If you're gonna do this, take the plastic bits off, especially the sill covers and then wash everything. Also you should really allow the car to fully dry before you spray cavity wax or under coating. Definitely a summer job so you can take the whole weekend to allow to dry.
The patio cleaner attachment (if you already have one) for the Karcher works really well for car undersides if you attach it up the other way (180 degrees from normal).
Hey Matt,another enjoyable video on The Mini. I looked at buying a Mini myself, but after a bit of thought I’d go for a Volvo 30 and I did watch your video video review of The C30 too.
I used Bilt Hamber products on my JDM Honda to protect it but I had the use of a ramp which made this job so much easier! Well done for your efforts to do this on your drive!
I'm not sure I'd be risking that airbag connector for the MOT! It only takes a tall or short tester to move the seat and its back, so i would definitely get it sorted properly. Should only be a small amount of soldering, 10 mins work once the seat is out
@@furiousdriving it's only likely to be a couple of inches from the connector as thats where the stress is. On the VW Mk5 connectors, there was an issue with the plugs themselves in the pre-2007 models and I believe there was a recall for it.
That undercarriage sprayer is brilliant! I've been looking for something to get the salt off the bottom of my MX5! I have a tip for you too, Matt: Everything under Karcher K3 is rebranded plastic Chinese junk that breaks in less than a year. The models K3 and up are serviceable and last you a lifetime.
I’m not an expert in pressure washers but karcher seem to be a large well known company and the connectors probably have the largest amount of accessories available. I’ve had mine for ten to fifteen years with no problem.
@@TheShinyShow Karcher dominates the global market, I wouldn't risk messing with cheaper brands. The K3 has gone out of production but is still available, it is powerful enough to blast road grime off your car, but if you need to, say, clear wooden decks etc you need a more powerful model. My K3 is 6 years old and problem free.
Great video. Did all underside of my 2004 Range Rover with Bilt hamber UB, mainly subframes and inside of them with Bilt hamber s50, then for cost reasons rest of the car in traditional black Waxoyl but heated up, goes on easy then and bonds better and creeps better. Also use a lot of other Bilt hamber products and they all work well.
The 75/ZTs I’ve had over the years have had the same issue with the airbag light. Replaced the connectors with new ones on every one and it has always cured it. Fingers crossed for the MOT!
the airbag connectors on the 75 zt seats are probably the exact same as the mini connectors, all BMW parts i guess. ive known loads of 75/ZT's having airbag light issues lol
Good job there, I've not used that rust proofer but I've used lanogurd for a good few years on all of our cars and it's works brilliant and far less mess than dinitrol
Memories of the Taxi's annual CoF, a steam clean, treat any surface rust then a respray with a chassis paint, black or aluminium, get any mechanical work done, check the seal on the meter and expiry dates on fire extinguisher and first aid kit contents and pray. Once the new ticket obtained would spray the inside of cavities with old engine oil (couldn't do before as any drips onto him would be a fail) and retouch any chipped paint that energetic use of the light hammer by the examiner caused. Helped if the CoF was due in the summer, the paint dried quicker.
That job really neds a ramp. Definitely worth doing though. I would try changing the connectors under the set before ripping out wiring. I've found this usually sorts out most problems.
Nice work Matt, the underside of the Mini, looks really good, and just as important the factory appearance has been retained, it should last many more years now, well done❤.
That Blue Mini One was stunning at the NEC. That's a job I need to do in the summer. Great little Tinkering video Matt as always. Just a thought can you not get a Emulator to solve the Airbag issue?
All this undersealing. Reminds me that i need to do this to my Mitsubishi Lancer,once I've sorted the wiring,oil change, touched in the rust,brakes etc. Bloody weather has played havoc this year on my plans. Like loads of others, all my work is outside and I dislike the cold and the rain. Nevermind, it will get done sometime this year.........
When it comes to doing jobs like this, I can't speak too highly about my CJ Autos scissor lift. Rated for 2000kg, adjustable in width, if you position it correctly you can easily tip the car either forwards or backwards for access, or keep the car level. I love mine! I do have to drive my V40 up onto some planks of wood to raise it an inch or so, so the scissor lift fits underneath, but that's far better than trying to drive up some ramps. Fair disclaimer, it does have one somewhat large disadvantage - storing it! It's a heavy bit of kit and does take up a decent amount of space. That aside, it is undoubtedly the best money I have ever spent!
Definitely gonna do this to my ZR in the summertime. Good to see the wax treats rust aswell as prevents it because the MK2 MGs were already short of underseal from the factory let alone after 20yrs 😂
My 04 R50 Cooper hasn’t had any issues with airbag lights. She’s now on 155K. I also need to look at my tank saddle as it’s very rusty. I’m surprised the mot man hasn’t flagged it.
Not sure eif someone has mentioned this but e46s had this issue with the airbag light and ut was actually the occupancy sensor mat that sits in the seat base of the seat. Quite often it was the passenger side one that was actually damaged, not the drivers side. Not sure if that's any use to you
My nan has a 2013 mini countryman one amazing little car with the 1.6 engine but it went in for MOT in September 22 and came back with a advisory for rear subframe corroded but not seriously weakened and it’s only 10 years old!
Hi I’ve been using that on my zr. I de rusted all the suspension rust treated it sprayed it all black then took all the wheel arch liners off ans sprayed everything with the wax. I found they run out quickly but I think I was going a bit mad with them
Shame more people don't do this to cars from factory. Iv got a mk4 escort that only recently had it's first patch of welding. I found the sills had alot of old cavity wax inside. Didn't catch fire when welding just melted off. This really is the way forward
My daughters 5 year old MG has issues with both the airbag looms and required constant attention. In the end I just chopped a few inches of cable either side of the connector under the seat and run some new wire and had to settle for several individual connectors in case I need to take the seat out
Just a bit of an FYI, my R53 Cooper S race car obviously has all the airbags removed. The module that controls them is under the plastics behind the handbrake. Unplugging this will obviously disable the system but as an added bonus the warning lights do not come on. Might be an idea if you're struggling with future MOTs.
@@furiousdriving I've just checked and no the airbag light doesn't come on at all. But all the other system lights come on and go off. Depends if you think your MOT tester would notice the lack of airbag light on the system check.
Should ideally send it for dry ice blasting then replace any parts that don’t return to factory finish. Then seal the lot. I’ll get round to doing my R50 eventually haven’t even drove it for 6 months as rats where it was stored managed to get up into the engine bay and destroy some wiring luckily it’s wiring on plugs so can be replaced easily
I deal with these minis all the time as my side line job of buying and selling them the blue connector is the pre tensioner and there should be a yellow connector which is the air bag you can unplug it and add a 2.2 ohm resistor to car side of wiring then clear code and then tape that resistor in place so when you move seat light stays out
@@randymarsh385 I haven't done this but there there is a video which was directly under this posted by a guy under the name of mini gurus on you tube who was doing this to pass mot I know it because I watched it after this one
@@furiousdriving I wouldn't call it a toy but a necessary tool, especially in areas like yours and mine that use salt on the roads. Many don't wash the undercarriage because we simply cannot reach underneath, and some car washes don't properly wash underneath either. Again, great job, and maybe when the weather warms up soon you can use the Mini a bit more often!
Keep in mind that in case of crash, the wires could break contact again and the airbags would not deploy. Also, if one airbag gives the error code, all of the airbags will be disabled. Best to replace that loom, or section of the loom.
And then you wandered into the house asking Ms Furious if she wanted any waxing done...skirting boards?, food cupboard?, door jambs?, under the couch?..NO! oh well just asking. 😄
I'm afraid your mini is NOT a pre production model. It has a build date of May 2001 The MINI went into full production in APRIL 2001 at the Oxford plant England. Don't get me wrong, it's an early production car but not pre production as that was January 2001. Hope that helps
Under seal must be sprayed on in the summertime, first a complete wash and pressure hose down, then overnight dry, then in the afternoon spray the whole underside and lock the garage again overnight……job done properly.
Taking the long nozzle off and putting a normal aerosol head on works way better, less dripping. It needs to be sprayed evenly just like an aerosol can 👍🙂
Great job matt need to do the freelander and the renault master campervan too just finished putting a clutch in the camper oh I ach now all the best donny
R50 Airbag problem the bane of my life for the 5 years ive currently owned my 52 plate cooper. The flashing on and off is the code resetting it flashes on and off until fully reset. Mine has also got the fault of having phantom window wipers that either won't turn off or park on any setting or when the engine is hot comes on by themselves in slow motion speed, if ANYONE knows what this could be let me know. Also developed the ABS coming on and off for no reason this week, guessing its the sensor being faulty lol. All fun and games with the electrics.
Interesting episode, but it thought all pre-production cars were crushed to avoid possible law suits if something breaks later on in their lives. Did BMW act differently with the MINI?
I was unaware that this was a pre-production model. I don't know for certain, but here in sue-happy America, I don't think pre-production cars really reach the general public due to liability concerns. The "original" MINI (as opposed the Issigonis original) is a car that I am so tempted to buy as a daily driver. The vehicle suits my needs perfectly though I am still learning which model years / powertrains are the most reliable. In your situation, your mechanical knowledge makes such a decision less daunting. The following generations have obviously increased in size, and the current generation, especially the Countryman, are oversized. Whatever happened to the mantra of sports car designers like Colin Chapman focusing on light weight and minimum of affectations (wind-down windows, air condition delete, and radio delete, anyone?). I need to act fast on a first generation as they are quickly heading towards classic status.
Pre prod cars never get sold in Europe either, not since the 70s, so it's not clear why all the pilot build cars were sold when BMW had finished with them. These are the best new Mini, small and feels like a Mini, and the timing chain engine means they are super reliable
Exactly what’s happening to mine 😫 it came on a month ago it turned it off and haven’t moved the front seat since, got back from a trip Saturday my daughter got out next time I get into it air bag light back on. Out with the diagnostics again 😫😂
@@timprice5 Have you seen my channel, the amount of projects I’ve got going on, there’s very little time spare, but the mini is priority it’s is my daily driver lights now off again for the time being 😩😂
Couple of questions. Firstly anyone have relative experience of Bilt Hamber vs. Dinitrol products? I've used Dinitrol before with good results. Secondly, it is not better to dunk the pressurized cans in hot water first? This increase the pressure in the can and makes the wax more fluid for penetration into the seams. As stated before this is better done in summer for the same reason.
@@furiousdriving Good to know. I'm guessing the Halfords product is pretty similar (or is rebadged) old school Waxoyl - which to be fair works pretty well but needs a lot of effort to apply properly (you really need to thin it to get it to "creep" into seams effectively and you tend to need to overapply it so the first hot day afterwards you might find a pool of it on the garage floor! Dinitrol have about half a dozen different formulations with different thicknesses and "creep" properties which makes the job a whole lot easier. I've stopped using those underseal type products altogether since I discovered epoxy can be had cheap as chips online. I use that and "tough black" for cosmetics on top.
All the extra maintenance you need to do to your cars in the UK no such proplems in Australia l have never waxed a vehicle ever sealed or waxed any vehicle l have made rust repairs on older British and Japanese vehicles but not my flat top utes
Different problems here, we down get cracked and sunburnt paint or interiors the way you do, or deadly spiders int he door hinges - not sure if I prefer that or rust..
Depends on the car my Toyota Hilux only has one small crack in the top of the dash board and it dits outside and no bad rust even old British cars rust in Australia and we don't have to go to the expense of winter tyres keep the same tyres all year round
I’m beginning to worry about you Matt 🤔 real men NEVER go smaller only BIGGER !!!!!! especially when it come to Karcher 😁, man up Matt and go BIG or go home 👌🏻.Nice maintenance routine and Mini will out last us both I fear 👍🏻.
This is definitely something I want to do on my Cavalier’s, I thought of trying the Dynax on my MK2 and the Lanogard on my MK3 to see what both products are like, I like the way the lanogard goes onto rust and converts it, I guess Dynax does a similar product. Cheers Matt. Steve.
Those Karchers are normally good for a year or two, and then they start cracking the pump heads (as they are plastic) and pulse and leak like a goodun. In fairness my Kranzle wasn't cheap but I've had it since I was 18 and I'm 35 now. Only thing I've ever replaced is the motor start capacitor which I think was £20 a couple of years ago. Top notch quality but a big capital outlay
Classic good video l enjoy your channel but realistically yr night mare too many cars. The Merc and old mini will keep u busy until retirement hopefully you'll still have wife😂.
@@furiousdriving I think it was a line from an old one-coat Hammerite advert? Not dissing your skllz, Matt - just the way my brain works! Btw, sound disappears for a while at one point.
Bless you for not knowing what FFP3 means ;-) • Protection from poisonous and deleterious kinds of dust, smoke, and aerosols Oncogenic and radioactive substances or pathogens such as viruses, bacteria and fungal spores are filtered by this protective class of respirator masks • Total leakage may amount to a maximum of 5% • OEL transgression to the thirtyfold value Protection class FFP3 respirator masks offer maximum protection from breathing air pollution. The total leakage may amount to a maximum of 5% and they must filter 99% of all particles measuring up to 0.6 μm. This kind of mask also filters poisonous, oncogenic and radioactive particles. Protection class FFP3 masks are used in working environments transgressing the OEL by the thirtyfold industry-specific values. They are often used in the chemistry industry.
Just watched hubnut being extremely hubnut 🤓👍 and now extremely furious you've got a light fetish that many youtubers have collecting inspection lamps 🔦
If you're gonna do this, take the plastic bits off, especially the sill covers and then wash everything. Also you should really allow the car to fully dry before you spray cavity wax or under coating. Definitely a summer job so you can take the whole weekend to allow to dry.
It's worth paying £50 to have the underside steam cleaned first too.
@@peterbroad1772 yeah if that's something available near you. It's not for me so I just use some brushes, APC and pressure washer.
You'll notice I pressure washed the car a different day to the rest of the job and did wash behind the plastics, undoing or removing the trim.
The patio cleaner attachment (if you already have one) for the Karcher works really well for car undersides if you attach it up the other way (180 degrees from normal).
Hey Matt,another enjoyable video on The Mini. I looked at buying a Mini myself, but after a bit of thought I’d go for a Volvo 30 and I did watch your video video review of The C30 too.
I used Bilt Hamber products on my JDM Honda to protect it but I had the use of a ramp which made this job so much easier! Well done for your efforts to do this on your drive!
I need a ramp one day soon..
I'm not sure I'd be risking that airbag connector for the MOT! It only takes a tall or short tester to move the seat and its back, so i would definitely get it sorted properly.
Should only be a small amount of soldering, 10 mins work once the seat is out
only a small amount once youve found which wire and where
@@furiousdriving it's only likely to be a couple of inches from the connector as thats where the stress is. On the VW Mk5 connectors, there was an issue with the plugs themselves in the pre-2007 models and I believe there was a recall for it.
That undercarriage sprayer is brilliant! I've been looking for something to get the salt off the bottom of my MX5! I have a tip for you too, Matt: Everything under Karcher K3 is rebranded plastic Chinese junk that breaks in less than a year. The models K3 and up are serviceable and last you a lifetime.
Do you know of any better power washer companies or am I best just going K3 and up?
I’m not an expert in pressure washers but karcher seem to be a large well known company and the connectors probably have the largest amount of accessories available.
I’ve had mine for ten to fifteen years with no problem.
@@TheShinyShow Karcher dominates the global market, I wouldn't risk messing with cheaper brands. The K3 has gone out of production but is still available, it is powerful enough to blast road grime off your car, but if you need to, say, clear wooden decks etc you need a more powerful model. My K3 is 6 years old and problem free.
I’ve had a Karcher K2 for five years now without any problems.
Great video. Did all underside of my 2004 Range Rover with Bilt hamber UB, mainly subframes and inside of them with Bilt hamber s50, then for cost reasons rest of the car in traditional black Waxoyl but heated up, goes on easy then and bonds better and creeps better.
Also use a lot of other Bilt hamber products and they all work well.
The 75/ZTs I’ve had over the years have had the same issue with the airbag light. Replaced the connectors with new ones on every one and it has always cured it. Fingers crossed for the MOT!
20 year old wiring is not ideal
the airbag connectors on the 75 zt seats are probably the exact same as the mini connectors, all BMW parts i guess. ive known loads of 75/ZT's having airbag light issues lol
@@RoverNathan Perhaps Matt will be finding this out with his new 75!
Wow, love that under chassis cleaner. I’ve used Dynax on previous projects too and I it’s a fantastic product after all these years
I can see Amazon having a run on those cleaners this week!
Good job there, I've not used that rust proofer but I've used lanogurd for a good few years on all of our cars and it's works brilliant and far less mess than dinitrol
Not tried Lanogaurd yet, but this was much less messy that old style waxoyl
@@furiousdriving Lanoguard presumably ?
Memories of the Taxi's annual CoF, a steam clean, treat any surface rust then a respray with a chassis paint, black or aluminium, get any mechanical work done, check the seal on the meter and expiry dates on fire extinguisher and first aid kit contents and pray. Once the new ticket obtained would spray the inside of cavities with old engine oil (couldn't do before as any drips onto him would be a fail) and retouch any chipped paint that energetic use of the light hammer by the examiner caused. Helped if the CoF was due in the summer, the paint dried quicker.
That job really neds a ramp. Definitely worth doing though. I would try changing the connectors under the set before ripping out wiring. I've found this usually sorts out most problems.
Nice work Matt, the underside of the Mini, looks really good, and just as important the factory appearance has been retained, it should last many more years now, well done❤.
That Blue Mini One was stunning at the NEC.
That's a job I need to do in the summer.
Great little Tinkering video Matt as always.
Just a thought can you not get a Emulator to solve the Airbag issue?
I couldn't believe how clean that car was!
All this undersealing. Reminds me that i need to do this to my Mitsubishi Lancer,once I've sorted the wiring,oil change, touched in the rust,brakes etc. Bloody weather has played havoc this year on my plans. Like loads of others, all my work is outside and I dislike the cold and the rain. Nevermind, it will get done sometime this year.........
when you first start with the clear wax there is a big rubber bush of some sort on show which looked a bit shot.maybe lower arm or subframe mount.
When it comes to doing jobs like this, I can't speak too highly about my CJ Autos scissor lift. Rated for 2000kg, adjustable in width, if you position it correctly you can easily tip the car either forwards or backwards for access, or keep the car level. I love mine! I do have to drive my V40 up onto some planks of wood to raise it an inch or so, so the scissor lift fits underneath, but that's far better than trying to drive up some ramps.
Fair disclaimer, it does have one somewhat large disadvantage - storing it! It's a heavy bit of kit and does take up a decent amount of space. That aside, it is undoubtedly the best money I have ever spent!
I think you crammed mire car info into 10 minutes than Flintoff McGuinness and Harris do in an entire series of Top Gear!
More please!
Definitely gonna do this to my ZR in the summertime. Good to see the wax treats rust aswell as prevents it because the MK2 MGs were already short of underseal from the factory let alone after 20yrs 😂
My 04 R50 Cooper hasn’t had any issues with airbag lights. She’s now on 155K. I also need to look at my tank saddle as it’s very rusty. I’m surprised the mot man hasn’t flagged it.
Not sure eif someone has mentioned this but e46s had this issue with the airbag light and ut was actually the occupancy sensor mat that sits in the seat base of the seat. Quite often it was the passenger side one that was actually damaged, not the drivers side. Not sure if that's any use to you
My nan has a 2013 mini countryman one amazing little car with the 1.6 engine but it went in for MOT in September 22 and came back with a advisory for rear subframe corroded but not seriously weakened and it’s only 10 years old!
Hi I’ve been using that on my zr. I de rusted all the suspension rust treated it sprayed it all black then took all the wheel arch liners off ans sprayed everything with the wax. I found they run out quickly but I think I was going a bit mad with them
Shame more people don't do this to cars from factory. Iv got a mk4 escort that only recently had it's first patch of welding. I found the sills had alot of old cavity wax inside. Didn't catch fire when welding just melted off. This really is the way forward
really helpful video Matt! Thanks so much for posting this! I just did my car! Thanks again and keep up the good work!
My daughters 5 year old MG has issues with both the airbag looms and required constant attention. In the end I just chopped a few inches of cable either side of the connector under the seat and run some new wire and had to settle for several individual connectors in case I need to take the seat out
Just a bit of an FYI, my R53 Cooper S race car obviously has all the airbags removed. The module that controls them is under the plastics behind the handbrake. Unplugging this will obviously disable the system but as an added bonus the warning lights do not come on. Might be an idea if you're struggling with future MOTs.
Do they come on with the system check at the beginning? Thats the trick as they have to flash on for a second at first
@@furiousdriving I've just checked and no the airbag light doesn't come on at all. But all the other system lights come on and go off. Depends if you think your MOT tester would notice the lack of airbag light on the system check.
@@steventhomson7531 I think they look for that as people take out or blank the bulbs if theres a problem
Owatrol Oil is great for pre-spraying rusty parts. Then topcoat with wax.
Should ideally send it for dry ice blasting then replace any parts that don’t return to factory finish. Then seal the lot. I’ll get round to doing my R50 eventually haven’t even drove it for 6 months as rats where it was stored managed to get up into the engine bay and destroy some wiring luckily it’s wiring on plugs so can be replaced easily
I deal with these minis all the time as my side line job of buying and selling them the blue connector is the pre tensioner and there should be a yellow connector which is the air bag you can unplug it and add a 2.2 ohm resistor to car side of wiring then clear code and then tape that resistor in place so when you move seat light stays out
Thanks, Ill find that first thing tomorrow!
Wouldn't that disable the airbag though? I hope you inform prospective buyers of this bodge.
@@randymarsh385 I haven't done this but there there is a video which was directly under this posted by a guy under the name of mini gurus on you tube who was doing this to pass mot I know it because I watched it after this one
Glad you got the undercarriage nozzle, great for blasting underneath.
The Mini Cooper is one of my favourite British vehicles
Great job!
its a great toy, got it for the Freelander but useful for everything
@@furiousdriving I wouldn't call it a toy but a necessary tool, especially in areas like yours and mine that use salt on the roads.
Many don't wash the undercarriage because we simply cannot reach underneath, and some car washes don't properly wash underneath either.
Again, great job, and maybe when the weather warms up soon you can use the Mini a bit more often!
Nice job Matt but my missus would murder me with all that wax on the floor 😂
Keep in mind that in case of crash, the wires could break contact again and the airbags would not deploy. Also, if one airbag gives the error code, all of the airbags will be disabled. Best to replace that loom, or section of the loom.
And then you wandered into the house asking Ms Furious if she wanted any waxing done...skirting boards?, food cupboard?, door jambs?, under the couch?..NO! oh well just asking. 😄
I'm afraid your mini is NOT a pre production model. It has a build date of May 2001
The MINI went into full production in APRIL 2001 at the Oxford plant England.
Don't get me wrong, it's an early production car but not pre production as that was January 2001.
Hope that helps
How is the P6 doing? Any updates on that coming up soon?
update as soon as the garage are done
@@furiousdriving Ok that will be very interesting to find out what the problem was.
Under seal must be sprayed on in the summertime, first a complete wash and pressure hose down, then overnight dry, then in the afternoon spray the whole underside and lock the garage again overnight……job done properly.
Why it's an issues in the UK for cars to rust. Do local municipalities use salt during winter months?
yes lots of it!
For the job of the under body seal is the Bilt Hamber UB, have this job due on my diesel punto!
Taking the long nozzle off and putting a normal aerosol head on works way better, less dripping. It needs to be sprayed evenly just like an aerosol can 👍🙂
Did my Gen2 last summer. So much fun Good old Hammerite was the weapon of choice.
A job well worth doing for sure Matt!
That Bilt Hamber is good stuff. Put 10L of it into the cavities of my classic VW Camper
A job well done Matt! It s quite a satisfying feeling isnt it..
Chaotic.
Great job matt need to do the freelander and the renault master campervan too just finished putting a clutch in the camper oh I ach now all the best donny
Do the Freelander first!
@@furiousdriving will do I took off the plastic bits on sills no rust so lucky with it never been welded so good waxing will help keep it that way
@@donnysweekendvanlifetravel7854 Good news! Thats lucky
R50 Airbag problem the bane of my life for the 5 years ive currently owned my 52 plate cooper. The flashing on and off is the code resetting it flashes on and off until fully reset. Mine has also got the fault of having phantom window wipers that either won't turn off or park on any setting or when the engine is hot comes on by themselves in slow motion speed, if ANYONE knows what this could be let me know. Also developed the ABS coming on and off for no reason this week, guessing its the sensor being faulty lol. All fun and games with the electrics.
A previous owner has earthed my wipers direct to the battery so I guess they had issues with it!
@@furiousdriving Will try that thanks keep up the good work
God dam it! I need one of those under body cleaning attachments now aha Nice video
hahaha! Yes, there are always more toys!
@@furiousdriving haha for sure the little Y reg is looking ace
Top notch work.
Very impressive.
Interesting episode, but it thought all pre-production cars were crushed to avoid possible law suits if something breaks later on in their lives. Did BMW act differently with the MINI?
apparently. there were a couple of hundred sold as approved used soon after launch
I use lanoguard on my old car and van it's a great product Ive used it for years now.
Furious spraying! I felt dirty just watching. Loving the commitment to the cause.
I was unaware that this was a pre-production model. I don't know for certain, but here in sue-happy America, I don't think pre-production cars really reach the general public due to liability concerns. The "original" MINI (as opposed the Issigonis original) is a car that I am so tempted to buy as a daily driver. The vehicle suits my needs perfectly though I am still learning which model years / powertrains are the most reliable. In your situation, your mechanical knowledge makes such a decision less daunting. The following generations have obviously increased in size, and the current generation, especially the Countryman, are oversized. Whatever happened to the mantra of sports car designers like Colin Chapman focusing on light weight and minimum of affectations (wind-down windows, air condition delete, and radio delete, anyone?). I need to act fast on a first generation as they are quickly heading towards classic status.
Pre prod cars never get sold in Europe either, not since the 70s, so it's not clear why all the pilot build cars were sold when BMW had finished with them.
These are the best new Mini, small and feels like a Mini, and the timing chain engine means they are super reliable
It's not pre production as it was built in May 2001, a few weeks after the start up of the mini
So as soon as the MOT tester gets and moves the seat the airbag light will come on lol
Ill tell him its stuck
Yes, I would have taken the seat out for a proper look.
Exactly what’s happening to mine 😫 it came on a month ago it turned it off and haven’t moved the front seat since, got back from a trip Saturday my daughter got out next time I get into it air bag light back on. Out with the diagnostics again 😫😂
@@menditman2004 perhaps you need to follow your own channel name, and 'Mend it, man'! 😆
@@timprice5 Have you seen my channel, the amount of projects I’ve got going on, there’s very little time spare, but the mini is priority it’s is my daily driver lights now off again for the time being 😩😂
Phew, this was about the car! For a moment I thought it was getting personal. Waxing my mini indeed.
Couple of questions. Firstly anyone have relative experience of Bilt Hamber vs. Dinitrol products? I've used Dinitrol before with good results. Secondly, it is not better to dunk the pressurized cans in hot water first? This increase the pressure in the can and makes the wax more fluid for penetration into the seams. As stated before this is better done in summer for the same reason.
This is VERY fluid already. On the thicker usual Halfords brands I use the hot bucket but not needed here
@@furiousdriving Good to know. I'm guessing the Halfords product is pretty similar (or is rebadged) old school Waxoyl - which to be fair works pretty well but needs a lot of effort to apply properly (you really need to thin it to get it to "creep" into seams effectively and you tend to need to overapply it so the first hot day afterwards you might find a pool of it on the garage floor! Dinitrol have about half a dozen different formulations with different thicknesses and "creep" properties which makes the job a whole lot easier. I've stopped using those underseal type products altogether since I discovered epoxy can be had cheap as chips online. I use that and "tough black" for cosmetics on top.
@@peterbroad1772 Its still Waxoyl branded, I used it on the Crown Vic and it was miserable applying it
I wish I can fabricate a “car body roller “ which enables me turn the entire car on it’s side. It will make cleaning the underside a lot easier.
And cut off the fuel pump, and potentially deploy the airbags. :p
Nice work! Will you do the Crown Vic too?
I did it in black last year but need to go over it again in places
I’ve used the Dynax on my cars and it’s really good stuff 👍
Great video. So clean!
The Citroen Saxo and Peugeot 106 suffered from the same airbag light issue.
All the extra maintenance you need to do to your cars in the UK no such proplems in Australia l have never waxed a vehicle ever sealed or waxed any vehicle l have made rust repairs on older British and Japanese vehicles but not my flat top utes
Different problems here, we down get cracked and sunburnt paint or interiors the way you do, or deadly spiders int he door hinges - not sure if I prefer that or rust..
Depends on the car my Toyota Hilux only has one small crack in the top of the dash board and it dits outside and no bad rust even old British cars rust in Australia and we don't have to go to the expense of winter tyres keep the same tyres all year round
I have to say, that car is very, very tidy underneath. I’d expect a lot more corrosion
Don't suppose you have a link to that bull dog wonder spray you use? Cheers
just from the Bill Hamber website
I’m beginning to worry about you Matt 🤔 real men NEVER go smaller only BIGGER !!!!!! especially when it come to Karcher 😁, man up Matt and go BIG or go home 👌🏻.Nice maintenance routine and Mini will out last us both I fear 👍🏻.
Lanoguard is what you want fantastic stuff
This is definitely something I want to do on my Cavalier’s, I thought of trying the Dynax on my MK2 and the Lanogard on my MK3 to see what both products are like, I like the way the lanogard goes onto rust and converts it, I guess Dynax does a similar product. Cheers Matt. Steve.
Yes, this should do the same, although Id have gone for black if there was visible rust already present
Good job,nice car, be careful with that stuff on the ground cats will investigate.
LO again,Are ye no better doin that in the Summer. "If we get one that is". Hot sunny stuff for days on end blah blah. 🤓
We had a warm day, might not see another
Same pressure washer as mine, nice to know I am not the only cheap skate.
Those Karchers are normally good for a year or two, and then they start cracking the pump heads (as they are plastic) and pulse and leak like a goodun.
In fairness my Kranzle wasn't cheap but I've had it since I was 18 and I'm 35 now. Only thing I've ever replaced is the motor start capacitor which I think was £20 a couple of years ago. Top notch quality but a big capital outlay
looks like furiously messy fun
nice .. i'll watch this during my break
clear underseal ?? what times we live in .. under-sealing / cavity waxing a job i hate .. but you do get a sense of achievement when it's done
well done matt
Let's just hope the MOT tester hasn't got to move to seat🤞😁
What does pre production mean
build before the robots started building them to work out how to assemble them
Seat is supposed to move for the mot
I don’t quite understand why your videos don’t always come up on subscribed alerts
Thats odd, has RUclips unsubscribed you?
@@furiousdriving No, that’s what I don’t understand. Your new car video was at the top of my homepage, but not on the subscribed
Classic good video l enjoy your channel but realistically yr night mare too many cars.
The Merc and old mini will keep u busy until retirement hopefully you'll still have wife😂.
"You don't need a primer. You don't need an undercoat." 😁👍
Not for this, formulated to go straight on so you can see the panels beneath
@@furiousdriving I think it was a line from an old one-coat Hammerite advert? Not dissing your skllz, Matt - just the way my brain works! Btw, sound disappears for a while at one point.
@@giulianomarco sorry, missed that! boy is my face red!
Hi i got mini london 2012 going to undersealing
I think you have just saved your Mini.
If your neighbour is a builder have you ever thought about him digging out an inspection pit in your garage.
We've talked about going up a level for a ramp - the Mini could live in the rafters
How the rover p6 brown
Ive not got a brown one?
The one you had repaired
what EXTREAM legths you go to underneath that mini grrr !!!
People watching this .... regardless of what it says on the tin ...NEVER EVER paint over rust.
surprised it had nothing on it to begin with
Cars are only painted from new, they may have cavity wax or stone chip on the bottom but that all breaks and chips after a couple of decades
I quite enjoy helping my wife wax her mini 😮
Lovely job but I would pay someone to do it for me 👀🚘🚙🚗⭐️⭐️⭐️👍👍👍👍
It's a good idea to put a plastic bag over the brakes.
👍🏴
He did exactly that if you actually watch the video
Yipee I'm 4,134th. Matt she's a honey
Bless you Matt, still believes a mask protects against Covid😂
Bless you for not knowing what FFP3 means ;-)
• Protection from poisonous and deleterious kinds of dust, smoke, and aerosols Oncogenic and radioactive substances or pathogens such as viruses, bacteria and fungal spores are filtered by this protective class of respirator masks
• Total leakage may amount to a maximum of 5%
• OEL transgression to the thirtyfold value
Protection class FFP3 respirator masks offer maximum protection from breathing air pollution. The total leakage may amount to a maximum of 5% and they must filter 99% of all particles measuring up to 0.6 μm. This kind of mask also filters poisonous, oncogenic and radioactive particles. Protection class FFP3 masks are used in working environments transgressing the OEL by the thirtyfold industry-specific values. They are often used in the chemistry industry.
@@furiousdriving BUT not Covid as you incorrectly stated. Best get your 5th jab asap.
Next time, just plug the UC cans into your rollie sprayer.
Great work on the undercarriage!Looks so much better.
Don't do it... oh too late.
Them panels looked fine and now it be like having a damp sponge next them all the time.
Just watched hubnut being extremely hubnut 🤓👍 and now extremely furious you've got a light fetish that many youtubers have collecting inspection lamps 🔦
you need lots of light for the cameras to work!