😬 3 Things YOU NEED to know before! 😬 SELF LEVELING concrete! How to do it yourself or pay SOMEBODY
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I have done quite a bit of work with self levelling compound and have on occasions done 30 X 25kg bags settings on my own with a glass flat finish . It definitely takes the know how to do a floor of this size though the key to the success is most definitely preparation preparation preparation! Here's the method I have used and has never let me down , I have seen the mistakes that can be made and how badly it can go and these are the steps I use for a big floor ,
I choose to work by myself on all of these steps to prevent any dirt/Dust moving around or being walked in and out of the space and the only time someone else helps is if needed to help pour the bags in the mix , make sure they are clean and have clean shoes and stay out of the room if possible . If any dirt gets walked onto the PVA it will result in the levelling compound bubbling and leave a poor finish .
- sweep and hoover the floor
- hoover the floor again 3 times
- once you think the floor is spotless and dustfree , hoover it again 2X more times . This is your best friend for a good finish.
- if self levelling onto concrete use a PVA at a strength of 4 parts water 1 part PVA 24hours Prior to pour.
- if self levelling onto a smooth surface like old quarry tiles etc I use a plasterers pregrit followed by a PVA coat as above to give it a better key
Before pouring -
I mix up the levelling compound in a new 100liter black round dustbin 5 bags per mix . The bin at this point weighs about 120kg so this is hard graft manoeuvring it around and care must be taken .
- prepare your water and bags for ALL mixes before mixing anything.
If I know I have 25 bags to mix I will set them around the room in lines of 5. All bags are to be sat up straight, rip the tops off all the bags and line them up along with a bucket of your required water amount per 5 bags.
So at this point you have 5 sets of 5 bags at different points of the room with 5 buckets of water. All the bags are open completely at the top so as you are moving around the room mixing you only have to lift the bag and pour into the bin, saves a lot of time and stops any rushing when mixing as that is when you will make a mistake for sure .
The floor must be freshly PVA'd for the second time and start mixing as it goes tacky.
By this time you should have your lowest points of the room worked out which is where you will pour 1st and also your exit trail out of the room needs to be thought about.
- when mixing be careful not too over mix and to mix correctly ( easier said than done , but this is what works for me )
When pouring the levelling compound in, I have just the head of the mixer on full blast in the water and pour the powder directly onto the mixer head, throw at least 3 bags in this way before plunging down into the bin. The last 2 bags again keep the mixer head towards the top of the mix before plunging down to the bottom. This whole mixing process should only take 2-3minutes max until you get a thick creamy consistency as opposed to a watery mix. If your mix takes 5min+ you've failed and overmixed and it will go off quicker resulting in lines in your pour, or a full bin of solid leveller which can happen very quickly.
-Pour as much out of the bin tipping it forward and moving left and right ,
- I trowel the self levelling compound into the corners with care and run the 16" plasterers trowel back and forth as if I were flattening a freshly plastered skim coat . I repeat this process moving back out of the room so not too stand on any of the floor.
When troweling it you shouldn't be scraping the concrete you are just trying to level the compound ontop so long smooth gentle sweeps across does a better job.
Half way through I go over it back and forward with a spiked roller .
Continue untill you get out of the room and you should have a perfectly level floor that is as smooth as glass.
A couple of points to be ware of,
This size levelling will need at least 2-3 men if doing in temps above 16° c
But can be done by 1 person during the colder months .
When using 3 people, 1 mixing 1 trowelling and 1 pouring/spike rolling.
I wouldn't risk doing more than 5mixes in one floor pour so you will have to either seperate sections and infill once dry or multiply the number of bins/people used.
Great explanation deserves to be pinned to the top
@@TheCrazyRomanian awesome
Thankyou for your advice, can I ask a question, I'm underfloor heating my ground-floor, half is concrete and have is timber floor. On my timber floor I have 23mm floorboards all screwed down and ont top of that I have glued and screwed down a 6mm ply and onto of that I will be put pro plus plastic panels which are 15mm depth. The manufacturers are saying just put 18mm self level compound on top of that and that will be ok. I'm worried about screening a timber floor. Also the company thats going too screed it they said it won't be bang on level is that the case or should I insist it has too be bang on level
Sr you should make a video cause that sounds perfect lol
Van this be done on wood floors?
Thanks
(A) rent a mixer
(B) use an industrial floor squeegee to spread the product uniformly
(C) some areas will require more than 1 layer
(D) use spikes on your footwear!
(E) invest in a porcupine roller to break surface tension as product is curing
Pouring one bucket at a time and relying on gravity alone is a user error. Tools make everything go easier.
It's pretty simple 😆 all he needed was the squeegee. Also if your doing tile over this it the spots won't affect the tiles or even hard wood floors.
THANK YOU for pointing out the downside of leveling larger areas DYI. I’ve placed concrete floors in a few dozen residences and this clearly describes the specific technical limitations. Small batch mixing of concrete gives wildly INCONSISTENT RESULTS. An electric concrete mixer is the only way to mix enough volume to get a level floor. A Bull Trowel on a pole and a Float Trowel are needed as well. You are very kind to have made the effort to make and post this truthful information.
I love the honesty with this video! I’m so tired of “DIY” put on everything, and then it turns out bad because it wasn’t as easy as they made it seem.
Except a lot of the time is is as easy as it is made to be, the problem is that usually only dumb people do it, fail at it, then blame it on the product or that the process isn't 'easy' enough.
Like bro, this is literally just pouring some concrete onto the ground and pushing it around for a couple of minutes, how difficult can it be?
@@Lolatyou332 the preparation is the neat/tricky part. Not the pouring.
Squeegee ONLY the very top level. Do NOT attempt to dredge up anything from below the surface because self-leveller dries faster under the surface and has already partially solidified. If you attempt to squeegee below the surface you'll bring up solidifying chunks that you can't address until after it dries.
I’ve seen lads on site making the barrel out of a dustbin with a tap fixed to the bottom and sat on a caster dolly to move it around, worked well and better than the ones you buy because you control the flow of the liquid. Cost about £60 and a couple of hours knocking it up.
Good tip
I really appreciate your honesty. I was beating myself up about how I did it since I was doing it by myself. It was very hard work. You guys did great. Thanks for posting.🥰
Complicated? get a garden hose or a bucket of water, make puddles on slab(LOW SPOTS). wait 5 minutes. take crayon draw around edges of puddles or low spots. break open a bag of floor leveler. I like Feather-lite: make a mix, with a flat trowel, inside each crayon area or low spot add water with a sponge little at a time, like a milk shake not like water!!!! feather to edge. of mark.
if you have deep spots you want to fill: Drywall screws or nails are great leveling points. pour to desired height of nail or screws. 😎
You're the boss!
remember he said you need 3 of your "Best" friends. I used 3 of my normal friends and they didn't mix well.. now i got a floor with 3 large lumps in the middle.
😂😂😂😂
Haha nice
Critical points. We need to all highlight "best".
lol
Need smaller friends next time
I've been concrete resurfacing for 20 years and self levelers take a certain know how/skill all of their own...you need to be fast fast...fast! You need someone mixing, another pouring and spreading..if you just pour out of bucket and don't gauge rake and spread it, back roll with spike roller,, it will look just like this.
It has to be spread evenly with gauge rake then quickly smoothed..all within roughly 5 min of pouring from bucket. (When the bag says you have 20 min working time, that is a joke)
Pour lines will happen if mix sits on floor for more than 5 min or so before next pour is placed...gotta be fast
The dude didn't measure out properly. He poured it then sat looking at it. While his mate was looking at him instead of mixing the next lot and getting raking. With no masks either
Saying that I might end up doing it my self my floor is all over the place and we can't get workmen in as there's a huge shortage of professionals.
@@Odo-so8pj this guy took the word "self leveling" literally, if he look up any video people are always raking it to help the material spread around. I honestly think he didn't do enough research upon using the product
it looked like pish water...i pump the stuff day in day out and hippo mix and lay, we do finshed polished 10-15mm 0verlays and like you say its a skill you need to be fast and acurate...
From my experience laying floors there are no self leveling screeds only self smothing screeds. You have to work the material on the ground. If you identify your low points beforehand you can pour the material into the low areas first. Different depths will result in different surface textures as the fillers drop leaving a more liquid surface.
Thank you, I'm soon to begin remodeling my garage and this is the part I'm most incertain about. This definitely helps me ask the right question and have the right concerns.
We need more people like you just keeping it real
Interesting video. Now I can understand why I had difficulty getting a tiler for my 5 X 4 metre room.
There is a raised piece in the floor between the living room and hall. Around 18 inches square. I'm going to try and level it out with the angle grinder before the tiler does his job.
Thanks for this video - the tips were super in warning me of the pitfalls. I completely agree with several comments that you made - 1) You need an assistant to mix the product speedily, preferably two assistants for large quantities. 2) Indeed, self levelling concrete/cement is generally not a 'finished surface' because the individual buckets poured have variations in colour and cloudiness, so it will generally always require some kind of finish to make it look pretty and also 3) There will likely be small air bubbles that have to be filled afterwards with a suitable product. NOW HAVING AGREED WITH YOU... I also have to add that this is a very simple DIY process in my opinion. I used DINGO SELF LEVELLING CEMENT and it was absolutely fantastic and easy to use. The polymers in any self levelling cement also make it stick to a surface very very well compared to unenhanced cement/concrete.
For a small area, it's really easy. Mix with a little more water than recommended (good tips in the comments on the HD web site). Mix for the recommended time and then pour. Immediately move the mixture around with something to break the tension and move the liquid into the corners. I basically moved it all around a bit with a float to break the surface tension. That was all. After it dried, I put a level on it and it was flat. I was able to find a couple sport that were maybe 1/16th of an inch out of level, which is not going to be a problem in any situation.
Thanks for your honest experience - it helps with all my planning. This will help me to do a better job. Thanks.
great post... I was about to do this myself.. and am now re-thinking my approach room size is 5m x 4m need a 5-8mm level pour to perfectly level the floor for a drop in polypipe underfloor heating system. Great share.
Thank you so much for this video. It helps to hear someone give their REAL experience.
I totally agree, and it is even more challenging if you pour over plywood subfloor that pulls moisture from the mix. A tip is to use the coldest water you can, as that gives more time and better flowing.
So a winter job
Uuuh. If your plywood is absorbing a lot of moisture from your mix, it means it isn't properly primed. You NEED to use a primer designed for use in plywood and follow the manufacturer's instructions on how much to use.
@@gredystar8333 I did use the primer that was recommended by the manufacturer but maybe I needed 2 coats? The mistake I think that hurt me was turning both taps on to speed up filling the plastic garbage pail I was using to mix as the luke warm water caused the cure time to be quicker. Maybe it is the insulative properties of the plywood as opposed to cement which pulls heat out and slows the cure time?
Very good video! Thank you for taking time to post the ‘true-real life’ experience.
I totally agree with you. Try using spike roller to spread the mixture after it’s poured
Thanks so much for pointing out the difficult parts. We're getting ready to level the bathroom floor and those are issues we didn't consider. We even have a huge barrel we can use to mix the compound but we didn't think of it.
I worked for a day last week helping a friend pour self-levelling compound in a basement suite. Boy was it hard work. A lot of preparation. We had 2 large barrels of water plus multiple buckets filled and ready, then 3 bags together at multiple locations and we used a bin to mix in. 3 bags per bucket of water. We just needed to keep working fast once we started and my friend was super-stressed until it was all finished. (the bags cost CAD$50 each so you don't want to waste them)
Kinda stressful but we got it done in a little over 30mins once we started mixing. If I was doing a lot of this type of work, i'd definitely consider buying a machine or at least one of those bins on wheels.
If you're doing it DIY you better have some help. Those bags of compound are 50lbs each and you use a lot of them
Me and my son have done 24 sqm and no issues. the key thing we learned was
- two persons do separate dedicated tasks - one is mixing and second one is pouring and working the mixture
- right tools - big tall plasterers bucket to mix, good mixer and spiked roller. roller wad esential so we don't have diffrences between the buckets
We use a team of four, using 55 galon barel as mixing bucket than pump it with small sewage pump with speed controller to a 1" reinforced hose than spill it to floor. 1 person job to spill, 1 to rake it so fast to prevent bubble , 1 to dump SL concrete to mixer and 1 to mix to good consistency.
Prep is the most excruating job, and time consuming one. For primer as good bonding agent using PVA 1:4-5 depend on ambient temp and humidity. Average daily we can cover 1000-1200 sqm. Replacing hose every 8000-10k sqm.
Absolutely right. I messed up my 3 buckets because I couldn't pour them early enough and they set in and became completely wasted. I tried mixing them again with a lot of push and pull of my mixer and got back pain.
I pour one bucket which wasnt mixed well and wasn't able to self level. If I kept pouring, it would be a greated mess so I decided to pickup the compound and put back in the bucket while other 2 buckets were already set and wasted.
I am happy that I saved myself from a greater loss and finally decided to install titles for leveling my garage floor. Tiling is a lot easier and gives more control while time is on your side unlike self leveling compound.
I like this video as it's explaining the absolute reality to save people from damaging their time, money and health.
The smoke came out of my drill while mixing. As everyone knows motors run on smoke and when it comes out it fails. So by the time I got the other drill set up it was setting up. Also done during a heat wave. I tried to water down and continue, very stupid. Should have aborted instead spent the next 8 hours removing the failure. No one mentions the option of aborting if it goes wrong. I highly recommend considering a point of no return, like when pilots on runway on take off, there is a point where you can still abort and start over without cleaning up a huge failure.
I am a commercial vinyl layer and I can tell you. You need to use a quality selflevelling compound to get an even pour. Also I've been in the industry for 15years and have only used 3 buckets of mix at a time getting some1 to mix buckets firstly mixing up all 3 buckets and then start pouring. While 1 bucket is poured and empty that bucket is quickly mixed while the person pouring is trowelling the first pour to smooth it and then pouring the next blending the next pour to the first pour with a trowel minimise edges of pours, and creates a more better flow of the lvls in the floors. There is definitely a nack or skill involved its not a matter of mix pour and leave. Otherwise you will definitely get high spots and low spots.
Thank you. I’m going to be very careful while I’m doing this myself. Seems like I need some friends to help.
Great video. I’m doing a project about half that size. I think I’m ok with the cm variation from one end of the room to the other because I’m putting down LVP. I must say though, this is very useful information. Just knowing what I’m in for to get the floor level enough for the flirting I’m putting down. I’m not a perfectionist so it’s all good, but you’re right, no other codes let you of this type of mistake. Thanks!
Glad it helped
i agree it is a lot harder than it looks. I used 2 bags from menards one day and then 2 bags from home depot the next day. working by myself. i followed mixing instructions to the letter. Neither mix was as liquid as i expected. I now have some humps i have to file, san or grind down. Maybe i should have use a four foot squeegee to move it.
Your video is accurate from my experience. Honesty on social media is refreshing. Professionals do this type of work regularly building knowledge and experience which is required to make a level and smooth floor. After self-leveling nearly 1000 sq ft myself (not a pro), I'm going back by hand to grind out bumps and fill gaps in between buckets before installing a finished floor. Should have hired a pro. Yes, I'm doing the flooring myself, but LVP looks pretty straight forward.
Pros do it sometimes worse
Just done the same thing, same results
Buggered now really as i was planning on floor titles
I did it by my self and it came out perfect. first time i did it. 33 five gallon buckets.
thats the trick
My kitchen floor is all sloped everywhere ~250Sq ft, I was able to get it down to where it's "ok" after like 2 weeks of work, even had to grind out 2 high spots I created by mistake(10hours of work) , also needing to raise joists, and Install new loaded walls. But perfection is basically impossible sometimes, I still have some 1/4inch slopes in maybe 4 small areas. I'll be installing concrete subfloor on top, so everything should workout with all the thinset etc.
The biggest problem sometimes is where the new tile needs to meet an existing floor to make sure both are level without needing to rip out all thefloors from your house, literally.
Very, very good advise Sir. I did this with one other person bag at the time and did not get good results. After laying LVP when finished I still had low spots where floor planks would not locked in securely. Now I'm faced with a second application after removing 3/4 on the floor.
Nuts ., I made it work but I can feel it where it didn't level properly
Your advise help me a lot, that make me rethinking not to do it by myself. Thak you so much, save my time and money
Appreciate this. I was about to try to tackle a room about the size of the one you showed. Definately need to give this some more thought.
Make a big batch and pour fast, it will level nice... I wish I knew it before I've done it
You should have masked off sections that 1-2 bags would cover. Before doing any job like this one involving heavy items and mixing, watch many videos. This is a valuable video in that it shows why masking off is important. Thank you.
Brother, THANK YOU FOR KEEPING IT REAL!!
Good stuff bro! Very detailed video! A lot of ”DIY” RUclips videos just SHOW how to DIY stuff and only explain the PROS but not the CONS.
Thank you for sharing your experience... Sadly I saw the video after having the same experience with ours.
Thanks for the important information before I start our showroom Project. Thank you
Thanks I tried to do myself was a disaster...I mixed way too long and it came out like a slurpee and didn't move lol
Can you tell me what you used to scrape it up? Doing mine soon and sure I'll end up fluffing it up.
You need a squeegee or trowel to spread it out its self leveling but it dries too fast to just let it sit. You need a better mixer and buy better material best around is the mapei. A bit of bonding adhesive rolled on before and into the mix helps too
Saying and showing the truth is always the best way to help each other’s, thank you for share your experience with us!
You dont just pour and go... you still have to spread it manually
Self leveling you just pour and go...
@@TheCrazyRomanian see how well that worked out 🤷♀️🤷♀️
Why didn't you use a cement mixer?
@@TheCrazyRomanian you really don't though. Lol. I've poured 50+ floors with self leveling compound. You're right that the bigger the mix, the easier it is - we used a 30 gallon barrel with 3 bags per barrel and 2 guys to flip it over onto the floor, but then you've got to spread it with a concrete rake (kinda like a squeegee) into all the corners/etc, and more importantly (the reason why you got all the splotches) is that you need to mix the pour together at the edges. We typically blended at LEAST 2-3ft into the edge in each direction between pours, but even better is if you mix large areas together, raking it back and forth. So if your pour results in a 10ft square, you'd pour 2 10ft square, so you end up with a 10x20 rectangle and then mix from the middle of the 2 pours 5-7 ft in each direction. Then add another pour to the side of that and mix 5-7ft in each direction. Etc. And even if your batches aren't perfectly homogenous, after you mix it all together as you're spreading it, you'll end up with a homogenous mixture that looks like glass/a lake of self leveling compound.
The self-leveling part is really more about what it does AFTER you've poured it, spread it out, mixed it together well and then walk away. You push it into all the corners/etc manually with a concrete rake, and then as it cures it all levels to a perfectly level surface.
@CMTeamCobra that needle roller isn't the same as a squeegee or a roller neither does it do the same job.
Can you mix 3 buckets at once and poor them one after another? I have an area 120sf to do in a room that is about 360sf. I'm laying some very large tile down and its important that the floor is level beneath it. I ask because I'm doing this by myself.
nice to have an honest review for a chnge
Would raking eack bucket of concrete into the corners across the whole floor solve the problem of leveling from corner to corner?
You area great guy. I thank you very much for sharing your real life experience.
Hi great video, what ratio to water did you use in liters per bag, Cheers
Thanks for bringing the reality to my life! For keeping it real!
Thank you for sharing your experience.
Some things are better left to the pros. Coming from a concrete professional, this is one of them. As you can see there are a lot of variables to think of. Not to mention that is a lot of square footage for even two professionals with the proper tools. Home Depot and RUclips can cost you a lot of money by making it look easy.
Now with the experience I have, I would try it again with a barrel
I love thee honesty all these other guys in these videos say ohhh it’s so easy or they just make it look easy
The hidden side of the truth
Do you need to use this if you’re installing tile on a concrete slab ?
Ty Ty Ty. Proved my point to spouse with this video!
He poured then sat and looked at it 😂
You can do a second layer, even a third layer. That will get rid of most of these problems.
Thanks for the heads up man. 👍
Very informative, thank you for posting.
How thin can it be for a wood floor to be put over it
thanks for your thorough explanation.
Not sure if you mentioned using a squeegee. I'm guessing that would help even out the color in different shades or blend in the area of spots where you can see where it was poured.
I keep reading this stuff starts to set in ten minutes and you have to mix each bucket for two minutes. That means, at best, if I have to use 20 bags on one floor then the first few buckets will be well on their way to hardening before I can get around to pouring the last few. I don't see how that would work!
You would be working in one direction. The far end will be setting once you're worked away from it. It doesn't get poured and set all at once. Hard to explain but you'll see.
You need to use height gauges, either adjustable tripods, os screws into the floor. Then you can check levels as you work across the room.
Thanks man, appreciate the heads up. I wonder if the technique of filling the lowest point first would have given you better results.
Unfortunately no. Even on a flat surface it will only spread out so far. Also you cannot feather into nothing. It is meant to cover an entire floor, not just patch certain areas. You will always have a slightly rolled over Edge that will require patching later, unless you cover from wall to wall. Best way is to start at one end of the room covering wall to wall. He outlines a few of the issues, but the biggest one is not mixing exactly as the manufacturer States. You must mix one bag to the proper amount of water. The only other way would be to weigh everything out exactly. Professionals won't even do that. He didn't have enough material either. The entire floor should have been coated.
I agree the guidelines specified by the bags of selflevelling are a professional guide but the amount of water used for each pour does vary depending on temperatures of the room and so forth and how thick you need mixes in areas you need to build up and what not. But ultimately the guide is the recommendation. And you need to adjust the amount of water according to your job. Sounds confusing without showing
We did the mixing work perfectly - everything laid out before, all bags cut and ready to pour, all water measured out. Mixing 330kg in 12 mins: happy with that. But then when I poured it and pulled the screed around the room, something went wrong. I knew where all the low point were. Used a spiked roller as well. I didn’t find out until afterwards but the centre of the room was low and there are whole sections that are higher. The tolerance is 5mm and I’m really upset. I used a float on a pole, but wish I’d used the long 72 inch float to get it bang flat. We used screed tripods and I hoped they would help but actually they just prevented me from using the extra long float. So gutted. Not sure how to resolve it now.
the water mix was different. the light colour is over watered. one of the buckets you poured was way to runny. need a pull thru gauge and a spikey roller. you can see these buckets were dumped and left. using a pull thru gauge will blend the mix and a spikey roller will smooth the transistions between mixes. this size room can easily be done with single mix buckets.
The guy standing there watching you pour the concrete should have been mixing another bucket or two or three buckets. Then you blame the manufacturer? It's just not being applied properly...IJS
Just got to this post guy, you have all been awesome in opinions. My project starts very soon off a 25 sq metre ballast concrete workshop.
It is 10 inches thick base and been layed 15 years ago it has a crack going across the equal length and is out 40 mm with concrete floor paint that is pealing/loose in places which i will hard broom thoroughly prior to keying. My first attempt, I am a perfectionist and will be upset with myself if it turns out horrid. But I am a believer in my faith. Any advice would truly be appreciated guys.
This weekend of Saturday and Sunday 1st Oct 2nd Oct 22
Can be done ...just use big buckets
Thanks good honest video. Hard to find on any topic.
Shame bout the inconsistent bag mixes that you got. I watched lots of videos before doing my kitchen/dining room. Fortunately it came out great. I used an acrylic primer with a latex SLC/smoothing compund mix. A trowel and a spiked roller helped alot with spreading it out and blending the next mix in. Definitely glad I had a friend mixing as I would never have been able to do it alone as the stuff dries fast!
Thanks! This is very helpful!
Nice video to help understand the risks and uncertainties.
Sure is.. A crap shute
@@TheCrazyRomanian looks like result is good enough.
Hi what happen when we fuck up our planipatch :'( my husband just did this on our presswood subloors we bought some lpv and we cant instal this we see all of his truel mark :'(
And always check cover holes and put wood or something to hold leveler where u want to stop
your right , i tried it hard work
I'm looking for someone that levels floors in Las Vegas anyone have recommendations?
Did you just pour? Or did you use a roller with spikes?
Soooo...you just poured it and left it? 😭 It has nothing to do with the size of the bucket. Many mistakes were made here. Good video though.
thank you! I wondered if it was too good to be true.
Yeah it's not as good as they make it sound ...
i asked 3 of my best friends they said we arn't friends anymore
🤦🏽♂️😜🤣🤣🤣
My tile guys best friends never showed up lmaooo
When should you use primer?
If you see the price you will use regular concrete mix and just use a bull float to smooth it
Lol 😂 never in my life seen it done this way !! There is specific instructions on each bag . With the water ratio and dry time . Luckily it was not for a client !! . You are supposed to use a brute 44 gallon drum to mix to bags at a time . The floor fully primed and your squeegee at the right high. As you spread it . Someone should be mixing the other batch . A roller is used to erase the lines . This products are sold at amazon (underlayment tools )
Thanks man !
Thanks alot for sharing the video. I think you have been leaving some silt residue in the bucket that accumulated, if not then that brand should exit the market.
Awesome man. I love it
I just watch the video right before this one where a guy had a 55 gal plastic trash can that was on Wheels and he added a piece of wood to raise it up and he cut a hole out to put a PVC pipe in it with a spicket and he mixed everything in the 55 gallon drum and he just trickled it all over the floor genius
If the floor is really uneven and with humps and bumps u need to use a lazer and tripod or glue down packers to the lazer line
What I've seen on other videos is someone going over the floor first with a grinder to get the major high spots out. But I think you could have got bigger buckets, I have an area smaller than what you were doing but in my mind i was thinking I need a bucket 3 times the size of yours. I think you could have the buckets all mixed and move some of the liquid from one to the other to lessen the degree of colour variation.
Could not lift them, I've tried, 2bags with water are f-ING heavy man
@@TheCrazyRomanian mix them right where you're about to pour them, or within 10-15ft. Then you can roll the bucket on it's edge to where it needs to go, and then literally just flip it over onto the floor. Then rake it out to where it needs to go.
Thanks a lot man!
I have dark and light spots in mine like this video. What does that mean and why does that happen
The sand doesn't mix with he concrete as well in some places
Couple things that stand out from watching video. No need to rent mixer..., big mixer with paddle and buckets are enough. Levels should be shot in b4 pour and spike shoes and roller a must. Simple movement with trowel of material will allow for it to travel. Think of liquid as little rolling balls..., that need to be pushed back and fourth by a trowel to set itself. Start from deepest point on floor that has been shot in. Alot of that discoloration is from the bubbles of different mix of water and material not escaping.
Thank you for giving me this insight!
I was going to do this then looked at the cost. 30 bags, primer, and getting it mixed and poured without it setting up. I used wood and premixed costed me around $250. The pour $800 to $900. And I could keep up
You are absolutelty right dude.
Is it supposed to be watery like that? All the videos I’ve seen showed a thinker consistency.
Tocmai am avut un semi eşec ieri cu self leveler 😅 Învățăm din greseli si reparam. Salutari din celalalt capat al statului Nevada. Multumiri pt video 👊🏻
Așa se învață .. acuma știu păcat că deja e gata terminat
thanks very much for speaking the truth.