I’d do what I always do, wait for a lul, paddle out, sit way out the back for 4 hours, pretty much paddle back in and then tell everyone that I went surfing and it was huge, I was out there for 4 hours. Nobody asks me about the waves I caught anyway. One day I hope to catch a wave.
The toughest feeling, is having to accept that your about to be in for an awful experience when a set comes in, you can’t go anywhere, you have to just prepare, and staying calm makes the biggest difference.
even body surfing. You get crushed, you're under - for seemingly too long - but you just ride-it-out. For (pro/amateur) Surfers even greater composure. Cuz body surfers don't go into this-kind-of-water.
I feel like I'd rather take an outside reef set from the inside than take an inside reef wave on the head. Only surfed pipe once tho so I can't be positive
The last time I paddled out at Pipe was just over 7 years ago. It was bombing and chunky with a side-offshore chop and Third Reef was washing through to Second a lot. Pretty sketchy. I had to duck under several wide wash-throughs. I was getting under them okay until one dragged me so long I couldn’t hold on to my board any longer. When I came up I found I’d been pushed right into the worst spot possible, just inside the main boil, and turned around just in time to see a proper 8+ Hawaiian First Reefer coil up before detonating right on top of me. It was such a heavy thrashing. My board was obliterated. I came up with just 12-15 inches of tail… and two more waves dropping on me. The current was nuts and I got washed up to Pupes before I made it to shore. Didn’t even get a wave that morning but it’s one of the most memorable sessions I’ve ever had. Spent the rest of the day shooting the swell as it dropped and become more manageable and crowded. Bethany Hamilton was out the whole time waiting patiently for roll-ins out the back. She packed a few meaty ones. The day before was bigger and nuttier. JJF and just a few others gave it a go but not many waves were ridden. John only packed a handful himself before calling it a session. Some of those rides are in his View from a Blue Moon vid. Pipe is wild. She’s the woman you go to for the craziest sex of your life, not to settle down and raise kids with🤣😳Black Widow vibes galore🕷That hourglass means you’ll run out of time if you linger too long⌛️☠️
@@mtnvalley9298 No matter how your session goes out there you’ll always be left with a cool story to tell. It’s the ultimate Shakespearean surf spot. Comedies, dramas, and occasional tragedies (and even horrors), often occurring all at the same time. It’s never a dull moment. Every surfer capable enough to make it out-and even just sit in the channel for a front row seat-needs to experience the place at least once in their lifetime. But it’s as black diamond as it gets so definitely only do so if you really know what you’re doing and you’re in peak physical shape. Nothing is shittier than having people out there who don’t have what it takes and don’t know their limitations.
It's always sketchy to paddle out on a rising north west swell with a short interval especially at Pipe. You can never be sure just how fast the swell's gonna rise or how big it's gonna get. It sucks when you start to see second and third reef wash throughs and the interval is so short that sets start stacking up and you get 10 wave wash throughs really close together with 8 foot lines of whitewater just annihilating surfers and boards. If you get pushed inside where the reef's really shallow you'll get rolled on the reef as the water drains ahead of tons of white water that first steamrolls you and then grates you on the reef like a piece of moldy cheese. Eventually you get pushed to the beach and go home to nurse your pummeled and lacerated body, mourn your broken stick and wait for the swell to start dropping before you even think about ever paddling out on a rising northwest swell again. #PipeGivesYouCracks #LifeOnTheNorthShore
You just described the last time I ever paddled out at Pipe. But instead of a wall of whitewash hitting me inside the boil I took a pitching proper First Reef guillotine right on my noggin for one of the worst floggings of my life. I legit thought I might not make it when I saw that monster rearing up on me. Sadly, my Pipe days are likely over. Had a really nasty disc herniation a few years back. Haven’t surfed more than a handful of days since. Glad I had a pretty proper season that year, tho (2013/14, when Fanning won his third title). It was one of the best Pipe seasons in years.
@al b dough For the disc herniation, you should try this thing called "sit and decompress". I'll start including links in my descriptions for the items I used to keep me in the water. Had a bad herniation this past year as well. Still recovering
@@OffDaLip Thanks!!! I’m always down for good rehab tips🙏🏼🤙🏼 Yeah, it’s brutal. I had no idea how insanely painful it is until it happened to mess. Worse than every fracture, torn ligament, pulled tendons and hammies, concussions, and even worse than the kidney stone I had that made me thinking I was for sure dying😂 The only good thing is that I didn’t/don’t have sciatic pain with it🥲 I have Fanning’s type of scoliosis, which was a contributing factor.
@@shacktime I feel ya bro'! I got pitched once when the wave jacked just as I was poppin' up. I got pitched with the lip, free fell and faceplanted the reef when the lip hit me on the back of the head. I hit the reef so hard with my face that, as I was surfacing, I started feeling my face convinced that I had broken some facial bones. Luckily I face planted a flat spot in the reef so I didn't break any facial bones or lose any teeth but I did have a nice hole punch in my upper lip. I guess that's the price you pay for loving big, hollow barrels, LOL 😛🤙
@@lachella87 watch closely, as he is dropping in, some Gumby is in his way and the goober can't even duck dive to avoid.. when a surfer or whoever takes off, get out of the way and treat them as if they're Kelly Slater or Mike Stewart.. how would you like it if you can't perform to the utmost best ability on that 🌊 wave, ol skool would've took 'em in to punch on or just decked 'em out in the line up?.. I see this so often in crowded spots, especially Kirra, Snapper rocks in QLD Australia, popular surf breaks.. absolutely disgraceful and awful - if any of these lad's had Jesus Christ Almighty, they'd never ever be like that.. experience is crucial too! So simple, paddle in the channel or just get out of the way!
The best thing about a clean-up set like this is watching it from the shore and feeling the pure relief from knowing you’re dodging getting worked…This time anyways!
The first two waves after the big roller are the worst. I had a similar scenario surfing a large powerful swell recently. I caught a bomb, then jumped off when it closed out. Then proceeded to dive under the next 5 or so waves. The worst hold down happened on the rear end of the set, when I was all ready out of breath. The wave shot me straight to the boulders, no escaping that. After the wave finally went over, and a long swim to the surface, I was gasping for air, then had to dive under the next few waves. Took me quite a while to get my breath back. Good times
....and I struggle with little waves that reach my waist while standing a couple feet into the water at the shoreline here in Nova Scotia, Canada LOL.....much respect to these brave athletes!
just here to remind myself that the clean up we got at pyramid yesterday could've been way worse. buddy lost his board and we both paddled in on mine, looking over our heads praying the set was over. I dunno how much "young n dumb" factor I have left in me to continue working my way up to surfing pipeline one day
Where I’m at we get 6 foot waves on a good day and although it may not sound like much but I still struggle paddling out. This is insane... I wouldn’t make it. Salute!
As an old surfer from the 80’s. This many surfers in one spot rarely happened. We didn’t have web cameras or cell phones to look at and see what spot had the best waves. We had to load up a 60 Volkswagen van and drive up or down the coast looking at each spot and decide to jump in. Never knowing if the next spot was better.
Was still like that about 10 years ago. At least in Portugal. Until the championships came through, even then there was some spots. But then Nazare happened. That was it. Used to be able to surf supertubus, (the spot where the guy blew an eardrum) with no more than 10 people. Now you could literally walk out to the lineup on people. It's why I'm always super respectful of locals when I surf in new spots I don't know. I get the pain of having your local spot swamped by tourists....
Yeah this looks absolutely miserable compared to what you’re describing. It’s like butters ‘native’ ancestors took over and ruined a beautiful place. Classic
WOW, that looks like suicide mission 🌊 specially with all the other 🏄♀️ in the water. My respect to the lifestyle of catching that wave.Greeting from USA 🇺🇸. Thanks for sharing great video.
The scariest thing I ever encountered on the North Shore was scratching up the face at Waimea and starting to slide backwards. Throw your gun over the top and let the wind take it. Roll in a ball and the hold down, say to yourself relax. Come up dizzy and get set for the next hold down. Get out of the shore break was always fun too. 3rd reef Pipe was just to insane to even paddle out. 2nd reef look for the boil and get there. I have hit boards in the tube and it usually chopped off half the fin or broke the board never never the whole fin. 1970s was the best to be there.
I did in ‘69 pumping at 8-12. Just finished the new copy of Surfer and one of the tips was to keep your eyes open when held down so you which way is up. Ha! Of course you know up from down. Some guy on the shoulder was dropping in on me so I went backdoor and was locked in good. Suddenly the wave heaved and I felt my board hit my head. I was slowly letting air out when I bumped my head on the coral. No air at the bottom and finally opening my eyes, saw the surface so far away and when I broke the surface couldn’t get a breath of pure air with the foam a foot thick. Lungs choking with salty air, and the next wave just about to crash down on me, dive down with half a breath of air and yeah, my life didn’t flash before me but I was thinking of all the things this 15 year old would miss. I thought I would die. Keep your eyes open in the water after wiping out unless you know which way is which in a washing machine.
Awesome just an idea every vid is about riding would be awesome a vid of guys paddleing out with a drone shot as well as a land shot to show the real beat downs and guys getting washed out call it when Pipe Wins. For the guys who cant make it out
I paddled out in similar conditions, I was 10 years younger though. All the bull crap and the beating you take is worth it when you finally get in the perfect spot in the lineup and take that beautiful drop have brought the perfect wave!
@@OffDaLip absolutely! I will still remember that ride when I'm old and senile! Back then, I was fearless, but in all honesty I think I'd take that paddle again. I honestly can't describe that feeling to someone who's never surfed. My wife looks at me dumbfounded, but she understands that I'm passionate about it and have been since we were little kids. I looked up and married my best friend that I've known my whole life, don't know how we went off to this side of the conversation but it really helps. I really hate being stuck in Nashville right now, while she doesn't understand it she is supportive. Fortunately I travel enough to get a few good sessions in throughout the year!
Ho bruddah, once again more donuts than all the sweets at Ted's bakery !! Not for me, rule numba1 " when in doubt, don't paddle out. " Nuts to think about everybody crashing into one another when that set washed through. Great footage🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
Had an experience some time back that scared the crap out of me, now I struggle mentally with anything over 5ft. Sucks, but with time I’ll get my courage back.
Still awed at 52yo, nothing like it. 1994 was my first paddle out...I still remember going to country from town. I could hear the trains from the pineapple fields. When the sun came up, my jaw dropped. AND IT WAS ONLY 2-5FT...LOL
I tried surfing a few times, just not my thing, but seeing this shit seems you gotta be an advanced intermediate to expert level surfer to go out in that and be effective. Good stuff
Most times 3 wash through put you right into the impact zone. Then you have to duck dive 8-10ft white wash barrels. The current pulls you into the worst spot.
@@OffDaLipjust remember who came up with the idea LOL I make wraps and my name is Justin Williams I can come up with some pretty clever ideas you would have to have something more compact to scuba dive with surfing it's not necessarily that you're scuba diving but it would be safer for big waves in case you go under and you're under for too long you would have some sort of mask and helmet or something that's compact and not in your vision and not heavy but a short supply of air to help your chances of survival but you're free to use that idea if you'd like I would be thrilled to know that it was invented and just say hey some schmuck off the internet thought of it and make money I don't care I'm in Pittsburgh Pennsylvania I'm far from the beach and no money to invent or patent anything
Pipe is no joke. I have been fortunate enough to watch from the shore plenty of times. I know my limits and I'm not good enough to be in that line up on huge days. Thanks for the video. #eddiewouldgo
Not at pipe, and not as high, but then I’m pretty much an intermediate-level surfer. I will always remember the first time I got caught inside with a cleanup set and wasn’t cool, calm and prepared. I didn’t get a big enough breath, and when I got drilled, I thought I was gonna drown. But then I surfaced just before I blacked out-just in time to grab a gulp of air for the next wave to drill me. When I finally got back to the beach, I was exhausted and my brain felt like a pin cushion. I just lay down on my towel and gained a huge amount of awe and respect for the waves. Peace.
Getting held down by a huge wave is one of the worst things, especially the first time it happens. Eventually you can get used to it, but it still sucks lol 🤙
@@MyGoogleRUclips Im not a surfer as I grew up in the West Virginia mountains but Id say no on pfds. Only whitewater rafters and guides use those it seems. I grew up around raft guides and teaching snowboarding in the winters so Im not sure why pfds would impede proper surfing🤷🏼♂️
That moment when you look up and see a huge wall of water bearing down on you and you know that you are about to get hammered. I had an experience with waves coming in like that after coming off I couldn’t get back onto my board as the waves just coming without a break then as I was about to go under again a hand grabbed me and a voice said I’ve got you. That surfer who saved me that day was my Guardian Angel if wasn’t for him I wouldn’t be writing this as that the surf was eating surfboards for breakfast and a fair bit of blood was spilled it was totally insane but boy what a rush it was.
@@OffDaLip I was surfing at Manly Beach here in Sydney and it’s a good few years now since that day and I thought I was a goner for sure if it hadn’t been for that surfer . The waves were huge and really slapping and hammering surfers all over the shop, one bloke got a good ride on a wave and then he tried to cut back onto the other side but the wave slapped him and his board a good few feet in the air , it was a crazy day
Pipeline is heavy as it gets and can be very crowded when it’s firing. Definitely a critical beat down on a clean up set! Even the best surfers suffer serious consequences.
I was a decent competitive surfer but then as now, I never enjoyed waves that were about "survival" Head high or so has always been fun, although I've ridden a FEW in some big stuff, Hawaii and elsewhere. Love watching the crazies who ride Nazere thoug
When I was in the service, I tried surfing once. I headed out with a friend's board... never made it past the break... ended up almost a mile down the beach. So I decided to have a beer.
Oh course I’m paddling out….and timing is everything at the pipe with the tide and NW swell…I am always the one sitting far outside waiting for the clean up set to roll in and “charge um bradduh 😉
Whoa...to quote the famous line spoken by Jeff Spicoli; "surfing's not a sport, it's a way of life, it's no hobby. It's a way of looking at that wave and saying, "Hey bud, let's party!"
Yeah, stared at the church and kept paddling until the freak sets died down. Was the first time I understood how people just fatigue and go down. Whole time I was just praying to Eddie to get me out of there alive haha. Sweet videos btw bradda.
Thx Beautiful day, Too short. I could have watched that all day, Following the boils. At around 26 second the guy gets kinda snaked, but they wave in respect. Rare... on film
I'd love to have David Attenborough provide a voice-over--"And the human surfers, driven by some inexplicable urge for self-destruction, bob about like pieces of hapless driftwood, alternately paddling furiously toward the gruesome fate which awaits them". 🤣
Well considering that while on vacation, I was picked up & literally thrown into the beach at the North Shore in Hawaii, my answer is a resounding HELL to the NAW!!! In fact, I think that these people are either extremely brave or totally MAD!!!
I'd be more worried of some fool coming over the top hitting me w his tail. Huricane Gloria hit NJ we tied up boards, headed to the inlet. Surfs up dude !
I’d do what I always do, wait for a lul, paddle out, sit way out the back for 4 hours, pretty much paddle back in and then tell everyone that I went surfing and it was huge, I was out there for 4 hours. Nobody asks me about the waves I caught anyway. One day I hope to catch a wave.
Whenever i do that i get para im gonna get caught in a bad rip and get dragged out lol
hahaha. Don't worry, secret's safe in the youtube comments lol
If that ain’t me
@@leecarterreppinjesuschrist7686 ahhh rips don’t go that far out, just go with it and then paddle left or right, and then back in lol 😂
Haha that’s me in Waikiki! Not because of the size of the surf but because the crowds are intense and I hate confrontation.
Getting worked in the wash machine is one thing, doing it within twenty other folks is just crazy underwater mayhem. Salute to all.
Twenty? Try 60-80.
Twenty is the number of regulars out there who will beat the piss out of you if you screw up, which is REALLY easy to do out there.
Yup, getting tangled up with a bunch of other dudes when a huge wall of water is coming your way. And it's only 7am. No coffee needed lol
@@OffDaLip Tamayo Perry knows this all too well😖🤕
He said 20 lolz
@@shacktime YOu surfers still play the tuff guy role?
The toughest feeling, is having to accept that your about to be in for an awful experience when a set comes in, you can’t go anywhere, you have to just prepare, and staying calm makes the biggest difference.
Yup, just gotta accept the inevitable
it's always about not-panicking.
even body surfing. You get crushed, you're under -
for seemingly too long - but you just ride-it-out. For
(pro/amateur) Surfers even greater composure. Cuz
body surfers don't go into this-kind-of-water.
I feel like I'd rather take an outside reef set from the inside than take an inside reef wave on the head. Only surfed pipe once tho so I can't be positive
,
The last time I paddled out at Pipe was just over 7 years ago. It was bombing and chunky with a side-offshore chop and Third Reef was washing through to Second a lot. Pretty sketchy. I had to duck under several wide wash-throughs. I was getting under them okay until one dragged me so long I couldn’t hold on to my board any longer. When I came up I found I’d been pushed right into the worst spot possible, just inside the main boil, and turned around just in time to see a proper 8+ Hawaiian First Reefer coil up before detonating right on top of me. It was such a heavy thrashing. My board was obliterated. I came up with just 12-15 inches of tail… and two more waves dropping on me. The current was nuts and I got washed up to Pupes before I made it to shore. Didn’t even get a wave that morning but it’s one of the most memorable sessions I’ve ever had.
Spent the rest of the day shooting the swell as it dropped and become more manageable and crowded. Bethany Hamilton was out the whole time waiting patiently for roll-ins out the back. She packed a few meaty ones.
The day before was bigger and nuttier. JJF and just a few others gave it a go but not many waves were ridden. John only packed a handful himself before calling it a session. Some of those rides are in his View from a Blue Moon vid.
Pipe is wild. She’s the woman you go to for the craziest sex of your life, not to settle down and raise kids with🤣😳Black Widow vibes galore🕷That hourglass means you’ll run out of time if you linger too long⌛️☠️
I’d give her the best 30 seconds of her life 😂🤙🏼
Craziest sex - Black Widow galore fucking classic 😂😂😂
good read thx
@@cory_hugs7850 🤣😂🤤🥴
Careful. She’s the gnarliest squirter around💦
A real spitting viper, that one🐍🤣😳😬
@@mtnvalley9298 No matter how your session goes out there you’ll always be left with a cool story to tell. It’s the ultimate Shakespearean surf spot. Comedies, dramas, and occasional tragedies (and even horrors), often occurring all at the same time. It’s never a dull moment.
Every surfer capable enough to make it out-and even just sit in the channel for a front row seat-needs to experience the place at least once in their lifetime. But it’s as black diamond as it gets so definitely only do so if you really know what you’re doing and you’re in peak physical shape. Nothing is shittier than having people out there who don’t have what it takes and don’t know their limitations.
It's always sketchy to paddle out on a rising north west swell with a short interval especially at Pipe.
You can never be sure just how fast the swell's gonna rise or how big it's gonna get.
It sucks when you start to see second and third reef wash throughs and the interval is so short that sets start stacking up and you get 10 wave wash throughs really close together with 8 foot lines of whitewater just annihilating surfers and boards.
If you get pushed inside where the reef's really shallow you'll get rolled on the reef as the water drains ahead of tons of white water that first steamrolls you and then grates you on the reef like a piece of moldy cheese.
Eventually you get pushed to the beach and go home to nurse your pummeled and lacerated body, mourn your broken stick and wait for the swell to start dropping before you even think about ever paddling out on a rising northwest swell again.
#PipeGivesYouCracks
#LifeOnTheNorthShore
You just described the last time I ever paddled out at Pipe. But instead of a wall of whitewash hitting me inside the boil I took a pitching proper First Reef guillotine right on my noggin for one of the worst floggings of my life. I legit thought I might not make it when I saw that monster rearing up on me.
Sadly, my Pipe days are likely over. Had a really nasty disc herniation a few years back. Haven’t surfed more than a handful of days since. Glad I had a pretty proper season that year, tho (2013/14, when Fanning won his third title). It was one of the best Pipe seasons in years.
@al b dough For the disc herniation, you should try this thing called "sit and decompress". I'll start including links in my descriptions for the items I used to keep me in the water. Had a bad herniation this past year as well. Still recovering
@@OffDaLip Thanks!!! I’m always down for good rehab tips🙏🏼🤙🏼
Yeah, it’s brutal. I had no idea how insanely painful it is until it happened to mess. Worse than every fracture, torn ligament, pulled tendons and hammies, concussions, and even worse than the kidney stone I had that made me thinking I was for sure dying😂
The only good thing is that I didn’t/don’t have sciatic pain with it🥲
I have Fanning’s type of scoliosis, which was a contributing factor.
@@shacktime I feel ya bro'! I got pitched once when the wave jacked just as I was poppin' up.
I got pitched with the lip, free fell and faceplanted the reef when the lip hit me on the back of the head.
I hit the reef so hard with my face that, as I was surfacing, I started feeling my face convinced that I had broken some facial bones. Luckily I face planted a flat spot in the reef so I didn't break any facial bones or lose any teeth but I did have a nice hole punch in my upper lip.
I guess that's the price you pay for loving big, hollow barrels, LOL 😛🤙
The haoles that don't know what they're doing is more sketchy.
Much respect for the guy dropping in at :31 seconds. He could have straightened out but tucked in and took his lumps but got tubed.
Yeah in triple overhead + over reef that’s pretty gutsy
He kinda barned it
Would have made it if he didn't cook his bottom turn
@@lachella87 watch closely, as he is dropping in, some Gumby is in his way and the goober can't even duck dive to avoid.. when a surfer or whoever takes off, get out of the way and treat them as if they're Kelly Slater or Mike Stewart.. how would you like it if you can't perform to the utmost best ability on that 🌊 wave, ol skool would've took 'em in to punch on or just decked 'em out in the line up?.. I see this so often in crowded spots, especially Kirra, Snapper rocks in QLD Australia, popular surf breaks.. absolutely disgraceful and awful - if any of these lad's had Jesus Christ Almighty, they'd never ever be like that.. experience is crucial too! So simple, paddle in the channel or just get out of the way!
Looked like he roofed it to me, barely got pitted
The best thing about a clean-up set like this is watching it from the shore and feeling the pure relief from knowing you’re dodging getting worked…This time anyways!
Yup 🤙🤙🤙
The first two waves after the big roller are the worst. I had a similar scenario surfing a large powerful swell recently. I caught a bomb, then jumped off when it closed out. Then proceeded to dive under the next 5 or so waves. The worst hold down happened on the rear end of the set, when I was all ready out of breath. The wave shot me straight to the boulders, no escaping that. After the wave finally went over, and a long swim to the surface, I was gasping for air, then had to dive under the next few waves. Took me quite a while to get my breath back. Good times
Sounds like the boneyard under SRF next to Swamis in North Sandy Eggo county
@@robertchiarizia9463 Full of Sups. 😉
Wow.....
@@robertchiarizia9463 that mighta been where I thought I was swimmin up, when really, I was swimmin down! Bad end of the day, great before that!
Probably what happened to Todd Chesser,but he couldn't surface.
A superb athlete,but when mother ocean wants you cie la vie.
....and I struggle with little waves that reach my waist while standing a couple feet into the water at the shoreline here in Nova Scotia, Canada LOL.....much respect to these brave athletes!
Thanks for watchin 🤙
Just keep going out there, a bit further, little by little...never give up and you'll be surfing 🙂
just here to remind myself that the clean up we got at pyramid yesterday could've been way worse. buddy lost his board and we both paddled in on mine, looking over our heads praying the set was over. I dunno how much "young n dumb" factor I have left in me to continue working my way up to surfing pipeline one day
A reminder to pick your days!
Where I’m at we get 6 foot waves on a good day and although it may not sound like much but I still struggle paddling out. This is insane... I wouldn’t make it. Salute!
Yea, this is so heavy 🤙
been there a few times at Sunset when that freak west bowl comes out of nowhere...paddle like a MF haha
As an old surfer from the 80’s. This many surfers in one spot rarely happened. We didn’t have web cameras or cell phones to look at and see what spot had the best waves. We had to load up a 60 Volkswagen van and drive up or down the coast looking at each spot and decide to jump in. Never knowing if the next spot was better.
The times have drastically changed 🤙
Definitely better times back then
Was still like that about 10 years ago. At least in Portugal. Until the championships came through, even then there was some spots. But then Nazare happened. That was it. Used to be able to surf supertubus, (the spot where the guy blew an eardrum) with no more than 10 people. Now you could literally walk out to the lineup on people. It's why I'm always super respectful of locals when I surf in new spots I don't know. I get the pain of having your local spot swamped by tourists....
Yeah this looks absolutely miserable compared to what you’re describing. It’s like butters ‘native’ ancestors took over and ruined a beautiful place. Classic
Cool story ol head
Awesome! The guy who had a great ride and then surfed off the top (2:02) was the bomb!
WOW, that looks like suicide mission 🌊 specially with all the other 🏄♀️ in the water. My respect to the lifestyle of catching that wave.Greeting from USA 🇺🇸. Thanks for sharing great video.
Thanks for watchin 🤙
Haha emoji man 👨
The scariest thing I ever encountered on the North Shore was scratching up the face at Waimea and starting to slide backwards. Throw your gun over the top and let the wind take it. Roll in a ball and the hold down, say to yourself relax. Come up dizzy and get set for the next hold down. Get out of the shore break was always fun too. 3rd reef Pipe was just to insane to even paddle out. 2nd reef look for the boil and get there. I have hit boards in the tube and it usually chopped off half the fin or broke the board never never the whole fin. 1970s was the best to be there.
Sounds like you were kind of a hellman. Thanks for sharing those crazy stories 🤙
The sets appear to be on fast forward mode...
Goodness...
Skill and guts in equal measure...
🇿🇦
I did in ‘69 pumping at 8-12.
Just finished the new copy of Surfer and one of the tips was to keep your eyes open when held down so you which way is up.
Ha! Of course you know up from down.
Some guy on the shoulder was dropping in on me so I went backdoor and was locked in good. Suddenly the wave heaved and I felt my board hit my head. I was slowly letting air out when I bumped my head on the coral. No air at the bottom and finally opening my eyes, saw the surface so far away and when I broke the surface couldn’t get a breath of pure air with the foam a foot thick. Lungs choking with salty air, and the next wave just about to crash down on me, dive down with half a breath of air and yeah, my life didn’t flash before me but I was thinking of all the things this 15 year old would miss.
I thought I would die.
Keep your eyes open in the water after wiping out unless you know which way is which in a washing machine.
Wow, dudes got punished with that set. Feels like thunder on the beach.
Awesome just an idea every vid is about riding would be awesome a vid of guys paddleing out with a drone shot as well as a land shot to show the real beat downs and guys getting washed out call it when Pipe Wins. For the guys who cant make it out
Yup, very cool ideas. Showing the other aspects of surfing 🤙
Please more vídeos of Huge sets!!!
Definitely. Thanks for watching as always!
no, don´t encourage death
HEAVY! And no, I wouldn’t paddle out. Much respect. Thank you!)
I would never think of venturing out in those huge waves for fear of my life!
you and me both 🤙
Keeps attracting viewers. Great video!!
I paddled out in similar conditions, I was 10 years younger though. All the bull crap and the beating you take is worth it when you finally get in the perfect spot in the lineup and take that beautiful drop have brought the perfect wave!
A ride you'll never forget 🤙
@@OffDaLip absolutely! I will still remember that ride when I'm old and senile! Back then, I was fearless, but in all honesty I think I'd take that paddle again. I honestly can't describe that feeling to someone who's never surfed. My wife looks at me dumbfounded, but she understands that I'm passionate about it and have been since we were little kids. I looked up and married my best friend that I've known my whole life, don't know how we went off to this side of the conversation but it really helps. I really hate being stuck in Nashville right now, while she doesn't understand it she is supportive. Fortunately I travel enough to get a few good sessions in throughout the year!
Waves were so close together. Never one second to chill. Better be in shape. Brutal
Well said 🤙
Ho bruddah, once again more donuts than all the sweets at Ted's bakery !! Not for me, rule numba1 " when in doubt, don't paddle out. " Nuts to think about everybody crashing into one another when that set washed through. Great footage🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
All those guys getting washed around deserve some Ted's Bakery after that lol. Thanks braddah 🤙
Had an experience some time back that scared the crap out of me, now I struggle mentally with anything over 5ft. Sucks, but with time I’ll get my courage back.
Just gotta take it slow 🤙
We know it's a workout when a big set comes in.
The warriors of the Sea ... Shall Be Back for Another Day. Much RESPECT 🤠🤙
haha, they'll never stop. Thanks for watching 🤙🤙
the sets never stop
I know fuck all about surfing but I have mad respect for anyone who goes out in seas and gets after it, especially these folks 👏🏻
Definitely 🤙
Dude catches some serious air at 2:00. I don’t know much about surfing but never really seen anyone catch air like that
Harry Bryant. He's known for doing crazy stuff above the lip 🤙
Still awed at 52yo, nothing like it.
1994 was my first paddle out...I still remember going to country from town. I could hear the trains from the pineapple fields. When the sun came up, my jaw dropped. AND IT WAS ONLY 2-5FT...LOL
hahaha, that size still can pack a punch 🤙
I tried surfing a few times, just not my thing, but seeing this shit seems you gotta be an advanced intermediate to expert level surfer to go out in that and be effective. Good stuff
Advanced for sure and athletic. No weekend warrior stuff out there. That’s the NFL of surfing.
North Shore is elite level. Rookies will drown out there.
@@charliedillon1400 So true, they wouldn’t even make it out, but would get drowned in the current…
I love surfing but this is where I draw the line
agreed 🤙🤙🤙
No wouldn’t paddle out even when I was 20 years younger, much respect - done Trestles double overhead, as far as I’ll go… 😁😁
I feel this deeply in my bones. Paddling out on Big Weds ‘07 is nothing compared to pipe. I get chills thinking of that impossible duck dive
Most times 3 wash through put you right into the impact zone. Then you have to duck dive 8-10ft white wash barrels. The current pulls you into the worst spot.
Yup, nothing good comes from this lol
Exactly why I've fished for 50 years!! Only 2 sneaker waves have got me in all that time on the water!!!
😂😂😂 If I had to choose between Pipe Armageddon sets and fishing, I'd choose fishing all day haha
Sweet!!!
Keep up the awesome work ODL!!!
will do, thanks braddah 🤙
Those waves are cray. I wouldn't be surfing without Scooba gear a helmet ⛑️
hahaha. Big wave surfing with scuba gear. Rather innovative 🤙
@@OffDaLipjust remember who came up with the idea LOL I make wraps and my name is Justin Williams I can come up with some pretty clever ideas you would have to have something more compact to scuba dive with surfing it's not necessarily that you're scuba diving but it would be safer for big waves in case you go under and you're under for too long you would have some sort of mask and helmet or something that's compact and not in your vision and not heavy but a short supply of air to help your chances of survival but you're free to use that idea if you'd like I would be thrilled to know that it was invented and just say hey some schmuck off the internet thought of it and make money I don't care I'm in Pittsburgh Pennsylvania I'm far from the beach and no money to invent or patent anything
Pipe is no joke. I have been fortunate enough to watch from the shore plenty of times. I know my limits and I'm not good enough to be in that line up on huge days. Thanks for the video. #eddiewouldgo
Just watching from shore is an adrenaline rush in itself 🤙
Not at pipe, and not as high, but then I’m pretty much an intermediate-level surfer. I will always remember the first time I got caught inside with a cleanup set and wasn’t cool, calm and prepared. I didn’t get a big enough breath, and when I got drilled, I thought I was gonna drown. But then I surfaced just before I blacked out-just in time to grab a gulp of air for the next wave to drill me. When I finally got back to the beach, I was exhausted and my brain felt like a pin cushion. I just lay down on my towel and gained a huge amount of awe and respect for the waves. Peace.
Getting held down by a huge wave is one of the worst things, especially the first time it happens. Eventually you can get used to it, but it still sucks lol 🤙
At any point do surfers wear inflatable pfds?
@@MyGoogleRUclips Im not a surfer as I grew up in the West Virginia mountains but Id say no on pfds. Only whitewater rafters and guides use those it seems. I grew up around raft guides and teaching snowboarding in the winters so Im not sure why pfds would impede proper surfing🤷🏼♂️
that last minute "i dont think I can duck dive this" bail at 2:06
Yup, one of those "i got this, i got this, nevermind"
That moment when you look up and see a huge wall of water bearing down on you and you know that you are about to get hammered.
I had an experience with waves coming in like that after coming off I couldn’t get back onto my board as the waves just coming without a break then as I was about to go under again a hand grabbed me and a voice said I’ve got you.
That surfer who saved me that day was my Guardian Angel if wasn’t for him I wouldn’t be writing this as that the surf was eating surfboards for breakfast and a fair bit of blood was spilled it was totally insane but boy what a rush it was.
Wow, crazy story...Where were you surfing?
@@OffDaLip I was surfing at Manly Beach here in Sydney and it’s a good few years now since that day and I thought I was a goner for sure if it hadn’t been for that surfer .
The waves were huge and really slapping and hammering surfers all over the shop, one bloke got a good ride on a wave and then he tried to cut back onto the other side but the wave slapped him and his board a good few feet in the air , it was a crazy day
Old mate on that green board got pumped
That's a proper workout! Mentally and physically.
100%
If I paddled out, I would probably die from fright 😆
haha. Same 🤙
That was brutal. Tasty waves come at a cost.
gotta pay to play 🤙
I am so stressed out now. Thank you.
Hahaha 🤙
Pipeline is heavy as it gets and can be very crowded when it’s firing. Definitely a critical beat down on a clean up set! Even the best surfers suffer serious consequences.
True. Even the most seasoned vets aren't safe
Man it's been pumping...great footage brudda.
Crazy run of swell. Thanks braddah 🤙
HERO takes the ride of his life @ 2:00
I was a decent competitive surfer but then as now, I never enjoyed waves that were about "survival" Head high or so has always been fun, although I've ridden a FEW in some big stuff, Hawaii and elsewhere. Love watching the crazies who ride Nazere thoug
Mad respect to the adrenaline junkies. Once you get that fix, you gotta keep goin back for more 🤙
I can barley make it to the other end of the pool with gasping for air. What do you think?
Haha, you can talk story on the beach with me then 🤙🤙🤙
From the comforts of my couch- YES!
Standing on that Beach- Heck No!
Same 😂
Wow.This is the wave!!Awesome))
Thanks for watching 🤙
That air at 2:03 👏
More like 2:00
harry bryant
When I was in the service, I tried surfing once. I headed out with a friend's board... never made it past the break... ended up almost a mile down the beach. So I decided to have a beer.
Nothing like a beer after a surf 🍻
Shoots, brah- Eddie would go!!!
Oh course I’m paddling out….and timing is everything at the pipe with the tide and NW swell…I am always the one sitting far outside waiting for the clean up set to roll in and “charge um bradduh 😉
yewwwwww Rush 'em! 🤙
Zoo. Wear you out fast. Lucky to get 1 outside set. Before you get runover
🤙🤙🤙
I’ve been out 2nd choke times! Still scares me. My heart skips a beat. I also trip out on those few chargers that are not afraid!!
Yea, don't know how they do it 🤙
They are afraid i assure you, But they have mastered their fear and believe in their skill and their ability to do it.
great example of why I don't paddle pipe when I go to the north shore.....I'll stick to Chuns and Laniakea, thanks :)
Buzzy kerbox and laird Hamilton used to go snorkeling in this small stuff
"You will never make it to the line up unless you duck dive." "Duck dive?"
😂😂😂 Classic line
It’s called the clean up Sets . Weather it’s 20 minutes apart or 5 minutes apart depends on the tides
Whoa...to quote the famous line spoken by Jeff Spicoli; "surfing's not a sport, it's a way of life, it's no hobby. It's a way of looking at that wave and saying, "Hey bud, let's party!"
Amen 🤙
Happened to me at Waimea. Went from church side to rock side in a matter of minutes. Shit was nuts.
I've heard some heavy stories about that current. You make it out alright?
Yeah, stared at the church and kept paddling until the freak sets died down. Was the first time I understood how people just fatigue and go down. Whole time I was just praying to Eddie to get me out of there alive haha. Sweet videos btw bradda.
Amen brother. The waves tend to come in both sides and produces a strong rip current right out the middle.
One Year Later: I had a day like that... and 40 years later I'll never forget it. Closest I ever came to death, so far!
da pipe is no joke....its a mythical monster that administers love joy and heartache..
With no discrimination 🤙
@@OffDaLip soooo true
Amazing footage again!
Mahalos 🤙
It's like watching a bunch of 🐧 milling around on the ice.
Wonder how many got ran over… or is it surfed over?
"ran over" is the correct terminology 🤙
Jeez it’s consistent
Big rising swell 🤙
NOOO WAY!!!! Too Crowded!
2nd Reef Pipe : "Would you Paddle Out ?" Hold my beer.
Hold my keg 😂
The ocean laughs at your swimming abilities.
Mother Nature reigns supreme
The strongest, fittest athletes in the world, having their asses handed to them. Normal mortals would not survive this.
No. No we would not 🤙
Surfing Pipe on a 6ft day is scary . Shallow reef 😳
Hell no! Not at this point in my life. When I was in my 20s and surfing every day. Yes. Would I have gotten a wave from the peak? Probably not
Thx Beautiful day, Too short. I could have watched that all day, Following the boils. At around 26 second the guy gets kinda snaked, but they wave in respect. Rare... on film
Looks like I saw a big dorsal fin in the mix! Double trouble.
Yea, that's all you'd need right then 🤙
Having been rolled by clean up sets there much smaller than these, this video made me sweat! Lol
haha, if you've actually been out in something like this, the video is a lot more scary lol 🤙
@@OffDaLip definitely not this big, and it was full on rinse cycle. If you know, you know. Respect to these guys
I'd love to have David Attenborough provide a voice-over--"And the human surfers, driven by some inexplicable urge for self-destruction, bob about like pieces of hapless driftwood, alternately paddling furiously toward the gruesome fate which awaits them". 🤣
You just gave me an idea 😂
Well considering that while on vacation, I was picked up & literally thrown into the beach at the North Shore in Hawaii, my answer is a resounding HELL to the NAW!!! In fact, I think that these people are either extremely brave or totally MAD!!!
Most powerful waves in the world. And also the most mad surfers in the world 🤙
Even fish are like, "I think ima gonna sit-this-one-out."
😂😂😂
Surfing is the most awesome sport!
hands down 🤙
No, no and NO. These guys are a different breed.
Well said 🤙
I know the feeling. Sheer survival instincts.
Florida surfers be dreaming of these waves!
Pretty much the whole world does 🤙
Lots of cartwheels out there. I give it 9 and a half on the pucker scale.
😂😂😂
I remember my first time paddling out on an 8 ft day in Escondido. Was exhausting…can’t imagine what a big day at Pipeline is like…😂
Yup, the power is something that can't be translated through the screen
Did green board ever make it out of the inside?
A great surfer indeed 🤙
worked!!! that was brutal!!
those are the best ones
Now I know WHY: i.e. Surfers are in such incredible shape.
--it's all Cardio.
Yup, tons of cardio
I'd be more worried of some fool coming over the top hitting me w his tail. Huricane Gloria hit NJ we tied up boards, headed to the inlet. Surfs up dude !
Yewww! get some 🤙🤙🤙Thanks for watching
Be smart. Surf when it's safe. Don't play with God. He always wins.🏄♂️😵
Words to live by 🤙
It's like a frickin' Walmart out there..
liquid black friday lol