Always drill end of crack to release stress in it, then weld it up, if would cut oval area out, weld in a patch, then used flat stock over it, dont think even towing would have hurt it
I have a 1994 GMC Sierra 4X4 with the side step bed. I just got it from my 88 year old mom who has had this since it was brand new. I am considering having the body redone. This truck is Amazing. No cracked frame on hers, thankfully
This makes me miss my old 1997 GMC Sierra Z71. Drove that thing for 4 years 5.7 vortex loved it. Now I have a 1995 F150 and I'm very happy with it. I can say both the Ford and GM trucks of these years are amazing.
Can wait for this build! I have three of these trucks. They are the exact opposite of the Jeeps you normally work on; they are a great vehicle. Here is what you should do: weld the frame up (easy fix and i think they make a frame kit for this model), pull the engine out and throw it in the nearest lake and put in a 00 to 06 5.3L ( this is a very easy swap and will get you around 25mpg and 330whp with a stage 2 BTR cam), while the engine is out go ahead and rebuild the tired 4l60e (it will need it with the extra hp the 5.3 puts out.) These trucks are really going up in value and you having a regular cab short bed (RCSB) with the floor shift 4x4 is one of the most sought after.
You won't get 25 mpg lol. Cam and heads can get that 350 to crank out over 400hp for cheap and easy. These are easy to carb swap instead of messing with efi LS swaps are always more expensive than you think lol
I'm from Mn so know all about working on rusted cars and trucks. I even had a '90 C1500 that was in almost identical condition. I really like your enthusiasm for fixing that up and finding any good things about it! For youtube content this truck is perfect, from the standpoint of having a truck to actually use well let's just say it's worth scrap value :)
Btw cracked frame tip. Use a square piece of steel. And turn it like a diamond and weld it over the crank. It's how we always patched 18 wheeler cracks
I found lightly tapping the bleeders with a hammer helps loosen them up. I always put a little bit of ceramic/silicone grease on the bleeder threads (the same grease you put on the back of the pads).
I once worked in a Auto Body shop, one thing I learned there is never weld on a frame or try to fix one, The rule is the entire frame has to be replaced and bye the look of the rust on that frame you need a new frame or you can just part it out as junk .
Thanks for the shout-out bud! Damn that interior is in great shape! It's not very often you find a dash that's not all busted up vehicle that old out here in the California desert the dash just disintegrates
@@DEInTheGarage my uncle in idaho buys busses out of carolina, flys guys out to get them, and they last another decade out there.. .. so yeah, if the $$ were big enough, it does make sense..
Wow, this truck is almost IDENTICAL in every way to my '95 Chevy Silverado Z71. Clean interior, same dashboard, buttons, etc. Mine has been sitting because it has a cracked frame like this one but I feel it's still got about 100k miles left on it if the frame wasn't cracked. Engine is fine and I actually had a factory-new transmission installed before I parked it (last time gas prices were $4/gal). I'm wondering if it's worth trying to save it, with vehicle prices through the roof right now.
the problem with the weld-it-up-grind-it-down and repeat method is, if you dont have good fusion of the first pass you just end up with something that looks filled.
Seeing what you have going on here, Makes me feel so much better about the tiny hole I patched and plated over on my s10 above the rear shackle, I’d let the truck get towed, Drive it on the highway all of that, In fact I believe I went over kill for what I had lol
Have any advice for new DIY welders? I have a precious vehicle that means a lot but there’s some spots here and there. Shops either charge out of my budget or won’t do it.
Amazing to me how vehicles rust out in the NE I'm in Utah and haven't seen that intensity of rust. I do wash my jeep twice a week in the winter. My 1990 250 4x4 Ford has rust but solid.
Great video and great save… when trucks were trucks and not space shuttles… “Sundays best” is too wordy…. Maybe “Bishop” or “pope mobile”… something like that.
Question , which weld is best , wire or the stick weld . Looking to buy a weld machine , never weld before ....eager to learn. Working on 1989 gmc sierra, k2500 ...plow truck ..chasis has no cracks , alot of scale of metal ....I wanna reinforce the rear cross member .and weld few spots along the chasis to reinforce it completely. Thanks
My first thought was a quote from everybody's favorite movie Roadhouse "she's a runner". My second thought was whether that 350 would fit in an XJ a la Novak Conversions.
If I had watched this 2 hours earlier I'd definetly call her Sunday. as I was watching you work on her whilst sippin on a silly soda on Sunday the seventh at seven.
If you just give the frame a good brap with an air hammer, on a solid part of the frame, it will rattle off most of that heavy rust scale in seconds. It's not perfect, but you can knock off 80% of the bad scale instantly, which makes whichever slow fussy method you use after, soooooo much easier, hah.
I was so interested in watching your video then I seen your flux core welding. I hate flux core welder’s, but one thing is for sure if you were going to use a flux core welder you need to preheat the steel, at least a propane torch
in 10,000 years, archeologists will be trying to determine what cataclysm caused the 5in rust deposits in the core samples of dirt across the northern part of this hemisphere.
Gotta heat the threads on the caliper itself. Heating the bleeder itself isn't going to create the thermal shock your looking for. Caliper is going have a bubble if you can't get it out. I think you're close.
@@geraldfahey2681 I just drill a hole in the top first to make sure there's no pressure. You can also cut them with a metal cutting jigsaw blade, they don't spark
Here in the Carolinas (west of the coastline of course) there are a lot of Chevy/GMC 1500s still on the road due in part to a lack of structural rust. However, I have to say that SOMETHING was screwed up when it came to the frames of the trucks of that era. While many, if not most, of the '90s to early 2000s 1500s that I have run across were still "straight" for the most part, I often see them "bent" in the middle which would seem to indicate either a design flaw or the owners/previous owners tried to turn a half ton into a two ton load capacity pickup. I always look forward to your videos even though I would be classified more along the lines of a "Monkey With A Few Tools That Nobody Wants Working On Their Vehicle" kind of guy. Take care and keep the great videos coming!
I know a guy that would occasionally tow round bales to town with his 90's k1500. The scale usually showed 20k lbs. A lot of guys tend to push the truck they have well beyond what is legal let alone sane. Bending is preferable to cracking.
I replaced my Chevy single ply cardboard rear diff cover!! haha. Thanks for inspiring me to save the TrailBlazer.... I got one plate welded on so far. Hopefully the local welders can fix any holes that appear again - but so far just thinning metal. I think 1/8 inch is solid? haha. What do you think. I like the way you test to see if it's solid - no sledge hammer.
My 2000 Toyota Tundra is literally the same, First half of the truck is good, second half literally turns bad real fast. Im gonna cut parts of the rotted frame out and fab my own frame with some Steel! Great video, what welder did you use?
I have read that truck frames are made of heat treated steel which welding could damage. Drilling might be an issue too. I'm no expert. Just passing along the information thinking it could be real.
Yep. Hobart Handler 140. I love it to death. Eric has the Lincoln 180 which is nice because it will burn 1/2”, but my Hobart puts out a better product after using both
So my 91 Jeep XJ was rear ended way before i bought it in 2010. The frame was pushed back/accordioned about an inch which raised the spot where it accordioned about a 1/8 inch into the trunk area.. The axle is shifted alittle to the driver side but not noticeable unless you really look. The back hatch is off some but it closes fine.. I have been wanting to fix the frame problem for ever but I don't know if it would be worth it. Any thoughts..
In my experience, fixing unibodys on XJs (and similar) is not that hard if you have some patience. A come-along and a tree as a fixed point will usually get you pretty darn close. I believe Project Dan H has a good video of this process on his ZJ
@@DEInTheGarage. Watched it and this will be fun. The struggle will be real and many F bombs will be said. But in the end it will be worth it no matter how much this is going to cost me because I kind of want to restore it.
AvE fanboy detected 😅, hes an awesome emgineer, so I dont blame you. NJ representing😎👍🏼, great video, but I would had tried to fabricobble a whole new frame, which is why im learning how to weld, I want to save at least 1 pickup truck in my lifetime.
Couldn’t one lift up the truck and sand blast it to remove all that rust? Isn’t the rust going to just continue to get worse if it’s not removed and a coating of some sorts placed on it? It wouldn’t cost much at all for one to sand blast it themselves
Drill just beyond what appears to be the end of the crack, maybe use a strain-gauge to confirm the end of the crack, or DOT PIN labratory testing, or just stinking eyeball it and drill a round hole (so there's no point of stress, as the circle spreads it out sufficiently to help mitigate the force's concentration sufficient to stop most problems). There's something called "Small Crack Theory," I ship you not, I was reading about it in a horrible research paper that didn't help me weld my truck frame, and there's a lot of research on the topic of stopping crax, so it's a lot to figure out, maybe find someone with experience or just give it a shot and watch to see if the repair cracks at the edges of the plate you weld in or whatever. Good luck.
Why don't you remove the platform and fenders, much easier to weld the frame. Never weld on top of rust. And the frame needs to be repaired, you have to try to find a frame so intact that you can weld it properly. And before you start cutting the rusted frame, remember to support the frame.
Fuck yeah! 🤘🎶 How comfortable are those seats though? My 94 Sierra GT lasted at least 280k. I sold it at 280k because I didn't feel like putting a 2nd fuel pump in the thing. You could always turn it into a flatbed.
@@salvatorebaleno9807 That L hurt, but I do believe we are building for the future.... to bad we wasted a top 3 defense the last few years "finding our way" offensively
@@DEInTheGarage Most definitely we are building. And yeah wasting that defense is hard to swallow. At least Da Bears always seem to have a great defense (except Trestman era), and I'm confident we could always bounce back, if need be.
Careful everyone... we have some South Jersey TRASH in the building Just kidding! lol Call it whatever you want as long as I can have it on a bagel with egg cheese, salt pepper, and ketchup!
This ain’t the channel for you, softie. Try googling “safe space” should be more your speed. Here we let the screaming eagles tell us if our repairs are sound (spoiler, this one was EAGLE APPROVED)
![Repairing a Rusty Frame on a GMT800 Truck [Cheap Duramax Part 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YK8Mq6HWOwI/mqdefault.jpg)
![Repairing a Rusty Frame on a GMT800 Truck [Cheap Duramax Part 2]](/img/tr.png)
Always drill end of crack to release stress in it, then weld it up, if would cut oval area out, weld in a patch, then used flat stock over it, dont think even towing would have hurt it
Thanks. Need this advise .
Never weld before .
I have a 1994 GMC Sierra 4X4 with the side step bed. I just got it from my 88 year old mom who has had this since it was brand new. I am considering having the body redone. This truck is Amazing. No cracked frame on hers, thankfully
This makes me miss my old 1997 GMC Sierra Z71. Drove that thing for 4 years 5.7 vortex loved it. Now I have a 1995 F150 and I'm very happy with it. I can say both the Ford and GM trucks of these years are amazing.
If you can keep the rust off 'em these trucks will go forever!
Have 93 ck 1500 with frame issues and broke line blew too. Wanted to get it on the road again. It's my plow truck. Love it.
Can wait for this build! I have three of these trucks. They are the exact opposite of the Jeeps you normally work on; they are a great vehicle. Here is what you should do: weld the frame up (easy fix and i think they make a frame kit for this model), pull the engine out and throw it in the nearest lake and put in a 00 to 06 5.3L ( this is a very easy swap and will get you around 25mpg and 330whp with a stage 2 BTR cam), while the engine is out go ahead and rebuild the tired 4l60e (it will need it with the extra hp the 5.3 puts out.) These trucks are really going up in value and you having a regular cab short bed (RCSB) with the floor shift 4x4 is one of the most sought after.
How do you get 25mpg in a 5.3??? I m trying to get 22 in my Yukon with a 5.3 lol
@@83countrysquire What rearend are you running? Also mine has the 5 speed and i am referring to the GMT400 model which is much lighter than your 800.
@@jeremydawkins8399 I have 3.73s yeah I was thinking about that after I posted lol
You won't get 25 mpg lol. Cam and heads can get that 350 to crank out over 400hp for cheap and easy. These are easy to carb swap instead of messing with efi
LS swaps are always more expensive than you think lol
These are the best truck chevy ever made!!! Definitely worth saving.
I agree! She has some miles left on those floor mats for sure!
and boys and girls, ALWAYS drill a hole at the end of every crack to prevent further cracking after the repair.
Yep thats right
I'm from Mn so know all about working on rusted cars and trucks. I even had a '90 C1500 that was in almost identical condition. I really like your enthusiasm for fixing that up and finding any good things about it! For youtube content this truck is perfect, from the standpoint of having a truck to actually use well let's just say it's worth scrap value :)
Greetings! I agree this is a perfect truck for some RUclips content
You ever fixed a frame?
Btw cracked frame tip. Use a square piece of steel. And turn it like a diamond and weld it over the crank. It's how we always patched 18 wheeler cracks
I found lightly tapping the bleeders with a hammer helps loosen them up. I always put a little bit of ceramic/silicone grease on the bleeder threads (the same grease you put on the back of the pads).
That is a really good idea. IF I get these out I will do that for sure
I once worked in a Auto Body shop, one thing I learned there is never weld on a frame or try to fix one, The rule is the entire frame has to be replaced and bye the look of the rust on that frame you need a new frame or you can just part it out as junk .
Thanks for the shout-out bud! Damn that interior is in great shape! It's not very often you find a dash that's not all busted up vehicle that old out here in the California desert the dash just disintegrates
Maybe if we get the west coast and east coast together we can collectively put together a 100% solid truck!
@@DEInTheGarage my uncle in idaho buys busses out of carolina, flys guys out to get them, and they last another decade out there.. .. so yeah, if the $$ were big enough, it does make sense..
Wow, this truck is almost IDENTICAL in every way to my '95 Chevy Silverado Z71. Clean interior, same dashboard, buttons, etc. Mine has been sitting because it has a cracked frame like this one but I feel it's still got about 100k miles left on it if the frame wasn't cracked. Engine is fine and I actually had a factory-new transmission installed before I parked it (last time gas prices were $4/gal). I'm wondering if it's worth trying to save it, with vehicle prices through the roof right now.
You're right as a Floridian I wouldn't know what to do with that much rust lol
I have seen ya'll cars and the difference is crazy!
the problem with the weld-it-up-grind-it-down and repeat method is, if you dont have good fusion of the first pass you just end up with something that looks filled.
Finger crossed i got her burned in on that first pass then 😉
Seeing what you have going on here,
Makes me feel so much better about the tiny hole I patched and plated over on my s10 above the rear shackle,
I’d let the truck get towed,
Drive it on the highway all of that,
In fact I believe I went over kill for what I had lol
Have any advice for new DIY welders? I have a precious vehicle that means a lot but there’s some spots here and there. Shops either charge out of my budget or won’t do it.
@@briizcustoms9543 Find a frame with no rust and swap everything on to it
Salt is thy enemy, WD-40 and rust reformer is thy friend.
Amen!
That blue tool is a pole lineman’s wrench! Fits four sizes of square bolts and makes a good hammer too!
Love my 1999 dodge ram 1500. Rusted as hell. Spending summer working on her
This guy has a great attitude that's the kinda workers I like to hire in my shop.
Phew, even I wouldn't have touched that truck. Good on you for seeing the value in it though, looking forward to part 2
Well you seem to tackle to properly rusty stuff as well! I imagine I do it for the same reason you do.. that challenge!
You're killing me Smalls!!
Hate new GM with a fiery passion but I love my old GMT400s. They always have a little fight left in them.
This one certainly does.... Also I share that passion for new GM products.....
This is the kinda stuff I get excited for!! Hope you had a great Halloween with the family!
Thanks! You too!
halloween and this truck, match made in heavin
Amazing to me how vehicles rust out in the NE I'm in Utah and haven't seen that intensity of rust. I do wash my jeep twice a week in the winter. My 1990 250 4x4 Ford has rust but solid.
Yea bud. People who havent experienced it assume we just never wash our vehicles, but that isnt it. You just cant stop it
@@DEInTheGarage fluid film helps somewhat, fall application..
You can call her candy cane because she is red, white and mint!
Great video and great save… when trucks were trucks and not space shuttles… “Sundays best” is too wordy…. Maybe “Bishop” or “pope mobile”… something like that.
LOL... I think I like "bishop".. very dignified for the old timer
I have some frame patch panels and crossmember if you want them.
You mind emailing me so we can chat about it? dandeoffroad@gmail.com
Question , which weld is best , wire or the stick weld . Looking to buy a weld machine , never weld before ....eager to learn. Working on 1989 gmc sierra, k2500 ...plow truck ..chasis has no cracks , alot of scale of metal ....I wanna reinforce the rear cross member .and weld few spots along the chasis to reinforce it completely.
Thanks
My first thought was a quote from everybody's favorite movie Roadhouse "she's a runner".
My second thought was whether that 350 would fit in an XJ a la Novak Conversions.
You are a bad influence!... That said, 350 XL please!
Nice repair so far she has some life left in her yet .Thanks for the video enjoyed that
21:39, was worried you were going to blow up that gas can near the cutting wheel, but you survived!
Yea, I noticed that in editing... I am glad that didnt go sideways. Wife always says "just dont blow up the garage and I dont care what you do"..
@@DEInTheGarage it would have made for interesting content 😃
If I had watched this 2 hours earlier I'd definetly call her Sunday. as I was watching you work on her whilst sippin on a silly soda on Sunday the seventh at seven.
Man and i thought my 76 Jeep J10 was rusty.. and it was.. but this thing.. is unsavable imo
I like the interiors of the 88-94 GMT400 trucks
great content man! very authentic & love the expressions, sayings, one liners lol keep on rocking man!
Nothing a bit of steel and a welder can't fix. I had an 89 that ran for 300 k.
Oh,and the spare tire carrier will be seized solid . Cut it off and throw the spare in the box. Never mind. I finished the video it already gone.
And just ditch the rear bumper. It wouldn't help in a crash anyway.
You bring up a good point about the tire carrier and bumper. it is best to just forget the existed at this point
Have any pictures of it?
If you just give the frame a good brap with an air hammer, on a solid part of the frame, it will rattle off most of that heavy rust scale in seconds. It's not perfect, but you can knock off 80% of the bad scale instantly, which makes whichever slow fussy method you use after, soooooo much easier, hah.
I was so interested in watching your video then I seen your flux core welding. I hate flux core welder’s, but one thing is for sure if you were going to use a flux core welder you need to preheat the steel, at least a propane torch
in 10,000 years, archeologists will be trying to determine what cataclysm caused the 5in rust deposits in the core samples of dirt across the northern part of this hemisphere.
Gotta heat the threads on the caliper itself. Heating the bleeder itself isn't going to create the thermal shock your looking for. Caliper is going have a bubble if you can't get it out. I think you're close.
hammer, heat, liquid wrench, cycle,more heat
I've been using the steel from expired propane tanks to repair frames up here in Atlantic Canada.
Even if the tank is empty can it still blow up if you start cutting it up with a grinder!fumes?or no.......?
@@geraldfahey2681 I just drill a hole in the top first to make sure there's no pressure. You can also cut them with a metal cutting jigsaw blade, they don't spark
@@Boycott_Wendys 👍
Keep it hot weld up hill if possible
Here in the Carolinas (west of the coastline of course) there are a lot of Chevy/GMC 1500s still on the road due in part to a lack of structural rust. However, I have to say that SOMETHING was screwed up when it came to the frames of the trucks of that era. While many, if not most, of the '90s to early 2000s 1500s that I have run across were still "straight" for the most part, I often see them "bent" in the middle which would seem to indicate either a design flaw or the owners/previous owners tried to turn a half ton into a two ton load capacity pickup. I always look forward to your videos even though I would be classified more along the lines of a "Monkey With A Few Tools That Nobody Wants Working On Their Vehicle" kind of guy. Take care and keep the great videos coming!
It is the craziest thing.. this truck is so clean until you get to the back 1/3 and it is GONE.
@@DEInTheGarage I looked at a truck this vintage not too long ago. The front frame horns were solid, but the back of the frame was rotted.
I know a guy that would occasionally tow round bales to town with his 90's k1500. The scale usually showed 20k lbs. A lot of guys tend to push the truck they have well beyond what is legal let alone sane. Bending is preferable to cracking.
I felt like the truck was going to collapse as he got busy with the hammer. Lol
that wrench in the crate is a Linemans wrench
I replaced my Chevy single ply cardboard rear diff cover!! haha. Thanks for inspiring me to save the TrailBlazer.... I got one plate welded on so far. Hopefully the local welders can fix any holes that appear again - but so far just thinning metal. I think 1/8 inch is solid? haha. What do you think. I like the way you test to see if it's solid - no sledge hammer.
My 2000 Toyota Tundra is literally the same, First half of the truck is good, second half literally turns bad real fast. Im gonna cut parts of the rotted frame out and fab my own frame with some Steel! Great video, what welder did you use?
great video, subscribed!
Maybe you should scrap the truck and buy a good welder
You damn well better believe it can!
EDIT: Meh, nothing some cuttin' and weldin' of fresh metal won't fix. 👌
Give me a grinder and a welder and there is nothing I cannot accomplish
@@DEInTheGarage
My motto: I can't weld good, so I weld a _lot_ .
Amateur hour on the welding, but you got the job done!😅
Why can't the manufactorers just simply bah the frames in zink ???
Just saw gmt400 manual for $1200 chassis still has part number tags but front end reck
I have a completely solid 95 1500 she'll ext cab I'd let you have but it's in Wyoming
Dang.. I wish I was closer to Wyoming! My sister is in Montana, but that doesnt help much. haha
@@DEInTheGarage yep would still be pretty hard to get it all the way to Jersey
I have read that truck frames are made of heat treated steel which welding could damage. Drilling might be an issue too.
I'm no expert. Just passing along the information thinking it could be real.
What welder do you have? Hobart 140?
Yep. Hobart Handler 140. I love it to death. Eric has the Lincoln 180 which is nice because it will burn 1/2”, but my Hobart puts out a better product after using both
That's nothin....you should see this 94 xj I'm workin on lol. It's more rust than jeep. But im savin it by god
So my 91 Jeep XJ was rear ended way before i bought it in 2010. The frame was pushed back/accordioned about an inch which raised the spot where it accordioned about a 1/8 inch into the trunk area.. The axle is shifted alittle to the driver side but not noticeable unless you really look. The back hatch is off some but it closes fine.. I have been wanting to fix the frame problem for ever but I don't know if it would be worth it. Any thoughts..
In my experience, fixing unibodys on XJs (and similar) is not that hard if you have some patience. A come-along and a tree as a fixed point will usually get you pretty darn close. I believe Project Dan H has a good video of this process on his ZJ
@@DEInTheGarage. Watched it and this will be fun. The struggle will be real and many F bombs will be said. But in the end it will be worth it no matter how much this is going to cost me because I kind of want to restore it.
Decent job, you should have drilled a hole where the Crack stopped to prevent further cracking, but other than that it was a decent job!
have similar issue with cracked frame, any chance you would help out I’m out in jackson NJ
Woo hoo #1, but that frame looks roached
Anything can be saved, with a large enough wallet.
And a little hillbilly engineering
mmm doa vid
50:38 An "8 inch Mayer plow on the front" isn't gonna push much snow...
LOL... good catch.. I meant 8'
use a needle scaler to knock loose rust of . Much better than a hammer.
Really interesting, everyone is saying I have to junk my 2007 Ford b/c of one crack. I wonder now?
so the weight reduction program was let it rust them beat the scale off?
What, no burn out?! she's a chevy. give er hell.
Welding a rusty frame is like using a machine gun short bursts are best
AvE fanboy detected 😅, hes an awesome emgineer, so I dont blame you. NJ representing😎👍🏼, great video, but I would had tried to fabricobble a whole new frame, which is why im learning how to weld, I want to save at least 1 pickup truck in my lifetime.
Couldn’t one lift up the truck and sand blast it to remove all that rust? Isn’t the rust going to just continue to get worse if it’s not removed and a coating of some sorts placed on it? It wouldn’t cost much at all for one to sand blast it themselves
I'd say that's a job for a laser rust removal device. They do an amazing job when used correctly.
YOUR DANGEROUS !
11:40 "mean and nasty implements of destruction"
Kid, I want you to go over and sit down on that bench that says Group W
Drill 2 holes . Put a steel plate over it and bolt it. Easy fix
I wonder you could have done a frame swop and have the frame coted to prevent this from happening again
Pull that bed and, DIY a flatbed for it! "You don't have to worry about a cracked frame."
Hehe.. If it doesnt sell that is ABOLUTELY what is going to happen
Good luck with modern vehicles with HSS frames and structure, they are more complicated to repair.
Bell wrench lineman tool
re stress points, dont use right angles on the patches
Could have at least cut the plate to size and clean out all the surface rust and under seal it
How many miles is on that bad boy?
Buddy it's time for the junkyard,, you need to put your efforts in to something that's going to pay off
Drill just beyond what appears to be the end of the crack, maybe use a strain-gauge to confirm the end of the crack, or DOT PIN labratory testing, or just stinking eyeball it and drill a round hole (so there's no point of stress, as the circle spreads it out sufficiently to help mitigate the force's concentration sufficient to stop most problems). There's something called "Small Crack Theory," I ship you not, I was reading about it in a horrible research paper that didn't help me weld my truck frame, and there's a lot of research on the topic of stopping crax, so it's a lot to figure out, maybe find someone with experience or just give it a shot and watch to see if the repair cracks at the edges of the plate you weld in or whatever. Good luck.
🤦🏻♂️good luck 😎👍
I thought my 94 f- super was bad shit and it’s from Michigan lol
Well it’s first “drive” didn’t end with the wall stopping it.... so it might have a chance
Rip lake effect
I see you correctly identified the root cause of me taking this truck on.... Lake Effect Guilt....
So if this is its older brother. Should it be called blizzard or nor Easter 🤷♂️🤣
Heyyyy, this can be Lake Effect’s replacement
Why don't you remove the platform and fenders, much easier to weld the frame. Never weld on top of rust. And the frame needs to be repaired, you have to try to find a frame so intact that you can weld it properly. And before you start cutting the rusted frame, remember to support the frame.
Fuck yeah! 🤘🎶 How comfortable are those seats though? My 94 Sierra GT lasted at least 280k. I sold it at 280k because I didn't feel like putting a 2nd fuel pump in the thing. You could always turn it into a flatbed.
Dude... I almost watched the Bears Niners game on my phone from the front seat of that truck it is so comfy!
@@DEInTheGarage glad you didn't. After that loss one could be so inclined to huff exhaust fumes.
@@salvatorebaleno9807 That L hurt, but I do believe we are building for the future.... to bad we wasted a top 3 defense the last few years "finding our way" offensively
@@DEInTheGarage Most definitely we are building. And yeah wasting that defense is hard to swallow. At least Da Bears always seem to have a great defense (except Trestman era), and I'm confident we could always bounce back, if need be.
never better use of a 2 x 8?
Ah-Hem! PORKROLL egg and cheese.
Careful everyone... we have some South Jersey TRASH in the building Just kidding! lol
Call it whatever you want as long as I can have it on a bagel with egg cheese, salt pepper, and ketchup!
i have a like new 1996 GMC sierra 4x4 2500 extra cab with a new motor 0 rust come buy it
LOL... email me dandeoffroad@gmail.com. No guarantees, but I am always looking
Don't worry it's just structural 🤣
Why the arc sputtering??
i would have made a diamond plat on it & flat stock on back side burn it thou thats just me
7:26 Looks like an "attitude adjustment tool" to me.
Just because you can doesnt mean you should. There are proper repair procedures for a reason
This ain’t the channel for you, softie. Try googling “safe space” should be more your speed. Here we let the screaming eagles tell us if our repairs are sound (spoiler, this one was EAGLE APPROVED)
@D&E In The Garage you're big mad cause you did a shitty repair lmao? Irony is I'm not the one getting super butt hurt over a comment l
If you know what Taylor ham is you must be from Jersey.
Amen brother!
Shame that frame is busted.