Well done. Thank you. Super clear voice and explanations. Even for people that are familiar, I find your work flow quite good and found myself questioning my older methods. Keep going! Cheers :)
Many thanks! I definitely have had my fair share of printer struggles (still do!) but figure that if I can help others avoid them altogether, I will continue to take on the challenge of making videos so that printing can be as enjoyable as I know it to be for the rest of the community. I appreciate your feedback! It certainly means a lot to know that the guide is still worth a watch even after using OrcaSlicer for a period of time.
Super insightful, how much filament did it use for all calibration in total? Seems like a lot, but I'm sure it's more for print farm reliability rather than single use/color spools.
@Longfu2000 For all of the tests combined, it used 93g. Well worth it if it means that the rest of the spool will provide successful prints with improved quality!
Your opinion, is filament consistent across the brand or do you need to test each filament that you get? Example for PLA I generally use VoxelPLA . Should you run those tests on each batch you buy, for each color or just run at once for all filament from that brand?
Hey! Some filaments work well with other profiles (I've definitely run a print without changing the profile before and results haven't been terrible). By tuning each filament, it eliminates any guesswork on what profile you'd need to choose if it is specifically honed for that individual manufacturer/material/color. You may find that the values even come close after calibrating, but knowing that your tuned filament will perform as well as others ideally means that you'll calibrate a profile for each.
@kb1Legendflaco It changed the game when I first learned about tuning filament years ago (when you would manually change gcode files). With the files automatically altered dependent on the values you set, it removes the guesswork and reduces the time it takes to tune. Brilliant stuff!
Question - after the VFA test you mention @ 11:12 that you set your outer wall speed to match the speed from the test that looks the best, with the inner walls being run a bit higher. But where do you enter those values? I'm assuming you entered them into a profile speed section (rather than part of the filament settings)?
Great video! Quick question on your K1, what mods/upgrades provided the most significant improvement for you? (VFAs, extrusion etc.) I did the devil designs xy fatbpy joints and tool head cover but I wonder if I should change or add more to it like ldo motors, linear rails and so on.
The major benefits of the linear rail gantry that improve print quality/reduce VFA would be the 20T motor pulleys, the higher quality stepper motors, the flanged bearings, the 16T idler pulleys, upgrading the LM8LUU bearings even though they aren't listed in the BOM or included in the kit (Fushi black chrome is your best bet) and of course the linear rail itself. All of the components come together and through their combined efforts provide better output. I ran the kit for 5 months before moving forward with the install on my other machine. I truly believe that it is one of the best ways to reduce VFA beyond the removal of the springs in the printhead and whatever other methods I tried prior to installing my first kit. Beyond print quality, input shaping also improved which allows me to run the printer at higher acceleration values without risking a drop in print quality. Considering I melt ABS/ASA as my baseline filament, if I can achieve better quality prints in less time than what the printer provides in stock configuration, I'm all for it. Definitely look into it and see if it is an upgrade that you are comfortable completing and if the proven results match what you are looking to receive out of your own machine. Although I no longer have two of the same machines to provide comparative results to, I can cover the difference in print quality between my upgraded K1 and factory K1 Max so that people can see the difference, side by side. If that is something you are interested in, let me know as I have both of them tuned to provide the best quality output for their configuration. It isn't an exact match as the deviation between the K1 and K1 Max is clearly evident, but it is as close as I can get to a comparison as they are still within the same family. I support whatever choice you make. Hope that helps answer your question!
Dumb question. Do you do these calibration tests for each individual filament color? I am new to orca slice and hueforge both. Thank you for the video.
Every time I run a filament I've never melted before, I will make a new profile specific to that filament (i.e. I've melted a black ABS from one manufacturer but will rerun calibration if I pick up black ABS from another manufacturer). In the same regard, even if it is the same manufacturer and material type but it is a different color (i.e. Polymaker Metallic Blue ABS and Polymaker Metallic Green ABS), I will run another set of calibration tests. Ideally, every filament you melt will have its own profile but once they are set, you can select that profile if you purchase the same spool to melt down the line. It might take a bit of time and filament to perform the process, but it will provide the best results for the remainder of that spool and all of the matching spools to follow.
@@CovenantCustom The general consensus around the 'net is that every colour of filament from a manufacturer may behave differently (white is very different from blue for one I use, for instance). I fortunately either make functional prints where looks don't matter, or miniatures. In either case they'll be painted if I want them looking better, so I'll just find the colour of filament that's easiest to work with :)
@unspeakableoaf That's understandable! Just ends up being less filament to calibrate so you can spend more time producing prints and post-processing. I have a lot of respect for people that do prep/paint work following the printing process. If you've found a filament that melts well/provides quality results, by all means, stick with it!
@@CovenantCustom Yeah, I've decided to stick to only two colours, which allows me to bother with the extra calibration ;) (Black for functional stuff I print at butt quality, white for pretty much anything else.)
@unspeakableoaf I support that! Now it's just a matter of selecting one of the two profiles, loading a spool and you're back up and running. My filament profile list grows every month 😅
I've gone ahead to update the description to include their website! It has everything you need from the installer, the guide on how to get it running on your computer and all of the supporting data/information to cover what makes it such a great option to consider.
When you set too high outer wall speeds and your acceleration is not able to reach those speeds, it will print parts of the model slower. the difference between max speed and lowered speed is visible. too much acceleration will help against VFA but will introduce more ringing. Best is to print your usual stuff, object by object, with differet settings. Then pick the best combo of print speed and acceleration. In case of k1 / max, I would not trust the input shaper. What it recommends is garbage, it tells me ZV with 0.6% vibration on X but prints are full of ringing. Tried all, 3hump ei for X is best, mzv for Y and acceleration of 6-7k for outer / inner walls. for the rest 20k accel and 500mm/s printspeed.
I encourage people to mess with the settings to find what works best! I believe in matching inner/outer wall speeds if it provides better print quality. My preference should not dictate someone else's settings but are purely to act as a guide on the process overall. Great info for anyone who is wondering where to draw the line for print speed settings.
@@philipershler420 With every improvement that you make whether it be through printer or firmware upgrades, you can expect to receive better results/data to fine tune off of. I kept this video quite broad so that it can assist the 3D printing community as a whole, no matter what machine or configuration is being used. Definitely a big supporter of rooting/Klipper (I have one machine running Guilouz helper script and another running Simple AF - both K1's) with the results and functionality that it provides.
@Rubacava_ It definitely beats the alternative of being multiple hours and hundreds of grams of filament into a print before it fails. Not saying that will always be the case but I've seen more wasted filament from not calibrating then from performing this simple process before running a new material. At the end of day, it comes down to whether or not you're happy with the results you're getting and if you are, just keep it melting 😎 The calibration tests will always be there for you if you ever decide to see what their benefit is. Happy printing!
@maury818sf Trust me when I say that performing calibrations on $80-90 spools isn't something I'm particularly fond of. Especially when they only have 500g of filament on each spool. This process becomes especially important when you start working with engineering grade plastics. I'd even suggest buying a cheap $12-15 spool just to try it out. This way you can see how a little bit of filament makes the rest, go a long way. Learning the process so that it can be applied when you get to the point of melting higher grade materials. It's a great process to understand and apply if you decide to print long term.
@@maury818sf The thing is these values won't hold true anymore when you purchase another batch of the same filament. There will be variety between batches. The values will still work though as these are mostly tolerable and aims to increase quality instead of being a necessity. As a said, it is certainly not a waste if you have a print farm and/or have bunch of these from the same shipment.
@@CovenantCustomA well tuned profile will almost always work for similar type of filaments. Calibration is required to get the best quality out of the material so if you aiming that, by all means. Usually pressure advance and flow rate in ±5 range is pretty sufficent for my use case which maybe takes couple grams at most.
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Well done. Thank you. Super clear voice and explanations. Even for people that are familiar, I find your work flow quite good and found myself questioning my older methods. Keep going! Cheers :)
Many thanks! I definitely have had my fair share of printer struggles (still do!) but figure that if I can help others avoid them altogether, I will continue to take on the challenge of making videos so that printing can be as enjoyable as I know it to be for the rest of the community.
I appreciate your feedback! It certainly means a lot to know that the guide is still worth a watch even after using OrcaSlicer for a period of time.
Super insightful, how much filament did it use for all calibration in total? Seems like a lot, but I'm sure it's more for print farm reliability rather than single use/color spools.
@Longfu2000 For all of the tests combined, it used 93g. Well worth it if it means that the rest of the spool will provide successful prints with improved quality!
Your opinion, is filament consistent across the brand or do you need to test each filament that you get? Example for PLA I generally use VoxelPLA . Should you run those tests on each batch you buy, for each color or just run at once for all filament from that brand?
Hey! Some filaments work well with other profiles (I've definitely run a print without changing the profile before and results haven't been terrible). By tuning each filament, it eliminates any guesswork on what profile you'd need to choose if it is specifically honed for that individual manufacturer/material/color.
You may find that the values even come close after calibrating, but knowing that your tuned filament will perform as well as others ideally means that you'll calibrate a profile for each.
Hell yeah ima do this with all my filaments.
@kb1Legendflaco It changed the game when I first learned about tuning filament years ago (when you would manually change gcode files).
With the files automatically altered dependent on the values you set, it removes the guesswork and reduces the time it takes to tune. Brilliant stuff!
Question - after the VFA test you mention @ 11:12 that you set your outer wall speed to match the speed from the test that looks the best, with the inner walls being run a bit higher. But where do you enter those values? I'm assuming you entered them into a profile speed section (rather than part of the filament settings)?
You've got it! That would be the only setting that falls outside of the actual filament profile where you've placed all other values.
Great video! Quick question on your K1, what mods/upgrades provided the most significant improvement for you? (VFAs, extrusion etc.) I did the devil designs xy fatbpy joints and tool head cover but I wonder if I should change or add more to it like ldo motors, linear rails and so on.
The major benefits of the linear rail gantry that improve print quality/reduce VFA would be the 20T motor pulleys, the higher quality stepper motors, the flanged bearings, the 16T idler pulleys, upgrading the LM8LUU bearings even though they aren't listed in the BOM or included in the kit (Fushi black chrome is your best bet) and of course the linear rail itself. All of the components come together and through their combined efforts provide better output. I ran the kit for 5 months before moving forward with the install on my other machine. I truly believe that it is one of the best ways to reduce VFA beyond the removal of the springs in the printhead and whatever other methods I tried prior to installing my first kit.
Beyond print quality, input shaping also improved which allows me to run the printer at higher acceleration values without risking a drop in print quality. Considering I melt ABS/ASA as my baseline filament, if I can achieve better quality prints in less time than what the printer provides in stock configuration, I'm all for it. Definitely look into it and see if it is an upgrade that you are comfortable completing and if the proven results match what you are looking to receive out of your own machine.
Although I no longer have two of the same machines to provide comparative results to, I can cover the difference in print quality between my upgraded K1 and factory K1 Max so that people can see the difference, side by side. If that is something you are interested in, let me know as I have both of them tuned to provide the best quality output for their configuration. It isn't an exact match as the deviation between the K1 and K1 Max is clearly evident, but it is as close as I can get to a comparison as they are still within the same family. I support whatever choice you make. Hope that helps answer your question!
Can you provide us with a link of all the parts or there’s a full kit? Thxs
Have you heard about the SB53 G-Code Flow and Temperature Controller script? (For OrcaSlicer)
This would definitely be the first! Checked out your video and can appreciate the time and dedication that you invested in that project. Great work!
Dumb question. Do you do these calibration tests for each individual filament color? I am new to orca slice and hueforge both. Thank you for the video.
Every time I run a filament I've never melted before, I will make a new profile specific to that filament (i.e. I've melted a black ABS from one manufacturer but will rerun calibration if I pick up black ABS from another manufacturer).
In the same regard, even if it is the same manufacturer and material type but it is a different color (i.e. Polymaker Metallic Blue ABS and Polymaker Metallic Green ABS), I will run another set of calibration tests.
Ideally, every filament you melt will have its own profile but once they are set, you can select that profile if you purchase the same spool to melt down the line.
It might take a bit of time and filament to perform the process, but it will provide the best results for the remainder of that spool and all of the matching spools to follow.
@@CovenantCustom The general consensus around the 'net is that every colour of filament from a manufacturer may behave differently (white is very different from blue for one I use, for instance). I fortunately either make functional prints where looks don't matter, or miniatures. In either case they'll be painted if I want them looking better, so I'll just find the colour of filament that's easiest to work with :)
@unspeakableoaf That's understandable! Just ends up being less filament to calibrate so you can spend more time producing prints and post-processing.
I have a lot of respect for people that do prep/paint work following the printing process.
If you've found a filament that melts well/provides quality results, by all means, stick with it!
@@CovenantCustom Yeah, I've decided to stick to only two colours, which allows me to bother with the extra calibration ;)
(Black for functional stuff I print at butt quality, white for pretty much anything else.)
@unspeakableoaf I support that! Now it's just a matter of selecting one of the two profiles, loading a spool and you're back up and running.
My filament profile list grows every month 😅
Is it hard to get this slicer
I've gone ahead to update the description to include their website! It has everything you need from the installer, the guide on how to get it running on your computer and all of the supporting data/information to cover what makes it such a great option to consider.
When you set too high outer wall speeds and your acceleration is not able to reach those speeds, it will print parts of the model slower. the difference between max speed and lowered speed is visible. too much acceleration will help against VFA but will introduce more ringing. Best is to print your usual stuff, object by object, with differet settings. Then pick the best combo of print speed and acceleration. In case of k1 / max, I would not trust the input shaper. What it recommends is garbage, it tells me ZV with 0.6% vibration on X but prints are full of ringing. Tried all, 3hump ei for X is best, mzv for Y and acceleration of 6-7k for outer / inner walls. for the rest 20k accel and 500mm/s printspeed.
I encourage people to mess with the settings to find what works best! I believe in matching inner/outer wall speeds if it provides better print quality. My preference should not dictate someone else's settings but are purely to act as a guide on the process overall. Great info for anyone who is wondering where to draw the line for print speed settings.
@@CovenantCustomI also think that with the printer rooted and Klipper installed, one can get better measurements and results for compensations.
@@philipershler420 With every improvement that you make whether it be through printer or firmware upgrades, you can expect to receive better results/data to fine tune off of. I kept this video quite broad so that it can assist the 3D printing community as a whole, no matter what machine or configuration is being used. Definitely a big supporter of rooting/Klipper (I have one machine running Guilouz helper script and another running Simple AF - both K1's) with the results and functionality that it provides.
👍
Too much filament wasted just for calibration. Doesn't make sense much to me if you only have around a kg of that spool
Do you plan to stop printing when it runs out? Are you not going to buy more?
@Rubacava_ It definitely beats the alternative of being multiple hours and hundreds of grams of filament into a print before it fails.
Not saying that will always be the case but I've seen more wasted filament from not calibrating then from performing this simple process before running a new material.
At the end of day, it comes down to whether or not you're happy with the results you're getting and if you are, just keep it melting 😎 The calibration tests will always be there for you if you ever decide to see what their benefit is.
Happy printing!
@maury818sf Trust me when I say that performing calibrations on $80-90 spools isn't something I'm particularly fond of. Especially when they only have 500g of filament on each spool.
This process becomes especially important when you start working with engineering grade plastics.
I'd even suggest buying a cheap $12-15 spool just to try it out. This way you can see how a little bit of filament makes the rest, go a long way. Learning the process so that it can be applied when you get to the point of melting higher grade materials.
It's a great process to understand and apply if you decide to print long term.
@@maury818sf The thing is these values won't hold true anymore when you purchase another batch of the same filament. There will be variety between batches. The values will still work though as these are mostly tolerable and aims to increase quality instead of being a necessity. As a said, it is certainly not a waste if you have a print farm and/or have bunch of these from the same shipment.
@@CovenantCustomA well tuned profile will almost always work for similar type of filaments. Calibration is required to get the best quality out of the material so if you aiming that, by all means. Usually pressure advance and flow rate in ±5 range is pretty sufficent for my use case which maybe takes couple grams at most.