier 38 KHz PWM const long IR_CLOCK_RATE = 38000L; // IR Carrier 38 KHz PWM void setup() { TCCR2A = _BV(WGM21) | _BV(COM2A0); // PWM setup TCCR2B = _BV(CS20); // PWM setup - 38kHz carrier/timer OCR2A = (F_CPU/(IR_CLOCK_RATE*2L)-1); // PWM setup pinMode (pwmPin, OUTPUT); // PWM setup } // end setup void loop() { } // end loop My acknowledgements to - Hao Jiang - Ken Shirriff - Leonard Birchall -
Your videos are amazing! It seems like every idea I have for a project I first check your channel and almost always can learn what I need from you. Are you saying your ESP32 IRremote github branch IRrecord sketch works with the esp32? If so, which pin do you use for the IR LED?
Hi @Andreas Spiess, re-watching your videos an idea came in mind, but could not be sure about a thing and wanted to contact you. You're declaring that it's possible to prevent day light from tricking IR receivers. I'm thinking about creating a robotic pan tilt mechanism, which follows only an IR emitter. I mean if not please suggest me some technology. I'm fed up with my motorcycle mirrors change their angles because of the wind. And as I go faster I need to bend my head in order to resist the wind and supply some aerodynamics. This results with the fact of losing my mirror vision. I'm now searching for a technology which will let me to 3d print a pan tilt mechanism to arrange my circle shaped mirrors angle relatively to my heads movement. I do not want to lose my vision in any case. Could IR be this technology? Could you advise me?
Thank you Andreas and Mrs Andreas! Could we please have Mrs Spiess as a regular beta tester! She will help you add the real world wife acceptance factor (WAF) in future performance and cost spreadsheets. Joking aside this was a great video in your usual great style but I have a question please. How do you or other manufacturers ensure that their codes are unique so that they don't do something bad for instance switch on the heating (company 1) AND open all the windows (company 2) from a single IR transmission?
WAF :-)) I did not dig into the IR codes itself because I still had the remote to copy the code. So I do not know if there is any standard body like in Ethernet. I do not think so, but maybe somebody else knows.
Your humor for the dear woman in your life is funny. I am certain your being a innovative electrical engineer goes over into other parts of your relationship. Curious as to how much range infrared can travel? On approaching a gateway to a secured field a tractor or truck would automatically open from a distance of fifty meters. I would not want to have gate then left open but close in a short time with an override to keep it open should it be needed. Reliable and trustworthy are key elements for the not geek squad. Thank you.
For an old software guy, who is enjoying his retirement hours fiddling with microcontrollers, these videos are a Godsend. Thank you! Quick question: I notice that you often wear fabric gloves when handling components. Is this to reduce static buildup? Keep the components clean? Keep your fingers clean? All of the above?
After a few months of trying! Finally Eureka! I have increased the range like 1000 % !!! Hahahah! It was so easyyy though. Just the receiver doesn't like the long pulses and I have read the datasheet again. Now it works like Philips remote control :D with my own signal pattern.
@@AndreasSpiess Thank you :) It is already installed on my vehicule prototype :) Time will come also for RF inventions (but as it is much more complicated a little bit later).
Wonderful video as usual! Now, I am not entirely sure about photodiodes always being black, and IR emitters always being transparent. I recall having several IR diodes that did not follow this "convention" and I specifically remember using a CMOS camera (normally a phone or a PocketPC) to find which ones were emitters. Receivers were tested later in the same way you tested them on breadboard, to make sure they were receivers indeed, and not just bad IR LEDs.
Oooops! wrong link, sorry! These are the one I meant goo.gl/WrPSRS. They are not as black as the receivers though (although in real life they look darker as in the pic).
Those look like the everlight ones adafruit sells described as blue transparent. The receivers I've seen look black almost totally opaque. No idea why they tint the emitters. Narrow up the pass band, vis ID..?
Belgium-Malmedy, 2Dec2019 -- Very clear and fine presentation. I will check your other videos on that IR or Com Subject. Tks as it will be usefull for setting up an application of mine...that i hopefully can fix in Center of our Capital. Best Regards AbM3n.
Interesting AD, so if you were to put a piece of paper or object close in the path of the coded IR beam (similar to the smoke) this would cause the coded IR beam to be reflected back to the photo electric smoke detector? So I imagine in close proximity a coded IR beam could detect objects that would not have to have the receiver and transmitter opposite each other like Andreas TV cabinet. Do you know how far reliable IR reflective sensing works in an outdoor environment? Thank you for your earlier comment and consideration of my questions.
That is correct, hands free faucets too. Distance proportional to emitter power and reflectivity of obstacles. These uses are close less then a foot. Breaking beams can go 100s of feet.
What is the IR code for your wife? If you could determine it, you can construct a remote controller. Even three buttons would help much: On, Off and Mute. ;-)
Great information especially the info about the esp32. FYI you could have saved your marriage sooner if you used a TOF detector for distance or HC-SR04, If you did then you would not have as good a story. Keep up the good work
The easiest way would have been to throw the tv out of the house. Another easy way would have been to use a mechanical switch, reed contact or something like that. But your effort taking video was great ;-)
1. Maybe with the TV my wife would also go ;-) 2. As I wrote in another comment. I tried the LDR and the reed switch but was not successful in my particular situation I also wanted to use this example to show how to deal with some issues of the IR technology.
Just thumbs up for this video Andreas! .. Still trying to reverse engineer the 'my-wife' application - whenever I think I found a coincidence that could help me to predict and influence further behavior - I have to find out pretty soon that I did not use the correct codes - my theorie is that the target uses lot's of self-modifying code .. ;:-)
This is always an excuse if we did not yet find the right rules ;-) Ich sage meinen Kunden immer, dass die teuerste Regel "Es kommt drauf an" ist. Sie kann kaum automatisiert werden und die Leute, die es für deren Anwendung braucht, sind auch nicht billig...
Andreas Spiess The IR option is on the M-Firmware Fork version. If you download the project SVN repo (linux) or download the tarball directly, you will have a copy of both firmwares. Once the main archive is unpacked navigate: Transistor Tester>Software>Markus>ComponentTester1.30M.tgz If you unpack that (it's the most recent) file, Markus has info in the readme file. www.mikrocontroller.net/svnbrowser/transistortester/ Project HQ is www.mikrocontroller.net/articles/AVR_Transistortester
Actually you could use the IR-diode that is used for emitting light as a light receiver. Diodes are always light sensitive, instead of just emitting light, they can also be used to detect light. Only the sensibility is not very good. But that migth work for your example already, since the distance from the tv door to the LED installation is so little. Give it a try with just some diode, it also works with other colors, like green, yellow, red, etc. LEDs. They all have some small voltage between anode and cathode, as soon as light hits them. [edit] By the way, just to amuse your wife, how about a little magnet attached to the tv door and a hall sensor to detect that in position, when the door is closed? [another edit] Got it, your wife is already amused... :)
Using the same LED for transmitting and receiving would probably not work as the speed of light is pretty fast. Using a hall sensor would also have been a possibility.
perhaps a ultrasonic sonic sensor like those HC-SR04 will be better for the TV door project, its awfully easy to program it to detect in a specific distance and no worries on the ambient lighting issues.
Hi Andreas, I have 4 sets of IR transmitters & receivers on my vacuum robot out of which 2 transmitters have gone bad (2 of them are not emitting the light when I watched the video recording as the light was not visible to bare eyes, the other 2 can be seen glowing once in a while in the video recording). How to determine if the IR transmitter has gone bad or if there is something wrong on the mother board. If I want to replace only the IR transmitters, how to find out what specification transmitters are used on the device originally. Thanks in advance for your help. I could share photos or videos, but I guess I cannot do that here.
I have no idea to find a replacement :-( To find out if the transmitters work, I would measure if they get a signal (with an oscilloscope). If they get a signal and do not emit IR, the error most probably is with the diode. Otherwise probably on the mainboard. Be sure they are emitters and not receivers.
Another excellent video! Out of interest, as you seem to fix a lot of libraries, do you tend to send pull requests back to the original repository with the fix? I often want to use a thing you've fixed but don't know if the original repository (which quite often has moved forward since your video) includes your fixes.
I think for definitve it would be nice if you explored how fast you can exchange real data. Explore speed vs distance of ir pair as well as different times of day. Try to see how far you can exchange a file perhaps and write this file to sd card.
To transfer real data you should implement a proper protocol to manage transmission errors, and at this point the speed will also depend on the protocol. You can have a look at HDLC, a protocol used for point-to-point connections beetween computers.
Andreas an excellent video and well researched. Incredible quick turnaround on bringing something insightful and new to video. Did you determine the range of an IR beam transmits reliably to a receiver and did you discover what the maximum reliable distance for reflective transmission was, ie like the TV cabinet setup? I'm considering external passive IR with fresnel lense as they are low power, but your video has given me a few other ideas. Again, brilliant work :)
I think this is more an optical question and I do not know a lot about lenses. In my lab, the IR detector chips were very sensitive. I do not know how they would work on the outside with bright sun. I assume, they would go into saturation quickly and would no more able to detect the small signals of an LED.
You have a great way of explaining things. I have IR control for TV and camera from ESP32. However I would to move from the Arduino IDE to the ESP-IDF as I want to use FreeRTOS.Any hints on the best way to use the IR code in the Arduino framework to ESP-IDF. Thanks again.
@Andreas did you have to do anything to get decent range from your emitters? I've read most emitters in Remotes are "over driven", but I'm not to sure if that can be done with only 3.3V coming from an ESP*
This video was not about the distance, it was more about the logic to drive the LEDs. These microcontrollers only supply very little current ( a few mA) and if you want max power you have to add transistors to amplify the signals. I also do not know of high power IR diodes, but I never searched for them.
Andreas Spiess about logic not about distance is fair enough... folks testing IR may think (as I did when first trying IR stuff) that the emitters are not reproducing codes correctly when in fact they are only effective inside about 30 cm driven by 3.3V ESP* pins, also looking with a phone camera is a good way to verify the emitters are doing something. :)
You are right. My setup worked over a distance of about one meter (from my ESP to the LED lamp above the bench. But it heavily depends on the quality of the receiver.
Hello Andreas, I've been thinking about if it's possible to add some kind of conduit as a repeater to send IR signals (say something like the way optic fibers work)
Hi - I just discovered this video. Fabulous! And you touch upon EXACTLY a little project I want to attempt myself; a CW keyer with an infrared link to the radio transceiver. The Is there much more circuitry required to turn the 'hi/lo' from the IR receiver into something that will key the rig? Any pointers much appreciated. *****It's the next day, and I only just realised that if I want to put the IR link between the paddle and the keyer (or rig with built-in keyer) I need TWO IR links; one for dits and one for dahs. So as well as, say, the 'standard' 38kHz link, do I need to choose the other link's frequency as far from 38kHz as possible or can I use any other freq than 38kHz? Thanks
You could code the IR signal (one code for the left and another code for the right paddle. You get IR receivers for other frequencies. But I do not know how sharp their filters are.
Dear Andres thank you for the comprehensive explanations. I am trying to use the IRSendDemo with ESP32 (WROOM-32 1313) and not sure how to interpret the comment " An IR LED must be connected to Arduino PWM pin 3", pin 3 is RX0 in this board pinout. Should it be TX0 (sadly not working), what is the proper pin to connect in order to send IR codes using your examples (or the ESP32 Compatible examples from your github) ? Thanks.
I've been following you for many years. You never failed to deliver unique content. In my case, it works well with esp32. But when it comes to nodemcu, i have some issues with ir remote library. Getting errors regarding rawcodes since i tried almost all the ir remote library versions for node mcu. Can you suggest me stable version? PS: I like your humor
Very interesting ! I was just thinking on how to add it sending capabilities to a sonoff th10 or 16 in order to power control and send ir commands to some hifi équipement:-)
Very well explained! Thank you so much! Have you uploaded the code for your own code what you are talking about at 13:50 made on attiny85? If yes please let me know, im working on project where im facing same issue with other remote interfarrence
But after you decode the IR codes of the remote controller you want to copy, you also need to choose a specific IR send method (manufactory dependent) to send out the codes. Correct?
The Arduino runs at 16MHz, it should be capable of creating a 38 kHz pwm... The weak points could be the poorly written libraries. You could in theory set up a timer and achieve frequencies up to 8 MHz... Thought I think you need to code in assembly for that
One of those rare useful (very useful) content on RUclips. Thank you sir
You are welcome!
Good to hear our vblogger sharing his lifetime wisdom of having a happy & long lasting marriage.
:-))
less than 24 hours and I'm back on this channel again. I just discovered videos of people reversing their remote's using a logic analyzer. So first stop here is learning this and and back on my old standby channel. Andreas really is a treasure to this community.
Thank you for your kind words!
I enjoyed this quiet a bit. Very cool.
Since we're talking light, there is a method for discriminating different light sources that you might find helpful:
All light can be polarized. Most people are familiar with polarized light be blocked by orthagonal filters, but, what they forget, is that there's a third level of polarization.
That third level is 'color shifting'.
Color shifting allows you to take one color of light, and turn it into another.
To do this, you take two polarized filters at 90 degrees (such that they block most light coming through them), and simply add a third filter.
The third filter shifts the frequency of light that makes it through the first 2 filterz.
You can then check for color shifting in time with the 3rd filter or check for specific color of light keyed to your receiver/emitter combo.
Interesting! Never heard of this effect!
I found your channel via a comment you left at EEVblog and I'm glad I did. You have a new subscriber.
Welcome to the channel!
I have been searching for basically this for so long , all my RUclips searches got me no where , only showing me overly simplified, uninformative videos ,the when I'm not looking a day later it recommends me the perfect video when I'm watching a laptop review
Glad you found it!
This episode was especially funny because of your comments about your wife's reactions :) I enjoyed it a lot! .. btw: now I'm building a "longer range" laser beam detector to detect human body movement inside a house with the capability to distinguish direction (2 close beams) and frequency carrier is a great help against various ambient light disruptions. Thanks for another good episode, Andreas.
Good luck with your lasers! If I remember I saw this technology in some action films. But they had more than two lasers there.
Martin Winkelhofer
Did you use the IR TX and TSOP RX?
What was the max range between them?
Are you still using it?
Please, send me some details of this project
Kelvyn.sousa@gmail.com
About the IR-mode for the serial port at 15:00 IRDA is a protocol stack for IR data transfer, similar to bluetooth, but older. This probably switches the serial port into a mode compatible with IRDA lower protocol layers. For starters, have a look at the Wikipedia article.
I think so, too, but did not have the time to explore. And I also needed the higher (protocol layers)
So logically exposing the history of the IR technique development!
:-)
And winner of my first comment on youtube is ANDREAS SPIESS the guy with the swiss accent... thank you for all your great videos!
A few weeks ago I bought during a flashdeal on aliexpress a cheap esp-01 with a relay and ended here on your channel...
30 Years ago when I was building my first cnc router it was really complicated to get all the knowledge together and today we just google...
BTW I remember in one of your videos… problems with a 3D printer....maybe Iˋm the man... we are almost neighbours.
Maybe you send me a short note on FB or Twitter if you live close by. Concerning the 3D printer, I got the good news that my new Prusa should arrive before Christmas...
Andreas Spiess ...I have no FB or twitter, check your mail @aru....
Sir, thank you dearly for all your tutorials. I am new to ESP32 and have gained so much watching. I was needing to move IR receive to core 0 to get the update rate I needed. Would never have made it without your dual core video and your updated IR library. Thank you so much!
You are welcome!
@@AndreasSpiess Sir, I hope you would provide some additional guidance. I am having trouble getting a send. I have reviewed your git hub files and responses below. I just cant identify what output pin you are using for irsend? Is this GPIO3? There are several boards as you know. I bought an Adafruit HUZZAH 32 not a dev board. My mistake. The Adafruit board does not have GPIO3 wired out. Scouring through the library I can find the command identifying output pin assignments. Thank you for any assistance.
@@AndreasSpiess Sir, thank you again for all your wonderful vids. I am sorry I bothered you, however, I did find the command. Opening up IRremote.h in Visual Studio made it easier to locate the line is 262 - byte timerPwmPin=15. I changed the value from 3 to 15. 15 is another PWM pin on the ESP32. Once again, thank you. I really love this little chip.
Sir, like you I like to keep a happy wife. This IRsend was the final piece in an automated TV volume level mod I have been making. My wife hates the volume changing when commercials come on. I have made a hack for her using a mic input to a PID loop with time proportional output. I use the IR remote to change the setpoint of the PID. Then I average the mic input to get a smooth sound level reference. The PID adjusts the TV volume based on the setpoint, lowering the volume when commercials come on, or when she yells at me. If you raise or lower the setpoint the volume tracks with it. She is very Happy. Couldn't have done it without your vids.
I love searching YT and seeing you in the results, I know ima get all the answers to questions I did think of, and didn't know to ask.
Indeed. I also use RUclips a lot for learning.
A very useful and wide sight for who start to explore the IR basics and the IR communications
Glad it was helpful!
huge thanks, i searched this for a school project and this video explains every detail
Glad it was helpful!
Fantastic explanation and well organized.Im working on a custom remote for my mom who is very old and is getting confused with the overcomplicated remotes. Ill just have on off and a few favorite channels on big buttons. Your resources here and explanation willhelp me save time.
Cool! I am sure she will be proud of her son.
the best video I found on the youtube!!This is exactly what I needed! And you explain everything perfectly!! It proves also my theory that chanells with moderate number of views and without stupid addverts etc. are the best ones! Like yours!
Thank you!
9:00 I'm surprised the strongest word she used was "nerds"
Yet another amazing video! Interesting project, well organized and explained.
Thank you!
I love your videos Sir. I am looking to make a simple ir blaster to turn on and off a TV and stumbled upon yet another great video from the guy with the Swiss accent. Thanks for the info.
You are welcome!
Hope you had a great trip! But today I'm playing with IR and your video was very helpful again! Thank you Andreas!!! Have a great week!
Unfortunately, the Pamir trip was cancelled because it was right at the border to Afghanistan. So Joe Biden was a little too fast for me :-(
@@AndreasSpiess Now that is tooooooo bad! Hope you had a plan B or even plan C! But nice to hear from you! I don't trust some of these "??? countries" where you can disappear and nobody does anything about it! It's safer here or in our country and most Europe also, but going to some parts of the world isn't for me.
My wife and me will do a bicycle trip...
Thanks for the educational video.
You are welcome!
Swiss humour at its best! And the same for the videos!
Being more or less in the same age bracket, I can't realize how you or Pete Scargill can: buy the things, test them, make developments, write and modify libraries, shot videos, edit them, mantain a blog, mantain a marriage, answer the comments, eat, sleep? , and you are not even retired like the other great bald in Scotland/Spain.
Here our day has 24h. And if not sufficient, we have to work during nights ;-)
Wow, what a nice lesson) I haven't seen such for a long time) I love how you do it)
Thank you!
Thanks for your videos Andreas. I enjoy so much watching them
You are welcome!
Amazing! I wanted to do this for a while, but I lacked the material and/or the time to test it
Great video!
Thank you!
Amazing video Andreas, well done
Thank you!
I love this tech and find it very useful and try to use it all the time. However, for a simple cabinet door I would glue a magnet to the door and mount a reed switch under the shelf. Or you could mount the sensor at an angle so it can't see the remote. Or if the white cabinet makes that impossible just use a photo resistor since a closed cabinet is dark inside.
I went through your proposals, one after the other. For the reed switch, the distance was too far (without seeing the sensor when the door is open). The LDR did not work because in spring and autumn when the sun shines flat, enough light came in to switch the TV on and if the lights were low during the TV sessions it switched off. The video was already long so I did not mention these experiments...
I have used both reed switches and LDR for closet and cabinet lighting to good effect. On one closet I mounted a magnet on a post on the hinge side of the door to reach under the shelf and find the reed sw. I have used the reflective sensors for part position and control on automated assembly machinery where magnetic and micro switches could not be used. Also as timing devices where I find hall effect units can be fooled by dirt and metal chips. If your TV cabinet door is manually operated it seems you have found the best solution. Maybe if I watch enough of your videos I will be able to think outside the TV box, too.
:-) Yes, the door is moved by hand.
Happy wife, happy life ;o)
You are so right!
Nerd
@@aymanfarouk7226 friendly fire
Again an interesting video from Andreas !!
I also am thinking about putting ESP's with IR send and receive (and perhaps also a buzzer and some other sensors) in my house. However if you have several of this IR home automaton interfaces near each other send IR only from one! The devices will receive signals from each other and the logic can become confusing.
There are also much devices who use a IR power toggle code. This requires the home automation system to maintain information about the current state. Or you need to add other sensors (e.g. the power consumption) to check if the device is on or off.
1. As I mention in the video: You have to use an addressing scheme if you want to have several senders. Then, Node-Red can send an MQTT message to each of your senders, one after the other. Or the address is the delay each sender has to wait if it gets the MQTT message till it sends the IR signal...
2. Toggle codes suck. I do not like them at all because of the problems you describe.
Great video, just what I needed to be able to switch off my TV etc via my Home Automation via MQTT
Thank you!
Liked for the information, subbed for the humor.
Welcome aboard the channel!
14:08 "Somebody please explain me women." XD
:-))
You are the best by far. Thank you!!
You are welcome!
Andrea’s I saw your video again, now by Dec/2022. The contents you present are already great, and adding your Swiss sense of humor is just a bonus for us.😊
At the original time, 5 years ago, ESP32 didn’t have code library for IR. By now, it may have and ATTiny85s or ArduinoPro mini could be the smallest versions to try IR coding experiments - not only in size, but also in Power Consumption.
About my current project:
In doing a DIY ‘project’ to control my Carrier/Midea’s split AC using a tiny and lower cost device as Arduino Pro Mini.
Those AC devices use remote coded as “RG52B/BGCE” sending the full parameter set in a longer and more complex burst of IR codes.
I have some doubts and don’t know if you could provide any guidance or comment:
(1) Have you done (or heard someone) doing this long/complete IR coding for AC by the parameters themselves - instead of just recording hundreds of different combinatorial/configurations? Any guidance about this matter?
(2) Developing some ‘smarter’ algorithms to read & learn the T&H sensor response and adjust the AC for better ‘Herman comfort’ - not just the dumb temperature control. Any references or similar cases are greatly appreciated.
Thanks and Have a Great Christmas!
I did not look into IR recently. Maybe you find a project which fulfills your needs (we have no AC here).
Merry Christmas to you, too!
@@AndreasSpiess, curious piece of information that made me do a quick search. I live in Rio de Janeiro (Brazil) where cooling AC is more than welcome for our hot days’ troubles. It is a good guess that you live in Swiss, where diagonally you all could face cold days issues for several months/year. Options as burning wood/oil/gas fireplace are non-electric, sure.
But the thermal machine known as “AC in heating mode” pumps more heat (BTU/Watt) than just resistive heaters do, which would compensate its cost and other disadvantages in the long run - except when electric energy and oil prices are skyrocketing.
Another excellent vid, Andreas!
Why not just use the uC's registers and masks directly rather than use the burdensome and low-performance arduino ide functions for generating the proper signal frequencies and duty rates? Almost any frequency generation is possible within very little cycle difference (error), which would not be an issue. Directly accessing the registers is not dangerous nor is it complicated when compared to the much improved abilities they give the uC.
I do get it.... most ATmega 328p users are stuck forever in arduino-land, and you don't mind catering to the bigger crowd. I would think that most people would rather learn a bit more and really see what is happening and be able to do much more, without the arduino-blanket blocking their vision. The arduino ide still allows the use of all the registers, fuses, masks, and proper C and C++ instructions, etc, so if a person can't find the will to learn the basics of Atmel Studio in a few hour's time, they can still use the antiquated and pain-in-the-arse Arduino-ide without using the arduino's goofy, burdensome, canned functions.
I suggest anyone reading this, and still using only the arduino ide, to go and download the Atmel Studio 7 and try it out before you let others convince you that it is too cumbersome and complex for you to understand and use to great advantage... AS-7 is so powerful and easy to use! And it provides so many more features to help you work faster and smarter. You don't have to learn all of it right away... in fact you most likely can't. It's a big place. But after using it for a while you will not want to go back to the toy-like arduino ide.
Yes, the arduino ide has it's place, it's super simple, etc. But it's terribly lacking. Don't be ruffled by this comment. Just try it out. I double-dog dare ya. :)
1. I did assembler programming and other low-level stuff like that when I was young and like it that the computer took over this work for me (I still do it if absolutely necessary).
2. Arduino IDE is the standard in the maker scene, also because it can be used to program other MCUs like the ESP8266 or ESP32. An I go with a proverb from here: The fish has to like the worm, not the fisherman ;-)
3. Maybe you convinced some guys to try another IDE like Atmel Studio, or also Eclipse with your comment!
Exactly the video I was looking for!
:-)
Thank you. Your videos are very useful and interesting.
Glad you like them!
You are right when told: - it's not easy program Arduino to have 38 KHz - But I'm been more lucky than clever and after to have read much articles about the Timers/Counters inside Arduino I have reach a good result with these few rows (on Arduino Nano):
define pwmPin 11 // IR Carrier 38 KHz PWM
const long IR_CLOCK_RATE = 38000L; // IR Carrier 38 KHz PWM
void setup()
{
TCCR2A = _BV(WGM21) | _BV(COM2A0); // PWM setup
TCCR2B = _BV(CS20); // PWM setup - 38kHz carrier/timer
OCR2A = (F_CPU/(IR_CLOCK_RATE*2L)-1); // PWM setup
pinMode (pwmPin, OUTPUT); // PWM setup
} // end setup
void loop()
{
} // end loop
My acknowledgements to - Hao Jiang - Ken Shirriff - Leonard Birchall -
Thanks for sharing!
Your videos are amazing! It seems like every idea I have for a project I first check your channel and almost always can learn what I need from you.
Are you saying your ESP32 IRremote github branch IRrecord sketch works with the esp32? If so, which pin do you use for the IR LED?
I do not remember the pin. But you see it in the sketch.
amazing tutorial - though still a lot of IR related questions
Google search is your friend ;-)
Fantastic. You totally own the "nerd" claim and I love the humour in this one.
:-)
Hi @Andreas Spiess, re-watching your videos an idea came in mind, but could not be sure about a thing and wanted to contact you. You're declaring that it's possible to prevent day light from tricking IR receivers. I'm thinking about creating a robotic pan tilt mechanism, which follows only an IR emitter. I mean if not please suggest me some technology. I'm fed up with my motorcycle mirrors change their angles because of the wind. And as I go faster I need to bend my head in order to resist the wind and supply some aerodynamics. This results with the fact of losing my mirror vision. I'm now searching for a technology which will let me to 3d print a pan tilt mechanism to arrange my circle shaped mirrors angle relatively to my heads movement. I do not want to lose my vision in any case. Could IR be this technology? Could you advise me?
Thank you Andreas and Mrs Andreas! Could we please have Mrs Spiess as a regular beta tester! She will help you add the real world wife acceptance factor (WAF) in future performance and cost spreadsheets. Joking aside this was a great video in your usual
great style but I have a question please. How do you or other manufacturers ensure that their codes are unique so that they don't do something bad for instance switch on the heating (company 1) AND open all the windows (company 2) from a single IR transmission?
WAF :-))
I did not dig into the IR codes itself because I still had the remote to copy the code. So I do not know if there is any standard body like in Ethernet. I do not think so, but maybe somebody else knows.
thank you!!!
I was thinking you were going to go for a good old microswitch... but at least the story had a happy ending :)
:-)
Your humor for the dear woman in your life is funny. I am certain your being a innovative electrical engineer goes over into other parts of your relationship.
Curious as to how much range infrared can travel? On approaching a gateway to a secured field a tractor or truck would automatically open from a distance of fifty meters. I would not want to have gate then left open but close in a short time with an override to keep it open should it be needed. Reliable and trustworthy are key elements for the not geek squad.
Thank you.
I would not use reflected IR for 50 meters. Some sort of RF might be better for that.
Super video ....Thank you Andreas
You are welcome!
As always a quality video :)
Thank you!
For an old software guy, who is enjoying his retirement hours fiddling with microcontrollers, these videos are a Godsend. Thank you!
Quick question: I notice that you often wear fabric gloves when handling components. Is this to reduce static buildup? Keep the components clean? Keep your fingers clean? All of the above?
Thank you for your nice words. The gloves only have a private reason, non-technical.
After a few months of trying! Finally Eureka! I have increased the range like 1000 % !!! Hahahah! It was so easyyy though. Just the receiver doesn't like the long pulses and I have read the datasheet again. Now it works like Philips remote control :D with my own signal pattern.
Cool. Congratulations!
@@AndreasSpiess Thank you :) It is already installed on my vehicule prototype :) Time will come also for RF inventions (but as it is much more complicated a little bit later).
brother that's a great work ♥
Thanks ✌️
Wonderful video as usual!
Now, I am not entirely sure about photodiodes always being black, and IR emitters always being transparent. I recall having several IR diodes that did not follow this "convention" and I specifically remember using a CMOS camera (normally a phone or a PocketPC) to find which ones were emitters. Receivers were tested later in the same way you tested them on breadboard, to make sure they were receivers indeed, and not just bad IR LEDs.
Thanks for your addition. I only had these on hand and it made sense to add a filter to the receiver, not to the sender...
Yes, quite a few LED diodes (emitters) are also black. e.g. I bought some of these a while back: goo.gl/s66mhX
+SierraLimaOscar Your link says "Receptor de INFRARROJOS Receptor" which I think means receiver? The pictures also show the word "receiver"
Oooops! wrong link, sorry!
These are the one I meant goo.gl/WrPSRS. They are not as black as the receivers though (although in real life they look darker as in the pic).
Those look like the everlight ones adafruit sells described as blue transparent. The receivers I've seen look black almost totally opaque. No idea why they tint the emitters. Narrow up the pass band, vis ID..?
Belgium-Malmedy, 2Dec2019 -- Very clear and fine presentation. I will check your other videos on that IR or Com Subject. Tks as it will be usefull for setting up an application of mine...that i hopefully can fix in Center of our Capital. Best Regards AbM3n.
I hope you will be successful!
wie ein schweizer uhrwerk .....
wieder sehr informativ - ich sage mal danke.
Das Uhrwerk ist aus dem Silikon Valley, nur der Inhalt is Schweizerisch ;-)
Photo electric smoke detectors work by the coded IR beam being reflected by smoke not broken causing alarm.
Interesting AD, so if you were to put a piece of paper or object close in the path of the coded IR beam (similar to the smoke) this would cause the coded IR beam to be reflected back to the photo electric smoke detector? So I imagine in close proximity a coded IR beam could detect objects that would not have to have the receiver and transmitter opposite each other like Andreas TV cabinet. Do you know how far reliable IR reflective sensing works in an outdoor environment? Thank you for your earlier comment and consideration of my questions.
Is it possible to measure the density of smoke? with ir
"Is it possible to measure the density of smoke?"
www.sharp-world.com/products/device-china/lineup/data/pdf/datasheet/gp2y1010au_appl_e.pdf
UFOhunter Yes, I know this sensor, but if it is constantly in the smoke, it will not clog?
That is correct, hands free faucets too. Distance proportional to emitter power and reflectivity of obstacles. These uses are close less then a foot. Breaking beams can go 100s of feet.
Nice video, entertaining and informative. 😀
Thanks!
Oh boy i was looking for this
Glad you found it!
This is so cool, thank you for sharing this video :)
You are welcome!
What is the IR code for your wife? If you could determine it, you can construct a remote controller. Even three buttons would help much: On, Off and Mute. ;-)
Mute :-)))
Andreas Spiess lol Andreas 🙏
I found codes, but they are useless. One was "GET ANGRY" and other triggered "GET REALLY ANGRY". :(
Maybe the controller and the device codes do not match ;-)
Not sure, but it seems to be a state machine with some weird transitions...
Great information especially the info about the esp32. FYI you could have saved your marriage sooner if you used a TOF detector for distance or HC-SR04, If you did then you would not have as good a story. Keep up the good work
Thanks for the tip!
great video thank you! maybe use a limit switch for the tv door
Also a good possibility.
finally no noise in hearphones !!! :-)
thank you
Thanks for your feedback. I did not change anything. Hopefully, it will stay like that...
The easiest way would have been to throw the tv out of the house. Another easy way would have been to use a mechanical switch, reed contact or something like that. But your effort taking video was great ;-)
1. Maybe with the TV my wife would also go ;-)
2. As I wrote in another comment. I tried the LDR and the reed switch but was not successful in my particular situation
I also wanted to use this example to show how to deal with some issues of the IR technology.
And you excellently demonstrated it ;-)
It was very helful. Thank you!
You are welcome!
this guy is killing me ,youre very funny
Great video!
Thank you!
Just thumbs up for this video Andreas! .. Still trying to reverse engineer the 'my-wife' application - whenever I think I found a coincidence that could help me to predict and influence further behavior - I have to find out pretty soon that I did not use the correct codes - my theorie is that the target uses lot's of self-modifying code .. ;:-)
This is always an excuse if we did not yet find the right rules ;-) Ich sage meinen Kunden immer, dass die teuerste Regel "Es kommt drauf an" ist. Sie kann kaum automatisiert werden und die Leute, die es für deren Anwendung braucht, sind auch nicht billig...
Great video!!
Thank you!
FYI if anyone has an OSHW AVR Transistor Tester, there is a project option to decode IR signals ;)
Thanks for the tip. Do you have a link?
Andreas Spiess
The IR option is on the M-Firmware Fork version. If you download the project SVN repo (linux) or download the tarball directly, you will have a copy of both firmwares. Once the main archive is unpacked navigate: Transistor Tester>Software>Markus>ComponentTester1.30M.tgz
If you unpack that (it's the most recent) file, Markus has info in the readme file.
www.mikrocontroller.net/svnbrowser/transistortester/
Project HQ is www.mikrocontroller.net/articles/AVR_Transistortester
This is a summary I created awhile back. This should be all project options encompassing both FW versions ;)
Absolute Minimum System
1.) 3× 680R resistors matched within 0.1%
2.) 3× 470k resistors matched within 0.1%
3.) 2× 100nF Capacitors (AVCC & AREF to GND)
4.) 1× 10k Resistor (Reset Pin)
5.) ATmega8/88/168/328
6.) Your Choice of LCD + Supporting HW
7.) 0.1% scientific laboratory grade power supply w/5.000 volt output
8.) Push Button
NOTES:
Internal 8MHz Oscillator
Internal Atmega IC Vref
M A I N O P T I O N S
4× Interface
Option 1 minimum/required
Push Button
Option 2
2× Push Buttons (Increase/Decrease)
Option 3
Rotary Encoder w/integrated push button
Option 4
[Touch Screen (M-firmware Only as of 9/2017)
3× External DC Supplied Vcc Power
Option 1
0.1% scientific laboratory grade precision power supply w/ 5.000 volt output
Option 2
5 Volt Regulator w/ better than 0.4% precision
Option 3
5 Volt Regulator + 0.1% Precision Voltage Reference IC
5× Battery Based Vcc Power
Option 1
On/Off Switch + Test Button(s)
Option 2
MCU Controlled Timed Shutoff w/ Supporting Hardware + Push Button
Battery Option A
9 Volt Battery + LDO 5 Volt Regulator w/ better than 0.4% precision
Battery Option B
9 Volt Battery + LDO 5 Volt Regulator + 0.1% Precision Voltage Reference
Battery Option C
3.7v Lithium Battery + Boost Converter + LDO 5 Volt Regulator + 0.1% Precision Voltage Reference
4× (+1) Oscillator
Option 1
Internal 8MHz
Option 2
External 8MHz Xtal
Option 3
External 16MHz Xtal
Option 4 (M-FW)
External 20MHz Xtal
Option 2-4A
Standard oscillator Capacitors (~20pF)
Option 2-4B
1× Standard oscillator Capacitor + 1× Trimmer Capacitor ~0-30pF (Requires Frequency Measurement Device w/ Precision Disciplined Reference Oscillator such as a Rubidium Osc or GPSDO)
13× LCD Variations
~HD44780 (16×2/Hitachi Character)
~ST7036 (Dog-M)
~PCF8812 (Nokia 3410)
~PCF8814 (Nokia 1100)
~PCD8544 (Nokia 3310/5110)
~SSD1306 (microscopic size-OLED)
~NT7108 (Graphic Mono)
~ST7565 (Graphic Mono)
~LCD2004 (20×4 Character)
~ST7735 (Graphic Color 🐌)
~ILI9341 (Graphic Color 🐌)
~ILI9342 (Graphic Color 🐌)
~ST7920 (Giant Graphic Mono)
15× Additional Auxiliary Features Options
~TVS Array
~Relay Circuit Protection
~Frequency Output
~Voltage Measurement (0.1-50 Volts)
~Zener Threshold Testing
~Infrared Remote Frequency ID
~Xtal Measurement (K-firmware)
~Optocouple IC Tester
~PWM LCD Backlight (LM339 based)
~UART Serial Communication
~Solenoid Tester
~Direct External Frequency Measurement
~High/Low Freq. Measure w/Buffer&Prescaler
~Self Calibration Capacitor Circuit
~Sampling ADC Relay+Capacitor (K-FW)
Unofficial/None Supported Auxiliary Features
~Bluetooth Serial Communication
~LC Meter Circuit (LM311)
~LC Meter Circuit (ATtiny3213)
~Xtal Test Circuit (PIC16F628A)
Its very useful and funny:) Thank you!
You are welcome!
Dude, you rock!
:-)
Greating from N8CA to HB9BLA !!
73 from my side!
great work uncle im sorry if you are not old as a uncle or grandfather
I am 64. You you decide ;-)
Actually you could use the IR-diode that is used for emitting light as a light receiver. Diodes are always light sensitive, instead of just emitting light, they can also be used to detect light. Only the sensibility is not very good. But that migth work for your example already, since the distance from the tv door to the LED installation is so little. Give it a try with just some diode, it also works with other colors, like green, yellow, red, etc. LEDs. They all have some small voltage between anode and cathode, as soon as light hits them.
[edit] By the way, just to amuse your wife, how about a little magnet attached to the tv door and a hall sensor to detect that in position, when the door is closed?
[another edit] Got it, your wife is already amused... :)
Using the same LED for transmitting and receiving would probably not work as the speed of light is pretty fast. Using a hall sensor would also have been a possibility.
@@AndreasSpiess Na, dann wünsche ich mal einen schönen Sonnatg in die ferne Schweiz und viel Spaß mit dem Hall-Sensor... :)
Thanks for the video, very advanced =)
You're welcome!
You save my day. Thanks.
You are welcome!
perhaps a ultrasonic sonic sensor like those HC-SR04 will be better for the TV door project, its awfully easy to program it to detect in a specific distance and no worries on the ambient lighting issues.
You are right, this is another possibility.
Yup like the sega pda and the casio watch you can use IR to text or send data
Cool!
Brilliant. Every helpful. Thank you.
You are welcome!
Hi Andreas, I have 4 sets of IR transmitters & receivers on my vacuum robot out of which 2 transmitters have gone bad (2 of them are not emitting the light when I watched the video recording as the light was not visible to bare eyes, the other 2 can be seen glowing once in a while in the video recording). How to determine if the IR transmitter has gone bad or if there is something wrong on the mother board. If I want to replace only the IR transmitters, how to find out what specification transmitters are used on the device originally. Thanks in advance for your help. I could share photos or videos, but I guess I cannot do that here.
I have no idea to find a replacement :-( To find out if the transmitters work, I would measure if they get a signal (with an oscilloscope). If they get a signal and do not emit IR, the error most probably is with the diode. Otherwise probably on the mainboard. Be sure they are emitters and not receivers.
very nice !
Thank you!
His wife : You are such a nerd!
His brain: Batch awarded "Nerd"
:-))
Another excellent video!
Out of interest, as you seem to fix a lot of libraries, do you tend to send pull requests back to the original repository with the fix?
I often want to use a thing you've fixed but don't know if the original repository (which quite often has moved forward since your video) includes your fixes.
So far I did not send it back. Maybe I will do it with this library.
Brilliant!!!
Thank you!
I think for definitve it would be nice if you explored how fast you can exchange real data. Explore speed vs distance of ir pair as well as different times of day. Try to see how far you can exchange a file perhaps and write this file to sd card.
You are right. I thought, most people use IR for the scenarios I mention and not to transfer real data.
To transfer real data you should implement a proper protocol to manage transmission errors, and at this point the speed will also depend on the protocol. You can have a look at HDLC, a protocol used for point-to-point connections beetween computers.
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
:-)
Andreas an excellent video and well researched. Incredible quick turnaround on bringing something insightful and new to video.
Did you determine the range of an IR beam transmits reliably to a receiver and did you discover what the maximum reliable distance for reflective transmission was, ie like the TV cabinet setup? I'm considering external passive IR with fresnel lense as they are low power, but your video has given me a few other ideas. Again, brilliant work :)
I think this is more an optical question and I do not know a lot about lenses. In my lab, the IR detector chips were very sensitive. I do not know how they would work on the outside with bright sun. I assume, they would go into saturation quickly and would no more able to detect the small signals of an LED.
Mmm, yes I expect the IR chips will be saturated by natural daylight IR and yes an optical issue. Thank you for your response.
i love you!! it's work perfectly
:-)
Did you try on nodemcu. cz i get an error
You have a great way of explaining things. I have IR control for TV and camera from ESP32. However I would to move from the Arduino IDE to the ESP-IDF as I want to use FreeRTOS.Any hints on the best way to use the IR code in the Arduino framework to ESP-IDF. Thanks again.
You can use RTOS also in the Arduino framework. I did a video about that.
Any videos in the works for building a bigger longer distance IR array? Maybe a water tight enclosure to be mounted on the front of a vehicle?
So far I have no plans for that. But you never know ;-)
@Andreas did you have to do anything to get decent range from your emitters? I've read most emitters in Remotes are "over driven", but I'm not to sure if that can be done with only 3.3V coming from an ESP*
This video was not about the distance, it was more about the logic to drive the LEDs. These microcontrollers only supply very little current ( a few mA) and if you want max power you have to add transistors to amplify the signals. I also do not know of high power IR diodes, but I never searched for them.
Andreas Spiess about logic not about distance is fair enough... folks testing IR may think (as I did when first trying IR stuff) that the emitters are not reproducing codes correctly when in fact they are only effective inside about 30 cm driven by 3.3V ESP* pins, also looking with a phone camera is a good way to verify the emitters are doing something. :)
You are right. My setup worked over a distance of about one meter (from my ESP to the LED lamp above the bench. But it heavily depends on the quality of the receiver.
Hello Andreas, I've been thinking about if it's possible to add some kind of conduit as a repeater to send IR signals (say something like the way optic fibers work)
I am not sure if it works with normal IR. Usually, they use laser diodes which is a different light source.
Hallo Herr Spiess. Vielen Dank für die sehr gelungenen Tutorials. Wäre es denkbar ein Video über das Auslesen von 2.4 GHz Fernbedienungen zu machen?
Die sind rar und deshalb würde ein solches Video nicht geschaut :-(
Okay. Ich habe hier schon zwei Stück liegen :). Danke dennoch für die Antwort und mach weiter so. 👍🏼
Hi - I just discovered this video. Fabulous! And you touch upon EXACTLY a little project I want to attempt myself; a CW keyer with an infrared link to the radio transceiver. The Is there much more circuitry required to turn the 'hi/lo' from the IR receiver into something that will key the rig? Any pointers much appreciated. *****It's the next day, and I only just realised that if I want to put the IR link between the paddle and the keyer (or rig with built-in keyer) I need TWO IR links; one for dits and one for dahs. So as well as, say, the 'standard' 38kHz link, do I need to choose the other link's frequency as far from 38kHz as possible or can I use any other freq than 38kHz? Thanks
You could code the IR signal (one code for the left and another code for the right paddle. You get IR receivers for other frequencies. But I do not know how sharp their filters are.
Dear Andres thank you for the comprehensive explanations.
I am trying to use the IRSendDemo with ESP32 (WROOM-32 1313) and not sure how to interpret the comment
" An IR LED must be connected to Arduino PWM pin 3", pin 3 is RX0 in this board pinout.
Should it be TX0 (sadly not working), what is the proper pin to connect in order to send IR codes using your
examples (or the ESP32 Compatible examples from your github) ?
Thanks.
In the sketch the pins are defined as follows: int RECV_PIN = 14;int SEND_PIN = 5; No pin 3
I've been following you for many years. You never failed to deliver unique content. In my case, it works well with esp32. But when it comes to nodemcu, i have some issues with ir remote library. Getting errors regarding rawcodes since i tried almost all the ir remote library versions for node mcu. Can you suggest me stable version?
PS: I like your humor
I did not do anything with IR since then. So I do not know a library. And AFAIK they updated the ESP32 lib lately
@@AndreasSpiess somehow i managed to compile and run successfully.
Very interesting ! I was just thinking on how to add it sending capabilities to a sonoff th10 or 16 in order to power control and send ir commands to some hifi équipement:-)
:-)
Very well explained! Thank you so much! Have you uploaded the code for your own code what you are talking about at 13:50 made on attiny85? If yes please let me know, im working on project where im facing same issue with other remote interfarrence
I do not think so. However it was very simple. Just create a few 1 and 0 and check if the receiver gets the same sequence.
But after you decode the IR codes of the remote controller you want to copy, you also need to choose a specific IR send method (manufactory dependent) to send out the codes.
Correct?
Yes
The Arduino runs at 16MHz, it should be capable of creating a 38 kHz pwm... The weak points could be the poorly written libraries. You could in theory set up a timer and achieve frequencies up to 8 MHz... Thought I think you need to code in assembly for that
Awesome