I had 2 British Viscount Aerospace bikes in the 70's with the infamous Death Forks. So I always look below that bottom split ring and inspect the crown to steering tube area junction.
This a great tip with regards how to disassemble these bearings, I never realised, thank you. However I bike in sunny and (mostly) dry California/Pacific NW and have removed and re-seated a cane creek headset I have for more than 8 years and I just greased the outsides of the races/seats/bearings and never repacked the bearings. This maintenance is enough to keep water and dirt out and keeping the bearings smooth. But it's good to know when the time comes I can repack these bearings instead of replacing them. By the way I am a big fan of cup and cone bearings and try to use hubs which still use them, which seems to be mainly be shimano and campagnolo (campagnolo sadly don't seem to sell individual hubs anymore). With proper maintenance those last forever and feel so smooth.
Hi, if I swap my caged bearing for loose bearings then do I fill all of the bearing cup with bearings. I have heard people say you fill it with bearings (the first and last bearing put in are touching each other) then remove two of the bearings. The reason for this is to allow the bearings to move freely. Thanks and great video as always.
That’s interesting, so I’m guessing you have an open type headset bearing and rather than use balls in a cage you just want to put balls in without any cage? Personally I don’t see any major advantages to doing this, I wouldn’t bother. You aren’t going to gain any performance benefits as far as I can guess and maintenance will get much trickier. But if you really want to do it you first have to make sure you have the same size balls as before. Then you are going to need plenty of thick grease in the cup, to stop them rolling away while you put them in. As for the gap/no gap. You need a small gap, otherwise the balls will grind against each other. I’d put as many as will fit and just make sure there is a slight gap between the last 2 balls you put in. In theory you are increasing the number of balls in the headset over the cage type so you are spreading the weight of the system over more balls anyway.
Reginald, you mean spraying GT85 all over the front end like there’s no tomorrow, whacking the steerer tube out with a big mallet and then hacking at the bearings with a screwdriver is not the right way of doing it? 😉😀
Well the ultegra 6800 is much lighter and is more race focused with the shape and shorter RD cage. (More aero) The Crank set is more open and is much easier to clean than the 105 crank. Also the 6800 has the traditional FD with the long swing arm so it is slightly easier to shift than the 105. But the 105 R700 doesn’t have the crank defect of the Ultegra! (So it’s safer and more reliable.) and the RD cage is bigger and therefore you can use a bigger cassette as standard. 30T rather than be limited to 11-28. Also the FD is much easier to set up than the older 6800 designs.
It shouldn’t make any difference to the spring or the head, the force from their perspective is the same. the only difference it makes is it’s harder for the user. So why do I do it? 🤔 The reason I don’t hold the handle is because this cheap wrench doesn’t have a locking handle and it easily rotates! So to avoid changing the settings while using it I unfortunately have to hold it way up the shaft. 😁
@@stevenaaus Um!? I respectfully disagree…The torque wrench pivots close to the head. Obviously, the closer the force to the fulcrum differentiates the force required to apply a set torque amount…..There’s plenty people on YT showing this in practice
I love it. I do this, yet it is all the things we are told not to do. ie. Don't overpack bearings. Don't disassemble cartridge bearings. I always put too much grease on. The more the merrier. But for customers we just sell them a new cartridge bearing for about £20 plus labour. Ooooh !!
Yes well the key is knowing when to break the rules. So for wheel bearings obviously you don’t pack them with grease but in this situation it’s actually a good idea. 😊👍🏻
19:27 There is some audio missing from the video at this point. But it’s nothing important.
I had 2 British Viscount Aerospace bikes in the 70's with the infamous Death Forks. So I always look below that bottom split ring and inspect the crown to steering tube area junction.
Good work, is it a design problem of that particular bike? 🙂
This a great tip with regards how to disassemble these bearings, I never realised, thank you. However I bike in sunny and (mostly) dry California/Pacific NW and have removed and re-seated a cane creek headset I have for more than 8 years and I just greased the outsides of the races/seats/bearings and never repacked the bearings. This maintenance is enough to keep water and dirt out and keeping the bearings smooth. But it's good to know when the time comes I can repack these bearings instead of replacing them. By the way I am a big fan of cup and cone bearings and try to use hubs which still use them, which seems to be mainly be shimano and campagnolo (campagnolo sadly don't seem to sell individual hubs anymore). With proper maintenance those last forever and feel so smooth.
Thank you, I’m really glad the video was helpful to you. All the best! 😊
You use a calcium grease here. If I don´t have that can I use Muc-Off Bio grease or something similar?
Sure, yes what you feel is a good proxy. Anything that’s got a bit of thickness to it so it stays put.
Hi, if I swap my caged bearing for loose bearings then do I fill all of the bearing cup with bearings. I have heard people say you fill it with bearings (the first and last bearing put in are touching each other) then remove two of the bearings. The reason for this is to allow the bearings to move freely. Thanks and great video as always.
That’s interesting, so I’m guessing you have an open type headset bearing and rather than use balls in a cage you just want to put balls in without any cage?
Personally I don’t see any major advantages to doing this, I wouldn’t bother. You aren’t going to gain any performance benefits as far as I can guess and maintenance will get much trickier.
But if you really want to do it you first have to make sure you have the same size balls as before. Then you are going to need plenty of thick grease in the cup, to stop them rolling away while you put them in. As for the gap/no gap. You need a small gap, otherwise the balls will grind against each other. I’d put as many as will fit and just make sure there is a slight gap between the last 2 balls you put in. In theory you are increasing the number of balls in the headset over the cage type so you are spreading the weight of the system over more balls anyway.
Reginald, you mean spraying GT85 all over the front end like there’s no tomorrow, whacking the steerer tube out with a big mallet and then hacking at the bearings with a screwdriver is not the right way of doing it? 😉😀
Well who’s to say? 🤷🏻♂️ 😉
Hey bro! What is better shimano ultegra r6800 or Shimano 105 R7000
Well the ultegra 6800 is much lighter and is more race focused with the shape and shorter RD cage. (More aero) The Crank set is more open and is much easier to clean than the 105 crank. Also the 6800 has the traditional FD with the long swing arm so it is slightly easier to shift than the 105.
But the 105 R700 doesn’t have the crank defect of the Ultegra! (So it’s safer and more reliable.) and the RD cage is bigger and therefore you can use a bigger cassette as standard. 30T rather than be limited to 11-28. Also the FD is much easier to set up than the older 6800 designs.
@@reginaldscot165 I'm in sora groupset now. I'm thinking to an upgrade what do you recommend ultegra r6800 , 105 r7000 or ultegra r8000?
Hey Reg, loving the vids but I think you should be holding the torque wrench on the handle to get correct torques.
Dun't think so mate.
It shouldn’t make any difference to the spring or the head, the force from their perspective is the same. the only difference it makes is it’s harder for the user. So why do I do it? 🤔
The reason I don’t hold the handle is because this cheap wrench doesn’t have a locking handle and it easily rotates! So to avoid changing the settings while using it I unfortunately have to hold it way up the shaft. 😁
@@stevenaaus Um!? I respectfully disagree…The torque wrench pivots close to the head. Obviously, the closer the force to the fulcrum differentiates the force required to apply a set torque amount…..There’s plenty people on YT showing this in practice
Torque settings are for dry fasteners. Reduce torque applied by 20-30% for lubed fasteners.
That’s correct, there are different settings for wet and dry bolts. 👍🏻
I love it. I do this, yet it is all the things we are told not to do. ie. Don't overpack bearings. Don't disassemble cartridge bearings. I always put too much grease on. The more the merrier. But for customers we just sell them a new cartridge bearing for about £20 plus labour. Ooooh !!
Yes well the key is knowing when to break the rules. So for wheel bearings obviously you don’t pack them with grease but in this situation it’s actually a good idea. 😊👍🏻