New! Geberit 2x4 System
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- Опубликовано: 3 мар 2016
- Installing the new Geberit in-wall toilet system for 2x4 construction.
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Favorite part was shaking out the 2x slug!
I wish my hole saw worked like that!
Cool beans...nice vid..hope it doesn’t need service...best I have seen...
Now I want one!!
Is there a gasket available to use with a regular 4" no hub elbow to drain the toilet? I couldn't vent from below, so I managed to fit a low heel elbow to drain and vent the toilet from in the wall.
When I install the carriage I do not cut the studs like the videos shows. I do put a top horizontal 2x4 and install pressure blocks to the adjacent studs horizontal. Just my take especially if this were a load barring wall woukd not pass inspection.
Love animation like this😍
@Lorenzo Chase spierdalaj
@Kamryn Hector ty tez spierdalaj
This animation is ridiculous! Award winning! Look at the friggin water flush effect! I'm blown away. Go work for Pixar!!
You did put on the Teflon tape backwards though ;)
Much better than the version I installed in 2003.
what was different about that version?
Slick graphics. Slight error: Wrap the sealing tape the other direction lest it tend to unwrap itself upon assembly.
It is pretty an all but not sure if i would want that much of the system in the wall. Seems like everything that might breakdown is in the wall.
Super !
also, very helpful video :) answered my question!
zwi
Play back speed X 2...you’re welcome ✌🏻🇺🇸
Hello and does the product available in Saudi Arabia!?
Which type ,or Serial nummer ,up 720 or....?
Wow! Def going to check into this.
So how is the waste water pipe connected? Do you have to rip up the flooring?
No most pipes will go to the basement so just cut it there and make a new one to that wall
So after installing the control panel buttons the toilet magically mounts it's self??? You showed everything else. As a contractor who was interested, I really wanted to see how the toilet attached to the supply/waste lines and how it was mounted. Everything else was pretty standard. And showing the underside of the toilet would had helped.
In a few years when we come out to repair or replace the vessel we'll make around $8,000. It's no different than the car manufacturers putting a water pump hidden behind the camshaft belt. Engineers think their crap is going to last a lifetime. The question is - Who's lifetime? LOL..
Rest assures: We engineers know exactly how bad an idea this is, but when the boss man tells you to make a toilet inside a wall because it looks pretty, your hands are kinda tied.
@@Ruffhouse789 I understand. Make the boss happy and keep the check coming in. We gotta eat...... Take care
All parts are serviceable without tearing open anything. Geberit products last very long, and all parts are available, even after 30 years or more. Geberit is THE standard here in Germany.
Nostra Dumbass . All except the fittings that supply the water into the unit. There is no way to access it being inside the wall. I like these toilets but, if I was going to install one there would be an access panel behind that wall so repairs could be made in an emergency. I do the same thing at mixing valves in showers. Those Teflon tape connections don't last forever.
@@ronniestanley75 Yep and save a copy of this install video, since you'll be like, how'd I install that again? I'd probably use magnets to hold the wallboard in place... maybe some wainscotting so it wouldn't be noticeable when I pull it off.
Lovely
Why wouldn’t you shot the part about fitting the bowl like TOTO does? You got bits and pieces between 3 different videos and are still missing measuring and cutting of connecting pipes in all 3….. and then the stud measuring part is only in printed durafix manual.
I had to follow TOTO video to figure out what I’m supposed to do.
Two MAJOR omissions which are conspicuously absent from both this official installation video and the official paper instructions that accompany the carrier designed for 2x4 walls are the following:
First, while it's true that a 3.5" diameter hole (the O.D. of 3" Sch 40 PVC is 3.5") bored through the bottom plate of a nominally-dimensioned 2x4 wall (if possible, install the carrier in a wall framed with "native" or "rough" dimensioned 2x4 material - keep reading for why - plenty of walls that meet this spec east of the Mississippi) - will allow a 3" PVC riser to fit within the shallow confines of such a wall, WHAT ABSOLUTELY WILL NOT FIT is the Fernco 3" x 3" hub-to-hub jacketed coupling which, at least in the U.S.A., is supplied with the carrier. Thus, and this is the crucial part missing from the discussion, the connection with the riser needs to be made BELOW THE FLOOR (assuming you're working with a basement or crawlspace situation or on a story above the ground floor). Plus, this requirement (not an issue if working in a native-framed wall - like with 2x4 framing that measures at or close to 4" wide) has knock on effects, the most crucial one being that depending on the thickness of the floor and whatever might be beneath it and what bowl is selected, there may not be enough available length with the supplied ABS water closet bend to permit it to extend down below the level of the floor once the extended length of the carrier's legs is taken into account. With some (if not most) carrier/bowl combinations, and especially when coupled with the desire to have an 18" or 19" rim height, the situation can occur where the supplied ABS bend is not long enough. What then, right?!
Second, the flip side of this is that if your selection of bowl and rim height doesn't result in this conflict occurring (another associated factor, of course, is what extra layers your wall may be sitting atop of, thus potentially only adding to this problem) and you DO have enough length in the supplied ABS closet bend, what you will likely overlook is the ability to take advantage of being able to slide the ABS bend down into the hole you've cut through the bottom plate of the wall (and all the layers of flooring and subflooring that the plate may be sitting on) BEFORE you permanently bolt the carrier into the framing and install the water supply line. If, like me, this doesn't occur to you until late in the install (and the instructions certainly are utterly silent about this) and you don't accomplish these steps in this order you will find yourself needing to hack up the back of the nice hole in the bottom plate (and all the layers of material beneath it) that you drilled in order to provide enough clearance to slide the closet bend into place AFTER the carrier has been installed.
That Geberit fails to so much as mention these crucial pieces of info (furthermore, I watched several install videos produced by other parties before accomplishing my first install, some involving 2x4 walls, and not one mentioned these pitfalls either) is stunning. In fact, I would argue that these omissions rise to the level of negligence. I'm mean, c'mon, this is hardly their first rodeo - they've been producing these toilet systems for many decades, I can't be the first person to raise the alert.
In my case, given the make and model of bowl I chose to pair with the 2x4 carrier - a Geberit-approved model, the Duravit ME Compact (which is the lowest profile/shallowest bowl I could find - the ideal choice for a tiny bathroom) - and the existing situation I found myself working within...
...which consisted of a 3/4 bathroom addition, c.1993, in a late-18th century home, the latter's flooring structure consisting of 1" native planks as a subfloor, 3/4 thick maple strip flooring on top of that (the interior nominally-dimensioned 2x4 wall that I mounted the carrier in sits on top of that maple flooring) but then, in the bathroom, more layers consisting of a layer of 1/4" lauan, a layer of sheet linoleum (glued down) and the new finished floor, soon to be LVP)...
...the supplied ABS water closet bend not only needed to extend down below all those layers of framing and flooring (again, the Fernco coupling will NOT fit in a nominally-dimensioned 2x4 wall so the connection to the riser MUST happen below the floor) but, because of that, the riser should have been cut to length (in my case I only needed to remove 3-1/2" from it) and inserted down through the floor BEFORE I permanently installed the carrier. As further background, because of the above scenario and a desire to achieve a 17" rim height, I didn't need to extend the carrier's legs at all (other than on one side, minutely, to adjust for plumb - one of the studs I used was existing/old work).
Now, I didn't think that far ahead - my mistake - but a simple heads-up from Geberit about this scenario (which I'm sure plenty of others face) would have been so easy to do and so much appreciated. Said another way, since this is literally the last step in the install process, an early warning about the need to address all these considerations is essential.
Most egregious, of course, is the absence of any warning that the Fernco boot will not fit in a 2x4 wall. This conspicuous omission - especially for a product designed and intended to be installed in a 2x4 wall (!) - is just beyond the pale. At the very least, a warning about this should appear in all the marketing and product descriptions detailing the 2x4 carrier as well as on the first page of its instructions, if not also on the cover (as well as on the outside of the box that encloses the carrier). It should also be at least mentioned in the above video.
My guess is that a large subset of buyers of Geberit's 2x4 carriers, at least in this part of the world, consist of installers who will have never seen one of these toilets systems in person before, much less will reliably think through in advance all the points I've raised. Thus, a little guidance from Geberit on these crucial elements affecting the install in an old-work scenario would be much appreciated.
I hope this helps the next first-timer.
I don’t like it because I can’t put the tablets in for the pretty blue water and also where the hell am I going to put my can of air freshener now?
Wow that doesn't look expensive to repair at all
It´s not.
@@nostradumbass4984 so chopping a hole in the drywall maybe remove tiles is cheap for a repair
@@henryq9390 I’m telling ya it’s not gonna fail in less than 12 years i have one and it’s 17 years old and not a single thing failed and it’s still going strong
@@miles5600 so what your saying is it's eternal and never going to need any repairs or it has yet to have a problem and you don't know the price of a repair
TEFLON tape applied CLOCKWISE...NOT as shown.
Tape, 3 wraps minimum and thread sealant. ..How disastrous would a leak be in this situation?
@@lukula2934 3 wraps AND sealant? Either you're buying Chinese parts or you're a lousy plumber.
@@oldmanfromscenetwentyfour8164
So you're a good plumber. That means you'd know that teflon tape is not intended to seal the threads. Just to make easier to to install. But I'll bow to your earned wisdom instead of mine......
@@lukula2934 Well sparky, what did Plumbers do BEFORE Teflon Tape was invented? I've NEVER had to use a sealer when using proper fittings.
@@oldmanfromscenetwentyfour8164
Cotton cord and pipe dope, and lots of it.
I just want to point out I had installed two of these toilets in one of my flip houses and one of the problems I ran into with one of the bathrooms I did a glass subway tile in the bathroom and where you bolted to the wall the glass tile kept cracking so I don't recommend using a glass subway tile I would use a stronger tile if I was to use these toilets but I just found them to be overpriced and rather have installed your standard toilet especially in a house I'm buying to sell for profit the only reason was that the neighborhood was a wealthy area
So how much more than, say, a $350 Kohler floor mount?
@@lukula2934 there approximately thousand dollars each and there's a lot of construction that goes along with it you have to open the wall frame outdoor the water tank that mounts inside the wall because all you see is the toilet bowl and the push button that mounts on the wall on the first floor mounted it to a 1 foot by 2 foot tile and upstairs had a glass subway style tile because you have to bolt them to the wall as you tighten the toilet to the wall the tiles kept breaking and also the train has to go into the wall for the waist so basically you're doing a complete renovation just to mount that toilet in the wall
Yes , I would think that the wall pressure on the lower part would be very high. Tile and mortar would require careful consideration. ie; floor rated tile and non modified mortar for a flex free install...
@@josephmalinowski6817 I just hit their web site, the wall hung unit complete is $683.00. From whose ass did you pull $3,000 price tag?
Now that I saw your comment Im going to get the floor mounted version. Less pressure on the wall.
How you gonna put a 3” dwv pipe in a 2x4 wall?? It’s 3.5” for O.D on 3” and also 3.5” of wood on 2x4?? Makes no sense
Are you for real ?
Try it I think you will be surprised. Thanks
The ones I have installed require a 2 x 6 wall.
@@f.demascio1857 Have you installed these before?...what is your opinion on this system..?
Kool
Automatic flush?
Not this one but yes that model is available too
To all the commenters who believe that the system is expensive to maintain and installation in a wall is bad. These toilets are standard in Germany for decades with almost no maintenance. If required the parts are accessible through the actuator plate.
The mind set of Americans keep the, from progress and they are still building houses like 60 years ago.
Will it hold a 400 lb rear end?
Felix Leiter it will. I think it’s rated up to 880 lb
And is it available in elongated bowl?
I'm thinking an elongated bowl would greatly increase the wall pressure and overall stress on bolts etc.
so it probably is not available in elongated. ho hum...next?
lukula yes, it is available as an elongated bowl. They actually make pretty big ones.
lukula so what about an elongated sent of butt cheeks 🤔👇🎤
You put a 3&5/8 pipe in a 3&1/2 inch wall? No you don't.
How do you gain access to the cistern if there is a problem anytime in the toilets lifespan after installation
via the actuator plate
My thoughts exactly. Rip the wall apart.
Set the tiles with small dabs of silicone caulk... break the grout out remove the tiles... redo...
@@nickdannunzio7683 Ugh. For real? Surely reengineering of the design is possible. Thanks for your explanation.
Another example of just because an engineer can build it doesn't mean it's a good idea.
So, when the $5 flapper fails.... the repair will be in the thousands once you rip the walls out!
You're paying way too much for drywall, guy
More of a facetious statement. If the job was hired out to a licensed plumber, a $5 repair would be exponentially higher and unnecessarily more difficult.
Everything prone to fail is accessible via the cover for the push buttons. If it failed on the the water and waste connections then you're stuffed. But how often does that happen if installed correctly?
@Steve Bingham as an engineer lol. You are right sometimes its not well thought out from the trades person's perspective we usually have a brief to address. But with more experience stuff like you mentioned gets picked up if its a good engineer.
@@thomasrossi31 i’ve had this toilet for 12 year’s and never failed geberit makes german quality stuff it’s not like it’s gonna fail within 10 years
Comes with a 1,000 dollar service coupon .....never seen this but I’d like to know their history
I'm confused about the venting of this toilet.
Venting will be the same as a regular toilet, from the straight pipe that is going going down through the 2"x4" base plate your plumber or you will have to attach the piping to your main drain stack and create a proper ventilation depending on your venting pipe configuration, in the video they are just showing the installation of the toilet and toilet frame not the plumbing. hope that helps
Are you sure? Because what I've read indicates that it actually vents through the actuator plate.
lol
@@Nardikron No. Mine vents from the waste pipes it's connected to.
@@terrienoll225 that's what i know too
Overall very impressive animation but @ 4:03 animation shows thread tape being installed counter clockwise. Not how it's done.
Maybe it's a reverse thread
Who else here thinks putting even more crap in the walls where a leak is more difficult to detect is a idiotic idea.
I've used this brand for 15 years and replaced a $4 gasket once. The tanks pretty much can't leak and you can get to all service parts through the actuator plate.
I have a geberit toilet like this for 19 years and not a single thing broke so there’s you answer and BTW i live in a bricked house and there’s not dry wall here so the toilet was installed inside a bricked wall and i mean this thing is more quiet and modern plus 1 million times better quality than the old floor mounted toilets
You won’t regret it
Where is the vent?
Difficult vent by UPC standards.
Easy peasy by IPC standards. Wet vented via branch to other fixture in the room, i.e. lavatory waste.
Lol that’s a lot of work to flush some shit