How to Build Adjustable Alignment Bushings! Mighty Max Ep: 19
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- On a factory Mighty Max, caster and camber is adjusted using a variety of shims on the upper control arms. Thats annoying. I want Caroline's Mighty Max to be easily aligned like a late model Toyota 4 Runner!
In this episode, we install front lower control arm tabs and install Toyota alignment cam bolts. Now I'm actually looking forward to aligning this thing!
I really hope you don’t worry about getting videos out on a schedule. I enjoy them when ever you get around to making them. I look forward to using the tips and tricks I have learned from you when my daughter and I start building a truck together. I would hate to think that you are getting burned out trying to please people that cannot work with your schedule and life. Keep moving forward at your own pace.
Well written I agree
Thank you both. 🙏 Your words are very much appreciated. Worry not! I’m not burning out. Yet.
Here’s some potentially interesting behind-the-scenes info about RUclips. It’s not the viewers that demand a consistent schedule, but the almighty algorithm. RUclips rewards a creator that maintains a schedule with far more promotion than a creator that doesn’t. (I’ve tried both, and Garage Fab‘s recent explosive growth is proof.) The past couple months have shown me that doing RUclips full-time is actually a possibility!
Creating videos isn’t hard. Creating videos with a full-time job and a family is extremely tough! But if Garage Fab alone could pay the bills, maintaining a schedule would be a cakewalk. This is what I’m fighting for!
Like you, Garage Fab viewers have been the most kind and appreciative group of humans I’ve ever come across. So they’re worth fighting for. 🍻
@@GarageFab thanks for the explanation - this makes much more sense now.
@@GarageFab As Superfast Matt says "All hail the algorithm"
Quite true. Also accept it as your Lord and savior and sacrifice your first born for it. And preferably your second and third born as well. But still don’t forget to upload regularly!
I forgot about the router, but that is a great idea. Thanks for showing it again. Also, I'm glad I'm not the only one who makes mistakes. Thanks for keeping it real for all of us, and for taking the time to make these videos.
Thanks for watching!
I have to say. I saw the router idea and have now done it twice on my build in the last couple weeks nice watching the video. I love the concept of it and it works so well. Currently working on a rack and pinion conversion where I need to oval about a 1/4 thick metal. It's working amazing. Killer tip.
Happy to hear you’re getting some use out of it. I’m about to slap a router bit intended for wood in there and see how quickly the metal destroys it. I’ll let you know!
Your router tip is pure gold. A little tip in return. Use the cams to get the alignment done. After everything is where it needs to be, measure the cam bolt location to make a cam delete plate. I did this with 2"x1.5"x0.25" blocks I made to replace the cam. Drill a hole in the plate where the bolt sits in the cam. In the end, no more screwing up the alignment with the first wrong bump you hit.
I like that idea a lot. We see delete plates pretty often on off road vehicles. I’ll definitely be doing that if I see any alignment drift.
@@GarageFab I have 26 miles of dirt between my home and the first hard ball road. I would get 2 maybe 3 trips to town before I would start to notice it was off again. I almost got to the point I was going to just weld it in place. Then I stumbled a store bought cam delete kit, and thought, I can make that. About 2 hours of work later, and the problem is gone.
I've been contemplating starting a channel myself to show that even off grid with no garage, if you really want something, anything is possible when you set your mind to it. I have a couple hurtles to figure out first though. 1 is my lack of signal for uploading (feels like the good old AOL days out here). 2 I'm a wildland fire lookout. I actually move out to my tower for the summer tomorrow. That brings in a hole new set of challenges to overcome between time and when fire restrictions come into play. It's still possible, I just need to sit down and put some good thoughts to it all.
Alright ! It isn't just me that screws up like that. I caught it in time but you already made the vid. Great thatyou show your errors. Makes you as human as the rest of us. Again, GREAT teaching methods !
I used to be embarrassed by mistakes. If you look at earlier videos, you’ll notice I’m perfect. 😂 I learned it saves a lot of production time not having to re-record to cover up mistakes, and folks like you appreciate it, so it’s a win win.
Thank you, James!
Making videos can be a massive pain, that’s why I rarely do it. But, you’re way better at it, so I just leave it to the pros. For the most part. You were correct in saying they don’t need to be hardened. Once you walked that steel it will change the temper, and while it cools slowly, it’s going to normalize anyway. Great video as always brother!
Ahhh! Very good point! Never considered that. Even if they were soft like aluminum, I think they’d still be fine as they’re not much beefier than the factory Toyota 1/8 inch bent sheet metal stoppers.
Thank you my friend!
Even a mistake is interesting with you! Humorous style and skillful solution....... Waiting for the next....... Thank you Markus!
Haha! Thank you. I’m wrapping up the next one as we speak! See you soon.
Glad I could help! I am always impressed with your skills! You do more with chipboard and a hand plasma cutter than I get done with my table!!! Keep up the educational videos. You are a legit course on suspension setup and builds!
Much appreciated. I’ll be thinking up something else for you to slice up. 😉
19:11 thank you Marcus!! 🤠
Thank you marcus!!
The trick with the router just upped my game in the shop because I don't have a big compressor to run a good air grinder. Thank you very much for that tip ! 👍
not only is it a great way to get some spinning action, the fact that it gives you fantastically square cuts is an added bonus :D
My pleasure, Matt! Lemme know if it lives up to the hype.
So true, Klay. If you’ve got patience and a steady hand it provides machine-like edges.
You're fun, humble and very skilful - this makes you an excellent YTer in my book! Please keep up the great work, and I hope you manage to turn this into a full-time gig!
Me too, Sean!!! Thank you! It’s too much work (for a lazy person like me) to balance a day job and Tubing. One day!
You are appreciated my man.
I think I'll copy this idea on my Dakota. The factory adjustment is on the upper arm but is a pain to adjust. Plus having more adjustment can't be a bad thing. Great video as always. Keep it up
I feel ya, Bryce! Do a little shopping around for other eccentric bolts, or try and source them from a junk yard. 4 Bolts cost me over $200. 😬
Great videos. Enjoying watching you work through issues and solve problems.
Thank you my friend!
Great job so far! Glad to see I'm not the only one who has to redo things 😂
Haha! That’s how you get really good at things. Do everything multiple times! 🙌
Hey Aaron
Given your floor is not level have you considered using washers or shims to make the chassis level on the stands or even some screw adjustable stands.
That way you can set the chassis level and have all your datums true.
Great episode mate. Love your content.
Also love the use of a small hand held router with the carbide tips. that is a game changer for accuracy
Micheal, Sir, sometimes the simplest suggestions are the most brilliant. I never considered taking a few minutes to level the vehicle at the very beginning of the build. 🤦🏻♂️
It makes me wonder though, if that would cause problems with all the times that I measure from the floor to mount things. In other words 320mm up from the floor works for both sides regardless of level. 🤔
@@GarageFab yep that has merit also .
The reason why many chassis builders use a frame or table so that both are addressed.
Level and same datum plane.
We all cant make a frame but we can do either of the other two.
Word. As soon as Caroline’s truck rolls out of the garage, I start my truck which will be a ground up chassis so a small frame table will be built.
Router idea is brilliant.
Don't feel bad about gooching it.
I just finished a guitar refret, and drop a rather large mill file on the neck. Basically destroying two frets.
Haha! Good times!! 🤦🏻♂️
Thank you, Jonathan.
@@GarageFab Hey will those poly bushes squeak?
Yes! Poly bushings are notorious for being noisy. A grease fitting makes this go away.
The algorithm is definitely working. I have binge watched your videos the past couple days.
I love your method of building and fabricating. Simple and works. But I'm gonna have to ask if any of my tool trucks can get me some of those annular cutters you have. I need those in my life.
You’ll have to ask em! I’m sure they can. If not… They’re called Hougen RotaCut Hole Cutters. They’re kinda pricey but worth every penny. Here’s a pair of associate links to the two specific sets I own…
Small amzn.to/3guFEwJ
Large amzn.to/3ukxxL5
Thank you for your time, Sean!
Tip for working on a floor that’s not level if you feel up for another small project. You can make some custom stands with large threaded rod that will allow you to adjust each side or corner independently in small increments. This way on the side where your floor is lower you will adjust the stands a little higher to compensate and keep your truck level. Or you can just keep doing what you’re doing. 😂
Quite brilliant. If you don’t mind I’m going to steal your idea and create a video on creating adjustable stands. I think that could be really interesting.
For me personally, though my floor is slanted slightly, it is straight, so I rely mostly on squares rather than levels. (15 inches from the ground is the same in both sides regardless of the slant)
My next build will utilize laser levels so I’ll be building a low profile frame table. 👍
@@GarageFab yeah by all means! Curious to see what you come up with. It’s not my original idea either, I saw someone else do a variation of it but don’t remember where I saw it. Just filed it away for potential use later. 🙂
@@GarageFab Also fyi another channel you might like is Austin Niemela. He also does custom automotive fab work.
I’ve seen a few of his. Good shtuff!
thank you marcus!! 😎
love these videos, love the real world feel of things because we *all* have been there and likely will be there again.
the router tip is fantastic, i never would have thought that would work.
thanks again for another tutorial cram packed with knowledge.
My pleasure, Allen! Thanks for always coming back to watch. 🙏
Love that router trick. Much faster than dragging out the files.
It's a clever trick, but I think a file is faster for this application. High quality files remove material quickly and if you use a vise to hold the tabs, you can't take too much material off if you use the jaw as a work stop. I will concede that the router trick would be great for intricate shapes.
@@matthewpeterson3329 Good points indeed. I use files frequently for those same reasons. I especially like the level of control you have with a file. No bouncing around.
Bouncing with a carbide bit? Unheard of! 😂
@@ClintsStreetMachines You know, Jason at Fireball Tool has already proven that it makes no difference if you back-drag a file or lift between strokes. When is someone going to develop an adapter that fits a standard reciprocating saw, which also allows us to clamp a file tang, turning a Sawzall into a power file? Huh... when I ask!
I’m on it!
@garage fab Are these the tabs you were talking about? If so another easy trick is taking a piece of all thread with (2) nuts & washers in between the tabs and opening it up with a couple open end wrenches.
Nice to see you using Toyota cams on the lowers! They're super stout and make for easy alignments. On my offroad builds we usually swap them out and solid mount the lowers with a heimed upper control arm for adjustment. I've never seen one break but we do it just to keep a true alignment through rough terrain on oversized 37x13.5 tires
I have the same respirator just swap out for the 2091/2097 filter pads and your hood will fit over the mask.
Great work man! Keep going! Only one other suggestion would be to consider using fine thread bolts for all suspension points. You'll get a better torque spec 👍
Yes! Those are them. The all-thread thing is brilliant! Pry bars and screw drivers certainly didn’t work. 😂
I actually do use fine thread bolts. I didn’t know about Torque stuff, I just copy Toyota stuff. Shrug. I do have some sets of course thread bolts with non-nylock nuts that I use for mock-up/welding for easy install/removal. Thanks again, Anthony!
Always looking forward to seeing these videos. I started really getting into my 4g63 swap on my truck but no fancy frame work but it motivates me to get mine finished up.
How far have you gotten so far?! I’m hitting snag after snag. (I bought the wrong Eclipse apparently.) 😩
Hey, I've been using cam bolts on control arms on bagged trucks for a while. I now also use them on 4 links too. I use the ones from a GM 88-98 truck. Oreilly stocks them. Part number 87400. I also have cad drawings for the loops to go around the cam bolts and the slotted holes that can be applied to any job.
I used to have access to a plasma cutter so now I use sendcutsend for all my cutting.
If you need any of those drawings please let me know. I don't know if you remember me but I did the Mazda limo and the Dawgsled on the cover of minitruckin November 02
Thank you for that! I’ll look into them. The Toyota version was not cheap. My next build will require 8 of them so saving some money would be swell.
Funny, I intend to throw this thing on the alignment rack when I’m done and see how close I got with just measuring the rear suspension and left enough room in the tabs to convert them to adjustable bushings if needed. Probably would’ve been a good idea to just do it from the start.
Yes! I remember those trucks. Clearly you’ve been in this scene far longer than I have. In 02 my Mighty Max sported a targa top. (My biggest mod at the time) I didn’t know anything about suspension back then.
I use a cheap box fan on low to draw away welding fumes. it’s mounted on a collapsible tripod base so I can move it to where it’s needed
I like that! I might have to steal your idea.
I really feel your pain with those mix ups. The extra steps you're taking now with your design will pay off in the end. The control arm triangulation sounds similar to what Nissan hardbody owners do as well. Keep up the great work. Thank you for sharing!
Does Scraping Pavement have a triangulating video? I’ll have to check!
@@GarageFab he does. He also sells kits to triangulate the lowers and flip the upper arms too (only for Nissans though). Great video by the way. I always wondered how those style of adjustments worked
This video shows exactly what goes into building these trucks. When you have to make your own parts, things are bound to happen. It happens to everyone you try to do stuff quickly, then realize half the parts are wrong. I just triangluated my front arms on my Mazda, but waiting on my tabs from the local sheet metal shop.
Truth. There’s a military saying; Slow is smooth. Smooth is fast. In Fabrication words, slow the hell down and save time not having to do things twice.
What was your method to triangulate? I’m still not sure what method I want to use yet.
@Garage Fab I used a piece of all thread that fit into the lower arm. Used a nut and washer on each side to hold it tightly to the arm so it would be solid. Then I took the bushing I was going to trianglute the arm with and used another set of nuts and washers to get it where I wanted it. Once I had it where it went , used a piece of 1 1/2" dom tubing to join them together. I kept it all tied together until it was cool enough to handle. Once cool, I took it apart and remounted the lower arm on the truck, then just made a pattern out of 1/4 plywood and had the local shop cut them out for me. I made sure to measure the distance from the arm to the bushing to make sure each side was symmetrical. I believe I used a piece of 3/4 all thread that I had to use a flap disc on to get it too fit. I took out the inner sleeve for it too fit. It worked out very well and was a good fit for everything.
@@GarageFab I can try to get some pictures to you on messenger if you like.
No need Shawn! I can picture it perfectly. Well done!
Haha I can do backwards things but typically it’s only me that knows ,glad you can admit on camera things that many wouldn’t . Cudos to you fellow human 😂
Thank you, Keith!
Also, the Mitsubishi truck as you know has press in balljoints which make it difficult to make arms. However the Nissan D21 (Hardbody) has bolt in balljoints that both fit the Mitsubishi spindles.
Haha!! You’re going to giggle when you see the new video on uppers tomorrow morning. 😂
When you say “both” are you referring to the lowers as well? I haven’t gotten that far yet.
@GarageFab yep upper and lowers both the same. Both fit Mitsu or Nissan spindles. There's also some screw in style balljoints that fit. K772, K778, K727 are the most popular ones.
Much appreciated! The Max lowers are also bolt-on so I was just planning on using those but I’ll check out the Nissans and see which I like better. You are appreciated. 🙏
@GarageFab the Nissan has a press in lower. So you can use a mitsu lower in a Nissan. Been a decade since I had a shop building tube arms. Some of that's hard to Remember.
Oh! Ok.
Take your time, it would be easier on you. Love the content and the great way you explain things, even things like slippery teeth.
Oh, I wish I could. One day I’ll be able to take my time. I’ve learned just how sensitive the RUclips algorithm is to consistent uploads. I was a day “late” in this last upload and I’m already being punished.
The viewers are incredibly patient and understanding.
Alas! One day hopefully I can quit my day job and the schedule will be easy to maintain.
Go to the hardware store and buy a bottle of muriatic acid. Whenever you need to weld galvanized or zinc coated parts, just soak them in a small mixing cup of acid for a few minutes, then rinse them with water. That completely removes the coating, making them safe to weld.
Two of the washers should have been on the front side of the bushing when you welded in your tabs. Now your bushing is 1/2" off center from the factory location toward the rear. Great fab work though.
Correct! But in the end, the location of the ball joint is all that matters. The lower arms will be built from scratch taking this bushing movement into consideration. If I were reinstalling the factory arms I can see how this might be a problem. Thank you, my friend!
Marcus sounds like a “two birds with one stone” kind of guy! v/r wh
Haha! Yes indeed.
15:18 3M filters, part number 2097. These are perfect for welding fumes and fit perfectly under a hood.
Could you discuss proper IFS angles because if you are doing a chasey swap and or a chasey swap with a coil over it is important to know how to get the angles and motion right. Springs....... don't worry about that that is a whole separate issue but. the angles and motion are right in your wheel house and you can talk about that without having to do or buy anything. That would be some great content. I am so ignorant anything you share would be SUPER.
We’ll be starting on the front suspension shortly, so there will definitely be some IFS Suspension Basics stuff on the way!
Cadmium flash plating. Galvanized is a lot heavier "thicker" coating.
I’ve never heard of it! I’ll look into it. Thank you, my friend!
Dang, I've got an 87 mighty max and I have a fourth gen 4Runner too 😂😂 now I just need a garage and some fabrication skills
I’ll help as much as I can with the fabrication skills but you’re on your own with the garage. 😬
@@GarageFab I built a garage but then we moved before I could get set up for fabrication. I need to build another garage at the new house 😫
Ouch. What a kick in the face! 🤦🏻♂️
Why not just use the plasma cutter for the slot. Make a jig and save yourself like 3 steps and 4 different tools. I love your channel and have learned a lot. I take the CAD “card board aided design”template all the way to fitting with holes and everything, before transitioning to steel.
Interesting thought! I’ve got 4 more tabs to do so I might give that a shot. Thanks got watching my man!
You could use a Dial level instead of ballparking the bubble. I find it helps me out when the project is unlevel
Interesting! More info please! When you say dial, are you referring to a dial indicator that could be used for measuring runout? If so, what would you be connecting it to to check level?
I’ll shoot a video to you on your instagram Dm in the morning
@jensenfritz8079 Yes please!
Great videos. I really like the work and explaining you provide in your videos
Thank you, Kelly
Is the bushing sitting at an angle in the chassis? If it is, the adding all those washers to one side to make up the width difference probably shifted the centerline or the angle. Maybe its not enough to worry about, but I am curious. Nice trick with the router! I could have used that one a couple weeks ago!
I think I know what you’re saying about the center line. The only thing I’m concerned with this early is the point the bushing rotates around (the bolt) and that shouldn’t have changed, though the bushing is now somewhat offset from where it used to be. Thank you!
@@GarageFab awesome. You're aware of it, so I'm not worried. I also wanted to say that I posted my chassis table build if you are still interested in seeing it. Videos turned out a bit rough, but what the heck 🤷♂️
I am interested. I’ll be looking!
Another great video A A Ron!
Thank you, T H Omas!
That was brilliant!
How could I have those two tools in my garage for years and never have thought to put them together ? Carbide burr bit obviously goes in a router duh. Why didn't I ever think of that. It should actually work better in the router than anything because with the die grinder there's no plate to keep it steady and it just jumps all around and makes odd shapes and does bad things. I even thought, what would happen if I put a carbide router bit in the router and do metal with it but I don't think it would last long. But now I'm going to try it cuz I just want to know. I'm so mad at myself for never thinking of that but so happy that now I know, thanks dammit!
And nice job making those four parts identical !
I didn't pick that up till the end either but I've done stuff like that.😢😅
Believe it or not, a wood router bit works on metal too. Probably goes without saying that it doesn’t last as long. 🤔
It's funny that you said your garage isn't level...AND that you rarely use a level. I don't know if you've watched any Puddin's Fab Shop videos, but he has the same issue (maybe worse) and he uses a level to compensate by shimming the frame to level (or whatever he happens to be working on that needs to be level). Another example that there's always multiple ways to get there in there in the end! haha
I don’t know why I don’t do that! It would only take a few minutes! 😩
It's good to see that it's not just me that has brain farts sometimes! As I get older it seems a little more frequent. 😮😅😊
Dude. You should smell my garage. No one has more brain gas than me.
@@GarageFab the worst brain fart I ever had was on a 400 amp main electrical service! I flipped up the meter bypass arm and pulled the meter, I forgot that only kills/unloads the meter. I cut one of the 200 amp cables, major fireworks ensued, ruined my cable cutters and had to break out the garden hose! LOL.
Um… sounds like that could’ve been quite a bit worse! My only electrical close call was a fraction of that amperage I’m sure. I was replacing ballasts and capacitors on exterior apartment lighting on a ladder. All the lights were off, but the sun was setting and they’re operated by photocell. While grabbing a discharged capacitor, I saw the other lights turn on and I blacked out. Woke up leaning back on the ladder and managed to catch myself. Good times.
@@GarageFab sounds like you were pretty lucky! I got zapped by accidently hitting the Start/Run Ballast with the back of my hand in an A/C Condenser once. It zapped me so hard it drew up the muscles on the back of my neck! LOL.
When I weld gal I put a fan behind me at head/ shoulders height so as to blow the fumes away but not the argon
That’s quite brilliant. 👏 I’ll have to remember that. I’m in a small space so I still need to come up with some sort of ventilation, but also controlling the direction the fumes go would be an amazing addition. Thank you, Wes!
Oh man I'm sorry and I feel your pain, BUT even without knowing what went wrong, seeing that face at 16:17 I just burst laughing out loud LOL
We all been there. LOL
Oh and yeah, Thank you Marcus!
I’m thrilled my pain can bring you such joy. 😆 Thank you my man!
@@GarageFab Hahaha It's not that I felt ''joy'' but that close up expression was unexpected and... priceless LOL
But more importantly, it confirmed that I'm not alone feeling this kind of pain, and that felt good.
Keep it up my friend you're doing a great job . Very educational, (I learned a lot) and entertaining.
I think you need one of those washers on the other side of that bushing otherwise you're going to have a big gap on the front and not enough room for the washer in the back
The cam in the bolt is so large it completely covers the slot in the front. The tabs were spaced with the washers in mind. 👍
Аарон здравствуй, не по теме но спрошу "какая задняя подвеска устойчивей в поперечине 4link или с тягой панара, про 3 link и а образный рычаг речь не веду ? допустим в повседневной езде по сельской местности, то есть грунтовки . "Мой автомобиль на рессорах но не рамный, хочу поставить пружины, рессоры все лонжероны выломали. Что скажешь?
what type router did you use? i searched router and carbide on your channel and the video with the router did not come up-do you know the title of the video?
I totally forgot to put links in this video! Thank you! If I remember correctly, the specific router I have isn’t made anymore. Search for “trim router”. It’s a much smaller unit than a typical router. The carbide bits I have are Snap on, but I think you can get them anywhere. Lowe’s and Home Depot both.
@@GarageFab thank you
Hi. New to your channel. I dont know if anyone else mentioned this, or if you knew, Mopar has been using those same type of eccentrics since the sixties. Maybe a cheaper option ?
I certainly did not know, Stanley. I will be looking them up. The Toyota versions cost me over $200 for 4 complete bolts. I’d love to find a cheaper option for my next truck which will require 8 of them. 😩 Thank you. 🙏
i think ZJ jeep has a similar cam nuts on its front control arms
Pro tip-- you can't fail if you never start. That's the secret to my success.
🤯 I’ve been doing it all wrong!
@@GarageFab Yup, all that progress will get you nowhere.
Can you tell me the name of this cardboard that you use to copy geometry to cut steel to size. First of all I am your fan your videos all for me are a fantastic class, as I said I am a roboticist trying to ride a tricycle. Congratulations.
can you link that card stock paper u use to make templates??
Unfortunately I can’t! Sorry my friend. I purchase it at a local upholstery supply store. I need some more so the next time I go I’m going to ask him if he’ll tell me where he gets it. Then you’ll be able to get it on my website. Until then, poster board from Walmart or Michael’s works well!
oh thats s lead, upholstery shop l worked at 9 months years ago, and it's firm and thicker that amazon or ebay stock. Thanks
Isn't 2" different from the 1-7/8" for the cam? Or do you need a little clearance? Oops! Spoke too soon.
Haha!! 🙌
Great video!
Thank you, my friend!
😊 who do you get your bushing from thks
Thorbros.com!
Hey I'm doing a 55 Ford F100 twin turbo LS Ford 9-inch with ladder bars and a frame box kit I was curious if you would like to help with this I'm doing all the Fab myself in my garage
Sounds like an awesome project! I’d be happy to give you guidance where I can, but unfortunately I don’t have time for extra projects lately.!
Marking faces along the way can save face.
That sounds like good advice hiding in there but I don’t understand!
@@GarageFab I noticed you were about to weld square stock on the wrong faces of 2 of the gussets. Marking the outside faces of the gussets as a habit before knocking off the tacks and heading to the bench to make the work easier would have really made the work easier by preventing face errors. A couple of vertical lines with a sharpie can go a long ways helping your memory especially in situations when you're working upside down and backwards before moving to the bench. It's so easy to miss exactly what you missed I was waiting to see how you marked the outside.
A first time for everything can also be your last for that one.
Edit: "to save face" generally is linked to the dignity and prestige that a person has in terms of their social cultural relationships common to many cultures around the world.
Last description to allow saving face for anyone unfamiliar.
Sense made! Such simple yet profound advice. I’ll try and remember that when working with multiple parts like this. I often put an UP arrow as well as a RF or LF on them but never considered marking the face. 😩
@@GarageFab You had already discovered the problem that before was only potential.
Thank you for your reply.
You should get your self a welding fume extractor. Even fumes from ordinary welding are no good for your lungs.
Truth! I’d like to look into making one just for the sake of additional content. Sooner better than later on this one I guess.
Why dont u put a spacer on the side of vehicle ? Surely it will be easier?
You didn't clean the black coating off the brackets before Welding the rods on.
I put a fan at my back to bring in fresh air when Welding stinky material.
Not to much or you will blow out your shield gas.
I often don’t remove mill scale unless it’s a really important weld. It doesn’t seem to affect my welds. The galvanized coating sure does though!
Someone recently mentioned a fan behind the head just to coax the fumes away. Brilliant. I haven’t tried that one just yet.
Thank you marcus!!!
I appreciate your mistakes brother!, it means you are human. No worries, it's looking real good..
Haha! If mistakes make a person human, I’m the humanest off so the humans. Thank you, David. 🙏
And there was me thinking I was the only one making these mistakes the whole time.
Mistakes? I’ve never made a mistake in my life! It’s definitely just you.
@@GarageFab Ah right, and how are we feeling this morning? has the doctor beento see you! and have you taken your medicine!
😆
🤣🤣.
Another awesome video full of great useful tips, thanks again Aaron …and Marcus 👍👍
My pleasure. Thank you, my friend!
Lol. I'm glad I'm not the only person that screws up something relatively fairly easy. Honesty is the key to great builds.
lol! I’m a perfectionist. Not perfect.
Just something I noticed (because I have done it in the past). You put both washers on the same side (rear) for spacing the plates apart for the correct bushing which means that your bushing will be pushed toward the rear the thickness of the washer on final assembly. If you plan on doing your own front arms not a big deal. If you were keeping the originals, it might come into play. Love the videos and the hard work that you put in. Keep it up sir.
Hood eye, Zach! I am in fact building arms from scratch using only the front most bushing edge as a locator. The factory arm will be placed in a jig with this in mind, and once the jig is set, I’ll piece together the new arm. I imagine that’ll make more sense in the video. 🤦🏻♂️
Even my lady cat likes your videos because you are real like me. I think she means you make mistakes like I do.😂 Dammit !
Haha! Nobody likes perfect.
Making your own lower control arm adjusters with a plasma cutter may seem a little eccentric.
I see what you did there
lol!
Cool. I almost chucked a bur in my router to try to cut my transmission adapter. It being aluminum held me up. LOL. Vinegar should remove galvanized coating, but it would need to soak overnight I expect. I've never tried. But picked up that tid bit somewhere.
Imma have to try that!
Was just re watching this one, and noticed that you put the 1/4 washers on one end instead of one on each end to keep the bushing centered. While the width would be right, wouldn't that shift the bushing a 1/4 off front to rear...which would possible effect caster if you don't compensate when you make new control arms? And if you used the existing arms, it seems like it would be an issue. Or am I overthinking it?
That was a whole lot of correctness. I’m currently in the process of building and filming the lower control arms and I’ve already talked about how confusing it’s going to be. Everything will be based off of the front edge of the factory control arm bushings. If you watch the video a third time 😅 (edited because I realized I meant the crossmember video) you’ll see that the first thing I do is bolt the mockup bushings to the front edge of the crossmember. In essence the only thing that will remain factory is the relationship between the position of the ball joint to the position of the front of the bushing.
You are correct though; Moving the control arms forward or back would in fact change caster. As long as I don’t screw things up, (probable) caster and camber will remain the same but the bushing widths will change and the additional bushing on the triangulated control arm will be in a new location.
Hang in there. I’ll try my best to make it make sense.
Arron cool video... Sometimes you need to just stop and breathe and or take a break from what you're doing to be able to focus back on it. Keep Moving Forward brother! Thank you Marcus
So true! Fascinating how a short break could actually speed things up. 🤔 Thank you, Dina!
Great stuff but you could have saved lots of time, money and effort by getting your local CNC plasma guy to cut the plates, with slots and the cammed washers for the bolts. Wouldn’t make for good content though
Great point! I think it would make great content. I might do that on my next project. 🙌
Mr. Man Candy, could you comment on the factory angles of the pivot axis of the lower control arms as well as the axis of the upper control arms? I have a 3D model of my Chevy 2500 frame and the brackets for the lower control arm are not perfectly parallel to the frame in the computer. This cant be right can it?? It is hard to measure the actual frame to confirm what's factory. AND the angles of the upper control arm axis are certainly not parallel to the frame which is obviously "factory". What is the desired drop angle of the lower control arm from horizontal as a general rule? I am doing my own IFS and need to know the desired "general rules" for doing a good job? I could do a SAS but I have a IFS axle. I would like to use the IFS axle for a chasey swap but I don't have a good design rules to guide me in proper thinking. I think you are "THE MAN" who can address these questions in your "particular Idiom" to quote The Holy Grail.
First lemme make sure that I’m understanding what angle it is that you’re talking about; The front control arms are almost always angled back on production vehicles, almost as if the car hit a curb and twisted the control arm mounts backwards, resembling the wings of a passenger plane. There is also often a forward pitch to the control arms, meaning that the front bushing of an A-arm is lower than the rear.
Unfortunately this is something of which I don’t have a strong understanding at the moment. I know, (or I think I know) that the pitch of the control arms increases and decreases anti-dive, and I have read that the yaw angle of the control arms changes how harsh bumps feel. Angling the arms backwards allows for a more natural movement over a bump as the arm will not only move upward but backward slightly as well.
This is a topic I’m going to have to research a lot more before getting into the Suspension Basics videos for IFS. 😬
One more comment, the bushing thing, WOW. Great! I think some of the bushing manufacturers employees don't know about rubber versus poly installation and sleeve compression.
Believe it or not, a lot of “experienced” technicians don’t know either. 🤷♂️
Brother, I could feel your pain from here in Australia. So glad your the man who keeps telling us to keep moving forward. Look forward to your next video.
Thank you, Nick. 🙏 Thrilled to be that guy! Cheers!
Man I feel for you- all that trouble and then to find the other stops on the wrong side.
Some days things turn to pooh, they are the days you just have to stop, and regather for tomorrow.
Ask me how I know LOL.
Truth! Just a long lunch break is sometimes enough to reset and clear one’s head, but stopping and breathing is key.
Love your videos, man, even when things don’t go according to plan. I makes me feel like I’m not the only one that has that happen to. Great tip about the router too.!!
Yes! Real life is better than fiction. No reason to get discouraged by it. Take a deep breath and keep moving forward.
Thank you, Trevor!
Right on, I just found my solution for building my adjustable watts link arms
Thanks for the video brother
Ooo! I’d like to see that!
Man, you make things look so easy even with the mess ups. lol I hope you don't mind me stealing your techniques so I can start working on my Datsun that's been sitting for ten years.
That’s the whole point of the channel Will!! Steal away! And lemme know how things went for you. Best of luck my man.
The 93 & up two wheel drive Ford Ranger used the adjuster cams also, they might be less expensive than the Toyota.
Thank you for that Sean! I will look. The next truck will need 8 of them so saving money would be grand!
Funny how rushing often makes things go slower. That carbide bit in a router is a genius idea to keep the bit perfectly perpendicular.
Slow is smooth, smooth is fast!
Toyota cam bolts are the best. I bought a tundra that had the cheaper aftermarket cam bolts and we had to tack wield them to keep alignment. Needless to say I tracked down some factory ones before I got another alignment.
Good to know!
Thank you for another great video. You work out of your garage and just make the best of it. You are very, very talented and I learn a lot from you. What line of work do you do?
Thank you my friend! The goal is to show people they can make amazing things happen in their garage too.
I’m a Toyota/Lexus specialist and have been for 18 years.
I respect how you call yourself out on your mistakes. Thats real as hell. I grew up in the Nevada/Arizona area and frequented events like Endless Summer and etc. Been to quite a few shows in Vegas also. Have a good day. Awesome work man.
Nice! Where you at now? Thank you my friend. 🙏
@GarageFab You're very welcome man...my family has been in Nebraska Panhandle now for a decade. Trying to bring some West vibe and style here. So far so good.
Love your content and learn alot. Appreciate what you do. And you inspire me and I'm sure many others keep up the good work.
Excellent! Your words mean a great deal to me. Thank you my friend. 🙏
Very nice work once again learn some good thing's, we all make mistakes that's how we become better.
Great video ,thanks for sharing
Truth! Hard to learn from perfection. Thank you, my friend!
Is there no gain to wheel alignment and squaring off of to the vehicle 3 dimensionally with no up and down ajustment ???
I don’t think so. Not a significant amount anyway!
If I knew that fabrication was going to be so arts and craftsy, I would have paid more attention in kindergarten .
Hahaha. It’s never too late to go back!
Hopefully that’s not true.
Dude. Awesome again. I enjoy the instruction and the real world mistakes that we all make.
What mistakes?! That was all on purpose.
Thank you, Sean! 🙏
Thank you for being real. I truly enjoy your teaching and sense of humor.
Thank you, Victor! I appreciate you back.
Love your content, and your f"x"ups!
Keep up keeping it real!
Thank you my friend! 🙏
Hello Aaron, I'm back with a question. The rear suspension is 4 links, in which the lower levers are attached to the bridge using simple rubber-metal saylet blocks, and the rear trailing arms are attached to the frame like on a Mitsubishi Pajero, we call them "sticks", I know that such a connection is used where a pushing effect is needed, and w upper arms of the same design but only installed on the turn. I hope I made my thoughts clear.

I think I’m clear. And that sounds good so far. What’s the question?
@@GarageFab я хочу построить подвеску на таких рычагах, будет ли она нормально работать? Мне такая конструкция рычагов не встречалась и по этому куча сомнений, может быть я слишком сильно паникую 🙄, кстати ход заднего моста планируется в 27 см так как мне больше и не нужно. Музыка в твоих роликах классная 👌
I think you’re on the right track. Everything should be just fine. If you ever get around to drawing it up, send it my way @GarageFab702@gmail.com and I’d be happy to take a look.
When we overlook or make mistakes…
‘Keep Moving Forward’
Yes! 🙌
Great content... I'm sure most fabbers would have loads of extra sets of brackets for one side of what they are doing. Usually made just late enough for you to realise that you don't have quite enough stock to make an other set, and the steel stock holder closed 5 mins ago. ( and it's usually a long weekend )
Haha! That sounds like it’s spoken from experience. It couldn’t be more true.
Thank you, Mate! You are appreciated. 🙏
@@GarageFab Repeat offender in fact. not only can I do it in steel I can also do it with carbon fibre, paint, dry wall, and lumber, as well as grocery items....
Glad to see I’m not alone… my Christmas lights are still up as well.
Haha! It’s getting to the point that they may stay up for this coming Christmas. 🤔
I’ve been looking for an excuse to get a trim router like that.
Yes! Well worth it.
We're lucky in new Zealand just pop down to pik a part ..grab the bolts .sabresaw the washer bit off the sub frame .there's an easy pattern and when ur done just weld the original adjuster caps plate on ..that will save a lot of fabrication time and look pro as..that's a MEAN tip on the router I've got a new Makita router and carbide bits out the wazzooo .....for galvanized steel just grab a fan .put it about 500mm away from your work peice pointed away ..that will pull your fumes away from your work peice
All good advice! I did make a trip to the junkyard but this year isn’t the year for 4 Runners to die I guess. 😆
@@GarageFab pretty common peice across the board on brands no doubt ppl will easily substitute..
You do all the dumb things I do on the regular, I love it.
Haha! Reality TV
hello, apparently my question was left unanswered or it is too stupid.
Haha! Not likely. Just been overwhelmed with comments lately. What Was your question?
@@GarageFab two comments earlier, in Russian.