I inherited one of these from my grandfather in the last week ago or so, parked since 90/91. Your knowledge and resources are beyond appreciated brother.
As an ex Honda tech that has rebuilt many of those engines I don't know why you wouldn't want to do at least a top end tear down to clean/replace rings/valves etc?
I have successfully unseized multiple old engines. My favourite "additive" is a 50/50 mix of auto transmission fluid and carb cleaner. It still may take a few days but it works unless there is some serious damage to the engine internals.
Hopefully I dont have to try many more mixtures. I think this one will prove to be a runner before too long. I'm curious to see potentially how far down cylinder 1 may be. I had limited time to get this done so just went for it after it sat forever with marvels in it.
@@BrickHouseBuilds The top of that cylinder will be damaged. At the very least the engine needs to be disassembled and assessed. If you are lucky a few strokes with a cylinder home and a set of new rings may return the engine to a serviceable level.
I saw my brother unseize a moped engine with a tin of cola, he sent me up the shop, I thought he was thirsty, I wish I could see my face when he glugged it down the bore......... It worked a treat.
Heating up 0 50w engine oil to smoking temperature , then carefully pouring down the spark plug holes is an old guys tip , it does work miracles (: great vid , that cb750 is awesome base condition .
Great that the previous owner found the title so I hope you both benefit from that. A beautiful bike, I remember their first launch and how they ultimately became touring legends. 😊🏍
UPDATE 2/28/22 the bike is now running! See it here: ruclips.net/video/cLANdyjMlig/видео.html Update based on all the comments I am seeing - I explain my methods in the video as to why I am not doing a full disassembly on this bike. I have many other bikes taking priority over this project as well as very limited space to tackle another full engine rebuild at this time. - Many say to pull the top end and do it right. Of course I want to do it right but to even remove the valve cover on a SOHC 750 the engine needs to come out. I don't want to go that far because of the point above. - To do the top end and remove the cylinder you STILL need to unseize the rings in cylinder 1. That would require force as well via direct contact on the piston. I feel this was just as valid of a method to do. - If the engine comes out I would likely do a full rebuild and not just a top end as I do prefer to do things the right way. Again, it needs to be unseized anyway so see points above. - I do not think I am putting nearly the force on the crank you think I am. Note how thin my prybars are and how much they bend. I had to use the mallet on a short throw near the crank as I couldn't put much force on the crank with prybars alone. - This is a very low risk bike to do this on as I am into it very cheap, I have another SOHC 750 engine I can use the top end from if this ends up needing it, should it need that done I get to still make videos of it - This is my bike. If this were a customer bike I would 100% rebuild it. - I am excited to use this bike as a real-deal science experiment. I can now do A-B tests to show actual data for compression figures, cylinder wall condition, oil consumption, and other factors once I make this bike run. Real world concerns for many other who may find themselves in this situation. - Some suggest using the kickstarter. NO - That puts extreme force on the kickstart gears and mechanism. It is best to rotate via the most direct path possible. - Some suggest putting the bike in gear and rotating the wheel. Over the months the bike sat soaking I had the bike in gear and would attempt to rotate the rear wheel by hand at least once a week. Going beyond using my hands I prefer not to put excessive force on the transmission, clutch, primary chain as again that can cause damage. It is best to rotate by the most direct point possible. See above. - Some have scolded saying I should have checked the valves. The first day I picked the bike up I removed the tappet covers and found zero corrosion in the valve train. I then completely saturated everything with lubricant/rust preventative. Not sure how you would check them beyond using yet another prybar to manually open them. Had I done that surly you would have complained about it. - Many have suggested various chemicals. I feel at this point anything I could have used would have 5 comments saying that was the wrong thing to use. People are even upset I added an S to Marvel.... - Many have scolded for rotating by the points side and suggest using the stator side. These people have obviously not watched the whole video as I directly speak on this. The points side is easy access to apply limited force. I only have a large prybar in the video because I only have a 24mm socket in 1/2" drive. Not putting much force on it at all as it is easy to break the aluminum nut or even shear teeth on the crank. In closing I chose the methods I did based off of time available, work backlog, ultimate goals for the bike, and of course what I see/feel with the bike physically in front of me. It is easy to question my methods when you view this from a computer. I did not paint this video as a how to or as gospel as my goal isn't to suggest this is how it should be done. I made the call on my own bike and did no further damage other than some probable surface wear on cylinder 1. Remember I AM NOT the one who left the plugs out of the bike while it sat for years, I AM NOT the one who broke fins/stripped threads/broke tools on my cbx engine, I AM NOT the one who has completely butchered the wiring on most bikes that come to me BUT....I AM the guy who is working to breath new life into these bikes. I AM the guy who puts in the work to get these back on the road. I AM the guy who is striving to learn all I can and then pass that information on to others. I am happy with what I'm doing. Thank you for listening to my TED Talk, please watch the whole video before commenting
@@davidtharp2162 I do very much enjoy this stuff. This one is not for sale. Going to be my rider this season. Hopefully I can work it into the schedule within the next month
I've seen several old Honda's and Suzuki's left for dead come back to life quite easily. I have a '78 Suzuki GS750E. It was dead and locked up when I got it. When I got it turning over cold compression was like 30-45 across. After loosening it up and getting it running cold is now 125 across, hot 140. Damn bike screams.
Another series I binge watched over the weekend...! Loving your channel......,wrenching on all the old (and desirable) bikes of my youth...!! Keep doing what you are doing.....,because you are doing GREAT.!! Oh and loving the presentation as well....,great style.,conversational..,engaging and explaining along the way..!! Forget those who either cannot., or will not "follow along" they appear unable to pay attention to what you are doing and listen as to "Why"..... Pulled up my comfy chair as I'm here to stay....! Top class content...,makes me want More...!!! Well done..... BG.
Seriously thank you so much! The "why" is a huge focus of my content as it needs to be explained for people to make sense of it. People just love to skip around and try to point out anything wrong in what I do which is frustrating. Then people say I talk to much and need to shut up and work. Not my style as so many people value the explanations you don't get on other channels. Thanks again!
Nice job. I had a cb750 that I acquired for free. It was also seized and had no title. I ended up selling it, but after watching this I should have put a little more effort into getting it unseized! Diggin your channel, subbed. Cheers
Using heat on the motor helps considerably. Direct a propane heater towards the front of the motor or place an old hot plate under the motor. The heat will help expand the metal and ease the rotation of the motor.
Hope it goes well with the project these old Hondas are such great looking bikes and getting more and more valuable. Engines look so good aswell polish up great.
I havent been able to make time to work on the bike since this video a couple months ago. Should run with minimal effort at this point. Still very much want to enjoy it this season
Great vid. I agree, do compression and leak down now. If it runs try again to see if numbers improve. Anyways you can't pull the cylinder block from a seized motor until you free it so you might as well see if it can run
THIS GUY UNDERSTANDS!!!!! ❤❤❤ At a minimum this will make for a good science experiment to get actual results on compression figures. I'm excited to get it going
A 50ml plastic syringe with clear tubing attached is good for squirting oil into cylinders and sucking it out. Also handy for bleeding brakes. And don’t remove the foil when opening a new bottle of brake fluid. Punch 2 holes 180 degrees apart on the outer edge (1 pour 1 breather) and it makes pouring and topping up much less messy. Guess who just rebuilt their brakes ? ;-) Thanks for the video.
I have freed many Engines up by Putting a small amount of hot Diesel Fuel down the Spark Plug Holes having first warmed up with a Hot Air Gun.. drain Carbs and remove Petrol tank first.
Well if you liked this video I have a few directly up your alley! These are older so my video quality was not as good but great bike! 1971 Honda CL350 Revival: ruclips.net/p/PLerq_C5Llt2zTHlNanXzBSzD6-79szA4W
@@BrickHouseBuilds I'll check some of them out sometime. If you come across another 1972 CB350, Green, I'd be interested in looking at it, maybe to see if i might be able to buy it from you.
Just to be clear, I bought the 4-cyl 350. After I thought about it, and read your comment, I remembered that Honda also built the very-popular 2-cyl. 350. Just a late FYI, from an OLD-TIME Triumph and Suzuki wrench, that rode a 4-cyl Honda.
We got the 350 four here in NZ, but it wasn't anywhere near as popular as the 400 four, mainly because it came with higher bars and forward set pegs for the US market, the 400s came with flat bars and pegs set back further. They were still making different bars and footpegs for the US market right up to the late 80s, my brother ordered a new left hand handlebar for his GPZ900R (wasn't called "Ninja" here) and when we put it on, it sat a good couple of inches higher, Kawasaki had sent a batch of US spec bars by mistake.
Nice one dude!! That's a definite game changer getting it unstuck. You're expression said it all.. Ha. And, now having the Title, well that gives you a few choices eh.
@@BrickHouseBuilds I’ve rebuilt a few bikes in the recent past and just stared an Yam RD250D. That was seized and I did exactly what you did. It worked perfectly.
To all those who watch this and are upset at this please keep it cool. There are thousands of similar videos showing the same process so this is not a new thing. I made calls based on the exact situation of the time on my own bike. I am even more excited to get this one running now to enjoy this season.
Don’t listen to the hecklers man. Everyone’s an expert when it come to engines I have noticed lol Just do your thing and have fun. That’s what it’s all about!
@@DownSouthable Yea everyone is an expert 🙄 Just frustrating when I explain in the video and still get heat. Regardless I will bring this bike back to life and enjoy it in due time. Thank you
You can't let the commenters get to you. Every jerk out there is always trying to offer corrections. I would never do that, which is why I'm not going to point out that it's yeah, not yea.
@@wickedcoolname399 this comment is confusing. Is it supportive? Is it backhanded? Is it making fun of those who are pointing out how I (and every person ever) adds an S to Marvel? Is it ironic? Much confuse
Thanks man this video helped me a lot. I build mini bikes but I recently got a mini chopper frame that I’m building a cafe racer out of. I originally was going to put a harbor freight predator big block 420cc but I found a a seized cb 750 on the market place for dirt cheap. Plans changed and now I want this thing on my mini cafe racer build hopefully its nothing bad and the all it needs is a cylinder lubrication. 👍🏼
Good stuff, maybe not Honda approved but got use little persuasion sometimes. heard this once thought was funny. persistence wears down resistance, lol. pretty true. my brother has a 600 triple Polaris said i could use, here from sitting it locked up. tried a bar on clutch but no go yet, maybe more oil and try again. wish i had a garage to do this stuff, hopefully this summer
I have used a entire can of pb blaster ,I let it sit for a few days and it broke down the rust in the cylinders and didn't damage the rings ,just say.great video
Im curious as to what the number will be next time I drag the bike home. At this point a carb cleaning, once over on the ignition, and fresh plugs has me thinking it will fire up
Another great video, I had a cb750f and I loved it and miss it. And I also had a 750 triple as well and if I get another bike I’d go vintage all the way.
I had a stuck 1964 Triumph Bonneville and I used Marvel Mystery oil and heat from a rosebud torch. It took several applications of heat but finally broke loose. The bike ran fine after, never smoked and had good compression. I even took it to the local drag strip and won a trophy in my class. Unfortunately the following year it got stolen and was never recovered.
@@BrickHouseBuilds I'm working on a 1979 xs650 that hasn't run since 1981. I started the project (one of many) in 2008 and just got back to it in Jan. 2022. Hopefully will complete it by spring.
As soon as you mentioned you'd dropped on a CBX you had me subbed. I owned one back in the 80's but sold it after my brother had a really bad bike accident due to pressure from my freaked out mum. I've always regreted it and look forward to seeing your resto. I have a siezed F0 imported from Minnesota (I'm in the uk). I've only had time to pop the plugs and tip some diesel and GT85 into the cylinders. The bike was stood with the plugs in and I hope there's not too much corrosion in the bores. I have a similar situation as you, too many projects and not enough time. My day job is running my little shop repairing mainly classic Nortons amongst others.
Im definitely excited to get it up and running. It will be a lot of work with a full rebuild and resto throughout. It obviously takes priority over this bike and unfortunately many comments here don't understand my methods on this one due to that limited time. I will get this bike going and it will be a good science experiment
@@BrickHouseBuilds It's all about priorities, really, I absolutely get where you're coming from. Best of luck with the CBX. They really are an amazing bike. I can still vividly remember the first time I rode one and thought, 'I've gotta have one of these!!!' 😁
Subscribed and hit the bell, you are so close to exactly the way I would go if I got an old Honda like that one. Very good job in budgeting time. After freeing it up. I would use something like this: HOT SHOT'S SECRET HSSFR332Z FR3 FRICTION REDUCER OIL ADDITIVE, on the first start up and then change it out as soon as it is warm. I would take that bike at this point. Very good job!
Thank ya! Per my normal measures once its running Ill do a few oil changes within the first 100 miles to make sure all the junk gets filtered out as it gets heat cycled and ridden.
Over many years of working on old farm equipment I've found either Are kroil or vinegar seems to work the best to break the rust loose / engine free up.
Awesome upload. Thank you. I love the way you make video's. Btw i would have warmed it up. Get the barrels to expand a little to help to lose it up. However im a loser so dont mind me.
I thought opening up that engine, cleaning and rebuilding it would have worked better but I've read somewhere in earlier comments that you didn't have time to do it. Awesome job restoring it though, I've pretty much watched most, well, a few of the videos around this bike
Well there are over 20 videos in this playlist of getting the bike going. I highly suggest the full timelapse video as well as this one which documents engine health ruclips.net/video/mbpp8l_QLDg/видео.html
@@BrickHouseBuilds Watched the video, awesome work brother. I have a question for you since you are more experienced than me in working on motorcycles, at what point does one need to open up and rebuild an engine of an old motorcycle? What should I look out for or what usually needs changing?
@@mattkayem1554 That could be a long list. If you can nee noticeably bad gaskets such as the head or base gasket. If you run the engine and it consumes oil from say the vale seals which can go dry over time. If there is excessive metal in the oil. Obvious rattling that you have confirmed isn't something like a clutch or starter etc. Having a borescope helps get an idea of cylinder condition. A compression check is a great one to do also. There can be more reasons of course but all bikes and situations are different so its important to use your best judgement
There will be within a month. I just have a substantial amount of stuff going on. I just put a video up Monday talking about new ventures and what to expect with the bikes
I used a big strap wrench on the rotor to free up a CB750. I don't think it was stuck as long as that one though. I told the customer there was no guarantee it would be okay. He came back later and said it smoked for a while then was normal. BTW, I bought a 1969 new CB750 (Sand Cast) SN 1001352, the day after returning from Vietnam October 31st, 1969.
Im not sure a strap wrench would have worked here. I have some but this one was pretty firm so out came the prybars. I'm in no way expecting the cylinder to be perfect but it will perform fine.
A few years ago my uncle gave me a 79 Super Sport. My hillbilly cousin had it and the last time it ran was 2012. It was my first project like that. Rebuilt the carbs, shimmed the valves, oiled the cams, and did a lot of cosmetic work into it. I put about $1200 into it and sold it for $900.00. My daughter was getting married and I needed the cash. I kinda wish I still had it. It ran great but the suspension sucked bad.
Awesome videos! I love seeing the process of how to go about working on these Honda’s. I’ve got a 75 cb360t that runs great, looking for a cb750 to bring back to life, wish I knew where to look for one like this!
Glad you enjoy them! Check out my 2 part series with the orange CB750 and bringing it back to life. This bike wasn't listed in an ad but rather in the background of an ad. I asked and got a deal on it
Clean the points and give it a 12 volt jump! It might fire right up with a bit of gas squirted into the intakes. Carbs can be cleaned later. I wonder what the crankcase oil looked like?
3:07 better to turn it over on the mag side, the point cover just has a tiny 10mm bolt, real easy to break it off. Nvm, I see you put a disclaimer in later saying you later accessed the stator side
I think stress wise and needing to avoid any shaft-thread damage on either side of the engine, I think I would have initially put the bike into gear and push-pull the rear wheel manually until I got some movement. If not then strip and dismantle.
Great job getting it unstuck! As stoked as I am to see you resurrect this one your right, with the price you paid and now not only getting it unseized but having the title too makes this old Honda's possible return on your investment pretty good. If you also got it running.....😎
@@BrickHouseBuilds oh it’s all good , at the end of the day there are plenty of ways to “ crack and egg “ . Whatever works and so Long as you are enjoying yourself , is all that matters 👌
I wondered if you would use Marvel Mystery Oil. That is some amazing mysterious stuff. A friend of mine told me it was made from pig fat. Whatever it is, if you get it in your hair, prepare to have greasy hair for a long time. By the way, it broke lose my Honda 125 crank and piston that had been sitting for years. [add] Friend took the bike and filled the crankcase up with the oil, and then we turned the bike upside down and let the top of the engine soak in that stuff.
Good job at getting it unstuck. However, the kickstart would have been a better place to start (and s the “most accessible point”). It is designed to take a strong push.
Stopped at 3:30 to mention the possibility of stuck valves. Shouldn't you determine that first to prevent expensive valve and head damage......perhaps pistons as well?
My salt for living in a country that never sold the CB750 and therefore will never have cheap old ones for me to pick up is eternal. Somebody send one to my country pls.
I've never heard of using brake fluid before...I'll remember that one. Generally I use a 50/50 mix of acetone and atf, and for the really nasty stuff, Classic Coke.
Put that breaker bar back on the crankshaft pull it as far as you can go whichever direction and then hang a weight from it leave that sitting for a while
@@BrickHouseBuilds honestly I’m not entirely sure. Never worked on a bike before. I was lied to buy the guy I traded with which I never would have guessed since before that we’d been friends for years. I do know now from another friend it laid outside on its side for 20 years so gas mixed into the oil and you can smell it.
@@thesovietvorona1007 Thats a tough call without further investigation. Luckily rebel 250 parts are cheap and plentiful so a replacement engine wouldn't be the end of the world
Just started following this, but I can't seem to find EP2., does it exist? Caught my interest because one of my earlier bikes was an original 1969 CB750 "sandcast" (yes , I know they were actually "permanent mold cast", not "sandcast" as they were known) which I bought in the early 70's in mint condition. It was the same sort of greenish blue as the one that you have. Wish I still had it.
Hey Bruce, this is EP3 in the series and the last time I have been able to work on it a couple months back. I have everything broken down into playlists by bike. This one will soon be back in the shop though to actually make run.
If you haven't already done it, please don't sell it to anyone else but me 😄, I've always wanted one since the first time I rode a CB Honda that had been seized lol, but I couldn't find any and had to settle for the later models starting with a CB900FZ. Thanks awesomely for your great show and very well done unseizing job, I always use "Rostoff" it's like magic from a bolt that's about to break to (after lunch) it's finger tight, I have no idea how it does it 😀.
Can see why it’s seized , because it was owned by the same person that fitted those exhausts to a Honda 4 , one of the most iconic motorcycles ever made ,with one of the most iconic 4 pipe exhaust systems.
Id argue the 400f 4into1 may be the most iconic but regardless both are nice looking systems. I do however feel waaaaay too much value is put on these 750 pipes as the cost is just stupid at this point making any restoration attempt pointless.
Bout 35 years ago…. I had the same thing happen to a junk 71 Pontiac Catalina… I wasn’t as lucky Could NOT break it loose Chained car to tree, And A chain to a torque converter bolt. Massive force didn’t break it loose…threw it away
You have two of the most sought after bikes on the planet In that CB750 and the cbx. Keep them both and even if you never get around to restoring that cb750, you won't lose any money on it ...just the opposite.
CBX I won't argue. This CB750 is not the best resto candidate in my opinion with how common and cheap they are. I'll likely modify this one a bit but nothing crazy
@@BrickHouseBuilds have you seen the prices on cb750s. I've seen them draw 15000.00 at auction for ones built after 1969 (non sandcast). If you do the mechanicals yourself and the reassembly , you could do quite well one one. The paint is expensive yes but labour is the biggest cost in a resto.
@@elmerfudd1086 I just haven't seen later sohc bikes bring that. Id have 10k in this thing real quick on a restoration and id estimate if I listed it when done I wouldn't even get that.
@@BrickHouseBuilds i could see that 10k if you outsourced the mechanicals but powder coating, tires , engine rebuild if you do it yourself, a seat cover and new exhaust (4 into 4 ) i cant see breaking 6 to 7 grand. I saw a sandcast sell for 30g's last summer. I know there will be a few other things but even at your 10g's I still think you would be ahead of the curve in terms of resale. But its your bike and like I said. Depending on price I might be into it. Gotta clear it through home management of course. Keep in touch though guy. Im interested to see what you do with this and also hope to see vids on that 6 banger. Be safe. J.
Dude, this a real nice machine how can you not want to tare down the top end... it's a real good looking bike 🏍 not mention one my favorite one, my first real bike was 76' CB 750 SS and for seven years all I did was dream 750 all day long... you have a real nice part of motorcycle history in your hands.. why not do it some real justice here... you can bet anybody that has, had a 750 Honda would love to see you respect the 750... I hope you do.. You want to sell it, try selling after you have worked 💪 it real good... I bet it will be a lot more greater a sell... anyhow am just a silly old fool... I'll keep an eye on your channel to what may happen....ok.
Hey John I tried to explain in he video multiple time why I was doing what I was doing. Definitely take a look at even just my latest 5 videos to understand all that I'm working on right now. I'm doing a full restoration of a cbx which I'm "doing justice" as well as customer custom builds as well as service work, as well as running the business. This bike is not a high priority bike and other projects take seniority. I had only 1 day to drag this home and try to unstick the engine and not longer to remove and rebuild the engine.
I hear you... this was the first video of yours I seen.. it seems you are keeping busy... I will subscribe to your channel and check you out, and maybe learn a thing or two... must be nice to be able and willing as I remember it used to be for me... take care and enjoy 😉
@@BrickHouseBuilds Yeah, keep it and fix everything to make it road worthy. I'm intrigued to see if the engine will heal itself after some hours and a few oil changes. This bike has just the right amount of patina.
So if you had more time and wanted to make this bike your own, when you got those pistons finally moving little by little would you have taken the top off and honed those cylinder walls and maybe replaced the rings? I’m in the same situation with my cb550F, it’s got diesel up to the spark plug holes atm. Just wondering how much I should turn the crank before I pull the top off and get to cleaning that crud out. Thank you, great video!
So to best answer your question I actually suggest you keep watching the series. I make the bike run and now ride it daily. I show A/B testing of cylinder condition with a camera and compression figures. Lots of info as I go with this one.
@@BrickHouseBuilds awesome! Definitely going to keep watching but I wanted to get that question in as I only had time for that video. I’ll try to keep you updated as my 550F works on getting freed up!
Its patiently waiting in the warehouse still. It should run after a carb rebuild, fresh fluids, and going through the ignition system. Still hoping to make it my rider this season
I spoke directly on that in the video Marco. That is why I removed the stator cover to get access to the crank on the other side. Using the kickstart is a bad idea here.
I have a 1981 CB 650 (4) in mint shape but gas tank needs cleaning out the rust. What should i use to remove the rust from the gas tank inside ??????? same color also blue
After trying to break it free with the wheel. I would have suggested taking off starter gear to begin with, which you got to anyway. And if you had a breaker bar, instead of a torque wrench, wack it at the end in reverse, rotating the engine backwards. It looked like the piston was already halfway up, so going backwards would free it easier, instead of going against the rust. And hopefully if the rust was bad, would not damage the walls and rings when the piston would come back up. Not sure if the rotor assembly took much of a beating, or if you plan on replacing it? Fitting the prybars in there would have been my last case scenario. But you did it with success, so kudos!
I appreciate the input but I did not use a torque wrench. You see me try exactly what you said with a breaker bar in the reverse direction but if I were to hit that I 100% would have broken the bolt and caused more problems. I've done this exact method with my prybar in the rotor before again with success. The rotor took no beating as I was as gentle as I could be with it. Every placement was strategic and great care was taken. In regards to the piston being halfway up I could not confirm what stroke it was on so no idea as to if it was moving up or down. There will likely be some residual cylinder wall rust evidence but I'm willing to give it a shot as I'm in this bike cheap and have access to other engines.
@@BrickHouseBuilds Ah, I had to watch that part again. Your arm was sitting right inline with the breaker bar, and the small releases made it sound like a torque wrench. Apologies for my misunderstanding. I haven't had to go so far as using prybars, but good to know that they are still a safe way to go. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Just came across your channel last night, and looks like you've put a lot of good content out. Looking forward to watching your videos
I agree , the top end will have to come of as the piston’s have be exposed to the elements, yes new ring’s definitely, also check The cylinders for scoring or sign’s of damage, if so rebore might be in order, also valves inlet exhaust check. So if all ok. New caskets points also, the correct spark plugs not some make do, as some people I have seen do, clean carburettor, and air filters New oil in gear box, other thing a battery ect ects, you should be good to go.
If the oil filter wrench doesn't work, what I have done is use a chain wrench built onto vise grips. Lock it on the rotor, and you can wiggle it in both directions to free it up. You HAVE TO BE PATIENT. Given enough time and a penetrating oil called Super-eez, you should be able to free it.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I inherited one of these from my grandfather in the last week ago or so, parked since 90/91. Your knowledge and resources are beyond appreciated brother.
That's awesome! Definitely bring it back to life
Not sure if I’d run to it or run away
How’d you do
As an ex Honda tech that has rebuilt many of those engines I don't know why you wouldn't want to do at least a top end tear down to clean/replace rings/valves etc?
As explained multiple times in the video. Limited time with other projects taking priority
@@BrickHouseBuilds You also help people with less confidence
This engine has a lot of life left
New rings will wear cylinder liners. Don't change them unless you really need
@@BrickHouseBuilds Limited time? If you are that stupid, sell it to somebody who knows how to fix things.
Lubricant + time + patience. Great combination, and pure heaven for this old CB. Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks Peter! Excited to get this bike on the road
I find motorcycles of this period better looking than today's machines with all their plasticware. Anyone else?
You would find many agree
I love your patient, methodical, approach. Great job!
Thank you
I have successfully unseized multiple old engines. My favourite "additive" is a 50/50 mix of auto transmission fluid and carb cleaner. It still may take a few days but it works unless there is some serious damage to the engine internals.
Hopefully I dont have to try many more mixtures. I think this one will prove to be a runner before too long. I'm curious to see potentially how far down cylinder 1 may be. I had limited time to get this done so just went for it after it sat forever with marvels in it.
@@BrickHouseBuilds The top of that cylinder will be damaged. At the very least the engine needs to be disassembled and assessed. If you are lucky a few strokes with a cylinder home and a set of new rings may return the engine to a serviceable level.
I saw my brother unseize a moped engine with a tin of cola, he sent me up the shop, I thought he was thirsty, I wish I could see my face when he glugged it down the bore.........
It worked a treat.
Mixture i`m using is 50/50 ATF and Tinners. Working good!
Gotta remember this.
Heating up 0 50w engine oil to smoking temperature , then carefully pouring down the spark plug holes is an old guys tip , it does work miracles (: great vid , that cb750 is awesome base condition .
Thanks Tim!
Great that the previous owner found the title so I hope you both benefit from that. A beautiful bike, I remember their first launch and how they ultimately became touring legends. 😊🏍
UPDATE 2/28/22 the bike is now running! See it here:
ruclips.net/video/cLANdyjMlig/видео.html
Update based on all the comments I am seeing
- I explain my methods in the video as to why I am not doing a full disassembly on this bike. I have many other bikes taking priority over this project as well as very limited space to tackle another full engine rebuild at this time.
- Many say to pull the top end and do it right. Of course I want to do it right but to even remove the valve cover on a SOHC 750 the engine needs to come out. I don't want to go that far because of the point above.
- To do the top end and remove the cylinder you STILL need to unseize the rings in cylinder 1. That would require force as well via direct contact on the piston. I feel this was just as valid of a method to do.
- If the engine comes out I would likely do a full rebuild and not just a top end as I do prefer to do things the right way. Again, it needs to be unseized anyway so see points above.
- I do not think I am putting nearly the force on the crank you think I am. Note how thin my prybars are and how much they bend. I had to use the mallet on a short throw near the crank as I couldn't put much force on the crank with prybars alone.
- This is a very low risk bike to do this on as I am into it very cheap, I have another SOHC 750 engine I can use the top end from if this ends up needing it, should it need that done I get to still make videos of it
- This is my bike. If this were a customer bike I would 100% rebuild it.
- I am excited to use this bike as a real-deal science experiment. I can now do A-B tests to show actual data for compression figures, cylinder wall condition, oil consumption, and other factors once I make this bike run. Real world concerns for many other who may find themselves in this situation.
- Some suggest using the kickstarter. NO - That puts extreme force on the kickstart gears and mechanism. It is best to rotate via the most direct path possible.
- Some suggest putting the bike in gear and rotating the wheel. Over the months the bike sat soaking I had the bike in gear and would attempt to rotate the rear wheel by hand at least once a week. Going beyond using my hands I prefer not to put excessive force on the transmission, clutch, primary chain as again that can cause damage. It is best to rotate by the most direct point possible. See above.
- Some have scolded saying I should have checked the valves. The first day I picked the bike up I removed the tappet covers and found zero corrosion in the valve train. I then completely saturated everything with lubricant/rust preventative. Not sure how you would check them beyond using yet another prybar to manually open them. Had I done that surly you would have complained about it.
- Many have suggested various chemicals. I feel at this point anything I could have used would have 5 comments saying that was the wrong thing to use. People are even upset I added an S to Marvel....
- Many have scolded for rotating by the points side and suggest using the stator side. These people have obviously not watched the whole video as I directly speak on this. The points side is easy access to apply limited force. I only have a large prybar in the video because I only have a 24mm socket in 1/2" drive. Not putting much force on it at all as it is easy to break the aluminum nut or even shear teeth on the crank.
In closing I chose the methods I did based off of time available, work backlog, ultimate goals for the bike, and of course what I see/feel with the bike physically in front of me. It is easy to question my methods when you view this from a computer. I did not paint this video as a how to or as gospel as my goal isn't to suggest this is how it should be done. I made the call on my own bike and did no further damage other than some probable surface wear on cylinder 1. Remember I AM NOT the one who left the plugs out of the bike while it sat for years, I AM NOT the one who broke fins/stripped threads/broke tools on my cbx engine, I AM NOT the one who has completely butchered the wiring on most bikes that come to me BUT....I AM the guy who is working to breath new life into these bikes. I AM the guy who puts in the work to get these back on the road. I AM the guy who is striving to learn all I can and then pass that information on to others. I am happy with what I'm doing.
Thank you for listening to my TED Talk, please watch the whole video before commenting
I love doing stuff like that. Pretty apperent from other builds you know what your doing and having fun doing it. Is that CB 750 for sale?
@@davidtharp2162 I do very much enjoy this stuff. This one is not for sale. Going to be my rider this season. Hopefully I can work it into the schedule within the next month
@@BrickHouseBuilds Can't wait to see it running and if you can get the rings to seal.
@@davidtharp2162 it will make for a good experiment!
One big issue with those is the aluminum pistons, they scrub out real easy. Cool vid brother
Amazing work this guy knows his stuff
Thank ya!
@@BrickHouseBuilds great to watch these type of rebuild once owned cx 500 and cb 750k and and cbx 1000 god bless the jabs they were good for something
I remember seeing a yellow one of these in shop in 1976, I was 15 and it was so beautiful!
Not many in yellow!
If that motor has been sitting for a few years, letting it sit and soak in that Marvel for a few days is a no-brainer.
It soaked for over a month actually
I've seen several old Honda's and Suzuki's left for dead come back to life quite easily. I have a '78 Suzuki GS750E. It was dead and locked up when I got it. When I got it turning over cold compression was like 30-45 across. After loosening it up and getting it running cold is now 125 across, hot 140. Damn bike screams.
I've always had good luck bringing them back. I'm confident this one will as well
Another series I binge watched over the weekend...!
Loving your channel......,wrenching on all the old (and desirable) bikes of my youth...!!
Keep doing what you are doing.....,because you are doing GREAT.!!
Oh and loving the presentation as well....,great style.,conversational..,engaging and explaining along the way..!!
Forget those who either cannot., or will not "follow along" they appear unable to pay attention to what you are doing and listen as to "Why".....
Pulled up my comfy chair as I'm here to stay....!
Top class content...,makes me want More...!!!
Well done.....
BG.
Seriously thank you so much! The "why" is a huge focus of my content as it needs to be explained for people to make sense of it. People just love to skip around and try to point out anything wrong in what I do which is frustrating. Then people say I talk to much and need to shut up and work. Not my style as so many people value the explanations you don't get on other channels. Thanks again!
Diesel is one really really good helper for a stuck engine.
Nice job. I had a cb750 that I acquired for free. It was also seized and had no title. I ended up selling it, but after watching this I should have put a little more effort into getting it unseized! Diggin your channel, subbed. Cheers
Thanks man! I appreciate the sub!
I was excited to see you were able to save the engine after seeing that rusty cylinder!
The engine really came back to life well. I documented it in detail with a later health check video
is the engine still running well or did it need rebuild?
Using heat on the motor helps considerably. Direct a propane heater towards the front of the motor or place an old hot plate under the motor. The heat will help expand the metal and ease the rotation of the motor.
I owned a 75, 750 exactly like this one. Nice video!
Thank ya Melvin! I'm getting really excited to make this one a runner
Hope it goes well with the project these old Hondas are such great looking bikes and getting more and more valuable.
Engines look so good aswell polish up great.
I havent been able to make time to work on the bike since this video a couple months ago. Should run with minimal effort at this point. Still very much want to enjoy it this season
Another super video. These just keep getting better and better. Keep ‘em coming.
Thank you Marcus, I'm rrrreeeaaally trying to make the videos better right now
Great vid. I agree, do compression and leak down now. If it runs try again to see if numbers improve. Anyways you can't pull the cylinder block from a seized motor until you free it so you might as well see if it can run
THIS GUY UNDERSTANDS!!!!! ❤❤❤ At a minimum this will make for a good science experiment to get actual results on compression figures. I'm excited to get it going
A 50ml plastic syringe with clear tubing attached is good for squirting oil into cylinders and sucking it out. Also handy for bleeding brakes. And don’t remove the foil when opening a new bottle of brake fluid. Punch 2 holes 180 degrees apart on the outer edge (1 pour 1 breather) and it makes pouring and topping up much less messy. Guess who just rebuilt their brakes ? ;-) Thanks for the video.
Yes I do both of those things actually. Glad you enjoyed it
Why have I never thought about that. Thank you, no more fluid spills!
I have freed many Engines up by Putting a small amount of hot Diesel Fuel down the Spark Plug Holes having first warmed up with a Hot Air Gun..
drain Carbs and remove Petrol tank first.
This OLD man bought a CB350 new in the fall of 1972, $1160 out the door. Really enjoyed that bike. this video brought the memories back!
Well if you liked this video I have a few directly up your alley! These are older so my video quality was not as good but great bike!
1971 Honda CL350 Revival: ruclips.net/p/PLerq_C5Llt2zTHlNanXzBSzD6-79szA4W
@@BrickHouseBuilds I'll check some of them out sometime. If you come across another 1972 CB350, Green, I'd be interested in looking at it, maybe to see if i might be able to buy it from you.
Just to be clear, I bought the 4-cyl 350. After I thought about it, and read your comment, I remembered that Honda also built the very-popular 2-cyl. 350. Just a late FYI, from an OLD-TIME Triumph and Suzuki wrench, that rode a 4-cyl Honda.
@@charlessjones9944 350k vs 350f yea. Simple mistake. I've had a 350f and 400f as well. Would love to have another
We got the 350 four here in NZ, but it wasn't anywhere near as popular as the 400 four, mainly because it came with higher bars and forward set pegs for the US market, the 400s came with flat bars and pegs set back further. They were still making different bars and footpegs for the US market right up to the late 80s, my brother ordered a new left hand handlebar for his GPZ900R (wasn't called "Ninja" here) and when we put it on, it sat a good couple of inches higher, Kawasaki had sent a batch of US spec bars by mistake.
Wow! Looks so easy. That Marvels Mystery Oil. And with time. and More time. Here and there. Nice. Thank you. Wow.
That and some force lol
Nice one dude!! That's a definite game changer getting it unstuck. You're expression said it all.. Ha. And, now having the Title, well that gives you a few choices eh.
100% also I laughed at my own reaction the first time through the edit lol
Nice one and I learned a lot. Don’t get down with some of the comments, I appreciate what you did and doing. 👍
Thank ya Lee
@@BrickHouseBuilds I’ve rebuilt a few bikes in the recent past and just stared an Yam RD250D. That was seized and I did exactly what you did. It worked perfectly.
To all those who watch this and are upset at this please keep it cool. There are thousands of similar videos showing the same process so this is not a new thing. I made calls based on the exact situation of the time on my own bike. I am even more excited to get this one running now to enjoy this season.
Don’t listen to the hecklers man. Everyone’s an expert when it come to engines I have noticed lol Just do your thing and have fun. That’s what it’s all about!
@@DownSouthable Yea everyone is an expert 🙄 Just frustrating when I explain in the video and still get heat. Regardless I will bring this bike back to life and enjoy it in due time. Thank you
You can't let the commenters get to you. Every jerk out there is always trying to offer corrections. I would never do that, which is why I'm not going to point out that it's yeah, not yea.
@@wickedcoolname399 this comment is confusing. Is it supportive? Is it backhanded? Is it making fun of those who are pointing out how I (and every person ever) adds an S to Marvel? Is it ironic? Much confuse
@@BrickHouseBuilds Yes, it's supportive and backhanded.
Thanks man this video helped me a lot. I build mini bikes but I recently got a mini chopper frame that I’m building a cafe racer out of. I originally was going to put a harbor freight predator big block 420cc but I found a a seized cb 750 on the market place for dirt cheap. Plans changed and now I want this thing on my mini cafe racer build hopefully its nothing bad and the all it needs is a cylinder lubrication. 👍🏼
There is always the potential for larger issues or reasons its seized but this one was pretty obvious. Definitely take your time with it
Good stuff, maybe not Honda approved but got use little persuasion sometimes. heard this once thought was funny. persistence wears down resistance, lol. pretty true. my brother has a 600 triple Polaris said i could use, here from sitting it locked up. tried a bar on clutch but no go yet, maybe more oil and try again. wish i had a garage to do this stuff, hopefully this summer
Definitely not ideal but it had to be done. Hopefully you continue with this series as I have a ton of fun with this bike!
I have used a entire can of pb blaster ,I let it sit for a few days and it broke down the rust in the cylinders and didn't damage the rings ,just say.great video
That pb blaster is pure magic
WOW I have got to get me one of the bore scopes, they look really handy.
I use it ALL THE TIME now that I have it. Very worthwhile tool
I've seen Seafoam and Marvel bump low compression numbers up to almost factory-but you gotta keep it running while fogging it. Good luck
Im curious as to what the number will be next time I drag the bike home. At this point a carb cleaning, once over on the ignition, and fresh plugs has me thinking it will fire up
Another great video, I had a cb750f and I loved it and miss it. And I also had a 750 triple as well and if I get another bike I’d go vintage all the way.
Thank ya! I would love to do another xs750 but just wish they were chain drive
@@BrickHouseBuilds yeah you’re right, the shaft driven bikes tend to be expensive to fix and parts are hard to find.
I forgot all about this one lol. Pretty damn sweet that the owner found the title👍🏼
For sure! I had been talking with him on it for months trying to get the title another way but then he found it and I lucked out to say the least
I had one of these, same colour, mine seized, but it was the camshaft bearings that seized up.
I had a customer bring me a cb750 chopper that had a wiped out cam and tower. The cylinder head oil jet was blocked which was unfortunate
I had a stuck 1964 Triumph Bonneville and I used Marvel Mystery oil and heat from a rosebud torch. It took several applications of heat but finally broke loose. The bike ran fine after, never smoked and had good compression. I even took it to the local drag strip and won a trophy in my class. Unfortunately the following year it got stolen and was never recovered.
I do think I missed an opportunity for heat but the job is done. As I type this im working on the bike and hope to have it running by the weekend!
@@BrickHouseBuilds I'm working on a 1979 xs650 that hasn't run since 1981. I started the project (one of many) in 2008 and just got back to it in Jan. 2022. Hopefully will complete it by spring.
As soon as you mentioned you'd dropped on a CBX you had me subbed. I owned one back in the 80's but sold it after my brother had a really bad bike accident due to pressure from my freaked out mum. I've always regreted it and look forward to seeing your resto. I have a siezed F0 imported from Minnesota (I'm in the uk). I've only had time to pop the plugs and tip some diesel and GT85 into the cylinders. The bike was stood with the plugs in and I hope there's not too much corrosion in the bores.
I have a similar situation as you, too many projects and not enough time. My day job is running my little shop repairing mainly classic Nortons amongst others.
Im definitely excited to get it up and running. It will be a lot of work with a full rebuild and resto throughout. It obviously takes priority over this bike and unfortunately many comments here don't understand my methods on this one due to that limited time. I will get this bike going and it will be a good science experiment
@@BrickHouseBuilds It's all about priorities, really, I absolutely get where you're coming from.
Best of luck with the CBX. They really are an amazing bike. I can still vividly remember the first time I rode one and thought, 'I've gotta have one of these!!!' 😁
Subscribed and hit the bell, you are so close to exactly the way I would go if I got an old Honda like that one. Very good job in budgeting time. After freeing it up. I would use something like this: HOT SHOT'S SECRET HSSFR332Z FR3 FRICTION REDUCER OIL ADDITIVE, on the first start up and then change it out as soon as it is warm. I would take that bike at this point. Very good job!
Thank ya! Per my normal measures once its running Ill do a few oil changes within the first 100 miles to make sure all the junk gets filtered out as it gets heat cycled and ridden.
Over many years of working on old farm equipment I've found either Are kroil or vinegar seems to work the best to break the rust loose / engine free up.
Maybe a strap wrench and length of pipe instead of 2 prybars less chance of any damage. Allways enjoy your video's. Keep them coming.
@@martinflanagan2506 thanks for watching. Definitely keep watching this series as I had a lot of fun with this bike 🤘
Awesome upload. Thank you. I love the way you make video's. Btw i would have warmed it up. Get the barrels to expand a little to help to lose it up. However im a loser so dont mind me.
Heat would have helped but I simply didn't think of it in the moment
@@BrickHouseBuilds Just know that you rock sir. Next time you give it a try, it also helps the oil get in there. Never mind them haters.
I thought opening up that engine, cleaning and rebuilding it would have worked better but I've read somewhere in earlier comments that you didn't have time to do it. Awesome job restoring it though, I've pretty much watched most, well, a few of the videos around this bike
Well there are over 20 videos in this playlist of getting the bike going. I highly suggest the full timelapse video as well as this one which documents engine health ruclips.net/video/mbpp8l_QLDg/видео.html
@@BrickHouseBuilds Watched the video, awesome work brother. I have a question for you since you are more experienced than me in working on motorcycles, at what point does one need to open up and rebuild an engine of an old motorcycle? What should I look out for or what usually needs changing?
@@mattkayem1554 That could be a long list. If you can nee noticeably bad gaskets such as the head or base gasket. If you run the engine and it consumes oil from say the vale seals which can go dry over time. If there is excessive metal in the oil. Obvious rattling that you have confirmed isn't something like a clutch or starter etc. Having a borescope helps get an idea of cylinder condition. A compression check is a great one to do also. There can be more reasons of course but all bikes and situations are different so its important to use your best judgement
@@BrickHouseBuilds Thanks alot
I too have had good luck with marvel mystery oil had spark,clean carb, unstuck the rings had compression started on 2nd kick
Im not sure how much the MMO did here but I'm just happy it's free. I'm still hoping I can get it running this spring.
I wish there was a Part 4 but oh well... Life goes on haha
There will be within a month. I just have a substantial amount of stuff going on. I just put a video up Monday talking about new ventures and what to expect with the bikes
Very cool.
Thanks Daniel!
This made me very excited for you. I love that feeling when you get it turning
Thanks Mo, definitely a smile on my face just then. Im excited to get this girl running!
@@BrickHouseBuilds and I'll be watching that video as well. Love that part and the feeling of making something that someone has no use for run again.
I used a big strap wrench on the rotor to free up a CB750. I don't think it was stuck as long as that one though. I told the customer there was no guarantee it would be okay. He came back later and said it smoked for a while then was normal. BTW, I bought a 1969 new CB750 (Sand Cast) SN 1001352, the day after returning from Vietnam October 31st, 1969.
Im not sure a strap wrench would have worked here. I have some but this one was pretty firm so out came the prybars. I'm in no way expecting the cylinder to be perfect but it will perform fine.
A few years ago my uncle gave me a 79 Super Sport. My hillbilly cousin had it and the last time it ran was 2012. It was my first project like that. Rebuilt the carbs, shimmed the valves, oiled the cams, and did a lot of cosmetic work into it. I put about $1200 into it and sold it for $900.00. My daughter was getting married and I needed the cash. I kinda wish I still had it. It ran great but the suspension sucked bad.
Could have put after market shocks and new fork springs on it. Maybe some heavier fork oil.
Awesome videos! I love seeing the process of how to go about working on these Honda’s. I’ve got a 75 cb360t that runs great, looking for a cb750 to bring back to life, wish I knew where to look for one like this!
Glad you enjoy them! Check out my 2 part series with the orange CB750 and bringing it back to life. This bike wasn't listed in an ad but rather in the background of an ad. I asked and got a deal on it
Surprisingly, you can use diesel as a release fluid
Yep, and It works even better with some ATF mixed it.
I find that ATF works well in unsiezing motors, gearboxes etc.
My old man used to make his own penetrating fluid up using ATF and some diesel, worked a treat.
Great information,
Thank you. 🍻🇦🇺
🤘🤘
Clean the points and give it a 12 volt jump! It might fire right up with a bit of gas squirted into the intakes. Carbs can be cleaned later. I wonder what the crankcase oil looked like?
Just keep watching is all I can say. You will love this playlist
Yes!!! Bring back all the CBs back to life :)
Ya can't kill old Hondas!
@@BrickHouseBuilds For real!
3:07 better to turn it over on the mag side, the point cover just has a tiny 10mm bolt, real easy to break it off. Nvm, I see you put a disclaimer in later saying you later accessed the stator side
Surely a top-end rebuild before the hammer treatment?
See my pinned comment
I think stress wise and needing to avoid any shaft-thread damage on either side of the engine, I think I would have initially put the bike into gear and push-pull the rear wheel manually until I got some movement. If not then strip and dismantle.
see my pinned comment
Great job getting it unstuck! As stoked as I am to see you resurrect this one your right, with the price you paid and now not only getting it unseized but having the title too makes this old Honda's possible return on your investment pretty good. If you also got it running.....😎
Yea it definitely had a bleak future just a couple months ago but now with the title and free spinning engine it is a new ballgame!
I normally use ATF to free up stuck cylinders
Yea lots of suggestions for various stuff here. Marvels was just the easiest solution for me. I don't want the fumes from diesel where this is stored
@@BrickHouseBuilds oh it’s all good , at the end of the day there are plenty of ways to “ crack and egg “ . Whatever works and so Long as you are enjoying yourself , is all that matters 👌
I wondered if you would use Marvel Mystery Oil. That is some amazing mysterious stuff. A friend of mine told me it was made from pig fat. Whatever it is, if you get it in your hair, prepare to have greasy hair for a long time. By the way, it broke lose my Honda 125 crank and piston that had been sitting for years. [add] Friend took the bike and filled the crankcase up with the oil, and then we turned the bike upside down and let the top of the engine soak in that stuff.
Good job at getting it unstuck. However, the kickstart would have been a better place to start (and s the “most accessible point”). It is designed to take a strong push.
Incorrect. You DO NOT want to jump on the kickstarter and induce extra stress on that mechanism. Rotating via most direct point is best
Stopped at 3:30 to mention the possibility of stuck valves. Shouldn't you determine that first to prevent expensive valve and head damage......perhaps pistons as well?
Id press play to see the results
CBX 1000 WoW 😮
🏋️👈excellent vídeo my new friend greetings happy week my positive forever i love honda 😍💯💯💯
Thank you much Gustavo!
My salt for living in a country that never sold the CB750 and therefore will never have cheap old ones for me to pick up is eternal. Somebody send one to my country pls.
Soaking pistons & bores in brake fluid helps ,it’s a great penetrating fluid.
I've never heard of using brake fluid before...I'll remember that one. Generally I use a 50/50 mix of acetone and atf, and for the really nasty stuff, Classic Coke.
Put that breaker bar back on the crankshaft pull it as far as you can go whichever direction and then hang a weight from it leave that sitting for a while
Its already freed up
I hope you get it running and make it sounds like a formula 1 car. Good luck
Im hoping to get it up and running before March if possible. I very much want to ride this
I just got a cmx250 Rebel from 86. I was lied to heavily and it’s seized to hell. Had marvel mystery oil sitting for a few days with no change in it..
Do you know its seized at the rings or not? Lots of other mixes listed in the comments here as well
@@BrickHouseBuilds honestly I’m not entirely sure. Never worked on a bike before. I was lied to buy the guy I traded with which I never would have guessed since before that we’d been friends for years. I do know now from another friend it laid outside on its side for 20 years so gas mixed into the oil and you can smell it.
@@thesovietvorona1007 Thats a tough call without further investigation. Luckily rebel 250 parts are cheap and plentiful so a replacement engine wouldn't be the end of the world
@@BrickHouseBuilds I found one for $250 but I’ve got no other vehicle atm and it’s a two and a half hour drive so imma try.
Just started following this, but I can't seem to find EP2., does it exist? Caught my interest because one of my earlier bikes was an original 1969 CB750 "sandcast" (yes , I know they were actually "permanent mold cast", not "sandcast" as they were known) which I bought in the early 70's in mint condition. It was the same sort of greenish blue as the one that you have. Wish I still had it.
Hey Bruce, this is EP3 in the series and the last time I have been able to work on it a couple months back. I have everything broken down into playlists by bike. This one will soon be back in the shop though to actually make run.
If you haven't already done it, please don't sell it to anyone else but me 😄, I've always wanted one since the first time I rode a CB Honda that had been seized lol, but I couldn't find any and had to settle for the later models starting with a CB900FZ. Thanks awesomely for your great show and very well done unseizing job, I always use "Rostoff" it's like magic from a bolt that's about to break to (after lunch) it's finger tight, I have no idea how it does it 😀.
Thank ya Simon! I'll put ya on the list 😉
Can see why it’s seized , because it was owned by the same person that fitted those exhausts to a Honda 4 , one of the most iconic motorcycles ever made ,with one of the most iconic 4 pipe exhaust systems.
Id argue the 400f 4into1 may be the most iconic but regardless both are nice looking systems. I do however feel waaaaay too much value is put on these 750 pipes as the cost is just stupid at this point making any restoration attempt pointless.
Bout 35 years ago…. I had the same thing happen to a junk 71 Pontiac Catalina…
I wasn’t as lucky
Could NOT break it loose
Chained car to tree, And A chain to a torque converter bolt.
Massive force didn’t break it loose…threw it away
Thats no fun!
You have two of the most sought after bikes on the planet In that CB750 and the cbx. Keep them both and even if you never get around to restoring that cb750, you won't lose any money on it ...just the opposite.
CBX I won't argue. This CB750 is not the best resto candidate in my opinion with how common and cheap they are. I'll likely modify this one a bit but nothing crazy
@@BrickHouseBuilds have you seen the prices on cb750s. I've seen them draw 15000.00 at auction for ones built after 1969 (non sandcast). If you do the mechanicals yourself and the reassembly , you could do quite well one one. The paint is expensive yes but labour is the biggest cost in a resto.
@@BrickHouseBuilds if you decide to sell.....what range are you thinking for price? I just might be able to be persuaded. Ya never know
@@elmerfudd1086 I just haven't seen later sohc bikes bring that. Id have 10k in this thing real quick on a restoration and id estimate if I listed it when done I wouldn't even get that.
@@BrickHouseBuilds i could see that 10k if you outsourced the mechanicals but powder coating, tires , engine rebuild if you do it yourself, a seat cover and new exhaust (4 into 4 ) i cant see breaking 6 to 7 grand. I saw a sandcast sell for 30g's last summer. I know there will be a few other things but even at your 10g's I still think you would be ahead of the curve in terms of resale. But its your bike and like I said. Depending on price I might be into it. Gotta clear it through home management of course. Keep in touch though guy. Im interested to see what you do with this and also hope to see vids on that 6 banger. Be safe. J.
Very nice!
wow I bought that same bike new at Honda House in VA back in the day for $800
Dude, this a real nice machine how can you not want to tare down the top end... it's a real good looking bike 🏍 not mention one my favorite one, my first real bike was 76' CB 750 SS and for seven years all I did was dream 750 all day long... you have a real nice part of motorcycle history in your hands.. why not do it some real justice here... you can bet anybody that has, had a 750 Honda would love to see you respect the 750... I hope you do.. You want to sell it, try selling after you have worked 💪 it real good... I bet it will be a lot more greater a sell... anyhow am just a silly old fool... I'll keep an eye on your channel to what may happen....ok.
Hey John I tried to explain in he video multiple time why I was doing what I was doing. Definitely take a look at even just my latest 5 videos to understand all that I'm working on right now. I'm doing a full restoration of a cbx which I'm "doing justice" as well as customer custom builds as well as service work, as well as running the business. This bike is not a high priority bike and other projects take seniority. I had only 1 day to drag this home and try to unstick the engine and not longer to remove and rebuild the engine.
I hear you... this was the first video of yours I seen.. it seems you are keeping busy... I will subscribe to your channel and check you out, and maybe learn a thing or two... must be nice to be able and willing as I remember it used to be for me... take care and enjoy 😉
One way or another, freeing the engine was mandatory. How much more is it worth with a rotating engine?
Id say I could sell this for 750 on a good day but I will simply keep this as my own to ride
@@BrickHouseBuilds
Yeah, keep it and fix everything to make it road worthy. I'm intrigued to see if the engine will heal itself after some hours and a few oil changes. This bike has just the right amount of patina.
Agreed!
Your very good
Thank ya Carl
What are you doing with the CBX?? I have two.
Have a playlist here: Honda CBX Restoration: ruclips.net/p/PLerq_C5Llt2xSGwXYI6Jfpf9urToXvXZ2
Okay, now I'm pleading with you :) IF you don't HAVE to sell it, DON"T!
Not planning to sell it. Just making some progress on it! I plan to enjoy it
Excellet! I have a GL500 that is seized so this gives me some hope.
Definitely inspect what you can before trying to crank on it! I knew this had stuck rings so decided to give it a shot!
So if you had more time and wanted to make this bike your own, when you got those pistons finally moving little by little would you have taken the top off and honed those cylinder walls and maybe replaced the rings? I’m in the same situation with my cb550F, it’s got diesel up to the spark plug holes atm. Just wondering how much I should turn the crank before I pull the top off and get to cleaning that crud out. Thank you, great video!
So to best answer your question I actually suggest you keep watching the series. I make the bike run and now ride it daily. I show A/B testing of cylinder condition with a camera and compression figures. Lots of info as I go with this one.
@@BrickHouseBuilds awesome! Definitely going to keep watching but I wanted to get that question in as I only had time for that video. I’ll try to keep you updated as my 550F works on getting freed up!
I would like to pickup a few old bikes. Old sohc 750 Hondas or 900 or 1000 z1s
As would I!
My first big bike after passing my test on a 250 superdream.
CB 750 classic
whats become of this? did you ever get it running??
Its patiently waiting in the warehouse still. It should run after a carb rebuild, fresh fluids, and going through the ignition system. Still hoping to make it my rider this season
i bought a new 74 CB750 new for $1,800 . LOL i had a CB350/4 i traded it in on the CB750
Why don't you use the kick starter?
So to not break the Kickstart mechanism and get a more direct mechanical leverage on the crank. Its never a good idea to jump on the Kickstart
@@BrickHouseBuilds thank you, Sure, not jumping. But you apply a very large momentum on the bolt's thread near the points.
I spoke directly on that in the video Marco. That is why I removed the stator cover to get access to the crank on the other side. Using the kickstart is a bad idea here.
I have a 1981 CB 650 (4) in mint shape but gas tank needs cleaning out the rust. What should i use to remove the rust from the gas tank inside ??????? same color also blue
My first go-to is always electrolysis. Its more gentle and works great. You would have to look up some info on it but I use the method all the time
After trying to break it free with the wheel. I would have suggested taking off starter gear to begin with, which you got to anyway. And if you had a breaker bar, instead of a torque wrench, wack it at the end in reverse, rotating the engine backwards. It looked like the piston was already halfway up, so going backwards would free it easier, instead of going against the rust. And hopefully if the rust was bad, would not damage the walls and rings when the piston would come back up. Not sure if the rotor assembly took much of a beating, or if you plan on replacing it? Fitting the prybars in there would have been my last case scenario. But you did it with success, so kudos!
I appreciate the input but I did not use a torque wrench. You see me try exactly what you said with a breaker bar in the reverse direction but if I were to hit that I 100% would have broken the bolt and caused more problems. I've done this exact method with my prybar in the rotor before again with success. The rotor took no beating as I was as gentle as I could be with it. Every placement was strategic and great care was taken. In regards to the piston being halfway up I could not confirm what stroke it was on so no idea as to if it was moving up or down. There will likely be some residual cylinder wall rust evidence but I'm willing to give it a shot as I'm in this bike cheap and have access to other engines.
@@BrickHouseBuilds Ah, I had to watch that part again. Your arm was sitting right inline with the breaker bar, and the small releases made it sound like a torque wrench. Apologies for my misunderstanding. I haven't had to go so far as using prybars, but good to know that they are still a safe way to go. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Just came across your channel last night, and looks like you've put a lot of good content out. Looking forward to watching your videos
@@2WheelsSometimes1 It happens no worries. I hope you like all the stuff im cranking out as I have plenty of it for sure 👍
Put the machine in gear and try to bump it back and forth,... gently 😉 Or put a torch directly on the cylinder where the pistons are seized.
see my pinned comment
i hope to see this run
I hope so too. Being that its all there I doubt I'd sell it before trying to fire it off
I agree
, the top end will have to come of as the piston’s have be exposed to the elements, yes new ring’s definitely, also check
The cylinders for scoring or sign’s of damage, if so rebore might be in order, also valves inlet exhaust check. So if all ok.
New caskets points also, the correct spark plugs not some make do, as some people I have seen do, clean carburettor, and air filters
New oil in gear box, other thing a battery ect ects, you should be good to go.
To even remove the valve cover the engine needs to come out. If it comes out the whole engine gets a rebuild not just a top end.
Can motors seize from cold weather? Mine seized after a month !
A factory engine I do not believe could seize from temperature alone. Condensation causing rust could seize it though.
I was thinking maybe you could use an oil filter wrench on the cranks left side to try and free it up
I have a variety of those but there is no way they would have gripped hard enough to have a shot at this
If the oil filter wrench doesn't work, what I have done is use a chain wrench built onto vise grips. Lock it on the rotor, and you can wiggle it in both directions to free it up. You HAVE TO BE PATIENT. Given enough time and a penetrating oil called Super-eez, you should be able to free it.
How would you break it free with the rear wheel?
When in gear the wheel is directly connected to the engine via the clutch.
Would this be the same process for a 'modern' honda cbf600 engine with no kick start?
I mean yes and no. More time could be taken. Inspect as much as possible before you attempt to free it so you know what the root cause is
@@BrickHouseBuilds thanks for the tip and taking the time to reply 🤛